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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  institut  canadien  de  microreproductions  historiques 

1980 


Technical  Notes  /  Notes  techniques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Physical 
features  of  this  copy  which  may  alter  any  of  the 
images  in  the  reproduction  are  checked  below. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemploire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Ce>-tains 
ddfauts  susceptibles  de  nuire  d  la  quality  de  la 
reproduction  sont  notds  ci-dessous. 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couvertures  de  couleur 


0 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 


D 

D 

n 


Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 


Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d^colordes,  tachetdes  ou  piqu^es 


Tight  binding  (may  cause  shadows  or 
distortion  along  interior  margin)/ 
Reliure  serr§  (peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou 
de  la  distortion  le  long  de  la  marge 
intdrieure) 


D 
D 

D 


Coloured  plates/ 
Planches  en  couleur 


Show  through/ 
Transparence 


Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 


0 


Additional  comments/ 
Commentaires  suppl6mentaires 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata  slips, 
tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to  ensure  the 
best  possible  image. 


Bibliographic  Notes  /  Notes  bibliographiques 


D 
D 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
f\e\\6  avec  d'autres  documents 


0 


Pagination  incorrect/ 
Erreurs  de  pagination 


Pages  missing/ 

Des  pages  manquent 


D 
D 


Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


Plates  missing/ 

Des  planches  manquent 


D 


Maps  missing/ 

Des  cartes  gdographiques  manquent 


V^ 


Additional  comments/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires 


Pagination  as   follows:      11.,    i,    ii,    11.,    iii-xii, 
13-280,    280,     [281],    281-[285],    280. 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche  shall 
contain  the  symbol  —»- (meaning  CONTINUED"), 
or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"),  whichever 
applies. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  dt6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  I'exemplaire  filmd,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contiat  de 
filmage. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaltra  sur  la  der- 
nidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le  cas: 
le  symbole  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le  symbole 
V  signifie  "FIN". 


The  original  copy  was  borrowed  from,  and 
filmed  with,  the  kind  consent  of  the  following 
institution: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


L'exemplaire  film^  fut  reproduit  grSce  d  la 
gdn6rositd  de  I'dtablissement  prdteur 
suivant  : 

Bibliothdque  nationale  du  Canada 


IVIaps  or  plates  too  large  to  be  entirely  included 
in  one  exposure  are  filmed  beginning  in  the 
upper  Inft  hand  corner,  left  to  right  and  top  to 
bottom,  as  many  frames  as  required.  The 
following  diagrams  illustrate  the  method: 


Les  cartes  ou  les  planches  trop  grandes  pour  dtre 
reproduites  en  un  seul  clich6  sont  film^es  d 
partir  de  Tangle  sup^rieure  gauche,  de  gauche  ^ 
droite  et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n^cessaire.  Le  diagramme  suivant 
illustre  la  m^thode  : 


'S, 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

ft        Vl     "I      I 


Wbkck' -  Cliff  an'd  C'A.-CADi:  -  Fictarel  Recks. 


'h,.'2 


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?  .  J.LROAD  AND  STEAMBOAT  ROUTES.      ' 

WTH  MAP  ,9ND  E';'BE!.  !.l5HWe.NTS, 
COMPir.KD  AND  Pi' •  '  iSHFD  PV 

J.  DISTUJJ/NKLL. 

Ai:ruoK  oFxrii-.     rK>tv*\^T;  -K  C'i  nL\T",'  iTv:. 


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Sailing  on  the  GmatLakes 


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AND 


RIVEES  OF  AMERICA; 

EMBRxVClNG  A  DESCRIPTION  OF 

LAKES  ERIE,  HURON,  MICHIGAN  &  SUPERIOR, 


AND 


RIVERS  ST.  MARY,  ST.  CLAIR,  DETROIT,  NIAGARA  &  ST.  LAWRENCE; 

ALSO,  THE 

COMMERCE  OF  THE  LAKES,  &c. 

TOGETHER  AVITH  NOTICES  OF  THE 

RIVERS  MISSISSIPPI,  MISSOURI  AND  RED  RIVER  OF  THE  NORTH; 
CITIES,  VILLAGES  AND  OBJECTS  OF  INTEREST. 

FORMING  ALTOGETHER  A 

COMPLETE    GULDE 
(To  the  ^mt  l^JtUc.^,  nt\mx  piiSiStetirpi,  "^tirircv  Piosiauvi,  $ic, 

ALSO, 

RAILROAD  AND  STEAMBOAT  ROUTES. 


WITH  MAP  AND  EMBELLISHMENTS. 
COMPILED  AND  PUBLISHED  BY 

J.  DISTURNELL, 

AuTiiOK  OF  THE  "  Influksce  OF  Climatp:,"  etc. 

PHILADELPHIA: 
1874. 


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s, 


1.  Frontispiece —Cascade  Fall  and  Wreck-Cliff— Pictured  Kocks, 

2.  Vignette.  —  The  Castle  Miner's  River,  rictured  Rocks 

3.  Cedar  Rapids.  —  St.  Lawrence  River  . 

4.  Brock's  Monument.  —  Qneenston  Ileiglits  . 

5.  Niagara  Falls  and  Rapids .... 

6.  Fort  Niagara.  —  Mouth  of  Niagara  River . 

7.  Perry's  Monument. —  Cleveland,  Ohio. 

8.  Arched  Rock.  —  Mackinac  .... 

9.  Indian  Wigwam,  Canoes,  etc.  —  Saut  Ste.  Marie 

10.  Great  Falls.  —  Pigeon  River 

11.  Rapids  op  Saut  Ste.  Marie.  —  From  American 

12.  Speckled  Trout.  —  From  Nepigon  River    . 

13.  Grand  PoRTAiL.  —  Pictured  Rocks 

14.  Monument  Rock.  —  Lake  Superior 

15.  Maiden's  Rock.  —  Lake  Pepin 

16.  Scenery  above  Winona.  —  Mississipjji  Rivtr 

17.  Falls  of  St.  Anthony         .... 

18.  Falls  of  Min-ne-iia-iia      .... 

19.  Pulling  a  Canoe  up  the  Rapids.  —  Rainy  Lake  River 

20.  Township  Map  of  the  Lake  Superior  Region. 


Side, 


PAGF. 
1 

13 
73 

83 
87 
93 
106 
140 
153 
178 
180 
191 
197 
203 


.  232 
.  233 
.  250 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1874,  by 
JOHN  DISTURNELL, 
in  tlu  OfDce  of  tlie  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


TO  MY  PATRONS, 


During  the  Summer  of  1843,  I  visited  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence,  proceeding  to 
Tadousac,  and  ascended  the  far-famed  Sagucnay  River  to  Chicoutimi, — tlie'i  tliis 
wild  and  interesting  region  of  country  was  almost  unknown  to  the  American  trav- 
elling public,  although  since  it  has  become  a  most  fashionable  Summer  Resort. 

In  1844  the  "Picturesque  Tourist"  appeared,  being  a  Guide  Ihrouijh  tlic  Slate 
(if  Xfu-  York  and  Canada.  This  work  was  favorably  received,  and  two  or  three 
editiou.s  were  issued. 

In  1846  the  Rainway  and  Steamship  Guide  was  issued,  as  a  ([uartcrly  jjublica- 
tion,  being  tlu'  (iist  work  of  its  kind  in  the  United  States,  and  kept  up  until  1858, 
when  it  WHS  discontinued  owing  to  being  superseded  by  monthly  publications, 
wliicli  proved  a  great  success, — filling  a  want  re(iuired  by  the  Travelling  I'nbiic. 

In  the  month  of  September,  1854,  I  visited  Mackinac  and  the  Saut  Ste.  Marie, 
and  remained  until  the  first  of  October.  Then  a  horse-railway  conveyed  passen- 
gers and  freight  from  tiie  Lower  to  the  Upper  Landing,  a  distance  of  one  mile: 
the  travel  and  trade  being  comparatively  small,  althougli  the  construction  of  the 
Ship  Canal  was  in  progress,  being  finished  in  185."). 

Tn  1856  I  again  visited  Lake  Superior  and  proceeded  to  Bayfield,  stopping  al 
the  intermediate  ports,  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  information  for  a  new  work 
which a|)peared  iu  1857,  entitled  "Trip  through  the  Lakes  and  River  St.  Law- 
rence." This  work  was  also  favorably  received,  having  since  passed  througii 
four  editions. 

In  1807  the  "  Influksce  of  Climate  in  North  and  South  America"  was  issued, 
containing  336  pages,  octavo  size.  A  nciv  Edition  is  noiv  being  prepared  for  publi- 
calion,  to  contain  Health  Statistics  relating  to  the  several  States,  Territories  and  principal 
Cities  of  the  Union,  Agricultural  Statistics,  cj'f. 

The  present  Work,  entitled,  "  Sailing  on  the  Great  Lakes  and  Rivers  ok 
America,"  with  Map  and  Embellishments,  is  compiled  with  much  care,  hoping 
it  may  meet  with  a  hearty  approval.  The  aim  ef  tlie  Compiler  lias  been  to  faith- 
fully describe  the  objects  of  interest  and  wonders  on  the  Inland  Seas  and  tin- 
Great  Rivers  flowing  into  the  Ocean  by  widely  different  cliannels. 


T.  DISTURNELL. 


Philadelphia,  June,  1874. 


J 


TO  THE  AMERICAN  PUBLIC. 


The  Great,  or  ''NEW  NORTH-WEST,"  embracing  the  Region  of 
the  Great  Lakes  of  America,  the  Upi)er  Mimissippi  Valley,  the  Valley  of  the  lied 
River  of  the  North,  and  the  Upper  Missouri  Valley  —  including  in  part  the 
Northern  portion  of  the  United  IStates  and  a  part  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada, 
are  included  in  the  above  designated  territory,  lying,  for  the  most  part,  in  the 
middle  of  the  Continent,  between  the  A'yth  and  iJOth  degrees  of  North  latitude. 

Within  this  vast  region  are  the  sources  of  foUT  of  the  greatest  Rivers  of 
America,  —  the  Missouri  River  rising  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  Mississippi 
River  rising  in  Northern  Minnesota,  both  flowing  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  —  the 
Red  River  of  the  North  rising  in  Dakota  and  Minnesota,  together  with  the 
iSaskatch Clean,  flowing  into  Lake  Winnipeg  and  Hudson  Bay,  and  the  viain 
sources  of  the  Great  Lakes  and  the  iSt.  Lawrence  River,  Jlowing  into  the  Gulf  of 
St.  Lawrence,  — forming  altogether  about  eighteen  thousand  miles  of  Inland 
Navigation. 

Tliis  hitherto  neglected  portion  of  the  Continent  is  now  attracting  the  attention 
of  the  naturalist  and  the  geographer,  owing,  in  the  main  part,  to  its  agricultural 
and  mineral  products.  Already  railroad  routes  have  been  surveyed  and  explora- 
tions made  in  various  directions,  while  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad, 
destined  soon  to  form  another  Trans -Coiitinental  line  of  travel,  has  been  com' 
pleted  for  a  distance  of  four  hundred  and  ffty  miles,  west  of  Lake  Superior, 
connecting  the  heads  of  all  the  above  mighty  bodies  of  xvater,floiving  South,  North 
and  East  into  the  Ocean,  at  ividely  different  points  of  the  compass.  By  the  above 
railroad  route,  following  up  the  Missouri  River,  the  Gold  Fields  of  Montana 
can  be  reached,  as  well  as  the  famous  National  Park  situated  on  the  head- 
waters of  the  Yellov'doyie  River. 

Lewis  and  Clark,  two  eminent  explorers,  early  in  the  beginning  of  the 
present  century, passed  over  a  portion  of  this  wilderness,  inhabited  only  by  roving 
tribes  of  wild  Indians,  and  faithfully  described  its  wonderful  scenery  and  adapta- 
tion for  the  residence  of  civilized  man.   Employees  of  the  American  Fur  Company, 


111 


I 


ly 


TO  THE   AMERICAN  PUBLIC. 


and  others,  followed  in  after  years  ;  but  the  far-seeing  and  energetic  AsA  WniT- 
NEY,  some  thirty  years  since,  was  the  first  to  project  a  line  of  railroad  to  extend 
from  the  shores  of  Lake  Michigan  to  the  shores  of  Vuget  iSound,  on  the  J'acifio 
coait. 

Aft cr  fruitless  efforts,  running  through  several  years,  his  plans  were  abandoned, 
although  the  importance  of  the  subject  was  brought  to  the  attention  of  the  United 
States  Oovernment  and  State  Legislatures  ;  also,  advocated  before  the  American 
Geographical  Society  as  early  as  the  year  1851.  After  a  lapse  of  tioenty  years 
this  great  Nationahvork  tvas  commnuced  and  soon  completed  across  Minnesota  and 
Dakota  Territory  to  the  Missouri  River. 

It  is  this  extended  field,  made  easy  of  access  by  means  of  the  Ship  Canal  at  the 
Saut  Stc.  Marie,  and  liallroads  finished  to  the  southern  borders  of  Lake  Superior, 
and  westward  to  the  Upper  Missouri  River,  that  is  described  in  the  j^resent  work, 
entitled  "SAILING  ON  THE  GREAT  LAKES." 

While  thousands  of  American  tourists  are  annually  fiocking  to  Europe  and  the 
far  ends  of  the  earth,  our  own  country  from  Maine  to  Florida,  and  from  the 
Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  including  California  and  Oregon,  has  been  strangely 
neglected. 

In  all  the  above  Regions  alluded  to,  in  the  Korth-ivest,  health  prevails,  —  the 
climate  possessing  pro])erties  that  invigorate  the  whole  human  J'ramc  —  giving 
vitality  and  strength  to  MAN  that  enables  him  to  endure  fatigue  and  labor  to  a 
wofiderful  extent.  Thousands  are  noiv  living  in  the  Upper  Peninsula  of  Michigan, 
Northern  Wisconsin  and  Minnesota  that  ivould  have  long  since  been  in  their  graves 
were  it  not  for  t/ie  recuperative  climatic  influence  that  reigns  in  the  region 
bordering  on  the  Great  Lakes  and  Rivers  of  North  America,  lying  for  the  most 
part  in  a  high  latitude,  being  free  from  malaria  and  favored  with  jmre  air  and 
water. 

The  Cities,  Villages  and  Objects  of  Interest  on  the  Shores  of  Lakes  Erie, 
Huron,  Michigan  and  Superior  are,  also,  faithfully  described  —  including  the 
far-famed  Copper,  Iro7i  and  Silver  Region.  J,  D. 


^i 


Philadelphia,  May,  1874. 


CONTENTS. 


Island  Skas  — Extf.nt  axd  Commkrck  of 

I'Koi'osKu  Canal  and  Kivicr  iMrunvKMKNTS 

TaIJLE,  SUOWINO  COJU'ABATIVK  ELEVATIONS— AUEA,  DeI'TII,  ETC.,  OF  THE  GllEAT  LaKICS  . 

I 'ART  I. 


TAOK 
U-IO 

11 

12 


PAGE 

NATrnAL  HF,Ai-ni:s  and  Oii.tkcts  of  In- 
TEiUcsT  —  Iiiliiiiil  Sens  —  Falls  of  Niiij^- 
ura  and  Rapids  of  tho  St.  Lawrence  — 
Valley  of  tilt"  Mississippi  —  ]>o  Soto  — 
Father  Marcnu'ttu  —  Natural  Tor  races— 
ricasuro  Travel  —  A  Word  to  the  Wiso 

—  Sia.EC'TED  PoETUY  — Iiivcr  St.  Law- 
rence—  Sail  Uock— Lake  Superior  — 
Mississippi  River 13-24 

PART  II. 

Eaiily  French  Di.scovekies ~  Take  Pos- 
session of  the  Country  —  French  Ac- 
count of  the  Ancient  Mines  —  Father 
Marquette,  hii.  Discoveries  and  Death  — 
Jolliet — Discovery  and  Settlement  of 
Mackinac  —  English  Account  of  Lake 
Superior  —  Niat;ara  Frontier  —  La  Salic 

—  Ancient  Relics  —  Historical  Events...  25-39 

PART  III. 

Early  Navkjation,  etc.  —  Steamboat 
Travelling — Navigation  of  Lake  Supe- 
rior—  Names  of  Steumer.s  —  Coal  ai.  i 
Iron  Wealth  —  Commerce  of  the  Lakes 
— Flow  of  Water  in  the  Rivers  —  List  of 
Steamers  Sailing  on  Lake  Sui)erior  — 
Sailing  on  the  Lakes —  Duluth,  Temper- 
ature of. 40-50 

PART  IV. 

MiNF.RAL  Region  of  Lake  Superior  — 
Iron,  Copper  and  Silver— First  Dis- 
covery of  Iron  — .Taokson  Mountain- 
Classitication  of  Iron  Ores  —  Michigam- 
nie  Iron  District— Penoka  Iron  Range 

—  Extent  of  the  Iron  Mines  —  Future 
of  the  Iron  Centre —  Iron  Mining  Com- 
panies —  Iron  Product  —  Furnaces  — 
Value  of  Iron  Produced  —  Shipmcut  of 


51-0(5 


Iron  Ore- Copper  Product  and  Names 
of  Cop])er  Mines  — Silver  Mining  Com- 
panies—  Silver  Mining  on  Lak(!  Su- 
perior—North Shore  —  (ieological  For- 
mation—Thunder Ray -Silver  Islet  — 
Silver  Mining  Companies  on  the  North 
Shore 

PART  V. 


Railroad  and  Stkamroat  Route  from 

New  York  to  the  Kcul  of  Lake  SiijieriDi        07 
Grand  K.vcursioii  —  HuH'alo  to  Duluth,  etc.        08 
St.  Lawren(te  River    and  Lake  Naviga- 
tion        G'J 

Rufl'alo  and  Niagara  Falls  to  Montreal  and 
(iuehec,  passing  through  Lake  Ontario 
and  down  the  St.  Lawrence  River 70-72 

MA(iNITUDE  OFTIIE   LaKES   OK  "INLAND 

Seas  "  — Lake  Superior 73 

Lake  Michigan — Ureen  Ray — Lake  Huron 

— Georgian  Ray —  Lake  St.  Clair — Lake 

Erie 74 

Lake  Ontario  —  Trihutaries  of  Lakes "i'} 

Lake  and  River  Navigation 7ii 

Altitudes— Toj)ography,  etc 77 

Upper  Lakes — The  White  Fish 7S 

Fish  of  the  Upper  Lakes 7!) 

International  Bridge  — (Jrain    Trade    of 

Rutfalo 80 

Railroad  and   Steamhoat   Routes  — 

Rutfalo  to  Niagara  Falls  — Waterloo — 

Navy  Island 81 

Chippewa  —Niagara  I'alls  —  Drummonds- 

ville  — Rattle  of  Lundy's  Lane 82 

Clifton— (Jueenston — Brock's   Monument 

—  Village  of  Niagara 83 

Niagara  River— Its  Rapids,  Islands,  etc.  84 
Grand  Island  —  Tonawanda  —  Schlosser's 

Landing  —  The  Rajiids  —  Goat  Island...  85 
Goat  Island  Bridge  —  Bath  Island,  etc 85 

V 


yi 


CONTENTS. 


'!• 


rxuK 
NiAOAKA  —  Ilorsc-Shoc  or  Canadian  Fall 

—  American  Fall 87 

Catauact  of  Niaoara  — f'liinate,  etc 88 

Suspension      IJridgo  —  'Whirlpool  —  Vil- 
lage of  Niagara  Fulls,  etc X9-91 

Great  Western  Ilaihvay  of  Canada 112 

To  Invalids  and  Seekers  of  Pleasure? 91! 

Jfcdical  Influence  of  Climate 91 

Advice  to  Pleasure  Travellers 95-9(> 

Approaches  to  Lake  Superior 97 

Hints  to  Pleasure  Travellers 9S 

Table  of  Distances  from  Buffalo  to  Dululh  99 
Grand  Pleasure  Excursion  —  FroniBufl'alo 

and  Detroit  to  Duluth,  St.  Paul,  etc 100 

PART  VI. 

TripThrougiitiikLakks  — City  of  Buf- 
falo  ini-10'2 

Steamhoat  Iloute  from  Bullalo,  Detroit, 

etc.  —  Dunkirk,  etc lOo 

City  of  Eric 101 

Ashtabula  — Paiuesvillo— Cleveland 105-lOC 

Sandusky  —  Huron,  cte 107 

Kelley's  Island  and  Bass  Islands 107-108 

Naval  Battle  on  Lake  Erie 109 

Put-in-Bay— Toledo 110 

Co'.iparativc  (irowth  of  Lake  Cities Ill 

Climat(jloKy  of  Ohio  —  City  of  Monroe  — 

Fort  Wayne 112 

Detroit  Kivor — Amherstburgh  — Browns- 

town] — Windsor,  Can il3 

City  of  Detroit 114-115 

He  la  Pechc  — Table  of  Distances lUi 

Canal  through  St.  Clair  Flats  —  Detroit  to 
jSlackinac  and  Saut  Ste.  Marie — Lake 

St.  Clair 117 

Ashley— Algonac— Newport— St.  Clair,  etc  118 
Southerland  —  Port  Huron  —  Fort  G  ratiot 

—  Sarnia,  etc 119 

EouTK  rRf)M  Sarnia  to  Gouerich,  etc. 

—  Kincardine  —  Saugeen 120 

EouTE  FROM  Port  Huron  to  Saginaw 

City  — East  Sagiuaw,  etc 121 

Lakk  Huron  —  Saginaw     Bay,     Tawas, 

Thunder  Bay  Islands 122 

Lower  Peninsula  of  Michigan  — Al- 
pena, Duncan,  Cheyboygan,  etc 123 

Old  Mackinac  — Grand  Traverse  City  — 

Manistee— Grand  Haven 124 


PAGE 

Steamboat  Route  from  Detroit  to 
Mackinac,  Green  Bay,  etc 125 

Now  Bulfalo  —  St.  Joseph  —  Amsterdam 
— Holland — Steamers  on  Lake  Michigan      126 

PART  VII. 

City  op  Chicago,  Description  of. 127-128 

Bailroads  Diverging  from  Chicago 129 

^lonthly  Temperatures  —  Distances  from 
Chicago  to  Mackinac  and  Duluth,  Minn.      130 

Steamers  Running  on  Lake  Michigan 131 

Route  from  Chicago  to  JIackinac  and 

Saut  Ste.  Marie 131 

Waukecgan — Kenosha — Racine — Milwau- 
kee       132 

tiranaries  of  liiwa,  Minnesota,  and  AVis- 

consin  —  Railroads,  etc 133 

Sheboygan  —  Manifouwoc  —  Kewaunee 

—  Ahneepee,  etc 134 

Manitou,    Fox,    and    Beaver    Islands  — 

Straits  of  Mackinac,  etc 135 

Mackinac  — Town  and  Fortress 1.3G 

Fort  Mackinac  —  Cheyboygan 137-138 

Lover's    Leap  —  Altitudes    of    Various 

Points 139 

Arched  Rock  — Sugar  Loaf,  etc 140 

Island  of  Mackinac 141 

Round  Island  —  St.  Martin's  Bay  —  Point 

de  Tour—  St.  Joseph's  Island,  etc 142 

Nebish  and  Sugar  Islands  —  Lake  George 

—  Church's  Landing,  etc 113 

St.  Mary's  River,  Description  of 144 

A  New  Route  through  St.  Mary's  River 

—  Opening  of  the  Straits  of  Mackinac..  145 
Business  on  the  St.  Mary's  Ship  Canal  — 

Principal  Hotels 14G 

Table  of  Distances  —  Toronto  to  Colling- 

wood  —  Saut  Ste.  'Marie,  etc 147 

CoLLiNGWOOD  Route  —  Toronto  —  Barrio 

—  Collingwood  —  Owen  Sound 148 

Gi;oRGiAN   Bay  —  Collingwood   to   Saut 

Ste.  Marie 149 

Owen's  Sound  —  Lonely  Island  —  She-ba- 

wa-nah-ning.  North  Channel,  etc 150 

Man-i-tou-wah-ning  —  LittP     Current  — 

St.  Joseph's  Island  —  Bruce  Mine 151 

Wellington  Mine — The  Narrows  —  Sugar 

Island 152 


CONTENTS 


vn 


PART  VIII. 

PAOK 

Lakk  SiTERioR  ( 'lUiDE  —  Saut  Sto.  Mario      153 

Trout  Fishing  Itoorts 1M 

Fort  Braily  —  St.  Mary's  i^liii)  Canal 153 

Opening  and  Closing  of  the  Ship  Canal  — 

Statement  of  Receipts 156 

Trincipal   Places  of   Resort  — Islands  in 

Lake  Superior 157 

Stkamhoat   Excursion,  South  Shore  — 

White  Fish  Point,  etc '. 158 

Pictured  Rocks  —  Grand  Marais  Har- 
bor       139 

Jiunising  —  Onota  —  Grand  Island,  etc 100 

MAR(iUETTE--Negauneo  — Iron  Mines...      101 

Ishpeniing  —  Michigamiuo 102 

Marquette  to  L'Ausc — Mar-juette,  Hough- 
ton and    Ontonagon   Railroad  —  Escar 

nal>a 103 

Pleasure  Excursion  — Stan nard's  Roek— 
Marquette  to  Portage  Entry  and  Hough- 
ton       164 

Huron  Bay  —  L' Anso  —  Portage  River  and 

Lake  —  Houghton  —  Copper  Mines 105 

Hancock  —  Portage  River  Improvement...      106 
Portage  and  Lake  Superior  Ship  Canul  — 

Calumet 107 

Keweenaw  Point— Copper  Harbor— Eagle 

Harbor— Eagle  River 108 

Ontonagon  —  Rockland  —  Silver  Mines- 
Porcupine  Mountain  —  La  Pointe 169 

iJay field  —Ashland  —  Houghton  Point 170 

Penokee  Iron  Range  —  Odauah  —  jVpostlo 

Islands 171 

City  of  Superior 172 

DuLUTH  —  Minnesota  Point 173 

Harbor        Improvements  —  Railroads  — 

Steamboat  Lines 174 

Mariner's  Guide  to  the  Upper  Lakes  — 

Light-Houses 175-170 

Table  of  Distances— Duluth  to  Isle  Royale 

aul  Pigeon  River 177 

Good  Harbor  Bay  —  Marais  Harbor  — 
Grand  Portage  Bay— Pigeon  Bay  —  Isle 

Royale 178 

Trip  along  the  South  'shore  of  Lake  Su- 
perior       179 

Rapida,  Saut  Ste.  Marie 130 


FAGB 

Lake  Superior,  North  Shore— Point  aux 
I'ins  —  Gros  Cap  —  ( loulais  Bay  —  Bat- 
eheewanaung  Bay  — Mamainse  Point...      181 

Montreal  Island  —  Cape  Gargantua  — 
Coasting  along  the  North  Shore 182 

Michipicoten  Ilarl)or  and  Island— Caribou 
Island  -  Otter  Head  —  Pie  River 183 

St.  Ignace  Island  —  Nepigon  Bay  —  Red 
Rock 184 

Nepigon  River,  its  Rapids  and  Lakes  — 
Waters  of  the  Nepigon 185 

Nepigon  River  —  Nepigon  Lake  explored      186 

Black  Bay— Trip  from  Marquette  to  Silver 
Islet 187 

Silver  Islet  and  Settlement 188 

Thunder  Bay  and  Cape  — Pie  Island- 
Prince  Arthur's  Landing 189 

Silver  Mining  Companies —  Fort  Willian* 
-McKay's  Mt.  —  Kaniinistiiiuia  River      190 

Report  of  the  Geology  of  the  Lake,  Supe- 
rior Country  — I'rince's  Bay,  etc 191 

Isle  Royale— Copper  and  Silver  Mines 192 

Latitude,  Elevation,  and  Temperature  of 
Signal  Stations  on  the  Upper  Lakes 193 

Lake  Superior — Objects  of  Interest— Bays, 
Harbors,  Islands,  etc 194-195 

PART  IX. 

Railroad  Route  from  Chicago  to  Green 
Bay  and  Marquette 196 

Pictured  Rocks  — The  Chapel  — Grand 
Portail,  Sail  Rock,  etc 197-201 

Lake  Superior  Region- Grand  Island  — 
JIunising,  etc 202 

Remarkable  Phenomena  —  Monumen- 
tal Rock 203-205 

Lake  Superior  Region— Phenomena  of  the 
Sea.sons 206 

Letter  from  Lake  Superior- North  Shore.207-208 

Meteorological  Table,  Temperature,  etc...      209 

Geography  of  Consumption  —  Deaths  in 
the  United  States 210 

Railroad  Route  from  Duluth  to  St. 
Paul  —  Fond  du  Lac 211 

Dalles  of  St.  Louis 212-213 

Thomson  — Northern  Pacific  Railroad  — 
JuQctiou  —  Uiackley 214 


1 


VIU 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Chengwatana  —  Wyoming  —  White  Bear 
Lake 215 

Lake  Plialen  —  Railroad  and  Steamboat 
Connections 216 

PART  X. 

TiiK  T^PPKR  Mississippi —  Its  Waters,  etc. 

—  Populiit ion  — Table  of  Distances 217-218 

Mississippi  Uiver — Principal  Tvilmtaries      219 
Stpauiboat   Route  from  St.  Louis  to  Du- 

bucpie  and  St.  Paul 220 

St.  Paul  to  l>ubu(iue  and  St.  Louis 221 

Distances  from  St.  Louis  to  New  Orleans 

—  St.  Paul  to  Mankato 222 

City  of  St.  Paul,  Description  of 223 

Progress  of  Minnesota  in  I'opulation,  etc..      224 

Early  History  of  St.  Paul 225 

First  Land  Si)eculator  in  St.  Paul— Jona- 
than Carver 226 

Drive  from  St.  Paul  to  the  Falls  of  St. 

Anthony— Fort  Snelling 227 

Places  and  ()l)jects  of  Interest  around  St. 

Paul  — Distances 228 

Lake  iMinnetonka — Minnc-lia-ha  River 

and  Falls 229 

Minnesota  River  —  Railroads 2.30 

Rridging  the  Mi.ssissi])pi  River 231 

View  of  the  l^'alls  of  St.  Anthoiw- 232 

View  of  Minne-ha-ha  —  City  of  St.  An- 
thony—  Minneapolis 233 

Minne-ha-lia  —  Anoka  —  St.  Cloud 234 

Sauk    Rapids  —  Walnb  —  Crow  Wing  — 

Nortliern  Minnesota  —  Otter  Tail  Lake.  235 
Interesting  to  Consumptives— Wlio  should 

go  to  Minnesota,  and  wlio  not 236-237 

Railroads  of  Minnesota 238 

Lake  Superior  and  Jlississippi  Railroad  — 

St.  Paul  to  Fort  Garry 239 


PAGE 

Climate  of  the  Upper  Mississippi  Valley 

—  Lakes,  Rivers,  etc 240 

Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi 241 

Trip  to  Pokegoma  Falls 242-243 

Rivers  and  I.,akes  of  Central  N.  America  244-246 

Rainfall  in  the  Upper  Lake  Region 246 

Lake  and  River  Fishing— Trout  Fishing — 

Mackinac  Trout  — Tlie  Muskellunge... 247-248 
PoHTA(ii'.  R<n  TK  from  Lake  Superior  to 

Lake  Winnipeg — Fort  William— Kam- 

inisticpiia  River  —  Dog  Lake 249 

Savan  River  —  Rainy  Lake —  Lake  of  tlie 

Woods 250 

Winnipeg  River — Lake  Winnipeg 251 

Lakes  in  the  Valley  of  the  Saskatchawan 

—  Red  River  of  the  North 252 

Red  River  Settlement —  Hudson  Bay  Co..      253 
Distances,   Fort  William  to   Fort  Alex- 
ander         254 


PART  XI. 

The  New  North  -  We.st  —  Northern 
Pacific  Railroad,  Stations,  etc 

Brainerd  —  Climate  of  Northern  Minne- 
sota  

Gull  River  —  Motley  —  Hayden  — Aldrich 

—  Perham 

Hobart  —  Detroit  —  Hawley  —  Glyndon... 

Moorhead  —  Climatic  Induence 

Table  of  Distances  from  Duluth  to  Bis- 
marck, Dakota 

Red  River  of  the  North,  etc 

Objects  of  Interest  —  James  River 

Dakota  and  its  Agricultural  Capacities 

Oiucial  Report  —  Bismarck 

Steamers  running  on  the  Upper  Missouri 

—  Table  of  Distances,  etc 

Access  to  the  Yellowstone  Park  —  Dis- 
tances and  Elevations 


255 

256 

257 
258 
259 

260 
201 
262 
263 
264 

26d 

266 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


Pennsylvania  Railroad 207 

Erie  Railway 208 

Ward's  Line  Lake  Superior  Steamers 209 

Lake  Superior  Royal  Mail  Line 270 

Duluth  Lake  Transportation  Co 271 

L'Anse  &  Houghton  Transit  Co 272 

Weddell  House,  Cleveland 273 


Michigan  Exchange  —  Rossin  House 274 

St.  Lawrence  Hall  —  Queen's  Hotel 275 

Mission  Hou.se  —  Chippewa  House 276 

Marquette  Business  Notices 277 

First  National  Bank,  Negaunee 278 

L'Anse  Business  Notices 279 

List  of  Books  and  Maps.... 280 


INLAND  SEAS. 


THE  magnitude  and  volume  of  the  waters  which  form  the  Inland  Seas, 
or  Great  Lakes  of  Anaerica,  is  so  large  as  to  exceed  the  comprehension 
of  most  minds,  unless  the  subject  has  been  closely  investigated.  Under  the 
above  designation  is  included  Lakes  Erie,  Huron,  Michigan  and  Superior, 
with  Green  Bay  on  the  American  side  and  Georgian  Bay  on  the  Canadian 
side  of  the  Boundary  Line  which  separatfs  the  United  States  from  the 
Dominion  of  Canada.  The  Straits,  or  connecting  links  forming  the  outlets 
to  this  vast  body  of  water,  are  St.  Mary's  Kiver,  Straits  of  Mackinac,  St. 
Clair  River  and  Detroit  River,  —  all  large  and  navigable  streams,  and,  by 
means  of  the  Ship  Canal  at  the  Saut  Ste.  Marie,  are  capable  of  floating 
vessels  of  2,000  tons  burthen  for  a  distance  of  1,200  miles,  from  Chicago  or 
Duluth  to  Buffalo,  New  York.  Here  navigation  for  a  large  class  of  vessels 
ceases  at  the  present  time ;  but  by  the  enlargement  of  the  Welland  Canal, 
or  the  construction  of  the  proposed  Niagara  Ship  Canal,  together  with  the 
enlargement  of  the  St.  Lawrence  Canals,  ships  of  a  large  burthen  could 
sail  direct  from  Chicago  or  Duluth  to  Montreal  or  Quebec,  and  thence  to 
European  ports. 

Before  many  years,  no  doubt,  all  the  above  facilities  will  be  afforded, — 
thus  conferring  incalculable  benefits  to  the  American  and  Canadian  public, 
as  well  as  to  the  commercial  world.  Then  all  the  Lake  ports  on  both  sides 
of  the  "  Inland  Seas,"  like  the  Baltic  and  the  Black  Seas,  or  the  Mediterra- 
nean, will  form  one  continued  line  of  sea-ports,  from  whence  can  be  shipped, 
at  a  low  rate,  all  the  agricultural  and  mineral  wealth  of  avast  region  of 
country  teeming  with  all  the  products  that  go  to  enrich  nations,  while  giving 
profitable  employment  to  thousands  of  laborers  on  land  and  water. 

This  great  thoroughfare,  lying  between  two  friendly  nations,  should  be 
carefully  guarded,  so  that  no  impediments  could  interfere  with  free  and 
open  navigation  from  the  Upper  Lakes  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  a  dis- 
tance of  upwards  of  2,000  miles. 

By  a  late  decision  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  United  States,  the  Upper 
Lakes,  including  Lake  Erie,  with  their  connecting  waters,  were  declared  to 

ix 


INLAND  SEAS. 


Ill 


be  Seas,  commercially  and  legally.  Congress,  under  this  decision,  is  em- 
powered to  improve  the  harbors  of  the  Lakes  and  connecting  Straits,  pre- 
cisely as  it  has  power  to  do  the  same  on  the  seaboard.  This  should  lead  to 
a  vigorous  policy  in  the  maintenance  of  Federal  authority,  both  in  improv- 
ing the  harbors  and  making  provision  for  the  safety  of  commerce,  by  guard- 
ing the  channels  of  communication  against  any  kind  of  obstruction. 

The  States  washed  by  the  Great  Lakes  are  New  York,  Pennsylvania, 
Ohio,  Michigan,  Indiana,  Illinois,  Wisconsin,  Minnesota,  and  Ontario, 
Canada — the  boundary  line  between  the  United  States  and  the  Dominion  of 
Canada  running  through  the  centre  of  Lakes  Superior,  Huron,  St.  Clair, 
Erie,  and  Ontario,  together  with  the  connecting  rivers  or  straits,  and  down 
the  St.  Lawrence  River  to  the  forty-fifth  parallel  of  latitude.  From  thence 
the  St.  Lawrence  flows  in  a  north-east  direction  through  the  Dominion  of 
Canada  into  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence. 

The  Lakes  alone  cover  an  area  of  upwards  of  90,000  square  miles,  draining 
a  surface  of  about  400,000  square  miles  of  territory,  situated  for  the  most 
part  on  the  northern  confines  of  the  temperate  zone,  being  capable  of  sus- 
taining many  millions  of  inhabitants. 

Already  the  commerce  of  the  Great  Lakes  has  assumed  immense  propor- 
tions,— during  the  year  1873,  upwards  of  37,000  vessels  of  different  classes 
passed  Port  Huron,  Mich.,  situated  on  the  river  St.  Clair,  at  the  foot  of  Lake 
Huron. 

With  all  this  immense  shipping  interest  involved,  it  has  been  proposed  by 
certain  moneyed  interests  to  bridge  both  the  Detroit  and  St.  Clair  Rivers  at  sev- 
eral points,  for  the  assumed  purpose  of  aflbrding  quick  transit  from  the  W^est 
to  the  Atlantic  seaboard.  This  privilege,  if  granted,  would  so  far  injure  lake 
navigation,  for  all  future  time,  as  to  place  a  great  impediment  on  commerce, 
that,  too,  to  the  injury  of  the  producer  and  consumer,  now  struggling  for 
cheap  transportation.  By  means  of  lake,  river  and  canal  transportation, 
millions  of  money  can  be  saved  as  compared  with  railroad  charges,  —  now 
severely  taxing  the  industries  of  the  country,  and  causing  high  prices  to  be 
charged  for  most  of  the  necessaries  of  life. 

All  the  lake  cities  and  towns,  as  well  as  cities  on  the  Mississippi  and 
Atlantic  seaboard,  should  alike  take  a  deep  interest  in  preserving  free  and 
uninterrupted  navigation  on  the  Great  Lakes,  as  well  enlarging  and  construct- 
ing Ship  Canals, — thus  increasing  the  volume  of  trade  through  the  legitimate 
channel  which  Nature  has  provided. 


CANAL  AND  RIVER  IMPROVEMENTS. 


The  proposed  Canal  and  liiver  Improvements,  in  order  to  connect  the 
waters  of  the  Mississippi  River  with  those  of  the  Great  Lakes  and  the 
Atlantic  Ocean,  are  of  the  greatest  importance. 

In  addition  to  the  Ohio  River  Improvements  and  the  Illinois  and  IVIichigan 
Canal,  which  are  of  great  advantage  to  commerce,  it  is  proposed  to  construct 
a  Canal  from  near  Rock  Island,  on  the  Mississippi  River,  to  ajunction  of  the 
Illinois  and  Michigan  Canal  at  Hennepin,  111.,  a  distance  of  ahout  80  miles. 
Another  Canal  and  River  Improvement  is  partially  completed  extending 
from  Green  Bay,  via  Lake  Winnebago  and  Fox  River,  to  Portage,  Wis.,  sit- 
uated on  the  Wisconsin  River.  The  latter  stream  enters  tlie  Mississippi 
River  a  few  miles  below  Prairie  du  Chien.  When  this  work  is  completed 
it  will  furnish  the  most  direct  and  convenient  water  route  between  the 
Valley  of  the  Upper  Mississippi  and  the  basin  of  the  Great  Lakes. 

By  referring  to  tiie  accompanying  Table,  showing  the  comparative  eleva- 
tions of  cities,  etc.,  on  the  banks  of  the  IMississippi  River  and  shores  of  the 
Groat  Lakes,  it  will  be  seen  that  there  is  nearly  a  level  divide  between  the 
two  great  systems  of  navigation  —  the  Mississippi  at  Rock  Island  being  ele- 
vated 528  feet,  and  at  Chicago,  on  Lake  Michigan,  578  feet. 

In  additiou  to  the  above  improvements  of  water  communication,  it  is  pro- 
posed to  construct  the  Huron  and  Ontario  Ship  Canal,  to  extend  from  Geor- 
gian Bay  to  Toronto,  situ.ated  on  Lake  Ontario,  a  distance  of  about  100 
miles.  The  difference  of  water  level  on  this  line  is  344  feet,  with  an  inter- 
vening summit  level,  at  Lake  Simcoe,  elevated  about  100  feet  above  Lake 
Huron.  This  canal,  when  completed,  will  shorten  the  water  communica- 
tion to  the  Atlantic  seaboard  several  hundred  miles.  Then  the  channel  of 
commerce  can  flow  down  the  St.  Lawrence  River  to  the  Ocean,  or  the  trade 
be  diverted  across  Lake  Ontario  to  Oswego,  or  other  American  ports  on  the 
above  Lake,  connecting  with  canal  and  railroad  lines  of  transportation  run- 
ning to  the  seaboard. 

zi 


mmam 


—a 


IBH 


TABLE  — Showing  the   Comparative   Elevation  of  Several   Places 

above  the  Ocean. 


Feet. 

Cairo,  Illinois 275 

Mouth  Ohio  River. 

CiNX'INNATI,   Ollio r)00 

Prn>iBUKGii,  PeMii.'^ylvania 700 

St.  Louis,  Missouri 33-") 

Alton,  Illinois 345 

Near  mouth  Missouri  River. 

Burlington,  Iowa 500 

EocK  Island,  Illinois 628 

Di'BUQUK,  Iowa 570 

Pkairik  i)U  Chien,  Wisconsin....  002 

La  Crosse,  Wisconsin G30 

Prescott,  Wisconsin 670 

St.  Paul,  Minnesota fiSo 

St.  Anthony,  Minnesota 700 


Feet. 

Crow  Wing,  Minnesota 1,100 

Braineri),  Minnesota 1,140 

Itasca  Lake,  Minnesota 1,550 

Lake  Superior GOO 

Rapids  at  Saul  Stc.  Marie,  IHfcet. 

Lake  Michigan 578 

Green  Bay 578 

Lake  Winnebago,  Wiscon.sin 748 

liAKE  Huron 576 

(iEORGiAN  Bay,  Canada 576 

La ke  St.  Clair,  Michigan 570 

Lake  Erie 565 

Falls  of  Niagara,  l()0/ce<. 

Lake  Ontario..... 232 


TABLE— SHOWING  THE  AREA,  DEPTH  AND  ELEVATION  OF  THE 

GREAT  LAKES  OF  AMERICA. 


I! 


'  '\ 


Great  Lakes. 


Superior 

Michigan 

Huron 

Erie 

Ontario 

Total  Area 


Greatest 

Lengtli. 

Miles. 


450 
320 
250 
250 
180 


Greatest 

Breadtli. 

Miles. 


170 

85 

120 

65 

85 


Greatest 

Depth. 

Feet. 


900 
700 
800 
250 
700 


Height 

above  iSea, 

Feet. 


600 
578 
576 
5()5 
232 


Area. 
Sfjiiaro 
Miles. 


32,000 

22,000 

20,500 

9,700 

6,300 


90,500 


'  t . 


xu 


■  i 


«»  .. 


Sailing  on  the  Great  Lakes. 


PART  I. 


S■'.M^MS  STRNU 


NATURAL  BEAUTIES  AND  OBJECTS  OF  INTEREST. 

IN  modern  times 
the  voyager,  in  sail- 
ing from  tiie  Amer- 
ican shore  to  Europe 
or  Asia,  or  in  nia]<- 
ing  the  circuit  of 
the  globe,  pursues  a 
trackless  path  across 
the  broad  ocean  without  being  in  sight  of  land  for  most 
of  the  distance.  Not  so  in  sailing  on  the  Great  Lakes  of 
America  —  forming  altogether  by  far  the  greatest  expanse 
of  fresh  water  on  tiie  face  of  the  earth.  Here,  however, 
we  have  no  "sea-gods"  to  appease,  or  leviathans  of  the 
deep  about  which  to  fabricate  marvellous  tales,  such  as 
the  salt  water  sailors  love  to  narrate.  To  faithfully  de- 
scribe, however,  the  magnificent  scenery  of  Lake  Sui)erior, —  the  "Gitclwe  Gitmmec," 
or  Big  Sea  water  of  the  Chippewa  dialect,  —  in  connection  witli  Indian  traditions, 
would  reveal  untold  wonders. 

Our  task  consists  of  a  plain,  unvarnished  narration  of  the  interesting  objects  that 
surround  the  Inland  Seas  —  made  famous  l)y  their  extent,  pure  air  and  waters, 
picturesque  islands,  cultivated  banks,  and  rich  deposits  of  various  kinds  of 
mineral  —  that  too  in  such  abinidance  as  to  vie  with  other  parts  of  the  world, 
both  as  to  richness  of  the  ore  and  the  extent  and  variety  of  the  deposits.  Here 
iron,  copper,  and  silver  are  being  annually  produced  in  marvellous  quantities  — 
also  other  precious  minerals  —  giving  proiitable  employment  to  many  thousand 
laborers. 

13 


i 


14 


SAILING  ON  THE  GREAT  LAKES. 


The  field  is  almost  illimitable,  covering  portions  of  the  Upper  Peninsula  of 
Micliigan,  Northern  Wisconsin,  and  Minnesota,  wliile  the  Province  of  Ontario, 
forming  part  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  comes  in  for  her  share,  as  yet  but 
partially  developed.  Add  to  the  above  the  value  of  the  fisheries  and  the  lumber 
trade,  and  you  have  wealth  enough  to  enrlcli  a  nation.  Then,  again,  the  healtii- 
invlgoratlng  climate  of  the  Upper  Lake  region  being  added  to  all  the  previous 
advantages  in  the  shape  of  wealth,  and  you  have  a  vast  virgin  country  which  the 
ancients  would,  no  doubt,  have  deified  as  the  abode  of  gods  of  a  superior  order. 
According  to  Indian  traditions,  some  of  the  islands  and  mountain  tops  have  already 
been  made  the  supposed  abode  of  their  great  spirits  —  partaking,  in  their  version, 
the  character  of  a  Divine  lieing. 

When  we  consider  that  the  far-famed  Niagara  cataract  has  no  equal  in  the 
world,  and  that  the  smallest  of  the  Ui)per  Lakes  exceeds  in  extent  that  of  any 
other  fresh  body  of  water  on  the  globe,  (excej)!  Lake  Baikal,  in  Kussia,)  with  the 
imperial  Lake  Superior  covering  an  area  of  upwards  of  thirty  thousand  scpiare 
miles,  having  a  depth  of  about  one  thousand  feet  near  its  centre,  and  standing  six 
hundred  feet  above  the  ocean,  into  which  it  flows  through  the  Illver  St.  Lawrence 
into  the  Gulf — its  outlet  bearing  several  different  names  before  it  enters  the  main 
stream  among  the  "Thousand  Islands," — then  being  bajitlzed  by  difierent  appella- 
tions, when  applied  to  its  plunging  rapids  and  gently  flowing  expansions,  which 
often  occur  in  its  long  course  to  the  ocean  —  forming  the  boundary  line  between 
two  rival  n*^  ions  —  these  grand  features  altogether  excite  our  admiration. 

The  principal  rapids  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  after  j)asslng  Lake  Ontario,  are  known 
as  the  Long  Sault,  Coteau,  Cedar,  Cascade,  and  La  Chine,  while  the  expansions 
are  called  Lake  St.  Francis,  Lake  St.  Louis,  and  Lake  St.  Peter.  It  also  receives 
the  Ottawa  River,  the  Saguenay  River,  and  several  other  considerable  streams,  all 
of  which  accumulated  waters  flow  onward  in  majestic  grandeur  to  the  briny  ocean 
—  its  tide-waters  extending  above  the  city  of  Quebec. 

The  above  rapid  sketch  of  lake  and  river  combined,  shows  \]\e  magnitude  and 
grandeur  of  the  whole  system  of  internal  communication  which  drains  an  area  of 
about  four  hundred  thousand  square  miles  of  territory,  affording  a  most  desirable 
outlet  for  the  products  of  the  North-western  States  of  the  Union,  as  well  as  for  the 
Douilnlon  of  Canada — sea-going  vessels  being  enabled,  by  means  of  ship  canals,  to 
ascend  for  fifteen  hundred  miles  above  tide-water  to  the  head  of  Lake  Michigan  on 
the  south,  or  Lake  Superior  on  the  west,  where  stand  two  rival  cities  of  modern  date. 

The  many  cities  and  villages  which  have  sprung  into  existence,  as  if  by  the 
magician's  wand,  and  adorn  the  shores  of  the  Great  Lakes  and  river,  as  well  as  on 
the  banks  of  tributary  streams,  are  equally  marvellous  as  the  mighty  waters  which 
drain  several  hundred  thousand  square  miles  of  territory,  most  of  which  extent  is 


CLIMATIC   INFLUENCE. 


15 


susceptible  of  settlement  and  cultivation,  and  principally  lying  within  the  temperate 
zone,  being  favored  with  four  seasons  —  Spring,  Summer,  Autumn,  and  Wiiiter. 

Tiicre  are  few  countries  that  have  so  varied  and  healthy  a  climate  as  the  one  in 
which  we  rejoice;  for  the  United  States  comprise  within  their  limits,  at  oie  aiid 
the  same  time,  almost  every  degree  of  temperature  from  zero  to  summer  heat.  If 
one  would  escape  the  cold,  driving  snow-storms  of  the  North,  and  the  gales  that 
pile  the  ice  into  the  harbors  of  the  Great  Lakes,  he  can,  if  he  will,  sit  under  the 
blooming  orange  groves  in  the  South ;  if  he  would  escape  the  torrid  heats  of  the 
summer  Atlantic,  he  can  find  unvarying  comfort  on  the  Upper  Lakes  or  the  Pacific 
sliores  ;  and  while  thus  a  wayfarer  among  all  tlio  zones  and  all  the  climates,  he  is 
always  at  home  in  his  own  country,  whore  health,  happiness,  and  freedom  prevail. 

While  Asia  boasts  of  her  Himalaya  Mountains,  and  Europe  of  lur  glaciers  and 
mountain  peaks,  America  can  justly  boast  of  her  lakes  and  rivers,  which  are  of  far 
greater  value  to  the  human  race.  In  addition  to  the  Valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
in  an  extended  view,  consider  the  extent  of  the  rich  Valley  of  the  Mississippi, — 
irrigated  by  the  "  Father  of  Waters,"  wiih  its  many  navigable  tributaries,  forming 
some  fifteen  thousand  miles  of  navigable  water  altogether,  flowing  gently  into  the 
Gulf  of  ^lexico,  giving  life  and  vitality  to  a  nation  of  freemen.  This  view,  when 
rightly  considered,  ought  to  make  the  American  people  bless  their  Creator. 

The  hand  of  God  is  apparent  on  the  bodies  of  the  Great  Lakes  and  the  tapper 
Mississippi  Valley,  where  air,  water,  and  sunshine  are  blended,  so  as  to  invigorate 
the  human  frame  and  make  life  a  pleasure.  The  very  animals  are  here  so  formed 
as  to  meet  the  changing  seasons  with  comfort,  being  warmly  clad  in  winter  with 
their  fur-bearing  robes,  which  they  shed  as  the  heat  increases. 

Passing  from  Summer  to  Winter,  the  region  of  the  Great  Lakes  undergoes  a  cli- 
matic change  which  it  is  hard  to  conceive,  and  still  more  difiicult  to  describe.  The 
East  is  still  the  land  of  the  "Arabian  Nights"  with  its  deserts  and  heated  plains, 
while  in  the  Western  world  the  scene  is  changed.  We  here  have  to  grapple  with 
the  secrets  of  nature,  and  by  observation  develop  more  astonishing  truths  than  the 
ancients  ever  conceived  of  in  their  flights  of  fancy  and  fiction.  If  Summer  here 
brings  its  reward  in  the  shape  of  renewed  vegetation  and  health,  Winter  does  the 
duty  designed  by  Nature  in  keeping  ever  pure  and  cold  the  waters  which  refresh 
us  during  warm  weather,  making  the  Lakes  the  great  refrigerator  for  the  benefit  of 
the  human  race.  Here  the  fimiy  tribe  love  to  gambol  in  the  cold  waters  of  these 
Inland  Seas,  yielding  their  share  in  supplying  man  with  healthy  and  invigorating 
food,  which  goes  to  sustain  the  body  while  improving  the  intellect. 


De  Soto,  while  seeking  for  gold  and  fountains  whose  waters  wore  to  prolong 
human  life  and  make  man  immortal,  reached  the  banks  of  the  turbid  Mississippi, 


I' 


IG 


SAILINO   ON  THE  GKEAT  LAKES. 


near  the  moutli  of  the  Aikannivs  River,  there  to  die  and  he  hiiried  in  the  hot  sandH 
that  lined  its  banks,  wliile  hin  fuHowers  proceeded  southward  in  hopes  of  ])rerterviiig 
their  lives. 

Fatuku  MATKitJKTTK,  at  a  Liter  period,  with  the  spirit  of  true  diseovery,  Imving 
ut  lieart  the  good  of  tiie  al)origines,  by  whom  he  was  adored,  wandered  along  tht 
shores  of  the  Inland  Seas;  liere  hearing  of  the  "(ireat  Mississippi,"  he  extended 
liis  travels,  reaching  Do  Soto's  ujjper  stream,  which  he  descended  several  hundred 
miles;  but,  being  informed  by  the  natives  that  the  country  was  inhabited  by 
hostile  Si)aniar(ls,  returned  to  die  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Michigan,  one  of  the  pure 
fountains  which  truly  invigorates  and  gives  life.* 

Marquc((c  was  the  lirst  real  explorer  of  the  Mississippi,  and,  after  De  Soto,  the 
first  European  who  beheld  it.  It  is  now  proposed  to  erect  a  suitable  momnnent  to 
his  memory.  "The  end  men  propose  to  tliemselves  is  seldom  the  end  they  reach. 
God  works  through  them  and  plans  over  them,  Manjuette  meant  the  Christiani- 
zation  of  a  handful  of  savages  and  tlie  aggrandizement  of  his  king.  He  opened 
to  tlie  world  the  gigantic  conmierce  of  half  a  continent.  They  jtreparcd  tiie  soil 
for  the  growth  of  an  independent  peoj)le,  greater  than  any  of  the  ])ast.  But 
though  tiiat  is  our  destiny,  let  us  not  be  deceived.  It  is  not  greatness  of  numbers, 
but  of  (pialily,  which  alone  should  occupy  this  splendid  New  World.  It  is  not 
advancement  only,  but  advancement  in  the  spirit  of  nobleness,  which  is  real  pro- 
gress. We  must  go,  as  Maniuette  went,  eager  for  knowledge,  for  discovery,  even 
for  new  and  material  gain,  on  the  one  hand,  but,  on  the  other,  not  less  eager  for 
trutii,  for  freedom,  for  justice,  for  the  helping  of  every  man  we  meet.  And  if  the 
proposed  monument  to  this  simple  priest,  who  never  dreamed  of  worldly  lionors, 
shall  keep  this  thought  in  the  mind  of  a  nation  not  too  prone  to  translate  the 
doctrine  of  manifest  destiny  into  spiritual  conquest,  that  monument  may  well  be 
builded." 


Many  of  the  people  of  Eastern  nations,  from  necessity,  utilize  the  water  as  well 
as  the  land  for  their  places  of  abode  —  erecting  cabins  or  Hoats  on  their  gnat  rivers 
as  their  dwellings.  Here,  in  i)rocess  of  time,  the  same  mode  may  be  adopted  by 
striving  millions  that  are  sure  to  congregate  on  our  inland  waters,  now  teeming 
with  life  and  commerce. 


*  Fathers  Manpiette  and  Joliot,  "n  the  17th  of  May,  1G73,  started  from  the  mission 
of  St.  Ignatius,  at  Michiliniackinac,  for  the  exploration  of  the  Mississij)j)i.  On  the 
10th  day  of  March,  1()75,  after  his  return,  Father  Marquette,  the  zealous  missionaiy, 
whose  life  was  devoted  to  the  cause  of  religion  and  the  welfare  of  the  Indians,  died 
on  the  east  shore  of  Lake  Michigan,  at  the  mouth  of  the  present  Marquette  lliver. 


NATUllAL   TEttUACES. 


17 


Vv'hcn  wo  view  llu'  lovely  Hhori's  luul  lioadlaiuls,  with  the  numerous  wooded 
ialauds,  which  adorn  the  Lakes,  now  mostly  UMiMiial)ite(l,  we  cannot  believe  the 
fitillncrfrt  of  dcatli  will  always  exist,  hut  that  man,  from  ciioice  or  necessity,  nuist 
ultimately  occuj)y  these  lovely  retreats.  The  Rhine,  with  its  teeming  villages  and 
castellated  editices,  will,  to  a  certain  extent,  he  reproduced  in  this  portion  of  our 
favored  country. 

Natural  Terraces. 

Natural  Terraces  abound  on  the  borders  of  the  Great  Lakes  as  well  as  on  the 
banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  aflbnling  delightful  sites  for  cities  and  villages 
as  well  as  country  residences.  I'rof,  AoAssiz  noticed  several  in  succession  on 
the  shores  of  Lake  Superior,  while  the  same  feature  is  to  be  seen  on  the  beautiful 
wooded  islands  of  Miehiincoten  and  Grand  Island  —  the  latter  the  "CJitcheo 
Mimising"  of  the  Chippewa  —  one  on  the  Canadian  and  the  other  on  the  American 
side  of  Superior.  Roth  of  these  islands  will,  no  doubt,  soon  become  fashionable 
resorts,  the  latter  being  in  the  vicinity  of  the  far-famed  "  I'ictured  Rocks." 

The  Island  of  Mackinac,  the  most  lovely  isle  on  the  Upper  Lakes,  is  already  tlie 
favorite  resort  of  seekers  of  health  and  pleasure  —  rising  terrace  on  terrace.  It  is 
elevated  from  one  to  three  hundred  feet  above  the  ]>ure  waters  of  the  Straits  of 
Mackinac,  and  will  always  attract  the  attention  of  the  relined  and  wealthy. 

Jjntutk  and  Superior  City,  standing  at  the  head  of  Lake  Superior,  are  both 
finely  situated,  the  one  on  a  rising  ascent  and  the  other  on  a  slightly  elevated 
l)lateau  or  terrace. 

Jhntfiilil,  lying  on  a  large  and  secure  hay,  jirotected  by  the  Apostle  Isles,  rises 
by  two  or  three  terraces  to  an  elevation  overlooking  one  of  the  most  extensive  and 
grandest  scenes  on  Lake  Superior,  extending  northward  through  a  labyrinth  of 
islands,  and  southward  across  Chatpiamegon  Ray,  where  the  entire  fieet  of  the 
Lakes  might  lie  in  security.  Ashland,  at  the  head  of  the  above  bay,  lies  on  an 
elevated  terrace  for  the  most  part,  while  the  water-front  is  improved  by  steamboat 
landings  and  railroad  depots. 

Keweenaw  Point,  from  Eagle  River  to  Portage  Lake,  presents  numerous  ter- 
races, many  of  which  are  already  occiipied  by  thriving  villages,  being  occupied 
by  sturdy  miners  engaged  in  mining  pure  copper,  for  which  this  section  of  country 
is  justly  famous. 

Marquette,  the  "Iron  City"  of  Superior,  is  another  beautifully  situated  town, 
situated  on  three  distinct  terraces,  rising  some  two  hundred  feet  above  the  waters 
of  the  Lake,  here  enlivened  with  vessels  of  commerce  and  the  sail-boat  of  pleasure, 
while  the  fisherman's  craft  may  be  seen  gliding  in  the  far  distance,  being  i)ropelled 
by  sails.    At  night  the  scene  is  enlivened  by  the  ever-watchful  mariner's  light- 


18 


SATLINQ  ON  THE  GREAT  LAKES. 


lionao  nnd  tlie  fiery  blazo  of  furnaces  sending  up  their  lurid  flaracs  fur  above  the 
Hurrounding  country. 

Miinising,  lying  on  Grand  Island  Bay,  is  situated  on  a  low  terrace,  while 
inuncdiutely  behind  rises  an  abrupt  liiL,  forming  an  elevated  plateau,  from  which 
descends  a  silver  stream  of  great  beauty.  This  whole  lake  front,  on  the  mainland, 
extending  east  to  Miner's  Castle  and  Kiver,  rises  by  terraces  of  steep  ascent  until 
the  Pictured  Rocks  arc  reached;  then  an  abrupt  precipice,  with  beetling  crags  and 
caves,  is  to  be  seen,  whieh  is  safe  to  approach  in  calm  weather,  but  dreaded  by 
the  mariner  during  severe  storms. 

The  Kiver  8t.  Mary,  or  Strait,  connecting  Lakes  Su[)erior  and  Huron,  with  its 
numerous  islands,  is  terraced  near  the  Rapids,  where  stands  the  ancient  and 
romantic  settlement  of  the  Saut  Ste.  Marie.  St.  Joseph  Island,  attached  to 
Canada,  is  an  elevated  piece  of  land  of  great  extent,  rising  gradually  above  the 
water's  edge. 

The  terraces  formed  by  the  St.  Clair  and  Detroit  Rivers  are  most  beauti fid,. when 
compared  with  the  low  banks  of  St.  Clair  Lake,  where  extensive  marshes  abound. 
For  the  most  l)art,  the  heavy  growth  of  forest  trees  arc  cut  down  along  the  banks 
of  the  above  broad  streams,  forming  the  outlet  to  Lakes  Superior,  Michigan,  and 
Huron,  while  in  the  back-ground  rises  the  majestic  oak  and  other  trees  of  the 
forest.  Detroit  occupies  a  fine  terrace,  rising  gradually  from  the  shores  of  Detroit 
River.    Here  steamers  and  sail-vessels  are  seen  contiiuially  passing. 

Lake  Erie,  on  its  south-eastern  shore,  presents  many  fine  elevations,  where 
flourishes  the  grape  and  other  kinds  of  fruit,  as  well  as  on  the  lovely  islands  which 
adorn  its  western  terminus.  The  terrace  on  which  Cleveland  stands,  elevated  about 
one  hundred  feet  above  the  waters  of  the  Lake,  is  one  of  tlie  most  beautiful 
sites  for  a  city  on  all  the  waters  of  the  Upper  Lakes,  while  other  localities  are 
nearly  equally  favored.  The  city  oi  Buffalo  stands  on  a  gently  rising  terrace,  un- 
rivalled for  healthy  situation,  convenience  and  beauty. 

From  the  head  of  Lake  Superior  to  the  city  of  Quebec,  the  Great  Lakes  and 
River  St.  Lawrence  present  the  most  luiiform,  clean,  and  lovely  banks  imaginable, 
being  continually  laved  with  pure,  clear  waters. 

Pleasures  of  Travel. 

There  are  thousands  of  people  in  the  Eastern,  Northern,  and  Southern  States 
that  desire,  during  warm  weatlier,  to  flee  from  a  hot  to  a  cool  climate  to  enjoy 
health  and  pleasure,  but  unfortunately  do  not  know  whither  to  direct  their  steps. 
Some  visit  the  sea-shore,  others  the  fashionable  watering-places  and  the  more 
mountainous  portions  of  the  countrj',  in  hopes  of  obtaining  a  desirable  location  to 
enjoy  themselves  —  often  without  any  satisfaction  other  than  a  relaxation  from 
business  pursuits. 


A  WORD  TO  TilE  WISE. 


19 


The  .lim  of  all  tourists  hIiouM  be  to  ohtain  enjoyment,  lioaltli,  and  knowledge. 
Tliirt  can  be  best  ol)talno(l  by  si'Ioctiiig  a  cool  retreat,  such  as  mountains  allbnl,  or 
the  islands  or  tiliorca  of  tlio  (./reat  Lakes  of  Amer.ica  —  more  ^tarticularly  Lake 
Superior. 

Comparing  all  sections  of  Europe  or  America,  Nature  has  done  more  to  render 
the  Great  Lake  region  cool  and  iieaithy  than  any  other  portion  of  the  globe,  in- 
cluding the  shores  of  Lakes  Huron,  Michigan,  and  Superior.  All  that  is  at  presf  nt 
wanted  is  good  Hotel  accon  editions.  Knowing  where  to  go,  however,  is  but 
half  the  knowledge  wanted.  Vou  next  want  to  know  how  to  travel  and  how  to  !'vc. 
The  best  mode  is  to  prepare  to  go  direct  to  some  given  point,  by  the  most  comfort- 
able conveyance,  not  forgetting  to  observe  all  the  objects  of  interest  on  the 
intended  route. 

If  bound  for  Lake  Superior,  proceed  to  some  of  the  ports  on  Lake  Erie,  or  start 
from  Detroit,  and  embark  on  a  favorite  steamer  for  Mackinac  or  Saut  Ste.  Marie. 
The  latter  interesting  jdacc  —  the  gateway  to  the  Lake  Superior  region — can  also 
be  reached  from  Chicago,  passing  Mackinac,  or  from  CoUingwood,  Canada,  the 
latter  route  passing  lovely  lake  and  river  scenery,  where  may  be  jjccu  numerous 
islands  and  islets. 


States 
enjoy 
steps, 
more 
ion  to 
from 


A  Word  to  the  Wise,  etc. 

We  quote  from  a  late  letter-writer: — "This  is  the  season  (during  the  warm 
summer  months)  for  universal  recreation  for  men  of  sedentary  occujtations,  such 
as  ministers,  merchants,  lawyers,  teachers,  students,  etc.,  but  very  poor  taste  and 
decrepit  judgment  are  often  displayed  in  making  choice  of  a  location  for  this 
popular  object.  The  purpose  is  frequently  completely  frustrated  through  this 
defect,  and  the  weary  pilgrim  in  search  of  necessary  recuperation,  physical  and 
mental,  returns  to  his  place  of  business,  after  weeks  of  unprofitable  sojourn  at  some 
crowded  resort,  disgiisted,  cross,  and  Inore  debilitated  than  if  he  had  remained  at 
his  desk  in  a  musty,  sultry  office,  or  behind  the  counter  in  the  stifling  atmosphere 
of  his  counting-room.  Why  do  they  not  betake  themselves  to  some  retired  retreat, 
like  the  Island  of  Mackinac,  or  Bayfield,  or  its  vicinity,  on  the  shores  of  Lake 
Superior,  where  Nature  presents  her  grandest  beauties ;  bury  themselves  in  the 
sombre  depths  of  the  primeval  forest,  or  hasten  to  some  picturesque  lake-side 
hamlet,  where  they  can  efTeetually  dismiss  the  shadows  of  care,  bid  adieu  to  the 
harassing  turmoils  of  the  commercial  world,  and  throw  the  whole  spirit  of  their 
being  into  the  most  delicious  yet  harmless  abandon.  Boating,  trout-fishing,  and 
other  sports  can  here  be  enjoyed  without  the  corrupting  influences  that  usually 
pervade  the  sea-bathing  resorts." 


20 


SAILING  ON  THE  GREAT   LAKES. 


SFIECTED  POETRY. 

THE  RIVER  ST.  LAWRENCE. 

A  ride  down  the  St.  Lawrence  during  the  summer  .'reason  is  regarded  as  a  nine 
qua  noil  by  all  pleasure-seekers  in  this  region.  The  noljle  river  abounds  in  varie- 
gated and  fascinating  scenery,  not  the  least  of  whicli  are  the  islands  and  tlie  rapids. 
"The  Thousand  Islands"  are  entered  upon  soon  after  leaving  Kingston,  and  con- 
tinue for  a  number  of  miles  down  the  river.  They  are  interesting  only  as  sugges- 
ti'^t'  of  those  convulsions  of  nature  that  must  have  produced  them.  The  other 
islands  of  the  river,  of  whicli  there  are  many,  are  more  attractive  in  their  quiet 
beauty.  Of  the  rapids,  the  most  noted  arc  those  of  the  "  Long  Sault "  and  the 
"  Lachine."  The  pas.sage  of  these  rapids  forms  the  most  exciting  part  of  the  trip. 
Most  of  these  rapids  are  circumnavigated  by  canals,  as,  owing  to  the  shoalness  of 
the  water,  laden  vessels  cannot  pass  them,  and  they  are  oidy  ]):issed  downward  by 
light  draught  steamers,  all  upward  bound  vessels  passing  through  the  canals.  Be- 
sides the  "Welland  Canal,  there  are  eight  of  these  canals  on  the  St.  Lawrence.  A 
writer,  catching  the  inspiration  of  the  above  scene,  improvised  the  following  lines 
referring  to  the  leading  features  of  the  trip  from  Kingston  to  Montreal : 


Down  the  St.  Lawrence  Eiver 

We  took  our  morning  ride  — 
Sweet  fragrance  from  the  summer  flowers 

Exhale  on  every  side ; 
And  Nature  wore  her  fairest  dress, 

As  we  went  out  the  bay. 
And  in  the  wildest  grandeur 

The  "  Tliousand  Islands  "  lay. 
The  din  of  dusty  cities  now, 

Witii  all  their  toil  and  strife, 
Was  all  forgoUen  for  a  while  — 

We  knew  a  higher  lif  . 
We  drank  the  inspiration 

From  rocks,  and  sky,  and  sea, 
And  felt  an  exultation 

Like  prisoners  set  free. 
We  leaped  amid  the  cascades, 

All  thrilled  with  wildest  glee, 
And  rocked  among  the  rapids 

As  in  a  stormy  sea. 


I 

I 


SELECTED  POETRY. 

Fair  maidens  clung  to  lover's  arms, 

Anil  brave  men  held  their  breath  ~ 
It  seemed  like  rashing  recklessly 

Into  the  arms  of  death. 
An(,n  the  "  Kingston  "  dropped  her  prow, 

Then  plowed  her  even  way, 
Just  as  the  stormy  petrel 

Sits  down  amid  the  spray. 
We  scream  with  perfect  ecstasy  — 

We  cannot  tell  it  now  — 
The  lustre  flashed  from  every  eye 

Shone  on  eacii  manly  brow. 
Life  gives  few  hours  so  brimful], 
'Twill  dwell  in  memory  long  — 
Green  spots  in  retrospection. 

The  richest  theme  for  song. 
Oh!  ye  who  feel  the  load  of  life, 
Crazed  by  its  blight  and  wiles', 
Go,  gather  health  and  bloom  agaia 

Among  the  Thousand  Isles; 
You  'II  feel  your  heart  grow  young  again, 

And  flow  forth  full  and  free, 
As  you  see  these  blending  rivers 
lioll  onward  to  the  sea. 


21 


f.';t 

f..i. 


SAIL  EOCK  (PICTURED  EOCKS),  LAKE  SUPEEIOE. 
From  the-flvr  Saut  of  Sainte  Marie  he  wanders. 
On,  ever  on,  the  white  foam  in  his  track, 
.     By  night,  by  day,  sails  fleet  before  the  wind, 
Until  he  sees  the  head  of  Fond  du  Lac; 
Yet  finds  not  there  the  rest  he  seeks  witii 'yearning  • 
Frown  all  the  cliftls  -  an.l  he  must  wander  forth  ' 
Over  the  waves  again,  by  south  winds  driven, 
Past  the  dark  Palisades  into  the  north. 

There  stands  the  haunted  arch  of  Spirit  River; 

There,  in  the  storm,  is  seen  the  misty  shape ' 
Of  Manitoii,  wim  guards  the  great  Superior, 

Rising  above  the  heights  of  Thunder  Cape; 
And  seeing  him,  the  guilty  one,  approaching,' 

The  voices  of  tiie  surf  rise  in  a  roar 
Below  the  porpiiyry  cliffls,  sounding  a  summons, 

To  call  the  spirits  to  the  lonely  shore. 


22 


SAILIXG  ON   THE  GREAT   LAKES. 


Down,  down,  they  troop  through  the  ravines  of  iron, 

Over  tlie  rocks  where  virgin  silver  sliines ; 
Up,  up,  they  roll  the  surf,  a  seething  barrier. 

And  marshal  on  the  beaeli  their  siiadow-lines, 
lie  cries,  he  weeps,  he  prays  with  arms  extended : 

"Have  mercy  uiwn  me,  a  soul  unblest  — 
I  come  not  for  your  stores  of  shining  treasure, 

I  only  beg  —  I  only  pray  for  rest. 

"Aged  am  I,  and  worn  Avith  countless  journeys, 

Over  tlie  lake  forever  nmst  I  stray ; 
In  the  whole  south  I  cannot  find  a  landing, 

Keweenaw's  copper  arm  thrusts  me  away; 
I  sail,  and  sail,  yet  never  find  a  harbor, — 

Stern  is  the  east,  and  sterner  is  the  west,  — 
Oh,  grant  me  but  one  footliold  on  the  north  shore, 

So  can  I  uie  at  last,  and  be  at  rest !  " 

But  no !    They  drive  him  off  with  jeers  and  shouting. 

Before  their  ghostly  glee  the  cursed  one  quails; 
Forth  from  the  silver  rocks  of  haunted  northlaud, 

Not  daring  to  look  back,  away  he  sails ; 
And  sails,  and  sails,  yet  never  finds  a  landing. 

Though  fairest  coasts  and  isles  he  passes  by ; 
And  hopes,  and  hopes,  yet  never  finds  a  foothold 

On  any  shore  where  he  can  kneel  and  die. 

Weary  and  worn,  through  many  a  red  man's  lifetime, 

Over  the  lake  he  wanders  on  and  on, 
Till  up  through  Huron,  with  red  banners  flying. 

Come  white  men  from  the  rising  of  the  sun ; 
The  Saut  they  name  from  Sainte  Jlarie  with  blessing, 

The  lake  lies  hushed  before  their  lioly  bell, 
As,  laiiding  on  the  shore  of  Ilocky  Pictures, 

They  raise  the  white  cross  in  Ic  grand  Chapdle. 

As  the  first  white  man's  hymn  on  great  Superior 

Sounds  from  the  roeky  church  not  made  with  hands, 
A  phantom-boat  sails  in  from  the  still  olUng, 

And  at  its  bow  an  aged  iigure  stands ; 
The  worn  cords  strain  so  full  the  sails  arc  swellin;^:. 

The  old  mast  bends  and  quivers  like  a  bow, 
Yet  calm  the  windless  sky  shines  blue  above  them, 

And  calm  the  windless  waves  shine  blue  belov/. 


■  ■   fl 

i 


SELECTED  POETRY. 

The  boat  glides  in,  still  faster,  faster  sailing, 

Like  lightning  darting  o'er  the  shrinking  milei., 
And,  as  he  hears  the  chanting  in  the  chapel, 

For  the  first  time  in  years.the  lone  one  sni'iles; 
At  last,  at  last,  his  feet  are  ou  the  dear  shore, 

Tiie  curse  is  gone,  his  eyes  to  Heaven  rise ;' 
At  last,  at  last,  his  mother  earth  receives  hira,— 

At  last,  at  last,  with  thankful  heart  he  dies. 

The  poor  worn  body,  old  with  many  lifetimes, 

They  find  there  lying  on  the  golden  sands,  ' 
But  lifting  it  vith  wonder  and  with  reverence, 

It  crumbles  into  dust  beneath  their  hands;  ' 
The  i)oor  worn  boat,  grown  old  with  endless'voyages, 

Floats  up  the  coast,  unguided  and  alone. 
And,  stranding  'neath  the  clitfs,  its  mission  over, 

By  the  Great  Spirit's  hand  is  turned  to  stone. 

You  see  it  there  among  the  Rocky  Pictures, 

The  mainsail  and  the  jib  just  as  they  v/ere; 
We  never  i)assed  it  with  a  song  or  laughter 

In  the  gay  days  when  we  were  voyagers; 
The  best  among  us  dofied  our  cajjs  in  silence, 

The  gayest  of  us  never  dared  to  mock 
At  the  strange  tale  that  came  down  fro'>i  our  fathers. 

The  pictured  legend  of  the  old  Sail-Rock. 

Constance  Fenimore  Woohon. 


23 


TO  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 

Tell  me  whither,  in  such  haste,  thou  goest, 

Ever  whirling,  boiling,  turbid  river! 
Art  thou  destined  as  thou  jiroudly  ttowest 

Always  tiius  to  freely  fiow  forever  ?        ' 
Strange  Mississippi !  thou  art  at  thv  source 

Clear  and  pure,  controllable  in  niotion  ; 
\\  hat  kindred  streams  Imve  urged  tliee  on  thy  course 

1   lose  thyself  so  angrily  in  ocean  ? 

Ere  man  in  his  primeval  habit  stood 

And  marked  the  boundaries  where  thou  hast  strayed 
rrr'''^    ,*'i".-'^"l  forests,  cane  and  cottonwood  ; 
Ihrough  prairie,  mountain  pass  aud  everglade; 


24 


SAILING  ON  THE  GREAT  LAKES. 


l;i 


■11! 
ii' 


In  undetermined  pathways  of  thy  own 

Tliy  course  has  ever  been,  as  it  sliali  he, 
For  iv^cH  j)ast,  for  years  to  come  unknown, 

As  wihl,  as  irresistible,  as  free. 

Instructive  m'^'nories  of  other  date 

Aloiii,'  tiiv  hanks,  a  tliousand  miles,  are  cast, 
'W'hieii  to  the  curious  travi'Ucr  relate 

Historic  records  of  tlie  hidden  iJa.-t; 
Which  tell  of  changes  tliat  were  slowly  wrought 

]Jv  thy  destructive,  devastating,'  tide; 
AVhich  mark  the  cliaraeter  of  human  thought, 

A  nation's  i)rogress  and  a  nation's  i)ride. 

Where  now  the  opulence  of  man  is  spread. 

And  art  and  industry  tiieir  gifls  bestow, 
The  painted  savage,  numbered  with  thy  dead. 

Was  the  sole  monareii  a  few  years  ago. 
Wliere,  undisturbed,  the  sea-fowl  llai)ped  its  wings, 

The  mariner  iiis  ca  vas  has  unfnrled. 
And  commerce  to  a  thrifty  ])eople  brings 

Th'  accumulated  riches  of  a  world. 

From  the  rough  hills  of  the  inclement  North, 

As  undeterred  by  distance  as  by  time. 
Thy  swelling  mass  of  waters  issue  forth 

To  bear  earth's  bounty  to  this  sunny  clime. 
How  often  on  tliy  willing  bosom  borne, 

Full-freighted  vessels  have  1  loved  to  scan. 
Each  on  its  ])eaeefnl  mission,  steering  on, 

To  cheer  the  intercourse  of  man  with  man  I 

As  now  along  thy  southern  l)anks  I  range. 

And  note  the  changes  that  L  tind  in  thee, 
I  am  reminded  of  the  greatest  change. 

That  surely  hast  and  nuist  come  over  me. 
Perhai)s,  for  ages,  thou  wilt  onward  move. 

In  all  thy  strength,  magnitieenee  and  pride, 
When,  sej)arated  from  tlic  friends  I  love, 

I  shall  be  sleeping  coldly  at  thy  side. 

Thy  edd'ing  stream  that  whirls  in  ceaseless  strife ; 

The  wrecks  that  on  thy  shifting  sands  are  seen, 
Are  but  a  history  of  human  life; 

Of  what  my  joys,  my  hopes,  my  fears  have  been. 
But,  unlike  thee.'oh,  may  my  cares  subside 

Kre  the  dull  grave  invites  me  as  its  guest! 
And  may  my  soul  in  peaceful  humor  glide, 

Into  a  haveu  of  eternal  rest. 

Maud. 


PART   II. 

EARLT  FRENCH  DISCOVERIES  IN  THE  REGION  OF  THE 

GREAT  LAKES. 


rPHE  discovery  of  tlie  *  Great  West,'  or  the  Valleys  of  tlie  Mississippi  and  the 
-L  Lakes,"  says  a  late  writer,  "  is  a  portion  of  our  history  hitherto  very  obscure. 
Those  magnificent  regions  were  revealed  to  the  world  through  a  series  of  daring 
enterprises,  of  which  the  motives,  and  even  the  incidents,  have  been  but  partially 
and  sui)erficially  known. 

"In  1()41,  Isaac  Jogues  and  Charles  Raymbault,  Jesuit  missionaries,  preached 
the  Faith  to  a  concourse  of  Indians  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  Superior.  Then  came 
the  havoc  and  desolation  of  the  Iroquois  War,  and,  for  years,  further  exploration 
was  arrested.  At  length,  in  lG-38,  two  daring  traders  penetrated  to  Lake  Superior, 
wintered  there,  and  brought  back  the  tales  they  had  heard  of  the  ferocious  Sioux, 
and  of  a  great  western  river  on  which  they  dwelt.  Two  years  later,  the  aged 
Jesuit  Menard  attempted  to  plant  a  mission  on  the  southern  shore  of  the  Lake ; 
but  perished  in  the  forest,  by  famine  or  the  tomahawk.  Allouez  succeeded  him, 
explored  a  i)art  of  Lake  Superior,  and  heard,  in  his  turn,  of  tlie  Sioux  and  their 
great  river,  the  'Mcssipi.'  More  and  more  the  thougiits  of  the  Jesuits,  and  not 
of  the  Jesuits  alone,  dwelt  on  this  mysterious  stream.  Through  what  regions  did 
it  flow  ;  and  whither  would  it  lead  them;  to  the  South  Sea,  or  the  'Sea  of  Vir- 
ginia ; '  to  Mexico,  Japan  or  China?  The  problem  was  soon  to  be  solved,  and  the 
mystery  revealed." 

Father  James  Marquette,  in  the  spring  of  1GG8,  arrived  at  the  Saut  Ste.  Marie; 
Father  Dablon  in  1609,  when  the  first  permanent  settlement  was  made  on  the  soil 
of  Michigan.  During  the  same  year  Father  Manjuette  visited  La  Pointe,  where 
he  found  several  Indian  villages  composed  of  tlie  Huron  tribe.* 

To  Fathers  Marquette,Dablon,  Jolliet,^ul  La  Sallg^esiut  missionane^arc  due 
the  credit  of  the  full  discovery  of  the  Great*  Lakes  and  the  Upper  Mississippi 
Kiver,  between  the  years  1GG8  and  1G78. 

Marquette  visited  Michilimackinac  in  1G70,  and  spent  a  winter  there  before  the 
establisliment  of  his  mission.     Point  St.  Ignace,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Straits, 

*  The  Jesuits  and  fur-traders,  on  their  way  to  the  Upper  Lakes,  had  followed  the 
route  of  the  Ottawa,  tlirough  Canada,  or,  more  recently,  that  of  the  Goori,'ian  Bay. 
Iroquois  hostility  had  long  closed  the  Niagara  portage  and  Lake  Erie  against  them. 

25 


till- 


26 


SAILING  ON  THE  GREAT  LAKES. 


was  selected  as  the  most  suitable  spot  for  the  proposed  mission,  and  there,  in  1671, 
a  rude  and  unshapely  cliapel  was  raised,  as  "  the  tirst  Sylvan  Shrine  of  Catholicity" 
at  Mackinac.  This  primitive  temple  was  as  simple  as  the  faith  taugiit  by  the 
devoted  Missionary,  and  had  nothing  to  impress  the  senses,  nothing  to  win  by  a 
dazzling  exterior  the  wayward  children  of  the  forest.  The  new  mission  was  called 
St.  Ignatius,  in  honor  of  the  founder  of  the  Jesuit  order,  and  to  this  day  the  name 
is  perpetuated  in  the  point  up>on  which  the  mission  stood. 

The  French  take  Possession  of  the  Country. 

"  During  the  year  of  1671  an  event  occurred  of  no  common  interest  and  impor- 
tance in  the  annals  of  French  history  in  America,  but  which,  after  all,  was  not 
destined  to  exert  any  lasting  influence.  Nicholas  Perrot  had  been  commissioned 
as  the  agent  of  the  French  (xovernment  to  call  a  general  Congress  of  the  Lake 
tribes  at  the  Falls  of  St.  Mary.  The  invitations  of  this  enthusiastic  agent  of  the 
Bourbon  dynasty  reached  the  tribes  of  Lake  Superior,  and  were  carried  even  to 
the  wandering  hordes  of  the  remote  North  and  West.  Nor  were  the  nations  of 
the  South  neglected.  Obtaining  an  escort  of  Pottawatomies  at  (Ireen  Bay,  Perrot, 
the  first  of  lOuropcans  to  visit  that  place,  repaired  to  the  Miamis  at  Chicago  on  the 
same  mission  of  friendship  and  diplomacy. 

"In  May,  the  day  appointed  for  the  unwonted  spectacle  of  the  Congress  of 
Nations  arrived.  St.  Lusson  was  the  French  oflicial,  and  Allouez  his  interpreter. 
From  the  head-waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  from  the  Cireat  Lakes,  from  the  Mis- 
sissippi, and  even  from  the  Red  lliver  of  the  North,  envoys  of  the  wild  republi- 
cans of  the  wilderness  were  present;  and  brilliantly  clad  officers  from  the  veteran 
armies  of  France,  with  here  and  there  a  Jesuit  missionary,  completed  the  vast 
assembly.  A  cross  was  set  up,  a  cedar  post  marked  with  the  French  lilies,  and  the 
representatives  of  the  wilderness  tribes  were  informed  that  they  were  under  the 
protection  of  the  French  king.  Thus,  in  the  presence  of  the  ancient  races  of 
America,  were  the  authority  and  the  faith  of  France  uplifted  in  the  very  heart  of 
our  (Continent.  But  the  Congress  proved  only  an  echo,  soon  to  die  away,  and  left 
no  abiding  monument  to  mark  its  glory." 

The  aborigines  inhabiting  the  Lower  and  Upper  Peninsulas  of  ^lichigan,  in 
early  times,  of  which  we  have  any  knowledge,  were  the  Chippewa  or  Ojibway  tribe 
of  Indians,  a  branch  of  the  numerous  Algonquin  family.  In  the  more  southern 
part  of  the  territory,  however,  were  found  scattered  tribes  of  Hurons  or  AVyandots, 
Miamis,  Ottawas,  Winnebagoes,  Pottawatomies,  and  other  tribes,  living  in  jieaceful 
contiguity.  The  Chippewas  still  retain  and  occupy  their  former  hunting-ground.s, 
extending  from  Georgian  Bay  or  Lake  Huron,  both  shores  of  Lake  Superior,  and 
■westward  to  the  head-waters  of  the  Mississippi. 


f 


EARLY  FRENCH   DISCOVERIES. 


27 


k 


French  Account  of  the  Ancient  Mines  and  Miners  of  Lake  Superior. 

In  the  Relation  for  16(]G-'67,  Chap,  ii.,  page  32  ct  scq.,  entitled  "  Bdufton  (Te  la 
Misnion  da  Si.  Ksprlt,  aux  Oalaovecs  dans  Ic  Lac  Trdcij  dile  uupravant  le  Lac  Su- 
periear.  Journal  du  voyage  du  Pere  Claude  AUouez  dans  le  Pais  de  Outaouacs," 
we  find  these  passages : 

"The  savages  respect  this  lake  as  a  divinity,  and  make  sacrifices  to  it,  on  aoconnt 
perhaps  of  its  magnitude,  for  it  is  two  hundred  leagues  long  and  eiglity  wiilc  ;  on 
account  of  its  goodness  in  furnishing  tlieni  witli  fishes,  whicii  nourish  all  lliose 
people  where  there  is  hut  little  game.  There  are  often  found  beneath  the  water 
pieces  of  copper  all  formed,  and  of  the  weiglit  of  ten  and  twenty  pounds.  1  liave 
seen  thena  many  times  in  the  hands  of  the  savages ;  and  as  they  are  suj)crstitious, 
they  keep  them  as  so  many  divinities,  or  as  presents  from  the  gods  heneath  the 
water,  wlio  have  given  them  as  pledges  of  good  fortune.  On  tliat  account  they 
keep  tiie  pieces  of  copper  enveloped  among  their  most  precious  furniture.  There 
are  some  who  have  preserved  them  for  more  than  fifty  years,  and  others  who  have 
had  tliem  in  their  families  from  time  immemorial,  and  cherish  them  as  household 

Some  time  since  a  large  mass  of  copper,  like  a  rock,  was  seen  with  the  point 
projecting  out  of  the  water.  This  aO!)rdcd  i)assers-by  an  op})ortunity  of  cutting 
otl"  pieces.  Nevertheless,  when  I  went  there  it  was  not  to  be  seen.  I  believe  the 
storms,  which  are  here  very  violent,  and  like  tiiose  on  the'  sea,  liad  covered  tiie 
copper  rock  witii  sand.  Our  savages  wished  to  persuade  us  that  it  was  a  divinity, 
and  liad  disappeared,  for  some  reason  winch  they  did  not  mention. 

"  De  la  MUiion  du  Sainte  Esprit  a  la  Poiule  de  CliagaoimmUjonrj  dans  le  Lac  Tracy 
ou  Siiperirur  —  chap,  xi.,  des  proi)rietez  et  Raritez." 

From  tiie  above  work  I  have  transl.ited  the  following  interesting  description  of 
the  form  of  Lake  Superior,  and  of  the  copper  found  tiu.'re  : 

"  Tiie  Lake  has  nearly  tlie  form  of  a  bended  bow,  of  more  than  eighty  leagues  in 
length.  The  southern  side  represents  the  string;  and  a  long  tongue  of  land  which 
springs  from  the  centre  of  the  southern  shore,  and  i)rojects  upwards  of  twenty-live 
leagues  into  tiie  lake  near  to  its  middle,  is  the  arrow.     [Keweenaw  Point.] 

"Tiie  northern  coast  is  lionlered  witli  friglitful  crags,  wliich  are  the  termination 
of  the  I'rodigious  chain  of  mountains  wliich  take  tlicir  rise  at  Cape  Toiirment, 
above  Quebec,  ami  extend  to  tliis  place,  traversing  more  than  six  hundred  leagues 
in  extent,  and  losing  themselves  in  tlie  fartlier  extremity  of  the  Lake.  Tliere  are 
very  few  islands  in  tlie  Lake,  and  they  occur  mostly  on  the  northern  shore.  This 
great  expanse  of  the  waters  gives  room  for  the  winds,  which  agitate  tlie  lake  with 
as  much  violence  as  they  do  the  ocean." 

On  page  26  is  a  cliapter  headed  "  Mines  of  Copper  which  are  found  on  Lake 
Superior." 

I'l)  to  the  present  time  it  w.as  believed  that  these  mines  were  found  on  only  one 
or  two  of  the  islands ;  Imt  since  we  liave  made  a  more  careful  inquiry,  we  have 
learned  from  the  savages  some  secrets  which  they  were  unwilling  to  reveal.  It 
was  necessary  to  use  much  address  in  order  to  draw  out  of  them  tlii*  knowledge, 
and  to  discriminate  between  truth  and  falsehood.  We  will  not  warrant,  however, 
all  we  learned  from  their  simple  statement,  since  we  shall  be  able  to  speak  with 
more  certainty  when  we  have  visited  the  places  themselves,  which  we  comit  oa 


Jti 


28 


SAILING  ON  THE  GREAT  LAKES. 


.1   V 


doing  tliia  summer,  when  we  shall  go  to  find  the  "  wandering  sheep  "  in  all  quarters 
of  tiiis  great  Lake.  Tiio  first  place  where  copper  occurs  in  abundance  alter  going 
above  the  8a\it  is  on  an  island  about  forty  or  fifty  leagues  therefrom,  near  the 
north  shore,  opposite  a  place  called  "  Missipiconatong," 

The  savages  say  it  is  a  fioating  island,  which  is  sometimes  far  off  and  sometimes 
near,  according  as  the  wintls  move  it,  driving  it  sometimes  one  way  and  sometimes 
another.  They  add  that,  a  long  time  ago,  four  Indians  accidentally  went  there,  being 
lost  in  a  fog,  with  which  tliis  island  is  almost  always  surrounded.  It  was  long 
before  they  had  any  trade  with  the  French,  and  they  had  no  kettles  or  hatchets. 
Wishing  to  cook  some  food,  they  made  use  of  their  tisual  method,  taking  stones 
which  they  ])icked  up  on  the  shore,  heating  them  in  a  fire,  and  throwing  tlicni  into 
a  bark  trough  full  of  water,  in  order  to  make  it  boil,  and  by  this  operation  cook 
their  meat.  As  tbey  took  uj)  tlie  stones,  they  found  they  were  nearly  all  of  them 
pure  copper.  AlUr  having  partaken  of  their  meal,  they  thought  of  end)arking, 
fearing  to  remain  lest  the  lynxes  (loups  cerviers)  and  the  rabbits  (lievres),  which 
are  in  the  place  as  large  as  dogs,  (!)  would  come  and  eat  up  their  provisions,  and 
even  their  canoe.  Before  leaving  they  collected  a  (punitity  of  these  stones,  both 
large  and  small  ones,  and  even  some  sheets  of  copper;  but  they  had  not  gone  far 
from  the  shore  before  a  loud  voice  was  heard,  saying  in  anger,  "  AVho  are  these 
robbers  who  have  stolen  the  cradles  and  playthings  of  my  children?"  The  sheets 
of  copper  were  the  cradles,  for  the  Indians  make  them  of  one  or  two  pieces  of 
wood  (a  fiat  i)iece  of  bark  with  a  hoop  over  one  end),  the  child  being  swathed  and 
bound  ni)on  the  fiat  piece.  The  little  jiieccs  of  co]>])er  which  they  took  were  the 
playthings,  such  i)ebbles  being  used  by  Indian  children  for  a  like  purpose.  This 
voice  greatly  alarmed  them,  not  knowing  what  it  could  be.  One  said  to  the  others, 
it  is  thunder,  because  there  are  fretpient  storms  there;  others  said  it  is  a  certain 
genii  whom  tbey  call  "Missibizi,"  who  is  reputed  among  these  peojde  to  be  the 
god  of  the  waters,  as  Nej)tune  was  among  the  Pagans;  others  said  that  it  came 
from  Memogovissiousis  —  that  is  to  say,  seamen,  similar  to  the  fabulous  Tritons,  or 
to  the  Sirens,  which  live  always  in  the  water,  with  their  long  hair  reaching  to  their 
waists.  One  of  our  sav.iges  said  he  ha<l  seen  one  in  the  water;  nevertlieless,  ho 
must  have  merely  imagined  he  did.  However,  this  voice  so  terrified  them  tlust 
one  of  these  four  voyarjeurs  died  before  they  reached  land.  Shortly  after,  a  second 
one  of  them  expired;  then  a  third,  so  that  only  one  of  them  remained,  who,  re- 
turning home,  told  all  that  had  taken  ])lace,  and  died  shortly  afterwards.  The 
timid  and  superstitions  savages  have  never  since  dared  to  go  there  for  fear  of  losing 
their  lives,  believing  that  there  are  certain  genii  who  kill  those  Avho  land  llicrc; 
and  within  the  memory  of  man  no  one  has  been  known  who  has  set  foot  on  that 
shore,  or  even  coasted  along  its  shores,  althoiigh  the  island  is  within  sight,  and 
even  the  trees  are  visible  upon  another  island  called  Achemikonan. 

There  is  both  truth  and  error  in  this  story,  and  this  is  most  pro1)ably  the  expla- 
nation: These  four  savages  were  poisoned  by  the  water  which  they  boiled  with 
red-hot  copper,  which,  by  the  intensity  of  the  heat,  gave  ofi'  a  poison,  etc.  It  is 
not  a  poison  which  acts  immediately,  and  on  one  as  soon  as  it  will  on  another,  as 
happened  in  this  case.  It  may  be  that  when  they  were  taken  ill,  they  more  readily 
imagined  they  heard  a  voice;  perhaps  they  heard  an  echo,  such  as  are  very  com- 
mon among  the  rocks  which  border  this  island;  or  ])erhaps  they  made  this  fable 
since,  not  knowing  to  what  to  attribute  the  death  of  tJiese  Indians.  "When  they 
eaid  it  was  a  fioating  island,  it  is  probable  they  may  have  been  misled  by  the  vaiwrs 


EARLY   FRENCH   DISCOVERIES. 


29 


which  surround  it, —  they  beinj,'  nirctied  or  condensed  by  the  variablo  action  of  tlio 
Bun'rt  rays,  made  the  island  appear  sometimes  near  and  sometimes  far  (.(1".  It  is 
certain,  however,  tliat  it  is  a  common  belief  amon^  the  Ijidians  that  tiierc  is  an 
abundance  of  copi)er  on  this  island  ;  but  they  dare  not  go  there.  We  hope  to  begin 
our  discoveries  upon  it  tiiis  siunmer. 

Advancing  to  a  place  called  the  (irand  Anse  [(ircat  Bay],  we  meet  with  an  island 
three  leagues  from  lanil,  which  is  celebrated  for  the  metal  which  is  found  tlare,  and 
for  the  thunder  wiiicii  takes  place,  because  they  say  it  always  thunders  tliere. 
[Thunder  Cape.]  But  further  toward  the  west,  on  the  same  north  shore,  is  the 
island  most  famous  for  copper,  called  the  "  Minong,"  (the  good  place.)  [Isle 
Koyale.]  This  island  is  tweiuy-live  leagues  in  length  ;  it  is  seven  leagues  from  the 
main  land  and  sixty  from  the  head  of  the  Lake.  Nearly  all  around  the  island,  on 
the  water's  edge,  pieces  of  copper  are  found  mixed  with  pebbles,  but  espi'cially  on 
the  side  which  is  opposite  tiie  south,  and  principally  in  a  certain  bay  which  is  near 
the  north-east  exposure  to  the  great  Lake.  There  are  shores  "  tons  escarpez  de  terre 
glaize,"  and  tiiere  are  seen  several  layers  or  beds  of  copper,  one  over  the  other, 
Heparated  or  divided  by  other  beds  of  earth  or  rocks.  "  In  the  water  is  seen  copper 
sand,  and  one  can  take  up  in  sjxjons  grains  of  the  metal  big  as  an  acorn,  and  others 
fine  as  sand."  [This  description  probably  refers  to  Koek  Harbor.]  This  island 
is  alniust  surrounded  with  islets,  which  are  said  to  be  composed  of  copper,  and 
they  are  met  witii  even  to  the  main  land  on  the  north.  One  of  them  is  two  giui- 
shots  from  "Minong"  —  it  is  near  the  middle  of  the  island,  and  the  end  wliich 
looks  towards  the  north-east.  Farther  out  on  this  side  there  is  another  island, 
called  "Mauitouminis,"  on  account  of  the  copper  which  abounds  on  it;  and  it  is 
said  that  those  who  were  there  on  one  occasion,  on  throwing  stones,  made  it  resound 
like  an  explosion. 

Advancing  to  the  Lake  and  returning  one  day's  journey  bv  the  south  coast,  there 
is  seen  on  the  edge  of  the  water  a  rock  of  copper  which  weighs  seven  hundred  or 
eight  hundred  pounds,  and  is  so  hard  that  steel  can  hardly  cut  it;  but  wlun  it  is 
heated,  it  cuts  as  easily  as  lead.  Near  Point  Chagaouainigong  [("iKupiamei^'on], 
whei  a  mission  was  established,  rocks  of  copper  and  plates  of  metal  were  found 
on  the  shores  of  the  islands. 

Last  spring  we  bought  of  the  savages  a  sheet  of  pure  copper,  two  feet  scpiare, 
which  weighed  more  than  one  hundred  pounds.  We  do  not  believe,  however,  that 
the  mines  are  ibund  on  these  islands,  but  that  ihe  copper  was  probably  brought 
from  "Minong,"  [Isle  Koyale,]  or  from  other  islands,  by  floating  ice,  or  over  the 
bottom  of  the  Lake  by  the  impetuous  winds,  which  are  very  violent,  particularly 
when  they  come  from  the  north-east. 

Keturning  still  towards  the  month  of  the  Lake,  following  the  coast  on  the  south, 
at  tweiUy  leagues  from  the  place  last  mentioned,  we  enter  the  river  called  "  Nau- 
tounagan,"  [Ontonagon,]  on  which  is  seen  an  eminence  where  stones  and  copper 
fall  into  the  water  or  upon  the  earth  ;  they  are  readily  found.  Three  years  since, 
we  received  a  piece  which  was  brought  from  this  place,  which  weighed  a  hundred 
pounds,  and  we  sent  it  to  Quebec,  to  M.  Talon.  It  is  uncertain  exactly  where  this 
was  taken  from ;  some  think  it  was  taken  from  the  forks  of  the  river,  others  that 
it  was  from  near  the  lake,  and  dug  uj)  from  the  soil. 

Proceeding  still  forther,  we  come  to  the  long  point  of  land  which  we  have  com- 
pared to  the  arrow  of  the  bow  (Keweenaw).  At  the  extremity  of  this  there  is  a 
email  island,  which  is  said  to  be  only  six  feet  square,  and  all  copper ! 


'ii 


n 


80 


BAILING  ON  THE  GREAT   LAKES. 


We  are  assured  that  copper  is  found  in  various  places  along  the  southern  shore 
of  tilt'  Lake.  All  the  infoniiatioii  we  obtained  from  others  it  is  not  neci'ssary  for 
us  to  detail  ;  hut  it  seems  neeessary  tliat  more  exaet  nsoareiies  should  be  made, 
and  tliis  is  wiiat  we  aiiall  endeavor  to  eliirt.  If  (Jod  prospers  us  in  our  enterprise, 
we  shall  speak  next  year  with  more  eertainty  and  knowledge. 

Tlie  lielaeion  of  1670-71  eoiitains  the  remarks  of  iVre  Ahlon.  In  the  second 
part  he  f?ave  an  account  of  the  copjier  mines  in  paj^e  01  :  "  We  would  remark,  by 
the  way,  that  copper  is  found  in  all  parts  of  tins  Lake,  although  we  liave  not  as  yet 
Hidhcientlv  exact  knowledge,  for  want  of  thorough  explorations  ;  nevertheless,  iiio 

t)lates  and  masses  of  this  metal  which  we  iiave  seen,  weigh  each  a  hundred  or  two 
umdred  pounds,  and  nuich  more.  The  great  rock  of  copper  of  seven  hundred 
pounds,  and  which  all  the  travellers  saw  near  the  head  of  the  Lake,  besides  a 
quaiUity  of  pieces  whicli  are  found  near  the  shores  in  various  j)laces,  seem  not  to 
permit  us  to  doubt  that  there  are  somewhere  the  parent  mines,  which  have  not 
been  discovered." 


I 


I 


i 

[it 


l.i 


Mi' 

j  1 


lilt 


Father  Marquette  and  ills  Discovery  of  the  Mississippi  River. 

Our  hero,  James  Marquette,  was  horn  of  the  noble  family  of  Marquette,  in 
the  northern  part  of  France,  in  the  year  1037.  Li  the  city  of  Laon,  on  the  mean- 
dering, vine-clad,  olive-girt  little  River  Oise,  where  his  ancestors  had  raised  and 
exerted  a  wide  influence  for  generations  before  him,  he  also  sj)ent  his  youthful 
days  till  the  age  of  seventeen;  he  then  attached  himself  to  the  Society  of  Jesus, 
or  Jesuits,  and  with  them  pursued  a  course  of  study  preparatory  to  the  priesthood. 
When  invested  with  orders,  having  a  strong  preference  for  the  nnssionary  work, 
he  determined  to  make  the  wilds  of  America  the  fields  for  his  future  lahor.  So, 
in  the  summer  of  1006,  he  sailed  for  Canada,  on  the  20th  of  September,  and  landed 
at  Quebec,  then  but  a  trading-post.  lie  was  soon  recognized,  by  his  courage  and 
zeal,  as  a  man  specially  fitted  to  advance  the  eflbrts  that  had  been  made  among 
the  Algonquins  on  Lake  Superior,  but  which  had  been  nearly  extinguished  by  the 
incursions  of  the  warlike  Iroquois.  Accordingly,  Father  James  Marquette,  on  the 
10th  of  October,  of  the  same  year  that  he  landed,  embarked  again,  but  now  in  a 
bark  canoe,  conducted  by  a  couple  of  the  Mission  Indians,  for  the  "Three  Rivers," 
there  to  commence  the  study  of  the  language,  and  soon  after  he  proceeded  to  the 
Ottawa  Mission  on  Lake  Superior.  At  first  he  was  stationed  at  the  Saut  Ste.  Marie, 
but  in  a  few  months  it  was  deemed  expedient  to  remove  him  farther  on  to  the 
mission  at  La  Pointe. 

The  bands  that  lived  about  the  south-western  shores  of  the  Lake  were  annually 
visited  by  the  Illinois,  who  came  from  their  broad  prairie-homes  on  the  "Great 
Mississippi,"  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  by  barter  the  trinkets  and  chattels  dis- 
tributed by  the  French.  The  glowing  description  given  by  these  of  the  "  Great 
Water,"  the  Mississippi,  that  flowed  south  through  many  nations,  and  emptied 


:■« 


FATHER   MARQUETTE  AND   HIS   DISCOVEIIIES. 


81 


itself,  after  lUiiny  rnoonH*  Journovin<jH,  into  the  salt  sea,  awaki'mnl  in  Father  Mar- 
(pietteau  ardent  desire  to  explore  thin  inysterions  river,  fiml  whether  or  not  the  Hea 
it  emptied  into  was  the  WcHtern  Ocean,  and  cany  to  the  Southern  nations  the 
Gospel  of  peace. 

Tiie  lliirons  at  La  Pointe  were  aliont  aliandoninjj  their  homes,  from  fear  of  the 
Sioux  warriors;  and  our  missionary,  thoujrh  loth  to  remove  farther  from  his 
cherished  dewirc  of  Koing  nouth-west  to  the  Illinois  and  other  Mississippi  nations, 
yet  accomi>anied  them  l)ack  in  their  canoes  to  Mackinac,  and  there  rehuilt  the  old 
cluirch  that  had  heen  for  a  f    ue  <leserted. 

In  tlie  summer  of  1(»7'J,  ,'  C'omte  de  Frontenac,  (Jovernor  of  Cana<la,  clearly 
perceiving  the  importance  ol  an  exploration  of  the  Mississiiipi  River  and  its  out- 
let, appointed  Sietir  S^  JoUiet,  accompanied  hy  Father  Manjuette,  to  make  the 
disi'overy  ;  hut  on  their  return,  .rolliet's  journals  and  reports  were  lost  hy  the  uj)- 
settin},'  of  their  canoe  helow  the  Sault  St.  Louis,  near  Montreal,  and  thus  the  only 
remaining  account  of  the  expedition  was  that  prepared  hy  Manpiette. 

In  two  bark  canoes,  their  entire  outfit  a  stock  of  corn  and  dried  meat,  with  five 
Indian  attendants,  Jolliet  and  Manpiette,  on  the  17th  of  May,  1673,  started  from 
the  Mission  of  St.  Ignatius,  at  Michilimackinac,  for  the  exploration  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi. Coasting  along  \\\v  shore,  with  every  precaution  to  avoid  surprise,  they 
entered  and  went  up  Green  Ray,  and  ascended  the  Fox  Kiver  I'or  a  distance  of 
]()(>  miles  to  its  source,  in  a  level  prairie  flat,  hut  a  little  distance  from  the  springs 
of  the  Wiseonsin,  which  flowed  into  the  Great  "Waters  they  were  in  search  of. 
Having  carried  tlieir  canoes  over  the  narrow  portage,  they  continued  their  voyage 
down  the  shallow  river,  often  (piite  hid  from  sight  hy  the  growth  of  wild  oats, 
through  which  they  had  to  open  a  way  for  their  canoe,  as  one  would  through  the 
thicket.  As  they  descended  it  grow  broader,  and  dashed  about  among  reeds  and 
sandy  shoals.  About  IK)  leagues  below  its  source  they  found  what  they  took  to  be 
an  iron  mine;  and  somewhat  farther  on,  about  120  miles  below  the  portage,  on  the 
17th  of  June,  "with,"  says  Manpiette,  "a  joy  that  I  cannot  express,"  they  entered 
the  Mississippi  River.  Down  its  gentle  current  they  glided,  by  the  uniipie  t'lough 
varied  scenes,  with  countless  herds  of  bulliilo  and  deer  cmi  its  shores,  and  innumer- 
able fish  in  itvS  waters,  until,  in  some  ten  days,  for  the  first  time  since  they  left  the 
Lakes,  they  perceived  some  indications  of  humanity.  From  the  river-side  a  wind- 
ing footpath  led  ofi"  through  the  prairie;  following  this,  Jolliet  and  Marquette  soon 
came  to  an  Indian  village,  in  which  they  were  cordially  received,  and  which 
proved  to  be  of  the  Illinois,  the  very  peojde  among  Avhom  Father  Marquette  had 
so  long  desired  to  plant  a  mission.  They  strongly  urged  our  adventurers  not  to 
proceed  farther,  for  danger  would  encompass  them  on  every  side;  but,  nothing 
daunted,  again  they  embarked,  and  after  a  journey  southward  of  some  GO  miles, 


32 


SAILING  ON  THE  GREAT  LAKES. 


they  came  to  the  river  OniihonbiKini,  or  Oliio,  ;i  little  after  which  they  discovered 
what  they  HUjipowed  to  be  u  very  rich  iron  mine. 

Oil  tliev  Htiil  went,  thri)iigh  several  nations  of  liostile  IixliaiiH,  encountering 
dangers  of  every  kind,  until  they  eaine  among  the  Akanisea  or  Arkansas  Indians, 
nearly  where  De  Soto  had  breathed  his  last,  l.'JO  years  before.  From  this  tribe 
they  learned  they  were  only  ten  days'  journey  from  the  sea,  where  were  stationed 
traders  who  appeared  nmeli  like  themselves,  and  came  and  went  in  great  ships, 
.Judging  these  correctly  to  be  Spaniards,  our  travellers  were  in  doubt  whether  it 
would  bt  best  for  them  to  push  on  to  the  mouth  of  the  river  or  not.  They  had 
already  ascertained  for  a  certainty  tiuit  the  Mississippi  emptied,  not,  as  was  sup- 
posed, on  the  eastern  t<  ist  of  Virginia,  or  through  California  into  the  Western 
Ocean,  but  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  from  which  they  certainly  could  not  be  far; 
that  mouth  they  knew  to  be  held  by  the  Spaniards,  witii  whom  they  were  on  no 
friendly  terms.  Should  they  hapjien  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  these  Sjtaniards, 
they  could  anticipate  nothing  less  than  to  be  held  as  i)risoners,  since  not  only  were 
their  respective  countries  at  war,  but  that  the  results  of  their  explorations  might 
not  be  carried  back  to  tiie  French,  and  thus  induce  encroachments  on  the  territory 
lield  in  the  name  of  Spain.  Thinking  it  then  more  prudent  to  return,  that  the 
fruits  they  had  already  gathered  might  not  be  at  once  lost  by  an  eflbrt  to  grasp  too 
much,  on  the  17th  of  July  they  left  the  village  Akamsea,  and  commenced  pulling 
back  tiieir  canoes  up  the  Mississippi  current.  They  took,  on  returning,  however, 
a  diU'erent  course.  Having  ascended  the  Illinois  Kiver,  they  crossed  over  the  poi'- 
tage  to  the  Chicago  River,  and  thence  down  to  what  was  then  called  Lake  Illinois, 
but  which  lias  since  changed  its  name  to  Lake  Michigan,  Coasting  along  the 
shore,  they  returned  to  Green  Bay,  and  there,  at  the  Mission  of  St.  Franeis  Xavier, 
Father  Marquette,  on  account  of  the  enfeebled  and  shattered  state  of  his  health, 
spent  the  ensuing  winter  and  summer  of  1074. 

This  was  in  reality  the  first  exploration  of  the  Mississippi  Kiver.  Ferdinand 
De  Soto,  it  is  true,  generally  has  the  credit  of  having  first  discovered  it  as  early  as 
1541 ;  but,  in  the  first  place,  whatever  expeditions  he  made  were  for  the  jnirpose 
of  gain  and  plunder,  and  so  a  great  deal  that  would  have  demanded  the  notice  of 
one  with  more  liberal  and  unselfish  aims,  was  quite  passed  over  by  him ;  and  then 
the  accoimts  and  reports  of  his  travels  that  still  remain  are  of  such  an  unreliable 
character,  that  but  little  dependence  can  be  placed  in  them. 

In  accordance  with  his  promise  to  the  nations  on  the  Mississippi  Eiver,  Father 
Marquette  embarked,  in  the  month  of  November,  1674,  to  take  among  them 
another  journey,  more  exclusively  than  the  first,  of  a  religious  character.  Though 
detained  on  the  way  by  illness,  lie  reached  the  Illinois  nation,  on  the  Mississippi, 
and  commenced  a  mission  in  their  midst,  as  he  had  long  desired ;  but  he  was 


DISCOVERY  AND  SETTLEMENT  OF  MACKINAC. 


88 


o])lij;o(l,  tlio  following  spring,  on  account  of  his  declining  health,  to  commence  his 
rotiirn,  that  lie  niigiit,  if  porfriible,  die  where  some  Christian  hrotlicr  could  give  him 
an  appropriate  burial;  I)ut  in  tluH  he  was  <'.isappointed.  Jlis  health  and  Btrcngth 
continued  failing  rapidly,  until,  on  the  loth  of  May,  1075,  on  the  nhore  of  Lake 
Michigan,  just  within  the  mouth  of  a  little  river  that  hears  his  name,  he  was  lifted 
out  of  his  can  )e  and  j)laceo  under  a  shod  of  hark  and  twigs,  but  to  be  home  thence 
to  his  grave  on  an  eminence  overlooking  both  lake  and  river.  Subse<picntly,  the 
Kishabon  Indians,  once  of  the  mission  at  La  Pointe,  dug  up  and  unrolled  the  re- 
mains, and  dissecting  and  washing  the  bones,  according  to  their  custom,  put  theni 
neatly  into  a  box  of  birch  bark,  and  bore  them,  with  a  convoy  of  thirty  canoes,  to 
the  house  of  St.  Ignatius,  at  Michilimackinac,  where  they  were  interred  with  all 
due  ceremonies,  not  to  be  disturbed  again,  most  likely,  till  the  last  day. 

Discovery  and  Settlement  of  Mackinac. 

Old  Michilimackinac. 

First  visited  by  the  Courmrs  d£.Boif<  and  Jesuit  missionaries  in  1020. 

Permanent  settlement  in  1071,  by  Father  MAUtiUETTK,  an  eminent  .Jesuit  mis- 
sionary, who,  four  years  previous,  in  1007,  visited  the  iSaut  Ste.  Marie,  and  ex- 
tended his  journey  to  La  Pointe,  on  one  of  the  Apostle  Islands,  Lake  Superior, 
where  he  located  an  Indian  mission.  In  1009  he  came  to  Point  St.  Ignacc,  in  the 
Straits  of  Mackinac,  and  established  another  Indian  mission.  Two  years  there- 
after, he  located  a  mission  and  tra<ling-8tation  at  Old  Michilimackinac,  or  "  Pequo- 
tenonge"  of  the  Chippewa  dialect. 

"This  place  and  its  vicinity  is  the  mo'.t  noted  in  these  regions  for  the  abun- 
dance cf  its  fisheries ;  for,  according  to  the  Indian  saying, 'this  is  the  home  of 
the  fishes.'  Elsewhere,  although  they  jxist  in  large  numbers,  it  is  not  properly 
their  'home,'  which  is  in  the  neighborhood  of  Michilimackinac." 

Old  Michilimackinac  was  for  many  years  the  metropolis  of  the  Chii>pewa  and 
Ottawa  tribes  of  Indians,  the  country  being  claimed  by  the  French,  who  traded 
with  the  Indians,  it  being  the  principal  rendezvous  of  all  the  tribes  in  this 
part  of  the  country. 

The  Indians  remained  on  friendly  terms  with  the  French  until  1700,  when  the 
English  took  possession  of  the  country  after  the  capture  of  Quebec  and  capitula- 
tion of  the  French  forces  in  Canada. 

In  1701,  the  English  built  a  palisade  fort  at  Old  Michilimackinac,  and  traded 
with  the  Indians,  many  of  whom  were  very  hostile.  In  May,  1703,  the  garrison 
was  surprised,  and  most  of  them  massacred  by  the  Indians.  Out  of  twelve  Eng- 
lish posts  above  Montreal,  nine  were  similarly  surprised  and  captured  by  the 


84 


SAILING  ON  THE  GREAT  LAKES. 


combined  Indian  forces  under  the  celebrated  Indian  chief  Pontiac.  Niagara, 
Detroit,  and  Du  QucKne,  or  Pittsburgli,  alone  narrowly  escaped  a  similar  fate. 
After  the  above  massacft:,  Old  Michiliraackinac  was  abandoned  by  the  English, 
and  the  Island  of  Mackinac  selected  as  a  permanent  settlement  in  17G4. 

English  Accounts  of  Lake  Superior. 

The  earliest  Englisli  traveller  who  visited  the  shores  of  Lake  Superior,  of  whom 
we  have  any  account,  is  Alexander  Henry.  His  work  is  entitled  "Travels  and 
Adventures  in  Canada  and  the  Indian  Territories,  between  the  years  1760  and  1776, 
in  two  parts,  by  Alexander  Henry,  Esq."     New  York,  1809.     8vo. 

Henry  was  a  trader,  who,  soon  after  the  con([uest  of  Canada  by  the  English,  set 
out  on  a  trading  voyage  to  Fort  Mackinac.  He  arrived  there  while  the  fort  was 
in  possession  of  the  English  trooi)s,  and  was  present  when  the  dreadful  massacre 
of  the  wliole  garrison  v/as  ejected  by  the  Indians,  who  took  the  Ibrt  l)y  a  most  in- 
genious stratagem.  Henry  was  saved  by  being  suddenly,  and  most  unexpectedly, 
adop'cd  as  a  brother  by  one  of  iUe  conquering  Indians,  and  who  most  carefully 
guarded  him  from  harm  during  tiie  subsequent  carousals  of  the  Indians,  conceal- 
ing iiim  in  a  cave  on  the  opposite  island  —  Miehilinuickinac  —  the  place  now  called 
Mackinaw.  Referring  to  his  most  interesting  and  evidently  'ruthful  narrative  for 
an  account  of  his  voyages  and  ])erils,  and  for  his  general  description  of  the  country, 
I  shall  limit  myself  in  tliis  review  to  a  few  extracts  showing  the  amount  of  knowl- 
edge he  possessed  of  the  existence  of  copper,  and  other  metals  or  ores,  on  the  shores 
of  Lake  Superior.     Jle  says: 

"  On  the  19tli  of  August,  17C5,  we  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Ontonagon  River,  one 
of  the  largest  on  tiie  south  side  of  the  Lake,  At  the  mouth  was  an  Indian  vil- 
lage, and  three  leagues  above,  a  fall,  at  the  foot  of  which,  sturgeon,  at  this  season, 
were  obtained  so  abundant  that  a  month's  subsistence  for  a  regiment  could  be  taken 
in  a  few  ho'.u"s.  But  I  found  tliis  river  chiefly  ren)arkable  for  the  abundance  of 
virgin  copper  which  is  on  its  banks  and  in  its  neighborhood,  and  of  which  the 
reputation  is  at  present  more  generally  spread  than  it  was  at  the  time  of  my  first 
visit. 

"  The  attempts  which  were  shortly  after  made  to  work  the  mines  of  Lake  Superior 
to  advantage  will  very  soon  claim  a  place  among  the  facts  which  I  am  about  to 
describe. 

"  The  copper  presented  itself  to  the  eye  in  masses  of  various  weight.  The  Indians 
showed  me  one  of  twenty  pounds.  They  were  used  to  manufacture  this  metal  into 
spoons  and  bracelets  for  themselves.  In  the  perfect  state  in  which  they  found  it, 
it  required  nothing  but  to  beat  it  into  shape.  Tlie  '  Piwatie,'  or  Iron  River,  enters 
the  Lake  to  the  westward  of  the  Ontonagon,  and  hence,  as  is  pretended,  silver  was 
foun<l  while  the  country  was  in  the  possession  of  the  French. 

.  .  .  .  "On  my  way  back  to  Miehilimackinac  I  encamped  a  second  time  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Ontonagon  River,  and  now  took  the  opportunity  of  going  ten 
miles  up  the  river  with  Indian  guides.  The  object  for  w'lich  I  more  expressly 
went,  and  to  which  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  being  led,  was  a  mass  of  copper  of  the 
weiglit,  according  to  my  estimate,  of  no  less  than  Jive  <07i8."  [This  is  the  copper 
rock  now  on  the  ground  near  the  War  Department,  in  Washington.]     "Such  was 


NIAGARA   FRONTIER. 


85 


i 


its  pure  and  malleable  state,  that  with  an  axe  I  was  able  to  cut  off  a  portion  wcigh- 
iiii;  a  hundred  pounds^.  On  viewing  the  surrounding  surface,  I  conjectured  tluit  the 
iiiiisrf  at  H)nie  i)eriod  or  other  had  rolled  from  the  side  of  u  lofty  hill  which  rises 
at  its  back." 

.  .  .  ,  "The  same  year  [17(17]  T  chose  my  wintering  grounds  at  INIichipi- 
coten,  on  the  north  siiore  of  Lake  Superior, 

"At  Point  ^laniainse  the  beacii  ai^jcared  to  abound  in  mineral  substances,  and  I 
met  witii  a  vein  of  lead  ore  where  tlie  metal  abounded  in  cubic  crystals. 

"Still  coasting  along  the  Lake,  on  the  north  shore,  I  Ibund  several  veins  of  copper 
ore  of  tiiat  kind  which  the  miners  call  'gravore.'" 

Near  ^lichipieoten  Bay  lie  says  he  found  on  tiie  beach  several  pieces  of  virgin 
coi)per,  of  which  many  were  remarkable  for  their  form,  some  resembling  leaves  of 


vegetables,  dendritic  copper,  and  others,  uniiuals. 


Niagara  Frontier. 

An  interesting  and  instructive  address  upon  the  "Niagara  Frontier,"  was  recently 
W  read  before  the  Buffalo  Historical  Society  by  O.  H.  Marshall,  Esq.,  which  not  only 

embraced  sketches  of  the  early  history  of  the  frontier,  but  other  historical  facts  of 
great  interest.  To  M.  de  La  Salle,  the  intrepid  voyageur  and  discoverer  of  tlie 
mouth  of  the  Mississippi  River,  he  concedes  the  honor  of  being  the  first  European 
that  visited  the  Cataract  of  Niagara. 

On  the  6th  day  of  December,  1G78,  La  Salle,  in  his  brigantine  of  ten  ton<«, 
doubled  the  point  where  Fort  Niagara  now  stands,  and  anchored  in  the  slieltered 
waters  of  the  river.  The  prosecution  of  his  bold  enterprise  at  that  inclement  sea- 
son, involving  the  exploration  of  a  vast  and  unknown  country  in  vessels  built 
along  the  way,  indicates  the  indomitable  energy  and  self-reliance  of  the  discoverer, 
llis  crew  consisted  of  sixteen  persons,  under  the  immediate  command  of  Sieur  de 
la  Motte,  and  as  they  entered  the  noble  river  the  grateful  Franciscans  chanted  the 
"Te  .'Jeiaii  laudctmus"  "The  strains  of  that  ancient  hymn  of  ihe  church,"  says 
Mr.  Marsiiall,  "as  they  rose  from  the  deck  of  the  adventurous  bark  and  echoed 
from  shore  and  forest,  must  have  startled  the  watchlul  Seiiecas  with  the  unusual 
souikI  as  they  gazed  upon  their  strange  visitors.  Never  before  had  wliite  men 
ascended  the  river.  On  its  borders  the  wild  Indian  still  contended  for  sujiremacy 
with  tiie  scarcely  wilder  beasts  of  the  forest.  Dense  woods  Dv^'rhuiig  the  shore, 
except  at  the  site  of  the  present  fort  or  near  the  nnrta^^e  above,  where  a  i'evr  tem- 
porary cal)ins  slieltered  some  fishing  p'^'-tLaoi  t!ie  Senecas.  All  was  yet  primitive 
and  unexplored." 

La  Salle,  bf^vrever,  was  shortly  after  compelled,  through  the  jealousy  of  the 
savfi'^e.;,  lo  retreat,  and  no  regular  defensive  work  was  undertaken  until  1086,  when, 
on  the  representations  of  De  Nouville,  a  fort  was  built  and  garrisoned  by  one  hun- 
dred men.  But  the  next  season  the  fort  was  dismantled,  and  no  efforts  Avere  taken 
for  its  reconstruction  until  172r),  when,  by  consent  of  the  Iroquois,  Fort  Niagara 
was  commenced  in  stone,  and  finished  tlie  following  year. 

Sucii  is  in  brief  the  history  of  the  commencement  of  the  settlement  of  a  section 
of  country  whose  interest  is  enhanced  not  only  by  the  events  of  the  war  of  1812, 
but  by  the  possession  of  one  of  the  greatest  natural  curiosities  in  the  world.    The 


TT 


36 


SAILIXCJ    OX  THE  OllKAT   LAKES. 


history  of  the  origin  of  the  mime  is  own  more  curious.  The  stroain,  in  wlii(  li  La 
Siilli:  HiH'horcd,  lie  (':illcil  liy  its  Indian  iiumc,  Niii;^fai"i,  wiiicli  is  jicrliaps  the  oldest 
of  all  the  local  j^cofffapliieal  names  that  have  (U)iiie  down  to  us  from  tin;  Aboriginals. 
The  name  itsilf,  however,  seems  not  at  lirst  to  have  been  thus  writtiin  hy  tin;  laij;- 
lisli,  sinee  it  passed  throuf^li  almost  every  ])ossil)l(- alphahelifal  variation  lu'l'ore  itrt 
])rcsent  (jrthography  was  established.  TIh;  orii^inal  name,  as  jironouneed  hy  the 
neutral  nation,  was  Oa-yni-adh-m;  hy  the  Mohawks  Ni/(ih-(/(i-rah,  and  hy  the 
iSeneeas  Ni/dh-f/duh.  In  Kir)?  the  name  appeared  on  Samson's  map  of  Canada 
fipi;lled  Onijiarii;  and  in  lOS.S  it  madi-  its  lirst  apptaranee  as  jV/Ve/favt  on  Coronelli's 
map,  puiilislicd  in  I'aris.  IJut  this  final  spi'lliii^' was  not  reached  until  the  word, 
lis  l)r.  O'Calla^diaii  informs  us,  iiad  Ikcii  spelled  in  thirty-nine  dilii'ri'Ut  ways. 
The  word  itself  is  probably  dcsrived  from  the  ^lohawUs,  throuj,di  whom  the  Freneli 
liad  their  lirst  intercourse  with  the  Inxpiois.  'J"he  iMohawks  say  the  word  means 
"  lU'ck,"  in  .-dlusion  to  itseonnectinf^'  the  two  lakes.  And  this  leads  to  tln'  notinj,'  of 
an  exc.eedini^dy  curious  fact,  viz.,  that  the;  word  Niagara  Jias  no  referenci-  to  the 
Cataract  which  is  now  supposed  to  bear  theori^'injil  Indian  name.  The  term  had, 
In  the  minds  of  the  Indians,  reference  only  to  tin;  river  —  and  it  is  sometimes  ap- 
l)l:cd  by  the  early  historians  not  only  to  the  river,  but  to  a  defensive  work  and 
groups  of  Indian  cabins  which  stood  near  the  present  villa^;e  of  i.vv.i.-'lon.  Is'or, 
indeed,  docs  it  api)ear  that  those  tribes  dwelling  around  the  Falls  at  the  time  of 
the  discovery  kiu^w  them  by  any  distinctive  iiame.  The  first  liislorical  notice  of 
IS'iagara  l'"alls  ajipiars  in  the  journal  of  .)ac(pies  ( 'arlier,  who  states  that  the  Indians 
whom  lit!  met -in  the  Culf  of  St.  Lawrence  in  lo;;,"),  alluded,  in  their  dcscriiition  of 
the  interior,  mert'ly  to  a  "cataract  and  portage  at  the  exiremily  of  J^ake  (Ontario." 
Seventy-eight  years  afterwards,  Champlain  published  an  account  of  Ids  voyage  in 
Canada,  illustrated  by  a  map  of  the  country,  on  which  the  several  lakes,  as  far 
west  as  Lake  J  luron,  art;  laid  down  in  the  edition  of  Ki.'I'i,  though  in  a  very  errone- 
ous outline.  It  distinctly  shows  the  Kiver  Niagara,  interrupted  by  a  waterfall, 
and  iiiterse(;te<l  by  an  t;levation  of  land,  answering  to  the  mountain  ridg(;  at  Lewis- 
ton.  It  con,,  ".ns  no  specific!  name  for  the  cataract,  bnt«'ails  i(  SdiUd'niu,  or  water- 
fall. And  this  eircumslane(!  is  tin;  more  remarkable,  since  tin-  early  l''rcnch  ex- 
plorers were  very  partieid.ar  to  give  the  Indian  nanus  of  all  jjlaei'S  that  they 
visited.  After  the  discovery,  however,  the  Seiieeas  ajijiear  to  have  givt-n  it  the 
name  of  "  Ihl-tjah-Hhoh-xvx,^^  signifying  "the  j)Iace  of  the  1 1  igh  I'all."  "They  never," 
Bays  Mr.  Marshall,  "call  it  Niagara,  nor  by  any  similar  term,  neither  does  that 
word  signify  in  their  language  'thunders  of  waters,'  as  allirmed  by  Schoolcraft." 

Niaijavd,  is  a  word  of  Inxjuois  origin,  and  in  the  Mohawk  dialect  is  pronounced 
Nyagarah,  —  tlu;  orthography,  acctntnation  and  meaidng  of  which  are  variously 
given  by  diflerent  authors.  It  is  liighly  i>r()bal)le  that  this  diversity  might  be  ac- 
counted for  and  explained  hy  tracing  the  appellation  through  the  dialects  of  the 
several  tribes  of  aborigines  who  formerly  inhabited  the  neighboring  country. 

Niagara  River. 

"  Majestic  stream  I  what  river  rivals  thee, 
Thou  chUd  of  many  lakes,  ami  sire  of  one  — 
Lakes  tiiat  <'laim  kin<lrcd  with  the  Inland  Seas, — 
Large  ut  thy  birth  ua  wheu  thy  race  ia  run  I " 


INDIAN    UKLICS. 


87 


«i4i- 


INDIAN  RELICS. 

The  (lr;iwiii),'s  rcprcHcnt  two  An- 
cit'iil  lli'lics  IoiiikI  on  tlu!  hliuri;  of 
Lake  Siii)erior.  Tlu-y  consisted  of 
tliri'c  finely  f(»rnie(l  roppir  inslru- 
ineiits  for  war  purixises.  Tliey  Wore 
round  in  1S7I,  ne;<r  the  inontli  of  tlio 
liMke  SiiperiorSliiiiCanal,  eij;lilinilc',M 
al>ove  Ilonj^liton,  Itiin^  taken  from 
an  Indian  jrrave.  The  first  Ih  a  copper 
axe,  with  an  eye  for  a  handle,  which 
was  (hcaycd;  it  is  iiif^enionsly  pre- 
pared, with  a  eiirvalnre  to  admit  tlie 
wood  so  as  to  he  linn  and  necnre. 
The-  second  and  most  int<'restinf^  is  a 
hirj^e  copper  spear,  two  feet  in  ienj^th 
and  wei;,diin^  live  pounds,  witii  an 
oyo  for  llic  purpose  of  afTixinj,'  a  liandle.  It  shows  Ronio  slif^lit 
ineipialities  from  corrosion  and  wear.  The  third  is  :i  copper  knife, 
liftet-n  and  a  half  inches  lon^',  having  an  elongation  for  a  liandle 
of  wood,  weighing  one  pound. 

The  ahove  interesting  relics  are  in  the  possession  of  Isaac  Otis, 
JOscj.,  Supt.  of  the  construction  of  the  Portage  Lake  Ship  Canal. 

Ancient  relics  and  jiit-holes  have  also  heen  discovered  in  other 
parts  of  Keweenaw  Point,  showing  that  the  Indians,  or  native  in- 
hahitanls,  were  early  ac(piainted  with  the  value  of  copper,  hcing 
used  for  tools  and  warlike  purposes.  They,  in  fact,  became  early 
ac(piainted  with  tin;  existence  of  silver,  all  of  which  discoveries 
they  kept  secret  from  the  white  man  —  fearing  they  would  he  sacri- 
fici'd  hy  Kvil  Spirits,  if  the  place  of  deposit  was  divulged.  Many 
strange  tales  or  legends  are  in  existence  in  regard  to  these  Cojiper 
and  Silver  Mines. 

These  facts,  in  connection  with  the  early  discoveries  made  hy  the 
French  Jesuits  and  Traders,  go  to  show  that  for  several  hundred 
years  the  (Joj)per  Region  of  Lake  Superior  him  bccu  known  to  both 
natives  and  explorers. 


'feKll 


38 


BAILING  OX  THE  GREAT   LAKES. 


I 


Historical  Events  in  Chronological  Order. 

1641.  Fathers  Ttaymbault  and  Jogues  visit  Saut  Ste.  Marie,  and  establisli  a  mission 
among  tlie  C'liiitpowas. 

1044.  Iroquois  War  coninienccd  against  the  Ilurons  who  were  in  alliance  with  the 
French. 

lOoS.  Luke  Superior  visited  by  two  French  fur-traders, 

1000,  Father  Menard  visited  Lalce  Superior  and  attempted  to  plant  a  mission  on 
the  Houthern  slioro. 

1000-G7.  Pere  Cloude  Alloucz  visits  Lake  Superior  and  explores  its  shores,  discover- 
ing large  dej)()sits  of  copper, 

1GG8.  Father  Jauics  Marquette  visits  Saut  Ste,  Marie,  where  a  mission  was   estab- 
lished. 

1009.  Father  Jkiblon,  superior  of  the  mission,  erects  a  church  at  the  Saut,     This 
was  the  lirst  permanent  settlement  made  on  the  soil  of  Michigan. 
During  the  same  year  Father  Marquette  repaired  to  La  I'ointe,  situate<l  on 
one  of  tlie  Twelve  Apostle  Islands,  where  he  found  several  Indian  vil- 
lages, 

1670-71.  Pere  Dablon  visits  the  copper  mines  of  Lake  Superior, 

1070.  Father  Marquette  visits  the  Island  of  Miehilimackinac,   inhabited  by  the 
Huron  tril)e  of  Indians. 

1671.  Point  Iroquois  selected  by  Marquette  as  a  suitable  place  for  a  mission. 

During  the  same  year  a  Congresa  of  Nations  assembled  at  the  Saut  Ste.  Marie, 
attended  by  numerous  Indian  tribes,  and  St.  Lusson,  I'errot,  Alloucz,  and 
others  on  the  part  of  France,  A  cross  was  erected,  with  im])osiug  cere- 
monies, and  tile  Indians  were  informed  that  they  were  under  the  protec- 
tion of  the  French  king, 

1673.  Father  Marquette  and  Sieur  M.  JoUirt  started  from  the  mission  of  St,  Ignatius, 

at  Miehilimackinac,  on  the  17th  of  May,  for  the  exploration  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, and  entered  (Ireen  Bay  on  their  way  to  the  Wisconsin  liiver, 
Avhich  flowed  into  the  "  Great  Waters."  On  the  17th  of  .Tune  they  entered 
the  Mississippi  Kiver,  and  glided  down  its  gentle  current  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Arkansas  Kivcr,  returning  to  Green  Bay  at  the  close  of  the  same 
year, 

1674.  During  this  year  Marqnette  again  proceeded  to  the  ^Mississippi  and  visited 

the  Illinois  Nation,  intending  to  establisli  a  mission  in  their  midst,  but 
on  account  of  his  declining  health  returued  to  Lake  Michigan. 

1675.  May  loth,  Father  Marquette  died  on  the  east  shore  of  Lake  Michigan,  near 

the  mouth  of  a  river  which  bears  his  name. 


HISTORICAL   EVENTS. 


89 


1079, 


1680. 

16S2. 

1G87. 
1088. 
1095. 
1099. 

1750. 


1721. 


1756. 
17r)9. 
1700. 
17G1. 
17G3. 


1776. 

1780. 

1783. 
1795. 


Cavalier  etc  La  Salle  and  Hennepin,  the  journalist  of  the  expedition,  on  the 
7th  day  of  Aiigunt,  net  sail  on  the  waters  of  Laice  Erie  on  board  a  vessel 
named  the  Griflin,  bound  on  a  voyaj^e  of  discovery  to  tlie  Mississippi. 
They  arrived  at  Maclcinae  in  August,  and  in  September  sailed  for  Green 
Bay. 

Hennepin  dispatclied  to  discover  the  p-^urces  of  the  Mississipi)i. 

La  Salle  constructed  a  vessel  of  a  size  suitable  for  the  purpose  of  descending 
the  Mississippi  to  the  Gulf. 

La  Salle  was  assassinated  by  one  of  his  own  men. 

Baron  La  Iloutan  visited  Mielulimackinac. 

M.  de  La  Motte  Cadillac  eonunanded  at  tiiis  post. 

Cadillac  was  autiiorizod  to  establish  a  fort  at  Detroit,  Mich.  This  he  ac- 
complished in  17U1. 

The  French  established  a  military  post  at  the  Saut  Ste.  Marie,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  excluding  the  lOnglish,  as  far  as  possible,  from  obtaining  a  foot- 
hold on  Lake  Superior. 

Father  Charlfvinx,  the  liistorian  of  New  France,  visited  Mackinac.  From 
the  (hite  of  his  visit  down  to  1700,  when  it  j)assed  forever  out  of  tlie 
liands  of  the  French,  the  records  of  this  post  are  meagre  and  compara- 
tively devoid  of  interest,  although  advantageously  situated  for  trade  with 
the  Indians. 

"War  between  England  and  France. 

Quebec  captured  by  the  English,  and  Canada  surrendered. 

Old  Mackinac  and  all  the  French  forts  surrendered  to  the  English. 

Alexander  Ifcnrj/,  an  iMiglish  fur-trader,  visited  Mackinac. 

The  Indians  under  Ponliac  rise  against  the  English,  and  capture  the  fort  at 
Old  Mackinac,  nuirdering  the  garrison  in  cold  blood ;  killing  about  70 
men. 

The  Revolnlionar\j  War  commences  with  England. 

The  English  occupy  the  Jdand  of  Mackinac,  and  erect  a  government  house 
and  fnrt. 

Peace  made  with  England,  and  independence  acknowledged. 

The  British  give  up  Fort  Mackinac  to  the  Americans,  who  retained  posses- 
sion until  the  war  of  181*2,  when  it  was  taken  by  the  English,  and  again 
relinquislied  in  1815,  as  well  as  Saut  Ste.  Marie,  Mich. 


n 


11^' 


I 


PART  III. 


EARLY  NAVIGATION,  STEAMBOAT  TRAVELLING,  ETC. 

THE  .sailing  vessel  is  the  child  of  aiiti(|uity.  It  plays  an  important  part  in  the 
early  history  of  all  nations,  and  was  especially  at  home  in  the  old  valley  of 
the  Nile  and  on  the  broad  waters  of  the  Mediterranean  riea,  —  "  it  formed  the  primi- 
tive cradle  of  the  human  race."  Steamers  belong  exclusively  to  modern  limes  — 
they  represent  progress,  speculation  ami  haste,  "Man  is  the  god  of  the  steamboat; 
it,  depeiuirt  upon  him  for  its  every  movement.  The  sailing  vessel,  on  the  other 
liand,  relies  upon  its  good  genius,  that  mysterious  and  invisible  force  which  cornea 
from  on  high"  —  "the  wind  cometh  and  goeth  where  it  listeth,  but  no  one  knows 
the  course  thereof." 

Formerly  the  only  mode  of  conveyance  on  the  Lakes  and  Rivers  of  America 
was  by  means  of  the  Indian  bark  canoe,  or  the  bateau  and  Mackinac  boat  as 
constructed  by  the  early  French  voyageurs.  Then  came  sail-craft,  wafted  by  the 
winds,  and  barges,  towed  or  poled  along  the  shores  and  through  the  streams  by  the 
force  of  human  strength.  The  fur-traders  and  the  Jesuits,  in  search  of  discoveries, 
were  the  first  pale-faces  to  adopt  the  above  modes  of  navigation. 

Now  all  is  changed,  although  the  sail  vessel  for  a  time  came  into  common  use; 
but  with  the  introduction  of  steam-power  on  the  Hudson  River,  and  its  use  on  Lake 
Erie  in  1818,  then  the  steamer  Wulk-in-thc- Water  was  seen  ploughing  the  waters 
of  the  Iidand  Seas,  extending  lier  trips  through  Mackinac  Straits  toward  Green 
Bay  and  other  early  lake  ports.  This  period  culminated  in  the  construction  of 
magnilicent  floating  palaces,  which  were  usually  crowded  with  emigrants,  both 
native  and  foreign,  rushing  toward  the  Far  West. 

The  side-wheel  steamers,  from  the  period  of  their  introduction  till  about 
1860,  running  from  Buffalo  through  Lakes  Erie,  Huron  and  Michigan  to  Mil- 
waukee and  Chicago  were,  many  of  them,  first-class  vessels,  carrying  great  num- 
bers of  passengers  and  an  immense  amount  of  freight.  Then  the  Lake  travel 
was  in  its  glory.  The  steamers  running  from  Bufialo  to  Cleveland,  Toledo  and 
Detroit,  connecting  with  railroads,  were  truly  magnificent.  The  popular  com- 
manders were  then  almost  idolized  and  looked  upon  as  fresh-water  admirals  — 

40 


EARLY  NAVIGATION  — STEAMBOAT  TRAVELLING. 


41 


eacli  vicing  for  the  reputation  of  running  the  fastest  steamer.  This  strife  often 
ended  in  disasters  which  consigned  many  a  i)assenger  to  a  watery  grave. 

Steamboat  travelling  to  Lake  Superior  is  of  a  recent  date.  In  1855,  the  St. 
Mary's  Ship  Canal  was  finished,  and  immediately  the  travel  assumed  large  propor- 
tions, although  several  steamers  had  been  carried  over  the  portage  at  Sunt  Sto. 
Marie,  and  were  running  on  the  Lake  previous  to  the  canal  being  finished.  These 
steamers  were  the  Julia  Palmer,  Independence,*  Sam  Ward,  Manhattan,^'  ^lonti- 
cello,*  and  Peninsula.* 

Next  in  order  of  time  tlie  fleet  Iron  Horse  was  seen  dragging  its  ponderous  train 
ah)ng  the  shores  of  the  Great  Lakes,  giving  a  death-blow  to  the  comparatively  slow 
steamers  of  those  days  —  the  former  running  at  twice  the  speed  of  the  latter  con- 
veyance. Still  the  great  natru-al  channels  afforded  by  means  of  the  Lakes  and 
liiver  St.  Lawrence  were  not  totally  neglected,  and  gradually  the  steam  jiropeller 
was  successfully  introduced  —  now  carrying  passengers  and  freight,  at  a  cheap  rate, 
from  the  liead  of  Lake  Michigan  and  Lake  Superior  to  the  foot  of  Lake  Erie,  and 
by  means  of  the  Wclland  and  St.  Lawrence  Canals  to  ports  on  the  Lower  St. 
Lawrence  Kiver.  Sail  vessels,  of  a  large  class,  also  are  Tised  profitably  to  trans- 
port freight  of  difierent  kinds  on  many  of  the  American  rivers. 

The  agricidtural  and  mineral  products  of  the  United  States  have  assumed  such 
large  proportions,  that  large  fleets  of  propellers,  liarges  and  sail-vessels  will  always 
be  recpiired  to  aid  commerce  in  the  trans-shipment  of  produce  and  nuinufactured 
articles  to  domestic  and  foreign  ports. 

What  is  now  wanted  to  encourage  water  travel  is  swift  and  commodious 
Steamers,  built  in  a  safe  and  staunch  manner,  so  as  to  avoid  shipwreck  and  loss  of 
life,  carrying  passengers  and  freight  at  a  low  rate.  Then  will  they  successfully  com- 
pete with  railroads  during  the  season  of  navigation,  which  usually  lasts  for  seven 
or  eight  mouths.  Much  dei)cnds  upon  the  owners  and  conmianders  of  these 
steamers  in  order  to  make  them  a  success.  Let  floating-palaces  again  bo  built, 
and,  as  far  as  emigrant  and  pleasure  travel  is  concerned,  adopt  the  European  plan  to 
furnish  berths  and  meals  aside  froui  the  jiassage  money,  leaving  the  traveller  to 
economize  or  live  in  luxury  while  on  the  trip  around  the  Lakes,  or  from  point  to 
point. 

The  inducements  to  select  this  healthy  and  delightful  mode  of  conveyance  will 
last  as  long  as  water  runs,  —  for  while  the  land  aiul  cities  become  defiled,  it  is  im- 
jjossible  to  destroy  or  mar  the  grandeur  of  the  Great  Lakes  with  their  flowing 
fountains  of  i)ure  water.  Old  Ocean  and  Inland  Ocean  are  alike  above  man's 
control,  as  was  exemplified  by  Xerxes  in  ancient  times,  who  vainly  commanded 
the  ocean  to  recede. 


*:'! 


*  Wrecked  on  Lake  Superior. 


I 


42 


SAILING  ON  THE  OUEAT  LAKES. 


1  ' 


Navigation  of  Lake  Superior. 

"  Rc'twoon  tho  yojirs  ISOO  and  1810,  larf^e  hcIiooiuis  were  on  Lake  .Superior, 
engaged  in  the  Htjrvice  of  the  Jliidson's  IJay  and  Aim-riean  Fur  Companies.  A 
Hohuoner  ealitid  the  Jii'oiirry,  l)elonging  to  the  Jkitish  Nortli-western  Company, 
was  one  of  those  so  employed.  On  the  l)reaking  out  of  tlie  war,  gn'at  fears  were 
entertained  for  tiie  satety  and  preservation  of  this  vessel,  and  it  is  said  this  was 
iieeotnplislu'd  hy  stratagem,  in  one  of  the  de»'p,  narrow  hays  on  the  nortii-east 
end  of  Isle  Royale,  whieli  was  then  within  the  jurisdiction  of  the  liritisii,  this 
vessel  was  se(.Tete(l,  after  liaving  her  spars  taken  out.  Here,  entirely  covered  over 
with  boughs  of  trees  and  l>rush\v<iod,  siie  is  reported  to  iiave  lain  luitil  the  termi- 
nation of  hostilities  hctweeii  tiie  two  nations,  and  was  then  hroiight  out  from  her 
hiding  ))lace  and  again  put  in  commission.  Suhsi'(piently  she  was  run  (h)wn  the 
St.  .Marie  rapids,  and  placcil  in  tiie  Imnher  trade  on  Lake  iM-ie,  under  the  eonnnand 
of  (Japt.  Fellows.  Her  owner,  1  helieve,  was  Mv.  .Merwin,  of  (Jleveland.  The 
fragments  of  tlie  Recovery  were  for  a  long  time  visible  near  Fort  Erie,  opposite 
Bullido. 

"Another  schooner,  named  the  Minh\  was  also  one  of  those  on  I>ake  Superior 
previous  to  the  war.  Tliis  craft  was  also  hroiiglit  <lown  over  tiic  rapids,  and  was 
em|)ioyeil  in  the  general  trade  of  Lake  Frie  for  several  years,  under  the  command 
of  Tom  Hammond,  an  oliicer  who  served  in  Perry's  fleet.  This  vessel,  after  l)eing 
used  here  sometime,  was  linallysunk  in  Riviere  Uouge,  whicii  empties  into  Detroit 
Kiver,  a  few  miles  i)e!ow  Detroit,  where  her  fragments  rtinain.  .V  third  vessel, 
which  had  i)een  in  the  same  service  with  the  Itirnrrri/  and  Mink,  also  undertook  to 
pass  down  the  rapids,  hut  in  so  doing  struck  a  rock  and  went  to  i)ieees.  Her  name 
IS  not  given.  From  that  time  until  1822,  Lake  Supi'rior  was  navigated  only  l)y  a 
solitary  sail,  a  small  craft,  wiiicii  ;dso  passed  down  the  ra|)i<ls,  and  soon  hecame 
extinct  among  the  young  (ieet  tiicn  springing  into  existence  on  the  Lower  Lakes. 
Ii\  18.'>l  the  fur  business  revived,  and  orders  were  issued  by  the  American  Fur 
Company  for  the  conunission  of  ji  large  vessel  for  Lake  Superior.  To  Messrs. 
Ramsay  Oooks  ami  ().  Newl)erry,  of  Detroit,  were  given  the  management  of  the 
matter,  and  the  connnand,  when  ready  f"or  service,  entrusted  to  ('apt.  Cbaries  C. 
Stanard.  The  Ador  was  the  lirst  Aniericun  vessel  that  was  launched  upon  Lake 
Sii|terior. 

"  The  .'\stor  was  a  schooner  of  112  tons,  and  was  hnilt  by  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany, in  the  stunmer  of  18.'}").  Her  builder's  name  was  fr.  W.  .louts.  Her  frame 
timliers  and  planks  were  got  out  at  Charleston,  Ohio,  in  the  fall  of  1S.'54,  and  were 
Hhipi)ed  on  board  the  schooner  Bridgd  from  that  jilace,  in  April,  18.'{"),  and  arrived 
at  Saut  Ste.  Marie  on  the  1st  of  May.  The  timbers  were  then  carried  to  \\n\  head 
of  the  rapids,  where  the  Astor  was  built.  Her  keel  was  laid  on  the  17th  of  May, 
and  the  vessel  was  ready  to  launch  about  the  1st  of  August,  and  she  sailed  on  her 
first  voyage  on  the  loth  (tf  August,  on  her  upward  bound  trip  to  La  I'ointe.  On 
the  2(5th  of  August,  Caj>t.  Stananl  discovered  the  celebrated  rock,  which  hiis  since 
e.Ktuted  so  much  curiosity,  and  has  been  so  great  a  source  of  annoyance  to  the 
navigators  of  Lake  Superior.  ( 'ajit.  Stanard  did  not  go  to  it  at  that  time,  as  it  was 
near  night,  and  the  weather  thick  and  the  Lake  rough.  But  in  the  fall  of  that 
season  he  went  on  it.  When  lirst  discovered,  it  appeared  to  be  a  bateau  eajjsizcd, 
and  the  sea  breaking  over  it,  with  a  rough  Lake,  and  the  weather  ho  thick  that  he 
was  unable  to  make  out  what  it  was  until  within  half  a  mile. 


NAVIGATION  OF  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


43 


"Capt.  C'liark'H  C.  Stanard  saLlcd  the  Astor  until  tlie  cIohc  of  tlie  aeason  of  I,Sl2; 
nftiT  wliicli  time  liis  hrotlicr,  Capt.  Pxiijaiiilii  A.  StaiianI,  sailed  lur  until  slit; 
wi'iit  asiioiT  and  was  wrctked,  at  Cojiinr  ilarhor,  on  tin;  21st  of  SijiUinbir,  IS  11. 
>»o  lives  were  lost;  c;art,'o  mostly  s;ived.  At  the  time  of  the  K'^'^S  t'"-'  Astor  lay  at 
unclior  in  (Jopper  Harbor.  When  it  came  to  blow  very  hard,  her  cable  broke, 
ard  she  went  ashore.  Her  hull  is  still  to  be  seen  on  a  low  conglomerate  clill'  iu 
Co|»per  Harbor,  iiiunediately  south  of  the  entrance. 

"The  American  Fur  Comiiany  had  two  small  vessels  built,  of  about  20  tons  each, 
in  the  year  18137,  one  of  which  was  ho  poorly  constructed  that  it  was  never 
laiuiched.  The  other,  named  the  Ma/lnlinr,  was  sailed  by  ('aj>t.  Angus,  and  was 
employed  principally  in  the  lishing  trade — built  by  a  Frenchman.  In  IS.'W,  the 
same  Company  l)uill  the  schooner  \VUIiaiii  liirwHlcr,  of  73  tons.  She  was  launched 
Home  time  in  August,  and  sailed  in  Septt  inber,  ('apt.  John  Wood,  master.  In 
September,  1812,  the  American  I'^n-  ('om])Mny,  supjtosing  that  sIii'  would  rot  before 
Hhecoubl  pay  for  herself  on  Luke  Superior,  the  iJiewster  was  run  down  the  rajiids, 
and  subseiiueiitly  put  in  service  on  Lake  lOrie.  The  timbei-s  of  the  Jhewster  were 
got  out  at  Kuclid,  Ohio,  and  carried  up  above  the  Saut,  where  the  vessel  was  built. 
The  lleet  on  Lake  Superior,  jirevious  to  'he  opi'iung  of  the  ship  canal,  was  com- 
])osed  of  the  following:  —  Steamboat  .Jidia  I'almer,  2S()  tons;  I'ropeller  Indepiii- 
dence,  280  tons;  Schooner  Napoleon,  1 80  tons;  .VIgon(|uiti,  Swallow,  aiul  Mi  rchant, 
about  70  tons  each;  Uncle  Tom,  Chipjiewa,  Fur  Trader,  Siskowit,  10  tons;  and 
Wliite  Fish,  oO  tons." 


The  favorite  steamers  that  followed  on  the  opeinng  of  the  Ship  Canal,  and  now 
withdrawn  from  the  trade,  or  lost  by  shipwreck,  etc.,  were  the  .\rctic  No.  1,  Lady 
FIgin,  Illinois,  North  Star,  Iron  City,  Planet,  Lac  la  IJelle,  Pewabic,  North-west, 
Northern  Light,  Cohurn,  and  Meteor. 

The  popidar  steamers  and  i)ropeller3  at  present  running  (187.'})  from  Lake  Erie 
to  Lake  Superior,  are  Keweenaw,*  St.  Paul,  Arctic  No.  2,  Atlantic,  I'acilic 
and  Winslow. 

The  i'eerles.s,  and  two  other  steamers  running  from  Chicago  to  Diduth,  arc  also 
favorite  vessels. 

The  Canadian  steamers  rimning  from  Collingwood,  through  Georgian  Ray  and 
North  Channel,  to  Lake  Superior,  an;  theChicora,  Cumberland,  ,\lgoma  and  Fnuik 
Snuth.  The  Acadia,  Manitoba,  and  City  of  Montreal  run  from  Sarnia,  Can., 
to  Fort  William,  and  other  ports  on  the  Lake. 

Most  of  the  above  vessels  arc  proj)eIlers,  built  in  a  sid)stantial  manner,  and 
finished  off  for  the  accommodation  of  travellers  seeking  health  and  pleasure. 


*  The  Steamer  Kewkknaw  alone  bears  the  name  of  a  i)roiuinent  object  on  Lake 
Superior,  while  many  other  pronunent  ))oiuts  might  be  selected,  instead  of  giving  the 
names  of  empires,  cities,  or  individuals. 


Ill 


I 


♦ 


i 


44 


SAILIX(i   OX   THE  GREAT   LAKES. 


Tlio  increase  of  fitcamboat  tonnape  on  Lake  Superior  was  at  first  rather  slovr, 
but  soon  after  the  opening  of  tiiu  Lake  Superior  and  MinsisKippi  Railroad,  August, 
1S70,  tlic  tonnage  rapidly  increased  ;  and  now,  18715,  there  are  running  ten  Kteanurs 
from  IJuHido,  lOrie,  Clevehand,  and  Detroit;  five  from  Chicago  and  Milwaukee; 
four  from  Collingwood,  Can.,  and  three  from  Sarnia,  Can.  The  American  steamers 
(after  ))a.ssing  through  the  Ship  Canal)  run  along  the  South  shore  of  Lake  Superior 
to  Duluth;  while  the  Canadian  steamers  usually  run  along  the  Nortli  shore  to 
Silver  Islet  and  Fort  William,  or  Prince  Arthur's  Landing,  —  hero  connecting 
with  a  line  of  travel  to  Fort  Garry,  Manitoba. 

The  American  steamers  connect  with  the  Peninsula  Kailroad  of  Michigan,  and 
tlic  Manpiette,  Iloiighton  and  Ontonagon  Railroad  at  ^Marquette;  with  the  Wis- 
consin Central  at  Ashland  ;  and  with  the  Lake  Superior  and  Mississijipi  Kailroad, 
and  Northern  Pacific  Kailroad  at  Duluth,  Minnesota. 

With  an  increase  of  the  production,  and  the  utilization  of  coal  and  iron,  the 
civilized  world  will  command  a  power  tiiat  Jlcreules  never  conceived  of  in  ancient 
times.  It  is  in  fact  to  be  the  lever  that  will  give  an  ascendancy  to  national  Avealth 
and  power.  Already  is  commerce  enriched  by  the  shi[>ment  of  stores  of  these 
valuable  minerals  —  one  flowing  westward  and  the  other  eastward,  to  meet  the 
demands  of  trade  in  the  dilierent  sections  of  our  extended  country.  A  late  writer 
says,  when  speaking  of 

"Our  Coal  and  Iron  Wealth." 

"Mineral  ores  aboinid  in  almost  every  section  of  our  extended  country.  Every 
State  seems  to  have  its  representative  of  either  coal  or  iron.  The  most  important 
and  generally  distributed,  however,  is  iron,  and  to  estimate  the  amount  of  business 
involved  in  its  utilization  for  manufactures,  as  well  as  its  production  and  manip- 
ulation, is  impossible.  The  amount  of  capital  to-day  employed  in  the  iron  inter- 
est cannot  be  computed,  and  after  the  lalior  of  forty  years  has  been  devoted  to  its 
development  in  tiiis  coinitry,  it  still  appears  in  its  infancy,  and  vast  areas  of  that 
immense  field  of  iron  ore  extending  from  New  York  to  Alabama  are  coni|)aratively 
undisturbed.  Countless  millions  of  dollars  will  have  yet  to  l)e  invested  to  bring 
from  the  bowels  of  the  c^arth  its  hidden  treasures,  and  generations  to  come  will  be 
the  investors.  The  close  proximity  of  our  coal  fields  to  our  ore  deposits,  each 
facilitating  and  increasing  the  development  of  the  other,  promises  the  richest  re- 
turns to  those  investing  in  either. 

"  As  week  after  week  we  chronicle  the  continued  development  of  our  Western 
coal  and  iron  fields,  we  become  more  and  more  deeply  impressed  with  the  reality 
of  these  truths.  Every  day  brings  forth  some  new  enterprise  calling  in  the  aid  of 
cai)ital  and  mechanical  skill  to  keep  us  a  busy,  striving  and  wealthy  nation.  It 
does  not  appear  as  though  there  ever  could  be  a  scarcity  of  iron  in  this  country,  or 
oven  in  the  world,  as  is  threatened.  For  though  our  coal  and  iron  belts  are  so 
lightly  developed,  and  increased  facilities  for  mining  appear  from  day  to  day,  a 
contemporary  calculates  that  the  'number  of  persons  employed  in  the  primary 
production  of  iron  in  the  United  States  is  140,000  —  58,000  of  whom  work  in  rolling- 


COMMEUCE  OF  THE   LAKES. 


45 


mills ;  42,000  in  preparing  ore  and  fuel ;  25,000  in  preparing  fuel  for  rollitiR-inills ; 
12,oOU  ill  blast-fiiniiux'S,  and  2,"i()()  at  i'oviivx.  and  l)l()omerit's.  Add  tin."  HOO,U(JO 
enj^afri'd  i;i  inannfactiirin;^  artiidrs  of  iron,  and  we  have  a  total  of  *J-1(J,U()U. 

"  'Tlio  apjiroxiniate  value  of  the  pif^iron  manufactured  last  year  was  $75,000,000. 
Addin;,'  to  this  (he  product  of  the  roUiii^'-inills  and  forj^'cs,  the  amount  in 
S!l;)S,()(JO,()()0.  Adding  a^ain  tiie  value  of  articles  manufactured  of  iron,  and  the 
value  of  the  iron  manufacture  of  the  country  for  the  year  is  S000,000,000,  Of 
rails  we  produced  in  I80o  Init  87,000  tons,  and  in  1SG9  the  amount  hacl  risen  to 
6,S0,()()0  tons.  Of  steel  rails  we  laid  in  the  latter  year  TjO.OOO  tons,  lo,000  tons  of 
which  were  of  domestic  manufacture,  and  it  is  further  estimated  that  the  quantity 
of  steel  rails  laid  this  year  will  reach  150,000  tons.' 

"The  increase  in  consumption  of  iron  in  this  country  alone,  durinp  the  past  few 
years,  has  been  immense.  As  wood  I)ecomes  scarce,  iron  is  employed  in  the  manu- 
facture of  everything,  from  the  insi^'iuficant  iron  lifter  for  stove  covers  to  the 
beautiful  iron  front  for  building's.  The  increase  in  production  has  not  kept  pace 
with  this  increased  consumi)tion,  because  the  necessity  for  iron  was  not  felt  until 
the  surplus  stock  of  this  and  other  markets  had  been  exhausted."  —  Coal  and  Iron 
litcord. 

The  Lake  Superior  Iron  region  is  now  producinfjj  above  1,000,000  tons  of  this 
useful  metal,  which  nuist  rapidly  increase  as  railroad  and  slii[)i)ing  facilities  are 
aflbrded. 

The  product  of  Iron  alone  will  vastly  benefit  the  commerce  of  the  Great  Lakes, 
and  add  wealth  and  strength  to  the  nation. 


Commerce  of  the  Lakes. 

Keport  of  Vessels  of  all  classes  passing  Port  Huron,  Michigan,  and  through 
St.  Clair  and  Detroit  liivers,  during  the  season  of  navigation  for  1873. 


RECAPITULATIOX. 


Date 

April 

May 

.June 

July 

August 

September .... 

October 

November.... 
December.... 

Total 


IJart-'os. 


22 

760 
944 
1,090 
1,028 
891 
806 
243 


5,787 


Harks.      HriKH. 


322 
371 
351 
373 
358 
274 
93 


2,142     331 


48 
57 
53 
57 
52 
48 
16 


Selioon's. 


1,409 
1,526 
1,737 
1,908 
1,907 
1,643 
760 
3 


10,960 


Scows. 


2 

276 
521 

486 
313 
488 
432 
136 
4 


2,858 


Steamew.     Total. 


78 
1,959 
2,170 
2,402 
2,454 
2,377 
2  322 
]|311 

37 


15,110 


109 
4,774 
5,589 
6,119 
6,393 
6,073 
5,225 
2,559 
47 


37,188 


46 


SAILING   ON  THE  GREAT  LAKES. 


REMARKS. 


184  days,  average  one  vessel  every  ten  minutes;  and  during  the  most  busy  part  of 
tlie  season,  one  in  every  live  minutes. 

Note.  —  The  above  Lalte  Vessels,  it  is  estimated,  rarriod  during  tlie  season 
10,000,000  tons  of  freight,  and  many  thousand  passengers  to  and  from  the  porta 
on  tiie  Great  Lakes. 


Flow  of  Water  in  the  Rivers  forming  the  Outlet  to  the  Great  Lakes. 

During  tlie  past  few  years  observations  have  been  made,  under  the  direction  of 
the  Suporintendetit  of  the  Lake  Survey,  upon  the  flow  of  water  in  the  several 
rivers  which  connect  the  Great  Lakes  of  America.    The  following  are  the  results : 


.1! 

\  i  ' 


;!il 


BIVERS. 


St.  Mary 

St.  Clair 

Detroit 

Niagara 

St.  Lawrence 

lliver  navigation 

Kiver  and  Lake  navigation 


Lcnijth, 


05 
40 
27 
35 
7G0 

927 

2,800 


I)ci)th, 
Fuct. 


10  to  100 
20  to    ()0 
12  to    GO 

!Msix!iiiiiin 

velocity, 

inik's  pur 

hour. 


1..S0 
3.09 
2.71 
2.32 
1.00 


Pischar^'o, 
fiibii;  I'wl, 
per  second. 


100,783 
233,72(5 
236,000 
242,494 
319,943 


REMARKS. 

The  Eidargement  of  the  St.  Mary's  Ship  Canal  and  the  improvements  of  the  St. 
Clair  Flats,  affording,  as  proposed,  16  feet  of  water,  should  prevent  all  projects 
of  ever  bridging  the  above  great  outlet  to  tl  "'"'^n,  from  Lake  Huron  to  Lake 
Erie,  through  which  now  flows  the  unite''  rce  of  the  United  States  and 

Canada. 


(I! 


iii  iiiij 


LIST  OF  8TRAMKR8. 


47 


List  of  Steamers  in  the  Lake 

Befohe  and  hincf,  tiik  Opening  of  the  St. 

American  Steamers. 


Bfll.T. 

IS.'U) 
1843 
1847 


Nami;. 
Julia  I'iilniLT. 


1845 
1847 

1848 
1851 


1852 
1852 
1852 

1853 
1853 
1854 


1855 
1856 


1857 
1858 
1862 
1863 


Tons. 

280 

I  iuUjH'ii(ltiur 280 

Haul  Ward 450 

Manhattan 

Montifc'llo 

Napok'on 180 

Albany 

IVninsula 

Superior 507 

Baltimore 5(»0 

Qui'cn  Citv 1,000 

Arctic  No'.  1 867 

Lady  El^in 1,037 

Northerner 800 

Clcvchind 574 

Traveller 603 

Michifjan. 

Gen.  Tavloi- 

E.  K.  Collins 950 

Garden  Citv 

North  Star." 1,100 

Illinois 926 

Concord 

Iron  Citv 700 

Planet..'. 1,154 

Dubuque 

Comet 

City  of  Toledo 

Favorite 

Gazelle 

Queen  of  the  Lake 

'Sunbeam 

City  of  Cleveland 800 

Northern  Light 800 

Meteor 957 

Pewabic 960 


Hfll.T. 

1863 


1864 
1866 


isno 

186!) 
1870 
1871 
1871 
1871 


1872 


1S5G 
1860 
1862 


1864 


18G9 
1871 
1872 
1873 


Superior  Trade, 

Mary'h  Ship  Canal 

American  Steamers, 
Namk. 

Arctic  No,  2* 

Atlantic* 

Pacilic* 

Iron  Sides 

Lac  la  Helle 

North-west 

Sea  Bird 

City  of  Madison  t 

Cuyah()f,'at 

Ontona^'on  f 

Norman  t 

Miiieral   Rock  f 

Keweenaw  * 

St.  Paul* 

K.  G.  Coburn 

China 

India 

Ja])an 

St.  Louis 

Winslow  * 

Peerless  t 

Gunadian  Steaviers. 


IN  1855. 
Tons. 


Gore 

Plough  Boy 

Kescue 

Collingwood ■ 

Algoma  t 

W'aubuno J 

Manitoba  j 

Acadia  J 

Chicoral 

Cumberland  J 

Fraidv  Smith  J 

City  of  Montreal  J. 


1,200 

600 

487 

727 

682 

545 

719 

800 

1,000 

900 

1,240 

1,240 

1,240 

1,137 
1,275 


400 


416 
200 
450 

550 
418 
460 
300 


*  Sailing  from  Bulialo,  Cleveland  and  Detroit  to  Lake  Superior. 

t  Sailing  from  Chicago  and  Milwaukee  to  Lake  Superior. 

4  Sailing  from  Canadian  ports  to  Lake  Su])erior. 

^The  Chieora  was  built  in  Liverpool,  England,  in  1864,  for  a  blockade-runner,  sail- 
ing to  Charleston,  S.  C. ;  jnirchased  in  1807  by  Milloy  &  Co.  of  Toronto,  Can. ;  taken 
to  Quebec  and  cut  in  two  pieces  and  passed  through  the  St.  Lawrence  Canals  to 
Buffalo,  N.  Y,  Here  she  was  rebuilt  and  jmt  on  the  Collingwood  Line,  in  1869.  Her 
engines  ara  marine,  oscillating,  of  suj  .rior  workmanship,  alibrding  great  speed. 


' 


u  : 


'      frssy 


) 


48 


SAILING   ON  THE  GIIEAT   LAKES. 


Sailing  on  the  Lakes  —  Summe-'  Weather, 

Diiriiij;  tliemontliriof  Jinu',  July  aiul  Auf^iist  tlie  wciitlu  r  usually  is  calm  and  de- 
li^'litAd  on  tliu  Cireat  Lakes,  afiordiiig  i)lc;asiiral)le  sensalioiis  wliilo  sailiiij^  on  tlie 
upward  trip  luwurd  Laiie  SupL-rior,  the  "  uUiriM  Ikula"  of  the  seelveni  oi"  healtii  and 
pleasure. 

Start iuf^  from  liuiralo,  or  Cleveland,  the  tourist  passes  over  the  waters  of  Lake 
Erie,  entcriuf^  the  Detroit  liiver  at  Andiersihurfj^,  Can  where  is  a  flourishing^ 
town.  iL;r';  the  Chicago  and  Canailn  Southern  llaxlroad  crosses  the  river  to  the 
Miehigan  shore  by  means  of  a  steam  ferry.  Asecnding  this  beautiful  stream 
several  islands  are  paksed,  most!  ■  lying  on  the  West  or  American  shore,  where 
stands  Wyandotte,  a  flourishing  manufacturiiig  village.  Here  are  located  the  most 
extensive  Iron  Works  in  Miehigan  ;  also,  Copper  and  Silver  Smelling  Works, 

Before  arriving  at  Detroit  by  steamer.  Sandwich  and  Windsor  are  i)assed,  the 
latter  place  being  connected  with  Detroit  by  a  steara  ferry.  Here  terminates  the 
Great  Wentirn  Railway  of  Canada,  connecting  witli  the  Michigan  Ventral  Jiailroud, 
and  other  railroads  running  through  Miehigan, 

Tucvla;/,  July  1st,  1(S73, — After  suillring  from  the  heat  for  two  weeks  in  Chicago 
and  Detroit,  the  thermometer  ranging  from  SU°  to  '.)0°  Fahr,,  we  left  Detroit  on  board 
a  steamer  for  Saut  Ste,  Marie,  3G5  miles  distaiit,  passing  through  St.  Clair  River, 
Lake  Huron,  and  St.  Mary's  River.     TluTmoincter  standing  at  75''  Fahr, 

July  'Id  was  a  cloudy  <lay,  with  rain  on  the  St,  ('lair  River  aii<l  at  Port  Huron, 
situated  near  the  foot  of  Lake  Huron,  where  stands  Fort  (Jratiot, 

Jidy  M  was  a  delightful  clear  day  on  Lake  Huron,  with  a  moderate  southerly 
wind,  the  steamer  spreading  her  canvas  to  the  breeze.  The  Michigan  shore  con- 
stantly in  sight,  while  to  the  north  was  seen  nothing  but  the  waters  of  the  Lake. 
Thermometer  (i')°  Fahr,  during  the  middle  of  the  day,  growing  colder  in  the  even- 
ing, when  the  wind  veered  romid  toward  the  North.  When  off  Saginaw  Bay,  out 
of  sight  of  land,  the  Lake  presented  a  calm  Burface,  while  steamers  and  sail-vessels 
were  constantly  in  sight,  the  latter  being  wafted  on  their  course  by  a  light  wind. 

Friday,  July  \lh,  was  a  comfortable  day,  with  sunshine  and  rain,  the  thermometer 
varying  from  05°  to  70°  Fahr.  while  rtmning  on  St,  Mary's  River  toward  the 
Saut,  Here  is  to  be  seen  lovely  lake  and  river  scenery,  with  beautiful  wooded 
islands  lying  on  the  American  and  Canadian  shores.  The  healthy  and  bracing 
atmosphere  of  the  J/ike  region  is  here  felt  with  all  its  pleasant  sensations  of  delight 
during  the  summer  months.  Arrived  at  Saut  Ste.  Marie  at  10  A,  M.  Here  stands 
Fort  Brady,  garrisoned  by  United  Stat(!s  troojw,  wliile  the  national  flag  waves  over 
the  ground,  and  a  park  of  artillery  may  be  seen  near  the  water's  edge.  This  being 
the  anniversary  of  our  nation's  independence,  a  salute  of  thirty-seven  guns  was 


BUMMER  WEATHER. 


49 


on, 


;'()n- 

liikc. 

.'on- 

onl 


licter 


the 
lodi'd 
licing 
llight 

over 

was 


given  at  noon,  —  sendinj^  an  echo  to  tlic  opposite  side  of  the  river,  wlicre  may  he 
scL'ii  the  oml)lein  of  JOiij^'land's  glory  waving  on  tht;  Caiiadiaii  shori".  A  more 
delightful  <!;iy  could  not  l)o  desired  than  tiie  4lh  at  the  Saul,  wliile  to  tlie  south 
rain  and  thnnder-storins  ])revailed. 

Juli/ijlli.  —  Clear  c'ohl  day  at  Saut  S.o.  Marie,  Michigan,  situated  on  northern 
])Oun(lary  of  the  United  States  in  -hi"  oO'  north  latitude;  tiiermonieter  5(1"  Fahr., 
making  a  lire  desiraltle  in  sitting  rooms. 

Jalii  6tk.  —  Clear  pleasant  day  on  land;  tliermomctcr  G0°  Fahr.,  falling  to  r)5° 
on  Jjako  Superior  as  evening  approached.  The  Lake  was  uiiruliled  while  i)resent- 
ing  a  (lark-l)Iue  color,  the  waters  sparkling  with  purity  as  the  steamer  ploughed 
over  its  s\ir face.  In  the  far  (listan(!e  on  the  north  was  sei  n  Cnrihou  Island,  some 
thirty  miles  oilj  wliile  the  shores  of  the  Upper  Peninsula  of  Michigan  were  visihle 
from  White  h'ish  Point  to  Point  an  Saltle.  The  snn  went  down  in  grandeur,  prest^nt- 
ing  a  magnificent  view  from  the  deck  of  the  steamer.  Pass  the  Pictured  Kocks 
during  the  evening. 

Jiili/  nil,  —  Cool  rainy  day  in  Marqnettc,  the  thermometer  standing  at  00°  Fahr., 
which  is  considered  cold  for  the  sea.son  in  this  latitude,  vegetation  heing  mmsually 
backward.     Steamers  usually  arrive  and  dijiart  from  this  port  several  times  daily. 

Jiihj  Hlh,  —  Cool  i)leasant  day  at  Manpietti';   thermometer  02°  ]'ahr. 

Jiilij  ',)//(.  —  Cloudy  and  rainy  day  ;  thermometer  (J))"  J*'ahr.  At  this  lowtompora- 
ture  it  is  comfortahle  for  invalids,  while  the  lieallh-ins[iiring  air  tends  to  assi.st 
digestion,  and  causes  strangers  to  sleey)  as  soundly  as  infants. 

Jnlij  IO//i.  —  Cool  hracing  air  on  Lake  Superior  ;  thermometer  00°  Fahr.  This 
low  temperature  has  prevaihid  for  the  past  live  days,  renderiiig  a  lire  and  overcfiat 
almost  necessary  for  those  miacclimated  to  cold  wcathiT.  in  cool  weather  the 
Northern  Lights  often  assume  a  hrilliant  aspect  common  to  J.,ake  Superior. 

JuUj  Wth.  —  The  sun  rose  on  Keweenaw  Pay  with  an  unclouded  hrilliancy, 
which  ]>roved  to  he  a  delightful  <lay  ;  thermoineU  r  (iS°  Fidir.  at  no()n.  Thi.s  waa 
one  of  the  charnung  days  which  usually  i)revail  during  .Jidy  in  this  latitude. 

Juhf  Vlih.  —  Another  fme  day  for  the  Lake  Superior  region,  with  u  cloudless 
morning  and  a  refreshing  shower  in  the  evening;  tliermonuter  70°  Fahr. 

July  \'-'>th.  —  AV'arm  morning,  with  wind  iVom  the  South,  and  a  hazy  atmospliere, 
with  sunsliine  and  cloud  ;  thermonu'ter  80°  J''ahr.  At  4  V.  M.,  a  severe  rain-storm, 
with  tlumder  and  lightning,  visited  Mar(p;ette,  the  thermometer  falling  to  VO"  Fahr. 

.//(/(/  Wlh.  —  Sunshine,  cloud  and  rain  at  Manmette;  the  weather  assuming  the 
coquettish  character  connnon  to  l^ake  Superior  (uiring  the  sunnner  months,  when 
flyiu;^'  clouds  usually  scud  low,  giving  out  a  chilling  inlluence.     Then  (!0°  to  (i")°  F. 

./)(///  ir)</i,  —  Delightful  day  experien(!ed  during  a  trip  to  Fscanaha,  Delta  county, 
Michigan;  thermometer  7o°  ]''ahr.  At  this  place,  70  miles  south  of  Mar(iuette, 
the  weather  is  perceptihiv  warmer ;  at  the  former  phice  the  meai..iannmr  temp "ra- 
ture  is  iW^  Fahr.,  and  at  the  latter  place  02°  Fahr. 

,!u!ii  l(!//(.  —  The  day  was  iishcred  in  with  a  terrific  tlumdcr-storm,  tlie  rain 
jjouring  down  in  torrents,  causing  great  damage  to  the  railroad  track  and  the 
streets  in  Marquette;  thermometer  0')°  I-'ahr. 

Jiihj  Mill.  —  ('loiidy  morning,  with  clear,  warm  weather  at  noon,  the  thermometer 
ranging  from  70°  to  80°  Fahr.,  it  heing  one  of  the  hottest  davs  of  the  season. 
Jubj  IHlh,  thermometer  ',0°;  July  I'Mh,  tiu^rmometer  r>')°  ;  Juh/  i^th,  02°  Fahr. 

The  above  is  a  correct  statenu'ut  of  the  weather  usually  experienced  on  Lake 
Superior  during  the  months  of  July  and  August. 


li 


!  ■■  i 


\-  .1; 


l! 


50 


SAILING  ON  THE  GREAT  LAKES. 


Duluth — Lake  Superior. 


Tablk  showing  Dally  and  Monthly  Mean  of  Barometer  and  Tliermometcr,  and 
amount  of  Kainfall,  with  the  prevailing  direction  of  wind,  for  the  month  of  Julv, 
.1873,  at  Dvhvm,  Minn.,  N.  lat.  40°  48^ ;  W.  Ion.  92°  00^ 


Date. 

Mean  Daily 
JJaronictcr. 

Wind. 

Mean  Daily 
TlicriMoiuetcr 

Rainfall, 
Inches. 

•29 
•30 

'"•29 
'"•2{ 

*i-22 

•81 
•06 
1-57 
•92 
•08 
•21 

*  "•n 

"•80 

'"•53 
MO 

Remarks. 

July     1 

29-722 
29-832 
29-057 
29-737 
30-115 
30-032 
29-990 
30-020 
29-907 
30-OG2 
29-957 
29-720 
29-717 
29-957 
29-!)72 
29-602 
29-595 
29-975 
30-017 
30-010 
29-847 
29-808 
30-010 
29-770 
29-815 
29-952 
29-960 
29.790 
29-885 
29.920 
29-880 

N.W. 
NE. 

S.    \' 

S.Vv.' 

N.N.E. 

N.N.E. 

N.E. 

N.E. 

N.W. 

N.E. 

N.E. 

S. 

N. 
W. 

n.p:. 

N.E. 

w. 

N. 
N.W. 
N.E. 
S.W. 
S.W. 

N. 
N.E. 
N.W. 
N.E. 
N.E. 
N.E. 
N.W. 
N.E. 
N.E. 

04-5 
55-7 
71-5 
70-2 
59*5 
55  7 
58-7 
C3-0 
03^7 
60-5 
57-5 
04-2 
69-7 
69-7 
60-5 
61-0 
64-7 
62-2 
63-2 
66-5 
73-5 
76-2 
76-7 
63-5 
71-2 
66-5 
63-0 
63-0 
68-5 
60-0 
57-0 

Clear. 

Cle.nr. 

Cloudy. 

Clear. 

Clear. 

Ci-ar. 

Cloudy. 

Cloudy. 

Cloudy. 

Clear. 

Clear. 

Cloudy. 

Cloudy. 

Fair. 

Fair. 

Cloudy. 

Cloudy. 

Cloudy. 

Cloudy. 

Clear. 

Fair. 

Cloudy. 

Clear. 

Cloudy. 

Clear. 

Clear. 

Fair. 

Cloudy. 

Clear.' 

Cloudy. 

Cloudy. 

K            () 

"      3 

«      4 -: 

'<      5' 

"      6 

"      7 

«      8 

"      9 

«    10 

"    11 

«    i'>          

'<    13 

"    14 

"    15 

«    IG 

((         IT 

"     18 

«'     19. 

"    20 

"    01 

«    22 

"     '23 

"    24 

"    25 

«    20 

«    27 

"    28 

«    29 

«'    30 

"    31 

Monthly  mean  for  July  . 
Total  Kainfall  

64.5Fr. 

8-50 

Summer  Months, 

Mean  Temperature. 

"njtal  Rnin. 

June,    1872, 
July,        " 
August,  " 

59.6  Fahrenheit. 

G6.8 

68.1          " 

4.46  inches. 

5.83  " 

2.84  « 

Hean  Temperature G4.8 


13.13 


r, 
dy. 


PART  IV. 

MINERAL  REGION  OF  LAKE  SUPERIOR* 

THE  extent  ami  value  of  the  Mineral  Region  lying  on  the  South  and  Xorth 
shores  of  thiH  Inland  Sea  are  truly  astonishing,  when  we  take  into  virw  tlie 
different  rich  deposits  of  iron  ore,  copper,  and  silver,  as  found  to  exist  in  diderent 
localities. 

The  Iroii  Ber/ion  is  the  most  extensive,  commencing  at  the  Iron  Mountain,  12 
miles  west  of  Marquette;  and  extending  soutii  to  the  Menominee  River  and  north 
to  near  Keweenaw  Bay,  while  in  a  western  direction  it  stretches  past  Michiganime 
Lake  to  the  I'enoka  iron  range  in  Wisconsin,  lying  south  of  the  new  town  of 
Ashland  —  a  total  distance  of  about  150  miles.  Other  iron  deposits  exist  in 
Korthern  Minnesota  and  in  the  Province  of  Ontario,  Canada. 

As  you  mount  u\>  from  Escanaba  or  Marquette,  the  principal  outports  for  iron 
ore,  to  the  table  lands  surrounding  the  Iron  Mountain,  SOO  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  Lake,  you  are  surrounded  by  the  richest  deposit  of  iron  ore  in  the  world. 

The  Silver  licjion,  as  yet  known,  is  more  limited.  Virgin  silver  iis  well  as  mass 
copper  abounds  on  the  South  Sliore  in  the  Northern  Peninsula  of  Michigan,  also 
in  Minnesota  bordering  on  Lake  Superior;  but  by  far  the  richest  mines  have 
recently  been  discovered  and  worketl  on  the  North  Siiore,  or  Canada  side. 

Silver  hid  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  most  productive  mines  in  the  world,  yielding 
annually  about  one  million  dollars  of  the  precious  metal.  The  ore  is  obtained  by 
blasting  and  being  raised  100  or  200  feet  from  the  mine,  extending  under  the  bed 
of  the  Lake.  Other  mines  around  Thunder  Bay,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  Pigeon 
River,  are  attracting  mu.a  attention.  Xm<i  also  abounels  on  the  North  shore  of 
Lake  Superior  near  Black  Bay  and  Thunder  Bay. 

The  newly  discovered  Gold  Reyion  in  Canada,  lying  50  or  GO  miles  west  of  Prince 
Arthur's  Landing,  is  supposed  to  be  of  great  value,  as  Avell  as  the  region  in  the 
vicinity  of  Vermillion  Lake,  in  the  State  of  Minnesota.  Time  alone  is  wanted  to 
further  develop  this  Eldorado. 

The  Marquetle,  Houghton  and  Ontonagon  Railroad,  finished  to  Lake  Michiganime, 
32  miles,  thence  extends  to  L'Anse,  32  miles  farther,  will  branch  off  and  follow 
the  Iron  Range  into  the  State  of  Wisconsin,  there  connecting  with  other  railroads 
now  in   progress  of  construction.    Then  Ashland  will  be  added  to  the  shipiung 

porta  of  Lake  Superior, 

61 


'.•^?l 


I, -^ 


r,2 


SAILING  ON  THE  GREAT  LAKES. 


\ 


The  Copper  lierjion  in  Htill  more  extensive  and  scattered,  including  Keweenaw 
Point,  running  from  near  Copper  Harbor,  in  a  Houth-west  direction,  past  Hancock 
and  llougiiton  to  Rockland,  situated  hack  of  Ontonagon,  thence  westward  past  L;ike 
(i(jgehe(;  to  the  I'orcu[)ine  Mountains,  ;i  distance  of  al)out  one  hundred  niih;s.  The 
Calumet  and  Flecla  copper  mines  at  tiu!  present  time  are  the  most  productive. 

There  arc  also  deposits  of  copper  in  Nortlurn  Wisconsin,  Minnesota  and  on  Isle 
Royale,  attached  to  Micliigan.  The  Coi)per  Region  of  tiie  Nortii  Sliore  ise(pially 
e.xten(h'd,  running  from  Mamainse  J'oinl, opposite  White  l''ish  J'(jinl,  prist  St.  Ignaco 
and  TJiunder  Cape  to  the  mouth  of  I'igtKjn  Rive>',  a  distance  of  .'300  or  400  miles. 

First  Discovery  of  Iron  Ore  in  Marquette  County. 

Tlio  United  States  (ieologist,  Professor  Charles  T.  Jackson,  in  his  report  to  tlie 
Secretary  of  the  Interior  made  in  1.SI9,  says  tiiat  during  his  first  visit  to  Lake 
Superior,  in  tlie  sunnner  of  iSll,  he  obtained  from  a  trader  at  Saut  Ste.  Marie  a 
line  sj)eeimen  of  specular  iron  ore,  which  he  had  received  from  an  Indian  cluef. 
He  also  learned,  at  the  same  time,  tbat  this  chief  knew  of  a  mountain  mass  of  ore, 
Romewhere  between  the  head  of  Keweenaw  Bay  and  tlie  head-waters  of  tlie  Menom- 
inee River. 

It  is  not  more  than  twenty-eight  years  since  the  first  iron  ore  was  taken  from 
what  is  now  known  as  the  Jackson  Mountain,  and  less  tlian  half  a  ton  of  it  i)acked 
ii]»on  the  backs  of  half  breeds,  and  carried  to  tlie  mouth  of  the  Carp  River,  and 
from  thence  transported  in  canoes  to  the  St.  Mary's  River.  Yet  in  that  short  in- 
terval tiie  development  of  the  iron  mines  in  lliis  locality  has  been  so  rapid,  that 
tiiey  now  contribute  tlie  ores  from  which  is  made  about  one-fourth  of  all  the  iron 
manufactured  in  the  IJniied  States.  About  a  (piarter  of  a  century  ago,  the  district 
which  now  supplies  the  ore  for  ujiwardsof  one  hiuidred  and  fifty  furnaces,  and  which 
boasts  of  a  jxipulation  of  not  less  than  sixteen  thousand  ])eople,  was  an  iinexjilored 
wilderness,  never  penetrated  save  by  the  wild  Indian  and  devoted  missionary. 
Over  a  million  tons  of  this  ore  liave  been  shiitped  annually  for  the  past  few  years, 
and  ea(;li  succeeding  year  is  destined  to  increase  the  amount  in  a  rapid  ratio;  and 
yet  the  Lake  Superior  Iron  District  is  but  in  its  infancy,  and  only  needs  to  be  fully 
developed  to  become  the  great  iron  centre;  of  the  North-west,  and  of  the  Union. 

The  Jackson  (/'omjiany  was  organi'/x-d  in  June,  184/),  with  a  view  to  ojierations 
in  the  Copjier  District,  and  P.  M.  Kverett,  Esq.,  one  of  the  original  incorporators, 
dime  to  Lake  Sujierior  (he  same  sunnner,  .-ukI  located  what  is  now  the  .Jackson 
iron  Mine,  under  a  permit  from  tin;  Secretary  of  War,  To  Mr.  Kverett  is  due  the 
credit  of  being  the  pioneer  in  the  discovery  and  development  of  the  Lake  Superior 
Iron  MincH.  Others  may  have  visited  th^  Jackson  Mountain  about  the  Paine  time 
hut  there  in  no  evidence  that  any  of  them  discovered  the  existence  of  its  hidden 
treasures. 


■  a 


IRON   DISTRICT. 


58 


;  and 

fully 

Kin. 

ationrt 
■atcjrH, 
ckHon 

lue  tlie 


po 


nor 


liriio, 


IlK 


Idea 


The  first  npenlnf^  in  tlio  Iron  District  was  made  hy  tlic  .Taftkson  Company  in  the 
fall  of  18l(>,  in  the  Kummer  of  whidi  year  they  eomineneed  tl»e  ereelion  of  a  forfje 
on  (Jarp  itiver,  ahout  tliree  miles  east  of  Xef,'aiinee.  The  for^'e  was  put  in  ojHra- 
ti<ju  in  tlie  Ki)ring  of  1847,  and  the  first  ore  mined  at  tlie  Jaeiison  was  tiiere  niami- 
faetured  into  blooms.  The  first  hlooms  were  sold  to  K.  H.  Ward,  Kh<\.,  and  from 
them  was  made  the  walking,'  heain  of  tiie  steamboat  "()(:can."  i''i)r  fiirtiicr  infor- 
mation, see  second  edition  "  Jli.^tory  (>(  tlie  J^ake  .Superior  iron  JJistrict." 

Classification  of  the  Iron  Ores. 

The  most  valuable,  so  far  as  developed,  is  the  upmdnr  hnnntilr,  which  is  a  very 
jMire  anhydrous  sesrpiioxide,  giving,'  a  red  j)owd(;r,  ;uid  yieldinj^'  in  tlie  blast-fur- 
nace from  GO  to  70  per  cent,  of  metallic  iron.  The  ore  occurw  both  slaty  and 
granular,  or  massive. 

The  next  in  order  of  im])ortance  is  tlie  Kuft  or  hrown  hrrn'Me,  which  mucli  re- 
Beml)lc8  the  hematite  of  Pennsylvania  and  Conneoti'  iit.  Th"  ore  is  generally 
found  associated  with  the  harder  ores,  from  which  r.any  hi •  -pose  it  is  formed  by 
p.'irtial  decomposition  or  disintegration. 

The  marjndic  ore  of  the;  district  has  thus  far  only  beer  found  to  the  west  of  the 
other  ores  —  at  the  WM.diingt(ju,  JOdwards  and  (,'lianipi(in  Mines  —  at  which  none 
of  tlio  other  varieties  have  been  found,  except  the  spticular,  into  which  the  mag- 
netic sometimes  passes,  the  powder  being  from  black  to  purple,  then  reil. 

'V\n',  Jldfj  ore  is  a  slaty  or  schistose  silicious  hematite,  containing  rather  less 
metallic  iron,  and  of  more  diflicult  reduction  than  either  of  the  varieties  above 
named. 

Michigammo  Iron  Distiict. 

Work  has  already  actively  eomineneed  at  the  Michigammc  mine,  and  consider- 
able ore  shipp('(!  from  it  ati<l  the  Sjmrr  Mountain  the  presc.'iit  st:ason  (187J}).  The 
following  descrii)tioii  of  this  range  possess(;s  interest  at  this  time  : 

"  In  the  fidl  of  ISti.S  attention  was  directed  to  this  range,  and  what  is  now  known 
as  the  Spiirr  Mountain  was  dis(;ovcrcd,  or  rather,  I  should  say,  rediscovered,  on  the 
north  half  of  the  south-west  <piarter  of  section  twenty-four,  town  forty-eight,  norih 
of  range  thirty-one  west.  There  is  a  large  outcrop  of  pure  magnetic  ore  (the 
largest  I  ever  saw  of  this  kind  of  or<')  occurring  in  an  east  and  w«'st  ridge  one  hun- 
dred and  eighteen  feet  above  the  surface  of  Michigamme  Lake.  The  din ction  of 
the  bijd  is  due  east  and  west,  dipping  to  the  south  at  a  high  angle,  it  presents  a 
thickness  of  thirty  feet  of  first  (piality  of  lutrchantable  ore,  and  facilities  for  com- 
mencing to  mine  which  I  have  never  seen  siirpiissed.  The  (ixposure  along  the 
range  is  short,  owing  to  the  covering  of  i^arlh,  but  the  iiiagiietic  attractions,  which 
are  very  strong,  continue  east  ami  west  for  a  long  tlistaiice,  determining  the  position 
of  the  range  with  great  precision.  This  ore  is  of  the  same  character  as  the  mag- 
netic; ore  of  the  Champion  and  Washington  mines,  diflering  only  in  being  softer 
from  the  cllectH  of  the  weather.    A  specimen  collected  for  unalyHia  in  Uctober, 


Ml 


III 


r 


54 


SAILING  ON  THE  GREAT  LAKES. 


1868,  by  breaking  indiscriminately  numerous  fragments  from  all  parts  of  the  out- 
crop, and  from  the  loose  masses,  with  the  view  of  obtaining  a  safe  average,  afforded 
Dr.  C.  F.  Chandler,  of  the  School  of  Mines,  New  York,  the  following  constituents : 

Per  cent. 

Oxide  of  iron 89-21 

Pure  metallic  iron  64*60 

Oxygen  with  the  iron  24*61 

<)xide  of  manganese,  a  trace. 

Alumina  2*67 

Lime 0*67 

Magnesia 0"19 

Silica 6*28 

Phosphoric  acid,  a  trace. 

Sulphur '35 

99-37 

"  The  percentage  of  iron  given,  I  am  confident,  is  not  above  what  will  be  ob- 
tained by  working  the  ore  in  the  furnace,  if  mined  with  ordinary  care.  In  rich- 
ness it  is  imquestionaljly  first  class. 

"On  the  north  side  of  Spurr  Mountain  deposit  is  the  well  known  'mixed  ore* 
of  the  Marquette  region,  which  Ls  invariably  found  associated  with  the  pure  ores. 
It  is  a  banded  rock  of  pare  ore  and  quartz  (white  or  red),  and  is  usually  most 
abundant  at  the  Inise  of  the  formation.  Tliis  material  is  seen  in  great  abundance 
at  all  the  old  mines,  the  best  exposure  being  at  the  Cleveland  Knob,  where  there 
is  a  small  mountain  of  'mixed  ore'  with  pure  ore  tlanking  it  on  either  side.  Still 
farther  north,  and  therefore  geologically  below  the  Spurr  Mountain  deposit  (for  the 
whiile  series  dips  soutIi),is  a  thick  l)ed  of  greenstone  or  diorite,  being  the  same 
rock  which  underlies  all  the  workable  deposits  of  hard  ore  in  the  Manpiette  region, 
and  wliicli  is  conspicuous  at  the  Lake  Superior,  Jackson  and  Champion  mines. 
At  the  Spurr  Mountain  this  greenstone  rises  into  a  bold  ridge,  which  can  be  traced 
for  miles  east  and  west,  always  on  the  nortli  side  of  and  parallel  with  the  iron 
belt.  Passing  to  the  south,  hence  hanging  wall  side  of  the  deposit,  we  find  the 
same  quartzite  overlying  the  ore  which  is  found  at  all  the  old  mines,  and  wliich  is 
so  conspicuous  at  the  New  York  and  Cleveland,  where  it  dips  to  the  south  just  as 
at  the  Spurr  Mountain.  Tlie  perpendicular  distance  from  the  underlying  green- 
stone to  the  overlying  quartzite,  wliich  would  represent  the  thickness  of  the  entire 
iron  formation,  is  two  hundred  feet,  as  near  as  can  be  made  out;  which  is  made  up 
of  jiure  ore,  '  mixed  ore,'  and,  usually,  in  jtart  of  a  magnesian  schist,  such  as  occurs 
in  abundance  at  the  west  end  of  the  Champion  mine,  aa  well  as  at  the  older 
mines." 

Fenoka  Iron  Range  in  Ashland  County,  Wisconsin. 

A  late  writer  says :  —  "I  have  had  examined  a  large  number  of  iron  deposits  in 
Michigan,  Wisconsin,  Mississippi,  Kansas  and  Iowa.  We  foimd  large  beds  of 
specular,  hematite  and  other  valuable  ores.  But  in  all  our  investigations  we  found 
no  beds  of  ore  so  good  as  the  Pcnoka  Range. 

"  I  sent  one  good  geologist,  one  chemist  and  three  axe-men,  who  Rj)ent  two  weeks 
in  tracing  and  examining  that  range.  Tlie  result  of  the  expedition  was  entirely 
satisfactory.    There  is  an  unlimited  supply  of  tine  magnetic  ore,  the  surface  speci- 


EXTENT  OF  THE  IRON  MINES. 


65 


•on 

the 

is 

a3 

'cn- 


)und 


peci- 


mens  of  which  closely  rcsemhle  the  first  Swedish  ores,  from  which  the  best  and 
finest  steel  is  made.    The  analysis  gives  from  fifty  to  suvonty-fivc  per  cent  of  iron. 

"It  is  my  ojnnion  that  the  ore  from  this  range  will  be  highly  valuable  for  mix- 
ing with  tl>e  specular  ores  of  Marquette. 

"  I  am  very  anxious  to  have  tiiese  ores  brought  to  market,  as  I  can  use  with  ad- 
vantage several  thousand  tons  annually. 

"  I  liope  you  may  induce  capitalists  to  take  hold  of  this  most  valuable  deposit 
and  develop  it  for  the  good  of  this  country.  The  Eange  is  not  less  than  twelve 
miles  long,  and  will  yield  ore  enough  to  span  tiic  world  witli  railroads.  1  have 
had  analysis  made  of  a  fine  specimen  of  Swedish  ore,  and  the  ore  of  your  Range 
is  richer  than  the  Swedish  by  about  10  per  cent.  There  is  no  doubt  but  your  ore 
will  make  as  good  cutting  steel  as  any  made  in  the  world. 

"Kespectfully  yours,  E.  B.  W." 

Extent  of  the  Lake  Superior  Iron  Mines. 

Since  the  opening  of  the  Jackson  Mine  in  184G,  developments  have  gradually 
extended  westward  toward  Lake  Michigamme,  about  20  miles  west  of  Negaunee. 
On  all  sides  of  Lake  Michigamme  —  north,  south  and  west  —  and  on  the  Menom- 
inee Rivei",  southward,  immense  deposits  have  been  discovered,  compared  to  which 
the  famous  "  Iron  Mountain  "  of  Missouri  sinks  into  insignificance. 

The  Future  Iron  Centre. 

"  The  manufiicture  of  iron,  or  the  proper  place  for  its  manufacture,  in  order  to 
enable  this  country  to  hold  its  place  among  nations,  in  view  of  the  threatened  re- 
duction of  the  tariif,  leads  tlie  Minimj  Journal  to  consider  wiiat  most  vitally  concerns 
our  own  home  interests.  Our  main  interests  are  in  iron,  —  in  the  hills,  in  the 
mined  ores,  and  in  the  products  of  iron.  Without  it,  we  are  of  small  account; 
with  it,  and  witii  the  care  taken  of  it  that  the  situation  demands  and  makes  impera- 
tive, we  are  peer  of  all.  Weof  the  Lake  Superior  Iron  District  have  the  iron  ore, 
and  the  fuel  in  juxtaposition  to  convert  it  into  merchantable  forms,  and  the  manu- 
facturing as  well  as  the  mining  nuist  hereafter  be  done  in  this  2)art  of  the  country. 
In  the  matter  of  the  fuel  we  have  only  to  say  that  our  forests  of  hard  wood  have 
hardly  been  touched,  and  peat  beds,  in  embryo,  promise  everything  asked  of  them 
for  the  future  ;  and  when  it  becomes  necessary,  in  tlie  course  of  the  next  decade,  to 
make  the  balance  of  lake  freights  lieavier  from  the  East  than  to  the  West,  we  can 
load  the  lake  crafts  with  coal  to  smelt  our  ores  at  home. 

"At  present,  by  far  the  greater  portion  of  our  iron  ore  is  shipped  to  the  furnaces  of 
Ohio  and  Pennsylvania.  This  ore  is  loaded  witii  a  percentage  of  from  3o  to  40  i)er 
cent,  of  waste  material,  on  wiiicli  tlie  same  freight  must  be  paid  as  on  the  metallic 
iron.  From  tliese  furnaces  and  rolling-mills  the  manufactured  iron  is  shipped  to  its 
various  markets,  some  of  it  being  returned  to  tlie  j»lace  from  which  it  started  in  the 
raw  state,  and  the  only  reason  given  for  not  manufacturing  our  own  iron,  is  the 
want  of  fuel  and  our  inability  to  procure  it.  We  will  reverse  the  proposition. 
Suppose  that  Ohio  and  Pennsylvania  furnaces  were  obliged  to  depend  upon  their 
own  home  supplies  for  ore?  That  they  have  enougli  of  it  is  true;  that  the  quality 
is  not  good  enough  to  make  merchantable  iron  is  ecpially  true.  Dei)ending  upon 
the  Lake  Superior  district  for  their  supply  of  ores  to  mix  with  their  own  in  order 
to  l)ring  their  iron  to  a  grade  which  would  command  a  sale  in  an  open  market, 
tlit^  are  obliged  to  pay  double  freight  on  the  raw  material.    It  would  not  matter 


i      If 


I 


I ' 


66 


SAILING  ON  THE  GUEAT  LAKES. 


so  much  witli  the  furnaces  in  Oliio  and  Ponnsylvimia  at  the  present  time,  if  they 
weri' only  slmlting  clown  temporarily.  The  oullook  for  them  is  nut  a  good  one, 
i.  e.  for  the  future  exclu!*ive  control  of  the  iron  trade  of  the  country.  Our  rail- 
road communications  now  openinsjc  will  give  uh,  when  completed,  an  e(pial  chance 
for  the  great  Western  markets.  We  can  ship  to  the  sealtuard  during  the  season  of 
navigation  at  nearly  as  low  rates  as  the  Pittsljurgh  nianul'acturers  —  anil  that 
Manpiette  cotmty  wil!  ultimately  become  the  grand  iron  mamifacturing  centre 
of  the  United  iStates,  is  u  question  tliat  admits  of  scarcely  a  doubt." 

Iron  Mining  Companies, 

Situated  in  the  Counties  of  Marquette,  Houghton  and  Menominee. 


Name. 


Kind  of  Ore. 


T.  N.  R.W 


Ada 

Albion* 

Allen  t 

American  J 

Bagaley  t 

Barnum  t 

BereaJ  

Breitung 

lireen  and  Ingalls  f 

Buckeye 

Burt  .". 

Calhoun  and  Si)urr 

Canon  

Carrt 

Cascade  I  

Champion  * 

Chippewa 

Cleveland  *t 

Edwards* 

Imuuui  J  

I']mi)ire  

Everett* 

Excelsior  t 

FallRiver+ 

Fosterf 

Franklin* 

Goodrich! 

Grand  Central  |  ... 

Green  Bayf 

Gribbenf 

Harlow  * 

Harney  |  


HeuuUite . 


Hematite  

Hard  Hematite 


j  Hematite. 
Hematite  ■ 


(rranularand  Hematite  

Magnetic  and  Specular 

Magnetic  and  .Si)ecular 

Bed  Specular  and  Graiudar 

Magnetic  and  Specular 

Hard  Hematite 


47 
47 
47 

47 
47 

48 

47 
47 
47 
47 
47 
47 
i47 
47 
47 
48 


Hematite. 


!  Hard  and  Soft  Hematite 

Hematite 

Bed  Specular 


47 
47 
47 

47 


2G 
27 
2G 

26 


29 
28 
30 

2G 
30 
2G 
30 
29 
30 
27 
28 
2G 
30 


Location. 


2G 
2(5 
26 


Negaunee. 

Stoneville. 

Negaunee. 

Micbigamnie. 

Negaunee. 

Ishpeming. 

Michigamme. 

Menominee  co. 
Cliampion. 

Negaiuiee. 


Champion. 
Humboldt. 
Ishpeming. 
Humboldt, 
Negaunee. 

nuniI)oldt. 
Ishpeming, 
L'Ansc. 
Negaunee. 

Stoneville. 
Negaunee. 

(( 

Marqnette. 
Michigamme. 


*  Shipped  from  Marquette.  f  Shipped  from  Escanaba,  Delta  co. 

X  Shipped  from  L'Anse,  Houghton  co. 


IRON  MINING  COMPANIES. 


57 


Iron  Mining  Companies.  —  {Continued.) 


Name. 

Hirarod* 

Home 

Howell  Iloppock  f 

Ilungeiford 

Ilussey 

Iron  Clittsf  

Iron  Kinfif  J 

Iron  Mountain 

Jackt^on  f 

Jcfturson 

Keystone* 

Kloman* 

Lake  Anfreline  *f.. 
Lake  Superior*  ... 

MeComber*! 

Mai^netio 

Manjuette* 

Matlier 

Mieiiigannne  J 

Miehigan 

Negaunee 

New  iMigland 

New  York  f 

Parsons 

Pendill 

Pioneer 

Pittsburgh  and  L. 

Superior! 

Quartz 

Quinesaik 

Ked  Chalk  t 

Republic* 

Riverside 

Rolling  Mill  t 

Rowland!  

Saginaw  f 

Sheiuon  

Shenango* 

Smitht 

Spurr  Mountain  J .. 

Stewart  J  

Tavlort 

Teal  Lake  

Washington* 

Winthrop*f 


Kind  of  Oke. 


T.N.  R.W 


Hematite 


Hard  Hematite 
Hematite 


47 
47 
47 
47 


26 
26 
27 
20 


47    27 
(iranular  and  Hematite  !  47    27 


Hematite  and  Specular 

Soft  Hematite  and  Specular 

Soft  Hematite 

I'lack  Magnetic 

Red  Specular 


Magnetic  . 


Hard  Hematite 

Hematite  and  S[)ecular. 
Hard  Specular 


Magnetic  and  Specidar. 

Hematite 

Red  Specular 


Specular  and  Hematite. 
Magnetic 


Magnetic  and  Specular. 
Hard  Ore 


47  I  29 
46:29 
47    26 


47 
47 
47 

47 

48 
47 
47 
47 
47 


47 
47 


27 
26 
80 
27 

30 

28 
26 


27 
26 


40130 


46 
47 
47 
47 
47 
48 
47 
45 
48 
48 

48 
47 
47 


29 
30 
26 
26 
27 
31 
27 
25 
31 
31 

26 

29 

27 


Location. 


Negaunee. 

Ishpeming. 

Negaunee. 

Micliigamme. 

Ishi)eining. 

Negaunee. 
« 

Champion. 
IIum])oldt. 
Ishpeming. 

Negaunee. 

Ishpeming. 

Negaunee. 

^lichigannne. 
Clarksburgh. 
Negaunee. 
Ishpeming. 


Negaunee. 


Menominee  co. 

Negaunee. 

Humboldt. 

Negaunee. 

Stoneville. 

T.'^Iipeming. 
Forsyth. 
Micliigamme. 
L'Anse,  Houghton  co. 


Humboldt, 
Ishpeming. 


il 


I 


58 


BAILING  ON  THE  GREAT   LAKES. 


Iron  Product  for  the  Year  1873. 


Mines. 

Gross 
Tons. 

Value. 

MINUS. 

Gross 
Tor.s. 

Value. 

.T!W'*K'*4nil    ...      .... 

113,892 
132,082 
170,988 
70,882 
105,453 
72,783 
38,015 
21,005 
20,507 
48,077 
27,372 
43,934 
21,498 
31,730 
31,934 
28,906 
10,426 
38,970 
33,547 
37,139 
11,319 
3,212 

$797,210 

924,570  ! 
1.190,91<S  ' 
490,170  ' 
738,170 
509,478 
200,103 
147,457 
143,551 
830,536 
191,005 
307,535 
150,490 
222,111 
223,530 
202,705 
72,984 
272,788 
234,826 
259,978 
79,235 
22,484 

Rowland 

1,405 

2,074 

2,148 

8,058 

1,189 

1,050 

1,270 

1,240 

7,138 

9,329 

6,030 

4,518 

3,258 

1,090 

950 

181 

610 

113 

145 

79 

$9,832 

14,519 

15,030 

60,008 

8,320 

11,592 

8,935 

8,078 

49,904 

65,302 

40,407 

31,623 

22,808 

7,036 

0,049 

1,268 

3,570 

789 

1,010 

551 

Cleveland 

Lake  Superior.... 

New  York 

lioi)iii)li(' 

1 1  iiiirod 

AIiirMiiotto, 

Slii'iiaiicro 

Albion 

Carr 

T^ar^alpv 

( !h.'iiiii)!()ii 

"Wasliington 

Kloman 

lIowolIIIopiKKk. 
iMniiia 

C^'icrririo 

T^nrniini 

Sniitli 

Foster 

Grand  Central.... 
( Iribbon 

Lake  AiiKoline... 
Pittsbiirirli 

Goodrich 

Va  1  wards 

llonio 

M  ^nrr  . 

(Trpt*ii  T^:iv 

Michigamme 

New  England 

Allen 

IVIcConiber 

Iron  Mountain... 

Ilungeribrd 

Alaciii'tic ....a 

Wiiitliroi) 

Mnciniiw 

Rolling  Mill 

Mirhifan 

Total 

1,107,379 

$8,171,052 

Furnaces. 

The  following  Tajjle  shows  the  aggregate  production  of  the  several  Furnaces  in 
the  Marquette  District  for  1873,  with  the  value  of  the  Iron  ($45)  at  furnace : 


Furnaces. 

Gross 
Tuus. 

Value. 

Furnaces. 

Gross 
Tous. 

Value. 

Pioneer 

7,098 

2,000 
4,407 
4,416 
4,100 
6,324 
3,949 
3,447 
10,696 
8,700 

$319,410  ' 
90,000  : 
201,015 
198,710' 
184,500  ' 
184,580  ; 
177,705 
155,115 
481,320 
394,200 

Munising,      School- 
craft Co.... 

2,237 

7,800 
710 
428 

500 
2,175 
2,500 

$100,665 

351,000 

31,950 

25,080 

21, .500 

97,875 

108,000 

Collins 

Michifr.'in 

Grace 

Reecher 

Greenwood 

Tinnoroft 

Beechcr  (Muck  bar) 

Lake  Superior  (peat 

fnrn.nopl 

Morcran 

Champion 

l^ppr   Ijako 

Escanaba,  Delta  Co.. 
Alenominee 

Fayette,  Delta  Co... 
liav 

Total 

71,507 

$3,224,235 
1 

COPPER  MINES  OF  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


69 


Total  Amount  and  Value  of  Iron  Produced. 


Tfiiis, 

ToiiH, 

Irou  Ore. 

Pig  Iron. 

1856 

7,000 

1857 

21,000 

1858 

31,035 

1,629 

1859 

65,679 

7,258 

1860 

116,908 

6,660 

1801 

45,430 

7,970 

1862 

115,721 

8,590 

1803 

185,257 

9,813 

1864 

235,123 

13,832 

1865 

196,256 

12,283 

Value. 

Tons, 
Irou  Ore. 

296,972 
46(),076 
507,813 
033,238 
856,471 
813,379 
952,055 
1,167,379 

TOIIH, 

Pig  Irou. 

18,437 
30,911 
38,246 
39,003 
49,208 
51,225 
57,595 
71,607 

$28,000 

60,000 

249,202 

675,529 

736,496 

419,501 

984,977 

1,410,9.35 

1,807,215 

1,590,430 

1866 

1867 

1868 

1869 

1870 

1871 

1872 

1873 

Total- 

6,712,792 

423,257 

Value. 


$2, 

3, 
4, 
0, 
6 
9 
11 


405,960 
475,820 
992,413 
968,435 
300,170 
115,895 
188,055 
395,887 


Shipment  of  Iron  Ore,  1873. 

The  following  is  the  shipment  of  Iron  Ore  and  Pig  Iron  from  the  ports  of  EscU' 
naba,  Marcjuette,  and  L'Anse: 

MAIWiUETTE. 

Iron  ore 626,264  tons. 


Pig  Iron  25,997  " 

Total  Iron  ore  and  Pig  Iron.  552,261  " 

E.SCAN.\BA. 

Iron  ore 479,714  " 

Pig  Iron 9,248  " 

Total  Iron  ore  and  Pig  Iron.488,960  " 


l'anse. 
Totallronore 60,899  tons. 


Total  shipments  from  the  tlirce  ports 
for  1873: 

Iron  ore 1,066,877  tons. 

Pig  Iron 35,245     " 


Total 1,102,122     " 


Copper  Mines  of  Lake  Superior. 

During  the  past  thirty  years  the  Copper  Region  of  Lake  Superior  has  attracted 
the  attention  of  capitalists  .and  scientific  minds  —  year  by  year  increasing  in  interest 
and  v.alue,  while  building  up  mining  villages  and  causing  improvements  of  a  dura- 
ble character.  Keweenaw  Point,  in  an  extended  vicAV,  runs  soutlnvard  from  Lake 
Superior,  embracing  the  counties  of  Keweenaw,  Houghton  and  Ontonagon,  —  these 
counties  comprise  the  Copper  Districts.  The  product  of  jiure  copper  during  the 
year  1873  exceeded  any  previous  year  since  the  mines  were  opened. 

Upwards  of  one  hundred  mining  companies  have  been  formed  during  the  above 
period,  but  only  about  thirty  are  now  worked  to  profit,  while  upwards  of  seventy 
openings  are  for  the  most  part  lying  idle.  The  Clifl',  Quincy  and  Minnesota  mines 
formerly  proved  very  rich  in  copper,  but  of  late  the  Calumet  and  Hecla  have  far 
exceeded  all  other  mines  in  this  region. 


p— II  (nil   iii^ 


GO 


SAILING  ON  THE  GREAT  LAKES. 


Statement    of   Copper    (Minsral) 
Product  from  1845  to  1873. 

Tons. 

1845  to  1854 7,(542 

1854  to  1858 Il,;n2 

1858  to  1859 4,1()U 


4,2U0 
G,000 
7,500 
9,902 
8,548 
8,472 
10,701 
10,;J7(5 

18(57 11,785 

18(58 13,049 

18(59 15,288 

1870 1(5,183 

1S71 1(5,071 


1859. 
18(50. 
1861. 
1802. 
18(53. 
1804. 
18(55. 
18(50. 


18 


7') 


1.5,1(50 


1873 18,(538 


Approximate  Statement  of  Ingot 
Copper  Produced  and  its  Value. 


Tons. 

1845  to  1858 13,955 

1858 3,500 

1859 3,500 

ISOO 4,800 

1801 0,000 

1802 8,(J00 

18(53 (5,.50O 

LS(54 0,500 

18(55 7,000 

18(50 7,000 

18(57 8,200 

18(58 9,985 

1809 12,200 

1870 12,940 

1871 12,857 


187 


12,132 


1873 14,910 


Viiliic. 
$9,000,500 
1,880,000 
1,890,000 
2,(510,000 
3,337,500 
3,402,000 
4,420,000 
0,110,000 
5,14.5,000 
4,700,000 
4,140,000 
4,592,000 
5,3(58,000 
5,(59(5,240 
0,171,3(50 
7,774,720 
8,200,500 


Total 19-5,033 

Copper  Product  for  the  Year  1873 

PORTAOE  LAKE  DI.STRICT, 

Tons. 
Calumet  1111(1  Ilocla...  11,551 
Quiiu-v 1,000 


Total 149,985    $84,503,820 


Fniiikliii  and  Powabic 

Atlaiitif  

II()iij,fhtun  

Scliooloral't 

Isle  lloyale 

HllllllKT  

CoiU'onI  

Albany  and  Boston  ... 
Quincy  Tribute,  Can... 
Mesnard 


404 

285 

270 

143 

77 

84 

50 

25 

5 


Lbs. 
1,938 
180 
1,073 
701 


1,520 
1,417 

"m 


035 
1,587 


Total 15,229   1,951 


KEWEENAW   DISTKICT. 

Central 1,031 

Coi>i)er  Falls 834 

Phoenix 3-50 

Cliir.. 320 

Delaware 209 

St.  Clair 55 

Americau  24 


1,983 
927 


1.37 
500 
742 
380 


Amygdaloid. 
Petherick  .... 


Tons. 
19 
10 


Lbs. 
303 
34 


Total 2,8(i0      ],006 


ONTONAGON  DISTRICT. 

Ridge 1.50 

National 131 

Minnesota 103 

IJohemian 50 

Flint  Steel 45 

Knowlton 39 

Rockland 16 

Mass 6 

Adventure 3 

Fremont 


Total 547 

RECAPITULATION,   1873. 

Portage  Lake  District    15,229 
Keweenaw  Point     "       2,800 


Ontonagon  District... 


547 


113 

318 
1,700 

500 
1,3.56 
1,804 

400 

8(58 
1,238 

700 


1,117 


1,951 
1,006 
1,117 


Grand  Total 18,036      4,074 


M' 


SILVFR  MINING  ON   LAKK  8UPEUI0U. 


61 


Silvez  Mining  Companies, 

Ik  Ontonaoojs  County,  Michigan. 

Arpontino,  Township,  .'31  N.,  41  W. 

Jlaiicoi'k. 

Iron  Kiver. 

MiiiMinotli. 

OiitonuKon,  Township,  51  N.,  41  W. 


Ontonagon  and  Lake  Superior. 

i'orciipine. 

Scranton. 

Soiitli  Siioro, 

Superior,  Township,  51  N.,  42  W.,  Sec.  24. 


Tiie  al)ove  new  Silver  Mines  are  located  near  Iron  River,  whieli  enii)ties  into 
Luke  Sujjerior  east  of  the  Porcupine  jNIountain.  They  are  supitost.-d  to  he  rich  in 
silver  aiul  very  extensive.  Some  of  the  ore  assayed  has  yieldeil  over  $1,500  coin 
value  per  ton  of  2,000  pounds. 


Silver  Mining  on  Lake  Superior  —  North  Shore. 

BY  PETKR  m'KELLAR. 

"  The  Thunder  Bay  District  occupies  the  portion  of  Canada  bordering?  on  Lake 
Superior,  nortli  of  the  United  States  boundary.  It  is  mountainous  in  character,  with 
hold  dills  rising  from  iWO  to  1,400  feet  above  the  lake  and  valleys.  Tlii'  valleys 
are  numerous  and  generally  fertile,  some  being  of  consideral)lc  extent,  such  as  that 
of  the  l\aministi(piia  River,  so  that  it  is  cai>al)le  of  supporting  a  much  larger  agri- 
cultural population  than  the  people  in  general  have  any  idea  of.  The  many  low 
and  lofty  islands,  strewn  along  the  coast  and  in  the  bays,  render  the  scenery  pic- 
tures(iue  and  beautiful. 

"Tlie  geological  formations  of  tiiis  section  are:  —  The  Laurentian,  Iluronian, 
and  the  Upi)er  Copper  Rocks,  named  and  described  by  Sir  VVm.  Logan  (see  his 
(.rcology  of  Canada),  afterwards  described  by  others,  and  especially  by  Professors 
K.  Bell  and  E.  J.  Chapman.  The  Laurentian  and  Iluronian  are  the  crystalline 
or  azoic  rocks,  and  the  Upper  Copper  Rocks  are  supposed  to  be  the  equivalent  of 
a  part  of  the  lower  Silurian,  and  are  divided  into  two  divisiotis  —  the  Upper  and 
the  Lower  beds.  The  Laurentian  occupy  the  Height  of  Land  principally,  touching 
the  lake  shore  in  but  few  places  within  this  ilistrict.  It  consists  of  granite,  gneiss, 
syenite,  and  micaceous  schists,  almost  entirely.  Its  veins  of  quartz  and  sjKir  carry 
copper  and  iron  |)yrites,  also  galena  and  zinc  blende  occasionally,  but  from  my  ex- 
perience 1  am  not  favorably  impressed  in  reganl  to  its  metalliferous  (lualilications. 

"The  Iluronian  series  lay  generally  between  the  Siliuian  and  Laurentian, 
striking  occasionally  in  a  iiorth-easterly  direction,  in  a  broad  belt  or  trough,  back 
toward  the  Height  of  Land  into  the  Laurentian.  The  ])rincii)al  area  occupied  by 
these  belts  stretches  westward  from  Thunder  Bay  through  Shebandowan  Lake, 
thence  on  to  the  American  boundary.  It  consists  of  greenish  and  greenish-gray 
strata,  with  a  dip  nearly  vertical.  The  principal  portions  have  a  slaty  structure, 
consisting  of  chloritic,  argillaceous,  talcose,  silicious,  dioritic,  and  fine  grain  mica- 
ceous slates,  with  interstratified  beds  of  massive  diorite.  It  is  from  tliese  slates  we 
are  expecting  great  results  in  mining.  It  is  only  three  years  since  the  first  silver 
mine  (3  A),  or  any  other  mine  (except  the  little  Pic  Iron),  was  discovered  in  the 


!• 


lii 

iiltii 


■'i'i 


"^•"•W 


G2 


SAILING  ON  THE  GREAT   LAKES. 


Iluronian,  in  this  section.  The  following  snmracr,  the  Jackfish  Lake  Gold  and 
Silver  Mine  was  discovered  ia  the  same  series,  Iving  nearly  100  miles  to  the  west 
of  3  A. 

'"  Next  in  ascending  order  is  the  lower  beds  of  tlie  Upper  Copper  Rocks.  They 
occupy  the  coast  and  islands,  with  the  exception  of  a  little  piece  in  Thunder  Bay, 
whore  the  older  rocks  come  in  from  the  east  side  of  this  bay  westwxrd  beyond 
the  .Imerican  boundary,  showing  also  at  a  few  points  farther  east,  underlying 
the  Upper  Beds.  They  consist  of  layers  of  chert,  dolomite,  and  iron  ore,  the  latter 
being  near  the  base,  with  thick  beds  of  clay,  slate,  and  gray  argillaceous  sandstone 
shales,  interstratified  with  beds  of  columnar  trap.  The  intersecting  veins  carry 
silver,  galena,  zinc  blende,  and  copper  and  iron  pyrites,  and  other  metals  in  small 
quantities.  Until  the  discovery  of  the  silver  and  gold  lodes  above  referred  to  iu 
tl'.e  Iluronian  series,  these  slates  were  considered  tlie  silver  bearing  formation  of 
tlie  country.  The  Silver  Islet,  Thunder  Bay,  Shuniah  (now  the  Duncan),  Silver 
Harbor,  Prince's  Bay,  Spar  Island,  Jarvis  Island,  MoKellar's  Island,  Lambert's 
Island,  Thompson  Island,  Mclvenzie,  Trowbridge,  3  B,  and  McKellar's  Point  veins 
are  all  silver  bearing,  and  intersect  tliese  slates,  most  of  them  being  vmdeveloped. 

"The  upper  beds  of  the  copper  rocks  occupy  the  principal  part  of  the  coast,  and 
almost  all  the  islands  from  Thunder  Bay  to  the  east  end  of  Nepigon  Bay.  They 
consist  of  sandstones,  conglomerates,  indurated  marls,  and  some  interstratitied 
soapstone,  crowned  by  an  immens'^  thickness  of  trappean  beds,  most  of  which  are 
amygdaloidal  in  character.  The  quartz  and  spar  veins  which  traverse  the  sedi- 
mentary or  lower  portion,  hold  galena,  copper  ores,  and  zinc  blende  in  very  con- 
siderablft  (quantities,  also  gold  and  silver,  as  shown  by  Professor  Chai)man  in  his 
Report  of  the  Black  Bay  Lode,  now  the  North  Shore  Mine.  The  Silver  Lake, 
Cariboo,  and  the  above,  are  the  principal  lodes  known  in  these  strata.  The  above 
trappean  beds  are  the  famous  native  copper-bearing  rocks  of  the  South  Shore  and 
Isle  Royale.  At  the  former  place  the  workable  lodes  which  conform  with  the  strata 
dip  at  a  high  angle,  and  are  wonderfully  rich.  On  our  side  these  rocks  dip  at 
low  angles,  and,  as  far  as  I  can  understand,  all  the  explorations  and  work  for  native 
coi)per  were  made  on  the  intersecting  veins  instead  of  the  bedded  or  conformable 
ones.  It  may  be  that  the  difference  of  dip  may  have  something  to  do  with  their 
richness,  it  being  generally  considered  that  strata  witli  a  high  dip  are  more  favor- 
able for  mineral  veins  than  those  with  a  low  dip.  However,  since  the  discovery 
of  silver  in  Thunder  Bay,  little  or  no  attention  has  been  paid  to  these  copper 
rocks  by  the  explorer,  so  that  there  is  no  knowing  what  they  may  turn  out  yet. 

"Native  copper  with  associated  nuggets  of  silver  is  the  principal  metal  found 
in  these  rocks,  but  occasionally  the  sidphurets  and  other  ores  are  met  with  in  small 
quantities.  The  veins,  in  passing  through  them  into  the  sandstone,  seem  to  drop 
tlie  native  copper,  it  being  replaced  by  the  sulphurets.  Many  years  ago  the  Mon- 
treal Company  and  others  spent  a  considerable  sum  of  money  mining  in  these 
rocks  without  success ;  but  that  is  of  little  importance,  as  there  was  ten  times  more 
spent  in  the  South  Shore  before  tlie  mines  proved  productive. 

"  In  the  winter  of  1867  and  1868,  the  Government  placed  an  annual  tax  of 
two  cents  per  acre  on  all  the  patented  land  on  Lake  Superior,  which  worked 
much  good,  as  parties  holding  much  land,  and  having  to  pay  such  heavy  tax,  set 
to  work  to  explore  and  find  out  its  value.  The  result  was  the  discovery  of  silver 
in  the  Jarvis  Island  and  in  the  far-famed  Silver  Islet,  which  in  all  probability 
would  still  be  unknown,  and  for  years  to  come  in  the  hands  of  the  Montreal 


SILVER  MINING  ON  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


68 


Mining  Company,  as  it  had  been  for  many  years  previous.  In  the  spring  of  1868, 
this  Corajjany  secured  the  valuable  services  of  the  well  known  Mr.  Thoinaa 
^lacfarlane,  with  a  party  of  men,  to  examine  and  report  on  their  lands  on  Lake 
Superior.  His  first  exi)lorations  were  made  on  the  Jarvis  location,  situated  about 
22  miles  to  the  south  of  Fort  William,  on  which  he  discovered  silver  in  a  large 
lode  of  heavy  and  calcareous  spars  and  quartz,  on  the  Island  of  the  same  name, 
which  lies  one  and  a  half  miles  off  the  shore.  The  Island  is  about  twenty  chains 
wide  where  the  vein  crosses,  a  considerable  portion  being  deeply  covered  with 
earth.  The  vein  is  well  defined,  eight  to  ten  feet  wide,  with  a  dij)  of  about  fifty 
degrees  to  the  east-north-east.  The  silver  shows  in  leaves  generally,  but  also  in 
strings  and  small  nuggets,  through  the  spar,  and  the  black  carbonaceous  zinc- 
blende  matter.  Mr.  Macfarlane  sunk  a  shaft  about  twelve  feet  deep  in  the  sum- 
mer of  1809,  taking  out  some  line  silver  ore.  Again  in  1870  he  followed  it  down 
Bome  twenty  feet  more,  taking  out  a  considerable  (juantity  of  ore. 

"  This  location  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Ontario  Mineral  Land  Company 
about  the  1st  of  September,  1870,  along  with  the  Silver  Islet  and  all  the  other  lands 
owned  by  the  Montreal  Mining  Company  on  Lake  Superior.  This  Company,  in 
June  and  July  of  1871,  employed  a  small  party  mining  on  this  lode  for  a  month 
or  two,  when  they  sold  it  for  $150,000  to  Messrs.  R.  F.  McFwen  of  London,  and 
Simon  Mandlebaum  of  Detroit.  Since  then  the  mine  has  been  worked  with  con- 
siderable energy.  The  first  shaft  has  been  sunk  about  100  feet,  and  two  others 
about  70  feet  each,  the  first  30  to  40  feet  being  an  alluvial  deposit.  The  ten  fathom 
level  was  being  driven  to  connect  Nos.  1  and  2  shafts  when  I  was  there  hist  winter, 
and  I  i)resume  it  is  through  before  this.  They  drove  a  winze  down  below  this  level 
35  to  40  feet,  in  which  they  found  a  rib  of  ore  resting  against  the  hanging  wall. 
It  increased  from  an  inch  or  so  to  over  a  foot  in  thickness  in  the  35  feet.  The  ore 
consists  of  spar  charged  with  argentiferous  zinc  blende.  I  heard  it  assayed  from 
$100  to  over  $200  per  ton.  I  have  no  doubt,  when  followed,  it  will  be  found  very 
rich  in  silver  in  places.  The  vein  is  tbund  to  be  very  large,  well  defined,  and 
regular.  Very  little  silver  was  found  in  drivin<r  the  drift  save  the  indication  —  it 
being  seen  as  a  sulphuret  coating  tiie  blende.  They  commenced  in  the  fall,  sloping 
away  the  ground  next  No.  1  shaft,  and  according  to  the  reports  they  are  taking  out 
rich  ore.  I  saw  a  specimen  from  it  before  leaving  Fort  William  in  the  fall,  which 
was  charged  with  both  the  glance  and  native  silver.  Caj)tain  riummer  informed 
me  that  he  had  broken  fine  specimens  of  silver  out  of  the  lode  under  the  water,  on 
the  west  side  of  the  island.  The  true  fissure  character  of  the  lode  is  quite  evident 
by  its  appearance.  Again,  it  intersects  the  immense  diorite  dyke  of  Silver  Island, 
80  that  there  will  be  no  danger  of  its  giving  out,  or  losing  its  character  by  sinking. 
A  number  of  good,  substantial  houses  were  erected  In  the  fall  of  1872,  and  every- 
thing is  in  good  working  order,  with  a  force  of  20  to  30  men  at  work.  On  the 
whole,  it  may  be  considered  a  mine  of  much  proniise,  although  it  hu>,  turned  out 
but  little  silver  for  the  work  done.  It  seems  to  belong  to  the  same  class  of  veins 
as  that  of  the  Silver  Islet,  which  has  been  proven  to  a  depth  of  300  feet  already, 
and  shown  to  carry  the  precious  metal  in  such  large  cpiantities.  They  bear  in  the 
same  direction,  carry  the  same  minerals  and  metals,  and  intersect  the  same  forma- 
tion, with  the  comparison  of  size  being  in  favor  of  the  former.  p]ven  at  Silver 
Islet  a  good  deal  of  work  has  been  done  where  it  showr       y  little  silver. 

"  A  month  or  so  after  the  discovery  of  the  Jarvis,  JSir.  Macfarlane  turned  his 
attention  to  the  Wood's  Location,  which  lies  a  few  miles  to  the  east  of  Thunder 


i 


^^K^^ 


M 


'?»■•' 


64 


SAILING  ON  THE  GREAT   LAKES. 


Cape.  During  his  examination,  he  discovered  tlie  Silver  Islet  Lode,  tlie  silver 
being  first  noticed  by  one  ot"  the  party  naniud  Morgan.  The  Islet  was  about  75 
feet  long,  rising  G  to  8  foet  above  the  Lake,  and  lying  about  hall"  a  mile  from  the 
main  shore.  The  vein  crosses  the  Islet  in  twt)  branches,  about  20  feet  apart,  each 
4  to  6  feet  wide,  bearing  about  N.N.W.  and  S.8.E.,  with  a  dip  nearly  vertical. 
The  veinstone  consists  of  calcareous  or  bitter  spar,  of  a  reddish-white  color,  with 
some  quartz,  etc.  The  rich  streak  of  ore  consists  of  spar,  fine-grain  galena,  and 
occasionally  zinc  blende.  Through  the  whole,  especially  the  galena,  the  native 
silver  is  more  or  less  thickly  disseminated  in  fine  strings,  etc.,  the  sulphuret  of 
silver  being  occasionally  present,  also  small  quantities  of  nickel  and  col)alt.  This 
streak  is  2  or  li  inches  wide  generally,  but  in  places  it  spreads  out  to  a  foot  or 
more.  It  becomes  poor  and  disappears  in  places,  and  again  comes  in ;  and  in 
sinking,  in  some  of  the  layers  between  two  floors  it  is  found  to  be  rich,  and  in 
others  poor.  These  floors,  if  I  remember  rightly,  dip  at  a  low  angle  to  the  north, 
and  are  generally  2  or  3  feet  apart.  The  west  branch,  or  vein  that  showed  the 
most  silver  at  surface,  is  the  one  upon  which  the  work  is  being  carried  on.  It 
crossed  at  the  west  end  of  the  island,  being  almost  entirely  covered  by  water, 
though  shallow,  for  50  feet  or  more  along  the  lode,  so  that  the  men  had  to  work  in 
the  water  in  taking  out  the  ore.  The  Islet  lies  on  the  abnve-mentioned  dyke  of 
diorite  (Macfarlane's  band),  which  is  rather  coaise  in  texture  away  from  the 
walls.  A  portion  running  along  the  middle  shows  a  reddish  or  brown  apiK-arance, 
owing  to  the  color  of  the  feldspar,  the  rest  being  greenish-gray  in  color,  with  white 
or  greenish-white  feldspar,  and  dark-green  hornblende,  etc.  It  ditiers  in  ap})ear- 
ance  from  any  of  the  num(?rous  trap  dykes  I  have  seen  in  the  country,  and  is  very 
wiiie.  Here  it  intersects  the  slightly  inclined  bluish  or  greenish-gray  shales,  which 
seem  to  occupy  a  position  near  the  summit  of  the  loAver  beds  of  the  Upper  Copper 
Rocks. 

"They  succeeded  in  taking  out  several  hundred  weights  of  the  ore,  which  Mr. 
Macfarlane  brought  with  him  to  Montreal  in  tlie  fall,  and  had  it  tiioroughly  tested, 
various  grades  yielding  from  $1,000  to  over  .$3,000  per  ton.  They  built  a  house 
or  two  on  the  main  land,  and  one  on  the  Islet,  and  left  a  party  of  seven  or  eight 
men  to  mhie  and  take  out  timber  for  cril)  work,  during  tlie  winter.  They  com- 
menced to  sink  a  shaft  on  the  dry  part  of  the  Islet,  in  the  country  rock,  with  the 
intention  of  intersecting  the  lode  at  the  di'pth  of  30  feet,  where  the  water  would 
not  trouble  them.  By  the  time  they  had  got  down  about  18  feet,  a  heavy  storm 
came  and  lilled  it  up,  piling  the  iee  higii  above  it,  knocking  the  floor  of  tiie 
boarding-house  through,  and  nearly  carrying  the  whole  thing  away,  leaving  the 
men  in  great  danger.  That  put  a  stop  to  that  work ;  but  some  time  in  February 
or  March  the  shallow  water  had  frozen  solid  lo  the  rock,  and  the  miners  cut  through 
it,  and  succeeded  in  taking  out,  according  to  their  own  estimates,  about  825,000 
worth  of  ore  in  about  a  week,  when  a  storm  broke  it  up  again.  Mr.  Macfarlane 
Avas  in  Montreal  during  the  winter,  and  made  an  estimate  of  the  amount  necessary 
to  place  the  mine  on  a  safe  footing  for  carrying  on  the  works,  and,  as  I  understood, 
asked  the  Company  for  §50,000  to  do  it;  but  they  refused,  although  the  evidences 
of  its  richness  were  so  strong.  No  doubt  they  had  the  opinion  of  some  pretended 
mining  men  who  had  been  in  the  country,  Avhieh  was  to  the  eflect  that  all  these 
veins  would  '  play  out'  in  sinking  30  feet.  People  will  not  be  deceived  any  more 
by  such  a  theory,  as  time  luis  shown  its  simplicity.  The  men  continued  doing 
what  little  they  could  on  the  Islet  on  calm  days,  and  taking  out  timber,  etc.,  until 
the  mine  was  sold  in  September  following. 


SILVER  MINING  ON  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


65 


n 

le 
Ic 


"  In  the  winter  and  spring  of  1870,  Mr.  Macfarlane  entered  into  negotiations  with 
American  caj)itali.st.s  for  the  sale  of  Silver  Islet,  with  tlie  consent  of  tlie  Company ; 
and  Cajjtain  Wni.  B.  Frue,  of  Portage  Lake,  south  shore  of  Lake  Sujierior,  a  person 
of  long  experience  in  mining,  went  with  Mr.  Macfarlane,  on  the  opening  of  navi- 

fation,  to  see  it.  lie  was  so  favorahly  impressed  with  its  appearance  that  he  and 
Ir,  A,  II.  Sihley,  the  ahove-mentioned  capitalists,  became  very  sanguine,  but  were 
in  danger,  for  some  time,  of  being  thrown  to  one  side  altogether,  as  the  Montreal 
Company  had  entered  into  an  agreement  with  an  English  Company  for  all  their 
lands  on  Lakes  Huron  and  Superior,  including  Silver  Islet.  However,  the  Eng- 
lish and  American  Companies  came  to  an  understanding  of  being  equally  interested 
in  carrying  out  the  agreement ;  but  when  the  first  day  of  payment  arrived,  the 
English  Company  backed  out,  and  the  Americans  stepped  in  and  took  the  whole, 
paying  $50,000  in  gold  on  the  1st  of  September,  1870,  the  rest  in  three  instalments, 
making  in  all  $125,000,  the  amount  of  the  purchase." 

Included  in  said  contract  is  an  oblong  tract,  about  five  miles  in  length  coast- 
wise, and  two  miles  in  width,  with  the  adjacent  islands  (including  Silver  Islet), 
containing  sixty-four  hundred  acres,  designated  and  known  as  the  "  Wood's  Lo- 
cation." It  is  situated  five  miles  easterly  from  Thunder  Cape,  and  twenty  miles 
northerly  from  the  eastern  end  of  Isle  Royale,  in  the  Province  of  Ontario,  Can. 
A  corporation  was  formed,  styled  the  "Silver  Islet  Mining  Company  of  Lake  Supe- 
rior," with  a  capital  stock  of  $2,000,000,  divided  into  20,000  shares,  of  $100  eadi. 

"  Immediately  on  closing  the  bargain,  Mr.  Sibley  telegraphed  from  Montreal  to 
Captain  Frue,  at  Houghton,  Michigan,  who  chartered  a  steamer  to  transport  some 
thirty  men,  with  the  necessary  supplies,  and  heavy  timber,  for  a  breakwater,  to 
Silver  Islet.  Arriving  safely,  he  immediately  commenced  building  the  coller-dam, 
etc.,  and  by  the  beginning  of  October  they  were  enabled  to  commence  mining. 
Again  the  works  were  interrupted  for  a  week  or  so,  in  the  first  part  of  November, 
by  a  storm,  which  carried  away  part  of  the  colTer-dam.  After  all  the  difficulties 
the^  had  to  contend  with,  they  iiad  shipped  over  $90,000  by  the  close  of  navi- 
gation. They  continued  mining,  with  few  interruptions,  until  a  severe  storm  in 
the  first  part  of  March  had  carried  away  nearly  half  the  crib-work,  filling  the 
mine  ,7ith  water  and  ice.  The  works  were  again  restored,  and  mining  re-com- 
menced some  time  in  May  (1871)  following. 

"The  mine  had  to  be  worked  entirely  from  one  surface  opening  or  shaft,  which 
was  a  great  disadvantage,  as  but  few  miners  could  be  employed  for  a  long  time. 
The  shaft  was  built  of  timber,  and  made  water-light  from  the  solid  rock  to  the 
height  of  15  to  20  feet  above  tlie  water,  so  that  the  water  could  not  get  into  the 
mine,  even  if  it  should  get  over  the  crib-work.  From  this  opening  the  mine  was 
continually  enlarging  by  sinking  and  by  driving  along  each  way  on  the  lode,  taking 
care  to  leave  a  strong  backing  to  prevent  the  Lake  from  breaking  in.  By  the  time 
they  had  got  down  some  80  or  100  feet,  they  had  gained  distance  enough  on  each 
side  to  sink  winzes,  which  would  be  connected  at  certain  distances,  or  at  each  level, 
by  galleries  to  the  main  shaft,  which  was  then  closed  in  all  the  way  up.  This 
would  i)urify  the  air  by  causing  a  circulation,  and  allow  them  to  employ  more 
miners  to  advantage  than  they  could  do  when  it  was  all  one  open  cut.  On  tliis 
principle  the  works  have  been  expanding  lengthways  on  the  lode  and  in  depth, 
and  now  tliey  are  down  over  300  feet  below  the  surface  of  Lake  Superior.  When 
I  passed  there  last  fall  thev  had  cut  a  strong  vein  of  water,  which  at  first  threatened 
to  fill  up  the  mine ;  but  wlicu  they  got  the  new  engine  to  work,  aa  I  was  told,  it  was 


'  J-i' 
■(; 


1   ■-  i 


Itii 


I  1 


66 


SAILING  ON  THE   GREAT  LAKES. 


able  to  keep  flio  water  down  ;  hut  a  larger  pump  is  reiitiired,  which  they  sent  for, 
but  it  was  fro7A'n  in  on  the  south  shore,  and  they  will  have  to  wait  until  navigation 
opens.  However,  they  are  able  to  earry  on  the  mining  in  the  other  parts  of  the 
mine,  and  1  see  l)V  the  last  letters  from  tiiere  that  it  is  looking  as  well  as  ever.  In 
the  winter  of  1871  tliey  drove  a  eross-cut  8on)e  3(J  feet  to  eut  the  east  vein,  whieh 
they  said  was  large,  and  looked  very  well,  but  it  made  too  much  water,  so  they 
had  to  close  it  up.  At  surfaee,  improvements  have  been  continually  going  on. 
They  have  enlarged  the  area  of  the  Islet  from  less  than  a  sixth  of  an  acre  to  more 
than  two  acres,  and  built  10  or  12  good  buildings  on  it.  On  the  main  shore  they 
have  built  extensive  docks,  a  large  store,  ehureli,  school-house,  and  about  40  dwell- 
ing-houses. I  suppose  the  whole  population  is  over  300,  there  being  on  an  aver- 
age about  130  laborers  employetl  on  the  location. 

"  I  have  no  doubt  the  value  of  the  product  of  this  mine  is  greater,  for  the  amount 
of  ground  opened,  than  that  of  any  other  mine,  although  the  annual  product  of 
some  mines  is  much  greater,  owing  to  its  peculiar  situation.  In  1870  the  product 
was  172,8'2o  pounds — value  of  same,  $105,828,  which  gave  an  average  of  about  61 
cents  per  pound,  or  $1,218  per  ton  of  2,000  pounds.  In  1871  the  product  was 
l)()i),454  i)ounils  —  value  of  same,  $645,397,  at  a  rate  of  (JOA  events  per  pound,  or 
$1,330  per  ton ;  showing  an  average  yield  of  a  ton  and  a  half  per  day. 

"  I5y  excluding  all  expenditure  not  properly  belonging  to  the  Silver  Islet  Lo- 
cation, such  as  the  price  paid  for  the  seventeen  locations,  the  taxes,  and  the  expenses 
of  the  explorations  on  the  other  location,  and  the  law  fees  relating  to  the  title,  etc., 
we  have  a  total  expenditure  of  about  $430,000  for  1870,  1871,  and  1872,  while  the 
product  of  the  mine  equals  $707,448  for  1870  and  1871.  Why  the  product  for 
1872,  wliich  we  know  was  very  large,  is  excluded  from  the  report,  is  more  than  I 
can  tell,  unless  it  was  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  down  the  rei)utation  of  the  mine, 
so  that  those  i)arties  who  were  trying  to  break  their  title  would  not  be  so  sanguine. 
Since  the  date  of  the  above  report  we  know  that  the  mine  has  been  continually 
turning  out  rich  ore,  and  j)aying  dividends  to  the  shareholders,  besides  expending 
large  sums  in  pernuinent  improvements. 

"  Had  this  mine  been  on  tlie  main  land,  and  worked  under  favorable  or  ordinary 
circumstances,  what  a  ri'-h  mine  it  would  be.  Even  where  it  is,  with  all  its  dis- 
advantages, it  is  producing  largely,  and  has  been  a  very  profitable  mine  to  the 
stockholders,  and  no  doubt  further  developments  will  show  many  such  mines  in 
this  extensive  metalliferous  section." 

The  product  from  Silver  Islet  Mine  for  1870-71-72  and  73,  no  doubt  exceeds 
$2,000,000,  although  the  exact  amount  is  unknown  to  the  public. 

Silver  Mining  Companies,  North  Shore,  Lake  Superior. 
Located  on  Thunder  Island  Bay  and  its  Vicinity. 


Name. 
Algonia, 
Cornish, 
Howland, 
Interiuitional, 
Jarvis  Island, 


Name. 
Spar  Island, 
Silver    Harbor,    or 

Beek, 
Silver  Islet, 
Thompson's  Island, 


McKellar's  Island,  Thunder  Bay, 
Ontario,  Trowbridge, 

Prince's  Bay,  3  A  Mine, 

Shuniah,  3  B  Mine. 


The  extent  and  richness  of  the  Thun- 
der Bay  Silver  District  is  as  yet  but 
partially  known,  although  several  sil- 
ver mines  are  being  worked.  It  is 
supposed  that  the  Mineral  Region  ex- 
tends westward  to  Lake  Shebandow- 
en,  a  distance  of  about  one  hundred 
miles. 


T-  "Hi  I 


GRAND    PLEASURE     EXCURSION 

FROM  NEW  YORK  TO  LAKE  SUPERIOR  &  ST.  PAUL, 

via  NIAGARA  FALLS, 

"^  STOPPINC}  PLACES.  MILES. 

[EW  YORK  to  AI.BA\Y, 

{liaihoad  or  Steamer,)   145 

Albany  to  Roci'ssteu,  [Railroad,) 220—    374 

Rochester  to  Buffalo G9 —    4435 

Buffalo  to  Cleveland,  viaLake  Shore  Route  183 —    620 
;  Rochester  TO  XiAGARA  Falls,  (i^u^p'raZJnrfjfe,)    75 —    44S 

:  Suspension  Bridge  to  IIaiiilton,  Canada 4.3 —    491 

.  Eamilton  to  Detroit,  Mich 187 —    07S 

TAULE  nocK.  Detroit  to  Cuicago,  via  Mich.  Central E.  R.2Si —    962 

Detroit  to  Port  Huron,  (Steamboat  Route,) 73—    751 

Pout  Huron  to  De  Tour,  (Lako  Ilurou,) 225 —    976 

De  Tour,  (Mouth  St.  Mary's  River,)  to  Saut  Ste.  Marie 00—1,026 

Saut  Ste.  Marie  to  Marq;ette,  (Lako  Superior,) 170 — 1,196 

Marquette  to  Portage  Entry 75 — l,2?'l 

Portage  Entry  to  Copper  Harbor G3 — 1 .334 

Copper  Harbor  to  O.vtonagon 92 — 1,426 

Ontonagon  to  Bayfield,  Wis 88 — 1,514 

Bayhkld  to  Di'HTU 88— 1,602 

1>UL.IJTU  TO  ST.  PAUIi,  Minn.,  (Z>.  S.  ^  Miss.  R.  7e.)...154— 1,756 

St.  Paul  to  CntCAOO,  {Direct  Railroad  Route,) —    410 

Chicago  to  New  York,  lia  Detroit 962 — 1,404 

l^  This  Railroad  and  Steamboat  Route  from  the  City  of  ]Vcw  York 

to  St.  Paul,  Minn.,  via  Niagara  Falls,  Lakes  Huron  and  Superior, — passing  the 
Island  of  Mackinac,  the  Saut  Sto.  Mario,  and  the  Pictured  Rocks, — a  total  Distance 
of  1.756  Miles,  affords  the  invalid,  and  seeker  of  pleasure,  during  the  Summer 
months,  one  of  most  healthy,  interesting,  and  Oruild  Excursions  on  the 
Continent  of  America. 


51 


67 


i 


!■ 


^-yw* 


STOPPING  PLACES  and  OBJECTS  OF  INTEREST  IN  THE  ROUND  TRIP  FROM 

BUFFALO  TO  DULUTH,  ST.  PAUL,  &c. 

DISTANCES 


I'OKTS,   ETC.  MILKS. 

jnil'ALOfN.  T. 0 

DlNKIKlv 42 

JJIi'ir,  I'ii 48  »() 

Asm  lAiU'i.A.  Ohio 41  L'U 

<  Li:i  IILAND,  Uhlo ry\  lK.-> 

Mai.dion,  ("fin \m  2.S.) 

IHCTIKUT,  Mu-h 20  lilt.') 

l,ak.'  St.  ("lair 7  ;il2 

J'ort  Huron (iS  3.S0 

I'oiiit  ail  Manjuo  and  Lifj;lit 70  4.")0 

Tliiiiiilcr  15ay  aiul  Liglit ~'>  .5ij 

J*r  Tour,  Mii'li S.)  010 

t'm'KCIl  H   liANDINU 41  ti.')l 

Suut  St<:  Murif 14  Wk) 

Wliiti-  Fisli  I'oiutand  Light 40  "0.5 

IMcliirod  Rocks so  7K.J 

MAlHHrKTTE .^0  KVy 

Portage  Entry SO  91o 

( PloiJGUTON,  14  Miles.) 

Kowcoiiaw  I'olnt .W  flfti 

L'ori'KK  Hakhok 1.5  !»so 

V;a(;i,k  Hakhok 10  iiiMi 

EA(il-K   KlVKK 10  l,(l(«) 


PORTS,  ETC.  MILE.?. 

Outonuffon flO  l,mi 

I>A  I'olNTK,  Wi.S M»  1,140 

liuiijiihl A  1,1  lit 

SlCKItlOK  (  ITV .SO  1,22)> 

X»</.l/'/'i/,  Minn 0  l,2;i5 

Lake  Superior  &  Mississippi  Railrnnd. 

Fond  or  r,Ac 10  1,2.51 

( Dalles  ul'  tlio  St.  liunis  Kirer.) 

Tfiouison S  1,2.'>9 

June.  Northfrn  PaclHc  K.  11 1  1,2<H) 

Jlhirhhif ">;{  l,:sia 

While  Hear  I/ike (i.5  1,:{7H 

ST.  I'AVL 12  l,.i'JO 

I.akel'epin 00  1,4.}0 

Lakk  (  ity 2.}  1,4S1 

U'hiotiu 7.")  l/M 

Lu  CrosHv,  Wis 40  l,o!M} 

I'roirif  ilu  Chirn S4  1,070 

lHlH:Ol'i:i>\>\).  Jiuulrith 70  1,740 

rr<<i>ort,  111 OS  1,W)8 

CIIK  AtiO 121  1,929 

MiciiKJAN  fiTY,  Ind ■")•")  1,!W4 

JH:Tlt(HT 22!)  2,213 


SIEAMBOAI  Alio  BAILHOAD  ROOI[S  mmm  IHE  UPPER  LAKES  WilH  IHE  MISSISSIPPI  RlfER. 

This  Grand  Excuk-sion  embraces  l,.5.s")  illle.s  ol  Lake  and  River  Navigation  and 
628  JNliks  Hailroad  Travel. 

J^ETURNING    VIA    THE  yVllSSISSIPPI    J^IVER    TO    pUBUqUE. 

RAILROAD   CONNECTIONS,  &c. 

From  Marqfettr  the  J'rninsn/d  Divi.^ion  of  the  ^liienffo  A-  Northivestcrn  linil- 
road  convey  Passengers,  via  (ireeu  15ay,  to  t'uuAiJO,  St.  Louis,  &.c. 

From  Dl7  L^TII  the  Northern  Pacific  Hailroad  oonvej's  Passengers  to  the  Missis- 
sippi and  >i.ssourl  Klvers,  4.50  mlh^s,  there  connecting  with  Steamers  on  the  Upi>er 
Missouri,— making  anoth(>r  (trand  Kxci'ksion  ot  great  inteii'sl,— ascending  the 
Missouri  to  Fort  Uvnton,  Mont.,  by  .Stt-anieis. 

This  road  also  forms  a  Line  of  Travel  to  Fort  Garry,  Manitoba. 


DISTANCES  FROM  EASTERN  CITIES  TO  PORTS  ON  LAKE  ERIE. 

ClTir.S,  KTC.  MILES. 

Jialfhuoroto  Clevrland,  Ohio,  via  Ualtimore  &  Ohio  R.  R 478 

P/iilaih-lphia  to  Chifi-land,  OhUi,  via  Pennsylvania  Central  Railroad ....505 

I'liilaih-lplda  to  Frit;  Pa.,  via  I'hiladelphia  &  Erie  Railroad .' 4;5l 

JV'ic  York  to  /</'*•»>,  Pa.,  via  Catawlssa  Route ..4K6 

N<-u<  York  to  Buffalo,  via  Erie  Railway 42;J 

JV'cje  York  to  i»«//V;''>.  via  New  York  Central  R  R 443 

lioalon  to  Buffalo,  via  llosioir&^VJbainy  R.  R.  and  New  York  Central  R.  R 498 

08  — -— -, 


ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER  AND  LAKE  NAVIGATION 


The  St.  Lawrence  navigation  ex- 
tends from  the  Straits  of  Hclle  Isle, 
near  the  coast  of  Labrador  (N.  Lat. 
61°  30^  W.  Lonij.  5J°  30^,  to  Duluth, 
Minn.,  at  the  head  of  Lake  Superior, 
n  distance  of  about  2,500  statute 
miles,  by  direct  course. 

The  Canadian  Canals  on  this  route 
are  the  Lachine  Canal,  8J  miles ; 
Beauharnois,  ll^r  miles;  Cornwall, 
11.}  miles;  Farran's  Point,  1  mile; 
Rapid  Plat,  4  miles ;  Galops,  7.V 
miles,  (on  the  St.  Lawrence  River), 
and  the  AVelland  Canal,  (between 
Lakes  Ontario  and  Eric),  27  miles. 
Their  united  length  is  71  miles,  and 
total  lockage  is  537  feet,  passing 
through  54  locks. 

The  St.  Mary's  Ship  Canal  1  mile 
in  length  and  18  feet  lockage  (two 
locks),  avoiding  the  Rapids  and  unit- 
ing the  waters  of  Lake  Huron  and 
Superior,  was  constructed  by  a  com- 
pany with  the  aid  of  the  United 
States  Government.  Lake  Ontario  is 
elevated  234  feet  above  the  highest 
tidal  flow  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  at 
Three  Rivers:  Lake  Erie,  504  feet; 
Lake  Huron,  574  feet;  Lake  Michigan, 
57(3  feet,  and  Lake  Superior,  GOO  feet 
above  the  ocean. 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES. 


MILES.                             PORTS,  Ac. 

MILES. 

2,540  Straits  of  Bf.llk  Im,e, 

no 

1,870  Mouth  Saguemvy  llivor, 

C70 

1,7:10  QuKnEC, 

140 

felO 

l.tii.")  Thrort  Hivcrg, 

85 

8'Jj 

\JM)  Montreal, 

85 

980 

1,5jI  Lachine, 

0 

989 

1,.")UG  lloauharnois  Canal, 

15 

1,004 

1,402  Cornwall, 

44 

1,(H8 

1,440  OaDKS-suuufi,  N.  Y., 

52 

1,100 

1,402  KiNOBTO.v,  Can., 

38 

1,133 

Lake  O.vtario. 

1,242  Toronto, 

160 

1,208 

1,202  Mi.uth  Wolland  Canal, 

40 

1,338 

1,175   Wclland  Canal, 

27 

1,305 

Lake  Erie. 

805  Maiden,  Can., 

280 

1,G45 

875  Detroit,  Mich., 

20 

l,(il>5 

>  W  I'ort  Huron,  Mich., 

75 

1,740 

Lake  IIuron. 

570  PoiHt  do  Tour, 

230 

1,970 

520  Saut  Ste.  Marie, 

50 

2,020 

4S0  Whito  i'ish  I'oiut, 

40 

2,OCo 

Lake  Superior. 

3.J0  Marquette,  Midi., 

1.30 

2,190 

270  Kmvucnaw  I'oiut, 

80 

2,270 

170    Ontoinuau, 

100 

1,370 

80  Haylk-Kl, 

84 

i,4:a 

00  Duluth,  Minn., 

80 

2,640 

Note. — This  distance  could  bo  sliortennd  4")0 
niile.s  by  tlio  coniiilotiou  of  tho  proposed  Huron 
and  Ontario  Skip  Canal. 

Diatanco  from  Ciiicaoo  to  tho  Straits  ot 
Uello  Isle,  2,4(10;  from  Toledo,  Ohio,  1,700 
miloa,  from  Buffalo,  1,365  nilcs. 


Ifi'i 


Lower  St.  Lawrence  and  Saguehay  Rivers. 


The  Trip  down  the  noble  St.  Law- 
rence River,  passing  through  the 
Rapids  to  the  City  of  Montreal,  IGO 
miles,  is  one  of  the  most  exciting 
character.  The  excursion  from  Mon- 
treal to  Quebec,  170  miles,  is  also 
deeply  interesting,  passing  through 
Lake  St.  Peter.  The  river  thus  far 
being  from  a  half  to  one  mile  in  width. 

The  Trip  from  Quebec  to  the  far- 


famed  Saguenay  River,  140  miles,  is 
another  deeply  interesting  excursion, 
pas.sing  Murray  Hay,  80  miles ,  Ka- 
mouraska,  100  mi'es;  Riviere  du  Loup, 
120  miles,  arriving  at  Tadousac,  140 
miles,  where  the  river  is  30  miles  wide. 
At  the  Watering  Places  on  the  Lower 
St.  Lawrence,  are  several  well  kept 
Hotels,  being  much  frequented  during 
the  Summer  Months. 


I 


70 


BUFFALO  AND  NIAGARA  FALLS  TO  MONTREAL  AND  QUEBEC, 

Passinu  through  Lake  Oxtauio,  tho  Thousand  Islands,  and  dowu  thu  Kai'Ids 

ol"  tho  St.  Lawkence  Kivkk. 


American  Side. 


lHJl<'l<'Alit) Miles. 

Ai'w  i'oric  Central  R.R.. 

Ulaok  Uuck :! 

Jiujfalo  (^*  i\iagara  FuIIh  R.  R. 

TONAWANDA 8-11 

iSchlosser'M  Laiuling 10-21 

K  iat^iiraFallsVlllase  1-22 

NiAuAKA  City 2-'M 

Alio  York  Central  R.  R. 

liewi»toii 4-28 

Young.itown 7-U.> 

Fort  isiagura 1-jG 

Oak  Orchard  Creek — 

CUAKLOTXE,  Outport  fot 

Rochester 80-110 

rultuevvillo '20-l;iti 

Sodus  bay 

OSWEGO 40-170 

Mouth  ol  Oswego  River. 
Stoiioy  Point  &  islaud..34-'J10 
Sacket'sj  Hakbok 12-22'2 

Cape  Vincent 20-242 

JVatertown  4*  Rome  R.  R, 

Clayton 13-233 

Alexandria 16-2411 

Morristowu 20-2Gt> 

OGDEXSIIURGH  11-280 


Objects  of  Interest,  etc. 

i<'oot  ot°  Lalic  Erie. 
Kkik  Canal. 
Mlagara  Uiver. 

Grand  Ishmd,  A. 

Navy  Ishiud,  C. 

Gout  Island,  A. 

Falls  ol  Niagara.* 

Suspension  Uridine. 

Itapids  and  Whirlpool. 

Head  of  Navigation, 

Lake  Ontario,  180  uiilos  long 
AMEUiCAN  and  Canadian 
Stkameus  leave  Luwiston 
daily,  during  the  season  ol 
navigation,  for  Tor(jnto, 
Charlotte,  Oswego,  Kings- 
ton, and  other  Forts  on 
Lake  Ontario,  passing  dowu 
the  St.  Lawrence  Kiver  to 
Ogdeusburgh  and  I'rescott, 
Irom  thence  to  Mtjutreal. 
passing  through  all  the 
Itapids,  having  a  total  de- 
scent of  over  200  fei-t,  af- 
fording the  most  interesting 
e.xcursiou  on  the  Continent. 

TUOUSA.ND   LSLAJJDS. 

Wolf,  or  tJraud  Island,  Can. 
Howe  Island,  (lore  Isl'd.    '* 
Well's  Island,  New  York. 
Admiralty  Islands. 
Navy  Islands. 


Canada  Side. 


Nurthern  Railroad,  118  miles  Old  Friends  Group,  and  other 
to  Uoiise's  I'oint.  '     groups.f 


Fort  Erie Miles. 

Buffalo  4-  Luke  Huron  R.  R. 

Watekloo 3 

Steam  Ferry 

Chii'I'ewa 17-20 

Table  Uock 2-22 

Cl.IFTON 'i-2i 

Ureal  IVentern  Railway. 

Brock's  Monument 

Ql'KENSTO.N 4-28 

Niagara «_3(i 

Fort  Massasauga 

I'ort  Dalhousie 12-48 

llauiilton 32-80 

Tt)Ui)NT()  (direct)..  142-78 
(Jrand   Truuk  Railivuy. 

Itownianville 43-121 

I'our  Hoi'E lU-140 

CoBOUUO 8-148 

Long  Point 52-200 

Amherst  Island 30-230 

KINGSTON 12-242 

Fort  Henry 

Gananoque 18-238 

.Mallorytown 18-256 

Itrorkville 12-208 

liruckcille  .and  Ottawa  K.  R. 

Frescott 12-2SO 

Ottawa  and  Prescutl  R.  if.,  53 
miles  to  Ottawa  City. 


*  Situate  in  North  latitude  -13°  C,  and  West  longitude  2°  6'  from  Washington,  being  5i)4 
miles  al)ove  liiiebec. 

t  There  are  two  channels  through  these  numerous  and  roijiantic  Islands,  known  as  the 
American,  and  Canadian  Clunmeln.  The  formt-r  passes  near  Cape  Vincent, Clayton,  Alex- 
uuilvia,  etc.,  being  for  the  mojtpart  iu  American  waters,  attached  to  the  State  of  N.  York. 


TRAVELER  S   GUIDE. 


nil 


American  s»ide. 


Chimney  Inland 6-285 

Tibbet's  Island 

Isle  aux  Galops 2-287 

Lisbon 7-294 

Ogden'a  Island 4 -2'J8 

WADDiNaroK 2-300 

Goose  Neck  Island 

Chrysler's  Island 

Louisville  Landino.  .12-312 
Loui^  Sault  Island 4-316 

Barnhart's  Island 

SouTri  Side 

4')th  (ioi^reo  North  lat. . 

St.  llKiiis 12-328 

Squaw  Island 18-33G 

Beauharnois    Canal,   11 

miles 24-300 

Maclntyrc  Inland 

Maplu  Island 


Objects  of  Interest,  etc. 


Galops  Rapids,  14|  feet  de- 
scent. 

Uafid  Flat,  11^  feet  descent. 
Rapid  Deplau. 


Thorn  Island. . .. 

Pig  Island 

Broad  Island. .  . . 
La  Pierre  Island. 

Isle  I'Ail 

St.  Timothy...  . 
Isle  aux  Nois.. . . 


.5-3G5 


Bcaulianiois 8-373 


LoNi  Saitlt  Rapids,  48  feet 
descent. 


Boundary  Line  between  the 
United  States  and  Canada. 

L.vKE  St.  Fkancis,  25  miles  in 
length. 


Cote  AN  Rapids. 


Cbdar  Rapids 

Split  Rock  Rapids. 

Cascade  Rapid.s.* 

Mouth  of  the  Ottawa  River. 

Lakk  St.  Locis. 


Canada  )!>id«* 


Windmill  Point..... 
Isle  aux  Moutons. . . 
Drummond's  Island. 
Duck  Island 


.2-282 


Canal,  1  mile. 

Point  Cardinal 6-288 

Matilda 6-294 

Point  Iriquois 5-299 

Canal,  2  miles. 

Willi  AMSBUKU 2-;!0l 

Canal,  4  miles, 

( 'hl•y.■^ler's  l-'arm. . ., 4-305 

Cat  Island 

Karen's  Point 6-311 

(Janal,  3  miles. 

Dickinson's  Landing  .  .6-310 


(Janal,  11. V  miles. 
Sheek's  Island  . . 

Noin'H  Su)E 

L'uriiwall 


.10-326 


St.  Regis  Island 

Lancasteu 14-340 

Cotcau  du  Lac 17-357 

Giroux  Island 

French  Island 


Fi^h  Island 

Isle  aux  Vaches. 


Cedar  Village. 


io-3ev 


Isle  aux  Quacks 

Isle  de  la  (irand  Chute. . 

Point  aux  Moulin 

Isle  aux  Cascade 5-372 

Isle  Perrot  

Mouth  Ottawa  River 


The    North,    or    Canadian   Channel,    extends   from    Kingston,    passing    near    Ganan 
oque.     Si'veral   light-houses,  or  beacons,  have  been  erected  by  the  Canadian   authorities 
to  mark  this  intricate  channel,  which   is  stn(Mo(l  with   beautiful  groups  of  islands — the 
Fiddler^a  Elhuw.  the  Sisters,  and  the  Scotcli  Bonnet,  being  passes,  or  groups  of  islands,  ot 
the  most  romantic  character. 

*  The  above  four  rapids  arc  ascended  by  means  of  the  Beauhar-nois  Canal,  l.\J  miles  ia 
length,  with  locks,  overcoming  a  descent  of  84  feet. 


\4 


i 


u 


72 


TRAVELERS   GLIDE. 


AiiH-ricaii  i^idc. 

Objects  of  liitcrest,  etc. 

t'aiiudian  sSide. 

CAt°aiI.NAWA(iA 17-31H» 

Laciiing  Uai'Ids,  44j  feet  dc- 

bCt'Ut. 

Victokia  Diudor. 
Head  of  Navii;ation. 

St  Hok'irrt  l;.lilll(l. 

St.  Theresa  island. 

(■roup  of  Islands. 
Lakk  St.  rETEK,  23  niilea  in 

Ifiigth. 
Head  of  Tide  IVater,  90  miles 

above  (Quebec. 

Richelieu    Rapids,    45     liiles 
above  Quebec. 

Island  of  Okleans. 

Lachiiic 

18-390 

Montreal  ^  Plattaburgh  Ji.H. 

/slo  mix  DiitLle 

Canal,  hA  miles. 
Isle  aux  lU'iou. . . 
Nun's  Isiaiitl 

G-39G 

L\  I'kaiuik 8-30S 

Clutmpldin^Sl.  LamenceR.  li. 

LoNliLKfl M-4l»() 

Viirriiiii'S KJ-417 

Grand  'J'lunk  Railway. 

MONTHlOAIi 8-40i 

North  latitude  4J°  30'. 
L'Assuuiption 

Verc'ljure 

St.  Suipice 

I,a  Vitro 

Sorcl 20-447 

River  St.  Francis 

Dul'CKTTKS 40-1 8'.» 

Uektuieb 

Fond  du  Lac 

...  43-447 

Branch  Grand  Trunk  li.  R. 
Becaticour 

Three  Hi  vers.. 

Magdalen 

Batiscan 

42-489 

Gi'iitiily 

St.  i'ifre 

.   . . . 15-504 

Dechellons 

St.  Marie 

St.  Anne 

Point  aux  Trembl 
St.  Auirustino. . . . 

. . '.  io-5U 

Lothiniur 

es. . . . 

Bt,  (y'roix 

yt.  Aiitiiine 

Cape  Sante 

30-544 

t'haiuiltMe  Hiver 

Grand  Trunk  Railway. 
Point  litvi 574 

Cape  Rouge 

Wolfe's  Covo  .... 

auEiicc 

North  latitude  4G° 

20-514 

8-i^72 

2-574 

Steam  Feri-y. 

49'. 

Trip  to  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence  and  Saguenay  Rivers. 


The  noble  St.  Lawkence  Rivek,  which  is 
about  one  mile  wide  opposite  Quebec,  ex- 
tends a  distance  of  about  4U0  miks  when  it 
empties  into  the  Gulf,  widening  to  100  miles 
and  upwards  before  reaching  the  Island  of 
Auticosta. 

The  far-famed  Saouenay  River,  its  largest 
tributary,  enters  from  the  We.**"  about  140 
miles  below  Quebec,  the  P^.  Lawrence  here 
being  about  30  niDco  wide. 

At  il/K/T(/i/  Hay.  80  miles;  Kamouraska, 
lOU  miles;  Riviere  Du  Loup,  120  miles:  Ca- 


couna,  12G  miles;  and  the  Tadouaac,  140 
miles;  and  at  other  resorts,  or  Watering 
Places,  along  the  Ixiwer  St.  Lawrence,  are 
well  kept  Hotels,  where  soa-bathing  ai'd  fish- 
ing can  be  enjoyed  by  visitors  seeking  health 
and  pleasure  during  the  summer  months. 

During  warm  weather.  Steamers  run  every 
few  days  from  Montreal  and  Quebec  for  the 
Lower  St.  Lawrence  and  Sagucuay  Alivers, 
affording  one  of  the  most  romantic  and 
healthy  cxcursioua  oa  the  Cuutiuuut  of 
America. 


il   I'll 


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g.ij  .'inLllV.  i0>,  tllfc  fuMre  lld.ll;  half  «■''  ;r.r-      miDrf     I';     1.*    ti  "     I    r^.'l 

\y.>-  'i  :  .\f^}t^' ;   .'^)n ',  v.'iu':<'  tho  jHirily  .  f  i   »<•   \    d       .--li  a  .tui    >  ii   li>''   liti'    'l   t' 

■>!.    ,•'),  o'l 'j  re   viP8  ^^jlll  tlu-<  j.u'-ity  mV  ^^l^.-iv- — ,    '   \-r-x    i  aiili'-T'i    it     I'p'iKu:,.- 

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•  n.     Hiunfccteol  by  i'uvig.»)ile  riv<  !>  cr  '  ^ 

■  '^s.  :  ■  ■ 

'"  "  Sttite«,  waah'.d  t\v  • .  ■'  ; « .  .■>al  F^V  i  *     i.   w   iit     Mii'likf,  tJi.-  i:;ii')iti.'-t  (t;'i:    •<  .n.r 

«      S'  w  V(»iK',  rpco-yl/a.n,    'liiv),  Mi.ji-    .fiin'.  >tr»'.*"i.i^  h>iI  '  m  i  w  uh-  gji  !•     x- 

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litwei'T'  ^^o  Tni'-oii  otat-j?  nii.  th.'    wah'   C-  \)i"  -'mil      '   ri'    ;  •^■'    '>/i'.f,   .u 

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';h  c  ■•.!»»-  ling  river.!^  or  sTait-".  niin  dfiw  n  ,    ■  wv  -.."i  '  .•  ii  f  !iiii<  i'.  t  ,\  ■  i' 

•.' iSt       ■vr<-«c":.- 'liver  t   iliii  4f<tli  parw-    «hiii  oiiul      ,!u  cutltt.   i.    urn 

'    <,f    ;i>   tide.      JbVoQi  iiurno   tJ»»   Si      »?id    lunnt   •  •■''•oauj.  Pn.  'iij;i:tPif  -  i'Ua.- 

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I 


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^ 


> 


1^^ 


r      -1* 


78 


MAGNITUDE  OF  THE  LAKES,  OR  "  INLAND  SEAS."' 


NOTHING  but  a 
voyage  over  all  of 
[the  great  bodies  of 
'  water  forming  the 
"  Inland  Seas," 
loan  furnisli  the 
tourist,  or  scienti  lie 
explorer,  a  just 
idea  of  the  extent, 
depth,  and  dear- 
ness  of  the  waters 
of  the  (ireat  Lakes  of  Aniorica,  together 
with  tlio  Jiealthy  influence,  fertility,  and 
romantic  beauty  of  the  numerous  islands, 
and  surrounding  shores,  forming  a  circuit 
of  about  4,009  miles,  witli  an  area  of 
90,000  square  miles,  or  about  twice  the 
extent  of  the  State  of  New  York — ex- 
tending through  eight  degrees  of  ktitude, 
and  sixteen  degrees  of  longitude — this 
region  embracing  the  entire  nortli  half  of 
the  temperate  zone,  where  the  purity  of 
tlie  atmosphere  vies  with  tiio  purity  of 
tliese  extensive  waters,  or  "  Inland  Seas," 
being  connected  by  navigable  rivers  or 
straits. 

Tlie  States,  washed  by  the  Great  Lakes, 
are  New  York,  Pennsylvania,  Oh'  Mich- 
igan, Indiana,  Illinois.  "Wisconsin,  Alinne- 
Rota,  and  Upper  (\'inada — the  boundary 
line  between  the  United  States  and  the 
"British  Possessions  running  through  the 
centre  of  Lakes  Superior.  Huron,  St. 
Clair,  Erie,  and  Ontario,  together  with 
the  connecting  rivers  or  straits,  and  down 
the  St.  Lawrence  River  co  tlie  45th  paral- 
lel of  latitude.  From  thence  tlio  St. 
Lawrence  tiows  in  a  northeast  direction 
through  Canada  into  the  Uulf  of  St.  Law- 


rence. The  romantic  beauty  of  the  rapids 
of  this  noble  stream,  and  its  majestic  tlow 
through  a  healthy  and  rich  section  of 
country,  is  unsurpassed  for  grand  lake 
and  river  scener}'. 

Luke  ^iiiperior,  the  largest  of  tho 
Inland  Seas,  lying  between  4C  '60'  and 
4!)-'  north  latitude,  and  between  84"  30' 
and  92"^  30'  west  longitude  from  Oreen- 
wich,  is  situated  at  a  height  of  GOO  feet 
above  tlio  (iulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  from 
which  it  is  distant  about  l,hOO  miles  by 
tlie  course  of  its  outlet  and  the  St.  Law- 
rence river.  It  is  460  miles  long  from 
east  to  west,  and  170  miles  broad  in  its 
widest  part,  with  an  average  breadth  of 
85  miles;  the  entire  circuit  being  about 
1,200  miles.  It  is  000  feet  in  greatest 
depth,  extending  300  feet  below  the  level 
of  the  ocean.  Estimated  area,  31,500 
square  miles,  being  by  far  the  largest 
body  of  fresli  water  on  the  face  of  tho 
globe — celebrated  alike  for  its  sparkling 
purity,  romantic  scenery,  and  healthy  iu- 
lluence  of  its  surrounding  climate.  About 
one  hundred  rivers  and  cr^'oks  are  said  to 
lk)W  into  the  lake,  the  greatest  part  being 
small  streams,  and  but  few  navigable  ex- 
cept for  canoes,  owing  to  numerous  falls 
and  ."apids.  It  discharges  its  waters  east- 
ward, by  the  strait,  or  river  St.  Mmij.  GO 
miles  long,  into  Lake  Huron,  which  lies 
2G  feet  below,  there  being  about  2(i  feet 
descent  at  tho  Saut  Ste  Marii',  which  is 
overcmne  by  means  of  two  locks  and  a 
ship  canal.  Its  outlet,  is  a  most  lovely 
and  romantic  stream,  embosoming  a  num- 
ber of  large  and  fertile  islard.i,  covered 
witi'  a  rich  foliage. 


I 


II 


I 


n 


!.T- 


74 


MAGNITUDE    OF    THE    LAKES. 


Lake  IflScillffail,  lying  576  fl.  above 
tho  soa.  is  320  niilos  long,  85  niil(>H  broad, 
ami  700  feet  deep;  area,  22.000  square 
nules.  This  lake  lies  wholly  within  tlie 
ooniines  of  the  United  States.  It  pre- 
sents a  large  expanse  of  water,  with  but 
i'ew  islands,  exeept  near  its  entrance  into 
the  Straits  of  Maekinac,  tlirough  whieli  it 
discharges  its  surplus  waters.  The  strait 
is  30  or  40  miles  in  length,  and  diseiiarges 
its  accumulated  waters  into  Lake  Huron, 
on  nearly  a  level  with  Lake  Micliigan. 
At  the  north  end  of  the  lake,  and  in  the 
Straits,  are  several  large  and  romantic 
islands,  affording  delightful  resort.s. 

Cirecil  Hay,  a  mo.^t  beautiful  ex- 
panse of  water,  containing  sevend  small 
islands,  lies  at  about  tlie  same  elevation 
as  Lake  Michigan;  it  is  100  miles  long, 
20  miles  Inroad,  and  60  feet  deep ;  area, 
2,000  square  miles.  This  is  a  remarkably 
pure  body  of  water,  presenting  lovely 
shores,  surrounded  by  a  fruitful  and 
healthy  section  of  country. 

I^ake  llliroBl,  lying  at  i  height  of 
574  feet  above  the  sea,  i^*  250  miles  long, 
100  miles  broad,  and  750  feet  greatest 
depth;  area,  21,000  square  miles.  This 
lake  is  almost  entirely  free  of  i.slands, 
presenting  a  large  expanse  of  jKire  water. 
Its  most  remarkable  feature  is  Saginaw 
liay,  lying  on  its  western  border.  The 
waters  of  this  lake  are  now  whitened  by 
tho  sails  of  commerce,  it  being  tlie  great 
thorouglifare  to  and  from  Lakes  Michigan 
and  Superior. 

<jiC4»r$;iail  Hay,  lying  northeast  of 
Lake  Huron,  and  of  the  same  altitude, 
being  separated  by  i.slands  and  headlands, 
ies  wholly  within  the  contines  of  Canada. 
It  is  140  miles  long.  55  miles  broad,  and 
500  feet  in  depth;  area,  5,000  square 
miles.  In  the  North.  C/iannc/,  wliich  com- 
municates with  St.  Mary's  River,  and  in 
Georgian  Bay,  are  innumerable  islands 
and  islets,  forming  an  interesting  and  ro- 
mantic feature  to  this  pure  body  of  water. 
All  the  above  bodies  of  water,  into  which 


'  are  discharged  a  great  number  of  Ptreams, 
find  an  outlet  by  the  River  St.  Clair,  com- 
mencing at  the  foot  of  Lake  Huron, 
where  it  has  only  a  width  of  1,000  feet, 
and  a  depth  of  from  20  to  60  feel,  tlowing 
with  a  rapid  current  downward,  38  miles, 
into 

Lake  SI.  Ciair,  which  is  25  miles 

long  and   about  as  many  broad,  with  a 

sniiill  depth  of  water;  the  most  difficult 

i  navigation  being  encountered  in  passing 

i  over  "  St.  Clair  Flats,^^  where  now  about 

:  14  feet  of  water  is  afforded.    Ihtroit  Jiivtr, 

27  miles  in  length,  is  the  recipient  of  all 

tlie  above    waters,    flowing    southward 

through  .'i  fme  section  of  country  into 

liako  Eri«S  the  fourth  great  lake 
of  this  immense  chain.  This  latter  lake 
again,  at  an  elevatitm  above  tho  sea  of 
564  feet,  250  miles  L)ng,  60  miles  broad, 
and  204  feet  at  its  greatest  depth,  but,  on 
an  average,  considerably  less  than  100 
feet  deep,  diseiiarges  its  surjJus  waters  by 
tlie  Niagara  River  and  Falls,  into  Lake 
Ontario,  330  feet  below;  51  feet  of  this 
descent  being  in  the  rapids  immediately 
above  the  i'alls,  160  feet  at  the  Falls 
tiiemselves,  and  tlie  rest  chiefly  in  tho 
rapids  between  tJie  Falls  and  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  35  miles  below  Lake  Erie. 
This  is  comparatively  a  shallow  body  of 
water;  and  tiie  relative  deptlis  of  the 
great  .series  of  lakes  may  be  illustrated 
by  saying,  that  the  suri)his  waters  poured 
from  tlie  vast  basins  of  Superior,  Michi- 
gan, and  Hunm,  llowacrossthe  j)/';/eof  Frie 
into  the  ileep  homl  o(  Ontario.  Lake  Erie 
is  reiiuted  to  be  the  only  one  of  the  series 
in  wiiich  any  current  is  perceptible.  The 
fact,  if  it  is  one,  is  usually  ascribed  to 
its  shallowness;  but  the  vast  volumo  of 
its  outlet — the  Niagara  River — with  its 
strong  current,  is  a  much  more  favorable 
cause  than  the  small  depth  of  its  water, 
which  may  be  far  more  appropriately  ad- 
duced as  tlie  reason  why  the  navigation 
is  obstructed  by  i<r  much  more  than  either 
of  tho  other  great  lakes. 


li 


LAKE    ONTAHIO TRIDUTARIES    OF    TFIE    LAKK8. 


75 


The  ascertained  temperature  in  the  mid- 
dle of  Lake  Erie,  August,  1845,  was  tem- 
perature of  air  Hi"'  Faiirenheit,  at  noon — 
water  at  surface  73""' — at  bottom  53"^. 

I^ake  Ontario,  tliey(/'t/t  and  last 
of  tlie  (Jreat  Lakes  of  America,  is  eleva- 
ted 2;M:  feet  above  tide- water  at  Three 
Rivers  on  the  St.  Lawrence ;  it  is  180 
miles  long,  GO  miles  broad,  (500  feet  deep. 

Tlius  hd.sin  succeeds  banin,  like  the  locks 
of  a  great  canal,  tlio  whole  length  of 
waters  from  Lake  Superior  to  the  IJulf  of 
St.  Lawrence  being  rendered  navigable 
for  vessels  of  a  large  class  by  means  of 
the  W'elland  and  St.  Lawrence  canals — 
thus  enabling  a  loaded  vessel  to  asceml  or 
descend  600  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
ocean,  or  tide- water.  Of  these  live  great 
laires,  Lake  Superior  has  by  far  the  larg- 
est area,  and  Lake  Ontario  has  the  least, 
havmg  a  surface  only  about  one-lifth  of 
tliac  of  Lake  Superior,  and  being  some- 
what less  in  area  than  Lake  Erie,  although 
not  much  less,  if  any,  in  the  circuit  of  its 
shores.  Lake  Ontario  is  the  safest  body 
of  water  for  navigation,  and  Lake  Erie 
the  most  dangerous.  Tlie  lakes  of  great- 
est interest  to  the  tourist  or  scienlilie 
traveler  are  Ontario,  Huron,  together  with 
Georgian  Bay  and  North  Channel,  ami 
Lake  Superior.  The  many  picturesque 
islands  and  headlands,  together  with  the 
pure  dark  green  waters  of  the  Upper 
Lakes,  form  a  most  lovely  contrast  during 
the  summer  and  autumn  months. 

The  altitude  of  the  land  which  forms 
the  water-shed  of  the   Ujipcr  Lakes  does 


not  exceed  from  GOO  to  2,500  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  ocean,  while  the  altitude 
of  the  land  which  forms  the  water-shed 
of  Lake  Champlain  and  the  lower  tribu- 
taries of  the  St.  Lawrence  River  rises 
from  4,000  to  5,000  above  the  level  of  tho 
sea  or  tide-water,  in  the  States  of  Ver- 
mont and  New  York. 

The  divide  which  separates  the  waters 
of  tiie  Oulf  of  Mexico,  from  those  llow- 
ing  northeast  into  tho  St.  Lawrence,  do 
not  in  some  i)laces  exceed  ten  or  twenty 
feet  above  the  level  of  Lakes  Michigan 
and  S\iperior;  in  fact,  it  is  said  tliat  Lako 
Michigan,  when  under  the  inlluenco  of 
high  water  and  a  strong  northerly  wind, 
discharges  some  of  its  surplus  waters  into 
the  Illinois  River,  and  thence  into  tho 
Mississippi  and  Oulf  of  Mexico — so  low 
is  the  divide  at  its  southern  terminus. 

When  we  consider  tho  magnitude  of 
these  (Jreat  Lakes,  the  largest  body  of 
fresh  water  on  the  globe,  being  connected 
by  navigable  Straits,  or  catv.ils,  we  may 
quote  with  emphasis  tho  words  of  an 
English  writer:  '"How  little  are  tliey 
aware,  in  Europe,  of  the  extent  of  com- 
merce upon  these  'Inland  Seas,'  whoso 
toasts  are  now  lined  with  nourishing 
towns  and  cities ;  whose  waters  are  plow- 
ed witli  maguiticent  steamers,  and  hund- 
reds of  vessels  crowded  with  merchandise! 
Even  tho  Americans  tiiemselves  are  not 
fully  aware  (»f  tlie  rising  importance  of 
tliese  great  lakes,  as  connected  with  tho 
Far  West. 


TRIBUTARIES  OF  THE  GREAT  LAKES  AND  ST.  LAWRENCE 

RIVER. 


Unlike  the  tributaries  of  the  Mississip- 
pi, the  streams  falling  into  tiie  (ireat  Lakes 
or  t.h,'   St.  Lawrence  River  are   mostly 
rapid,  and  naviga))le  only  for  a  short  dis- 1 
tauce  from  thoir  muutlui,  I 


The  following  are  the  principal  Rivera 
that  are  navigable  for  any  considerable 
length : 


'•■i 


fti 


m 


\m 


"i^ 


m 


'■I 

<! 

I 


76 


MAGNITUDE    OF   THE    LAKES. 


AMKUICAN  SIDE.  MUeS. 

St.  Louis  River,  Min Ru|iorior  to  Fond  du  Lac 20 

Fox,  or  N'l'ciiali,  Wis ( Ireen  ]5av  to  Liiko  Winnebago* 36 

St.  J«)so]ih,  Midi St.  Joseiih  to  Nilcs 2G 

CJrand  River,   "  ( 1  rand  Haven  to  (1  rand  Rapids 40 

Mu.'ikegon,       "  Miiskegnn  to  Newaygo 40 

vSaginaw           ''  Saginaw  l^ay  to  Upiier  Saginaw 26 

Maiiinec,  Ohio   Maiiniee  Hay  to  I'erry.sburgh 18 

(Jeneseo,  X.  Y ....    Ciiarlotte  to  Rochester 6 

CANADIAN   SIliK.  MileS. 

Thames Lake  St.  Clair  to  C'liatham 24 

Ottawa La  Chino  to  Carillon 40 

"       {liij  ineatis  of  lurLs  to  flttava  Citi/)\. . .  70 

Richelieu  or  Sorel Sorel  to  Lai<('  Ciiainplaiu  {l»j  locks)  75 

Sagueuay Tadusac  to  Ciiieoutimi 70 

(thence  to  Lake  St.  John,  50  m.) 


LAKE  AND  RIVER  NAVIGATION, 


FROM    FOND    DU    LAC,    LAKE   SO'KUIOIt,    TO   TIIK   OLI  F    OF   ST, 
LAKEfl.  UlVKRS,  ETC.  ^'1"  jl.!!,.'" 

Superior 4G0 

St.  Mary'.s  River GO 

Miohigiin 320 


(<n'iit('.><t 

briMiltli. 

170 


Ore  en  Ray. 

Strait  of  Mackinac 

Huron 

North  Channel 

Cleorgiau  Rav 

St.  Clair  Hiver 

Lake  St.  Clair* 

Detroit  River 

Krie   

Niagara  Itiver 

Ontario 

St.  Lawrence  River.  ...   

Lake  St.  Franei.^,  foot  LongSaut. .  . 
Lake  St.  Louis,  foot  Cascade  Rapida 

At  Montreal 

Lsiko  St.  Teter 

Tide- water  at  Three  Rivers 

At  Quebec 


100 

40 

250 

150 

140 

38 

25 

27 

250 

35 

180 

7G0 


85 
25 
20 
100 
20 
55 

H 
25 

3 

70 
3 

58 
100 


Av. 

bri'ailtli. 

85 

2 
58 
18 
10 
70 
10 
40 

1 
18 

1 
40 

1 
40 

2 

4 

6 

8 
12 

1 

1 


LAWRENCE. 

El.  nbovo 


10 


20 

20 

20 
10 
10 


Depth 

ill  IVt't. 

'JOO 
to  100 

700 

100 
to  200 

700 
to  200 

500 
to  GO 
to  20 
to    60 

200 

GOO 


coo  ft. 

57G  " 

57G  " 

575  " 

674  '* 

574  " 

574  " 

5G8  " 


5G4  " 

234  " 

142  " 

58  " 

13  " 

6  " 

0  " 

0  •• 


Total  miles  navigation 2,835 

♦  Bv  means  iif  17  loeks,  oviTcominx  nil  elevation  of  170  fert 

t 'I'lie  iiaviiratioii  tor  «te:miern  i'\teiiils  l.V)  miles  above  Ottawn  City,  by  means  of  portnpcn  andlocki 

*  'I'lie  Sf.  ( '/<iir  Flutn.  wbieh  liave  to  In'  pa.i^st'd  by  all  lurtje  steuinors  unil  sail  vessels  running  from 
Luke  Eriu  to  tltu  Ujipur  Laken,  iiuw  iitlurUs  thirtutm  I'uct  of  water. 


I 


ALTITIDES — TOI'OOHAPHY    AND    METKOKoLOOT. 


ALTITUDE  OF  VARIOUS  POINTS  ON  THE  SHORES 

SUPERIOR. 

I^)rAi.iTiB«.  Above  Like  Superior. 

Lako  Superior 000  ft-ct. 

Point  Iroquois,  South  Slioro 350     " 

GroH  Cap,  0.  \V.,  North  Siioro 700     " 

Grand  Sablo,  South  Shore 345     " 

ricturcd  Uo.;ka,  "  2:.0     " 

Iron  MouMtiiin  "  HW     " 

Huron  Mountains      "  1,400     " 

Mount  Houghton,  noar  Kowocnaw  Point 1,000     " 

Porcupine  Mountains,  Soutii  Shore 1,.'{80     " 

Isle  Uoyale,   MicliiKan 300     " 

Minnesota  Mountains  (estimated) 1.200     " 

Mi('hipicoten  Island,  0.  W 800     " 

Pio  Island,  "     s:.0     " 

St.  Ignaeo  (estimated)    "     1,200     " 

McKav's  Mountain,        "     1,200     " 

Thunder  Cape,  "     1,350     " 


OF  LAKE 

Above  the 

».•*. 

mo  feet 

•i.'iO 

1,300 

'J45 

8.^.0 

l,4-)0 

2,(100 

1.600 

1,980 

9,^0 

1,800 

1,400 

l,4.n0 

1.800 

1,S00 

«i 

1,950 

M 

*-  ' 


TOPOGRAPHY  AND  METEOROLOGY. 


"The  mountains  of  tho  region  along 
the  Houtli  sliore  of  Lako  Superior,  con.sist 
of  two  granite  belts  in  the  nortliwest,  tlie 
Ilurnn  Mountains  to  the  southward,  a  trap 
range  starting  from  the  head  of  Kewee- 
naw Point,  and  running  wi'St  and  south- 
west into  Wisconsin,  tlie  I'oraiiiinc.  Mmn- 
taiiii,  ami  tlie  detrital  rocks.  The  Huron 
Mountains  in  places  attain  an  elevation  of 
1,  too  feet  above  tho  Lako.  The  highest 
elevation  attained  by  the  Porcupine  Moun- 
tains is  1,380  feet. 

"Meteorological  observations  were  in- 
stituted by  order  of  the  Government  at 
three  military  posts  in  tho  District,  viz. : 
Forts  Wilkius  (('opper  Harbor),  Brady, 
and  Mackinac.  From  these  observations 
it  appears  that  the  mean  annual  tempera- 
ture of  Fort  Brady  is  al)out  one  degree 
lower  than  that  of  Fort  Wilkins,  althnugli 
the  latter  post  is  nearly  a  degree  furtiier 
north.  This  dift'erence  arises  from  the 
insular  position  of  Keweenaw  Point, 
which  is  surrounded  on  three  sifles  by 
water.     Tlie  climate  at  Fort  Brady,  dur- 


ing tho  whole  sea.son,  corresponds  in  a 
remarkable  degree  with  that  of  St.  Peters- 
burg. The  temperature  of  tiie  region  is 
very  f.ivorable  to  the  growth  of  cereals. 
The  annual  ratio  nf  fair  days  at  Fort 
Brady  is  108;  of  cloudy  days,  77;  rainy 
days,  71;  snowy  days.  47. 

"  The  temi)erature  of  the  water  of  Lake 

j  .Superior  during  tiie  summer,  a  fatliom  or 
two  below  the  surface,  is  but  a  few  d<'- 
grces  above  the  freezing  point.  In  the 
western  portion,  the  water  is  much  colder 
than  in  tin-  eastern — the  surface  Mow  bt^- 
Coming  wanner  as  it  advances  toward  th 
outlet.  Tho  mirage  whieli  freipiently  oo 
cura,  is  occasioned  by  the  diderence  be- 
tween the  temperature  of  tiio  air  and  the 
Lake.  Great  didieulties  are  experienced 
from  this  '-.ixiso  in  making  astronomical 

I  oliservations. 

"Auroras,  even  in  midsummer,  are  of 
frequi'nt  occurrence,  and  exhibit  a  bril- 
liancy rarely  observed  in  lower  latitudes." 
— Foster  tfc  Whitney's  lieporK 


I 


■TT 


7« 


MAGNITUDE    OF    TFIR    LAKES. 


THE  UPPER  LAKES,  OR  "INLAND  SEA,"  OF  AMERICA. 


This  appellation  ai)plii's  lo  Lake>^  Hu- 
ron,   Michigan,    and   Superior,    including 
Green  Ha\',  lying  within  the  conline.-^  of 
the   United  Stales,    and   Georgian   IJay,  I 
whii'h  lies  entirely  in  Canada. 
J   These  bodies  of  water  embrace  an  area 
of  about  7.'), 000  square  miles,  and,  as  a  j 
whole,  are  deserving  of  the  name  of  the  ! 
'IXLAND  Ska,'  being  closely  connected  by 
Blrails  or  water-coiu-ses,  uavi^ible  for  the 
largest  class  of  steamers  or  sail  vessels. 
Tho   shores,  although  not  elevated,  are 
bold,  and   free   from   marsh  or  swampy 
lands,  presenting  one  clean  range  of  coast 
for  aliout  3.000  miles. 

By  a  late  decision  of  the  Supreme 
Court  of  the  U.  States,  tho  Upper  Lakes 
including  Lake  Erie,  with  their  connect 
ing  waters,  were  declared  to  be  seas,  com- 
mercially and  legally.  Congress,  under 
this  decision,  is  empowered  to  improve 
the  harbors  of  the  lakes  and  tho  connect- 
ing straits,  precisely  as  it  has  power  to 
do  tho  same  on  the  seaboard.  This  will 
probably  lead  to  a  vigorous  policy  in  the 
raaintcnanoo  of  Federal  authority,  both  in 
improving  the  harbors,  and  making  pro- 
vision for  tho  safety  of  commerce,  and 
protection  of  life,  as  Avell  as  guarding 
against  foreign  invasion.  The  only  forti- 
fication of  importance  that  is  garrisoned 
is  Fort  Maclcinac,  guarding  tho  passage 
through  the  Straits  of  Maci<inac. 

The  islands  of  these  lakes  are  nuraer- 
ous,  particularly  in  tho  Straits  of  Mackinac, 
and  in  Georgian  Bay  retaining  tho  same 
Vjold  and  virgin  appearance  as  the  main- 
land; most  of  them  are  fertile  and  sus- 
ceptible of  high  cultivation,  although,  as 
yet,  but  few  aro  inhabited  to  anv  consid- 
erable extent. 


The  dark  green  waters  of  the  Upper 
Lakes,  when  agitated  by  a  storm,  or  tho 
moiion  of  a  passing  steamer,  presents  a 
l)rilliancy  {)cculiar  only  to  these  trans- 
parent waters — they  then  assume  the  ad- 
mixture of  white  foam,  with  a  lively  green 
tinge,  assuming  a  crystal-like  appearance. 
In  this  pure  water,  the  vhitf  Jisli.  and 
other  species  of  the  finny  trilie,  delight 
to  gamliol,  allbrding  the  sportsman  and 
epicurean  untold  ])leasure,  which  is  well 
described  in  the  Ibllowing  poem: 

THE  WHITE  FISH. 

TTenry  R.  Schoolcraft,  in  his  poem. 
"The  White  Fish,"  says: 

"All  fricnilsto  trooil  livlnjj  t-y  fiiroon  nnd  dish, 
Concur  ill  cxiiltinc  this  [iriVioo  <>f  »  fl^■ll ; 
So  liiu"  in  !i  |il:itti-r,  so  tniiiitinir  a  try. 
So  rich  nil  a  irridiioii.  so  sweet  in  a  pic; 
Th.'it  even  hirorc  it  tlie  salmon  iiiiistrnll, 
Ao'l  that  ini).'lity   bonnt-lmuche^  of  tho  land 
beaver's  tail. 

•  «  4>  * 
'Tis  a  morsel  nlike  for  the  C(inrinan<1  or  faster, 

While,  whitens  a  ta'.'let  of  jmre  aiatmsterl 
Its  luaiity  or  flavor  no  person  ran  doni't, 
When  Seen  in  the  watiT  or  tasted  w  ilhout; 
And  all  tliedis|nite  tliat  opinion  ere  innkes 
Of  this  kiii)^  of  bkc  flslies,   this  'deer  of  th» 

lak-iK.'* 
RcL'aril  not  its  clioieenes?.  to  poiuler  or  sup. 
Hut  tho  best  nioile  of  dressing'  and  serving'  it  up 

*  «  «  4> 
Here  too.  1)1  iirhf  n  fancy  to  deseant  inclined. 
Coiiteiiiplale  the  love  ihat  pertains  to  the  kind, 
Anil  Iwinc  up  the  red  man,  in  laiieifiil  strains, 
To  pr(>v<!  its-creation  from  feminine  braiii.'5."t 

♦  A  translation  of  Ad-dik--keem-mii{g,thela' 
dian  name  for  this  flsh. 

t  Vide  "  ludlun  Tales  and  Legends." 


FI3H    OK   TUB    UPPKH    LAKES. 


FISH  OF  THE  UPPER  LAKES. 


70 


'•  Tlio  numbers,  varieties,  and  cxcelleat 
quality  of  lake  tisli  are  wdrtiiy  nf  iiotiee. 
It  ia  believed  that  no  fres;ii  waters  i<no\vn 
can,  in  any  respect,  bear  ooniparison. 
Tliey  are,  with  some  exceptions,  of  the 
Bailie  l\ind  in  all  tlie  lalves.  Those  found 
in  Lake  Superior  and  the  straits  of  >Sl. 
ilary  are  of  tlie  beat  (luality,  owing  to  the 
cooler  temperature  of  the  water.  Tlieir 
quantities  are  Burpri.sing.  and  apparently 
Bo  inexhaustible,  as  to  warrant  tlie  i)elicf 
tliat  were  a  population  of  millions  to  in- 
lial)it  the  lake  shore,  they  would  furnisli 
an  ample  supply  of  thia  article  of  food 
•witiiout  any  sensible  diminution.  There 
oi'e  Several  kinds  found  in  Lake  Superior, 
and  some  of  the  most  delicious  quality, 
that  are  not  found  in  tlie  lakes  below,  as 
the  siskowit  and  muckwaw,  whicli  grow 
to  the  weight  of  eight  or  ten  pounds. 
The  salmon  and  some  others  are  found  in 
Ontario,  but  not  above  the  Falls  of  Niag- 
ara. 

"  The  following  is  a  very  partial  list  of 
a  few  of  tiio  prominent  varieties:  the 
while  liah,  Mackinac  and  salmon-trout, 
sturgeon,  niuscalunje,  siskowit,  pickerel, 
pike,  perch,  herring,  white,  black,  and 
rock  bass,  cat,  pout,  eel-pout,  buU-licad, 
roach,  sun-lish,  dace,  suckcT,  car}),  mullet, 
bill-lish.sword-tish,  bull-lish.  stone-carrier, 
Bheeps-head.  gar,  Ac. 

"The  lamprey-eel  is  found  in  all,  but 
t]ie  common  eel  is  found  in  neither  of  the 
lakes,  nor  in  any  of  their  tributaries,  except 
one.  The  weight  to  which  some  of  these 
attain  is  not  exceeded  by  tiie  lish  of  any 
other  inland  fresh  waters,  except  the  Mia- 
Bissippi.     *  *  *  * 

"The  fish  seem  to  bo  more  numerous 
some  years  than  others,  and  likewise  of 
better  quaUty.  The  kinds  best  for  pick- 
ling and  export  are  the  white  lish,  Mack- 
inac and  salmon  trout,  sturgeon,  and 
pickerel.  The  fisheries  at  which  these 
are  oaught  are  at  Mackinac,  at  several 


points  in  each  of  tlio  four  str.iits,  tho 
southeast  part  of  Ijake  Superior.  Thunder 
Hay,  Saginaw  Hay,  and  Fort  (Iratiot  near 
foot  of  Lake  Huron.  The  s])ort  of  taking 
the  lu-ook  trout,  which  are  found  in  great 
aiiiuidance  in  the  rapids  at  tlie  Saut  Ste 
Marie,  and  most  all  of  the  streams  falling 
into  the  Upper  Lake.s,  allbriis  healthful 
amusement  to  hundreds  of  amateur  tisli- 
ermen  (hiring  the  sutiim(>r  and  fall  months. 
The  modes  of  taking  the  ditlerent  kinds  of 
lish  are  in  si'ines,  dip-nets,  and  gill-nets, 
and  the  trout  w  ith  hooks. 

"  T'hose  engaged  in  catching  fish  in  tho 
Straits  of  Mackinac,  are  composed  of 
Americans,  Irish,  French,  half  breeds, 
and  Indians.  Some  are  employed  by  cap- 
italists, others  have  their  own  boats  and 
nets.  Each  one  is  furnished  with  a  boat, 
and  from  lifty  to  one  hundred  nets,  re- 
quiring constantly  two  or  three  men  for 
each  boat,  to  run  the  ditt'erent  gangs  of 
nets.  Tho  ti.sh  caught  are  jirincipally 
white  fish,  with  some  trout.  Tlie  demand 
for  ex|)ortation  increases  every  year,  and 
although  immense  (piantitiea  are  caught 
every  season,  still  no  diminution  in  their 
number  is  jierccived. 

"  A  fleet  of  two  hundred  fish-boats  are 
engaged  in  and  about  the  Straits,  em- 
bracing, however,  all  tho  Beaver  group. 
Each  lioat  will  average  one  barrel  of  lish 
per  day  during  the  fishing  season. 
*  «  *  «  « 

"  Ye,  who  are  fond  of  sport  and  fun, 
who  wish  for  wealth  and  strength;  ye, 
who  love  angling;  ye,  wlio  believe  that 
God  haa  given  us  u  time  to  pray,  a  time 
to  dance,  &c.,  &c.,  go  to  these  fishing- 
grounds,  gain  health  and  strength,  and 
pull  out  Mackinac  trout  from  20  to  40  lbs. 
in  weight.  One  hook  and  lino  has,  in 
three  to  four  hours,  pulled  out  enough  to 
fill  three  to  four  barrels  of  fish,  without 
taking  the  sport  into  consideration. 

"Yours,  W.  M.  J.' 


I; 


80 


THE  INTERNATIONAL  BRIDGE. 


Tnis  important  work  wjus  com- 
meiu't'd  in  May,  1870,  iuiil  completed 
in  tlie  latter  part  of  lS7;i,  being  now 
open  for  trafHc.  It  is  an  iron  snper- 
Htrn<tiire  hnilton  Htone  piers  in  the  most 
Bubstantiai  manner,  extending  from 
lilack  Rock,  Hniliiio,  across  tiie  Niag- 
ara River  to  the  Canadian  side.  The 
Avidth  of  the  river  being  broken  by 
S(pi:i  w  Island,  at  tliis  point  it  was  fonnd 
tliat  t!ie  main  river  measured  1,894 
feet,  and  Rlack  Rock  Harbor  H")  feet, 
or  a  total  of  2,.3I50  feet  to  be  bridged  ; 
wiiile  Stpiaw  Island  is  crossed  by  an 
embankment  25  feet  in  height  and  1,328 


I  feet  in  length.     There  are  two  open- 
ings for  the   passage  of  vessels.     The 
[   «lepth  of  water  here  varies  from  \'A  to 
1   47  feet  at  the  points  for  the  piers,  and 
I  the  normal  current  at  low  water  from 
I  2.58  to  5.12  miles  per  hour, 
!        'V\w  Great  Wrt^teni  lidilirdy^ihvGrdnd 
I    Trunk  HdiluHty,  and  tlie  Cuaiulu  South- 
cm  Railway  all  run  westward  from  the 
I   International    IJridge,    while    on    the 
I    American   side   of   the    river    all    the 
Railroads  diverging  from  Hnli'alo  have 
a  connection,  allbnling  innnense  facili- 
ties for  both   Eastern    and    Western 
traffic. 


GRAIN  TRADE  OP  BUFFALO. 


In  order  to  show  the  rapid  increase 
of  the  carrying  trade  of  IJuflalo,  by  rail- 
road and  lake,  we  insert  the  following 


Table  showing  the  shipment  of  grain 
and  flour  since  the  year  1841. 


Grain  Includinq  Flour  as  Wheat. 


Qniin,  Grain,  ineFif 

liimh.  Flour,  l>u»h. 

1841 1,S.'>2,3'25  r,,r,<\'2.r<2r, 

1H42 'i.dlA.O'iS  6,(W7,4r.H 

lK4:i 2,urc,,o->r)  6,f42,(iio 

iH+i '2,:av><w  «".n(i,7is 

1S4:. i,H4s,(>4<)  r,,rm,TM) 

184(5 6,4!»V-J2  i:«.;wr,,if,7 

1H47 9,H(!S,IS7  1!»,I:.:?,1K7 

1848 7,;i'.)(i,(il2  14,041,012 

1849 8,ri2S,oi3  i4,nr.r.,iK8 

IHSO fi,tilS.f)(t4  12,(i;.(t,">.V,» 

1851 11,44!M!<>1  17,74(1.781 

18,">2 i;j,:v.i2.;t:i7  2(t.:i'.K>.ri(4 

18,-.:j 11,(178,741  i.-i.or.r,,r.2t5 

18.'>4 i8,r>.'-i;u-'r>  22.2r.2,2:J.5 

\Hr,r> l!»,78s,47;i  24,472.278 

18r)(j 2(i,l2;5,(!n7  2.'>,7r.:t,!i()7 

1857 16,348,930  19,578,095 


Brain,  0rain,  incl'ij 

hunh.  fliiur,  hush. 

IRIft 20,202,244  20,812.080 

1859 14,42'.),(M!9  2I,5:((i,722 

18(U) 31.441,440  37,o.'">:i.ll5 

18()1 ,5(),(U!2,»>40  f)l,4(Ui,r.()l 

1802 .'^8,042,344  72,872,4.'i4 

18()3 4it,H+r),(ir)5  04,73  ■i.rilO 

1804 41.(44,(190  51,177.140 

1805 42,473,223  51,415,188 

1800 51,82(1,342  58,38S,(IS7 

1807 43,()7!t,(i79  50,108.074 

1808 42.573,125  6(»,l!t7,2t5 

1809 37,450,131  45,4.S9..'70 

1870 38,208,039  45,477,(;(4 

1871 01,319,313  07,529,158 

1872 58.703,000  62,.5.5(),.-)96 

1873 0,5,498,955  70,902,520 

1874 


81 


RAILROAD  AND  STEAMBOAT  ROUTES, 
From  ISulTalo  to  Niagura  FallN»  Toronto,  Etc. 

— -  =-  Niagara  River.  On  the  Can- 

ada side,  the  first  ol)ji'i'tH  of 
interest  are  the  ruins  of  old 
FouT  Ekik, captund  \>y  tiie 
Americans,  July  .'id,    181-1. 
It  is  situated  at  the  foot  of 
the  lake,  opposite  the  site  of 
a  stroiij?  fortress  which  the 
United    States  (jiovernii.ent 
lias  recently  erected  for  the 
protection  of  tlie  river  and 
city  of  liwftivlo. 
Waterloo,  Can.,  tliree  miles  below 
Buflalo  and  opposite  IMack  Kock  (now 
part  of  Uufl'alo),  with  wliich  it  is  con- 
nected by  the  new  International  Bridge, 
ia  situated  on  the  west  side  of  iS'iagara 
River,  which  is  here  about  half  a  mile 
wide.     A  Branch  of  the  Grand  Trunk 
Jxdilway  runs  to  (ioderich,  Canada,  on 
Lake  Huron;   a  Branch  of  the  Ureat 
Western   lidiluay   of  Canada,   and    the 
Canada  Southern  Railroad  ahso  commen- 
ces at  the  railroad  bridge  crossing  the 
Niagara  River  to  Buffalo;  all  connect- 
ing with  Eastern  Railroads. 

Grand  Island,  belonging  to  the 
United  States,  ia  passed  on  the  right  in 
descending  the  river. 

Navy  Island,  belonging  to  the  Brit- 
iah,  ia  next  passed,  lying  within  gun- 
ahot  of  the  mainland.  This  island  ob- 
tained great  notoriety  in  the  fall  and 
winter  of  1837-38,  when  it  was  occu- 
pied by  the  "Patriots,"  as  they  were 
styled,  during  the  troubles  in  Canada. 
The  Steamer  Caroline  was  deatroyed  De- 
cember 29th,  1837,  while  lying  atSchlos- 
ser'a  Landing,  on  the  American  shore. 

CnrppEWA,20milesbelowBufralo,and 
two  miles  above  the  Falls,  is  on  the  west 
side  of  Niagara  River,  at  the  mouth  of  a 


TiiK  most  usual  mode  of  conveyance 
from  Bufiiilo  to  the  Falls  of  Niagara, 
and  thence  to  Lake  Ontario,  or  into 
Canada,  is  by  tlie  J^Jrie  Railway,  or  the 
Buffalo,  Niatjara  FalU  and  Lewixton  Rail- 
road, 28  miles  in  length.  The  latter  runs 
through  Tonawanda,  11  miles;  Niagara 
Falls,  22  miles;  Suspension  liridge,  24  - 
miles,  connecting  witli  the  Great  West- 
ern Railway  of  Canada,  and  terminates 
at  Lewiston,  the  head  of  navigation  on 
Niagara  River,  28  miles. 

American  and  Canadian  at tamers  of 
a  large  class  leave  Lewiston  several 
times  daily,  for  different  port',  on  Lake 
Ontario  and  the  St.  Lawrence  River. 

There  is  also  another  very  desirable 
mode  of  conveyance,  by  Steamboat,  de- 
scending the  Niagara  River,  from  Buf- 
falo to  Chippewa,  Can.,  thence  l)y  the 
Jirie  and  Ontario  Railroad,  17  mfes  in 
length;  pa.ssingin  full  view  of  the  Falls, 
to  the  Clifton  House,  three  miles  below 
Chippewa;  Suspension  Bridge, five  miles; 
Qneenaton,  eleven  miles,  terminating  at 
Niagara,  Can.,  thirty-five  miles  from 
BufHilo. 

As  the  steamboat  leaves  Buffalo,  on 
the  latter  ro\ite,  a  fine  view  may  be  ob- 
tained of  Lake  Erie  and  both  shores  of 


1    ^* 


PM 


'     ! 


f!T^ 


82 


TRIP   THROUOH   TIIK    LAKES. 


liiHS  I 


creek  of  tho  same  naroo,  which  is  navi(?a- 1 
bin  ti)  Port  Koiusson,  somo  eifjht  or  ten 
inik'rt  wt'.Ht;  tliu  latter  place  being  on  tlie 
line  of  tho  Welland  (."anal.  Tho  villaj,'u  of 
Cliipptwn  contains  a  population  of  about 
l,UUO  souls.  Steaiubouts  and  lake  craft 
of  a  larg^!  kIzc  are  built  at  this  place  for 
tlio  trade  of  Lake  Erie  and  tlie  Upper 
Lake.s.  It  has  obtained  a  j)laco  in  history 
on  aeoount  of  tho  bloody  battle  which 
was  fought  near  it  in  tho  war  of  1«12, 
between  tiio  United  St;ites  and  Great 
Britain.  Tho  battle  was  fought  on  the 
nth  of  July,  1814,  on  tho  i)laina,  a  short 
distaniio  south  of  the  steaiuljoat  landing. 
Tho  American  force.s  were  commanded 
by  Major-General  Jacob  Brown,  and  tiie 
British,  by  Major-General  Riall,  who,  af- 
ter an  obstinate  and  sanf,'uiiuiry  light, 
was  defeated,  with  considerable  loss. 

At  Chippewa  corarat'ncos  the  railroad 
extendinjif  to  Niagara,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  a  distance  of  17  miles.  Steamboats 
continue  tlie  line  of  travel  from  both  ends 
of  this  road,  thus  furni-shing  an  interesting 
and  speedy  conveyance  between  Lakes 
Krio  and  Ontario. 

On  ariving  in  tho  vicinity  of  tho  Falls 
OK  Ni.\(iAUA,  tho  ears  stop  near  tiio  Clifton 
Home,  situated  near  the  ferry  leading;  to 
the  Amerifjan  side.  The  site  of  this  house 
was  chosen  as  giving  the  best  view  of  both 
the  .\moriean  and  Canadian  or  llorse-Shoo 
Falls,  which  are  seen  from  tho  piazziLsand 
front  windows.  Tlii.s  is  tho  most  interest- 
ing approach  to  tiio  Falls. 

In  addition  to  tlie  Falls,  there  are  other 
points  of  attraction  on  tho  Canada  side  of 
the  river.  The  collection  of  curiosities  at 
tho  Museum,  and  the  Camera  Obscura, 
wliich  gives  an  exact  and  beautiful,  though 
miniature  image  of  the  Falls,  are  well  wor- 
thy of  a  visit.  Tlie  Burning  Spring,  two 
miles  above  the  Falls,  is  also  much  fre- 
quented; and  the  rides  to  tho  battle- 
grounds in  this  vicinity  makes  an  exliila- 
rating  and  very  pleasant  excursion. 


Dki'mmondsville,  one  mile  west  of  the 
Falls,  and  situated  on  Lundys  lAine,  is 
celebrated  as  the  scene  of  anotlier  san- 
guinary engagement  between  the  Ameri- 
can and  Britisli  forces,  July  LT),  ISM. 

Tho  foUowinj^  is  a  brief,  though  correct 
account  of  the  engagement :  "On  tho  after- 
noon of  tho  above  day,  wiiile  the  Ameri- 
can army  was  on  their  march  from  Fort 
Gtorge  toward  Fort  Erie,  ascending  tho 
west  bank  of  the  river,  their  rear-guard, 
under  tho  immodiato  command  of  Gen. 
8cott,  was  attacked  by  tlie  advanced  guard 
of  tho  British  army,  under  (Jen.  Riall,  the 
British  having  been  reinforced  after  their 
defeat  at  Chippewa,  on  tho  6lli  of  tho  same 
month.  This  brought  on  a  general  conflict 
of  the  most  obstinate  and  deadly  character. 
As  soon  as  attacked.  Gen.  Scott  advanced 
with  his  division,  amounting  to  about  !i,()00 
men,  to  the  open  ground  facing  tho  heights 
occupied  by  tho  main  British  army,  where, 
wore  planted  Boveral  heavy  pieces  of  can- 
non. Between  eight  and  nino  o'clock  in 
the  evening,  on  the  arrival  of  reinforcements 
to  both  armios,  tlio  battle  beeamo  general 
and  raged  for  several  hours,  with  ultermito 
success  on  both  sides;  each  army  evin- 
cing tho  most  detorminod  bravery  and  ro- 
sistance.  Tho  command  of  the  respective 
forces  was  now  assumed  by  Major  Gon. 
Brown  and  Liout.-Gen.  Drummond,  each 
having  under  his  command  a  well-disci- 
plined army.  Tho  brave  (American)  Col. 
Miller  was  ordered  to  advance  and  seize 
tho  artillery  of  tho  British,  which  he 
ofl'octed  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet  in  the 
most  gallant  manner.  Gen.  Riall,  of  the 
English  army,  was  captured,  and  the  pos- 
session of  the  battle-ground  contested  un- 
til near  midnight,  when  1,700  men  being 
dither  killed  or  wounded,  tho  conflicting 
armies,  amounting  altogether  to  about 
G,000  strong,  ceased  tho  deadly  conflict, 
and  for  a  time  the  bloody  field  was  left  im- 
occnpied,  except  Ijy  the  dead  and  wounded. 

When  the  British  discovered  that  tho 
Americana  had  encamped  one  or  two  miles 


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'l-itint.  "•.••;.■  tvn!!;-.-'!  aw]  cx-uiicii  llu'-.r 

i  -1    !■    ,     Mi.-;;ii:!!        'l'..',aS    0".,ili:d  nP'.'   I'f   ti.i.   ! 
iU'v  '•■;/"'  iv  ''O'lUn  ;h  th:>'  i'(Ot;i  ,  ,.(i  ihii',(.^',' 
fh<.  .     t,  -.-rir;  .m.''  .I'MU-  'j.i;M"i  >■;).•■(  v  '••nj.usl.  '.1 

rnitii.i    v'.  ■  ■:  'l-ui-v'i    In  U'licv.    ■';•    ••(li- 
tiit;!.  ■■ 

'  '■  ■  •if,   ij  '.i  :j.i\V  ,uiil  ■  .I'll  l-,hv:i(^  ■.  iJiafJ':.  j 

r.iiTi^'tijii  iu  riii-  .'••  .-^r  rn  i>MiiiiiaLi'.'U  (,■('  ftioi 
*  w>'.>t  V>  I's!.;  :i  liitilwtiy,  wli'Te  ii,  coun(.-ct3  | 

Wl.   i   W;0   .^ /.<■/•■';'*"'■"'*  f^' <'■'[,'"■  I 

t;:'-    h.'l.'lj.    jiiiii.    :il."'|ii    l.ho    k  illic    i!i.-(:iU>':'' ' 
:ih<H'..  Lht  '■■iiiruucb  oi   x.   i.  :ir,i  liiv<>i    •(-(•• 
j,uk-    iii-iati...   li.'S    iliro'Hiv    u}»]'u»it'-  111' 
viil:ig.-  1.'    i,CV'"''t"ll,  %Vlti)  \r:;'cii    ii   i-^     ,..ti- ; 
Bi.'.  -u  !•;  •!  ,Su9jX'ii."!'>u  L'li'l^fO  .'■fj;:  i'l'^f  in  i 
I'  ■.-'.'•itjkins  fibon'.  .'1)11  mmibil.'irn-'.  I 

••,  •..&■•».  This  pl;i«i»  iji  n'iiii'i 
u^v  .I'jiufi  '■'»'-;  econc  'a  a  df'U'Jlv  ^ 
'  -xTi  tliO  Ainorif-au  .'wui  Bniiwn, 
■.  i.l'.!r  ^:;,  .IS12.  The  ."'.Tden  'iQ  ; 
•:.  ■  otiy  <":uy:i^''''l  ia  tii-.'  li^riil  \vcrt' 
i:i.'>is-i  by  ^jtMj.  L-^uloaioii  Viiu  Keu-^-  i 
t-^.V  ■  .  -•  ■:  xiulli  *hw  Iroups  :ui'!  tin.'!'  c-oin-i 
'I'  ■  ■;.•!•  ir^'-Mlt}  d'sUiifiiiHh'd  iho'D'^oivt'- ' 
ioi  1  i.:  t;  ■•  avurj,  althouirii  ultiiiijili.lvoMT-  i 
^,;>:V"v  -t  ;-,v'  I'uiviiur  mnuht'iN.  lu  atiyiiii''.- 1 
■•'?.'  f-e-gjiu  l.li'ir  o*vu  sido  o!"  thfi  rivi'r^ 
iiu'i.y  •  '■''■'  'vtneiiouijs  ptn-isho<l;  li  ■' 
^vh.''  I'jss  ii>  Kiit-jd,  womnirrt,  nud  prL-.  ;•- 
vr^   i..:  '.iiitii»g  lo  at  luiiai  1,000  in<  :i.  \ 

St  (,  J -Goawal  'Jitocic,  ilio  Bniish  «x)r!i  i 
niiir.:lor,  waa  ki'l-d  in  tlip  iniddlo  of  r.ii<<'i 
tt;^T*:t:,  wliilb  k-'yil-ijr  o-i  hi.s  men.  A  now 
uiDUuji'.at  st:u>d«t  oil  lilt;  iieights,  uoar 
iv-h'T,!  !i  •  fnll.  frf<!tedto  his  memory.  The 
lir-i  ).  jnutneut.  wa?  nearly  di'Stp-yyil  try 
gur.po'vder,  Ap'd  17,  1.S4U:  an  infaiiuiU!* 
Rc:l,  snil  to  h^<^<.'  iKon  porpoiratod  by-  .i 
perHO":  -.thooi  »jt'<4   ,n  Ihi'  itisurreclivin   o: 

P.iw.  ;."h    new-    MiiM'MEyfT    ^vas  com- 
tntnccd  ii»    18.'>:i,  Hiid  imidhod  iu  ISjG; 


Ion 

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till- 

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boi'ii/  IvH.'.  ft.H't  !,igh,  .-iscciidcil  -'n  t'lO  i;.- 
oidi.:  iy  II.  .s^iifi'l  ii.airf.-i^»»  of-  2^i.''>  rt-  i:o 
^loji.i.  Til"  f..',:"  is  40  f,-.  t  :-qii;iri'  a.;'!  .;" 
IVjec  in,  }>--!.-,:'i'.  .-•fM..imto.l  bv  u  -ailiUiL 
tVet  blv'-j,  '.vv'*!  Li-l'-'ru-al  .i-.  vico:.i  <)i  il.j 
f->\ir  -ldt^      n.o  mjt'ti  sh-ii'i,  iib.jiir  iut> 

It?    I;,    •  .   iiu!'':l  ikU'i   Hl.riOOIUUi'  .  bv   :i  ('•»!;!, 

tlii.'in  c  -f  !;*i.  «<ii  wliicli  ii  {ilaCcd  i  r..>io!---.'d 
ti/urp  i-i"  Miyor-UeacTiU  i-rui;!.,  J.-(  tV-ot  ••; 
bcii/^hl.  Tliis  b'-uutiful  .slnii-uirc  uist 
£l(J,ii''."  H'.rtrhtig.  bt;i'-..^  'ii'irch  (••  a- 
»tr'i'.'ted  f :"  u  ■rM.-jiiii-i-Dlurod  st'iii"  '.  ui""- 
rio.i  in  Mte  vi'.-:i.iiy.  A  ru'a>':-'ivo  a'.otui 
wall,  <*<■'  ll'i. ;  Hquarf.  ad'Tuod  u'iMi  imli- 
•  j'-y  :'igu  OS  iivi'l  '.r-'j-hios  a  tiif  corners, 
J7  t'lt  .1  ii  d^'ii.  si'r.-oiiuu.',  I  ho  Mionii- 
ui'.'nt,  b.,ivi!:fj  ^piK"  twi  .It  cri"(.=>s-i>l''ii,  autl 
\\ali.  -ih  thii  ius.a'  ■('the  t"tii'Ju-*iiio. 
'he  foiJuft-jn^  i«  UiC  .ucf^nption  : 

M  ',,      -I  i.i|-)ii  Sir  U  \.X'  !.,.-i"  .-..  K.  1». 

'•ri),  ...i  •ii.i!  !.,i<;iiU  O'tvein"!   un*!  <  .ili^u.  .^jf 

i.r  ilnH  K  -rceniu  liiin  !*n!'-.i'v.r 

Vvb.'«-!  n-!"  jiiis  afu  iiiii'.ii'. -I 

in  till-  \  mU  (...r.riiU: 

'^'f  (.itHiiW,;  til.   iii.<i.i;n;'  taot:':. 

lU  f  11  Ir  ^'Cliiii,  tu-ii'-  Ml''  Hvii;iit« 

in  l!i''  HM  iOiir  -it  !;is  ;ii;(', 
Rr:ri>r.'ii  ttiii'  iiiruoMt.hl  iiy  lu.'.  ].','0!>i>s 
w-hvii!  Ii<?  (/'"VirLjO  I,  sml  d.  [•!">'«(l  b^ 

til'.'  S.  VlTi  i  'II   U>  wh'iS.'   -IVKO 

Hi'»  ll.c  lud  Uen  di'VMtOil. 

Tl  •>  bisi  vforda  of  Maj'.»r-riouer.'U  T!rov?IC) 
■svbeu  iifc*  IV'll  aujrtj.lly  wou.Ml'-'.i  b.'  a  ni'ie.- 
kr!  ,<;ioi  through  i!ie  If  ft  brca-'-t,  wtrt», 
"'  Ni'iv^cr  nuiid,  mv  boys,  the  <i<;!ilh  or  ono 
man — <  iias-'.i  not  loag  v^  hve  '  Thus 
fioparU'U  one  of  the  man^''  n'.iilw  ?j)irit,3 
timi:  w'crv  Hjujriiioedoii  this  IronU'.'i  diirinff 
the  war  oi"  l«12.  . 

Tl)«»  village  of  NiAaxoA.  is  adrantagi;- 
'JU^:ly  rtituated  on  thfi  Canada  side,  at  tho 
entraui^o  of  the  river  into  Lake  i^.irtu-io, 
dir^-otly  opp(^.ji]:e  fort  Niuna.r'.i^  on  *hti 
j^riu'r;.  an  biiJt'.  It  cxmtuiu''  uInjH  ^'..001) 
u.ii'tb-itanta.  a  o:urt.-h'>ii^»  it<'.a  jial ;  {••». 
Ki)ini»pal,  ono  rrosbyttriuii,  O'.'^  M^-'?m.>. 


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BOUTK    FROM    BUFFALO    TO    NIAGARA    FALLS.  ETC. 


83 


distant,  thoy  returned  and  occupied  tlieir 
former  position.  Thus  ended  one  of  tlie 
most  bloud}'  conflicts  tliat  occurred  during 
the  last  war;  and  while  each  piuty  boasted 
a  victory,  altogerhor  too  dearly  bought, 
neither  was  disposed  to  renew  the  con- 
tlict." 

Clifton  is  a  new  and  flourishing  village, 
eituated  at  the  western  termination  of  the 
Great  Western  Railway,  where  it  connects 
with  the  Susjyansion  Bridge. 

QuEEXSTOX,  situated  seven  miles  below 
the  Falls,  and  about  the  same  distance 
above  the  entrance  of  Niagara  River  into 
Lake  Ontario,  lies  directly  opposite  the 
village  of  Lowiston,  with  which  it  is  con- 
nected by  a  Suspension  Bridge  850  leet  in 
lougtli.  it  contains  about  5()iJ  inhabitants, 
60  dwelling-houses,  one  Episcopal,  one 
Scotch  Presbyterian,  and  one  Baptist 
church,  four  taverns,  four  stores,  and 
three  warehouses.  This  place  is  also 
celeljrated  as  being  tlie  scene  of  a  deadly 
strife  between  the  American  and  British 
forces,  October  13,  1812.  The  American 
troops  actually  engaged  in  tiio  tight  were 
commanded  by  Gen.  Solomon  Van  Rens- 
selaer, and  both  the  troops  and  their  com- 
mander greatly  distinguished  themselves 
for  tiieir  bravery,  although  ultimately  ovor- 
powercd  by  superior  numbers.  In  attempt- 
ing to  regain  their  own  side  oftiio  river 
many  of  the  Americans  perished ;  the 
whole  loss  in  killed,  wounded,  and  prison- 
ers amounting  to  at  least  1,000  men. 

Major-Goneral  linocic,  the  Britisli  com- 
mander, was  killed  in  the  middle  of  the 
fight,  while  leading  on  his  men.  A  new 
monument  stands  on  the  heights,  near 
where  he  fell,  erected  to  his  memory.  The 
first  monument  was  nearly  destroyed  by 
gunpowder,  April  17,  1810;  an  infamous 
act,  said  to  have  been  perpetrated  by  a 
person  concerned  in  the  insurrection  of 

is;n-'a8. 

Bkock's  new  MoNi-MENT  was  com- 
menced in   1853,  and  finished  in  1856; 


being  185  feet  high,  ascended  on  the  in- 
side by  a  spiral  staircase  of  235  stono 
steps.  The  base  is  40  feet  square  and  35 
feet  in  hciglit,  surmounted  by  a  tablet  35 
feet  high,  with  historical  devices  on  the 
four  sides;  The  main  shaft,  about  100 
feet,  is  Muted  and  surmouiU;ed  by  a  Corin- 
thian capital,  on  which  is  placed  a  colossal 
figure  of  Major-General  Brock,  18  feet  in 
height.  This  beautiful  structure  cost 
£10,000  sterling,  being  entirely  con- 
structed of  a  cream-colored  stone  quar- 
ried in  the  vicinity.  A  massive  stono 
wall,  80  feet  square,  adorned  with  mdi- 
tary  figures  and  trophies  at  the  corners, 
27  feet  in  height,  surrounds  the  monu- 
ment, leaving  space  for  a  grass-plot  and 
walk  on  the  inside  of  the  enclosure. 
The  following  is  the  inscription : 

Upper  (yunada 

IlrtS  <Jpilic:ito(l  fliis  Monunient 

to  the  iiu'inory  of  tlio  hitu 

Major-Goiieral  Sir  Isaac  Bkock.  K.  B. 

Provisidiial  Lieut.-Ciovuriior  und  Commander 

of  tlio  Forces  in  this  Province, 

■Wlioso  remains  are  <ieposited 

in  the  vault  lieneath. 

Oppiisiu}:  tlie  invading  enemy 

lie  fill  in  action,  near  tjie  Heights, 

on  the   ISth  October,  ISI'2, 

In  the  -Vid  year  of  his  age, 

Hovered  and  lamented  by  the  people 

whom  ho  governed,  and  deplored  by 

the  Sovereign  to  whose  service 

liis  life  had  been  devoted. 

The  last  words  of  Major-General  Brock, 
when  he  fell  mortally  wounded  by  a  mus- 
ket-shot through  the  left  breast,  were, 
"  Never  mind,  my  boys,  the  death  of  one 
man — I  have  not  long  to  live."  Thus 
departed  one  of  the  many  noble  spirits 
that  were  sacrificed  ou  this  frontier  duringf 
the  war  of  1812. 

The  viUage  of  Niagara  is  advantage 
ously  situated  on  the  Canada  side,  at  the 
entrance  of  the  river  into  Lake  (Jniario, 
directly  opposite  Fort  Niagara,  on  the 
American  side.  It  contains  about  3,000 
inhabitants,  a  court-house  and  jail;  ono 
Episcopal,  one  Presbyterian,  one  Metho- 


if" 

! 

t 


r 


84 


TRIP  THROUGH  THE  LAKES. 


dist,  and  one  Roman  Catholic  Church ;  G 
hotels  and  taverns ;  and  20  stores  of  dif- 
ferent kinds ;  also,  an  extensive  locomo- 
tive and  car  I'actory.  This  is  the  most 
noted  place  in  Canada  West  for  binlding 
steamboats  and  other  craft  navi<^ating 
Lake  Ontario.  Hero  is  a  dockyard  with 
a  marine  railway  and  foundry  attached, 
capaljlo  of  making  machinery  of  the  lar- 
gest description,  and  giving  employment 
to  a  great  number  of  men.  It  is  owned 
by  the  "  Niagara  Dock  Company." 
Steamers  leave  daily  for  Toronto,  etc. 

FoHT  Geougk,  situated  a  short  dis^tance 
south  or  up-stream  from  the  mouth  of  the 


river,  is  now  in  ruins.  This  was  the  scene 
of  a  severe  contest  in  1813,  in  which  tiie 
Americans  were  victorious.  A  new  fort 
iias  been  erected  on  the  point  of  land  at 
the  mouth  of  tho  river,  directly  opj)Osite 
old  Fi^rt  Niagara  on  the  American  side. 
The  new  fortification  is  called  Fort  Massa- 
sauga. 

The  whole  frontier  on  the  Canada  side, 
from  Fort  George  to  P'ort  Erie,  opposite 
Buffalo,  was  occupied  by  tho  American 
army  in  181-1,  when  occurred  a  succession 
of  battles  of  the  most  determined  and  bril- 
liant character. 


NIAGARA  RIVER, 

ITS  RAPIDS,    FALLS,    ISLAXDS,    AND   ROMANTIC  SCENERY. 


i 


'i'(i 

:!':; 


"  Majestic  stream  I  what  river  rivals  tliee, 
TliDii  oliilil  of  many  lakes,  und  sire  of  one — 
Lakes  that  claim  kindred  with  tho  all-circling 

sea — 
Larire  at  thy  birth  as  when  thy  race  is  nm  I 
Airainst  wliat  jjreat  obstructions  lias  thou  won 
Tliiiu^  august  way — the  rock-formed  mountaiu- 

I>laln 
Has  oi)ened  at  thy  bidding,  and  the  steep 
J5ars  not  thy  passage,  for  the  ledge  in  vain 
SUeielies  a(tross  the  channel — thou  dost  leap 
SuMiiuely  down  the  height,  and  urge  again 
Thy  ro('k-embattlod  course  on  to  the  distant 

main." 


T;ns  most  remarkable  and  romantic 
stream,  tlie  outlet  of  Lake  Erie,  through 
which  flows  all  the  accumulated  waters 
of  tho  Upper  Lakes  of  North  America, 
very  appropriately  forms  the  botmdary 
between  two  great  countries,  the  British 
province  of  Upper  Canada  on  tho  one  side, 
anu  tho  State  of  New  York,  the  "  Empire 
iBtato"  of  tho  Union,  on  the  opposite  side. 
In  its  whole  course,  its  peculiar  character 
is  quite  in  keeping  with  the  stupendous 
Cataract  from  which  its  principal  interest 
is  derived. 

The  amount  of  water  passing  through 


this  cliannel  is  immense  ;  from  a  compu- 
tation which  has  been  made  at  the  out- 
let of  Lake  Erie,  the  quantity  thus  dis- 
charged is  about  twenty  millions  of  cubic 
feet,  or  upwards  of  GOO, 000  tons  per 
minute,  al'  of  which  great  volume  of 
water,  20  miles  below,  plunges  over  tho 
Falls  of  Niagara. 

The  Niagara  River  commences  at  Bird 
Island,  nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  Buf- 
falo harbor,  and  passes  by  the  site  of  old 
Fort  Erie  and  Waterloo  on  the  Canada 
!  side.  At  the  later  place  a  steam  ferry- 
boat plies  across  tlie  river  to  Black  Rock, 
now  forming  a  part  of  the  city  of  Buffalo. 
It  is  here  proposed  to  construct  a  railroad 
bridge  across  the  stream,  about  1,800  feet 
in  width. 

Squaw  Island  and  Strawberry  Island 
are  both  small  islands  lying  on  the  Amer- 
ican side  of  the  stream,  near  the  head  of 
Grand  Island.  The  river  is  here  used  in 
part  for  tiie  Erie  Canal,  a  pier  extending 
from  S'lUiUv  Island  to  Bird  Island,  forming 
a  large  basin  called  Black  Rock  Harbor. 
Grand  Island,  attached  to  Erie  Co., 


ROUTE    FROM    BUFFALO    TO    NIAGARA    FALLS,   EI  C. 


yo 


N.  T.,  ia  a  largo  and  important  body  of 
land,  about  ten  miles  long  from  nortli  to 
soutli,  and  seven  miles  wide.  This  island 
is  partly  cleared  and  cultivated,  while 
the  larger  portion  is  covered  with  a  large 
growtli  of  oaks  and  other  forest  trees. 

The  ship  or  steamboat  channel  runs 
along  the  bank  of  Grand  Islaud  to  nearly 
opposite  Chippewa,  wliere  tiio  whole 
stream  unites  before  plunging  over  tiie 
Falls  of  Niagara,  being  again  separated 
at  tiio  head  of  Goat  Island.  From  this 
point  the  awe-struck  traveller  can  scan 
tiie  quiet  waters  above,  and  tlie  raging 
rapids  below,  preparing  to  plunge  over 
the  Cataract. 

Cayug.v  Island  and  Bdckiiorn'  Island 
are  small  bodies  of  land  belonging  to  the 
United  States,  situated  immediately  be- 
low Grand  Island. 

Navy  Island,  lying  opposite  the  vil- 
lage of  Cluppevva,  18  miles  below  the 
head  of  the  river,  is  a  celebrated  island 
belonging  to  tlie  Canadians,  having  been 
taken  possession  of  by  the  sympathizing 
patriots  in  1837,  when  a  partial  rebellion 
occurred  in  Ui)per  and  Lower  Canada. 

To.VA WANDA,  11  miles  below  Buffalo,  is 
situated  at  the  moutii  of  Touawanda 
Creek,  opposite  Grand  Island.  The  Erie 
Canal  here  enters  the  creek,  which  it  fol- 
lows for  several  miles  on  its  course  to- 
ward Lockport.  A  railroad  also  runs  to 
Lockport.  connoctmg  with  the  Xtio  York 
C'iiitral  Railroad,  extending  to  Albany. 
A  ship  canal  is  proposed  to  bo  construct- 
ed from  Tonawanda  to  some  eligible  point 
on  Lake  Ontario,  thus  forming  a  rival  to 
the  Welland  Canal  o?  C;tfiaiia. 

SciiLossEu's  Landing,  two  miles  above 
Niagara  Falls  village,  is  a  noted  steam- 
boat landing,  opposite  Chippewa,  from 
whence  the  steamer  CaroUan  was  cut 
adrift  by  the  British  and  destroyed,  by 
being  precipitated  over  the  Falls  during 
the  Canadian  rebellion,  December  29th, 
1837. 
The  Rapids. — Below  Navy  Island,  be- 


tween Chip])ewa  and  Schlossor,  the  river 
is  nearly  tliree  miles  in  width,  but  soon 
narrows  to  one  mile,  when  tlio  Rapids 
commence,  and  continue  for  about  one 
mile  before  reaching  tlie  edge  of  the  preci- 
pice at  the  Ilorse-Shoo  Fall. 

At  the  comnieneemont  of  tlie  Rapids, 
"the  bed  of  the  river  decUnes,  the  clian- 
nel  C(mtracts,  numerous  large  rocks  heavo 
up  the  rolling  surges,  and  dispute  tho 
passage  of  tho  now  raging  and  fnaniing 
Hoods.  The  mighty  torrent  leaping  down 
successive  ledges,  dashing  over  opposing 
elevations,  liurled  back  by  ridges,  and 
repelled  from  shores  and  islands — plung- 
ing, boiling,  roaring — seems  a  mad  wil- 
derness of  waters  striving  against  its 
better  fate,  and  hurried  on  to  destruction 
by  its  own  bhnd  and  reckless  impetuosi- 
ty. Were  tiiere  no  cataract,  these  Rapids 
would  yet  make  Niagara  tiie  wonder  of 
the  world." 

Iris,  or  Goat  Island,  commences  near 
the  head  of  the  Rapids,  and  extends  to 
the  precipice,  of  wiiieh  it  forms  a  part, 
separating  the  American  Fall  from  tiie 
Canadian  or  llorse-iShoe  Fall.  It  is  aliout 
half  a  mile  in  length,  eiglity  rods  wide, 
and  contains  over  sixty  acres  of  arable  land, 
being  for  tho  most  part  covered  witli  a 
heavy  growth  of  forest  trees  of  a  variety 
of  species,  and  native  plants  and  flowers. 
A  portion  of  the  island,  however,  has 
been  cleared  otf,  and  a  garden  enclosed, 
in  which  are  some  excellent  fruit-trees, 
and  a  variety  of  native  and  foreign  [)lant8 
and  flowers,  and  a  fish-pond.  The  island 
is  remarkably  cool,  shady,  and  pleasant, 
and  is  an  object  of  unceasing  admiration 
from  year  to  year.  Comfortable  seats  and 
arbors  are  placed  at  tlie  most  interesting 
points,  where  the  visitor  can  sit  at  ease 
and  enjoy  the  Vjeautiful  and  subhmeview* 
l)reseuted  to  his  siglit — often  entranced 
by  a  deafening  roar  of  mighty  waters  in 
their  descent,  accompanied  by  diang- 
ing  rainbows  of  the  mo;t  gorgeous  de- 
scription. 


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86 


TRIP  THROUGH  THE  LAKES. 


■Bl 

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1 

IViugara. 

WTllTTEN  BY  LYDIA  II.  SIOOURNEY. 

Flow  on  forever,  in  thy  glorious  robo 
Of  terror  iiml  of  lieaiity  ;'(}o(l  liath  set 
His  niiiibow  on  tliy  forohciul,  iinii  tlu)  cloud 
M:intk'S  around  thy  fift,  and  Ho  doth  give 
Thy  voico  of  thunih'r  power  to  si)i'ak  of  Him 
Etornaily  ;  bidditi;;  the  lip  of  man 
Keep  silence,  and  upon  thy  rocky  altar 
Pour  incense  oi'  awe-struck  praise. 

Goat  Island  Bridge. — The  Niagara 
Falls  GazcUe  gives  tlie  following  descrip- 
tion of  tliis  new  structure : 

"This  bridge  across  tlie  east  branch  of 
the  Niagara  River  is  situated  in  the  Rap- 
ids, about  sixty  rods  above  the  Cataract,  on 
the  site  of  the  old  wooden  bridge.  It  is 
3U0  feet  long,  and  consists  of  four  arches 
of  ninety  feet  span  each,  supported  be- 
tween the  abutments  of  three  piers.  The 
piers  above  water  are  built  of  heavy  cut 
stone,  and  are  twenty-two  feet  long  and 
six  feet  wide,  tui)ering  one  foot  in  the 
height.  The  foundations  are  formed  of 
foot-square  oak  timber,  strongly  framed 
and  bolted  together  in  cribs,  iilled  with 
stone,  and  covered  witli  timber  at  tlio  sur- 
face of  the  water.  These  timber-founda- 
tions are  protected  against  wear  and  injury 
from  ice  by  heavy  plates  of  iron,  and  be- 
ing always  covered  with  water,  will  be  as 
durable  as  the  stone. 

''  The  superstructure  is  of  iron,  on  the 
plan  of  Whipple's  iron-arched  bridge. 
The  whole  width  is  twenty-seven  feet, 
affording  a  double  carriage-way  of  sixteen 
and  a  lialf  feet,  and  two  foot- ways  of  live 
and  a  fourth  feet  each,  with  iron  railings. 
Tlie  arches  are  of  cast  iron,  and  the 
chords,  suspenders,  and  braces  of  wrought 
iron.  All  the  materials  used  in  the  con- 
struction are  of  tiie  best  quality,  and  the 
size  and  strength  of  all  the  parts  far 
beyond  what  are  doomed  necessary  in 
bridges  exposed  to  the  severest  tests. 

"This  substantial  and  beautif'u.  struc- 
ture, spanning  a  branch  of  tliis  majes- 


tic river  in  the  midst  of  the  rapids,  and 
overlooking  the  cataract,  is  worthy  of  the 
site  it  occupies,  and  atlbrds  another  in- 
stance of  the  triumpli  of  luiman  ingenuity 
over  the  obstacles  of  nature. 

"The  islands  connected  by  this  bridge 
with  the  American  shore  are  tlie  property 
of  Messrs.  Porter,  and  constitute  the  most 
interesting  features  in  tlio  scenery  sur- 
rounding the  cataract.  This  bridge  has 
been  erected  by  them  to  facilitate  com- 
munication witli  tiiese  interesting  locali- 
ties not  otherwise  accessible." 

This  is  a  toll-bridge,  every  foot  passen- 
ger being  chargr^d  25  cents  for  the  season, 
or  single  crossing. 

Tliere  are  upward  of  thirty  islands  and 
islets  m  the  Niagara  River  or  Strait,  above 
tlio  cataract.  Most  of  those  not  described 
are  small,  and  scarcely  worthy  of  enumer- 
ation, altliough  those  immediately  contigu- 
ous to  Goat  Island  form  beautiful  objects 
in  connection  with  the  rushing  and  mighty 
waters  by  whieii  they  are  surrounded. 
Bath  Mcmd,  Bri<j  Idaud,  Ohaphi's  Inland, 
and  Bird  Maud,  all  situated  immediately 
above  the  American  Fall,  are  reached  by 
bridges. 

When  on  Goat  Island,  turning  to  the 
right  toward  the  Falls,  the  first  object  of 
interest  is  Hoij'fs  Back,  a  point  of  land 
facing  the  American  Fall, — Bridge  to  Ad- 
iiigton  Island  immediately  above  the  Cave 
of  the  Winds,  KiOfeet  below.  Sam.  Patch's 
Point  is  next  passed  on  the  right,  from 
which  lie  took  a  fearful  leap  some  years 
since.  Biddle's  Stairs  descend  to  tho 
water's  edge  below  and  tho  Cave  of 
the  Winds,  wiiicli  are  annually  visited  by 
thousands  of  visitors.  Terrapin  Bridge 
and  Terrapin  Tower  afford  a  grand  view 
of  the  Canadian  or  Horse-Shoe  Fall  and 
Rapids  above  the  Falls,  Tiiroe  Sister  Isl- 
ands are  contiguous  to  Goat  Island,  on  tho 
';  American  side.  Passing  around  Goat  Isl- 
and toward  the  south,  a  grand  view  is 
afforded  of  the  river  and  rapids  above  the 
Oanadian  and  American  Foils. 


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ROUTE    FROM    BUFFALO    TO    NIAOAHA    FALLS,  ETC. 


87 


>.  '-3/1  Tl 


\ia'U'<li"l  is  a  word  of  Indian  origin — 
tho  ortliography,  acfcntuation,  and  mean- 
ing of  which  are  variously  given  by 
ditterent  authors.  It  is  highly  probable 
that  this  diversity  might  be  accounted 
for  and  explained  by  tracing  the  appellation 
thro\igh  the  dialects  of  the  several  tribes 
of  aborigines  who  formerly  iidiabited  the 
neighboring  country.  There  is  reason  to 
believe,  however,  that  the  etymon  belongs 
to  tho  language  of  the  Iroquois,  and  signi- 
fies the  "  Thunder  of  Waters:'  ' 

"  When  the  traveller  tirst  arrives  at  the 
cataract  he  stands  and  gazes,  and  is  lost 
in  admiration.  The  mighty  volume  of 
water  which  forms  the  outlet  of  the  great 
Lakes  iSuperior,  Michigan,  Huron,  and 
Erie,  is  hero  precipitated  over  a  precipice 
160  feet  high,  with  a  roar  like  that  of 
thunder,  which  may  be  heard,  in  favora- 
ble circumstances,  to  the  distance  of  fif- 
teen miles,  though,  at  times,  the  Falls  may 
be  nearly  aj)proached  without  perceiving 
much  to  indicate  a  tremendous  cataract 
in  tho  vicinity.  In  conse(iuence  of  a  bend 
in  tho  river,  the  principal  weight  of  water 
>6  thrown   oa  the  Canadian  side,  down 


what    is    called    the 

Horse-Shoe  Fall,  which 
name  has  become  in- 
appropriate, as  the 
edges  of  the  precipice 
liave  ceased  to  bo  a 
curve,  and  form  a 
moderately  acute  an- 
gle. Near  the  mid- 
dle of  tiie  falL,  Goat 
Island,  containing  75 
acres,  extends  to  the 
brow  of  the  precipice,  dividing  tho  river 
into  two  parts;  and  a  small  projecting 
mass  of  rock  at  a  little  distance  from  it, 
toward  the  American  shore,  again  divides 
the  cataract  on  that  side,  tioat  Island, 
at  the  lower  cud,  presents  a  perpendicu- 
lar mass  of  rocks,  extending  from  tlie  b(jt- 
torn  to  the  top  of  the  precipice.  A  bridge 
has  been  constructed  from  the  American 
shore  to  Bath  Island,  atid  anotlier  connects 
the  latter  with  (Joat  Island,  and  a  tower 
is  erected  on  tlie  brow  of  the  Ilor.se-Shoo 
Fall,  approached  from  Goat  Island  by  a 
short  bridge,  on  which  the  spectator  seems 
to  stand  over  the  edge  of  the  mighty  cat- 
aract, and  which  atlbrds  a  fine  view  of  this 
part  of  it.  The  distance  at  the  fall  from 
the  American  shore  to  Goat  Island  is  05 
rods ;  across  the  front  of  Goat  Island  is 
78  rods;  around  the  Horse-Shoe  Fall,  on 
the  Canadian  side,  144  rods;  directly 
across  the  Ilorse-Shoe,  74  rods.  The 
height  of  the  fall  near  tlie  American  shore 
is  103  feet;  near  Goat  Island,  on  the  same 
side.  158  feet;  near  Goat  Island,  on  tho 
Canad."  side,  154  feet.  Table  Rock,  a 
shelving  projection  on  the  Canadian  side, 
at  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  is  l.'iO  feet 
high.  This  place  is  generally  thought  to 
present  tlie  finest  view  of  the  Falls; 
though,  if  the  spectator  will  visit  the  tow- 
er on  tho  opposite  side  on  Goat  Island,  at 
sunrise,  when  the  whole  cavity  is  enlight- 
ened by  the  sun,  and  the  gorgeous  bow 
trembles  in  the  rising  spray,  he  cannot 
elsewhere,  the  world  ovei,  enjoy  such  an 


H 


11^ 


H:i! 


\ 


88 


TRIP    THROUGH    THE    LAKE8. 


incomparable  scene.  A  covered  stairway 
on  the  American  side  descends  from  the 
top  to  the  bottom  of  the  precipice. 

"  It  hu.s  been  computed  that  100  million 
tons  of  water  are  discharged  over  tiie 
precipice  every  hour.  The  Kapids  com- 
mence about  a  mile  above  tlio  Falls,  and 
the  water  descends  57  feet  before  it  ar- 
rives at  the  cataract.  Tlie  view  from  the 
brid},'0  to  Uoat  Island,  of  the  troubled 
water  dashing  tuundtuously  over  th* 
rocks  of  the  American  fall,  is  terrilic. 
While  curiosity  constitutes  an  attribute 
of  tlie  liuman  character,  liicse  falls  will  be 
fre(iuented  by  admiring  and  delii,dited 
visitors  as  one  of  the  grandest  exhibitions 
in  nature. 

"This  stupendous  Cataract,  situated  in 
north  latitude  43"  G',  and  west  longitude 
2"  ()'  from  Washington,  is  22  miles  nortli 
from  tlie  clllux  of  the  river  at  Lake  Erie, 
and  14  miles  south  of  its  outlet  into  Lake 
Ontario.  The  whole  length  of  the  river  is 
therefore  30  miles,  its  general  course  is  a 
few  points  to  the  west  of  north.  Though 
commonly  called  a  river,  this  portion  of  tlie 
St.  Lawrence  is,  more  properly  speaking, 
a  atrait,  connecting,  as  above  mentioned, 
the  Lakes  Erie  and  Ontario,  and  conduct- 
ing the  supertluous  waters  of  the  great 
seas  and  streams  above,  through  a  broad 
and  divided,  and  afterward  compressed, 
devious,  and  irregular  channel  to  the  lat- 
ter lake,  into  which  it  empties — the  point 
of  union  being  about  40  miles  from  the 
western  extremity  of  Lake  Ontario. 

"The  climate  of  the  Niagara  is  in  the 
highest  degree  healthful  and  invigorating. 
The  atmosphere,  constantly  acted  upon 
by  the  rushing  water,  the  uoiae,  and  tl:e 
spray,  is  kept  pure,  refreshing,  and  salu- 
tary. There  are  no  stagnant  pools  or 
marshes  near  to  send  abroad  their  fetid 
exhalations  and  noxious  miagmas,  poison- 
ing the  air  and  producing  disease. 

"  Sweet-breathing  herbs  and  beautiful 
wild  Howcrs  spring  up  spontaneously  even 
on  the  sides,  and  in  the  crevices  of  the 


giant  rocks ;  and  luxuriant  clusters  of  fira 
and  other  stately  forest  trees  cover  the 
islands,  crown  the  clilfs,  and  overhang 
the  banks  of  Niagara.  Here  are  no  mos- 
quitoes to  annoy,  no  reptiles  to  alarm, 
and  no  wild  animals  to  intimidate,  yet  there 
is  life  and  vivacity.  The  many-hued  but- 
terfly sips  ambrosia  from  the  fresh  opened 
honey-cup ;  birds  carol  their  lays  of  love 
among  the  spray-starred  branches;  and 
the  lively  squirrel  skips  chattering  from 
tree  to  tree.  Varieties  of  water-fowl,  at 
certain  seasons  of  the  year,  sport  among 
the  rapids,  the  sea-gull  plays  around  the 
])rccipice,  and  the  eagle — the  banner  bird 
of  freedom — hovers  above  the  cataract, 
plumes  his  gray  pinions  in  its  curUng  mists, 
and  makes  his  home  among  the  giant  firs 
of  its  inaccessible  islands. 

"Noplace  on  the  civilized  earth  offers 
such  attractions  and  inducements  to  visi- 
tors as  Niagara,  and  tliey  can  never  be 
fully  known  except  to  those  who  see  and 
study  tliem,  from  the  utter  impossibility 
of  describing  such  a  scene  as  this  wonder- 
ful cataract  presents.  When  motion  can 
be  expressed  by  color,  there  will  be  some 
hope  of  imparting  a  faint  idea  of  it;  but 
until  that  can  be  done,  Niagara  must  re- 
main undoscribed." 


Cataract  of  Niagrara. 

"Shrine  of  Omnipotence  1  how  vast,  how  grand, 
How  awful,  yet  now  beautiful  thou  artl 
I'llliirVl  around  tliy  everhisting  liills, 
Kobed  in  tlie  drapery  of  descendii.f:  floods, 
(browned  by  the  rainbow,  canopied  by  clouds 
That  roll  iii  incen.-e  up  from  tliy  dread  base, 
Hid  by  th<  ir  mantling  o'er  the  vast  abyss 
Upon  vhoso  verge  thou  stan<lest,  whence  as- 
cends 
The  mighty  anthem  of  thy  Maker's  praise, 
Uymu'il  in  eternal  thunders  T 


Below  the  Falls,  the  first  objects  of  in- 
terest are  the  Ferry  Stairs  and  Point  View 
on  the  American  side ;  while  on  the  op- 


rii 


ROUTE    FROM    BUFFALO    TO    NIAGAI.A    FALLS,    ETC. 


89 


posih)  side  is  a  ferry-lioiise  and  landing, 
where  carriages  arc  usually  to  be  found 
to  convey  passengers  to  the  Clifton  House, 
Table  Rock,  and  other  places  of  groat 
interest. 

The  new  Suspension  BrUlrje  is  erected 
near  the  Falls  immediately  below  the 
Clifton  IIouse,on  the  Canada  side.  Here 
the  American  and  Canadian,  or  Horse- 
Shoe  Falls  may  be  seen  to  advantage. 

The  Suspension  Bridge,  the  greatest 
artiticial  curiosity  in  America,  is  situated 
two  miles  and  a  half  below  the  Falls, 
where  has  recently  sprung  into  existence 
Niagara  City,  or  better  known  as  the 
Siispenf<ion  Bridge,  on  the  American  side, 
and  Clifton  on  the  Canadian  side  of  the 
river,  here  being  about  HOO  feet  in  width, 
with  perpendicular  banks  of  325  feet. 

The  Whirlpool  and  Rapids,  one  mile 
below  the  Bridge,  are  terrific  sights  of 
great  interest,  and  well  wortliy  a  visit. 

The  DeviVs  Jfuk,  one  mile  farther  down, 
is  also  a  point  of  great  attraction,  together 
with  the  Bloody  Hun,  a  small  stream  where 
a  detachment  of  English  soldiers  were 
precipitated  in  their  flight  from  an  attack 
by  Indians  during  the  old  French  war  in 
1759.  An  amphitlieatro  of  high  ground 
spreads  around  and  perfectly  encloses  the 
valley  of  the  Devil's  Hole,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a  narrow  ravine  formed  by 
Blood}'  Run — from  which,  against  a  largo 
force,  there  is  no  escape,  except  over  the 
precipice.  The  Ice  Cave  is  another  object 
of  interest  connected  with  the  Devil's 
Hole. 

The  Rapids  below  the  Whirlpool  are 
the  next  object  of  attraction ;  then  Queens- 
ton  Heights  and  Brock's  Monument  on 
the  Canadian  side,  and  the  Saspfjision 
Bridge  at  Lewiston;  altogether  forming 
objects  of  interest  8uE3cient  to  fill  a  well- 
sized  volume. 

The  Niagara  River  is  navigable  from 
Lewiston  to  its  mouth  at  Fort  Niagara,  a 
farther  distance  of  seven  miles,  or  four- 
teen below  the  Falls  of  Niagara. 


The  village  of  Niagaua  Falls,  Niagara 
Co.,  N.  Y.,  is  situated  on  the  east  side  of 
Niagara  River,  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  the  grand  Cataract,  22  miles  from  Buf- 
falo and  303  miles  from  Albany  i)y  rail- 
r<jad  route.  No  place  in  the  Union  exceeds 
this  favored  spot  as  a  fashionable  place  of 
resort  during  the  summer  and  fall  months, 
when  hundreds  of  visitors  may  be  seea 
every  day  flocking  to  Goat  Island,  or 
points  contiguous  to  the  Rapids  and  Falls. 
The  village  contai  \s  several  largo  hotels 
for  the  accommodation  of  visitors,  the 
most  noted  of  ■«>  nioh  are  the  Cataract 
House  and  the  International  Hotel ;  the 
Monteagle  Hotel,  situated  two  miles  be- 
low the  Falls,  near  the  Suspension  Bridge, 
and  the  Clifton  House,  on  the  Canada 
side,  are  all  alike  popular  and  well-kept 
hotels ;  there  are  five  churches  of  different 
denominations;  15  stores,  in  many  of 
which  are  kept  for  sale  Indian  curiosities 
and  fancy  work  of  different  kinds.  The 
water-power  here  afforded  by  tlie  de- 
scending stream,  east  of  Goat  Island,  is 
illimitable.  A  paper-mill,  a  flouring-mill, 
two  saw-mills,  a  woollen  factory,  a  fur- 
nace and  machine  shop,  together  with 
other  manufacturing  establishments,  hero 
use  the  water-power  so  bountifully  sup- 
plied.    The  population  is  about  3,500. 

The  railroads  centring  at  the  Falls  are 
the  Buffalo,  Xiaga7-a  Falls  and  Lewiston 
Railroad,  and  the  New  York  Central  Rail- 
road; also,  the  New  York  ami  Erie  Rail- 
way, forming  with  other  roads  a  tiirect 
route  to  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Bal- 
timore, and  Washington. 

An  Oinnihxis  Line  and  hacks  run  from 
the  village  of  Niagara  Fulls  to  Niagara 
City,  or  Suspension  Bridge,  during  ihe 
summer  months,  and  thence  to  the  (.'lifton 
House  and  Table  Rock  on  Canada  side. 

Niagara  C'iTY,situated  two  miles  be- 
low the  P^alis,  at  the  Suspension  liridr/e, 
is  a  new  and  flourishing  place  contain- 
ing about  1,500  inhabitants.  Here  are 
situated  two  or  three  public  houses. 


.It 


ii 


i 


-..til 


90 


TRIP    THROUGH    THE    LAKES. 


I 


III! 


m 


SUSPENSION    BRIDGE 

AND  THE 

Cataract  mid  Rapids   of    Niagara. 


To  give  the  reader  some  idea  of  the 
grandeur  of  this  triumph  of  eiigiu'^eriug 
skill— Tllli:  SUSPENSION  BRIDGE— 
wo  copy  the  following  article  from  a  late 
ButValo  paper: 

AN  ENGINEER'S  MONUMENT. 

Spanning  the  chasm  of  the  Niagara 
River,  uniting  tlie  territories  of  two  diller- 
ent  Governments,  and  sustaining  tlie  unin- 
terrupted railroad  traffic  of  tiie  Provinces 
of  Canada  with  the  United  States,  250  feet 
above  a  flood  of  water  which  man  has 
never  been  able  to  ferry,  stands  the  monu- 
ment of  John  A.  RoKKLixa.  The  Xicujara 
Jiailwcii/  Siw^peyision  Brid'je,  is  the  grandest 
and  the  most  distinguishing  achievement 
of  Art  in  this  world.  It  is  the  proudest, 
it  is  the  most  beautiful,  and  will  prove  to 
be  the  most  enduring  monument  anywhere 
set  up  on  tliLg  continent. 

Regard  this  wonderful  product  if  engi- 
neering sliill.  Its  span  is  822  feet.  Yet 
an  engine,  tender  and  pass'-nger  car,  load- 
ed witli  men,  and  weighing  altogether  47 
tons,  depress  the  long  floor  in  tlie  centre 
but  5i  inclics.  Tlie  Bridge,  loaded  with 
a  loaded  freiglit  train,  covering  its  whole 
length,  and  weighing  32(i  tons,  is  deflected 
in  the  middle  only  10  inclies.  Tiiis  ex- 
treme depression  is  perceptible  only  to 
practised  eyes.  The  slighter  changes  of 
level  require  to  bo  ascertained  with  in- 
struments. Delicate  as  lace  work,  and 
eecmingly  light  and  airy,  it  lumgs  there 
high  between  heaven  and  the  boiling  flood 
below,  more  solid  than  tlie  earthbeds  of 
the  adjacent  railways.  The  concussions 
of  fast  moving  trains  are  sensibly  felt  miles 


off  through  solid  rocky  soil.  In  cities  lo- 
comotives shake  entire  blocks  of  stone 
dwellings.  The  waters  of  the  Cayuga 
Lake  tremble  under  the  wheels  of  the 
express  trains,  a  mile  away  from  the 
bridge.  But  a  freight  train  traversing 
John  A.  Roehlino's  Monument,  at  the 
speed  of  Ave  miles  an  hour,  comnumicates 
no  jar  to  passengers  walking  upon  the 
carriage  way  lielow.  The  land  cables  of 
the  bridge  do  not  tremble  under  it — the 
slight  concussions  of  the  superstructure 
do  not  go  over  the  summits  of  the  towers, 
Tiiis  last  fact  in  the  stiflhess  of  tlie  great 
work  is  of  mucli  importance.  It  furnishes 
a  guarantee  of  the  durability  of  the  ma- 
sonry. Fast  anchored  with  stone  and 
grouted  in  solid  rock  cut  down  to  tlie 
depth  of  twenty-five  feet,  the  great  cables 
are  immovable  by  any  mechanical  '^ree 
incidental  to  the  use  of  tlie  bridge,  o.  the 
natural  influences  it  will  be  subject  to. 
The  ultimate  strength  of  these  cables  is 
12,100  tons.  The  total  weight  of  the  ma- 
terial of  the  bridge,  and  of  the  traflic  to 
wliicli  it  will  ordinarily  be  subjected  is 
2,2G2  tons,  to  sustain  which  tlie  Kngineer 
has  provided  in  his  beautiful  and  scientific 
structure,  a  strength  of  1 2, 100  tons.  He 
demonstrates,  too,  that  while  the  strength 
of  the  cables  is  nearly  six  times  as  great 
ar  their  ordinary  tension,  that  strength 

WILL   NEVER   HE   IMPAIRED   BY  VII5RATI0N. 

This  was  tiie  question  raised  by  The  De- 
mocracy, a  year  ago,  which  excited  such 
general,  and  in  instances  such  angry  dis- 
cussion. RoEiiMNG  treated  our  doubts 
with  a  cool  reason  and  the  stores  of  an 
cKtensive  engineering  experience,  which 
gave  us  to  believe  tiiat  Art  had  at  last 
attained  to  a  method  of  suspending  lion. 
Bridges  for  Railroad  use,  that  should  en 


i'^M !"'''! 


ROUTE    FROM    BUFFALO    TO    NIAGARA    FALLS,  ETC. 


91 


tirely  obviate  the  objections  to  them  felt 
by  most  of  tiie  Irou-Mastors  of  the  United 
States.  He  ha.s  since  that  demoustrated 
it  in  a  most  wumierfiil  structure. 

There  are  iu  the  bridge  624  "suspend- 
ers," oacli  capable  of  sustaining  .TO  tuns — 
and  all  of  sustaining  18,720  ton.s.  The 
weight  they  liavo  ordinarily  to  support  is 
only  1,000  tons.  But  the  lingiueer  has 
skilfully  distributed  the  weight  of  the 
burdens,  by  the  means  of  "girders"  and 
"  trusses."  These  spread  the  34  tons  heft 
of  a  locomotive  and  lender  over  a  length 
of  200  feet.  How  ample  is  this  provision 
made  for  defective  iron  or  sudden  strains ! 

The  .\nchor  Chains  are  composed  of  9 
linlcs,  each  7  feet  long,  save  the  last, 
which  is  10  feet.  The  lowest  link  is  made 
of  7  bars  of  iron,  7  inch  by  IJ.  It  is  se- 
cured to  a  cast  iron  anchor  plate  3J-  Indies 
thick,  and  6  feet  tJ  inches  square.  The 
other  links  are  equally  strong.  The  iron 
used  was  all  made  from  Pennsylvania  char- 
coal, Ulster  county,  N  Y.,  and  Salisbury 
Pig,  .and  can  be  depended  upon  for  a 
strengtli  of  64,000  pounds  to  tho  square 
Inch.  The  central  portions  of  the  anchor 
plates,  through  which  the  links  pass  is  12 
inches  thick.  The  excavations  in  the  sohd 
rock  were  not  vertical.  They  inclined  from 
tho  ri'.-er.  The  rock  upon  which  the  work 
may  rely  on  tiie  New  York  side  of  the 
chasm  is  100  feet  long,  70  feet  wide,  and 
20  feet  deep.  It  weighs  160  pounds  to 
the  cubic  foot,  and  presents  a  resistance  of 
14,000  tons,  e.xclusive  of  the  weight  of  the 
Buperincumbent  masonry  and  embankment. 

The  'i'o""EP.s  aro  each  1.')  feet  square  at 
t'lo  base,  00  feet  high  above  tho  arch, 
2 ad  8  feet  square  at  tlie  top.  Tho  limestone 
c  f  which  tliey  are  built  will  support  a  pres- 
sure of  500  tons  on  each  square  foot  with- 
out crushing.  While  the  greatest  weight 
that  can  fall  upon  .the  towcr  will  rarely 
exceed  GOO  tons,  a  pressure  of  32,000  tons 
will  bo  required  to  crush  tho  top  course. 
There  are  4,000  tons'  weight  in  each  of  tlie 
towers  on  the  New  York  sido. 


The  cables  are  4  in  number,  10  inches 
in  diameter,  and  composed  each  of  .■i,640 
small  No.  9  wires.  Sixty  wires  form  ouo 
square  inch  of  solid  section,  making  the 
solid  section  of  the  entire  cabio  60.40 
square  inches,  wrapping  not  inchidcd. 
These  immense  masses  of  wire  are  put 
together  so  that  each  individual  wiie  per- 
forms its  duty,  and  in  a  strain  all  woik 
together.  On  this,  Mr.  Roeblino,  whu 
is  a  moderate  as  well  as  a  modest  man, 
feels  justilied  in  speaking  with  the  word 
peuff:ct.  Each  of  the  large  cables  is 
composed  of  four  smaller  ones,  called 
"strands."  Each  .strand  has  520  wires. 
One  is  placed  in  the  centre.  The  rest  aro 
placed  aroun<l  that.  These  strands  wero 
manufactured  nearly  iu  the  same  position 
tho  cables  now  occupy.  The  preparatory 
labors,  such  as  oiling,  straightening,  spli- 
cing, and  reeling,  were  done  in  a  long 
shed  on  the  Canada  side.  Two  strands 
were  made  at  the  same  time,  one  for  each 
of  the  two  cabl(?s  under  process  of  con- 
struction. On  the  completion  of  one  set, 
temporary  wire  bands  were  laid  on,  about 
nine  inches  apart,  for  tho  purpose  of 
keeping  the  wires  closely  united,  and  so- 
curing  tlieir  relative  position.  They  wero 
then  lowered  to  occupy  their  permanent 
position  in  the  cable,  On  completion  of 
the  seven  pairs  of  strands,  two  platform 
carriages  were  mounted  upon  the  cables, 
for  laying  on  a  continuous  wrapping,  by 
means  of  Rokhling's  patent  wrapping 
machines.  During  this  process  tho  whole 
mass  of  wire  was  again  saturated  with 
oil  and  paint,  which,  together  with  the 
wrapping,  will  protect  them  oiTc^tually 
against  all  oxidation.  Five  himdred  tons 
of  this  wire  is  English.  American  man- 
ufacturers did  not  put  in  proposals.  That 
used  was  remarkably  uniform,  and  most 
carefully  made. 

Tho  law  deduced  from  large  use  of  wire 
rope  in  Penn.sylvania,  is,  that  its  durabili- 
ty depends  upon  its  usage.  It  will  la^.t 
much  longer  under  heavy  strains  moving 


i  ii 


]:| 


'   '"'  v' 

ij 

I  , 


02 


TRIP   TJIROUOH    THE   LAKES. 


slowly,  than  it  will  under  light  strains  \ 
moving  rapidly.  This  law  was  borne 
constantly  in  mind  by  the  Engineer  of 
the  Niagara  Railway  Bridge.  The  cables 
and  suspenders  are,  so  to  speak,  at  rest. 
They  are  so  well  protected,  too,  from  rust, 
that  they  may  bo  regarded  as  eternally 
durable. 

Among  the  iateresting  characteristics 
of  this  splendid  architecture,  is  its  elas- 
ticity. The  depression  under  a  load  com- 
mences at  tlie  end,  of  course,  and  goes 
regularly  across.  After  the  passage  of  a 
train,  the  eciuilibriuui  is  perfectly  restored. 
The  elasticity  of  the  cables  is  fully  equal 
to  this  task,  and  will  nkvku  bk  lost. 

The  e([ailibrium  of  the  Bridge  is  less 
aJTected  in  cold  weatlier  tlian  in  warm. 
If  a  change  of  temperature  of  100  de- 
grees should  take  place,  the  difference  in 
tlie  level  of  the  floor  would  bo  2  foet  3 
inches. 

So  solid  is  this  Bridge  in  its  weiglit, 
its  stiflhess,  and  its  stayinsr,  that  not  the 
slightest  motion  is  communicated  to  it  by 
tlio  severest  gales  of  wind  that  blow  up 
tliroujjfh  tlie  narrow  gorge  which  it  spans. 

Next  to  violent  winds,  suspension  bridge 
builders  dread  the  trotting  of  cattle  across 
their  structures.  Mr.  Kokbling  says  that 
a  heavy  train  running  20  miles  an  hour 
across  his  Bridge,  would  do  less  injury 
to  it  than  would  '20  steers  passing  on  a 
trot.  It  is  the  severest  test,  next  to  tliat 
of  troops  marcliing  in  time,  to  which 
bridges,  iron  or  wooden,  suspension  or 
tubular,  can  be  subjected.  Strict  regula- 
tions are  enforced  for  the  passage  of  hogs, 
horses,  anil  oxen,  in  small  bodies,  and 
always  on  a  walk. 

Tliis  great  work  cost  only  $500,000. 
The  same  structure  in  England  (if  it  could 
possibly  have  been  built  there)  would 
have  cost  $4,000,000.  It  is  unquestiona- 
bly the  most  admirable  work  of  art  on 
this  continent,  and  will  make  an  imper- 
ishable monument  to  the  memory  of  its 
Engineer,  Jouu  A,  Roeblino. 


We  append  a  Table  of  Quantities  for 
the  convenience  of  our  readers,  and  the 
more  easy  comprehension  of  the  charac« 
ter  of  the  structure : 

Length  of  8i>an  from  centre  to  centre  of 

Towers 822  feel 

Ileifrlit  <)t  Tower  nbovo  rock  on  Ameri- 
can side 88  feet 

IIfi;;ht  of  Tower  above  rofk,  Canada  side    78  foet 
Height  of  Tower  above  floor  of  Kailway.  60  feet 

NuinbiT  of  Wire  Cables '4 

Diameter  of  cacli  Cable 10  inches 

Number  of  No.  9  wiri'3  in  each  Cal)le..  8,5()t> 
Ultimate  .ifcpregate  wtrentrth  of  Cables,  12,400  tons 

Wei^fht  of  Suiierstnicture T50ton8 

Wetjrht  of  Superstructure  and  maxi- 

m  urn  loads 1,2.50  tons 

Ultimate  supportinj;  strength WO  tons 

Ileifrht  of  Track  above  water 250  feet 

Base  of  To  WITS 16  feet  square 

Top  of  Towers 8     " 

Length  of  each  Upper  Cable l,25f>J  feet 

"     Lower  Cable 1,190  feet 

Depth  of  Anchor  Pits  below   surface 

of  Koclc 30  feet 

Number  of  Suspenders 624 

Ultimate  strength  of  Suspenders 18,720  tons 

Numkier  of  Overfloor  Stays 64 

Aggregate  strength  of  Stays 1,920  tons 

Nuinber  of  Uiver  Stays . ..'. .^ 

Aggregate  strength  of  Stays 1,680  tons 

Elevation  of  Kailway  Track  above  mid- 
dle stage  of  Jtiver 245  feet 

Total  length  of  Wires 4,000  miles 

The  weiglits  of  the  materials  in  the 
bridge  are  as  follows: 

T.t   ■ 

Timber 91 . .  130 

Wri)ught  Iron  and  Suspenders 113,120 

(;astiiigs 44,332 

Kails 66,740 

Cables  (between  towers) 5!36.400 

Total 1,678,722 

The  Great  Westerx  Railway  of 
Canada,  which  unites  with  the  New  York 
Central  liailroad,  terminating  on  the  Ameri- 
can side  of  the  rivor,  liere  commences 
and  extends  westward  through  Hamilton, 
London,  and  Chatliam  to  Windsor,  oppo- 
site Detroit,  Mich.,  formmg  one  of  the 
great  through  lines  of  travel  from  Boston 
and  New  York  to  Detroit,  Chicago,  and 
the  Far  West. 

This  road  also  fui  ashes  a  speedy  route 
of  travel  to  Toronto,  Montreal,  etc. 


eili'^ 

i  i 

m'la 

■i    U 

m 

1  1 

^    i'fl 

' 


93 


TO  INVALIDS  AND  SEEKEIi^  OK  PLEASURE. 


^fi)untainB,  Lahr'.a  and  Rirera  art  thu 
1  lemetns  in  the  plw^kul  world,  that  go 
to  pmif"  tilt!  atniosjiliert',  loiulize  tlie 
«oil,  :in(l  iMiautify  tli«  landr^npe  fur 
.  Ihe  .ibiidti  of  mail.  Ho  iiuiiualcly  are 
liioy  eoiiDcoted  in  the  economy  ui' 
iN'atnre  that  ihey  are  iiidi.^porisDhh'  one 
to  ih(\  other.  Fio'ii  ilii.'  laki;-;,  rivtff> 
un<!  oiHiaii  -llif  hitter  the  rccijtioiit  ol 
thi'  'Ajtiner  -arises  the  vapor  and  moia- 
ture  tli.ii  furms  tlie  clouds, — these  ro 
tiiriiiii!^  tliyir  distilled  coiiteut.'s  juaile 
pun:  hy  natures  alchemy, — ovornhruiow 
the  iiioiintaiu  top  and  the  plain,  and 
desi'ciid  in  nun  or  snow,  giviniBr  viwr 
and  life,  to  animated  naliire  i'ar  and 
wide;  thene  intluenee.-;!  hein;^'  uiodifted 
l>y  that  portitvn  of  the  earth's  Miirface 
on  which  ihey  descend,  lienee,  (ho 
Trnjiu'i^,  whieh  liave  the  greate-st  degree 
of  heat  and  iuoi;-ture — and  where  tlu;ro 
are  hat  iwo  Hea-ioiH,  ih*.!  wd  and  the 
dry — produce  rank  veju'etation,  reptiles, 
and  animal.^  of  u  ferocious  eiiarat-ter, 
while  man,  for  the  must  part,  is  indo- 
h:nf  anil  uniihed  to  l;d)or, — an  abun- 
dant nature  supplyinj»  most  all  hh 
wants  for  (^lotirnif?  and  subsistence. 

Tn  the  Teiiipiri-atedimale,  wheie  th<;re 
Af'.^  louf  seasons,  al>out  e(|\ially  divided, 
there  falls  a  less  amount  of  rain,  owing, 
no  ikaibt,  to  the  siui's  rays  not  alisorl)- 
ina:  so  mueh  mulsture  as  near  the 
etiuntor. "  Tliis  is  tJie  region  for  pure 
lakes,  lovely  streanis,  and  rich  valley-'. ; 
where  win  loves  to  con^ rebate,  and 
'.vhcre  the  hiu;liest  state  of  civilized 
society  is  found  to  exist.  This  I'avored 
region,   however,   i.s  greatly  modiiieti 


by  soil  and  lUittide,  as  M-ell  a.'^  by 
isothein::il  lines,  moderately  increasinx 
in  ttn.pcralnre  on  the  sonlhein  limit: 
vef?etalioii  often  ;u-suu\es  ,i  sidi-tropicul 
!i])pearanee,  and  the  htinuin  race  are 
to  \  ciTtain  extent  unfitted  for  lab<.ir 
duriiij^  tJie  warm  .«eason.  Iti  iho 
mi<hllc  «>f  tli«»  teniperato  zone  num 
atiaitiH  his  >:rtat<'t«t  perfection, — here 
the  cereals,  tiie  «n»ss<^^,  and  the  ;  it, 
yield  an  abiindiui!.  supply  for  the 
anui*»d  kingdoiv.  „nil  -i  surplus  to 
tpare  Jor  !<•(>.•«  favoied  pi.Mi-.r.s  <■•"  iho 
earth.  On  the  northfiu  Iin»i'  -f  ilie 
temperate  zone,  wiiilc  she  o.iA  iii- 
creases  aj-d  v»}:;etuiion  beciiues  moni 
stifised,  the  w;<iers  are  uif.r  r-oix  a!:«.l 
aJivc  wltii  ush  '>/  varinu*!  kind*!  Here 
!i  harxiy  race  of  tiu^n  ntKujiid,  and 
healtii  f^ent^rally  previi!.-.  To  (he 
juii  lb-west,  aion^rthc  chain  of  theCrreat 
Tyokcs  of  Ainciica,  reaching  to  tho 
ba.se  of  tlie  Kocky  Moimtains,  is  tlie 
jt^reat  iie-iith-restortng  region  of  Xorth 
America. 

Dunny  the  Summer  and  early  Fall 
month:^  i.h«  tom{)erature  usually  ratines 
from  tio  lo  80  de^Tess  Falircnheit, 
givinji  'tringt))  uud  vitality  to  the 
huniar:  frame, — mo.st  penvptibiy  fell. 
by  those  visiting  this  region  froi.i  a 
more  !<'>uhern  Jatitu<ie.  Here  all  tbo.^e 
peokir.i;  liealth  and  pleasure  should 
yearlv  a-ort,  as  most  astonishing 
iH.neth  Ji^ts  been  found  by  those  lab<<r- 
ing  ur.<!'r  ro.ipiratory  disoJises  a.'i  well 
an  geuctal  .lebility.  The  I'pper  Fc-- 
ninsiila  of  Michigan,  Ncrlliern  Wis- 
oonsin,  iu.d  the  whole  of  Minnooiv., 


S    I'! 


M 


I  ,    ! 


I 


7 


• 


w 


iilli' 


'1=:; 


—'•  ^^.s 


^Sui' 


■i       is 


f*" 


93 


•:'v 


TO  INVALIDS  AND  SEEKERS  OF  PLEASURE. 


1^  • 


Mountains,  Lakes  and  Rivers  are  the 
elements,  in  the  physical  world,  that  go 
to  purify  tiie  iituj(wi)hc're,  fertilize  the 
soil,  and  heautify  tiic  landscape  for 
the  abode  of  man.  So  intimately  are 
they  connected  i:i  the  economy  of 
Nature  that  they  are  indisi)ensal)le  one 
to  the  other.  From  the  lakes,  rivers 
and  ocean — the  latter  the  recipient  of 
the  former— arises  the  vapor  and  mois- 
ture that  forms  the  clouds, — these  re- 
turning their  distilled  contents,  made 
pure  by  natures  alchemy, — overshadow 
the  moimtain  top  and  the  plain,  and 
descend  in  rain  or  snow,  giving  vigor 
and  life  to  anim<ited  nature  far  and 
wide;  these  intluences  being  modified 
by  that  portion  of  the  earth's  surface 
on  wliich  they  descend.  Hence,  the 
Tropics,  wliich  have  the  greatest  degree 
of  heat  and  moisture — and  wiiere  there 
are  but  two  seasons,  the  wet  and  the 
dry — produce  rank  vegetation,  reptiles, 
and  animals  of  a  ferocious  character, 
while  man,  for  the  most  part,  is  indo- 
lent and  unused  to  labor, — an  abun- 
dant nature  supplying  most  all  his 
wants  for  clothing  and  subsistence. 

In  the  Temperate  cliuiate,  where  there 
are  four  seasons,  about  eipially  divided, 
there  falls  a  less  amount  of  rain,  owing, 
no  doubt,  to  the  sun's  rays  not  absorb- 
ing so  much  moisture  as  near  the 
equator.  This  is  the  region  for  pure 
lakes,  lovely  streams,  and  rich  valleys ; 
where  man  loves  to  congregate,  and 
•where  the  highest  state  of  civilized 
society  is  found  to  exist.  This  favored 
region,  however,  is  greatly  modified 


by  soil  and  altitude,  as  well  as  by 
isothermal  lines,  moderately  increasing 
in  temperature  on  the  southern  limit: 
vegetation  often  assumes  a  sub-troitical 
appearaJice,  and  the  human  race  are 
to  a  certain  extent  unhtteil  for  labor 
during  the  warm  season.  In  the 
middle  of  the  temperate  zone  man 
attains  his  greatest  i)erfection, — here 
the  cereals,  tlie  grasses,  and  the  fruit, 
yield  an  abundant  supply  for  the 
aniuMl  kingdom,  and  a  surplus  to 
spare  for  less  favored  portions  of  the 
earth.  On  the  northern  limit  of  the 
temperate  zone,  while  the  cold  in- 
creases and  vegetation  becomes  more 
stinted,  the  waters  are  more  pure  and 
alive  with  fish  of  various  kinds.  Here 
a  hardy  race  of  men  aboinid,  and 
health  generally  prevails.  To  the 
north-west,  along  the  chain  of  the  Great 
Lakes  of  America,  reaching  to  the 
base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  is  the 
great  health-restoring  region  of  North 
America. 

During  the  Summer  and  early  Fall 
months  the  temperature  usually  ranges 
from  60  to  80  degress  Fahrenheit, 
giving  strength  and  vitality  to  the 
human  frame, — most  j)erceptibly  felt 
by  those  visiting  this  region  from  a 
more  southern  latitude.  Here  all  those 
seeking  health  and  pleasure  should 
yearly  resort,  as  most  astonishing 
benefit  has  been  found  by  those  labor- 
ing under  respiratory  diseases  as  well 
as  general  debility.  The  Upper  Pe- 
ninsula of  Michigan,  Northern  Wis- 
consin, and  the  whole  of  Minnesota, 


H 


Tnl  r 


m 


»  ;  I  I 


"I 


94 


TO  INVALIDS  AND  SEEKERS  OF  PLEASURE. 


are  favorably  situated  as  regards  health, 
bi'iiij^  a  most  delightful  resort,  free 
from  the  heat  of  the  Summer  months. 
The  more  northern,  and  less  favored 
portion  of  the  earth's  surface,  lying  to 
the  north  of  the  temperate  zone,  is  given 
up  to  cold,  too  intense  for  vegetation 
that  goes  to  sustain  the  human  race, — 
hence,  to  the  north  of  the  Upper 
Lakes,  in  Caruula,  settlements  cease  to 
exist,  except  where  is  found  a  Hudson 
Bay  Company's  Post,  or  a  tribe  of 
roving  Indians.  So  abrupt  is  this 
civilization,  that,  for  lifteen  hundred 
miles  from  the  head  waters  of  the 
Saguenay  river  to  the  head  of  Lake 
Superior,  along  the  North  Shore,  no 


villages  are  now  found  to  exist.  Here, 
however,  sportsmen  resort  for  hunting 
and  Hshing  during  the  sumnuT  months, 
the  air  being  pure  and  invigorating. 
To  the  west  of  Lake  Superior,  on  the 
Upj)er  Mississippi  and  the  Ktd  River 
of  the  North,  tlie  climate  is  modified 
by  a  Siberian  Sinnvier,  atlurding  three 
months  of  warm  weather,  which  brings 
cereals  and  vegetables  to  great  perfec- 
tion, rendering  this  portion  of  North 
America  capable  of  sustaining  a  dense 
poindation. 

riiis  region  of  country  will,  no 
doubt,  soon  become  a  great  resort  for 
invalids  and  sportsmen  during  the 
Summer  months. 


MEDICAL  INFLUENCE  OF  CLIMATE. 


"The  Influence  of  Climate  on  human 
life  is  now  so  imiversally  allowed,  that 
it  is  quite  unnecessary  for  us  to  say  a 
word  resj)ecting  its  beneficial  action 
on  the  animal  economy;  the  benefit 
resulting  from  the  change  from  a  cold, 
humid  atmosphere,  to  a  warm,  dry 
one,  is  also  aa  well  understood,  and  as 
marked  in  its  eflects,  as  a  change  of 
treatment  from  an  ignorant  to  a  scien- 
tific system  is  satisfactory  and  apparent. 
The  infiuence  exercised  on  the  respira- 
tory organs  and  the  skin  by  a  bland 
atmosphere  is  not  only  immediate  but 


ny>parent — not  merely  confined  to  those 
organs,  but,  by  the  improved  condition 
of  the  blood,  resulting  from  such  a 
change,  reciprocating  the  benefit  acquired 
on  the  brain,  by  the  quicker  and  lively 
state  of  the  imagination — on  the  nutri- 
tive system,  by  a  fuller  condition  of 
the  body  from  a  perfect  digestion ;  and 
on  the  nervous  temperament,  by  the 
more  regular  and  natural  performance 
of  all  the  functions  of  the  body — the 
best  indication  at  all  times  of  sound 
physical  health." — Zell's  Encyclopedia. 


"Seek  Natures  perfect  cure:" 
"  Throw  physic  to  the  dogs," 


95 


ADVICE  TO  PLEASURE  TRAVELLERS. 


Toi'KlsTS,  in  Rcnrch  of  licalth  or 
pleasure,  who  intend  to  vinit  ti.e  region 
of  the  Great  LulveH  of  America,  if 
starting  from  New  York  or  any  of  tiie 
cities  of  tiie  eastern  or  middle  States, 
are  advised  to  take  the  most  direct 
route  for  Niagaua  Fali*^,  wliere  may 
be  seen  the  magnitude  of  the  accumu- 
lated waters  of  the  "  Inland  Seas,"  as 
exhil)ited  by  viewing  the  American 
and  Canadian,  or  Horse-Shoe  Fall  of 
this  mighty  Cataract.  The  Suspension 
IJridges,  Kapids,  and  Islands,  with 
other  objects  combined,  form  attrac- 
tions that  will  profitably  employ  sev- 
eral days  sojourn  at  thia  fashionable 
resort. 

Here  are  several  well-kept  Hotels, 
both  on  the  American  and  Canadian 
sides  of  the  river,  from  whence  de- 
lightful drives  are  aflbrded  in  almost 
every  direction,  while  bringing  into 
view  new  objects  of  interest,  either  on 
ascending  on  descending  the  banks  of 
this  majestic  stream — tliis  whole  sec- 
tion of  country,  al)ove  and  below  the 
Falls,  being  historic  ground.  The  bat- 
tle-fields of  Chippewa,  Lundy's  Lane, 
Queenstown,  and  old  Fort  George,  op- 
posite Fort  Niagara,  on  the  American 
side,  all  deserve  a  visit.  (For  further 
description,  see  page  21.) 

On  leaving  Niagara  Falls  the  tourist 
can  proceed  westward,  via  the  Great 
Western  Railway  of  Canada,  to  Detroit, 
230  miles,  passing  through  an  interest- 
ing section  of  Canada ;  or,  proceed  to 
Buffalo,  by  rail,  22  miles. 


Grand  Pleasure  Excursion, 
tiikouuu  lakes  iil'uon  andsupkuior. 


T   I 


Steamers  of  a  large  class  leave  Buf- 
falo, during  the  season  of  navigation, 
every  alternate  day  for  Erie,  CUvelund 
and  Detroit,  proceeding  on  their  way 
to  the  S<iut  aSV«.  Marie  and  Dulutli,  Lake 
Superior,  a  distance  of  about  1,200 
miles. 

Passengers  taking  the  Round  Trip 
can  stop,  to  suit  their  convenience,  at 
any  of  the  Lake  ports,  before  arriving 
at  Detroit.  The  City  of  Krie,  90  miles 
from  Huffulo,  is  a  place  of  growing 
imjiortance,  where  terminates  the 
Philadelphia  and  Erie  Railroad,  form- 
ing a  direct  and  speedy  conmiunication 
with  the  cities  of  New  York,  Phila- 
delphia and  Baltimore.  This  is  a  fa- 
vorite line  of  travel,  crossing  the  Alle- 
ghany range  and  connecting  with  the 
Great  Lakes.  The  City  of  Cleveland, 
95  miles  further,  is  fast  becoming  a 
great  mart  of  trade,  and  a  stopping- 
place  for  pleasure  travellers.  The 
railroad  lines,  in  connection  with  its 
shipping  fiicilities,  afford  this  port 
great  commercial  advantages— no  city 
on  the  Lakes  exceeding  it  in  natural 
advantages  as  regards  a  healthy  cli- 
mate, lovely  situation,  beautiful  ave- 
nues, and  delightful  drives.  Steamers 
run  from  this  place  to  Put-in-Bay, 
Kelley's  Island,  Sandusky  and  Toledo, 
as  well  as  direct  to  Detroit,  Mich.,  each 
affording  pleasant  summer  excursions. 


;•  1 1' 


;  i 


96 


TRIP  THROUOH   THE  LAKES. 


On  leaving  Detroit,  if  bound  for 
Lake  Superior,  commences  tli^;  Grand 
Excursion — passing  through  Lake  St. 
Clair  and  St.  Clair  river,  forming  the 
boundary  between  tlie  United  States 
and  Canada.  The  steamer  usually 
stops  at  Sarnia,  Can.,  or  Port  Huron, 
Mich,  to  land  and  receive  passengers. 
Immediately,  after  leaving  the  latter 
port,  Point  Edward  and  Fort  Gratiot 
are  passed,  and  the  steamer  enters  the 
broad  waters  of  Lake  Huron.  Here 
is  experienced  during  warm  weather 
the  most  delightful  change  imaginable. 
The  upward  bound  vessels  usually  keep 
near  the  Michigan  shore,  on  the  left, 
while  on  the  right  nothing  but  the 
broad  waters  are  visible  for  some  two 
hundred  miles. 

Point  au  Barque  and  Light  are 
reached  70  miles  above  Port  Huron, 
and  Saginaw  Bay  entered,  here  pre- 
senting a  most  magnificent  expanse  of 
waters,  which,  in  stormy  weather  is 
dreaded  by  the  mariner.  The  sight 
of  land  is  usually  lost  to  view  until 
Thunder  Bay  and  Light  are  sighted, 
75  miles  from  Point  au  Barque.  The 
steamer  now  runs  direct  for  the  De 
Tour  passage,  85  miles  further,  when 
the  grand  and  lovely  St.  M  iry's  river 
is  entered,  presenting  a  succession  of 
islands,  lakes  or  expansions — affording 
a  view  of  river  scenery  of  the  most 
enchanting  character,  before  arriving 
at  the  Saut  Ste.  Marie,  the  gate-way 
to  Lake  Superior. 

Saut  Ste.  Marie,  in  connection 
with  the  Ship  Canal,  Fort  Brady,  and 
the  lisheries  below  the  rapids — the 
rapids  themselves  having  a  descent  of 
20  feet — and  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany's post  on  the  Canada  side,  present 
great  and  varied  attractions,      ilere 


fishing  parties  are  fitted  out  for  long 
excursions  along  the  Canada  or  North 
Shore  of  Lake  Superior, — often  pro- 
ceeding as  far  as  the  Nepigon  river, 
where  brook  trout,  of  a  large  size,  are 
taken  in  great  quantities. 

On  the  American  or  Sf^uth  Shore  of 
the  Lake  lies  Grand  Island  Harbor, 
where  are  two  or  three  settlements, 
situated  near  the  Pictured  Kocks,  120 
miles  above  ib.e  Saut.  Here  are  many 
points  of  attraction,  which,  no  doubt, 
is  destined  to  become  a  fashionable 
resort. 

Marquette,  170  miles  above  the 
Saut,  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most 
frequented  resorts  for  invalids  and 
seekers  of  pleasure  that  the  Lake  re- 
gion affords.  Comfortable  hotels  and 
boarding  houses  are  here  wanted  in 
order  to  make  this  embryo  city  the 
"Newport"  of  the  Upper  Lakes. 

Houghton,  Copper  Harbor,  Ea- 
gle Harbor,  and  Eagle  Kiver,  situ- 
ated on  Keweenaw  Point  are  all  places 
of  great  attraction. 

Ontonagon,  Bayfield  and  La 
PoiNTE,  situated  on  one  of  the  Twelve 
Apostle  Islands  are  old  and  favorite 
resorts. 

DuLUTii  and  Superior  City,  situ- 
ated at  the  head  of  the  Lake,  where 
enters  the  St.  Louis  river,  have  become 
places  of  great  attraction,  in  a  com- 
mercial point  of  view.  Here  parties 
are  fitte  1  out  who  desire  to  explore  the 
North  oiiore  either  for  fishing  or  seek- 
ing health  and  pleasure  on  the  pure 
waters  of  this  Inland  Sea. 

Tourists  seeking  health  and  plearir.re 
may  safely  start  on  this  excursion  in 
June,  and  remain  in  the  Lake  Region 
or  Upper  Mississippi  Valley  until 
Cltetober. 


APPEOAOHES  TO  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


There  are  now  six  Great  Routes 

of  Travel  open  to  Tourists  to  and  from 
the  Lake  Superior  country. 

The  first  is  by  the  Lake  Superior 
Line  Steamers.  Starting?  from  Buffalo 
and  stopping  at  Erie  and  Clevehmd,  they 
pass  through  Lake  Erie  and  enter  the 
Detroit  River,  stopping  at  Detroit  to  land 
and  receive  passengers  —  cross  Lake  St. 
Clair,  and  ascend  the  St.  Clair  Kiver  to 
Port  Huron,  Mich.,  stopping  at  Fort 
Gratiot,  where  the  Grand  Trunk  Rail- 
way of  Canada  crosses  ''  e  river  near 
Sarnia.  Tlie  broad  waters  of  Lake  Hu- 
ron are  next  crossed  —  passing  Saginaw 
Bay  —  then  St.  Mary's  River  is  entered 
at  Point  de  Tour,  passing  upwards  to  the 
Saut  Ste.  Marie,  and  through  the  Ship 
Canal  to  Lake  Superior;  a  distance  of 
about  400  miles  from  Detroit. 

The  second  is  by  the  Canadian  route, 
starting  from  Toronto  and  proceeding  by 
Northern  Railway  of  Canada  to  CoUing- 
wood,  94  miles;  then  crossing  Georgian 
Bay  and  passing  through  the  North 
Channel  and  St.  Mary's  River  to  Saut 
Ste.  Marie,  entering  Lake  Superior  and 
running  along  the  Nonh  Shore.  Tliis 
route  affords  some  of  the  grandest  lake 
and  river  scenery  imaginable. 

The  third  is  by  the  Chicago  and  Mil- 
waukee Line  of  Steamers,  passing  through 
Lake  Michigan  and  the  Straits  of  Mack- 
inac for  a  distance  of  about  400  miles, 
when  the  far-famed  Island  of  Mackinac 
is  reached ;  from  thence  the  steamers  run 
to  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Mary's  River,  as- 
cending this  beautiful  stream  to  Lake 
Superior ;  a  total  distance  of  500  miles 
from  Chicago. 


The  fourth  is  via  the  Chicayo  and 
Nortli-u'cstern  Railroad,  running  to  Green 
Bay  and  P^scanaba,  M'ch.,  and  from 
thence  by  the  Peninaula  Railroad  to  Mar- 
rpiette,  situated  on  the  South  Shore  of 
Lake  Superior;  a  total  distance  of  4ol 
miles.  This  route  is  direct  and  speedy, 
passing  through  an  interesting  section  of 
country  for  most  of  the  distance. 

The  fifth  is  via  St.  Paul,  passing 
over  the  Lake  Superior  and  Mianisitippi 
Railroad  to  Duluth,  155  miles.  This 
route  atl()r(ls  an  easy  access  to  the  Lake 
Superior  region  from  the  South ;  pashing 
up  tlie  noble  Mississippi  to  the  head  of 
navigation, — uniting  tiie  "Imperial  Lakes 
with  the  Father  of  Waters." 

The  sixth  is  via  the  Northern  Pacific 
Railroad,  now  completed  from  Duluth  to 
the  Upper  Missouri  River,  a  distance  of 
460  miles.  This  imi)ortant  railroad, 
when  linished,  will  extend  to  Puget 
Sound,  Washington  Territory,  with  a 
branch  running  to  Portland,  Oregon. 
It  now  affords  a  direct  line  to  travel  to 
Fort  Garry,  Manitoba.  The  favorable 
features  of  this  extended  route  Across 
the  Continent,  in  a  commercial  and  cli- 
matic point  of  view,  cannot  be  over-esti- 
mated, which  will  afford  a  speedy  and 
desirable  route  '^Around  the  World." 

Two  other  Lines  of  Railroad  will 
soon  be  completed,  affording  additional 
means  of  reacliing  Lake  Superior,  viz. : 
the  Grand  Rapids  and  Indiana  Railroad, 
extending  from  Fort  Wayne,  Ind.,  to 
Old  Mackinac,  Mich.,  and  the  Wixcomin 
Central  Railroad,  running  from  Menadia 
and  Portage  City,  Wisconsin,  to  Ash- 
land, on  the  South  Shore  of  Lake  Su- 
perior. 


Note.  —  The  numerous  Lines  of  Railroad,  on  the  East  and  South,  which  con- 
nect with  the  above  Through  Lines  of  Travel  to  Lake  Superior,  make  this  whole 
region  of  country  easily  accessible  to  the  pleasure  traveller  or  man  of  business. 


1- 1 1 


m 


im 


l^i.l! 


98 


TRIP  THROUOH  THE  LAKES. 


HINTS  TO  PLEASURE  TRAVELLERS. 


1.  Purchase  through  tickets  pre- 
viously to  entering  the  cars. 

2.  Attend  to  checking  your  baggage 
J  in  person  before  taking  your  seat  in 

the  car. 

3.  Select  a  seat  on  the  shady  side  of 
the  car. 

4.  When  you  leave  your  seat,  place 
a  parcel,  coat,  or  something  belonging 
to  you  on  it,  which  is  an  evidence  of 
the  seat  being  engaged. 

5.  Have  the  exact  change  to  pay 
your  fare  on  the  cars,  or  you  are  sub- 
jected to  be  ejected  from  the  cars — it 
has  been  decided  by  law  that  a  con- 
ductor is  not  obliged  to  make  change 
for  a  passenger. 

6.  Railroad  Checks  are  good  only 
for  the  train  for  which  they  are  used ; 
passengers  cannot  lay  over  for  another 
train  without  making  arrangements 
with  the  conductor. 

7.  Ladies  without  escort  in  travel- 
ling should  be  very  particular  with 
whom  they  become  acquainted. 

"If  yotir  lips  wotild  save  from  slips, 
Vive  tliinji;s  oljsc^rve  witli  caro: 
Of  wlidin  yoH  spt'ak — to  whom  you  speak, 
And  huw — and  when— and  where." 

8.  If  you    see  a   lady  unaccom- 

{)anied,  do  not  obtrude  yourself  upon 
ler  notice. 

9.  If  she  needs  your  services,  tender 
them  as  though  they  were  due  to  her, 
without  unnecessary  forwardness  or  un- 
due empressment. 

10.  Such  services  do  not  entitle  you 
to  after  recognition,  unless  by  permis- 
sion of  the  lady. 

11.  Ladies  ti:avelling  with  children 
should  invariably  have  a  basket  of 
eatables,  a  tumbler  or  a  goblet,  for  the 
children  to  drink  from,  and  keep  the 
children  in  their  seats. 


12.  Keep  your  head  and  arms  inside 
the  car  windows. 

13.  Never  talk  on  politics  in  the  cars 
— it  is  usually  disagreeable  to  some  of 
your  fellow-travellers. 

14.  Never  talk  loudly  while  the 
train  is  in  motion ;  it  may  not  annoy 
any  one,  but  it  will  injure  your  lungs. 

15.  A  gentleman  should  not  occupy 
more  than  one  seat  at  a  time. 

16.  Gentlemen  should  not  spit  to- 
bacco juice  in  the  cars  where  there  are 
ladias;  it  soils  tlieir  skirts  and  dresses. 

17.  Always  show  your  ticket  (with- 
out getting  into  a  bad  humor,)  when- 
ever the  conductor  asks  for  it.  Observe 
this  rule  and  it  will  pay. 

18.  Never  smoke  in  a  car  where 
there  are  ladies.  No  gentlemen  would 
be  guilty  of  such  an  act. 

19.  Never  use  profane  language  in 
a  railroad  car. 

20.  If  you  cannot  sleep  yourself, 
don't  prevent  others  from  doing  so,  by 
whistling  or  loud  talking. 

21.  Make  a  bargain  with  the  hack- 
man  before  getting  into  his  carriage. 

22.  Look  out  for  pickpockets. 

23.  Remember,  that  unless  you  pay 
for  two  seats  you  are  entitled  to  but 
one,  and  every  gentlemen  and  lady 
too,  will  respect  the  rights  of  others, 
and  be  mindful  especially  of  the  weak, 
the  aged,  and  the  infirm. 

24.  Provide  yourself  with  sleeping 
berths  before  starting — you  may  then 
have  a  choice — the  double  lower  birth 
is  preferable. 

25.  Always  be  at  the  railroad  station 

in  good  time  to  take  the  train.     Belter 

be  an  hour  too  early  than  a  minute  too 

late. 

Note. — Many  of  the  above  rales  are  as  appli- 
cable to  Staamboat  travellinR  as  when  truycl- 
ling  (/n  Railroads.  Often  much  comfort  can  bo 
obtained  by  writing  or  sending  a  telegraph  in 
order  to  secure  state  rooms,  &c. 


■If: 


f  H  1 


■i 


99 


TABLE   OF   DISTANCES, 

From  Buffalo,  Euie,  Cleveland  and  Detroit,  to  the  Saut  Ste. 

Marie  and  Duluth,  Minn. 

passing  TUROUGII   lakes  ERIE,  HURON  AND  SUPERIOR. 


MILES. 

GfiO 
029 
620 
592 
572 
557 
544 
531 
505 
475 
415 
375 
373 
365 
356 
355 
348 
315 
309 
299 
282 

280 


269 
258 
246 
232 
216 
210 

135 
50 


PORTS,  iiO.  MILES. 

BrFFAtO,  N.  Y...  0 

Silver  Creek 31 

Dunkirk 9  40 

State  Line 28  68 

Erie,  Pa 20  88 

Girard 15  103 

Conneaut,  Oiiio 13  116 

Ashtabula 13  129 

Painesville 26  155 

Cleveland 30  185 

Point  Pelee  I«.  &  Light...60  245 

Malden,  Can 40  285 

Groyse  Isle,  Mich 2  287 

Wyandotte,     "    8  295 

Windsor,  Can 9  304 

l>etroit,  Mich 1  305 

Lai     St.  Clair 7  312 

Algonac,  Mich 33  345 

Newport,  "    6  351 

St.  Clair,  "    10  361 

Port  Huron,  \      ,7  q-q 

Sarnia,  Can.          / ^'  *^'^ 

P'oRT  Gratiot 2  380 

{Lake  Huron.) 

Lakeport,  Mich 11  391 

Lexington,     "    11  402 

Port  Sanilac"    12  414 

Forre.'^tville  "    14  428 

Port  Hope,  Mich 16  444 

Point  an  Barque — \        ^  .-^ 

oft'  Saginaw  Bay,  (  -•  ^  ^^^ 

Thunder  Bay  Island 75  525 

Point  de  Tour—)      q^  />ia 

St.  Mary's  River, /-^^  ^^^ 
*  A  distance  of  S5  miles  is  saved 


MILES. 

14 
0 


PORTS,  to. 


MILES. 


Church's  Landing... .36       646 
Saut  Ste.  Marie.  14      660 

(Ship  Canal  and  Ilapids.) 


570 
564 
555 

530 


470 
452 
446 

436 
400 
350 
320 


Hani  Ste.  Marie. 

Point  aux  Pin.s,  Cati.  6 
Pt.  Iroquois  &  Light )    „ 
— Gros  Cap,  Can.       j 
White  Fish  Point 25 

{Lake  Superior.) 

Grand  Sauble 60 

Cascade  Falls 18 

Pictured  R'ks— Cha-  \    g 

pel.  Arch.  Rock,  Ac  / 
Grand  Is.  and  Harbor.lO 

Marquette,  Mich..36 
Huron  la.  and  Light. ..50 
Portage  Entry 30 


(Houghton  &  Hancock,  14  M 

270  Keweenaw  Point 50 

255  Copper  Harbor 15 

239  Eagle  Harbor 16 

229  Eagle  River 19 

209  Entrance  Ship  Canal*.20 

169  Ontonagon,  Mich 40 

89  LAPoiNTE,Wis 80 

86  Bayfield      "  3 


{Txcelve  Apostle  Islands.) 

6    Superior  City,  Wis.. 80 
0    Dulnlh,  Minn 6 

by  passing  through  the  Ship  Canal. 


660 
666 

675 

700 


760 

778 

784 

794 
8.30 
880 
910 

iles.) 

960 
975 
991 
1,001 
1,021 
1,061 
1,141 
1,144 

1,224 
1,230 


11 


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IVA 


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li:i  ;r 

S  hi 

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-II 


TO  S££KERS  OF  HEALTH  AND  PLEASURE. 


|r5iift  f  liaittn  ^tmtm  kt  tli  |ei|5i  el  1874 


-FROM — 


BUFFALO,  ERIE,  CLEVELAND  AND  DETROIT, 

TO    GULUTH    AHG    ST.    PAUL, 

PASSING   THROUGH 
To    pONTINUE    DURING    THE    SuMMER    MoNTHS. 


A  Daily  Line  of  Stkamers  will  run  from  Buffalo,  Brie,  &c.,  to  Saut 
Ste.  Marie,  Marquette  and  Duluth, — Connecting  with  Curs  on  the  Lake 
Superior  &  Mississippi  Railroad,  running  to  St.  Paul,  Minn. 

From  St.  Paul  Steamers  run  Daily  on  the  Mississippi  River,  during 
the  season  of  Navigation,  to  La  Oross'e,  Prairie  du  Chien,  Dubuque 
an<l  St.  Louis, — Connecting  with  the  Lines  of  Railroad  running  to  Mil- 
"waukee,  Chicago  and  Detroit, — thus  furnishing  a  Round  Trip  of  over 
hvo  thousand  miles,  hy  land  and  water,  through  one  of  the  most  healthy  and 
interesting  regions  on  the  Continent. 


DULUTH  TO  BISMARCK,  DAKOTA, 

VIA 

NORTHERN   PACIFIC   RAILROAD 


This  new  and  Health-Restoring  Line  op  Travel,  by  means  of  steamers 
on  the  Upper  Lakes  of  America  aflbrds  an  extended  Excursion  of  1,650 
miles  from  Buffalo  to  Bismarck,  Dakota — connecting  with  Steamers  on  the 
Red  River  of  the  Nortli,  and  on  the  Upper  Missouri,  extending  for  1,200  miles, 
further  to  FoijT  Benton,  Montana — forming  altogether  the 

GRANDEST  EXCURSION  IN  THE  WORLD. 


101 


m 


TRIP  THROUGH  THE  LAKES, 

GIVING  A  DESCRIPTION  OF  CITIES,  TOWNS,  &c. 


BufTalo,  "Queen  City  of  the 
Lakes,"  possessing  commanding  ad- 
vantages, being  22  miles  above  Niagara 
Falls,  is  distant  from  Albany  298  miles 
by  Railroad,  about  350  miles  by  the 
line  of  the  Erie  Canal,  and  443  miles 
N.  W.  of  the  Citv  of  New  York  ;  in 
N.  lat.  42°  53^  W.  long.  78°  55/  from 
Greenwich.  It  is  favorably  situated 
for  commerce  .at  tlie  head  of  Niagara 
River,  the  outlet  of  Lake  Erie,  and  at 
the  foot  of  the  great  chain  of  Upper 
Lakes,  and  is  the  point  where  the  vast 
trade  of  these  Inland  Seas  is  concen- 
trated. The  harbor,  formed  of  Buflalo 
Creek,  lies  nearly  east  and  west  across 
the  southern  part  of  the  city,  and  is 
separated  from  the  waters  of  Lake  Erie 
by  a  peninsula  between  the  creek  and 
lake.  This  harbor  is  a  very  secure 
one,  and  is  of  such  capacity,  that  al- 
though steamboats,  propellers,  barques, 
schooners,  and  other  lake  craft,  and 
canal-boats,  to  the  number,  in  all,  of 
from  three  to  four  hundred,  have  some- 
times  been  assembled  there  for  the 


transaction  of  the  business  of 
the  lakes,  yet  not  one-half 
part  of  the  water  acconunoda- 
tions  has  ever  yet  been  occu- 
pied by  the  vast  business  of 
the  great  and  growing  West. 
The  harbor  of  Buflalo  is  the 
most  capacious,  and  really  the 
easiest  and  safest  of  access  on 
our  inland  waters.  lnii)rove- 
nients  are  annually  made  by 
dredging,  by  the  construction 
of  new  piers,  wharves,  warehouses,  and 
elevators,  which  extend  its  facilities, 
and  render  the  discharge  and  trans- 
shipment of  cargoes  more  rapid  and 
convenient ;  and  in  this  latter  respect 
it  is  without  an  equal- 

Bufl'alo  was  first  settled  by  the  whites 
in  1801.  In  1832  it  was  chartered  as 
a  city,  being  now  governed  by  a  mayor, 
recorder,  and  board  of  aldermen.  Its 
Population  in  1830,  according  to  the 
I'nited  States  Censu-,  was  8,668;  in 
1840, 18,213;  and  in  1850, 42,261.  Since 
the  latter  period  tiie  limits  of  the  city 
have  been  enlarged  by  taking  in  the 
town  of  Black  Rock  ;  it  is  now  divided 
into  thirteen  wards,  and  accorditig  to 
the  Census  of  18()0,  contained  81,130 
inhabitants,  in  1870, 117,715,  being  now 
the  third  city  in  point  of  size  in  the 
State.  The  public  buildings  are  nume- 
rous, and  many  of  them  fine  s[)ecimena 
of  architecture  while  tiie  private  build- 
ings, particularly  those  for  business 
purposes,  are  of  the  most  durable  con- 
struction and  modern  sty  le.   The  manu- 


>■■. 


: 


v.'     f 


m 


Hi 


r^ 


102 


TRIP  THROUGH  THE  LAKES. 


facturinj.'  cstablitihrnentfl,  including  sev- 
eral exteasive  ship-yards  for  the  build- 
ing and  ri^pairing  of  lake  craft,  are  also 
lunnerous  and  conducted  on  a  large 
flcale,  producing  n»anufactured  arti- 
cles for  the  Americvn  and  Canadian 
markets. 

The  principal  public  buildings  are 
an  United  States  Custom-House  and 
Post-Office,  State  Insane  Asylum,  City 
Hall,  Court  House,  and  Jail ;  two 
Theatres,  and  sixty  Chu-chesof  dift'er- 
ent  denominations.  Here  are  also  (light 
Banking  Houses,  six  Savings  Banks, 
several  Fire  and  Marine  Insurance 
Companies,  and  thirty  lar^e  Iillevators, 
with  a  capacity  of  storing  upwards  of 
8,000,000  busiiels  of  grain.  The  Buf- 
falo Park  is  known  a-s  one  cf  the  most 
famous  parks  in  the  country, 

The  Lines  of  Steamers  und  Rail- 
roads diverging  from  Buffalo  tend  to 
make  it  one  oi"  the  greatest  thorough- 
fares in  the  Union.  Steamers  and  Pro- 
pellers run  to  Cleveland,  Sandusky, 
Toledo,  Detroit,  Mackinac,  Gn^en  Bay, 
Milwaukee,  and  Chicago ;  also,  to  Sault 
Ste,  Marie  and  ports  on  Lake  Superior. 

During  the  Season  of  1874  two  Lines 
of  Steamers,  of  a  large  class,  >\ill  run 
from  Buffalo,  stopping  at  Erie,  Cleve- 
land and  Detroit,  to  Duluth. 

KAILRUADa   BUNNINO   PttOM   BUFFALO. 

1.  New  York  Central,  to  Albary  and 
Troy,  2(18  miles. 

2.  Buffalo,  Niagara  Fails  and  Lewis- 
ton,  28  miles. 

;}.  Erie  Railway,  running  to  the  City 
of  New  York,  44.S  miles. 

4.  Lake  Shore  Ra  llroad,  to  CI  ev  si  and, 
Ohio,  183  miles,  and  thence  to  Chicago. 

5.  Buffalo,  Corry  and  Pift8burg,i,  run- 
ning to  Corry,  Penn.,  92  miles. 

6.  Buffalo  and  Jamestown  Railroad. 

7.  Buffalo,  New  York  and  Pkiladd- 


pJda,  running  to   Emporium,  Penn., 
121  miles. 

8.  Great  Western  (Canada)  Raihvay 
(Suspension  Bridge  to  Detroit,  Mich.) 
230  miles;  also,  from  International 
Bridge. 

9.  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  running 
from  International  Bridge  to  Goderich, 
Can.,  lUO  miles. 

10.  Caiuida  Southern  Railway,  run- 
ning from  Butiiilo,  via  international 
Bridge,  to  Amherstburg,  Can.,  Detroit, 
Toledo,  &c. 

There  are  also  four  Lines  of  City 
Railroads  running  to  diflerent  points 
within  the  limits  of  Buliiilo. 

The  principal  Hotels  are  the  Tifft 
House,  and  Mansion  House,  on  Main 
Street.  A  new  Public  House  with  all 
the  modern  improvements  is  much 
needed  in  Buffalo. 

The  Erie  Canal  terminating  at  Buf- 
falo, and  the  numerous  Lines  of  Pro- 
pellers running  on  Lake  Erie  and  the 
Upper  Lakes,  in  connection  with  the 
Lines  of  Railroad,  transport  an  im- 
mense amount  of  agricultural  products 
and  merchandise  to  and  from  the  East- 
ern markets. 

The  completion  of  the  International 
Bridge  at  Black  Rock  affords  great 
facilities  for  travel,  passing  through 
Buffalo  and  Canada  to  the  Far  West. 


"The  climate  of  Bufl^alo  is,  without 
doubt,  of  a  more  even  temperature  than 
any  other  city  in  the  same  parallel  of 
latitude  from  the  Mississippi  to  the 
Atlantic  Coast.  Observations  have 
shown  that  the  thermometer  never 
ranges  as  low  in  winter,  nor  as  high  in 
summer,  as  at  points  in  ^lassachusetts, 
the  eastern  and  central  portions  of  this 
State,  the  northern  and  southern  shores 
of  Lake  Erie  in  Michigan,  northern 
Illinois,  and  Wisconsin. 


STEAMBOAT  ROUTE  TO   CTjEVELAND,   TOLEDO,    DETROIT,  ETC. 


103 


"  Ruffalo,  with  its  broad,  well-paved 
streets  and  sliade-tree-f ;  its  compara- 
tively mild  winters;  its  cool  summers; 
its  pleasant   drives    and    picturesque 


suburbs,  and  its  proximity  to  the 
^Fdlln,'  combine  to  render  it  one  of 
the  most  desirable  residences  on  the 
continent." 


STEAMBOAT  ROUTE   FROM  BUFFALO  TO  CLEVELAND, 

TOLEDO,  DETROIT,  &c. 


Stfoamers  and  Propellers  of  a  large 
class  leave  Butlalo  daily,  during  the 
season  of  navigation,  for  the  diflerent 
ports  on  the  American  or  south  shore 
of  Lake  Erie,  connecting  with  Rail- 
road cars  at  P>ie,  Cleveland,  Sandusky, 
Toledo,  and  Detroit,  for  tlie  East,  South 
and  West. 

On  leaving  Buflalo  harbor,  which  ia 
formed  by  the  mouth  of  Buffalo  Creek 
— where  is  erected  a  breakwater  by  the 
United  States  government — a  fine  view 
is  afibrded  of  the  City  of  Buffalo,  the 
Canada  shore,  and  Lake  Erie  stretch- 
ing off  in  the  distance,  with  here  and 
there  a  steamer  or  sail  vessel  in  sight. 
As  the  steamer  proceeds  westward, 
through  the  middle  of  the  lake,  the 
landscape  fades  in  the  distance,  until 
nothing  is  visible  but  a  broad  expanse 
of  green  waters. 

8TUuof:oN  Point,  20  miles  from 
Bufialo,  is  passed  on  the  south  shore, 
when  the  lake  immediately  widens, 
by  the  land  receding  on  both  shores. 
During  the  prevalence  of  storms,  when 
the  full  blast  of  the  wind  sweeps 
through  this  lake,  its  force  is  now  felt 
in  its  full  power,  driving  the  angry 
waves  forward  with  the  velocity  of  the 
race-horse,  often  causing  the  waters  to 
rise  at  the  lower  end  of  the  lake  to  a 
great  height,  so  as  to  overflow  its  banks 
and  forcing  its  surplus  waters  into  the 
Niagara  river,  which  causes  the  only 
perceptible  rise  and  increase  of  the 
rush  of  waters  at  the  Falls. 


Dunkirk,  N.  Y.,  40  miles  from 
Buflalo,  is  advantageously  situated  on 
the  shore  of  Lake  Erie,  where  termi- 
nates the  New  York  and  Erie  llailwny, 
460  miles  in  length.  Here  is  a  gocxj 
and  secure  harbor,  aflbrding  about 
twelve  feet  of  water  over  the  bar.  A 
light-house,  a  beacon-light,  and  break- 
water, the  latter  in  a  dilapidated  state, 
have  here  been  erected  by  the  I'nited 
States  government.  As  an  anchorage 
and  port  of  refuge  this  harbor  is  ex- 
tremely valuable,  and  is  much  resorted 
to  for  that  purpose  by  steamers  and 
sail  vessels  during  the  prevalence  of 
storms. 

The  village  was  incorporated  in  1837, 
and  now  contains  about  i^even  thousand 
inhabitants,  eight  hundred  dwelling- 
houses,  five  churches,  a  bank,  three 
hotels,  and  thirty  stores  of  (lifl'erent 
kinds,  besides  several  extensive  store- 
houses and  manufacturing  establish- 
ments. 

FuEPONiA,  three  miles  from  Dim- 
kirk,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a 
plank-road,  is  handsomely  situated, 
being  elevated  about  100  feet  above 
Lake  Erie.  It  contains  about  twenty- 
five  hinidred  inhabitants,  three  hun- 
dred dwelling-houses,  five  churches, 
one  bank,  an  incorporated  academy, 
four  taverns,  twenty  stores,  besides 
some  mills  and  maiujfacturing  estab- 
lishments situated  on  Canadoway 
Creek,  which  here  affords  good  water- 
power.     In  the  village,  near  the  bed 


11 


U. 


!■  ;!'■ 


104 


TRIP  THROtTGH  THE  LAKE8. 


Nil 


V- 


f     ■ 


of  the  Treek,  is  an  inflammable  spring, 
from  which  escapes  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  gas  to  light  the  village. 

Wkstfield,  N.  Y.,  17  miles  from 
Dnnkir'c,  is  a  handsome  village  on 
till'  line  of  the  Railroatl. 

Ripley,  65  miles,  and  State  Line, 
68  miles,  are  small  settlements  that 
are  passed  before  entering  the  State  of 
Pennsylvania. 

NoKTii  East,  Erie  Co.,  Pa.,  is  a 
small  village,  73  miles  from  Buffalo 
and  15  miles  from  the  City  of  Erie. 

Hakhor  Creek,  7  miles  further, 
is  another  small  village  situated  near 
Lake  ICrie. 

IDrie,  "The  Lake  City  OF  Penn- 
sylvania," distant  451  miles  from 
Philadelphia  by  railroad,  90  miles 
from  Bufialo,  and  95  miles  from 
Cleveland,  is  beautifully  situated  on 
a  bluff)  affording  a  prospect  of  Pre.sque 
Isle  Bay  and  the  Lake  beyond.  It 
has  one  of  the  largest  and  best  harbors 
on  Lake  Erie,  from  whence  sailed 
Commodore  Perry's  fleet  during  the 
war  of  1812.  The  most  of  the  ves.sel3 
were  here  built,  being  finished  in  sev- 
enty days  from  the  time  the  trees  were 
felled  ;  and  here  the  gallant  victor  re- 
turned with  his  prizes  after  the  naval 
battle  of  Lake  Erie,  which  took  place 
off  Put-in-Bay,  September  10,  1813. 
The  remains  of  his  flag-ship,  the  Law- 
rence, lie  in  the  harbor,  from  which 
visitors  are  allowed  to  cut  pieces  as 
relics.  On  the  high  bank,  a  little  dis- 
tance from  the  town,  are  the  ruins  of 
the  old  French  fort,  Presque  Isle. 

The  City  contains  many  fine  public 
buildings  and  private  residences;  a 
court  house  and  city  hall,  20  churches, 
4  banks,  3  savings  banks,  2  large 
hotels,  the  Reed  Houxe  and  Elhworth 
House,  besides  several  other  public 
houses ;  a  ship  yard,  3  grain  elevators 


Erie  car  works,  a  blast  furnace,  5  iron 
works,  gas  works  and  water  works, 
besides  several  extensive  manufactur- 
ing establishments,  and  about  28,000 
inhabitants.  It  is  the  greatest  market 
for  bitiuninous  coal  on  the  Lakes,  the 
coal  being  supplied  from  the  rich  She- 
nango  Valley,  the  receipts  exceeding 
half  a  million  tons  annually.  Lake 
Superior  iron  ore  is  also  shipped  in 
large  (juantities,  via  Erie,  to  the  nu- 
merous furnaces  in  the  Shenango  Val- 
ley, and  east  of  the  Alleghany  Moun- 
tains; anthracite  coal,  and  the  lumber 
trade,  via  the  Pennsylvania  and  Erie 
Railroad,  are  fast  increasing  in  im- 
portance. In  addition  to  the  Lake 
Shore  Railroad,  the  Philadelphia  and 
Erie  Railroad,  and  the  Eric  and  Pitta- 
buryh  Railroad  terminates  at  this  place, 
affording  a  direct  communication  with 
New  York,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore, 
and  other  Eastern  citie.s.  One  of  the 
natural  advantages  which  Erie  pos- 
sesses are  the  veins  of  inflammable  (/as, 
which  are  struck  at  the  depth  of  from 
one  to  five  hundred  feet  from  the  sur- 
face; 30  or  40  gas  wells  are  now  em- 
ployed for  propelling  machinery,  as 
well  as  affording  heat  and  light  for 
private  residences. 

*'  The  City  of  Erie  is  not  surpa-ssed 
in  healthiness  by  any  of  the  Lake 
towns,  and,  except  in  winter,  very  few 
pleasanter  places  for  a  residence  can 
be  found.  The  purity  of  the  atmos- 
phere, kept  in  constant  motion  by  the 
invigorating  Lake  breezes,  is  such  that 
malaria,  with  its  attendant  evils,  is 
unknown.  The  commercial  interests 
of  Erie  are  varied,  and  in  the  aggre- 
gate of  considerable  extent ;  but  are  in 
small  proportion  to  what  the  advan- 
tages of  geographical  position  as  a 
railroad  centre  and  a  good  lake-port 
would  justify.    There  is  no  place  ou 


if  ' 


ifM 


EKIE — ASHTABULA — CLEVELAND. 


105 


tlie  Great  Lakes  better  designed  by  na- 
ture for  a  commercial  mart;  and,  in 
spite  of  opposition  or  letharjjy,  it  mruit 
eventually  become  one  of  the  largest 
manufacturing  cities  in  the  Union." 

Erie  is  the  key  or  outlet  to  the  large 
iron  and  coal  district  of  Western 
Pennsylvania,  through  which  is  distri- 
buted the  Lake  Superior  iron  ore,  sup- 
plying numerous  blast  furnaces  in 
Western  Pennsylvania,  as  well  as  the 
anthracite  furnaces  of  the  Susquehanna 
region,  and  the  Lake  market  for  the 
coal  of  that  valley,  which  is  the  best 
iron  making  bituminous  coal,  as  well  as 
gas  coal,  in  the  United  States.  It  is  here 
the  rich  ores  of  the  Lake  Superior 
and  St.  Lawrence  region  meet  the  best 
iron  smelting  anthracite  and  bitumi- 
nous coals  known  to  exist  in  America. 

Presque  Isle  Bay  is  a  lovely  sheet 
of  water,  protected  by  an  island  pro- 
jecting into  Lake  Erie.  There  is  a 
light-house  on  the  west  side  of  the  en- 
trance to  the  Bay,  in  lat.,  42°  8'  N ;  it 
shows  a  fixed  light,  elevated  128  feet 
above  the  surface  of  the  Lake,  and  visi- 
ble for  a  distance  of  19  miles.  The 
beacon  sho>vs  a  fixed  light,  elevated  38 
feet,  and  is  visible  for  13  miles. 

CoNNEAUT,  Ohio,  117  miles  from 
Buffalo  and  68  from  Cleveland,  situ- 
ated in  the  northeast  corner  of  the 
State,  stands  on  a  creek  of  the  same 
name,  near  its  entrance  into  Lake  Erie. 
It  exports  large  quantities  of  lumber, 
grain,  pork,  beef,  butter,  cheeese,  etc., 
being  surrounded  by  a  rich  agricultural 
section  of  country.  The  village  con- 
tains about  1,500  inhabitants.  The 
harbor  of  Conneaut  lies  2  miles  from 
the  village,  where  is  a  light-house,  a 
pier,  and  several  warehouses. 

Ashtabula,  Ohio,  14  miles  farther 
west,  stands  on  a  stream  of  the  same 
name,  netir  its  entrance  into  the  Lake. 


This  is  a  thriving  place,  inhabited  by 
an  intelligent  pojnilation  estimated 
at  3,000.  The  harbor  of  Ashtabula  is 
2\  miles  from  the  village,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  where  is  a  light-house. 

FAiuroHT  stands  on  the  cast  side 
of  Grand  river,  15')  miles  from  PJuf- 
falo.  It  has  a  good  harbor  for  lake 
vessels,  and  is  a  port  of  considerable 
trade.  Tfiis  harbor  is  so  well  defended 
from  winds,  and  easy  of  access,  that 
vessels  run  in  when  they  cannot  easily 
make  other  ports.  Here  is  a  light- 
house and  a  beacon  to  guide  the 
mariner. 

Painesville,  Ohio,  3  miles  from 
Fairport  and  30  miles  from  Cleveland, 
is  a  beautiful  and  flourishing  town, 
being  surrounded  by  a  fine  section  of 
country.  It  is  the  county-seat  for 
Lake  County,  and  contains  a  court- 
house, 5  churches,  a  bank,  20  stores, 
a  number  of  beautiful  residences,  and 
about  3,700  inhabitants. 

Cleveland,  "The  Forest 
City,"  Cuyahoga  County,  Ohio,  is 
situated  on  a  plain,  elevated  80  fee* 
above  the  waters  of  Lake  P]rie,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Cuyahoga  river,  which 
forms  a  secure  harbor  for  vessels  of  a 
large  class;  being  in  N.  lat.  41°  30', 
W.  long.  8r  42^  The  bluff  on  which 
it  is  built  rises  abruptly  from  the  Lake 
level,  where  stands  a  light-house,  near 
the  entrance  into  the  harbor,  from 
which  an  extensive  and  magnificent 
view  is  obtained,  overlooking  the  City, 
the  meandering  of  the  ('uyahoga,  the 
line  of  railroads,  the  shipping  in  the 
harbor,  and  the  vessels  passing  on  the 
Lake. 

The  City  is  regularly  and  beautifully 
laid  out,  ornamented  with  numerous 
shade  trees,  from  which  it  takes  the 
name  of  "  Forest  City."  Near  its 
centre  is  a  large  public  square,   in 


'lil 


I  { \  I 
In 


106 


XniP  THROUGH  THE  LAKES. 


Perry  Monument,  Erected  Sept.  lo,  i860. 

which  stands  a  beautiful  marble  statue 
of  Commodore  OLivfiR  II.  Perry, 
which  was  inaugurated  September  10, 
1860,  in  the  presence  of  more  than 
100,000  people.  It  commemorates  the 
glorious  achievement  of  the  capture  of 


the  British  fleet  on  Lake  Erie,  Sep- 
tember  10,  1813.  Cleveland  is  the  mart 
of  one  of  the  greatest  grain-grow- 
ing States  in  the  Union,  and  has  a 
ready  communication  by  railroad  with 
New  York,  Baltimore  and  Philadelphia 
on  the  east,  while  continuous  lines  of 
railroads  run  south  and  west ;  Propel- 
lers run  to  Ogdensburg  and  the  Upper 
Lakes.  It  is  distant  185  inik-s  from 
Bulliilo,  135  miles  from  Columbus,  107 
miles  from  Toledo,  and  150  miles  from 
Pittsburgh,  by  railroad  route;  120  miles 
from  Detroit,  by  steamboat  route. 

It  contains  a  comity  court-house  and 
jail ;  city  hall,  U.  S.  custom-house  and 

Eost  ofHce  building;  1  theatre;  a  li- 
rary  association  with  a  public  read- 
ing room  ;  2  medical  colleges,  '2  orphan 
asylums,  OU  churches  of  diflerent  de- 
nominations ;  7  banks,  2  savings  banks, 
and  ()  insurance  companies ;  also,  nu- 
merous large  manufacturing  compa- 
nies, embracing  iron  and  copper  works, 
ship-building,  &c. ;  gas  works,  water 
works,  and  six  city  railroad  compa- 
nies. The  stores  and  warehouses  are 
numerous,  and  many  of  them  well 
built.  It  now  boasts  of  100,000  inhabi- 
tants, and  is  rapidly  increasing  iu 
numbers  aud  wealth.  The  Lake  Su- 
perior trade  is  a  source  of  great  advan- 
tage and  profit,  while  the  other  Lake 
traflic  together  with  the  facilities  af- 
forded by  railroads  and  canals,  makes 
Cleveland  one  of  the  most  favored 
cities  on  the  Inland  Seas  of  America. 
The  principal  hotels  are  the  Kcn- 
nard  House,  Weddell  House  and  Forest 
City  Home. 

Railroads  Divergino  from  Cleveland. 

1.  Lake  Shore,  to  Buffalo,  183  miles. 
Toledo  Division,  113  miles. 

2.  Cleveland,     Columbus,     Cincinnati 
and  Indianapolis,   to  Cincinnati,  258 


SANDUSKY — KELLEY'S  ISLAND  AND  BASS  ISLANDS. 


107 


miles.     In.  'ana  Division,  to  Indian-  ' 
apolii),  282  miles. 

3.  Cleveland  and  Pittsburgh,  connect- 
ing with  Wheeling,  \V.  Vii.,  150  miles. 

4.  CUveluud,  Mount   Vernou  and  Co- 
lumbus, running  to  Columbus,  via  llud- 


Bon,  llo  miles. 


y.  Cleveland  and  Mahoning  Railroad. 

6.  Atlantic  and  Great  Wtatern,  con- 
necting with  Erie  Kailway. 

Steamers  and  Propellers  of  a 
largo  class  leave  Cleveland  daily, 
during  the  season  of  navigation,  for 
Builiilo,  Toledo,  Detroit,  Mackinac, 
CJrcen  Bay,  Milwaukee,  Chicago,  the 
8aut  Ste.  Marie,  Manjuette  and  Du- 
lutli,  stopping  at  ports  on  the  Upper 
Lakes;  altogether,  transporting  an  im- 
mense amount  of  merchandise,  grain, 
lunil)er,  coal,  iron  and  copper  ore. 

1>:,A(.'K  Kiveu,  28  miles  from  Cleve- 
land, is  a  small  village  with  a  good 
harbor,  where  is  a  ship-yard  and  other 
manufacturing  establishments. 

Vkhmilion,  10  miles  farther,  on  the 
line  of  the  Cleveland  and  Toledo  Rail- 
road, is  a  place  of  considerable  trade, 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of 
the  same  name. 

Huron,  Ohio,  50  miles  from  Cleve- 
land and  10  miles  from  Sandusky,  is 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  Huron  river, 


which  affords  a  good  harbor.  It  con- 
tains several  churches,  15  or  20  stores, 
several  warehouses,  and  about  1,500 
inhabitants. 

ftiaiidiiHky,  "The  Bay  City," 
capital  of  l'>ie  Co.,  Ohio,  is  a  port  of 
entry  and  a  place  of  considerable  trade. 
It  is  advantageously  situated  on  San- 
duskv  Bav,  three  miles  from  Lake 
Erie,'  in  N.  hit.  41°  27^  \V.  long.  82° 
45''.  The  Bay  is  about  twenty  miles 
long,  and  five  or  six  miles  in  width, 
forming  a  capacious  and  excellent  har- 
bor, into  which  steamers  and  vessels 
of  all  sizes  can  enter  with  safety.  The 
average  depth  of  water  is  from  ten  to 
twelve  feet.  The  City  is  built  on  a  bod 
of  limestone,  pro<lucing  a  good  build- 
ing material.  It  contains  about  15,000 
inhabitants,  a  court-house  and  jail,  8 
churches,  2  banks,  several  well-kept 
hotels,  and  a  number  of  large  stores 
and  manufacturing  establishments  of 
diflbront  kinds.  This  is  the  terminus 
of  the  Sandusky,  Daylon  and  Cincin- 
nati liailroad,  153  miles  to  Dayton ; 
tlie  Sandusky,  Mansfield  and  Neucark 
Railroad,  116  miles  in  length — now 
known  as  the  Lake  Erie  Division  of 
the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad — 
forms,  in  part,  a  direct  line  of  travel 
to  Baltimore  and  Washington,  D.  C. 


m 


II 


li 


KELLEY'S  ISLAND  AND  BASS  ISLANDS.— LAKE  ERIE. 


These  important  Islands,  forming  a 
group  in  connection  with  some  smaller 
islands,  lie  on  the  southwest  end  of 
Lake  Erie,  in  N.  lat.  41°  30'.  There 
are  other  islands  attached  to  Canada, 
situated  immediately  to  the  North,  the 
most  important  of  which  is  Point  Pe- 
lee  Island.  These  islands  in  a  measure 
partake  of  the  same  favorable  climatic 
influence  that  pervades  the  American 


islands,  they  being  celebrated  for  the 
luxurious  growth  of  grapes  and  other 
kinds  of  fruit,  as  well  as  for  health- 
restoring  influences. 

The  largest  of  the  American  Islands 
are  Kelley's  Island,  South  Bass  or  Put- 
in-Bay Island,  Middle  Bass  Island,  and 
North  Bass  Island.  The  smaller  islands 
or  islets  are  Ballast  Island,  Gibraltar 
Island,  Sugar  Island,  Rattlesnake  Island, 


108 


TRIP  THROUGH  THE  liAKKS. 


.».]   I 


Green  Inland  and  Light,  ami  West  Sister 
Jdand  and  Light, — the  two  hitter  be- 
longing to  the  United  States  govcrn- 
ment. 

The  Canada  islandn  are  Point  PeUe 
Inland,  Middle  Inland,  Kaat  Si»ter,  Mid' 
die  Sister,  and  the  Old  Hen  and  Chiekens. 
All  the  above  iHlaiulH  are  celebrated 
as  pos8eHHing  tine  finhing  grounds;  the 
Kass  Islands  taking  their  names  from 
the  groat  quasitities  of  bass  taken 
during  the  tSpring  and  Fall  months. 
Other  fish.,  of  a  fine  flavor,  are  also 
taken  in  the  waters  contiguous  to  the 
above  islands. 

Kelley's  Island,  the  largest  of  the 
American  group,  contains  about  2,800 
acres  of  land,  being  mostly  under  a 
high  state  of  cultivation,  about  one- 
third  of  which  is  devoted  to  the  cul- 
ture of  grapes.  Here  is  a  population 
of  about  1,000.  On  the  island  there 
are  2  hotels  and  several  private 
boarding-houses,  afibrdinoj  good  ac- 
commodations. The  Island  House, 
Bituated  near  the  steamboat  landing, 
is  the  principal  hotel;  it  has  long 
been  a  favorite  resort  for  those  seeking 
health  and  pleasure.  On  this  island 
is  located  Kelley's  Island  Wine  Com- 
pany, occupying  a  large  building  over 
a  cellar  cut  out  of  solid  limestone,  with 
a  capacity  of  holding  100,000  gallons 
of  wine.  It  is  an  object  of  great  in- 
terest to  visitors.  Here  are  immense 
limestone  quarries,  from  wliich  are 
annually  shipped  an  enormous  amount 
of  stone  for  building,  paving,  and  smelt- 
ing purposes. 

{South  Bass  Island,  the  next  in 
size,  contains  about  1,500  acres  of 
superior  land,  being  underlaid  by 
limestone;  there  are  some  500  acres 
where  grapes  are  raised,  mostly  of 
the  Catawba  and  Delaware  species. 
Apples,  plums,  cherries,  peaches,  pears 


and  other  fruit  here  flourislies  and 
are  raised  in  considerable  quanti- 
ties. 

Put-in-Ray,  favorably  situated  on 
the  northwest  shore  of  this  island,  is 
a  good  harbor  and  safe  refuge  for  ves- 
sels in  all  seasons  during  navigation. 
Here  steamers  arrive  and  depart  daily, 
nmning  to  Detroit,  Sandusky,  Toledo, 
Cleveland,  and  other  ports  on  Lake 
Erie.  The  great  attraction,  however, 
of  this  favored  island  is  its  delightful 
climate,  beautiful  harbor,  and  the  am- 
ple accommodations  aflbrded  for  those 
seeking  health  or  pleasure.  Here  can 
be  enjoyed  bathing,  boating  and  lish- 
ing,  besides  indoor  amusements.  The 
Put-in-Bay  House  and  the  Beebee  House 
are  two  well-kept  hotels,  being  usually 
thronged  with  visitors  during  the  Sum- 
mer months.  No  place  on  the  Great 
Lakes  exceeds  this  favored  place  as  a 
fashionable  resort. 

Sailing  or  rowing  in  the  Bay  and 
around  the  Islands  aflbrd  delightful 
amusement  and  healthy  exercise,  while 
a  moonlight  excursion  over  the  waters 
of  the  Lake  are  a  feature  of  enjoy- 
ment offered,  which,  once  participated 
in,  are  never  forgotten. 

Put-in-Bay,  now  containing  about 
600  inhabitants,  received  its  name 
and  was  made  celebrated  by  being 
the  rendezvous  of  Commodore  Perry's 
flotilla  before  and  after  the  decisive 
naval  battle  of  Lake  Erie,  September 
10,  1813,  which  resulted  in  the  cap- 
ture of  the  entire  British  fleet.  Here 
were  interred,  under  a  willow  tree,  the 
officers  of  the  American  fleet,  killed 
in  the  above  battle,  their  remains  oc- 
cupy a  small  space,  inclosed  by  posts 
and  chains  lying  near  the  steamboat 
landing. 

The  Perry  Cave,  situated  near  the 
centre  of  the  island,  is  annually  visited 


PERRY'S  CAVE— PUT-IN-BAY. 


109 


by  thousands  of  admirers.  It  lias  re- 
cently been  put  in  order  by  enlarging 
the  entrance,  Rravelllnj^f  the  bottom, 
and  lighting  the  cave  with  numerous 
coal  oil  lamps,  making  it  as  bright  as 
daylight.  The  scenery  in  the  cave  is 
most  interesting  and  beautiful.  A  mi- 
niature lake  with  tiny  boats  floating  on 
its  bosom  heightens  its  beauty.  The 
depth  of  the  cave,  over  the  mouth  of 
which  a  building  is  erected,  is  about 
50  feet;  length,  15  rods;  roof  elevated 
from  5  to  10  feet,  spreading  out  into  a 
largo  chamber  with  a  small  Ixxly  of 
water  at  its  base.  When  lighted  it 
presents  a  grand  appearance.  The 
thermometer  in  the  chamber  stands  at 
48°  Fahrenheit,  with  iittle  or  no  varia- 
tion throughout  the  year. 


Naval  Battle  on  Lakb  Erie. 

September  10th,  1813,  the  hostile 
fleets  of  England  and  the  United 
States,  on  Lake  Erie,  met  near  the 
head  of  the  Lake,  and  a  sanguinary 
battle  ensued.  The  fleet,  bearing  the 
"red  cross"  of  England,  consisted  of 
six  vessels,  carrying  64  guns,  under 
command  of  the  veteran  Commodore 
Karclav;  and  the  fleet,  bearing  the 
"broad  stripes  and  bright  stars"  of  the 
United  States,  consisted  of  9  vessels, 
carrying  54  guns,  under  command  of 
the  young  and  inexperienced,  but  brave. 
Commodore  Oliver  H.  Perry.  The 
result  of  this  important  conflict  was 
made  known  to  the  world  in  the  fol- 
lowing laconic  dispatch,  written  at  4 
P.  M.  of  that  day  :— 

"  Dear  General  :  We  have  met  the 
enemy,  and  they  are  ours :  Two  ships,  two 
brigs,  one  schooner,  and  one  sloop. 

With  esteem,  etc.         O.  H.  Perry. 

"Gen.  William  H.  Harrison." 


Gibraltar  Lsland,  lying  in  Put- 
in- Hay,  is  a  small  island  mostly  covered 
with  forest  trees,  rising  beautifully 
frotn  the  water's  edge.  It  is  owned 
and  occupied  by  Jay  Cooke,  Esq.,  as 
a  country  residence. 

MiudLe  Bass  Island  is  another 
lovely  i)iece  of  groimd,  containing 
about  800  acres  of  land,  which  is 
mostly  devoted  to  the  cidture  of 
grapes  and  fruit  of  dillerent  kinds. 
Here  is  a  steamboat  landing  and  a 
number  of  flne  residences. 

North  IJass  Island,  containing 
about  700  acres,  is  also  equally  favor- 
ably situated  and  productive;  produc- 
ing grapes  and  almost  every  variety 
of  iVuit  in  abundance. 

These  islands,  the  favorite  abode  of 
an  intelligent  and  thriving  population, 
are  also  rich  in  geological  interest, 
aflbrding  to  the  naturalist  a  broad  fleld 
for  investigation.  Put-in-liay  Island, 
itself,  is  noted  for  its  many  and  curious 
subterranean  caverns,  some  of  which 
are  very  large,  with  smooth  floors,  high 
walls,  and  clear,  cool  miniature  lakes — 
apparently  designed  by  nature  to  re- 
frt  sh  and  please  the  weary  visitor. 

On  the  Peninsula  lying  north-west 
o*'  Sandusky  Bay,  and  on  the  main- 
land, further  inland,  in  Ohio,  grapes 
are  now  being  successfully  cultivated, 
and  native  wine  of  a  fine  flavor  is  pro- 
duced— equalling  in  reputation  the 
wines  of  southern  Ohio  or  California. 
The  grapes  raised  for  wine  purposes, 
which  arrive  to  perfection  in  Sep- 
tember, sell  for  about  five  dollars  a 
hundred  pounds,  and  those  packed  in 
boxes  for  the  Eastern  market  for  about 
twice  the  above  price. 

The  Bass  Islands  and  Kelley's 
Island  are  easily  reached  by  steamer 
running  from  Detroit  to  Sandusky, 
Ohio;  distance  80  miles;  stopping  at 


!l 


:i 
■1 

ii 

B^aSSSBI 


IM 


\ 


V  T 


llliit 


110 


TRIP  THROUGH  THE  LAKES. 


the  above  islands.  A  steamer  also 
runs  from  Sandusky  to  Kelley's  Island 
and  the  Bass  Islands,  twice  daily,  af- 
fording a  most  delightfal  excursion. 


Put-in-Bay.  —  Our  Nearest 
Watehino  Place. — Copied  froin  a 
Detroit  paper. 

"This  place  of  summer  resort  offers 
unusual  attractions  to  the  pleaaure- 
eeeker,  the  tourist  or  tlic  excursionist. 
The  natural  beauties  of  its  location, 
and  the  historic  interest  that  attaches 
to  it,  have  been  so  often  described  as  to 
render  any  repetition  thereof  needless, 
if  not  tiresome.  The  pleasures  of 
either  a  visit  to  or  a  sojourn  at  the 
Hay,  have,  however,  been  greatly  en- 
hanced by  the  decided  improvements 
just  made  in  both  the  extent  of  the 
accommodation  it  can  aflbrd,  and  the 
general  convenience  of  the  appoint- 
ments pertaining  thereto. 

"  The  Put-in-Bay  Island  is  easily  ac- 
cessible from  Detroit,  via  the  steamer 
Jay  Cooke — a  handsome,  fast,  well-of- 
ficered, and  in  every  respect  first-class 
boat.  Her  time-table  is  so  arranged 
as  to  place  a  trip  to  the  Bay  within  the 
reach  of  aimL,.iC  any  one.  An  absence 
of  a  day  thus  gives  any  one  a  magnifi- 
cent ride  down  our  river,  over  the 
Lake,  and  among  the  islands;  leaves 
liim  with  the  afternoon  and  evening 
in  which  to  enjoy  the  pleasures  of  wa- 
tering-place life,  and  lands  him  in  our 
city,  after  a  night's  rest,  early  on  the 
following  day. 

"The  Put-in-Bay  House  has  been 
greatly  enlarged  since  last  summer, 
and  is  now  under  the  proprietorship 
of  Messrs.  West  &  Sweeny.  A  long 
wing  has  been  added,  the  dining  room 
has  been  nnich  enlarged,  and  all  the 
various  features  of  the  establishment 


have  been  amplified  and  improved. 
*'Stacei/s"  remains  still  in  full  blast, 
with  its  various  means  of  amusement 
and  refreshment,  and  the  stables  con- 
nected with  this  house  can  now  boast 
of  fine  turn-outs  and  good  animals. 
Among  the  employes  of  the  hotel  the 
material  for  an  excellent  band  for 
dancing  music  has  been  found,  and 
hoi)s  are  the  regular  order  of  the  night. 
The  Perry  House  has  been  transformed 
into  the  "  Beebe  House,"  and  has  also 
been  greatly  enlarged  and  improved. 
Its  location  on  the  bank  of  the  Bay  is 
delightful,  and  it  is  kept  on  home-like 
principles.  In  addition  to  a  decided 
increase  in  its  accommodating  capacity, 
a  new  building  with  bowling  alleys, 
billicrsi  room,  bar,  dancing  hall,  and 
dressing  rooms,  etc.,  has  also  been 
erected  adjoining  it,  and  it  is  thus 
more  on  a  par  with  its  larger  rival  in 
its  resources  of  amusement." 


T«lc«lo,  the  capital  of  Lucas  Co., 
<"»hio,  one  of  the  most  favored  cities  of 
the  Lakes,  is  situated  on  the  Maumee 
River,  4  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  10 
miles  from  Turtle  Island  Light,  at  the 
outlet  of  the  Maumee  Bay  into  Lake 
JM'ie.  The  harbor  is  good,  and  the 
navigable  channel  from  Toledo  of  suf- 
ficient depth  for  all  steamers  or  sail 
vessels  navigating  the  lakes.  Toledo 
is  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  V/ahash 
and  Erie  Canal,  running  through  Mau- 
mee and  Wabash  valleys,  and  com- 
municating with  the  Ohio  river  at 
Evansville,  Ind.,  a  distance  of  474 
miles.  The  Miami  and  Erie  Canal 
branches  from  the  above  canal  68 
miles  west  of  Toledo,  and  runs  south- 
erly, C9mraunicating  with  the  Ohio 
river  at  Cincinnati, 

The  City  contains  a  court  house  and 


I'  '■ ' 


TOLEDO^KJBOWTH  OF  LAKE  CITIES. 


Ill 


jail ;  a  United  States  cnstom-hoiiae 
and  post  office  building;  30  churches, 
many  of  thera  costly  edifices ;  an  ex- 
tensive higli-school  edifice,  and  7  large 
brick  ward  school-houses ;  a  board  of 
trade  building;  6  banks,  4  savings 
banks;  several  fire,  marine  and  life 
insurance  companies;  6  hotels,  8  grain 
elevators,  and  a  great  number  of  whole- 
sale stores  and  warehouses.  The  manu- 
facturing interest  is  immense,  embrac- 
ing mills  and  machine  shops  of  almost 
every  variety.  The  shipping  interest 
is  rapidly  increasing,  here  being  trans- 
shijjped,  annually,  c  large  amount  of 
grain — exceeded  only  by  Chicago — and 
and  other  kinds  of  agricultural  pro- 
ducts of  the  tfreat  West  brought  here 
by  canal  and  railroad.  This  City  is 
destined,  like  Chicilgo,  to  export  di- 
rect to  European  ports. 

Toledo  is  the  nearest  point  for  the 
immense  country  traversed  by  the 
above  canals  and  railroads  terminat- 
ing at  this  point,  where  a  transfer  can 
be  made  of  freight  to  the  more  cheaj) 
transportation  by  the  Lakes,  and 
thence  through  the  Erie  Canal,  Wel- 
land  Canal,  or  Oswego  Canal  to  the 
Seaboard. 

Toledo  no  /f  ranks  as  the  third  city 
in  the  State,  and  the  third  on  the  shores 
of  Lake  Erie,  being  only  exceeded  by 
Cleveland  and  Buflalo,  and  is  rapidly 
increasing  in  wealth  and  numbers. 
The  population  in  1850,  was  3,829;  in 
1860, 13,768;  in  1805, 19,500 ;  in  1870, 
31,584.  At  this  time  there  are  in  pro- 
cess of  erection,  in  Toledo,  many 
handsome  dv/ellings  and  numerous 
handsome  stores,  which  when  com- 
pleted can  be  classed  among  the  most 
elegant  structures.  The  principal  ho- 
tels are  the  new  Boody  House,  Island 
House,  Oliver  House  and  St.  Charles 
Hotel 


Railroads  and  BnAxcnEs  Divebo- 
iNO  FROM  Toledo. 

MILES. 

Lake  Shore  &  Michigan  Sod'n.. 
Michigan  Sou'n  Div.  toChicago.244 
Toledo  Division  to  Cleveland.  ...113 

Air  Line  to  Elkhart,  Ind 127 

Detroit  and  Toledo  Division 65 

Dayton  and  Michigan 202 

ToLKDo,  Wabash  &  Western  to 

Quincy,  111 476 

Hannibal  Branch 48 

Keokuk  Branch 42 

St.  Louis  Division 104 


Railroad  Route  Around  Lake 
Erie. 

This  important  body  of  water  being 
encompassed  by  a  band  of  iron,  we  sub- 
join the  following  Table  of  Didances: 

Buffalo  to  Paris,  Can.,  via  Buffalo 
and  Luke  Huron  Railroad,  84  miles; 
Paris  to  Windsor  or  Detroit,  via  Greai 
Western  Railway,  158  miles;  Detroit 
to  Toledo,  Ohio,  via  Detroit  and  2hledo 
Railroad,  65  miles;  Toledo  to  Cleve- 
land, via  Cleveland  and  Toledo  Rail- 
road, 113  miles;  Cleveland  to  Erie, 
Pa.,  via  Lake  Shore  Railroad,  95  miles ; 
Erie  to  Buflalo,  N.  Y.,  via  Luke  Shore 
Railroad,  88  miles.    Total  miles,  603. 


Comparative  Growth  of  Lake  Cities. 

CiTiis.                             1860  1870    iNCBliai. 

BuFVALO,  N.  Y 81.129  117,714  3«,r>85 

Chicago,    IU 109,M0  29H.977  189.71T 

Clkvkland,    Ohio 43,417  92,Hi!9  49,412 

Detroit,  Mich 45,619  79,577  33,958 

DuLUTH.  Mlun 3,131 

Erik,  I'eiin 9.419  19,«46  10,?.27 

Grken  Hav,  Wis 2.27.'>  4.t)fi6  V.;m 

Marqukttk,  Mioh 1,(U7  4,000  2,853 

Milwaukee,  Wis 45,246  71,440  26,194 

Michigan  City,  iDd 3,320  3,9h5  66A 

Monroe,  Micli 3,892  5,om  1,194 

Oswego,  N.  Y 16,816  20.910  4,094 

Port  Huron,  Micti 4,371  5.973  1,«20 

Kacine,  Wig 7,822  9,khO  i.OM 

Kanduskt,  Oillo 8,408  13,000  4,.592 

Toledo,  Ohio 13,768  31,584  17,816 


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TRIP  THROUGH  THE  LAKES. 


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Climatology   of  Ohio— By 

LouiN  limiKiKT.  "The  climate  of  Ohio 
is,  on  the  whole,  remarkably  favorable 
both  in  a  sanitary  point  of  view,  and  in 
its  capacity  for  the  most  abundant  agri- 
cultural production.  It  has  less  inju- 
rious extremes  of  heat  or  cold  than 
any  other  State  in  or  near  the  same 
latitiide,  and  it  sutlers  less  from  ex- 
tremes of  excessive  rains,  or  want  of 
rain.  The  northern  border  of  the 
State  is  greatly  favored  by  the  presence 
of  the  waters  of  Lake  Erie,  which 
modify  the  heat  oi  summer,  and  the 
cold  of  winter,  very  sensibly.  No 
finer  climate  can  be  found  in  the 
United  States  for  delicate  vegetable 
growths  than  that  of  the  portions  of 
Ohio  bordering  on  the  west  end  of 
Lake  Erie;  and  this  is  abundantly 
attested  by  the  recent  extensive  de- 
velopment there  of  the  grape  culture. 
The  finest  fruit,  and  the  best  wines, 
are  now  obtained  there  in  great  abun- 
dance; and  this  partially  is  due  to 
the  softening  intiuence  of  the  Lake  on 
both  the  winter  and  summer  climate. 
The  average  for  the  central  part  of 
the  State  is  7*2°  Fahr.  for  the  summer. 
The  range  of  the  mean  annual  tempera- 
ture of  Ohio  extends  from  50°  to  54° 
Fahr.  from  north  to  south ;  while  the 
fall  of  moisture  or  rain  averages  from 
32  inches  on  the  north,  in  the  vicinity 
of  Lake  Erie,  to  48  inches  on  the 
south,  on  the  borders  of  the  Ohio 
lliver,  the  fall  of  rain  in  the  centre 
of  the  State  being  42  inches.  These 
results  give  a  re  iiarkable  favorable  cli- 
matic inlluencfc  *o  this  portion  of  the 
United  States." 


The  City  of  Monroe,  capital  of 
Monroe  Co.,  Mich.,  is  situated  on  both 
Bides  of  the  River  Raisin,  three  miles 


above  its  entrance  into  Lake  Erie,  25 
miles  from  Toledo,  and  40  miles  from 
Detroit.  It  is  connected  with  the  Lake 
by  a  ship  canal,  and  is  a  terminus  of 
the  Michigan  Southern  Railroad,  which 
extends  west,  in  connection  with  the 
Northern  Indiana  Railroad,  to  Chi- 
cago, III.  The  town  contains  about 
5,000  inhabitants,  a  court  house  and 
jail,  a  United  States  land  office,  8 
churches,  several  public  houses,  and 
a  number  of  large  stores  of  difler- 
ent  kinds.  Here  are  two  extensive 
piers,  forming  an  outport  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river;  the  railroad  track  run- 
ning to  the  lauding.  A  plank-road 
also  runs  from  the  outport  to  the  City, 
which  is  an  old  and  interesting  locality, 
being  formerly  called  Frenchtown, 
which  was  known  as  the  scene  of  the 
battle  and  massacre  of  River  Raisin  in 
the  war  of  1812.  The  Detroit,  Monroe, 
and  Toledo  Railroad  passes  through 
this  city.  Steamers  run  from  Detroit 
to  Toledo,  stopping  at  Monroe. 

Trenton,  situated  on  the  west  bank 
of  Detroit  river,  is  a  steamlioat  land- 
ing and  a  place  of  considerable  trade. 
Popnlation,  1,000. 

SVyandotte,  ten  miles  below  De- 
troit, is  a  new  and  flourishing  manu- 
facturing village,  where  are  located  the 
most  extensive  iron  works  in  Michi- 
gan. The  iron  used  at  this  establish- 
ment comes  mostly  from  Lake  Sui)e- 
rior,  and  is  considered  ecpial  in  quan- 
tity to  any  in  the  world.  The  village 
contains  about  2,000  inhabitants. 

Fort  Wayne.— The  United 
States  (ioveniment  has  recently  made 
extensive  im])rovement8at  Fort  Wayne, 
below  Detroit,  which  will  render  it 
one  of  the  strongest  fortifications  in 
the  country,  and  almost  impregnable 
against  a  land  assault.  The  situ  of  the 
fort,  as  is  well  known,  is  in  Spring- 


DETROIT  RIVER — AMHERSTBURGH — WINDSOR. 


113 


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yrella,  about  three  miles  below  the  city 
of  Detroit.  Its  location  is  admirable, 
being  on  a  slight  eminence,  com- 
pletely commanding  the  river,  which 
at  that  point  is  narrower  than  in  any 
other  place  of  its  entire  length.  Guns 
proi)erly  placed  there  could  eflectually 
blockade  the  river  against  ordinary 
vessels,  and,  with  the  aid  of  a  few  gun- 
boats, could  repulse  any  hostile  tieet 
which  might  present  itself. 


The  Steamers  from  Cleveland  bound 
for  Detroit  river,  usually  pass  to  the 
north  side  of  Point  Pelee  Island,  and 
run  across  Pic/eon  Bay  towards  Bar 
Point,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  Detroit 
river.  Several  small  islands  are  passed 
on  the  south,  called  East  Sister,  Middle 
Sistei;  and  West  Sister;  also,  in  the 
distance,  may  be  seen  the  Bass  Islands, 
known  as  the  "  North  Bass,"  "  Middle 
Bass,"  and  "  South  Bass." 

Point  Pelke  Island,  belonging  to 
Canada,  is  about  seven  miles  long,  and 
two  or  three  miles  in  width.  It  is  in- 
habited by  a  few  settlers.  The  island 
is  said  to  abound  with  red  cedar,  and 
possesses  a  fine  limestone  quarry.  A 
lighthouse  is  situated  on  the  east  side. 

Detroit  River,  forming  one  of  the 
links  between  the  Upper  and  Lower 
Lakes,  is  next  approached,  near  the 
jnouth  of  which  may  be  seen  a  light 
on  the  Michigan  shore  called  Gibraltar 
Light,  and  another  light  on  an  island 
attached  to  Canada,  the  steamers  usu- 
ally entering  the  river,  through  the 
east  or  British  Channel  of  the  river, 
altliough  vessels  often  pass  through  the 
west  or  American  Channel. 

Amiiehstburoh,  Can.,  eighteen 
miles  below  Detroit,  is  an  old  and  im- 
portant town.  The  situation  is  good  : 
the  banks  of  the  river,  both  above  ana 


8 


below  the  village, — but  particularly  the 
latter,  where  the  river  emerges  into 
Lake  Erie, — are  very  beautiftil.  The 
Chicago  and  Canada  Southern  Railroad 

Sass  through  this  place,  running  from 
luflalo  to  Chicago. 

Fort  Malden,  capable  of  accom- 
modating a  regiment  of  troops,  i'- 
situated  about  half  a  mile  above  Am- 
herstburgh,  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
river,  the  channel  of  which  it  here 
commands. 

At  Bkoavnstown,  situated  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river,  in  Michigan, 
is  the  battle  ground  where  the  Ameri- 
cans, under  disadvantageous  circum- 
stances, and  with  a  slight  loss,  routed 
the  British  forces,  which  lay  in  am- 
bush, as  the  former  were  on  their  way 
to  relieve  the  fort  at  F.renchtown ; 
which  event  occurred,.  August  5,  1812. 

Sandwich,  Can.,  is  beautifully 
situated  on  the  river,  two  miles  below 
Detroit,  and  nine  miles  below  Lake 
St.  Clair.  It  stands  on  a  gently  sloping 
bank  a  short  distance  from  the  river, 
which  is  here  about  a  mile  wide.  This 
is  one  of  the  oldest  settlements  in 
Canada  West.  The  town  contains 
3,133  inhabitants.  Here  is  a  Sulphur 
Spring  of  great  celebrity,  the  water 
rising  16  feet  above  the  surface,  pre- 
senting a  fine  appearance.  Here  is 
erected  an  hotel  and  bathing-houses. 

Windsor,  Can.,  situated  in  the 
township  of  Sandwich,  is  a  village 
directly  opposite  Detroit,  witli  which 
it  is  connected  by  three  steam  ferries. 
It  was  laid  out  in  1834,  and  is  now  a 
place  of  considerable  business,  having 
a  population  of  about  4,000  inhabi- 
tants. Here  terminates  the  Great 
Western  Railway  of  Canada,  which  ex- 
tends from  Niagara  Falls  or  Suspen- 
sion Bridge,  via  Hanulton  and  London, 
to  opposite  Detroit. 


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TRIP  THROUGH  THE  LAKES. 


Detroit,  "The  City  of  the 
Stkaits,"  a  port  of  entry,  and  the 
great  commercial  mart  of  the  State,  is 
favorably  situated  in  N.  hit.  42°  20^ 
W.  long.  82°  5S%  on  a  river  or  strait  of 
the  same  name,  elevated  some  30  or  40 
feet  above  its  surface,  being  seven  miles 
below  the  outlet  of  Lake  St.  Clair 
and  twenty  above  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  where  it  enters  into  Lake  Erie. 
It  extends  for  the  distance  of  upward 
of  a  mile  upon  the  southwest  bank  of 
the  river,  where  the  stream  is  three- 
fourths  of  a  mile  in  width.  The  prin- 
cipal public  and  private  offices  and 
wholesale  stores  are  located  on  Jefier- 
son  and  Woodward  avenues,  which 
cross  each  other  at  right  angles,  the 
latter  running  to  the  water's  edge. 
There  may  usually  be  seen  a  great 
number  of  steamboats,  propellers,  and 
sail  vessels  of  a  large  class,  loading  or 
imloading  their  rich  cargoes,  destined 
for  Eastern  markets  or  for  the  Oreat 
West,  giving  an  animated  appearance 
to  this  place,  which  is  aptly  called  the 
City  of  the  Straits.  It  was  incorporated 
in  1815,  being  now  divided  into  ten 
wards,  and  governed  by  a  mayor, 
recorder,  and  board  of  aldermen.  The 
new  City  Hall,  on  Campus  Martius,  is 
a  magnificent  edifice,  from  the  dome 
of  wbich  a  fine  view  is  obtained  of 
the  City  and  vicinity.  The  other  pub- 
lic buildings  are  a  United  States  cus- 
tom-house and  post  office,  and  United 
States  lake  survey  office ;  an  opera 
house  and  theatre,  masonic  hall,  fire- 


men's hall,  mechanic's 
hall,  odd-fellows'  hall, 
the  young  men's  society 
building,  2  market  buil- 
dings, 52  churches  of 
different  denominations, 
6  hotels,  besides  a  num- 
ber of  taverns ;  6  banks, 
4  savings  banks,  2  orphan  asylums, 
gas  works,  water  works,  5  grain  eleva- 
tors, iron  foundries,  copper  smelting 
works,  5  steam  grist-mills,  and  several 
saw-mills,  besides  a  great  number  of 
other  manufacturing  establishments. 
There  are  also  several  extensive  ship- 
yards and  machine-shops,  where  are 
built  and  repaired  vessels  of  almost 
every  description.  The  population 
in  1860  was  45,619.  In  1870,  79 
530.    In  1874,  estimated  100,000. 

The  principal  hotels  are  the  Biddle 
House,  and  Michigan  Exchange,  on  .Jef- 
ferson avenue,  and  the  Rmsell  House, 
on  Woodward  avenue,  facing  Campus 
Martius,  an  open  square  near  the  centre 
of  the  City. 

Detroit  may  be  regarded  as  one  of 
the  most  favored  of  all  the  W'estern 
cities  of  the  Union.  It  was  first  set- 
tled by  the  French  explorers  as  early 
as  1701,  as  a  military  and  fur  trading 
post.  It  changed  its  garrison  and 
military  government  in  1760  for  a  Brit- 
ish military  commander  and  troops; 
enduring,  under  the  latter  regime,  a 
series  of  Indian  sieges,  assaults,  and 
petty  but  vigilant  and  harassing  war- 
fare, conducted  against  the  English 
garrison  by  the  celebrated  Indian  war- 
rior Pontiac.  Detroit  subsequently 
passed  into  possession  of  the  American 
revolutionists ;  but  on  the  16th  of  Au- 
gust, 1812,  it  was  surrendered  by  Gen. 
Hull,  of  the  United  Slates  army,  to 
Gen.  Brock,  commander  of  the  British 
forces.    In    1813   it  was    again    sur- 


119  >: 


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DETROIT. 


115 


rendered    to   ihe    Americans,    under 
Gen.  Harrison. 

The  following  Railroad  lines  diverge 
from  Detroit : — 

1.  The  Detroit,  Monroe  and  Toledo 
Railroad,  65  miles  in  length,  connec- 
ting with  the  Michigan  Southern  Kail- 
road  at  Monroe,  and  with  other  roads 
at  Toledo. 

2.  The  Michigan  Central  Railroad, 
284  miles  in  length,  extends  to  Chi- 
cago, 111.  This  important  road,  run- 
ning across  the  State  from  east  to  west, 
connects  at  Michigan  City,  Ind.,  with 
the  New  Albany  and  Salem  Railroad 

3.  The  Detroit  and  Bay  City  R.  R., 
110  miles  in  length. 

4.  The  Detroit,  Eel  River  and  Illinois 
Railroad. 

5.  The  Detroit,  Lansing  and  Michi- 
gan Railroad. 

6.  The  Detroit  and  Milwaukee  Rail- 
road runs  to  Grand  Haven,  on  Lake 
Michigan,  opposite  Milwaukee,  Wis., 
connecting  with  a  Line  of  Steamers. 

7.  The  Grand  Ti-nnk  Railway  runs 
from  Detroit  to  Port  Huron,  Mich.,  62 
miles,  extending  from  Sarnia,  Canada, 
to  Montreal,  Quebec,  and  Portland,jMe. 

8.  The  Great  Western  Railway  of 
Canada,  230  miles  in  length,  has  its 
terminus  at  Windsor,  opposite  Detroit, 
the  two  places  being  connected  by  three 
steam  ferries — thus  affording  a  speedy 
line  of  travel  through  Canada,  and 
thence  to  Eastern  cities  of  the  U.  States. 

There  are  also  three  City  Railroads. 

Steamers  of  a  large  clas.s  run  from 
Detroit  to  Buffalo,  Cleveland,  Toledo, 
and  other  ports  on  Lake  Erie ;  others 
run  to  Port  Huron,  Saginaw,  Goderich, 
Ont.,  and  other  ports  on  Lake  Huron. 

The  Lake  Superior  Line  of  Steamers 
running  from  Buffalo,  Cleveland  and 
Detroit  direct  for  the  Sault  Ste.  Marie, 
and  all  the  principal  ports  on  Lake 


Superior,  are  of  a  large  class,  carrying 
passengers  and  freight.  This  has  be- 
come one  of  the  most  fashionable  and 
healthy  excursions  on  the  continent. 


The  Detroit  River,  or  Strait,  is  a 
noble  stream,  through  which  flows  the 
surplus  waters  of  the  Upper  Lakes  into 
Lake  Erie.  It  is  twenty-seven  miles 
in  length,  and  from  half  a  mile  to  two 
miles  in  width,  forming  the  boundary 
between  the  United  States  and  Canada, 
commencing  at  the  foot  of  Lake  St. 
Clair  and  emptying  into  Lake  Erie. 
It  has  a  perceptible  current,  and  is 
navigable  for  vessels  of  the  largest 
class.  Large  quantities  of  fish  are 
annually  taken  in  the  river,  and  the 
sportsman  usually  finds  an  abundance 
of  wild  ducks,  which  breed  in  great 
numbers  in  the  marshes  bordering 
some  of  the  islands  and  harbors  of  the 
coast. 

There  are  altogether  17  islands  in 
the  river.  The  names  of  these  are : — 
Cloy,  Celeron,  Hickory,  Sugar,  Bois 
Blanc,  Ella,  Fox,  Rock,  Grosse  Me, 
Stoney,  Fighting,  Turkey,  Mammy,  Judy, 
Grassy,  Mud,  Belle  or  Hog,  and  lie  la 
Peche.  The  two  latter  are  situated 
a  few  miles  above  Detroit,  near  the 
entrance  to  Lake  St.  Clair,  where  large 
(juantities  of  white  fish  are  annually 
taken. 

Ile  la  PfecHE,  attached  to  Canada, 
was  the  home  of  the  celebrated  Indian 
chief  Pontiac.  Parkman,  in  his  "  His- 
tory of  the  Conspiracy  of  Pontiac," 
says : — "  Pontiac,  the  Satan  of  this 
forest-paradise,  was  accustomed  to 
spend  the  early  part  of  the  summer 
upon  a  small  island  at  the  opening  of 
Lake  St.  Clair."  Another  author  says : 
— "  The  king  and  lord  of  all  this  coun- 
try lived  in  no  royal  state.    His  cabin 


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116 


TRIP  THROUGH  THE  LAKES. 


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was  a  small,  oven-shaped  structure  of 
bark  and  rushes.  Here  he  dwelt  with 
his  squaws  and  children;  and  here, 
doubtless,  he  might  often  have  been 
seen  carelessly  reclining  liis  naked 
form  on  a  rush-mat  or  a  bear-skin,  like 
an  ordinary  Indian  warrior." 

Tlie  other  fifteen  islands,  most  of 
them  small,  are  situated  below  Detroit, 
within  the  first  twelve  miles  of  the 
river  after  entering  it  from  Lake  Erie, 
the  largest  of  which  is  Grosse  Isle, 
attached  to  Michigan,  on  which  are  a 
number  of  extensive  and  well-culti- 
vated farms.  This  island  has  become 
a  very  popular  retreat  for  citizens  of 
Detroit  during  the  heat  of  summer, 


there  being  here  located  good  public 
houses  for  the  accommodation  of  visi- 
tors. 

Father  Hennepin,  who  was  a  pas- 
senger on  the  "Griffin,"  the  first  vessel 
that  crossed  Lake  Erie,  in  1679,  in  his 
description  of  the  scenery  along  the 
route  says :  "The  islands  are  the  finest 
in  the  world ;  tlie  strait  is  finer  than 
Niagara ;  the  banks  are  vast  meadows, 
and  the  prospect  is  terminated  with 
some  hills  covered  with  vineyards,  trees 
bearing  good  fruit,  groves  and  forests 
so  well  disposed  that  one  would  think 
that  nature  alone  could  not  have  made, 
without  the  help  of  art,  so  charming  a 
prospect." 


■^1 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES 

FROM  DETROIT  TO  THE  SAULT  STE.  5IARIE  AND  LAKE  SUPERIOR,   PASSING 

THROUGH   LAKE  HURON. 


MILES. 

370 
363 
345 
335 
327 
317 

301 

300 


289 
278 
266 
256 
251 
238 
232 
225 


PORTS,  »C. 


MILES. 


Detroit,  Mich 0 

Lake  St.  Clair 7 

St.  Clair  Flats  and  Canal  18 

Algonac 10 

Marine  City 8 

St.  Clair 10 

Port  Huron H  ,^ 

Sarnia,  Can J 

Fort  Gratiot \    , 

Point  Edward,  Can....  J 
{La/ce  Huron,  235  miles.) 

Lakeport 11 

Lexington 11 

Port  Sanilac 12 

Richmondville 10 

Forestville 5 

Sand  Beach 13 

Port  Hope 6 

Point  aux    Barque  and 

Light 7 

( Off  Saginaw  Bay.) 


145 


MILES. 

150 


25 

120 

35 

65 

43 

63 

69 

57 
49 

70 

45 
38 

35 

81 

29 

92 

26 

104 

15 

114 

119 

14 

132 

8 

138 

0 

PORTS,  &0. 


MILES. 


Thunder  Bay  and  Light  75 
(Alpena,  Mich.) 

Presque  Isle  Light 30 

Point  de  Tour 55 

Entrance  to  St.  Mary's  Riv. 

(Is.  OF  Mackin.\c, 35  inileB  West.) 

St.  Joseph's  Island,  Can.  8 

Mud  Lake 8 

Sailor's  Encampment  Is.  4 

Nebish  Rapids 7 

Lake  George 3 

Church's  Landing 6 

Garden  River  Set.,  Can..  5 
Sault  iStc.  Marie... 11 

(Usual  time,  36  hours.) 

Ship  Canal 1 

Point  au-Pins,  Can 6 

Pt.  Iroquois  &  Gros  Cap  8 
(Head  of  St.  Mary's  Riv.) 

White  Fish  Point 25 

Entrance  to  Lake  Superio" 


220 

250 
305 


313 
321 
325 
332 
335 
341 
344 
355 

356 
362 
370 

395 


TEIP  FEOM   DETEOIT  TO   MACKINAO,  GKEEN  BAY,  ETC. 


ir 


€anal  through 

The  length  of  the  Canal  is  8,200  feet; 
width  between  dykes,  800  feet;  depth  of 
water,  13  feet  below  lowest  stage  known 


Ht,  Clair  Flats. 

during  navigation.  This  work  is  con- 
structed by  the  U.  S.  Government ,  and  will 
be  completed  during  the  season  of  1871. 


St.  Mary's 

Since  the  completion  of  this  Canal  in 
185.5,  the  commerce  of  Lake  Superior  has 
augmented  so  very  much  as  now  to  re- 
quire the  capacity  of  the  Canal  to  be  in- 
creased. The  following  are  the  proposed 
enlargements : — 

1.  Deepen  the  existing  locks  to  a  depth 
of  K)  feet  on  the  miter  sill.  There  is  now, 
in  the  low  stage  of  navigation,  only  10|  ft. 


the 


Ship  Canal. 

2.  Deepen  the  canal  to  17  feet. 

3.  Construct   a    prolongation    of 
upper  end  of  the  North  Canal  bank. 

4.  Construct  another  lock,  overcoming 
the  fall,  (20  feet)  with  one  lift,  alongside 
the  present  two  locks.  Estimated  cost, 
$1,000,000.  The  work  to  be  completed  by 
the  United  States  Government,  and  tin- 
ished  in  1874. 


TRIP  FROM  DETROIT  TO  MACKINAC,  SAUT  STE.  MARIE. 


During  the  season  of  navigation  propel- 
lora  of  a  largo  class,  with  goo<l  accommoda- 
tions for  passengers,  leave  Detroit  daily  di- 
rect for  Mackinac,  Green  Bay,  Milwaukee, 
and  Chicago,  sitnatod  on  Lake  Michigan. 

Steamers  of  a  large  class,  carrying  pas- 
sengers and  freight,  also  leave  Detroit, 
almost  daily  for  the  Saut  Ste  Marie,  Irom 
tlience  passing  through  the  Ship  Canal 
into  Lake  Superior — forming  delightful 
excursions  during  the  summer  and  early 
autumn  months. 

For  further  information  of  steamboat 
routes,  see  Aduertisenvnts. 

On  leaving  Detroit  the  s*'eamers  run  in 
a  northerly  direction,  passing  Bell  or  Ho'j 
Island,  two  miles  distant,  which  is  about 
three  miles  long  and  one  mile  broad,  pre- 
senting a  handsome  appearance.  The 
Canadian  shore  on  the  right  is  studded 
with  dwellings  and  well  cultivated  farms. 

Peohe  Island  is  a  small  body 
of  laud  attached  to  Canada,  lying  at  the 
mouth  of  Detroit  River,  opposite  which, 
on  tlie  Michigan  shore,  is  Wind-Mill  Point 
and  light-house. 
Lake    St.    Clatr  commences    seven 


miles  above  Detroit ;  it  may  bo  said  to  be 
20  miles  long  and  25  miles  wide,  measur- 
ing its  length  from  tlie  outlet  of  St.  Clair 
River  to  the  head  of  Detroit  River.     Com- 
pared with  the  other  lakes  it  is  very  slial- 
low,   havmg  a  depth  of  only  from  8  to  21 
feet  as  intiicated  by  Bayfield's  chart.     It 
receives  the   waters  of  the  Upper  Lakes 
from  tlie  St.  Clair  Strait  by  several  cliau- 
nels  forming  islands,  and  discharges  them 
into  the   Detroit  River  or  Strait.     In  tiie 
upper  portion  of  the  lake  are  several  ex- 
tensive islands,   tlie  largest  of  which  is 
Walpole  Island ;  it  belongs  to  Canada,  and 
is  inhabited  mostly  l)y  Indians.     All  the 
islands  to  the  west  of  Walpole  Island  be- 
long to  Micliigan.     The  Walpole,  or  "  Old 
Ship     Channel,"     forms    the     boundary 
between  the  United  States  and  Canada. 
The    main    channel,    now   used    by   tho 
larger    class   of    vessels,    is    called   tlie 
"  North  ChanneL"     Here  are  passed  the 
"  St   Clair  Flats"  a  groat  impo'liment  to 
navigation,  for  the  removal  of  which  Con- 
gress  will   no  doubt  make   ample  api*o- 
priation  sooner  or  later.     The  northeastern 
channel,  separating  Walpole  Island  from 


*li 


^m 


I! 


118 


TRIP  THROUGH  THE  LAKES. 


"     ! 


:i;ii 


•Vm    i 


if'imii 


Ifl 

i 

i| 

1 

'f: 

,3j 

i 

ii, 

^ 

the  main  Canada  shore,  is  called  "  Che- 
nail  EcarteV  Besides  the  waters  passing 
through  the  Strait  of  St.  Clair,  Lake  St. 
Clair  recoivcs  tlie  river  Thames  from  the 
Canada  side,  which  is  navigal)lo  to  Chat- 
ham, some  24  milos ;  also  the  waters  of 
Clinton  River  from  the  west  or  American 
Bide,  the  latter  being  navigable  to  Mt. 
Clemens,  Michigan.  Several  other  streams 
flow  into  tlio  lalie  from  Canada,  the  prin- 
cipal of  which  is  the  River  Sydenham. 
Much  of  the  land  bordering  on  the  lake  is 
low  and  marsliy,  as  well  as  the  islands  ; 
and  in  places  there  are  large  plains  which 
are  iised  for  grazing  cattle. 

Ashley,  '  or  Nkw  B.vltimore,  situ- 
ated on  the  N.  W.  side  of  Lake  St. 
Clair,  30  miles  from  Detroit,  is  a  new  and 
tlourishing  place,  and  has  a  fine  section  of 
country  in  the  rear.  It  contains  tliree 
steam  saw-mills  several  other  manufac- 
tories, and  about  1,000  inhabitants.  A 
steamboat  runs  from  this  place  to  Detroit. 
Mt.  Clemens,  Macomb  Co.,  Mich.,  is 
situated  on  Clinton  River,  six  miles  above 
its  entrance  into  Lake  St.  Clair,  and  about 
30  miles  from  Detroit  by  lake  and  river. 
A  steamer  plies  daily  to  and  from  Detroit 
during  the  season  of  navigation.  Mt. 
Clemens  contains  the  county  buildings, 
several  churclies,  three  hotels,  and  a  num- 
ber of  stores  and  manufacturing  establish- 
ments, and  about  2,000  inhabitants.  De- 
troit is  distant  by  plank  road  only  20 
miles. 

Chatham,  Ont,,  46  miles  from  Detroit 
by  railroad  route,  and  about  24 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  river 
Thames,  which  enters  into  Lake  St. 
Clair,  is  a  port  of  entry  and  thriving  place 
of  business,  where  have  been  built  a  large 
number  of  steamers  and  sail-vessels. 

Algonac,  Mich.,  situated  near  the  foot 
of  St.  Clair  River,  40  miles  from  Detroit, 
contains  a  church,  two  or  tliree  saw- 
mills, a  grist-mill,  woollen  factory,  and 
about  700  inhabitants. 
Marine  City,  Mich,  7  miles  farther 


north,  is  noted  for  steamboat  building, 
there  being  extensive  ship-yards,  whore 
are  annually  employed  a  large  number  of 
workmen.  Here  are  four  steam  saw- 
mills, ma<!hine  shops,  etc.  Population 
about  1,'100.  Belle  River  here  enters  the 
St.  Clair  from  the  west. 

St.  Clair  Strait  connects  Lake  Huron 
with  Lake  St.  Oair,  and  discharges  the 
surplus  waters  of  Lakes  Superior,  Mich- 
igan, and  Huron.  It  Hows  in  a  southerly 
direction,  and  enters  Lake  St.  Clair  by  six 
cliannels,  the  nortii  one  of  which,  on  the 
Micliigan  side,  is  the  only  ono  at  present 
navigated  by  large  vessels  in  ascending 
and  descending  the  river.  It  receives 
several  tributaries  from  the  west,  or 
Micliigan ;  the  principal  of  wliich  are 
Black  River,  Pino  River,  and  Belle  River, 
and  several  rivers  How  into  it  from  tlie 
east,  or  Canadian  side.  It  lias  several 
flourishing  villages  on  its  banks.  It  is 
48  miles  long,  from  a  lialf  to  a  mile  wide, 
and  has  an  average  depth  of  from  40  to 
60  feet,  witli  a  current  of  three  miles  an 
hour,  and  an  entire  descent  of  about  15 
feet.  Its  waters  are  clear  and  transparent, 
the  navigation  easy,  and  the  scenery 
varied  and  beautiful — forming  for  its  en- 
tiro  length,  the  boundary  between  the 
'United  States  and  Canada.  The  banks  of 
tiio  upper  portion  are  higl\ ;  those  of  the 
lower  portion  are  low  and  in  parts  in- 
clined to  be  marshy.  Both  banks  of  the 
river  are  generally  well  settled,  and  many 
of  tlio  farms  are  beautifully  situated, 
Tliere  are  several  wharves  constructed  on 
the  Canada  side,  for  the  convenience  of 
supplying  the  numerous  steamboais  pass- 
ing and  repassing  with  wood.  There  is 
also  a  settlement  of  the  Chippewa  In- 
dians in  the  township  of  Sarnia,  Canada ; 
the  Indians  reside  in  small  log  or  bark 
houses  of  their  own  erection. 

The  City  of  St.  Clair,  Mich.,  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  west  side  of  St. 
Clair  Strait,  56  miles  from  Detroit  and  14 
miles  from  Lake  Huron.     This  is  a  thriv- 


'M. 


TRIP    FROM    DETROIT    TO    MACKINAC,    OKEKN    DAY,    CHICAGO,    KTC.      119 


ing  place,  with  many  fine  bnildings,  and 
is  a  preat  lumber  depOt.  It  contains  a 
nnmberof  fine  residences, a  bank,  several 
oiiurches  and  hotels,  two  flouring  mills 
and  six  steam  saw-mjlla,  besides  other 
manufacturing  establishments,  and  about 
3,000  inhabitants,  St.  Clair  has  an  active 
business  iu  the  construction  of  steamers 
and  other  lake  craft.  The  site  of  old 
Fort  St.  Clair,  now  in  ruins,  is  on  the 
border  of  the  town. 

SouTiiERLAND,  Can.,  is  a  small  village 
on  the  Canada  shore,  opposite  St.  Clair. 
It  was  laid  out  in  183;}  by  a  Scotch  gentle- 
man of  tlio  same  name,  who  here  erected 
an  Episcopal  church,  and  made  other 
valuable  improvements. 

MoORK,  is  a  small  village  ten  miles 
below  Sarnia  on  the  Canada  side. 

Fromkfikld,  or  Talpourd's,  Can.,  is 
anotiier  small  village,  handsomely  situated 
four  and  a  half  miles  below  Sarnia.  Hero 
is  an  Episcopal  cliurcli,  a  windmill,  and  a 
duster  of  dwellings. 

The  city  of  Port  Huron,  St.  Clair 
Co.,  Mich.,  a  port  of  entry,  is  advantageous- 
ly situated  on  the  west  bank  of  St.  Clair 
River,  at  the  mouth  of  Black  River,  two 
miles  below  Lake  Huron.  It  contains 
the  county  buildings  for  St,  Clair  Co.,  one 
Congregational,  one  Episcopal,  one  Bap- 
tist,one  Methodist,  and  oneKoraan  Catho- 
lic Church;  six  hotels  and  public  houses, 
forty  stores,  and  several  warehouses ;  one 
steam  liouring-mill,  eight  steam  saw-mills, 
producing  annually  a  largo  amount  of 
lumber,  the  logs  being  rafted  down  Black 
River,  running  through  an  extensive  pine 
region ;  here  are  also,  two  yards  for  build- 
ing of  lake  craft,  two  refineries  of  petrole- 
um oil,  one  iron  foundry,  and  several  other 
manufacturing  estabUshments.  Popula- 
tion in  1860,  4,300;  in  1870,  5,973. 

During  the  season  of  navigation,  there 
is  daily  intercourse  by  steamboats  with 
Detroit,  Saginaw,  and  ports  on  the  Upper 
Lakes.  A  steam  ferry-boat  also  plies  be- 
tween Port  Huron  and  Sarnia,  C,  W.,  the 


St.  Clair  River  here  being  about  one  mile 
in  width.  A  branch  of  the  (rrand  Trunk 
Railway  runs  from  Fort  Uratiot,  <mo  mile 
and  a  half  above  Port  Huron,  to  Detroit, 
a  distance  of  G2  miles,  affording  alto- 
gether speedy  m«des  of  conveyance.  A 
railroad  is  also  proposed  to  run  from 
Port  Huron,  to  intersect  with  the  Detroit 
and  Milwaukee  Railroad,  at  (Jwasso,  Mich- 
igan. 

Fort  Gratiot,  one  and  a  half  miles 
north  of  Port  Huron,  lies  directly  oppo- 
site Point  Henry,  C.  W.,  both  situated  at 
the  foot  of  Lake  Iluron,  where  commences 
St.  Clair  River.  It  has  become  an  impor- 
tant point  since  the  completion  of  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway  of  Canada,  linished 
in  1859,  which  road  terminates  by  a 
brancli  at  Detroit,  Mich.,  thus  forming  a 
direct  railroad  communication  from  Lake 
Huron,  eastward,  to  Montreal,  Quebec, 
and  Portland,  Maine, 

The  village  stands  contiguous  to  the 
site  of  Fort  (iratiot,  and  contains  besides 
the  railroad  buildings,  whicli  are  exten- 
sive, one  church,  five  public  houses,  the 
Gratiot  House  being  a  weU-kept  liotcl; 
two  stores,  one  oil  refinery,  and  about  400 
inhabitants.  A  steam  ferry-boat  plies 
across  the  St.  Clair  River,  to  accoinraodato 
passengers  and  freight;  the  river  liero 
being  about  1,000  feet  wide,  and  running 
with  considerable  velocity,  having  a  depth 
of  from  20  to  GO  feet. 

In  a  military  and  commercial  point  of 
view,  this  place  attracts  great  attention, 
no  doubt,  being  destined  to  increase  in 
population  and  importance.  The  Fort  was 
built  in  1814,  at  the  close  of  the  war  with 
Great  Britain,  and  consists  of  a  stockade, 
including  a  magazine,  barracks,  and  other 
accommodations  for  a  garrison  of  one  bat- 
talion. It  fully  commands  the  entrance 
to  Lake  Huron  from  the  American  shore, 
and  is  an  interesting  landmark  to  the  mar- 
iner. 

Sarnia,  Ont.,  situated  on  the  east 
bank  of  St.  Clair  River,  two  miles  belov 


';f-l*.U 


i  i 


,   . 

■^11 1 

120 


TRIP  TUROUOH  THE  LAKES. 


Lake  Huron  and  68  above  Detroit,  is  a 
port  of  entry  and  a  place  of  considerable 
trade;  two  lines  of  railroad  terminate 
at  tbis  point,  and  it  is  closely  coiniected 
witli  Port  Huron  on  the  American  shore 
by  means  of  a  steam  ferry.  The  town 
contains  a  court-house  and  jail,  county 
refj;isters  olHce  and  town  hall;  one  Epis- 
copal, one  Methodist,  oneCongregational, 
one  Baptist,  one  Roman  Catholic,  and 
one  Free  Church;  seven  public  houses, 
the  principal  being  the  Akzander  Houhc 
and  the  Western  IloUi;  twenty  stores  and 
several  groceries;  two  grain  elevators; 
two  steam  saw-mills;  one  steam  grist- 
mill, one  large  barrel  factory,  one  steam 
cal)inet  factory,  one  steam  iron  foundry, 
and  one  refinery  of  petroleum  oil,  be- 
sides other  manufacturing  establish- 
ments.    Population,  2,000. 

The  (Irand  Trunk  Railway  of  Canada 
terminates  at  Point  Edward,  2  miles 
from  Sarnia,  extending  eastward  to  Mon- 
treal, (Quebec  and  Portland,  Me.;  a 
branch  of  the  Great  Western  Railway 
also  terminates  at  Sarnia,  affording  a 
direct  communication  with  Niagara 
Falls,  Boston,  and  New  York.  Steam- 
ers run  from  Sarnia  to  (iroderich  and 
Saugeen,  Ont.;  also  to  and  from  Detroit, 
and  ports  on  the  Upper  Lakes. 

Canadian  Steamers  running  to  and 
from  Detroit  on  their  way  to  the  differ- 
ent ports  on  the  east  shore  of  Lake  Hu- 
ron, hug  the  Canada  side,  leaving  the 
bi'oad  waters  of  the  lake  to  the  westward. 
PoKVT  P^DWARD,  2  miles  above  Sar- 
nia, lies  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Huron,  op- 
!)08ite  Fort  Gratiot,  where  are  erected  a. 
arge  dei)6t  and  warehouses  connected 


with  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  of  Canada. 
Here  terminates  the  grand  railroad 
connection  extending  from  the  Atlantic 
ocean  to  the  Upper  Lakes.  It  also  com- 
mands the  entrance  into  Lake  Huron 
and  is  an  important  military  position 
although  at  present  unfortified.  In  the 
vicinity  is  an  excellent  fishery,  from 
whence  large  quantities  of  fish  arc  an- 
nually exported. 

Bayfield,  Ont.,  108  miles  from  De- 
troit, is  a  new  aiul  flourishing  place, 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  a  river  of  the 
same  name. 

GoDKRicn,  120  miles  north  of  De- 
troit, is  situated  on  elevated  ground  at 
the  mouth  of  Maitland  River,  where  ia 
a  good  harbor.  This  is  a  very  impor- 
tant and  growing  place,  where  termi- 
nates the  Buffalo  and  Huron  liailruad, 
IGO  miles  in  length. 

Kincardine,  30  miles  from  Gode- 
rich,  is  another  port  on  the  Canadian 
side  of  Lake  Huron,  where  the  British 
steamers  land  and  receive  passengers  on 
their  trips  to  Saugeen. 

Saugeen,  Ont,,  is  situated  at  the 
mouth  of  a  river  of  the  same  name, 
where  is  a  good  harbor  for  steamers 
and  lake  craft. 

Southampton  is  a  port  situated  on 
the  east  side  of  Lake  Huron,  where  ter- 
minates the  Wellington,  Grey  and  Bruce 
Railroad,  connecting  with  the  Great 
Western  Railway  of  Canada. 

Steamers  leave  Southampton  for  Lake 
Superior,  forming  a  through  line,  start- 
ing from  Sarnia,  Can,  This  Steamboat 
Line  forms  the  most  direct  route  from 
Buflfalo  and  Niagara  Falls,  passing  over 
the  Great  Western  Railway  of  Canada. 


TRIP    FROM    DETROIT   TO    MACKINAC,    GREEN    BAV,    CIIICAOO,    ETC.     121 


>•. 


ike 
irt- 


fotn 
Iver 


f^tcaniboat  Route  from  Port 
Huron  to  Suj^iiiuw  City*  etc. 

On  leaving  tlie  wharf  at  Port  Huron, 
the  steamers  pass  Fort  Gratiot  and  enter 
the  broad  waters  of  Lake  Huron,  one  of 
the  Great  Upper  Lakes,  all  alike  celebrated 
for  the  sparkling  purity  of  their  waters. 
The  shores  are  for  the  most  part  low, 
being  covered  by  a  heavy  growth  of 
forest  trees. 

Lakbpobt,  10  miles  from  Port  Hu- 
ron, is  a  small  village  lying  on  tlie  lake 
shore. 

Lexington,  12  miles  further,  is  the 
capital  of  Sanilac  County,  Michigan, 
where  is  a  good  steamboat  landing  and  a 
flourishing  village  of  1,000. 

Port  Sanilac,  34  miles  above  Port 
Huron,  is  another  small  village. 

FoKiiBSTViLLE,  Mich.,  47  miles  from 
Port  Huron,  and  120  miles  north  of  De- 
troit, situated  on  the  west  side  of  Lake 
Huron,  is  a  new  settlement,  where  is 
erected  an  extensive  steam  saw-mill.  It 
has  some  five  or  six  hundred  inhabi- 
tants, mostly  engaged  in  the  lumber  trade. 
Several  other  small  settlements  are  situ- 
ated on  the  west  shore  of  Lake  Huron, 
which  can  be  seen  from  the  ascending 
Bteamer,  before  reaching  Point  aux  Bar- 
ques, about  seventy-tive  miles  above  Port 
Huron. 

Saginaw  Bay  is  next  entered,  present- 
ing a  wide  expanse  of  waters;  Lake  Hu- 
ron here  attaining  its  greatest  width, 
where  the  mariner  often  encounters  lierce 
Btorras,  wliich  are  prevalent  on  all  of  the 
Upper  Lakes.  To  the  eastward  lies  the 
Georgian  Bay  of  Canada,  with  its  innu- 
merable islands. 

Bay  City,  favorably  situated  near  the 
mouth  of  Saginaw  River,  is  a  flouri.shing 
town  witli  a  population  of  about  9,000. 
Here  is  a  good  harbor,  from  whence  a 
large  amount  of  lumber  is  aumially 
exported.  It  has  fifteen  saw-mills, 
and  other  manufacturing  establishments. 


Steamers  run  daily  to  Detroit  and  other 
ports. 

East  Saginaw,  situated  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  river,  about  one  mile  below 
Saginaw  City,  is  a  new  and  llourisiiing 
place,  and  bids  fair  to  be  one  of  the  most 
important  cities  of  the  state.  It  is  largely 
engaged  in  the  lumber  trade,  and  in  tlie 
manufacture  of  salt  of  a  superior  quality. 
There  are  several  large  steam  saw-mills, 
many  with  gangs  of  saws,  and  capable  of 
sawing  from  four  to  five  million  feet  of 
lumber  annually ;  grist  and  llouriiig-mills, 
with  four  run  of  stones,  planing-mills, 
foundries,  machine  shops,  breweries,  a 
ship-yard,  and  other  manufacturing  es- 
tablishments, giving  employment  to  a 
great  number  of  workmen.  Here  is  a 
well-kept  hotel,  and  several  churches  ;  a 
banking  ollice  and  a  number  of  large 
stores  and  warehouses.  Coal  of  a  good 
quaUty  is  abundant,  being  fotmd  near  the 
river,  and  the  recent  discovery  of  sdlt 
springs  in  the  neighl)orhood  is  of  incal- 
culable value,  the  manufacture  of  salt 
being  carried  on  very  extensivelv.  Popu- 
lation in  1870,  11,360,  now  14,000. 

Several  hnes  of  steamers,  and  one  of 
propellers,  sail  from  this  port  regularly 
for  Detroit  and  otlier  lake  ports.  It  is 
near  the  head  of  navigation  for  lake  craft, 
where  five  rivers  unite  witli  the  .Siiginaw, 
giving  several  hundred  miles  of  water 
communication  for  river  rafting  and  tlie 
floating  of  saw-logs.  The  surrounding 
country  is  ricli  in  pine,  oak,  clierry,  black- 
walnut,  and  other  valuable  timber.  A 
railroad  is  finished  from  this  place  to 
Holly,  connecting  with  the  Detroit  and 
Milwaukee  Railroad. 

Saginaw  Gity,  Saginaw  County,  Mich., 
is  handsomely  situated  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  river,  23  miles  above  its  mo\itli.  it 
contains  a  cor.rt-house  and  jail,  several 
churches,  two  hotels,  fifteen  stores,  two 
warehouses,  and  six  steam  saw-mills. 
Population  about  10,000.  There  is  a  line 
section  of  country  in  the  rear  of  Saginaw 


iSil 


=  '\^|i:i^ 


:■'  :.!| 


1 

1    . 

i 

! 

if 

^..••^ 


122 


Tnip  Tmioi'firi  the  lakks. 


much  of  wliicli  ia  heavily  tiinhoicHl ;  the 
soil  produces  prain  iu  abiiiHlamv,  wliilo 
the  Htreauis  allorcl  incanH  of  easy  trans- 
portation to  markot.    iSteumers  run  daily 


foai  Sii^Huaw  City  and  /Oast  Saginaw  to 
Detroit,  (.'liicajro,  Ac,  and  other  porta  on 
tlio  lal^ea,  during  the  season  of  naviga- 
tion. 


LAKE  HURON. 


The  waters  of  Lake  ITuron,  lying  be- 
tween 43"  and  40"  nortli  latitude,  are 
Btirroundcd  by  low  shores  on  every  side. 
The  most  pron)inent  features  are  Saginaw 
Bay  on  tiie  southwest,  and  the  Georgian 
Bay  on  the  nortiieast;  the  latter  large 
Dody  of  water  being  entirely  in  tlio  limits 
of  Canada.  Tiie  lake  proper,  may  bo  said 
to  be  100  miles  in  width,  from  east  to 
west,  and  250  miles  in  length,  from  south 
to  north,  terminating  at  the  Straits  of 
Mackinac.  It  is  nearly  destitute  of  is- 
lands, presenting  one  broad  expanse  of 
waters.  It  possesses  several  good  har- 
bors on  its  western  shores,  although  as  yet 
but  little  frequented.  Point  aux  Barques, 
Thunder  Bay,  and  Tlmnder  Bay  Islands, 
are  prominent  points  to  the  mariner. 

Ta WAS,  or  Ottawa  Bay,  lying  on  the 
northwest  side  of  Saginaw  Bay,  atfords  a 
good  harbor  and  refuge  during  storms,  as 
well  as  Thunder  Bay,  lying  farther  to 
the  north.  Olf  Saginaw  Bay,  the  widest 
part  of  the  lake,  rough  weather  is  often 
experienced,  rendering  it  necessary  for 
steamers  and  sail  vessels  to  run  for  a  har- 
bor or  place  of  safety. 

In  addition  to  the  surplus  waters  whicl: 
Lake  Huron  receives  throufrh  the  Straits 
of  Mackinac  and  the  St.  Mary's  Iliver 
from  the  north,  it  receives  the  waters  of 
Saginaw  River,  and  sevor.'d  other  small 
streams  from  the  west.  Tl  is  lake  drains 
but  a  very  small  section  of  country  com- 
pared to  its  magnitude,  while  its  depth  is 
a  matter  of  astonishment,  being  from  1  Go 
to  7 50  feet,  according  to  recent  surveys; 


altitude  above  the  ocean,  r)74  feet,  being 
2()  feet  below  the  surface  of  Lake  Supe- 
rior. Its  outlet,  the  St.  Clair  River,  does 
not  seem  to  be  much  larger  than  the  St. 
Mary's  River,  its  principal  inlet,  thus  leav- 
ing nearly  all  its  other  waters  falling  in 
the  basin,  to  pass  olf  by  evaporation.  On 
entering  the  *SY.  Clair  River,  at  I-'ort  Gra- 
tiot, after  passing  over  the  Upper  Lakes, 
the  beholder  is  s\irprised  to  find  all  these 
accumulated  waters  compressed  down  to 
a  width  of  about  1,000  feet,  the  depth 
varying  from  20  to  GO  feet,  with  a  strong 
downward  current. 

The  Straits  of  Mackinac,  connecting 
Lakes  Huron  and  Miciugan,  is  a  liighly 
interesting  body  of  water,  embosoming 
several  pic'tures(iue  islands,  with  beautiful 
headlands  along  its  shores.  It  varies  in 
width  from  T)  to  ;{0  miles,  from  mainland 
to  mainland,  and  may  be  said  to  be  from 
30  to  40  miles  in  length.  Hero  are  good 
fishing  grounds,  as  well  as  at  several 
other  p  'nts  on  Lake  Huron  and  Georgian 
Bay. 

T'  ,e  of  Lake   ITuron  and  its 

perceptibly  warmer  than  Lake 

yi  during  the  spring,  summer,  and 

.mn  months,  while  the  winter  season 

!S  usually  rendered  extremely  cold  from 

the  prevalence  of  northerly  winds  passing 

over  its  exposed  surface.     On  the  30th  of 

July,  18()0,  at  8  A.  M.,  the  temperature  of 

the  air  near  the  middle  of  Lake  Huron, 

was  G4"  Fahr.,  the  water  on  tlie  surface, 

52'',  and  at  the  bottom,  50  fathoms  (300 

feet)  42"  Fahr. 


\  ; 


128 


THE  LOWER  PENINSULA  OF    MICHIGAN. 


Thr  Lower  Peninsula  of  Mirhigan  is 
nearly  Hurrounded  by  the  waters  of  the 
Groat  Lukes,  and,  in  this  respect,  its  situ- 
atiou  is  naturally  more  favorabli;  fur  all 
the  purposes  of  trade  and  coinmerco  than 
any  other  of  tho  Western  States. 

The  numerous  streams  which  penetrate 
every  portion  of  the  Peninsula,  some  of 
wliich  are  navigable  for  steamboats  a  con- 
siderable distance  from  tho  lake,  being 
natural  outlets  for  the  ])roducls  of  tho 
interior,  render  this  whole  region  desira- 
ble for  purposes  of  settlement  and  cultiva- 
tion. Kven  as  far  north  as  tlie  8lriiit  of 
Mackinac,  tiie  soil  and  climate,  to;;(,'ther 
with  the  valuable  timber,  oiler  great  in- 
ducements to  settlors;  and  if  the  proposed 
railroads,  under  the  recent  grant  of  larj,'e 
portions  of  tliese  lands  by  Congress,  are 
constructed  from  and  to  t!io  dillerent 
points  indicated,  this  e.xttnsivoand  heavi- 
ly timbered  region  will  speedily  be  re- 
claimed, and  become  one  of  the  most 
substantial  an<l  prosperous  agricultural 
portions  of  tho  West. 

It  is  well  tiiat  in  the  system  of  compen- 
sation, which  seems  to  bo  a  great  law  of 
tho  universe,  the  vast  prairies  which 
comprise  so  large  a  portion  of  this  great 
Western  domain  are  provided  so  well  with 
corresponding  regions  of  timber,  affording 
the  necessary  supply  of  lumber  for  the 
demand  of  the  increasing  population  which 
is  so  rapidly  pouring  into  these  Western 
States. 

Tlic  State  of  Michigan — all  the  waters 
of  which  How  into  tlio  Basin  of  tho  St. 
Lawrence — Nortliorn  Wisconsin,  and  Min- 
nesota are  the  sources  from  which  tho 
States  of  Ohio,  Indiana,  Illinois,  and  Iowa, 
and  a  largo  portion  of  the  prairie  country 
west  of  tho  Mississippi,  must  derive  their 
supply  of  this  important  article  (lumber). 
The  supply  in  the  West  is  now  equal  to  the 
demand,  but  tho  consumption  is  so  groat, 
and  the  demand  so  constantly  increasing 


with  the  development  and  settlement  of 
tho  country,  that  of  necessity,  within 
comparatively  n  very  few  years,  iliese  vast 
forests  will  bo  e.\liausted.  liut  as  tho 
timber  is  exhausted  tlie  soil  is  pre|)ared 
for  cultivaticm,  and  a  large  portion  of  the 
northern  part  of  the  southern  I'eninsula 
of  Michigan  will  bo  settled  and  cultivated, 
as  it  is  tlie  most  reliable  wheat-growing 
portion  of  the  Union. 

Besides  tho  ports  and  towns  already 
described,  thero  are  on  Luke  Huron,  after 
leaviny;  Saginaw  liaij,  going  nortli,  several 
settlements  and  lumber  estabhshments, 
fisheries,  Ac. 

Ta  WAS  City,  the  county  seat  of  lofico 
county,  is  a  nourishing  j)laee  of  about 
900  inliabitants,  situated  at  the  month 
of  Tawas  river,  being  about  180  miles 
north  of  Detroit.  It  contains,  besides 
the  county  i)uil(lings,  a  church,  2  hotels, 
3  steam  saw-mills  and  12  or  15  stores. 

Ali'ENA,  capital  of  Alpena  county, 
is  favorably  situated  on  the  shore  of 
Thunder  Baj^,  Lake  Huron,  220  miles 
above  Detroit,  Iving  in  N.  lat.  45°  05'; 
W.  long.  83°  30<  It  is  reached  during 
the  season  of  navigation  by  steamers 
from  Detroit  and  Bay  City.  Alpena 
was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1871,  and 
now  contains  about  3,500  inhabitants. 
An  important  mineral  spring  is  here  lo- 
cated po.ssessing  rare  medicinal  qualities 
and  is  much  frequented  by  strangers. 
A  commodious  Hotel  has  recently  been 
erected  for  the  accommodation  of  giiest.s. 

Old  Mackinac,  lying  on  the  mainland, 
is  one  of  the  most  interesting  points,  beingi 
celebrated  both  in  French  and  Knglisii 
history  when  those  two  great  powers  con- 
tended for  tho  possession  of  this  vast  Lake 
Region.  It  is  proposed  to  build  a  railroad 
from  Old  Mackinac  to  Saginaw,  and  one  to 
the  southern  confines  of  the  State,  while 
anotlior  lino  of  road  will  extend  north- 
'  westward  to  Lake  Superior,  crossing  the 


• ;  ii' 


'Mi  '  :■ 


ll'lli 


ii;i'i''  ii; 


124 


TRIP  THROUGH  THE  LAKES. 


straits  by  a  steam  ferry.  A  town  plot  has 
been  surveyed,  and  preparations  made  for 
settlement. 

Passing  around  the  western  extremity 
of  the  Peninsula,  at  the  Waugoshance  Light 
and  Island,  tlio  next  point  is  LWle  Traverse 
Bmj,  a  most  beautiful  sheet  of  water. 

About  lifteeu  miles  southwesterly  from 
Little  Traverse  we  enter  Grand  Tu.vvekse 
Bay,  a  largo  and  beautiful  arm  of  the 
lake,  exteiiding  about  tliirty  miles  inland. 
This  bay  is  divided  into  two  parts  by  a 
point  of  land,  from  two  to  four  miles  yido, 
extending  from  the  head  of  the  bay  about 
eighteen  miles  toward  the  lal<e.  The 
country  around  this  bay  is  exceedingly 
picturesque,  and  embraces  one  of  the  llnest 
agricultural  i)()rtions  of  the  State.  The 
climate  is  mild,  and  fruit  and  grain  of  all 
kinds  suitable  to  a  nortliern  latitude  are 
produced,  with  less  liability  to  injury  from 
frost  than  in  some  of  the  southern  poriluua 
of  the  State. 

Grand  Tuavkrse  City  is  located  at  the 
head  of  the  west  arm  of  the  bay,  and  is 
the  terminus  of  the  proposed  railroad  from 
Grand  Rapids,  a  distance  of  about  140  miles. 

Passing  out  of  tlio  bay  and  around  the 
point  dividing  the  west  arm  from  the  lake, 
we  first  arrive  a*^  the  river  Aux  Bees  Sceis. 
There  is  here  a  natural  harbor,  capable  of 
accommodating  the  larger  class  of  vessels 
and  steamboats.  A  town  named  Frank- 
fort has  been  commenced  at  this  place, 
and  with  its  natural  advantages,  and  the 
enterprise  of  parties  who  now  contemplate 
nmking  furtlier  improvements,  it  will  soon 
become  a  very  desirable  and  convenient 
point  for  the  accommodation  of  navigators. 

The  ishmds  comprising  the  Beavers, 
the  Manitous,  and  Fox  Isles  sliould  here 
bo  noticed.  The  Hearers  lie  a  little  south 
of  west  from  the  entrance  to  the  Strait  of 
Mackinac,  the  Manitous  a  little  south  of 
these,  and  the  Fo.xes  still  farther  down  the 
lake.  These  are  all  valuable  for  fishing 
purposes,  and  for  wood  and  lumber.  Lying 
in  the  route  of  all  the  steamboat  lines  from 


Chicago  to  Buffalo  and  the  Upper  Lakes, 
the  harbors  on  these  islands  are  stopping- 
points  for  the  boats,  and  a  profitable  trade 
is  conducted  in  furnishing  the  necessary 
supplies  of  wood,  etc. 

We  next  arrive  tit  Manistke,  a  small 
but  important  settlement  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Manistee  River.  The  harbor  is  a 
natural  one,  but  r  luires  some  improve- 
ment, A  large  t  ^e  is  carried  on  with 
Chicago  in  lumber. 

The  next  point  of  importance  is  the 
mouth  of  the  Fere  Marquette  River.  Here 
is  the  terminus  of  the  proposed  railroad 
from  Flint,  in  Genesee  County,  connect- 
ing with  Detroit  by  the  Detroit  and  Md- 
waukee  Railway,  a  distance  of  about  180 
miles. 

The  harbor  is  very  superior,  and  tho 
country  in  the  vicinity  is  well  adapted  for 
settlement.  About  16  miles  in  the  inte- 
rior is  situated  one  of  the  most  compact 
and  extensive  tracts  of  pine  timber  on  tho 
western  coast. 

About  forty  miles  south  of  this,  in  the 
county  of  Oceana,  a  small  village  is  loca- 
ted at  the  mouth  of  Win'te  I^iver.  Tiie  har- 
bor here  is  also  a  natural  one,  and  the 
region  is  settled  to  considerable  extent  by 
farmers.  Lumber  is,  however,  the  prin- 
cipal commodity,  and  the  trade  is  prin- 
cipally with  the  <.;hicago  market. 

The  next  point,  Muskegon,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Muskegon  River,  is  supported  prin- 
cipally by  the'  largo  lumber  region  of 
the  interior.  Numerous  steam  saw-mills 
are  now  in  active  operation  here,  giving 
the  place  an  air  of  life  and  activity. 

The  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  on  the 
lake,  and  is  at  present  accessible  for  all  tho 
vessels  trading  between  Muskegon  and 
Chicago. 

Grand  Haven,  Ottawa  Co.,  Mich,  ia 
aituated  on  both  sides  of  Grand  River,  at 
its  entrance  into  Lake  Michigan,  here 
eighty-five  miles  wide;  on  tho  o;)po8ito  side 
lies  Milwaukee,  Wis. 


^^.P^ 


the 

loca- 

har- 

the 

ent  by 

prin- 

prin- 

mouth 
i  prin- 
ion  oi 
mills 
giving 

on  the 
■all  the 
in  and 

'ioh,   ia 


tiver, 


at 


12i 


DIREf:JT    STEAMBOAT    ROUTE    FROM    DETROIT    TO 
GREEN  BAY,  CHICAGO,    &c. 


here 
jito  Bide 


Sailing  direct  through  Lake  ITu'-on  to  | 
Mackin-'.i-,  or  to  the  Do  Tour  entrance  to 
St.  Mary's  River,  a  distance  of  about  3:J0 
miles,  the  steamer  oftun  runs  out  of  aiglit 
of  land  on  crosrsing  Saginaw  Bay. 

Thunder  Bay  Light  is  lirst  sighted  and 
pas.sed,  and  then  Presquo  Isle  Light,  when 
the  lake  narrows  and  tho  Strait  of  Mack- 
inac is  soon  entered,  vi'here  lies  the  ro- 
mantic Island  of  Mackinac.  The  Strait 
of  Mackinac,  with  the  approaches  thereto 
from  Lakes  Huron  and  Michigan,  will  al- 
ways command  attention  from  the  passing 
traveller.  Through  tliis  channel  will  pass, 
for  ages  to  come,  a  great  current  of  com- 
merce, and  its  shores  will  be  enlivened 
with  civilized  life. 

In  this  great  commercial  route,  Lake 
ITuron  is  traversed  its  entire  length,  often 
affording  f^lie  traveller  a  taste  of  sea-sick- 
ness and  its  consequent  eviln.  Yet  there 
often  are  times  whou  Lake  Huron  is  hard- 
ly ruflled,  and  the  timid  passenger  enjoys 
the  voyage  with  as  much  zest  as  the  more 
experienced  mariner. 

Mackinac,  crowned  by  a  fortress,  where 
wave  the  Stars  and  the  Strijyes,  the  gem  of 
the  Upper  Lake  islands,  may  vie  with  any 
other  locality  for  the  salubrity  of  its  cli- 
mate, for  its  picturesque  beauties,  and  for 
its  vicinity  to  lino  fishing-grounds.  Here 
the  invalid,  the  seeker  of  pleasure,  as 
well  as  the  sportsman  and  angler,  can  find 
enjoyment  to  their  heart's  content  during 
warm  weather.     Fur  descriptioii^  seeji.  88. 

On  leaving  Mackinac  for  Green  Bay,  the 
steamer  getierally  runs  a  west  course  for 
tho  mouth  of  the  bay,  passing  the  Beaver 
Islands  in  Lake  Michigan  before  entering 
the  waters  of  Green  Bay,  about  150  miles. 

Summer  Island  lios  on  the  north  side 
and  Rock  Island  lies  on  the  south  side 
of  the  entrance  to  Green  Bay,  forming  a 
diarming  view  from  the  deck  of  a  steamer. 


Washington  or  Pot  a  watomee  Island. 
CiiAMiiERs'  Island,  and  other  small  islands 
are  next  passed  on  tho  upward  trip  toward 
tho  head  of  the  bay. 

Washincton  Hauuor,  situated  at  tho 
north  end  of  Washington  Island,  is  a  pictu- 
resque fishing  station,  aflbrding  a  good 
steamboat-landing  and  safe  anchorage. 

Green  Bay,  about  100  miles  long  and 
from  20  to  30  miles  wide,  ia  a  splendid 
sheet  of  water,  destined  no  doubt  to  be 
eulivenod  with  commerce  and  pleasura 
e.\cursion3. 

Ports     of    Lake    Hfichlgfan — 
East  and  Sftoutli  ^iliores. 

Uliclligan  City,  Ind.,  situated  at 
the  extreme  south  end  of  Lake  Michigan, 
is  distant  46  miles  from  Chicago  by  water 
and  228  miles  from  Detroit  by  railroad 
route.  The  New  Albany  &  Salem  Hail- 
road,  228  miles  in  length,  terminates  at 
this  place,  connecting  with  the  Michigan 
Central  Railroad.  Several  plank  roads 
also  terminate  here,  aflbrding  facilities  for 
crossing  the  extensive  prairies  lying  in 
the  rear.  Hero  are  several  large  store- 
houses, situated  at  the  mouth  of  Trail 
Creek,  intended  for  the  storage  and  ship* 
ment  of  wheat  and  other  produce ;  20  or 
30  stores  of  diflerent  kinds,  several  hotels, 
and  a  branch  of  the  State  Bank  of  Indiana. 
It  now  contains  5,000  inhabitants,  and  is 
steadily  increasing  in  we."'*h  and  numbers 

Tho  harbor  of  Michigan  City,  which 
has  been  closed  for  a  number  of  years  to 
large  vessels  by  the  accumulation  of  sand 
in  the  channel  is  again  open,  with  a  good 
depth  of  water.  Vessels  loaded  with  iron 
ore  and  with  lumber  enter  and  discharge 
cargoes  without  diflSculty.  An  efficient 
dredge  is  at  work,  and  Michigan  City  will 
soon  become  a  lake  port  of  importance. 


W 


ill 

1. 


m 


i: 

.1 

ii 

1^ 

126 


TRIP    THROUGH    THE    LAKES. 


New  Buffalo,  Mich.,  lying  50  miles 
east  of  Chicago  by  steamboat  route,  is  situ- 
ated on  the  line  of  the  Michigan  Central 
llailroad,  218  miles  west  of  Detroit.  Hero 
Lave  been  erected  a  light-house  and  pier, 
the  latter  aflbrding  a  good  landing  for 
steamers  and  lake  craft.  The  settlement 
contains  two  or  three  hundred  inhabi- 
tants, and  several  stores  and  storehouse."?. 
it  is  surrounded  by  a  light,  sandy  soil, 
which  abounds  all  along  the  east  and 
south  shores  of  Lake  Michigan. 

St.  Jo.sei'ii,  Berrien  Co.,  Mich.,  is  ad- 
vantageously situated  on  the  cast  shore 
of  Lake  Michigan,  at  the  mouth  of  St. 
Joseph  River,  194  miles  west  of  Detroit. 
Here  is  a  good  harbor,  affording  about  1(1 
feet  of  water.  The  village  contains  about 
1,000  inhabitants,  and  a  number  of  stores 
and  storehouses.  An  active  trade  in 
lumber,  grain,  and  fruit  is  carried  on  at 
this  place,  mostly  with  the  Chicago 
market,  it  being  distant  about  70  miles 
by  water.  Steamers  of  a  small  class  run 
from  St.  Josepb  to  Niles  and  Constantine, 
a  distance  of  120  miles,  to  which  place  the 
St.  Joseph  River  is  navigable. 

St.  Joseph  River  rises  in  the  southern 
portion  of  Michigan  and  Northern  Indiana, 
and  is  about  250  miles  long.  Its  general 
course  is  nearly  westward;  is  very  ser- 
pentine, Avith  an  equable  current,  and 
flowing  through  a  fertile  section  of  coun- 
try, celebrated  alike  for  the  raising  of 
grain  and  different  kinds  of  fruit.  There 
are  to  be  found  several  nourishing  villages 
on  its  banks.  The  principal  are  Constan- 
tine, Klkhart,  South  Bend,  and  Niles. 

Niles,  situated  on  St.  Joseph  River,  is 
2G  miles  above  its  mouth  by  land,  and  191 
miles  from  Detroit  by  railroad  route. 
This  is  a  flourishing  village,  containing 
abort  3,000  inhabitants,  five  churches, 
three  hotels,  several  large  stores  and 
flouring  mills;  the  country  around  pro- 
ducing large  quantities  of  wheat  and  other 
kinds  of  grain.  A  small  class  of  steamers 
run  to  St.  Joseph  below  and  other  places  ! 


above,  on  the  river,  affording  great  facQ- 
ities  to  trade  in  this  section  of  country. 

South  Haven,  Van  Buren  Co.,  lies  at 
the  mouth  of  Black  River. 

Naples.  Allegan  Co.,  lies  on  the  east 
side  of  Lake  Michigan,  near  the  mouth  of 
the  Kahunazoo  River. 

Amstekdam,  Ottawa  Co.,  is  a  small  vil- 
lage lying  near  the  Lake  shore,  about  20 
mile    «outh  of  Grand  Haven. 

Hui-LAND,  situated  on  Black  Lnke,  a  few 
miles  above  Amsterdam,  is  a  thriving 
town,  settled  mostly  by  Hollanders.  Hero 
is  a  pood  and  spacious  liarbor. 

The  counties  of  Berrien,  Cass,  Van  Bu- 
ren, Kalamazoo,  AUogan,  Kent,  and  Ot- 
tawa are  all  celebrated  as  a  fruit-bearing 
region. 

The  Ports  extending  from  Grand  Haven 
to  Saginaw  Bay  are  fully  described  iu 
another  portion  of  this  work,  as  well  aa 
the  bays  and  rivers  falling  into  Lakes 
Michigan  and  Huron. 


Steamcri  on  Lake  Iflicliigan. 

Steamers  leavo  Chicago  daily,  during 
the  season  of  navigation,  for  Grand  Haven 
and  Muskegon,  connecting  with  steamers 
running  to  Pere  Marquette,  Manistee,  and 
other  ports  on  the  Michigan  side  of  the 
lake. 

Daily  linos  of  steamers  also  leave  Chi- 
cago for  Racine,  Milwaukee,  Port  Wash- 
ington, Sheboygan,  Manitov/oc,  Two 
Rivers,  and  other  ports  on  the  Wisconsin 
side  of  the  lake. 

Lines  of  propellers  also  leave  Chicago 
daily  for  all  the  principal  ports  on  the 
west  side  of  Lake  Michigan,  stopping  at 
Mackinac,  Port  Huron,  Detroit,  etc.,  af- 
fording a  speedy  and  cheap  mode  of  con- 
veyance from  Chicago  and  Milwaukee  to 
all  the  principal  ports  on  Lakes  Erie  and 
Ontario. 


127 


CHICAGO, 


"Thr  Garbek  City,"  the  largest  city 
of  Illinois,  is  advantageously  situated  on 
the  south-western  shore  of  Lake  Michi- 
gan, at  the  mouth  of  Chicago  river,  in  N. 
lat.,  41°  52',  and  "W.  long,,  from  Green- 
wich, 87°  35'  ;  being  elevated  eight  to 
ten  feet  above  the  lake,  the  level  of  which 
great  body  of  water  is  578  feet  above  the 
Atlantic  Ocer.u.  This  city  has  within 
forty  years  risen  from  a  small  settlement 
around  an  old  fort  (Dearborn),  to  a  place 
of  great  commercial  importance,  being 
now  one  of  the  largest  interior  cities  in 
the  United  States,  exhibiting  a  rapidity 
of  growth  and  wealth  never  before  known 
in  the  annals  of  tlie  country.  Tho  har- 
bor and  river  has  a  depth  of  from  12  to 
14  feet  of  water,  which  makes  it  a  com- 
modious and  safe  haven ;  and  it  has 
been  much  improved  artificially  by  the 
construction  of  piers,  which  extend  on 
each  side  of  the  entrance  of  the  river,  for 
some  distance  into  the  lake,  to  prevent 
the  accumulation  of  sand  upon  the  bar. 
The  light-house  is  on  the  south  side  of 
the  harbor,  and  shows  a  fixed  light  on 
a  tower  40  feet  above  tho  surface  of  the 
lake ;  there  is  also  a  beacon  light  on  the 
end  of  the  pier.  In  a  naval  and  military 
point  of  view,  this  is  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant ports  on  the  Upper  Lakes,  and 
should  be  strongly  defended.  Along  the 
river  and  its  branches,  for  several  miles, 
are  immense  grain  warehi  'ses,  some  of 
which  are  capable  of  storing  upward  of 
1,000,000  bushels  of  grain — and  along- 
side of  which  vessels  can  bo  loaded  with- 
in a  few  hours.  The  whole  capacity  for 
storage  of  grain  exceeds  10,000,000  bush- 
els. There  are  also  immense  storehouses 
for  the  storage  of  flour,  beef,  pork,  whis- 
ky, and  other  merchandise,  and  capa- 
cious docks  and  yards  for  lumber,  wood, 
coal,  &c.,  Chicago  now  being  one  of  the 


greatest  grain,  provision,  and  lumber 
markets  in  the  world ;  the  shipment  of 
flour  and  grain  alone,  in  1873,  being 
nearly  100,000,000  bushels. 

Tho  city  of  Chicago  is  laid  out  at  right 
angles,  the  streets  run  from  the  lake 
westward,  intersected  by  others,  all  of 
which  are  about  80  feet  wide  ;  it  extends 
along  tho  lake,  north  and  south,  about  8 
miles,  there  being  a  gradual  rise  in  the 
ground,  affording  a  good  drainage  into 
tho  river  and  lake.  Tho  business  por- 
tion of  the  city  is  mostly  built  of  brick, 
and  a  fine  quality  of  stone,  sometimes 
called  "  Athens  marble."  This  stone  is 
found  in  the  vicinity  of  tho  city,  and  is 
highly  prized  as  a  building  materiRl.  The 
dweUing-houses  are  mostly  constructed 
of  wood,  except  costly  residences,  which 
are  of  brick,  or  stone  and  marble. 

The  city  contains  a  United  States 
custom-house  and  post-office  building, 
a  court-house  and  jail,  the  county  build- 
ings, a  Marine  Hospital,  Rush  Medical 
College,  and  Chicago  Medical  College ;  the 
Chamber  of  Commerce,  a  new  edifice, 
built  of  Athens  stone  ;  a  new  opera  house, 
academy  of  music,  and  other  places  of 
amusement;  market  houses ;  several  large 
hotels;  160  churches  of  different  denomi- 
nations, many  of  which  are  costly  edi- 
fices; 20  banks;  16  marine  and  fire  insur- 
ance companies;  gas  works  and  water 
works.  The  manufacturing  establish- 
ments of  Chicago  are  numerous  and  ex- 
tensive, consisting  of  iron  founderies  and 
machine  shops,  railroad  car  manufactory, 
steanj  saw,  planing,  and  flouring  mills, 
manufactories  of  agricultural  implements, 
breweries,  distilleries,  &c.  Numerous 
steamers,  propellers,  and  sailing  vessels 
ply  between  this  place  and  the  ports  on 
Lake  Michigan  and  Green  Bay ;  also,  to 
the  Lake  Superior  ports,  Golhogwood  und 


^...rY^ 


I 


II 


Wl ! 


mi 


]28 


TRIP  THROUOH  THE  LAKES. 


f   1 


Goderich,  Can.,  Detroit,  Cleveland, 
Dunkirk,  Bulililo,  and  to  the  ports  on 
Lake  Ontario,  passing  through  the 
Welland  Canal;  vessels  occasionally 
Bailing  to  and  from  European  ports, 
via  the  St.  Lawrence  river. 

The  Illinois  and  Michigan  Canal,  con- 
necting Lake  Michigan  with  Illinois 
river,  which  is  tiO  feet  wide  at  the  top, 
6  feet  deep,  and  107  miles  in  length, 
including  5  miles  of  river  navigation, 
terminates  here,  through  which  is 
brought  a  large  amount  of  produce 
from  the  south  and  southwest ;  and 
the  numerous  Railroads  radiating  from 
Chicago,  add  to  the  vast  accumulation 
which  is  here  shipped  for  the  Atlantic 
sea-board.  Chicago  being  within  a 
short  distance  of  the  most  extensive 
coal-fields  to  be  found  in  Illinois,  and 
the  pineries  of  Michigan  and  Wiscon- 
sin, as  well  as  surrounded  by  the  finest 
grain  region  on  the  face  of  the  globe, 
makes  it  the  natural  outlet  for  the  va- 
ried and  rich  produce  of  an  immense 
section  of  fertile  country. 

The  establishment  of  the  great  Union 
Stock  Yard  renders  Chicago  more  at- 
tractive than  ever  as  a  cattle  market. 

The  Lake  Tunnel,  extending  under 
Lake  Michigan,  supplies  the  City  with 
pure  and  wholesome  water.  Two  Ar- 
tesian Wells  are  also  in  operation,  sit- 
uated three  miles  west  of  the  lake, 
yielding  l,200,000gallons  of  pure  water 
daily  The  City  Railroads  extend  to 
the  limits  of  the  City  in  every  direc- 
tion, aflbrding  a  cheap  and  speedy 
mode  of  conveyance,  while  from  the 
numerous  Railroad  depOts,  passengers 
are  conveyed  to  remote  points,  east, 
west,  north  and  south, 

Two  Tunnels  are  completed  under  the 
Chicago  river,  for  free  passage  of  pe- 
destrians and  wheeled  vehicles. 


Population  of  Chicago  at  Dif- 
ferent Periods. 

United  States  Census,  1840....  4,853 

State  Census,  1845 12,088 

United  States  Census,  1850....  29,963 

State  Census,  1855 80,000 

United  States  Census,  18G0....  109,260 

State  Census,  1865 178,900 

United  States  Census,  1870....  298,977 


Great  Fire  of  1871. — Chicago  was 
visited  with  the  most  destructive  fire 
on  record  on  the  8th  and  9th  of  Octo- 
ber, 1871.  Property  to  an  inimense 
amount  was  destroyed,  including  most 
of  the  public  buildings,  hotels  and 
stores  in  the  heart  of  the  city.  The 
fire  extended  over  about  2,000  acres, 
including  a  large  portion  of  the  city 
limits  facing  on  Lake  Michigan.  The 
duration  of  the  fire  was  about  30  hours, 
destroying  upwards  of  20,000  buildings. 
Estimated  loss  $200,000,000,  of  which 
amount  about  one  half  was  insured. 
Notwithstanding  the  great  destruction 
of  i)roperty  and  the  derangement  of 
business,  the  city  has  improved  with 
wonderful  rapidity.  The  business  of 
1873  is  said  to  exceed  any  previous 
year.  The  grain,  lumber  and  provision 
business  is  enormous,  exceeding  any 
other  place  on  the  continent. 


Objects  of  Interest.  —  Chicago 
can  boast  of  several  Public  Parks, 
situated  in  diflferent  parts  of  the  City. 
Lake  Park  and  Lincoln  Park  lie  on  the 
shores  of  Lake  Michigan.  Union  Park, 
lying  on  the  west  side  of  the  City,  is 
of  large  size,  and  beautifully  orna- 
mented with  a  small  lake  in  its  centre, 
being  crossed  by  three  bridges.  The 
other  parks  are, — Jefferson  Park,  Wash- 
ington Park,  Dearborn  Park,  Ellis  Park, 
and  Vernon  Park. 


■I 


•  -a 


I 


CHICAGO. — RAILROADS. 


129 


Avenues  and  Streets. — There  are 
37  miles  of  Avenues  and  Streets,  paved 
with  wooden  block  pavements,  not  in- 
chiding  the  graveled  or  macadamized 
streets.  Formerly  Chicago  was  the 
subject  of  complaint,  owing  to  poor 
thorouglifares,  there  are  to-day  few 
cities  in  the  Union  presenting  more 
drives,  of  miles  in  length,  of  smoothly 
paved  streets. 

Tunnels  and  Bridges. —  Washinfj- 
ton  and  Ln  Salle  Street  Tunnels,  the  lat- 
ter, just  finished,  affords  great  facilities 
for  passing  under  the  Cliicago  river, 
while  numerous  bridges  span  the  stream 
at  the  intersection  of  the  different 
streets  running  north  and  west.  Chicago 
River  itself,  crowded  with  Steam  Pro- 


pellers and  sail  vessels,  presents  great 
attraction. 

Hotels  op  Chicago. 

The  principal  Hotels  erected  since 
the  great  tire,  are  the  Grand  Pacific, 
Palmer  House,  Sherman  House,  Tre- 
mont  House,  Gardiner  House,  IJriggs 
House,  Honore  Hotel,  Anderson's  Eu- 
ropean Hotel  and  several  others,  vary- 
ing in  charges  from  $2  to  $5  per  day. 
Besides  the  above  there  are  numerous 
other  Hotels  and  Restaurants. 

Railroads. — The  numerous  Rail- 
roads that  diverge  from  Chicago,  run- 
ning south,  north,  ea.-^'  :  id  west,  car- 
rying an  immense  number  of  passen- 
gers and  greit  quant'  .'S  of  freight,  is 
the  wonder  . .'  the  w  .  d. 


Mr 


of 

,M0U8 

r'ision 
any 


icago 

ARKS, 

City. 

on  the 

Farfc, 

ity,  is 

orna- 

centre. 
The 

,iro.s/i- 

8  Park, 


IRON   PROPELLER. 


>      ■      I 


'^H^^ 


180 


TRIP  THROUGH  THE  LAKES. 


MONTHLY  TEMPERATURES. 


The  following  Table  is  of  interest,  as  showing  the  relative  Temperatures  of 
the  air  and  of  the  water  at  the  crib,  at  its  entrance  into  the  Tunnel. 


MONTHS. 

niOIIEBT. 

AIR.— Fah 

MEAN. 

r. 

LOWEST. 

WATER.— 1 

HIQUEST.             UEAN. 

-ahr, 

LOWEST. 

April,        1869. 

61° 

44° 

31° 

44° 

38° 

33° 

May,             " 

69° 

61° 

41° 

51° 

46° 

43° 

June,            " 

74° 

63° 

53° 

60° 

53° 

60° 

July,             " 

80° 

71° 

62° 

67° 

63° 

60° 

August,         " 

88° 

75° 

66° 

72° 

67° 

64° 

September,  " 
October,        " 

76° 
59° 

65° 
45° 

53° 

28° 

72° 
57° 

63° 
47° 

57° 
40° 

November,   " 
December,    ** 

50° 
38° 

35° 
30° 

28° 
18° 

40° 
33° 

36° 
32° 

33° 

32° 

January,     1870 

40° 

28° 

10° 

32° 

32° 

32° 

February,     " 
March, 

39° 
41° 

30° 
33° 

9° 
12° 

33° 
33° 

32° 
32° 

32° 
32° 

Mean  Ann.  Temp. 

47r 

Fahr. 

45° 

Fahr. 

STEAMBOAT  ROUTE, 

From  Chicago  and  Milwaukee  to  Mackinac,  Saut  Ste.  Marib  and  Duluth. 


MILES. 

PORTS,  liO. 

MILES. 

MILES. 

PORTS,  &0. 

MILES. 

(Lake  Michigan.) 

715 

Beaver  Island,  Mich. 

.  70 

345 

1,060 

Chicago,  111 

0 

684 

Point  Waugoshance.. 

.  31 

376 

1,025 

Waukegiin,  Dl 

35 

{Straits  of  3Ia/ikinac,) 

1,009 

Kenosha,  Wis 16 

31 

998 

Racine,  Wis ,.11 

62 

668 

Old  Mackinac 

16 

392 

975 

Milwaukee,  Wis. 23 

85 

660 

Mackinac 

.     8 

400 

950 

Port  Washington,  Wis. 25 

110 

624 

De  Tour 

36 

436 

925 

Sheboygan,  Wis 25 

135 

(St.  Mary's  River 

.) 

895 

Manitowoc,  Wis 30 

165 

888 

Two  Rivers,  Wis 7 

^7?, 

584 

Church's  Landing.... 

.  40 

476 

866 

Kewaunee,  Wis 22 

194 

570 

ISaut  Ste.  Marie 

.  14 

490 

855 

Annapee,  Wis 11 

205 

(Ship  Cand.) 

820 

Bayley's  Harbor,  Wi8..35 

240 

530 

White  Fish  Point 

.  40 

530 

800 

Death's  Door,  Wis 20 

260 

(Lake  Stiperior.) 

(To  (Ireen  Bay,  80  Miles.) 

400 

Marquette 

.130 

660 

785 

Washington  Harbor...  15 

275 

Kewci'ruiw  Point 

130 

790 

(To  EscANABA,  30  Miles.) 

0 

Duluth 

270 

1,060 

Note. — Thia  distanco  is  sbortenod  about  90  Miles,  by  passing  tlirougb  Portage  Lako  and  tbo 
Ship  Canal. 


181 


LAKE  miCniGAN. 


376 


400 


660 

790 

11,060 


GOODRICH'S    STEAMERS 

LeaTe  Ciiicaoo  for  Racinp,  Milwaukee,  etc.,  daily 
(Sundays  excepted,)  5)  A.  M. 

Grand  Haven,  Mu^egon,  etc.,  daily  (Sundays  ex- 
cepted,) 7  P.  M. 

St.  Joseph,  Tuesday,  Thura.  and  Saturday,  11  P.  M. 

Manistee  and  Ludingtun,  Tues.  and  Thurs.  9  A.  M. 

Green  Bay  and  intermediate  ports,  Tuesday  and 
Friday,  7  P.  M. 

Kewaunee  and  Ahnapoo,  Friday,  9  'A.  M.,  and 
Tuesday  and  Friday,  7  P.  M. 

Office  and  Docks,  foot  Michigan  Av.,  Chicago,  111. 


ENOELMANTSr 

TRANSPORTATION  COMPANY. 


BTEAllEiW  LEAVE 

68  West  Water  Street,  Milwaukee, 

DAILY,  >  For  Od.  Haven.  Whitehall,  Muskegon, 
9  P.  M.  j      Ludingtgn,  Manistee,  Pentwattr,  etc. 

DAILY, )  For  Grand  Haven,  Saginaw,  Detroit, 

9  P.  M.   I       AND  ALL  POINTS  KA8T. 

Tickets  to  Manistee,  etc.,  good  via  Gnind  Haven. 
ENQEI  MANN  TRANSPORTATION  CO. 


ROUTE  FROM  CHICAGO  TO  MACKINAC  AND  SATIT  STE.  MARIE. 

very  great ;  the  carrying  trade  being 
destined  to  increase  in  proportionate 
ratio  with  the  population  and  wealth 
piniring  into  this  favored  section  of 
the  Union. 

On  reaching  the  green  waters  of 
Lake  Michigan,  the  city  of  Chicago 
is  seen  stretching  along  the  shore 
for  four  or  five  miles,  presenting  a 
fine    appearance    from   the   deck   of  the 
steamer.     The  entrance  to  the  harbor  at 
the  bar  is  about  200  feet  wide.     The  bar 
has  from  ten  to  twelve  feet  water,  the 
lake  beiug  subject  to  about  two  feet  rise 
and  fall.     The  steamers  bound  for  Mil- 
waukee and  the  northern  ports   usually 
rup  along  the  west  shore  of  the  lake  with- 
in sight  of  land,  the  banks  rising  from 
thirty  to  fifty  feet  above  the  water. 

Lake  Michigan  is  about  seventy  miles 
average  width,  and  340  miles  iu  extent 
from  Michigan  City,  Ind.,  on  the  south,  to 
the  Strait  of  Mackinac  on  the  north;  it 
presents  a  great  expanse  of  water,  now 
traversed  by  steamers  and  other  vessels 
of  a  large  class,  running  to  the  Saiit  Ste. 
Marie  and  Lake  Superior ;  to  Collingwood 
and  Godericli,  Can. ;  to  Detroit,  Midi. ;  to 
Cleveland,  Oliio,  and  to  Bufl'alo,  N.  Y. 
From  Chicago  to  Buftalo  the  distance  is 
about  1,000  miles  by  water;  while  froni 


On  starting  from  the  steamboat  wharf 
Bear  the  mouth  of  the  Chicago  River,  the 
Marine  Hospital  and  depot  of  the  Illinois 
Central  Railroad  are  passed  on  the  rigiit, 
while  the  Lake  House  and  lumber-yards 
are  seen  on  the  left  or  north  side  of  the 
stream.  The  government  piers,  long 
wooden  structures,  afford  a  good  entrance 
to  the  harbor;  a  light-house  has  been 
constructed  on  the  outer  end  of  the  north 
pier,  to  guide  vessels  to  the  port. 

Tlie  basin  completed  by  the  Illinois 
Central  Railroad  to  facilitate  commerce  is 
a  substantial  work,  extending  southward 
for  nearly  half  a  mile.  It  affords  ample 
accommodation  for  loading  and  unloading 
▼es.sels,  and  transferring  the  freight  to 
and  from  the  railroad  cars. 

The  number  of  steamers,  propellers, 
and  sailing  vessels  annually  arriving  and 
departing  from  the  harbor  of  Chicago  is 


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132        ROUTE    FROM    CfllCAQO    TO    MACKII.'AC    AND    8AUT    8TE.    MARIB. 


Chicago  to  Superior  City,  at  tlio  head  of 
Lake  Superior,  or  Fond  du  Lac,  the  dis- 
tance is  about  the  same,  thus  affording 
two  excursions  of  1,000  miles  each,  over 
three  of  the  great  lakes  or  inland  seas  of 
America,  in  steamers  of  from  l,000to 
2,000  tons  burden.  During  the  summer 
and  early  autumn  months  the  waters  of 
this  lake  are  comparatively  calm,  attbrd- 
ing  safe  navigation.  But  late  in  the  year, 
and  during  the  \vintor  and  early  spring 
months,  the  navigation  of  this  and  the 
other  great  lakes  is  very  dangerous. 

Waukegax,  Lake  Co.,  111.,  3<;  miles 
north  of  Chicago,  is  handsomely  situated 
on  elevated  ground,  gradually  rising  to  50 
or  GO  feet  above  the  water.  Here  are 
two  piers,  a  light-house,  several  large 
storehouses,  and  a  neat  and  thriving  town 
containing  about  5,000  inhabitants,  six 
churches,  a  bank,  several  well-kept  hotels, 
thirty  stores,  and  two  steam-flouring 
mills. 

Kenosha,  Wis.,  52  miles  from  Chicago, 
is  elevated  30  or  40  feet  above  the  lake. 
Here  are  a  small  harbor,  a  liglit-house, 
storeliouses,  mills,  etc.  Tlie  town  has  a 
population  of  about  4,310  inhabitants, 
surrounded  by  a  tine  back  country.  Here 
is  a  good  hotel,  a  bank,  several  churclies, 
and  a  number  of  stores  and  manufactur- 
ing establishments  doing  a  large  anioimt 
of  business.  The  Kenosha  and  llockford 
Railroad,  7:5  miles,  connects  at  the  latter 
place  with  a  railroad  running  to  Madison, 
tlie  capital  of  the  iState,  and  also  to  the 
Mississippi  River. 

The  City  of  Racine,  Wis.,  02  miles  from 
Chicago  and  23  miles  south  of  Milwaukee, 
is  built  on  an  elevation  some  forty  or 
Qfty  feet  above  tlie  surface  of  the  lake. 
It  is  a  beautiful  and  flourishing  place. 
Here  are  a  ligl)t-house,  piers,  storeliouses, 
etc.,  situated  near  the  water,  while  the 
city  contains  some  fine  public  buildings 
tmd  private  residences.  The  population 
is  about  9,880,  and  is  rapidly  increasing. 
Uaciue  is  the  second  city  in  the  State  in 


commerce  and  population,  and  possossoa 
a  fine  harbor.  Here  are  located  the 
county  buildings,  fourteen  churclies,  seve- 
ral hotels,  Comji-ess  Hall  being  tlie largest: 
elevators,  warehouses,  and  numerous 
stores  of  different  kinds. 

The  hariue  and  Mississippi  Railroad  ex- 
tends from  tliis  place  to  the  Mississippi 
River  at  Savanna,  112  miles.  The  Chica- 
go and  Milwaukee  Railroad  also  runs 
through  the  town,  near  the  Lake  Shore. 


MILWAL'KEB      HARBOR. 

IVIilwaiikec,  "The  Cream  City," 
85  miles  from  Chicago,  by  railroad  and 
steamboat  route,  is  handsomely  situated 
on  rising  ground  on  both  .sides  of  tlie  Mil- 
waukee River,  at  its  entrance  into  Lake 
Michigan.  In  front  of  the  city  is  a  bay  or 
indentation  of  the  lake,  affording  a  good 
harbor,  except  in  strong  easterly  galea. 
The  harbor  is  now  being  improved,  and  will 
doubtless  be  rendered  secure  at  all  times 
of  the  season.  The  river  affords  an  ex- 
tensive water-power,  capable  of  giving 
motion  to  machinery  of  almost  any  re- 
quired amount.    The  city  is  built  upon 


V. 


i  ' 


TRIP  THROUGH  THE  LAKKS. 


188 


13 
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beautiful  slopes,  descending  toward  the 
river  and  lake.  It  lias  a  United  States 
Custom  House  and  Post-Ollico  building; 
a  court  house,  city  hall,  a  United  States 
land-oflico,  the  University  Institute,  a 
college  for  females,  three  academies,  three 
orphan  asylums,  forty-live  churches,  sev- 
end  well-kept  Iiotels,  the  Newhnll  Jhnise 
and  the  Wallcer  House  being  tlio  most 
frequented;  seven  banks,  six  insurance 
companies,  a  Chamber  of  Commerce,  ele- 
vators, extensive  ranges  of  stores,  and 
several  large  manufacturing  establish- 
ments. The  city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and 
well  supplied  with  good  water.  Its  ex- 
ports of  lumber,  agricultural  produce,  etc. 
are  immense,  giving  profitable  employment 
to  a  largo  number  of  steamers  and  other 
lake  craft,  running  to  difl'erent  ports  on 
the  Upper  Lakes,  Detroit,  Uuft'alo,  etc. 
The  growth  of  tliis  city  has  been  aston- 
isliiug ;  twenty  years  since  its  site  was  a 
wilderness;  now  it  contains  1870,  71,464 
inhabitants,  and  of  a  class  inferior  to  no 
section  of  the  Union  for  intelligence,  so- 
briety, and  industry. 

The  future  of  Milwaukee  it  is  hard  to 
predict;  here  are  centring  numerous  rail- 
roads finished  and  in  course  of  construc- 
tion, extending  south  to  Cliicago,  west  to 
tlie  Mississippi  River,  and  north  to  Lake 
Superior,  which,  in  connection  with  tlie 
Detroit  and  ililwaukee  Railroad,  termin- 
ating at  Grand  Haven,  85  miles  distant  by 
water,  and  the  lines  of  steamers  running 
to  this  port,  will  altogether  give  an  im- 
petus to  this  favored  city,  blessed  with  a 
good  climate  and  soil,  which  the  future 
alone  can  reveal. 

During  the  past  few  years  an  unusual 
numb  .r  of  fine  builduigs  have  been  erected, 
and  the  commerce  of  the  port  has  amount- 
ed to  $60,000,000.  The  bay  of  Milwaukee 
oflers  the  best  advantages  for  the  con- 
struction of  a  harbor  of  refuge  of  any 
point  on  Lake  Michigan.  The  city  has  ex- 
pended over  $100,000  in  the  construction 
t'f  a  harbor;  this   needs  extension  and 


completion,  which  will  no  doubt  bo 
effected. 

The  approacli  to  Milwaukee  harbor  V)y 
water  is  very  imposing,  lying  between 
two  Iioadlands  covered  witii  ricli  foliiige, 
and  dotted  with  residences  indicating 
comfort  and  refinement  not  to  be  exceed- 
ed on  the  banks  of  the  Hudson  or  any 
otiier  body  of  water  in  the  land.  This 
city,  no  doubt,  is  destined  to  become 
tiio  favored  residence  of  opulent  families, 
who  are  fond  of  congregating  in  favored 
localities. 

The  Granaries  of  Minnesota  anb 
Wisconsin. — The  La  Crosse  Democrat 
speaks  as  follows  of  the  great  strides  of 
agriculture  in  a  region  which  ten  years 
ago  was  a  wilderness.     It  says: 

"  Wo  begin  to  think  that  the  granarica 
of  Minnesota  and  Northwestern  Wiscon- 
sin will  never  give  out;  there  is  no  end 
to  the  amount,  judging  from  the  heavy 
loads  the  steamers  continually  land  at 
tlie  depot  of  the  La  Crosse  and  Milwaukee 
Railroad.  Where  does  it  all  come  from? 
is  the  frequent  inquiry  of  people.  We 
can  hardly  tell.  It  seems  impossible  that 
there  can  bo  much  more  left,  yet  steam- 
boat men  tell  us  tliat  the  grain  is  not 
near  all  hauled  to  the  shipping  points 
on  the  river.  *  What  will  tliis  country  be 
ten  years  hence,  at  this  rate?  Imagine 
the  amount  of  transportation  that  will  be- 
come necessary  to  carry  the  produce  of 
the  upper  country  to  market.  It  is  hard 
to  state  what  will  be  the  amount  of  ship- 
ments of  grain  tiiis  season  (1863),  but  it 
will  be  well  into  the  millions." 


;■ 


Railroads  running  from  Milwaukee. 

Detroit  and  Mihuaukee  (Grand  Haven 
to  Detroit,  189  miles),  connecting  with 
steamers  on  Lake  Michigan. 

La  Crosse  and  Milwaukee,  200  miles, 
connecting  with  steamers  on  the  Upper 
Mississippi. 


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134 


PnOM  CHICAGO  TO  MACKINAC  AND  8AUT  STB.  MABII!. 


Milwaukee  and  Prairie  du  Chien,  192 
miles,  connecting  with  steamers  on  the 
Mississippi  and  railroad  to  St.  Paul. 

Milwaukee  and  Iloricon,  93  miles. 

Milwaukee  and  Western,  71  miles. 

Milwaukee  and  Chicago,  85  miles;  also, 
thu  River  and  Lake  Shore  City  Railway, 
running  from  tlie  entrance  of  the  harbor 
to  ditlerent  parts  of  the  city. 

Port  Washington',  Ozaukee  Co.,  Wis., 
25  miles  north  of  Milwaukee,  is  a  nour- 
ishing place,  and  capital  of  tiio  county. 
Tlio  villago  contains,  besides  tiio  public 
buildings,  several  cliurches  and  hotels, 
twelve  .stores,  tlireo  mills,  an  iron  found- 
ry, two  breweries,  and  other  manufac- 
tories. The  population  is  about  2,500. 
Here  is  a  good  steamboat  laniling,  from 
which  large  quantities  of  produce  are  an- 
nually shipped  to  Chicago  and  other  lake 
p^rts. 

Sheboygan,  Wis.,  50  miles  north  of 
Milwaukee  and  IIJO  miles  from  Chicago, 
is  a  thriving  place,  containing  1870,  5,310 
inhabitants.  Here  are  seven  churciies, 
several  public-liouses  and  stores,  together 
with  a  light-iiouse  and  piers  ;  tiie  harbor 
being  improved  by  government  works. 
Large  quantities  of  lumber  and  agricul- 
tural products  are  shipped  from  tliis  port. 
The  country  in  tlie  inleriot  is  fast  set- 
tling with  agriculturists,  the  soil  and  cli- 
mate being  good.  A  railroad  nearly  com- 
pleted Tuns  from  this  place  to  FoND  DU 
Lao,  42  miles  west,  lying  at  the  head  of 
Lake  Winnebago. 

Manitouwoc,  Wis.,  70  miles  north  of 
Milwaukee  and  33  miles  east  from  Green 
Bay,  is  an  important  shipping  i)ort.  It 
contains  1870,  5,1G8  inhabitants;  five 
churches,  several  public-houses,  twelve 
stores,  besides  several  storehouses ;  three 
steam  saw-mills,  two  ship-yards,  light- 
house, and  pier.  Large  ([uantities  of  lum- 
ber are  annually  shipi)ed  from  this  port. 
The  harbor  is  being  improved  so  as  to  af- 
ford a  refuge  for  vessels  during  stormy 
weather. 


"  Manitouwoc  is  the  most  northern  of 
the  harbors  of  Lake  Michigan  improved 
by  the  United  States  Government.    It  de- 
rives additional  importance  from  the  fact 
that,  when  completed,  it  will  afford  the 
lirst  point  of  refuge  from  storms  for  ship- 
ping bound  from  any  of  the  other  great 
lakes  to  this,  or  to  the  most  southern  porta 
of  Lake  Miciiigan." 

Two  Rivers,  Wis.,  seven  miles  north 
from  Manitouwoc,  is  a  new  and  thriving 
place  at  the  entrance  of  the  conjoined 
streams  (fiom  which  the  place  takes  its 
name)  into  Lake  Michigan.  Two  piers 
are  here  erected,  one  on  each  side  of  the 
river;  also  a  ship-yard,  an  extensive 
leather  manufacturing  company,  chair  and 
pail  factory,  and  three  steam  saw-mills. 
The  village  contains  about  2,000  inhabi- 
tants. 

Kewauvee,  Wis.,  25  miles  north  of  Two 
Rivers  and  102  miles  from  Milwaukee,  ia 
a  small  shipping  town,  where  are  situated 
several  saw-mills  and  lumber  estabUsh- 
ments.  Green  Bay  is  situated  about  25 
miles  due  west  from  this  place. 

AiiNEEi'EE,  12  miles  north  of  Kewaunee, 
is  a  lumbering  village,  situated  at  the 
mouth  of  Ahneepeo,  containing  about 
1,000  inhabitants.  The  back  country  here 
assumes  a  wild  appearance,  the  forest 
trees  being  mostly  pine  and  hemlock, 

Gibkaltar,  or  Bailey's  Harbor,  is  a 
good  natural  port  of  refuge  for  sailing 
craft  when  overtaken  by  storms.  Here  is 
a  settlement  of  some  400  or  600  inhabi- 
tants, mostly  being  engaged  in  lishiug  and 
lumbering. 

Port  des  Morts  or  Death's  Door,  the 
entrance  to  Green  Bay,  is  passed  20  miles 
north  of  Bailey's  Harbor,  Detroit  Island 
lying  to  tlie  northward. 

POTTOWATOMEE,  or  WASHINGTON  ISL- 
AND, is  a  fine  body  of  land  attached  to 
the  State  of  Michigan  ;  also.  Rock  Island, 
situated  a  short  distance  to  the  north. 
{Sec  route  to  Green  Bay,  die). 


1 


ISL- 

ed  to 
sland, 
lorth. 


FROM  CHICAGO  TO  MACKINAC. 


136 


On  leaving  Two  Rivera,  the  steamers 

!)a8sing  through  the  Straits  usually  run 
or  the  Munitou  Islands,  Mich.,  a  dis- 
tance of  about  100  miles.  Soon  after  the 
last  vestige  of  land  sinks  below  the  hori- 
zon on  the  west  shore,  the  vision  catches 
the  dim  outline  of  coast  on  the  east  or 
Michigan  shore  at  Point  aux  Bee  Scies, 
which  is  about  30  miles  south  of  the  liig 
Manitou  Island.  From  this  point,  pass- 
ing northward  by  Sleeping  Bear  Point,  a 
singular  shaped  headland  looms  up  to 
the  view. 

Little,  or  South  Manitou  Island, 
260  miles  from  Chicago,  and  110  miles 
from  Mackinac,  lies  on  the  Michigan 
side  of  the  lake,  and  is  the  first  island 
encountered  on  proceeding  northward 
from  Chicago.  It  rises  abruptly  on  the 
west  shore  2  or  300  feet  from  the  water's 
edge,  sloping  toward  the  east  shore,  on 
which  is  a  light-house  and  a  fine  harbor. 
Here  steamers  stop  for  wood.  Bio  or 
North  Manitou  is  nearly  twice  as 
large  as  the  former  island,  and  contains 
about  14,000  acres  of  land.  Both  islands 
are  settled  by  a  few  families,  whose  prin- 
cipal occupation  is  fishing  and  cutting 
wood  for  steamers  and  sailing  vessels. 

Fox  Islands,  60  miles  north  from 
South  Manitou,  consist  of  three  small 
islands  lying  near  the  middle  of  Lake 
Michigan,  which  is  here  about  60  miles 
wide.  On  the  west  is  the  entrance  to 
Green  Bay,  on  the  east  is  the  entrance  to 
Grand  Traverse  Bay,  and  immediately 
to  the  north  is  the  entrance  to  little 
Traverse  Bay. 

Great  and  Little  Beaver  Islands, 
lying  about  midway  between  the  Mani- 
tou Islands  and  Mackinac,  are  large  and 
fertile  bodies  of  land,  formerly  occupied 
by  Mormons,  who  had  here  their  most 
eastern  settlement. 

Garden  and  Hog  Islands  are  next 
passed    before  reaching  the  Strait  of 


Mackinac,  which,  opposite  old  Fort 
Mackinac,  is  al)out  six  miles  in  width. 

Straits  op  Mackinac. — The  Straits 
of  Mackinac,  where  stands  Mackinac 
City  on  the  site  of  Old  Fort  Mackinac, 
have  been  the  theatre  of  interesting  and 
exciting  events  from  the  earliest  times 
down  to  the  present.  While  the  whole 
southern  portion  of  Michigan  was  yet  a 
wilderness  which  no  white  man  had  ever 
penetrated,  Mackinac  was  the  home  of 
the  missionary,  the  trader  and  the  war- 
rior, and  the  centre  of  a  valuable  and 
important  traffic  with  the  Indians  of  the 
Northwest. 

These  are  significant  facts.  The  early 
French  Jesuits  and  traders  fixed  upon 
Mackinac  as  a  basis  of  their  missionary 
and  commercial  operations,  not  by  mere 
chance,  but  because  of  its  natural  advan« 
tages.  Nature  alone  has  given  it  its  ad- 
vantages and  made  it  what  it  has  been 
in  history.  For  a  series  of  years,  how- 
ever, its  natural  seemed  to  be  overlooked, 
and  the  surging  wave  of  population  rolled 
across  southern  Michigan  and  so  on  to 
the  westward.  Yet  it  has  never  been 
quite  forgotten,  and  at  the  present  time 
we  believe  it  to  be  rapidly  rising  into 
favor,  owing  to  the  fact  that  it  is  apprecia- 
ted as  a  railroad  terminus,  or  connection 
with  lines  of  travel  across  the  continent. 

Grosse  Isle  St.  Martin  and  Isle  St. 
Martin  lie  within  the  waters  of  the  Strait, 
eight  or  ten  miles  north  of  the  island  of 
Mackinac.  In  the  neighborhood  of  these 
diflTerent  islands  are  tlie  favorite  fishing- 
grounds  both  of  the  Indian  and  the  "pale 
face." 

Mackinac  City,  lying  on  the  Straits 
of  Mackinac,  opposite  point  St.  Ignace, 
on  the  north  main  shore,  is  an  embryo 
settlement  at  the  most  northern  point  of 
the  Lower  Peninsula  of  Michigan  and 
where  formerly  stood  old  Fort  Mackinac 
of  Indian  fame. 


,:t 


iff 


18G 


FROM    CHICAGO    TO    MAOKINAO   AMD    SAUT   STE.    MARIS. 


l*f  SK'klnac— Thi«  important  town 
andlbrtreaHi88ituatedinN.lat.45°54',W. 
ion.  81'^  30'  from  Greenwich,  being  .seven 
dogroua  thirty  minutes  west  from  Waah- 
iuf^ton.  It  is  350  miles  north  from  Chica- 
jro,  100  milt38  south  of  Saut  Sto.  Miixie  by 
the  Htoamboat  route,  and  about  300  miles 
northwest  from  Detroit.  fhrt  Mackinac, 
garrisoned  by  U.  States  troops,  stands  on 
elevated  ground,  about  200  foot  above  the 
water,  overlooking  tho  pioturcs'iuo  town 
and  harbor  below.  In  tho  roar,  about 
half  a  mile  distimt  stand  the  r  uins  of  old 
Fort  irolrnes,  situated  on  tho  hif^hest  point 
of  land,  at  an  elevation  of  320  feet  above 
the  water,  affording  an  extensive  view. 

Tho  town  contains  two  churches,  live 
hotels,  ten  or  twelve  stores,  iOO  dwoUing- 
hcuse.s,  and  about  700  inhabitants.  Tho 
climate  is  remarkably  healthy  and  deligiit- 
ful  during  tho  summer  months,  wlien  tJiis 
favored  retreat  is  usually  thronged  with 
visitors  from  different  parts  of  tlio  Union, 
while  tho  Indian  warriors,  their  squaws  and 
their  children,  are  seen  lingering  around 
this  their  favorite  island  and  lisiiing-ground. 
Tho  Island  of  Ma.ckin.vc,  lying  in  tho 
Strait  of  Mackinac,  is  about  three  miles 
long  and  two  miles  wide.  It  contains 
many  deeply  interesting  points  of  attrac- 
tion in  addition  to  the  village  and  fortress ; 
the  prmcipal  natural  curiosities  aro  known 
as  tho  Arched  Rock,  Sugar  Loaf,  Lover's 
Leap,  Devil's  Kitchen,  Robinson's  Folly, 
and  other  objects  of  interest  well  worthy 


the  attention  of  the  tourist.  Tho  .1/t.Mton 
JIoiMe  and  Inlatid  Iloiise  aro  tho  principal 
hotels,  while  there  are  several  otht.T  good 
public-houses  for  tho  accommodation  of 
visitors. 

IsiiAS'D  OP  Mackinac. — Tho  view  given 
reprosonts  tho  Island,  approaching  from 
the  eastward.    "  A  cliff  of  limestone,  white 
and  woathor-beaton,  with  a  narrow  allu- 
vial plain  skirting  its  base,   is  tho  lirst 
thing  which  commands  attention;"   but, 
on  nearing  tho  harbor,  tho   village  (2), 
with  its  many  picturesque  dwellings,  and 
the  fortress  (3),  perched  near  tiie  summit 
of  tho  Island,  are  gazed  at  with  wonder 
and  deliglit.     Tho  promontory  on  tho  left 
is  called  the  "Lover's  Leap"  (1),  skirted 
by    a  pebbly    beach,   extending    to  tho 
village.     On  tho  riglit  is  seen  a  bold  rocky 
precipice,    called   "  liobinsorCs  Fulli/^  (5), 
while  in  tho  same  direction  is  a  singular 
peak  of  nature  called  tho  "  Swjar  Loaf.''' 
Still  farther  onward,  tho    "  Arched  liock,'* 
and  other  interesting  siglits,  meet  tho  eye 
of  tlie  explorer,  affording  pleasure  and  do- 
light,  particularly  to  the  scientific  traveller 
and  lover  of   nature.      On   tho    highest 
ground,  elevated  320  feet  above  the  waters 
of  tho  Strait,  is  tho  signal  station  (4),  situ- 
ated near  the  ruins  of  olii  Fort  Holmes. 

The  settlement  of  this  Island  was  com- 
menced in  1764.  In  1793  it  was  surren- 
dered to  the  American  government ;  taken 
by  the  British  in  1812;  but  restored  by 
the  treaty  of  Ghent,  signed  in  Nov.,  1814 


n': 


»]i 


FORT  MAOBIINAC,  Mackinao  County,  Mloh. 


Afl  thia  important  Military  Post  is 
attracting  tlie  attention  of  the  Govern- 
ment, as  well  as  pleaHiire-seekerH,  where 
is  to  he  reaerveu  a  National  Park,  we 
inKert  a  late  report  of  the  AHsistant  Sur- 
geon of  the  United  States  Army. 

FouT  Mackinac  Ih  aitiiated  on  a 
bluH'  on  the  Bouth-eastern  portion  of 
the  island  of  Mackinac,  near  the  Straits 
of  the  same  name,  which  connect  Lakes 
Huron  and  Michigan,  latitude  45°  51' 
north,  longitude  84°  iV  west;  height 
above  the  the  lake,  155  feet;  above  the 
sea,  728  feet.  The  nearest  post  is  Fort 
Brady,  GO  miles  to  the  nortiieaat.  The 
island  was  first  occupied  by  the  p]nglish 
as  a  military  j)ost,  soon  after  the  des- 
truction of  old  Fort  Mackinac,  (8  miles 
southwest,)  and  its  garrison  on  the 
mainland  by  the  French  in  176.'},  on 
account  of  its  security  from  attacks  from 
Indians.  About  1795,  it  was  turned 
over  to  the  United  States  Government 
by  treaty,  as  a  part  of  the  results  of  the 
revolutionary  war,  but  in  1812,  (after 
war  was  declared)  it  was  again  occupied 
by  the  English.  The  island  is  about 
nine  miles  in  circumference,  and  rises 
on  its  eastern  and  southern  shore  in 
abrupt  rocky  clitls,  the  highest  point 
being  250  feet  above  the  water.  Fort 
Mackinac  being  situated  on  the  south- 
side,  near  the  lake,  situated  on  the 
highest  point  of  the  is:  and,  and  about 
half  a  mile  to  the  rear  of  the  fortress 
is  "  Fort  Holmes,"  which  was  built  by 
the  English  during  the  occupancy  of 
the  island  in  1812-'13-'I4,  and  called 
by  them  "  Fort  George."  It  was  upon 
this  point  that  the  United  States  forces 
were  making  an  attack  when  Major 
Holmes,  of  the  United  States  army, 


was  killed,  which  circumstance  subse- 
quently gave  the  present  name  to  the 
work. 

Geologically  tlie  island  is  made  up 
of  the  Onondaga  salt  group  of  the  upper 
Silurian  system,  and  the  upper  Heuler- 
berg  limestone  group  of  the  Devonian 
System.  The  former  is  25  feet  in  thick- 
ness, forming  the  base,  and  the  latter 
is  about  275  feet  in  depth,  forming  the 
body  and  cap.  The  face  of  the  south 
end  of  the  island  is  most  plainly  ter- 
raced. Beginning  with  the  top  of  Fort 
Holmes,  more  than  200  feet  above  the 
present  level  of  the  lake,  there  are 
four  distinctly  marked  tables  or  terraces 
before  we  come  to  the  water,  each 
bearing  the  undulating  line  of  a(pieous 
formation.  Another  proof  of  the  ex- 
istence of  wave  action,  which  must  have 
been  in  process  for  a  long  period  of 
time,  is  the  fact  tliat  from  the  base  of 
Fort  Holmes  to  the  present  beach,  worn, 
rounded  pebbles,  similar  to  those  on 
the  beach,  are  found  upon  digging  two 
or  three  feet  into  the  earth  at  any  point 
on  the  line  indicated ;  all  arranged  and 
sorted  according  to  size,  just  as  they 
,  are  on  the  beach  at  the  present  time. 
j  The  existence  of  the  island  is  therefore 
1  evidently  due  to  no  sudden  uplift,  but 
to  the  gradual  subsidence  of  the  waters 
i  of  the  lakes,  consuming  thousands  of 
years  of  time. 

I  The  timber  on  the  island  is  mostly 
I  small,  probably  owing  to  its  having  been 
:  cut  down  at  not  a  very  remote  period. 
!  It  is  composed  of  beach,  maple,  oak, 
j  and  poplar,  principally,  with  a  liberal 
i  supply  of  the  coniferAe,  viz. : — pine, 
spruce,  hemlock,  cedar,  tamarack,  &c. 

The  reservation  contains  a  little  over 

137 


':iijn 


:  ii 


f 


m 


I  ,  -• 


m 


138 


A  TRIP  THROUGH  THE  LAKES. 


two  square  miles.  The  surface  is  regu- 
lar, but  there  is  very  little  soil  cov- 
ering the  underlying  rock.  The  climaf.e 
is  agreeable,  the  presf^nce  of  a  large 
body  of  water  preventing  extreraes  of 
temperature.  The  extremes  are  9° 
Fahr.,  and  83°  Fahr.,  the  average  about 
40°  Fahr. 

The  water  supply  for  the  fort  is  from 
the  lake,  by  water  caits,  and  from 
cisterns.  The  natural  drainage  is  good, 
and  is  the  only  form  in  use.  The  gen- 
eral sanitary  condition  of  the  post  is 
good  and  there  are  no  prevaling  diseases. 


Cheboygan,  lying  18  miles  south- 
east of  the  Island  of  Mackinac,  on  the 
lower  Peninsula  of  Michigan,  is  a 
flourishing  commercial  town,  situated 
on  Duncan  Bay  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Cheboygan  River.  It  is  attracting  the 
attention  of  business  men  and  plea.sure- 
Beekers.  Six  miles  in  the  interior  is 
Mullet's  Lake,  some  12  miles  in  length 
by  (5  in  breadth.  Still  further  back  is 
Burt  Lake,  nearly  as  large,  also  Che- 
boygan Lake  and  other  lakes  of  smaller 
dimensions,  abounding  in  fish  and  wild 
game  of  different  kinds,  affording  sports- 
men the  largest  scope  for  enjoyment. 
The  lakes  and  several  of  the  streams 
are  navigable  for  a  small  class  of 
steamers. 

Cheboygan  has  a  popnlatinn  of  about 
two  thousand,  2  churches,  several  good 
hotels,  12  or  15  stores,  grist  mill,  and 
several  large  saw  mills.    No  more  de- 


sirable or  satisfactory  plea.sure-trip  could 
be  made  than  to  this  place  and  up  the 
beautiful  chain  of  lakes  and  rivers  here 
entering  into  Lake  Huron. 


The  time  is  not  distant  when  the 
lovely  Island  of  Mackinac  with  its 
National  Park,  will  be  the  centre  for 
the  congregation  of  fashion  and  refine- 
ment, from  whence  pleasure  boats  and 
steamers  will  run  to  all  the  lovely  and 
charming  resorts  in  and  about  the  Straits 
of  Mackinac;  also  to  the  Saut  Ste. 
Marie,  passing  through  the  lovely  St. 
Mary's  River,  with  its  lakes  and  rapids, 
where  trouta  and  white  fish  abound. 


"  Beauteous  Isle  /  I  sing  of  thee, 
Mackinac,  my  Mackinac. 

Thy  lake-bound  shores  I  love  to  see, 
Mackinac,  my  Mackinac. 

From  Arch  Rock's  bright  and  shelving 
steep 

To  western  cliffs  and  Lover's  Leap, 

Where  memories  of  the  lost  one  sleep, 
Mackinac,  my  Mackinac. 

"Thy  Northern  shore-trod  British  foe, 

Mackinac,  my  Mackinac. 
That  day  saw  gallant  Holmes  laid  low, 

Mackinac,  my  Mackinac. 
Now  freedom's  flag  above  thee  waves. 
And  guards  the  rest  of  fallen  braves, 
Their  requiem  sung  by  Huron's  waves, 

Mackinac,  my  Mackinac." 


^nir 


(  4  :    * 


TRIP    THROUGH    THE    LAKES. 


139 


The  Ijover's  Li«ap. — Mackivac 
Island. — Tiio  huge  rock  called  the  "  Lov- 
er's Leap,"  is  situated  about  one  mile  west 
of  the  village  of  Mackinac.  It  !•;  a  high 
perjK'ndicuIar  bluff,  150  to  200  ffct  in 
lieight,  rising  boldly  from  the  slioro  uf  the 
Lake.  A  solitary  pine-tree  formerly 
stood  upon  its  brow,  which  some  Vandal 
has  cut  down. 

Long  before  the  pale  faces  profaned  this 
island  liomeof  the  Genii,  Me-che-ne-niork- 
e-uung-o-qua,  a  3'oung  Ojibway  girl  just 
maturing  into  womanhood,  often  wander- 
ed there,  and  gazed  from  its  dizzy  heiglits 
and  witnessed  tiie  receding  canoes  of  the 
largo  war  parties  of  the  combined  bauds 
of  the  Ojibways  and  Ottawas,  speeding 
South,  seeking  for  fame  and  scalps. 

It  was  there  she  often  sat,  mused,  and 
hummed  tlie  songs  Ge-niw-e-gwon  loved; 
this  spot  was  endeared  to  her.  for  it  was 
there  that  she  and  Ge-niw-e-gwon  liist 
met  and  exchanged  words  of  love,  and 
found  an  atlinity  of  souls  or  spirits  exist- 
ing between  tliem.  It  was  there  she  often 
sat  and  sang  the  Ojibway  love  song — 

"  Mons-c-do-ffwain,  in-de-nnin-duin, 
Mi)ii:r-c-il()-j.'w;iiii,  in-(lu-ii!ii!i-<luiii ; 
\V:iiii-sliunu'-isli-\vi'(ii,  lu'on-c-iiio-shnno, 
■\V!iiii-sliiirifr-ish-wci'n,  nefii-f-u\o-»lmne, 
A-ni'i'-wiiu-\Viiii-.siiu-l)<)-ii-zo<le, 
A -nee-w  uu- wuu-»uu-bo-u-zoile." 

I  give  but  one  verse,  which  may  be 
translated  as  follows : 

a  loon,  I  tliouL'ht  WHS  loomlnpr, 
A  loon,  1  thoutrht  wus  looming; 
V,'Uv\  it  is  111',  my  lover, 
Wlivl  it  iislu',  my  Iovit. 
llis'liudillo,  in  tlu- waters  L'lpiiminpr, 
Ills  iciddle  in  the  waters  gleaming'. 

From  this  blufl'  she  often  watched  and 
listened  for  the  return  of  the  war  parties, 
for  amongst  them  she  knew  was  Ge  niw  -e- 
gwon ;  his  head  decorated  with  war-caglo 
plumes,  which  none  but  a  brave  could 
sport.  Tlie  west  wind  often  wafted  far 
in  advance  the  shouts  of  victory  and 
death,  as  tliey  shouted  and  sang  upon 
Iwaving  Pe-quot-e-uoug  (old  Mackinac),  to 


make  the  traverse  to  the  Spirit,  or  Fairie 
Island. 

One  season,  when  the  war  jiarty  re- 
turned, siie  could  not  distinguish  his  fa- 
miliar and  loved  war-shout.  Her  thinking 
spirit,  or  soul  (presentiment)  told  her  that 
lie  had  g(jne  to  tiie  Spirit  Land  of  the 
west.  It  was  so,  an  enemy's  arrow  had 
l)iej-ced  iiis  breast,  and  after  his  body 
was  placed  leaning  against  a  tree,  his  face 
fronting  his  enemies  ho  died;  but  ere  he 
died  lie  wished  the  mourning  warriors  to 
remember  him  to  the  sweet  maid  of  his 
heart.  Thus  he  died  far  away  from  home 
and  the  fiiends  he  loved. 

Me-cae-ne-mook-e-nung-o-qua's  heart 
hushed  its  boatings,  and  all  the  warm 
emoti(ms  of  that  heart  were  cliilled  and 
dead.  Tiie  moving,  living  spirit  or  soul 
of  her  beloved  Ge-niw-e-gwon  she  witnes- 
.sed,  continually  beckoning  her  to  follow 
liim  to  the  happy  hunting  grounds  of 
spirits  in  the  west — he  appeared  to  her  in 
human  shape,  but  was  invisible  to  others 
cf  his  tribe. 

One  morning  her  body  was  found  man- 
gled at  tlie  foot  of  tlie  bluff.  The  soul  had 
thrown  aside  its  covering  of  earth,  and 
had  gone  to  join  tlie  spirit  of  her  beloved 
Ge-niw-e-gwon,  to  travel  together  to  the 
land  of  s|>irit.s  realizing  tiie  glories  and 
bliss  of  a  future,  eternal  existence. 

Years,  .tc, 
Wm.  M.  J  *****  ♦ 


ALTITUDE  OF   VARIOUS    POINTS  ON 
OF   MACKINAC. 

LocalitU,.  L,kf/;Z.„. 

Ijiko  Huron (HK)  fe« t. 

Fort  Miukiiiae       IN)    " 

Old  Fort    HoI'MOS «1.5    " 

Kol>inson's  Folly UH    " 

Clilmiiev  Uoek lai    " 

Top  of  .\  relied  Uoek 140    " 

Lovers  Leaj 14S    ^ 

Summit  of  Siitrar  Loaf. . .    .  2s4    " 

I'rineiiial  IMateaiiof  .Miiek- I  ..^    „ 

Inae  Island ( 

U|)luT  I'lateiiu 800    » 

LiiC'loelie  Moiiiitc'        >rth  )  .  .j.^^  u 

Bide  Lake  Uurou,  „.  W.  f  ^''"" 


ISLAND 

Above 

the 

Sea. 

.')74  leut 

7J4 

b« 

8M» 

kk 

-02 

ii 

-o.^ 

44 

714 

i« 

■19 

4t 

858 

ti 

784 

ti 

874 

Ik 

1,774 

II 

iU 


i 


140 


FROM    CHICAGO    TO    MACKINAC    AND    SALT    8TE.    MARIE. 


I     * 


The  whole  Island  of  Mackinac  is  deeply 
ink'restiug  to  ti)o  scientific  explorer,  as 
well  as  to  the  seeker  of  health  and  pleas- 
ure. The  following  extract,  illustrated  by 
an  engraving,  is  copied  from  "Foster 
and  Whitney's  Geological  ReporV  of  that 
region : 

"As  particular  examples  of  denuding 

action  on  the  island,  we  would  mention 

the  'Arched  Rock'  and  the  'Sugar  Loaf 

Tbo  former,  situated  on  the  eastern  shore, 

is  a  feature  of  great  interest.     Tlie  cliff's 

hero  attain  a  height  of  nearly  one  hundred 

feet,  while  at  the  base  are  strewn  numerous 

fragments  which  have  fallen  from  above. 

The  ArclLfd  Ruck  has  been  excavated  in 

a  projecting  angle  of  the  limestone  cliff, 

and  the  top  of  the  span  is  about  ninety 

fi^et  above  the  lake-level,  surmounted  by 

about  ten  feet  of  rock.     At  the  base  of  a 

projecting  angle,  which  rises  up  like  a 

buttress,  there  Is  a  small  opening,  through 

whieli  an  explorer  may  pass  to  the  main 

arch,   where,  after  clambering  over  the 

steep  slope  of  debris  and  the  projecting 

edges  of  the  strata,  ho  reaches  the  brow 

of  the  cliff. 

"  The  beds  forming  the  summit  of  the 
arch  arc  cut  off  from  direct  connection 
with  the  main  rock  by  a  narrow  gorge  of 
no  great  depth.  The  portion  supporting 
the  arch  on  the  north  side,  and  tlie  curve 
of  the  arch  itself,  are  comparatively  fra- 
gile, and  cannot,  for  a  long  [Mjriod,  resist 
the  action  of  rains  and  frosts,  which,  in 
this  latitude,  and  on  a  rock  thus  consti- 
tuted, produce  great  ravages  every  season. 
The  arch,  which  on  one  side  now  con- 
nects this  abutment  with  the  main  cliff, 
will  soon  be  destroyed,  as  well  as  the 
abutment  itself,  and  tho  whole  be  precipi- 
tated into  the  lake. 

"  It  is  evident  that  the  denuding  action 
reducing  such  an  opening,  with  other 
attendant  phenomena,  could  only  have 
operated  while  near  tho  levMJ  of  a  large 
body  of  water  like  the  great  lake  itself; 
and  we  tind  a  striking  similarity  between 


the  denuding  action  of  the  water  here  in 
time  past,  and  the  same  action  as  new 
manifested  in  the  range  of  the  Pirtiired 
Rocks  on  tho  shores  of  Lake  Superior. 
As  an  interesting  point  in  the  scenery  of 
this  island,  tho  Arched  Rock  attracts 
much  attention,  and  in  every  respect  is 
worthy  of  examination."  (See  Engraring.) 

Other  picturea(iu''  objects  of  great  in- 
terest, besides  those  enumerated  above, 
occur  at  every  turn  on  roving  about  this 
enchanting  island,  where  the  pure,  bra- 
cing air  and'  clear  waters  afford  a  plea- 
surable sensation,  difficult  to  bo  described 
unless  visited  and  enjoyed. 

The  bathing  in  the  pure  waters  of  tho 
Strait  at  this  place  is  truly  delightful, 
affbrdiiig  health  and  vigor  to  the  human 
franco. 


The  I»ilnn<l  of  lUnckiiiac. 


ROMAKTTC  AM)  PICTURESQUE  -VPPEARANCB 

OF  THE  Island  and  Surrounding 
Country — Its  Purity  of  At.\I(^si'iierb 
— A  Moonlight  E.xc«rsiox,  &c.,  &c. 

"From  wliDse  rocky  turrots  battli'i)  high, 

Prospect  immense  siiri'iul  out  on  all  si(lc5  round; 

Lost  now  between  tlie  Welkin  anil  the  main, 

Now  walled  with  hills  that  slept  ahove  the  storm, 

Most  rtts  such  a  place  for  mushi};  men ; 

Happiest,  sometimes,  when  musing  without  aim." 

[I'OI.LOK. 

In  this  Northern  region.  Nature  has  at 
last  fully  resumed  her  green  dress.  Flow- 
ers wild,  but  still  beautiful,  bloom  and 
disappear  in  succession.  Birds  of  various 
hues  liavo  returned  to  our  groves,  and 
welcome  us  as  we  trace  these  shady  walks. 
"  In  all  my  wand'rings  round  t'lis  world 
of  care,"  I  have  found  no  place  wherein 
tho  climate,  throughout  the  sununer  sea- 
son, seems  to  exercise  on  the  human  con 
stitution  a  more  benelicial  intlueuce  than 
on  this  Island.  In  other  parts  of  this 
country  and  in  Eiiroi)e,  the  places  of  AViori 
are  beautiful,  indeed;  but  a  certain  op- 
pressiveness there  at  times  pervades  the 


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:         •  •.     .S.N)  \.V  M     rii'M''    i'.   ■■   ': 

(■        1         ■    .•  !  ■  jar  "r   .\r.M.'-'ii>:i  ^. 

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AbchkD  Uot.k. — Maeklnaa 


TRIP    TIIUOUOII    THE    LAKES. 


141 


air,  that  a  person  even  with  tho  best 

health  in  the  world,  feels  a  lassitude  creep- 
ing through  his  frame.     Here,  wo  seldom, 

if  ever,  experience  such  a  feeling  from  this 
cause.  For  the  western  breeze  oven  in 
tho  hottest  days  passing  over  this  island, 
keeps  tlieair  cool,  and,  especially  if  proper 
e.verciso  bo  tai<en  by  wall<ing  or  riding, 

no  feels  a  bracing  up,  a  certain  buoyancy 
of  spirits  that  is  truly  astonisiiing. 

Yo  inhabitants  of  warm  latitudes,  who 
pant  in  cities  for  a  breath  of  cool  air,  fiy 
to  tiiis  isle  for  comfort.  Yo  invalid,  tliis 
is  the  place  in  wliich  to  renovate  your 
shattered  constitution.  The  lovers  of 
beautiful  scenery  or  tho  curious  in  nature, 
and  the  artist,  whose  magic  pencil  de- 
lights to  trace  nature's  lineaments,  need 
not  sigli  for  the  sunny  clime  of  Italy  for 
subjects  on  which  to  feed  tho  taste  and 
imagination. 

This  island  ia  intersected  by  fine  car- 
riage roads,  shaded  here  and  there  by  a 
young  growth  of  beech,  ma[»le,  and  other 
trees.  On  tho  liighest  ])art  of  it.  abo'.it 
300  feet,  are  tho  ruins  of  Old  Fort  Holmes. 
From  this  point  of  elevation,  tho  scenery 
around  is  ex  tensive  and  beautiful.  Tnsiglit, 
are  some  localities  connected  wilii  ''  the 
tales  of  the  times  of  old."  i)0th  of  the  sav- 
age and  tiio  civilized.  Looking  westward- 
h ,  and  at  tlie  distance  of  about  four  miles 
across  an  ann  of  Lake  Huron,  is  Point  St. 
Ignace,  wliieii  is  the  southernmost  point 
of  land,  of  tiio  greater  portion  of  the  Up- 
per Peninsula.  Immediately  south  of  it 
are  tlic  "  Straits  of  Mackinac,"  which  sep- 
aratuig  tho  Northern  and  Southern  Penin- 
sulas from  each  other,  are  about  ibur 
miles  wide.  On  tlie  south  shore,  may  still 
be  seen  traces  of  ( )ld  Fort  Mackinac,  wiiich 
is  well  known  in  history  as  having  been 
destroyed  by  Indians,  in  17C3,  at  the  in- 
stigation of  Pontiac,  an  Indian  Chief. 
Turning  our  gazo  southeastwardly,  we  .see 
the  picturesque  "  Round  Island,"  as  it 
were  at  our  feet.  And  further  on,  is 
"lioid-Blanc  Island,"     stretching    away 


with  its  wnding  shores,  far  into  Laice 
Huron.  Look  to  tiio  east,  and  thero 
.stands  this  inland  sea,  apparently  "  bound- 
lessand(leei),"and  "pure as th'  expanseof 
iioaven."  Directly  iiortii  from  our  jilace 
of  observation,  are  tho  "Islands  of  St. 
Martin;"  while  beyond  them  in  tlio  Bay, 
are  two  largo  rivers — the  Pine,  and  Carp 
Rivers.  And  lastly,  casting  our  eyes  to- 
wards the  northwest,  we  see  on  tlie  main 
land  the  two  "Sitting  Rabbits;"  being 
two  singular  looking  liills  or  rocks,  and  so 
called  by  the  Indians  from  .some  resem- 
blance at  a  distance  to  rabbits  in  a  sitting 
posture.  As  a  whole,  this  scenery  pre- 
sents, hills,  jioints  of  land  jutting  into  the 
lake,  and  "straits,"  bays,  and  islands. 
Here,  the  lake  contracts  itself  into  narrow 
channels,  or  strait.s,  wliicli  at  times  are 
whitened  by  numerous  sails  of  commerce; 
and  tliere,  it  spreads  itself  away  as  far  as 
tho  eye  can  reacli.  And,  while  contem- 
plating this  scene,  perliaps  a  dark  column 
of  smoke,  like  tlie  Genii  in  the  Arabian 
Tales,  may  be  seen  rising  slowly  out  of 
tho  bosom  of  Lake  Huron,  announcing 
tlie  ajiproach  of  tho  (Jenii  of  modern  days, 
the  Steamboat!  Let  ua  descend  to  the 
shore. 

It  is  evening!  Tho  sun,  with  all  his 
glory  has  disappeared  in  tlio  west  ;  but 
tlie  moon  sits  in  turn  the  arbitress  of 
heaven.     And  now — 

"  Hdw  swoet  flic  moDtilipht  sleeps  upon  this  bnnk; 
Here  will  wi'  sit.  iiiiii  Ii't  tlu!  sniinds  of  iiiii.«i<! 
Oivi'p  in  our  ours;  .soft  stillness iiml  tlic  nitflit, 
Becomes  the  tuuelu-s  of  sweet  harmony."' 

Such  a  moonlight  night  I  oncoonjoyod. 
The  hum  of  day-life  had  gradually  subsid- 
ed, and  there  was  naught  to  disturb  the 
stillness  of  the  hour,  save  tho  occosir.ial 
laughter  of  those  who  lingered  out  in  the 
open  air.  In  the  direction  of  tho  moon, 
and  on  the  Lake  before  mo,  there  was  a 
broad  road  of  light  trembling  upon  its 
bosom.  A  few  moments  more,  two  small 
boats  with  sails  up  to  catch  the  gentle 
breeze,  were  seen  passing  and  re-passing 


142 


FROM    CHICAGO    TO    MACKINAC    AND    SAUT    STB.    MARIE. 


this  broad  road  of  light.     Then  the  vocal  j 
Eorig  was  raised  on  tlie   waters,  and  wo-  \ 
num'a  voice  was  borne  on  moonlight  beam  , 
to  the  listening  ear  in  the  remotest  sliades.  | 
The  voices  became  clearer  and  stronger 
as   tlie  boats  approached   nearer;    then, 
again,  dying  away  in  tlie  distance,  seemed 
to  bo  merged  with  the  mellow  rays  of  the 
moon.     lint  let  us  leave  poetry  and  fancy 
aside,  and  come  to  matters  of  fact,   mat- 
ters of  accommodation,  prepared  for  tliose 
wlio  may  favor  our  island  with  their  visits 
this  summer. 

There  are  several  large  hotels,  with  at- 
tentive hosts,  ever  reatly  to  contribute  to- 
wards tlie  comforts  of  their  visitors.  Walk- 
ing, riding,  (ishing,  siiooting,  and  sailing 
can  1)0  here  pursued  with  great  benetit  to 
health.  We  have  billiard-rooms  and  bowl- 
ing-alleys; in  the  stores  are  found  Indian 
curiosities;  and,  perhaps,  tiio  Indians 
themselves,  w^ho  resort  to  this  island  on 
business,  may  be  curiosities  to  those  who 
have  never  seen  them ;  thoy  are  the  true 
"native  Americans,"  the  citizetis  of  this 
North  American  Uepublie. 

Round  Island  is  a  small  body  of  land 
lying  a  short  distance  southeast  of  Macki- 
nac, while  Bois  Blanc  Island  is  a  large 
body  of  land  lying  still  farther  in  the  dis- 
tance, in  the  .Straits  of  Mackinac. 

St.  Martin's  Bay,  and  the  waters  con- 
tiguous, lying  north  of  Maclvinac,  aHbrd 
fine  lishing  grounds,  and  are  much  re- 
Borted  to  by  visitors  fond  of  agnatic  sports. 
Great  St.  Martin's  and  Jyittle  St.  Martin's 
Inlands  are  passed  before  entering  the 
bay,  and  present  a  beautiful  appearance. 

Carp  and  Pine  rivers  are  two  small 
Btreams  entering  into  St.  Martin's  Bay, 
affording  an  abundance  of  brook  trout  of 
a  large  size,  i'rom  the  head  of  the  above 
bay  to  the  foot  of  Lake  Superior,  is  only 
about  30  miles  in  a  northerly  direction, 
passing  through  a  wilderness  section  of 
country,  sparsely  inhabited  by  Indians, 
'who  have  long  made  this  region  their 
favored  hunting  and  lishing  grounds. 


Point  De  Tour,  36  miles  east  from 
Mackinac,  is  the  site  of  a  light-house  and 
settlement,  at  the  entrance  of  St.  Mary's 
River,  which  is  hero  about  half  a  mile  iu 
width;  this  passage  is  also  called  tho 
West  Channel.  At  a  distance  of  about 
two  miles  above  the  Point  is  a  new  set- 
tlement, where  have  been  erected  a  steam- 
boat pier,  a  hotel,  and  several  dwellings. 

Drummond  Island,  a  large  and  impor- 
tant body  of  land  belonging  to  the  United 
States,  is  passed  on  the  right,  where  are  to 
be  seen  tho  ruins  of  an  old  fort  erected 
by  the  British.  On  the  left  is  the  main- 
land of  Northern  Michigan.  Ascending 
St.  Mary's  River,  next  is  passed  Round  or 
PiPK  Island,  and  other  smaller  islands 
on  the  right,  presenting  a  beautiful  ap- 
pearance, most  of  them  belonging  to  tho 
United  States. 

St.  Joskpii  Island,  10  miles  above 
Point  de  Tour,  is  a  largo  and  fertile  island 
belonging  to  Canada.  It  is  about  20 
miles  long  from  east  to  west,  and  about 
15  miles  broad,  covered  in  par^  with  a 
heavy  growth  of  forest-trees.  Hero  are 
seen  the  ruins  of  an  old  fort  erected  by  the 
British,  on  a  point  of  land  commanding  the 
channel  of  the  river. 

Cahltoxville  is  a  small  settlement  on 
the  Michigan  side  of  the  river,  12  miles 
above  the  De  Tour.  Here  is  a  steam  saw- 
mill and  a  few  dweUing-houses. 

Lime  Island  is  a  small  body  of  land 
belonging  to  tho  United  States,  lying  in 
the  main  channel  of  the  river,  about  12 
miles  from  its  mouth.  The  channel  hero 
forms  tho  boundary  between  the  United 
States  and  Canadtu 

Mud  Lake,  as  it  is  called,  owing  to  its 
waters  being  easily  riled,  is  an  expansion 
of  the  river,  about  five  miles  wide  and  ten 
miles  long,  but  not  accurately  delineated 
on  any  of  the  modern  maps,  which  appear 
to  be  very  deticient  in  regard  to  St.  Mary's 
River  and  its  many  islands — presenting 
at  several  points  most  beautiful  river 
scenery.     In  the  St.  Mary's  River  tliere 


k 


TRIP    THROUGH    THE    LAKES. 


148 


land 
ng  in 
|)out  12 
1  hero 
United 


are  about  fifty  islands  belonging  to  the 
United  States,  besides  several  attached  to 
Canada. 

Nebisii  Island,  and  Sailor's  Encamp- 
ment, situated  about  half  way  from  the 
Point  to  the  Saut,  are  passed  on  the  left 
while  sailing  through  the  main  channel. 

SuoAK  Island,  a  largo  body  of  fertile 
land  belonging  to  the  United  States,  is 
reached  about  .'JO  miles  above  Point  do 
Tour,  situated  near  the  head  of  St.  Joseph 
Island.  On  the  right  is  passed  the  British 
or  North  Channel,  connecting  on  the  east 
with  Georgian  Bay.  Here  are  seen  two 
small  rocky  islands  belonging  to  the  Brit- 
ish Government,  which  command  both 
channels  of  the  river. 

The  Kebish  Rapids  are  next  passed  by 
the  ascending  vessel,  the  stream  here  run- 
ning about  five  knots  per  hour.  The  main- 
land of  Canada  is  reached  immediately 
above  the  rapids,  being  clothed  with  a 
dense  growth  of  forest«trecs  of  small  size. 
To  the  north  is  a  dreary  wilderness,  ex- 
tending through  to  Hudson  Bay,  as  yet 
almost  wholly  unexplored  and  unknown, 
except  to  the  Indian  or  Canadian  hunter. 

Lake  George,  twenty  miles  below  the 
Saut,  is  another  expansion  of  the  river, 
being  about  five  miles  wide  and  eight  miles 
long.  Here  a  new  channel  haa  been 
formed,  by  dredging,  which  gives  a 
greater  depth  of  water  than  formerly. 

The  highlands  to  the  north  of  Lake 
George  present  a  wild  and  rugged  ap- 
pearance. 

Church's  Landing,  on  Sugar  Island, 
twelve  miles  below  the  Saut,  is  a  steam- 
boat landing;  opposite  it  is  Squirrel 
Island,  belonging  to  the  Canadians.  This 
is  a  convenient  landing,  where  are  situated 
a  store  and  dwelling.  The  industrious 
occupants  are  noted  for  the  making  of 
raspberry  jam,  which  is  sold  in  large  quan- 
tities, and  shipped  to  Eastern  and  Southern 
markets. 

Garden  River  Settkment  is  an  Indian 


village  ten  miles  below  the  Saut,  on  tho 
Canadian  shore.  Hero  are  a  missionary 
church  and  several  dwellings,  surrounded 
by  grounds  poorly  cultivated,  fi.shing  and 
hunting  being  tiio  main  employment  of 
the  Chippewa  Indians  who  inhabit  this 
section  of  country.  Both  sides  of  the  river 
abound  in  wild  berries  of  good  flavor, 
which  are  gathered  in  large  quanlitios  by 
tho  Indians,  during  the  summer  montlis. 

St.  Mary's  River  and  Mackinac. 

"The  scenery  of  tho  St.  Mary's  River 
seems  to  grow  more  attractive  every  year. 
There  is  a  delicious  freshness  in  the  count- 
less evergreen  islands  that  dot  the  river  in 
every  direction,  from  the  Falls  to  Lake 
Huron,  and  I  can  imagine  of  no  more 
tempting  retreats  from  the  dusty  streets  of 
towns,  in  summer,  than  those  islands;  I 
believe  the  time  will  soon  como  when  neat 
summer  cottages  will  be  scattered  along 
the  steamboat  route  on  these  charming 
islands.  A  summer  could  be  delightfully 
spent  in  exploring  for  new  scenery  and  in 
fishing  and  sailing  in  these  waters. 

"And  Mackinac,  what  an  attractive  little 
piece  of  terra  fimia  is  that  island — half 
ancient,  half  modern!  The  view  from  the 
fort  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world. 
Perched  on  the  brink  of  a  precipice  some 
two  hundred  feet  above  the  bay — one 
takes  in  at  a  glance  from  its  walls  the  har- 
bor, with  its  numerous  boats  and  the  pretty 
village ;  and  the  whole  rests  on  one's  vision 
more  like  a  picture  than  a  reality.  Every 
thing  on  the  island  is  a  curiosity ;  the 
roads  or  streets  that  wind  around  the  har- 
bor or  among  tho  grove-like  forests  of  tho 
island  are  naturally  pebbled  and  macadam- 
ized; the  buildings  are  of  every  style, 
from  an  Indian  lodge  to  a  fine  English 
house.  The  island  is  covered  with  charm- 
ing natural  scenery,  from  the  pretty  to  the 
grand,  and  one  may  spend  weeks  con- 
stantly finuing  new  objects  of  interest  and 
new  scenes  of  beauty.  It  is  unnecessary 
to  particularize — every  visitor  will  find 


r  i 


1 

! 

Ifl 

Iff 

144 


FROM    CIIICAOO    TO    MACKINAC    AND    SALT    STK.    MARIE. 


them,  and  enjoy  the  sight  more  than  any 
description. 

"  Tho  stoamtTH  all  call  thoro,  on  thoir 
way  to  and  from  ('iiicaf^o,  iiiid  Imndri'dH  of 
Hiiiall  .tail  vessL'is,  in  tins  tiHJiiii^^  trade, 
have  hero  their  head-quarters.  Drawn 
\ipon  tiie  pebbled  bcaeli  or  Rlidin^  about 
the  liltle  bay  are  bark  canoes  and  the  far- 
fuiiicd  '  Mackinac  boats,'  without  nuni- 
l)er.  These  last  are  the  perfection  of 
Ught  sail-ljoats,  and  I  liavo  often  been 
astonished  at  seeing  tliem  fur  out  in  the 
laki.',  beating  up  against  winds  tliat  were 
next  to  gales.  Yesterday  the  harbor 
was  thronged  with  sail  boats  and  vessels  of 


every  description,  among  the  rest  were 
the  only  two  iron  steamers  that  the  Uni- 
ted States  have  upon  all  the  lakes,  the 
'Michigan' and  the  'Surveyor,'  formerly 
called  the  '  Abert,'  employed  in  the  Coast 
Survey. 

"  For  a  wonder,  Lake  II\iron  was  calm 
and  at  rest  for  its  entire  length,  and  tho 
steamer  'Northerner'  made  a  beautiful 
and  quick  passage  from  Mackinac  to  this 
place.  The  weather  continues  w  ami  and 
dry,  and  hundreds  are  regretting  they 
have  so  early  left  the  Saut  and  Mackinac, 
and  we  believe  you  will  see  crowds  of 
visitors  yet.  Jay." 


St.  IVIary's  River. 

By  a  careful  examina- 
tion of  tho  (iovernment 
Charts  of  tho  Straits  of 
Mackinac  and  River  Ste. 
Marie,  published  in  1 857,  it 
appears  that  the  Point  I)e  Tour  Light- House 
is  situated  in  45"  57'  N.  Lat.,  being  3G 
miles  to  the  eastward  of  Fort  Mackinac. 
The  width  of  the  Do  Tour  passage  is  about 
one  mile,  with  a  depth  of  water  of  100 
feet  and  upwards,  although  but  50  feet 
is  found  off  the  light,  as  you  run  into 
Lake  Huron.  Druimnond  Inland,  attached 
to  the  United  States,  lies  on  tho  east, 
while  the  main  shore  of  Michigan  lies  to 
the  west  of  the  entrance.  Pipe  Island, 
4  miles,  is  first  passed  on  ascending  the 
stream,  and  then  Lime  Island,  6  miles 
further.  St.  Joseph's  Island,  with  its  old 
fort,  attP"hod  to  Canada,  lies  8  miles  from 


the  entrance.  Potagannis' 
sini/  Ji(iy,  dotted  with  nn« 
merous  small  islands,  most- 
ly belonging  to  the  United 
States,  is  seen  lying  to  tho 
eastward,  communicating 
-  with  tho  North  Chan- 
nel. Mini  Lake,  6  miles 
further,  is  next  entered,  having  an  ex- 
panse of  about  4  miles  in  width,  when 
Satlirr's  Knnunpment  Island  is  reached, 
being  20  miles  from  Lake  Huron.  The 
head  of  St.  Joseph's  and  part  of  Svgar 
Maud  are  reached  26  miles  northward 
from  tho  De  Tour,  where  diverges  the 
Canadian  or  North  Channel,  running  into 
the  (leorgian  Bay;  this  channel  is  fol- 
lowed by  the  Canadian  steamers.  The 
Nebish  linpids  are  next  passed,  and  Lak6 
George  entered,  (J  miles  further,  being  32 
miles  from  Lake  Huron.  This  lake  or  ex- 
pansion of  the  river  is  9  miles  m  length 
and  4  miles  broad,  affording  13  feet  of 
water  over  the  shoals  and  terminating  at 
Church's  Landing,  lying  o{)posito  Sguir- 
rel  Island,  attached  to  Canada.  Garden 
River  Settlement,  3  miles,  is  an  Indian 
town  on  the  Canada  side.  Little  Lake 
George  is  passed  and  Point  Aux  Pins 
reached,   3  miles   further.    From   Little 


THE  8TRAIT8  OP  MACKINAC. 


145 


Lake  Gcorpp  to  the  Saut  Ste.  Marie,  pas- 
Hin^  around  tlic  head  of  Sugar  Iflland,  in 
8  miles  further,  bi'ingo5  inilesfrom  Lake 
Huron.  TJ>e  liapuh,  or  Ship  Canal,  ex- 
tei»d  foraboutoiie  niile,overconiingafall 
of  20  feet,  when  a  beautiful  stretch  of  the 
river  is  next  passed  and  Wai»ka  Bay 
entered, (iiuiU'sahovetlie  rapids;  maiving 
the  St.  Mary's  Kiver(i2  miles  in  length. 
The  chamiel  foruung  the  boundary  line 
between  (Canada  and  the  United  States  is 
followed  by  the  ascending  steamer  from 
the  lower  end  of  St.  Joseph's  Island  to 


Lake  Superior,  while  a  more  direct  jias- 
sageisafibrded  for  vessels  of  light  draught 
through  Ilay  Luke,  lying  west  of  Sugar 
Island  and  entering  Mu<i  Lake.  Noth- 
ing can  be  more  charming  than  a  trip 
over  these  waters,  when  sailing  to  or 
from  the  Straits  of  Mackinac,  thus  hav- 
ing in  view  rich  and  varied  lake  and 
river  scenery,  once  the  f^xclusive  and 
favored  abode  of  the  red  man  of  the 
forest,  now  fost  passing  away  before  the 
marcli  of  civilization. 


H 


m 


'nffir 


A   NEW   ROUTE. 


The  Detroit  Free  Press  says :  "  Early 
last  season  Gen.  Weitzel  called  the 
attention  of  the  United  States  Gov- 
ernment to  the  desirability  of  not  only 
shortening  the  distance  from  the  coun- 
try below  to  Lake  Sui)erior,  but  urged 
that  a  route  entirely  witiiin  American 
waters  might  be  utilized  with  com- 
paratively little  cost.  The  suggestion 
met  with  favor  at  once,  and,  tlirough 
Gen.  Humphrey,  Gen.  Weitzel  was  in- 
structed to  make  the  necessary  surveys 
and  report  as  soon  as  practicable. 

"The  point  of  departure  from  the  old 
course  is  about  the  middle  of  Mud  Ijake, 
from  which  the  line,  as  shown  on  the 
surveyors'  map,  passes  through  West 


Neebish  Rapids  to  the  Sant  Canal,  mak- 
ing a  diilerence  in  favor  of  the  new  route 
of  thirteen  miles,  aflbrding  a  safe  pas- 
sage for  vessels,  in  water  having  an  av- 
erage depth  of  sixteen  feet,  both  night 
and  day,  whereas  now  portions  of  the 
old  route  can  be  traversed  only  in  the 
day-time,  as  at  East  Neebish  Rapids 
and  the  cut  at  Lake  George.  The  only 
dredging  necessary  to  open  the  new  route 
to  commerce  will  be  about  twelve  feet 
for  a  distance  of  one  and  a  half  miles 
in  West  Neebish  Rajuds;  at  Hay  Lake 
Flats,  where  four  feet  of  dredging  will 
be  required  over  a  space  of  three  and  a 
half  miles,  and  a  small  amount  of  work 
at  Sugar  Island  Rapids." 


t 

1 

THE  STRAITS  OF  MACKINAC. 

THE  OPENINO   FOB  TWENTY-ONE   YEARS. 

The  following  Table  gives  the  dates  of  the  opening  of  the  Straits  for  twenty- 
one  years,  including  the  present : — 


1854 April  2.5 

1855 May  1 

1850 May  2 

1857 May  1 

1858 April    0 

1859 April   4 


1800 April  13 

l«(il April  25 

18(52 April  18 

IMW April  17 

1804 April  23 


1805 April  21 

1800 April  2i» 

1H(;7 April  2a 

1808 April  ID 

18G0 Atiril  2a 


1870 April    3 

1871 April    3 

1872 April  28 

187:) April  ;J0 

1874 AprU  29 


10 


•mi 


m^i 


146  TRIP  THRoron  the  lakes. 


ST.  MARY'S  SHIP  OANAL 

NUMBER  OP  VESSELS,   TONNAOE  AND  PABSENOEKa  PASSING  TUROUOR 

THE  CANAL. 


ViBsels,  &o.,  Passing  Through. 

Sail  Vesflela 

Bteam  VcHsels 

Total 

Tolls  per  ton 

Total  receipts  for  tollH 

Total  amount  of  tonnage 

IncreuHc  of  tonnage 

Number  of  paHsengers 

Total  receipUi  since  opening  the 
Canal 


No.  In  1870. 


1,397 
431 


1,828 


6  cents. 
$41,896.00 
696,825 

"  17,158 


No.  in  1871. 


1,064 
673 


1,637 


4J  cents. 

$33,865.45 

752,100 

i5,859 


No.  in  1872. 


1,214 
790 


2,004 


4  J  cents. 

$41,232.44 

914,735 

162,635 

25,230 

$430,542.86 


No.  in  1873. 


1,644 
968 


J,512 


4^  &  3}  cts' 

$44,943.18 

1,204,445 

289,710 

30,966 

$27?,541.04 


PRINCIPAL  HOTELS  IN  THE  LAKE  OITIBS,  &o. 


NAME. 


Buffalo,  N.  Y. 

Niagara  Fali.8,  N.  Y. 

(Canada  Side) 

Kiagara,  Ont. 

St.  Catherines,  Ont. 

Hamilton, 

Toronto, 


« 


Erie,  Penna. 
Cleveland,  Ohio, 


Toledo,  Ohio. 
Detroit,  Mich. 


Mansion  House, 
Tift  House, 
Cataract  House, 
International  Hotel, 
Clifton  House, 
Queen's  Il(wal  Hotel, 
Stevenson  House, 
Royal  Hotel, 
Queen's  Hotel, 
Rossin  House, 
Ellsworth  House, 
Reed  House, 
Forest  City  House, 
Kennard  House, 
Weddell  House, 
Boody  House, 
Biddle  House, 
Michigan  Exchange, 
Russell  House, 


PROPRIETOBS. 

L.  L:  Hodges. 

Tuthill  Brothers. 

"Whitney,  Jerrauld  &  Co. 

Jas.  T.  Fulton. 

Collmrn  &  Co. 

Henry  Winnett,  Manager. 


Thomas  McGaw,  Manager. 
George  P.  Shears. 
F.  H.  Ellsworth. 

Terrill  &  IngersoU. 
David  McClasky. 
R.  A.  Gillette. 
Mr.  DeGroff. 

Edward  Lyon. 
Witbeck  &  Chittenden. 


I     ! 


147 


TABLE    OF   DISTANCES, 

From  Tokonto  akd  Collincjwood,  to  Saut  Ste.  Marie  and 
FoiiT  William,  Canada. 

PASSING  TIIROUGIl  GEOUOIAN  BAY,  THE  NORTH  CHANNEL  AND  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


Northern  Railway  of  Canada. 

MILES.                                BTATIONS,  40.  MILES. 

4:jG    TOROIVTO 0 

422    Thornhill 14 

418    Kichmond  Ilill 4  18 

40«)     Aurora 12  30 

402     Newmarket 4  34 

398    Holland  Landing 4  38 

395     Bradford 3  41 

387    Gilford 8  49 

173    Allendale 14  63 

372    Barrie 1  64 

356    Snnnidale 16  80 

342    CoUiiiKWOOd 14  94 

Steatnhoat  Route, 

{Georgian  Bay.) 

312    Cape  Rich 30  124 

296    Owen's  vSound 16  140 

262    Cabot's  Head 34  174 

242     Lonelv  Island 20  194 

226     Squaw  Island 16  210 

216    Cape  Smythe 10  220 

196    She-ha-wa-nih-ning 20  240 

181     Man-i-tou-wah-ning 15  255 

171     Liftle  Current — Great)     ,«  nac. 

Manitoulin  Island,  r  ^^^ 

151     Clapperton  Island 20  285 

121     Barrie  Island 30  315 

86    Cockburn  Island 35  350 


71 
53 
45 
39 
36 
26 


24 
21 
14 
10 
0 


324 

318 

309 

299 

294 

280 

275 

265 

190 

105 

75 

60 

15 

0 


STATIONS,  kO.  MILES. 

Pnimmond's  Is.,  Mich... 15  365 

Brice  Mine.^  Can 18  383 

St.  Joseph  Island 8  391 

Canipenient  D'Ours  Is...  6  397 

The  Narrows 3  400 

Sugar  Island,  Mich 10  410 

{St.  Mai-y'a  River.) 

Nebish  Rapids 2  412 

Lake  George w 3  415 

Church's  Lanpino 7  422 

Garden  River  Settle'nt..  4  426 

Saut  Sie.  Marie.lO  436 

{Ship  Canul.) 


Saut  Stc.  Marie...  436 

Point  aux  Pins,  Can...  6  442 

GrosCap 9  451 

Parisien  Island 10  461 

Goulois  Bay  and  Point..  5  466 

Sandy  Islands 14  480 

Batchewanaung  Bay 5  485 

Mamainse  Point 10  495 

Michipicoten  Island 75  570 

Slate  Islands 85  655 

Ste.  Ignace  Island 30  685 

Ent'ce  to  Neepigon  Bay.l5  700 

Silver  Islbt 40  740 

Fort  William,  Can.20  760 


,„f»<'in<r 


APPROACHES  TO  LAKE  SUPERIOR  via  NIAGARA  FALLS, 
TORONTO  AND  COLLINGWOOD,  CANADA. 


COLLI  jNGW< 
Of  all  the  approaches  to  Lake  Supe- 
rior from  the  Atlantic  Seaboard,  or 
from  Montreal  and  tiuebec,  nothing 
exceeds  the  Colli ii'/woodlioutc  for  grand 
and  varied  Lake,  Island  and  Kiver 
Scenery,— Niagara  Falls  and  Kiver,— 
Lake  ()ntario,— The  Thousand  Islands 
in  the  St.  Lawrence  Kiver,— combined, 
with  their  shores,  have  no  equal  on  the 
continent  of  America  for  sublimity  and 
grandeur.  Then  tlie  Georgian  Kay 
with  its  ii!numeral)le  islands,  the  North 
Ciiannel  and  islands  of  great  beauty, 
togctiier  with  the  lovely  St.  Mary's 
Kiver  and  its  Kapids  repeats  the  in- 
ducements of  pleasure  travellers  to  se- 
lect this  favorite  route  in  ajiproaching 
or  returning  on  their  trips  to  tiie  Up- 
per Lakes. 

TORONTO  TO 
On  leaving  Toronto  for  Collingwood, 
via  the  Northern  Ilnilwc.i/  of  0.ina<la,  *he 
route  extends  througli  an  interesting 
section  of  country  for  most  of  the  dis- 
tance, 94  miles.  Several  villages  and 
many  highly  cultivated  farms  are 
p.issed  l)cfore  arriving  at  the  head  of 
Lake  Sirnroe,  a  beautiful  body  of  water, 
which  is  passed  lyiug  on  the  east. 

New  Market,  is  a  flourishing  in- 
corporated town  situated  near  the  west 
side  of  Lake  Himcoe,  in  the  county  of 
York,  84  miles  fron.  Toronto.  It  is 
one  of  the  largest  and  most  important 
stations  on  the  lino  of  the  Nortliern 
Railway.     Population  about  3,000. 

Kell  Ewaht,  54  miles  from  To- 
ronto, is  a  flourishing  village  on  Lake 
Simcoe.  It  contains  3  churches,  saw- 
mills and  other  manufacturing  estab- 

148 


OOD  ROUTE. 

The  Great  Western  Railway  of  Canada, 
as  well  ;is  tiie  Grand  Trunk  liadway 
both  connect  with  the  above  Line  of 
Travel  at  Toronto  ;  also,  Steamers  nm- 
ning  on  the  St.  Lawrence  Ki'-er  anil 
Lake  Ontario.  The  Nortliern  llaUroad 
of  Canada,  94  miles  in  length,  runs  from 
Toror.to  to  Collingwood,  connecting 
with  a  Line  of  Sieamers  for  Saut  Ste. 
Marie  and  Lake  Superior. 

Toronto,  the  Seat  of  (xovernment 
for  tiie  Province  of  Ontario,  with  its 
beautiful  Jiay,  line  Streets,  Public 
Buildings,  and  good  Hotels,  with  mod- 
erate charges,  is  an  attractive  place  for 
Summer  Tourists.  Tlie  Queen's  ILitel 
and  the  liosain  House  are  much  fre- 
quented by  pleasure  travellers. 


COLLINGWOOD. 

lishments.  Steamers  ply  from  this 
place  to  Barrie,  Keaverton,  and  ( )rillia, 
situated  at  the  foot  of  the  lake.  A 
steamer  also  runs  to  Muskoka,  and 
otlie  •  landings  northward,  passing 
through  an  interesting  section  of 
country. 

Am.enpale,  03  miles,  is  a  now  set- 
tlement where  commences  a  Krnnch 
Railroad  running  to  Orillia,  situated 
at  the  foot  of  Lake  Simcoe. 

Bakhie,  (54  miles  north  of  Toronto, 
is  an  incorporated  town  at  the  head  of 
Kemi)enfelt  P.ay,  on  Lake  Simcoe.  It 
is  the  capital  of  the  county  of  Slmcoo, 
being  surrounded  by  a  tine  section  of 
country.  It  is  distant  from  (\)lling- 
wood  30  miles  and  from  Penetangni- 
Bhene  32  miles.  Population  about 3,500. 
A  steamer  runs  from  Barrie  to  the  dif- 


APPROACHES  TO  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


149 


fercnt  landings  on  Lake  Sivic.oe,  which 
lies -about  100  feet  above  Luke  Huron, 
into  which  it  empties  its  Hurpiua  waters 
througli  the  Severn  Kiver. 

C'ollillKWOO<l,  94  miles  from 
Toronto,  is  an  inijtortant  town  lying 
on  the  south  nhore  of  tieorgian  IJay. 
Here  is  carried  on  an  extensive  Iuiti- 
ber  business,  and  it  olierH  great  fa- 
cilities to  sliip  builders  and  otlier  kinds 
of  niainifacluring  ;  several  of  which  are 
in  oj)eralion.  The  conijiletion  of  the 
JVo)7Afr/t  JUiilimv  <>/  C'unaild  lUade  Coi- 
lingwood  the  nearest  route  to  (ireen 
Bay,  Milwaukee  and  C'iiicago,  as  well 
as  to  Lake  Superior.  Steamers  and 
Bail  vessels  now  run  to  all  the  above 
ports.  A  Line  of  Steamers  of  a  large 
class  now  run  from  ("ollingwood  to  the 
Saut  Ste.  Marie  and  the  ports  on  the 
North  Shore  of  the  ai)ove  Inland  Sea, 
connecting  with  a  line  of  travel  to  Fort 
Gauiiy,  Manitoba. 

OwKN  SorND,  capital  of  the  county 
of  (irey,  is  the  name  of  a  large  and 

KOUTE  FROM  COLLING  WOOD,  C.W.,  TO  TlIF  SAULTSTF.  MAKIE. 

TTtROt'OIT   OEOUOIAN    HAY   AND   NORTH    CHANNEL. 

This  is  a  new  and  higldy  interesting 
steamboat  excursion,  brought  into  no- 
tice by  the  comjdetion  of  the  Nnriheni 


flourishing  town  bituatod  on  the  south 
side  of  Georgian  Bay,  40  miles  south- 
west of  ('ollingwood.  Population  aliout 
3,oOO.  Steaniers  run  to  and  from  C'ol- 
lingwood  and  other  places.  The  To- 
rotitii,  Grcij  and  Bruce  Riiilniad  is  con- 
structed, running  to  Toronto,  distant 
12'2  miles. 

(Jeokoian  Kay,  lying  east  of  Lake 
Huron,  is  one  of  the'  purest  and  most 
interesting  bodies  of  water  of  the  Fp- 
iter  Lake  System.  Its  headlands, har- 
bors, and  innumerable  islands,  forming 
f roups,  known  as  Limestone  Islands, 
ndian  Islands,  and  I'arry's  Island 
and  Sound,  altogether  form  labyrinths 
which  it  is  impossible  to  describe. 
The  islands  on  the  northwest  are 
called  Lonely  Island,  Bustard  Islands, 
Fox  Islands,  Squaw  and  I'apoose 
Islands. 

The  North  Channel,  extending 
for  upwards  of  100  miles  westward  is 
another  lovely  sheet  of  water,  em- 
lK)soming  a  large  nundier  of  virgin 
ishmds,  covered  with  a  thick  foliage. 


ff! 


I 


Jidihraii  of  Canada,  94  miles  in  length, 
extending  from  Toronto  (o  Colling- 
wood,  at  the  southern  extremity  of 
Georgian  Bay. 

Nottawassaoa  Bay,  the  son.  .^m 
termination  of  ficorgian  Ray,  is  a  large 
expanse  of  water  bounded  by  ( 'ape  Rich 
(m  the  west,  and  (Christian  Islami  on 
the  east,  each  bci»ig  distant  about  SO 
nules  from  Collingwood.  At  the  south 
end  of  the  bay  lies  a  small  group  of 
islands  called  the  IIcii  and  (^hirkcns. 

Christian  Island,  lying  about  25 
niilea  from-  Penetangjishene,  and  25 


miles  north-east  of  Cape  Rich,  is  a  large 
and  fertile  islaml,  which  was  early  set- 
tled by  the  .Jesuits.  There  are  several 
others  passed  north  of  Christian  Island, 
of  great  beauty, whllcstill  farther  north- 
west arc  encountered  imunneral)le 
islands  and  islets,  forming  labyrinths, 
and  secluded  passages  anil  coves  as  yet 
aluK  .  unknown  to  the  white  man,  vx- 
tcnding  westward  for  upward  of  one 
hundred  miles. 

Pf:NETAN(;riSHENE,  Can.,  /iO  miles 
north  of  Collingwood  by  steamboat 
route,  situated  on  a  lovely  and  secure 
bay,  is  an  old  and  important  settlen»ent, 
coniprising  an  Episcopal  and  Roman 
Catholi'*  church,  two  hotels,  several 


ill 


ripnfr 


150 


TRIP  THROUGH  THE  LAKES. 


Stores  and  stosrfhonsea,  and  has  about  ROO 
inhabitants.  In  tho  immodiate  vicinity  are 
a  naval  and  military  depot  and  barracks, 
established  by  the  British  government. 
The  natural  beauties  of  tho  bay  and  har- 
bor, combined  with  the  pietures([ue 
scenery  of  the  shores,  make  up  a  picture 
of  rare  beauty.  Hero  may  bo  seen  tlie 
native  Indian,  tho  half-breed,  and  the 
Canadian  Voyageur,  with  the  full-lilooded 
Euglishinan  or  Scotchman,  forming  one 
community.  This  place,  being  near  the 
mouth  of  the  River  Severn,  and  contiguous 
to  tho  numberless  islands  of  Georgian 
Bay,  is  no  doubt  destined  to  become  a 
favorite  resort  for  the  angler  and  sports- 
man, as  well  as  for  the  invalid  and  seeker 
of  pleasure. 

Ou  leaving  Oollingwood  for  Bruce  Mines 
and  the  Saut  Ste.  Marie,  tha  steamer 
usually  runs  direct  across  tjeorgian  Bay 
to  Lonely  Island,  passing  Cabot's  Head 
to  the  right,  and  the  passage  leading  into 
tho  broad  waters  of  Lake  Huron,  which 
is  the  route  pursued  by  the  steamers  in  the 
voyage  to  Mackinac,  Green  Bay,  and 
Chicago.  D\iring  tho  summer  »nonths  tho 
trip  from  CoUingwood  to  Mackinac  and 
Chicago  affords  a  doliglitful  excursion. 

Owen's  Sound,  or  Sydkniiam,  50  miles 
west  of  CoUingwood,  although  off  tlio 
direct  route  to  the  Sant  Ste.  Mario,  is  well 
worthy  of  a  passing  notice.  Hero  is  a 
thriving  settlement,  surrounded  by  a 
fertile  section  of  country,  and  containing 
about  2,500  inhal)itaut3.  A  steamer  runs 
daily  from  CoUingwood  to  this  place, 
whici)  will,  no  doubt,  soon  be  readied  by 
ailroad. 

LoNKLY  Island,  situated  about  lOO 
miles  west  of  CoUingwood  and  20  miles 
east  of  tho  Groat  Manitoulin  Ishmds,  is  a 
huge  body  of  land  mostly  covered  with  a 
dense  forest,  and  uninhabited,  except  by  a 
few  fisliormen,  wlio  resort  here  i>,t  certain 
seasons  of  the  year  for  tho  purpo,so  of 
taking  lish  of  diflereut  kinds.  The  steam- 
er usually  passes  tliis  island  on  its  north 


side,  steering  for  Cape  Sfmyth,  a  bold 
promontory  jutting  out  from  the  Oreat 
Manitoulin,  and  distant  from  Lonely  Island 
about  25  miles. 

Sqi-aw  Island  and  Papoose  Island 
are  seen  on  tlie  northeast,  wiiile  farther 
inland  are  the  Fox  IsUinds,  being  the  com- 
mencement on  the  west  of  tho  itmumera- 
ble  islands  whicli  al)oimd  along  tho  north 
sliore  of  Georgian  Bay. 

La  Cloche  Mountains,  rising  about 
2,000  feet  above  tliO  sea,  are  next  seen  in 
tlie  distance,  toward  the  nortli ;  tiiese,  com- 
bined with  the  wild  scenery  of  the  islands 
and  heaiUands,  form  a  grand  panoramic 
view,  enjoyed  from  tho  deck  of  the  passing 
steamer. 

Smyti'.'s  Bay  is  passed  on  the  west, 
some  eight  or  ten  miles  distant.  At  the 
.'vead  of  this  bay,  on  the  great  Manitoulin 
Island,  are  situated  a  village  of  Indians, 
and  a  Jesuit's  mission,  called  We-qua-mo- 
koiig.  These  aborigines  are  noted  for 
their  industry,  raising  wlieat,  corn,  oats, 
and  potatoes  in  large  (luantities.  This 
part  of  the  island  is  very  fertile,  and  tho 
climate  is  liealthy. 

Siie-ba-wa-nah-KING,  signifying,  in  the 
Indian  dialect,  '•  litre  is  a  Llmnvel,''''  is  a 
most  charming  spot,  40  niiles  distant  from 
Lonely  Island,  hemmed  in  by  mountains 
on  the  north  and  a  high  locky  island  on 
the  south.  It  is  situated  ou  tho  north 
side  of  a  narrow  diannel,  about  half  a 
mile  in  length,  wliieli  has  a  great  depth  of 
water.  Here  are  a  convenient  steamboat 
lauding,  a  church,  a  store,  and  some  ten 
or  twelve  dwellings,  inhabited  by  Cana- 
dians and  half-breeds.  Indians  assemble 
liere  often  in  considerable  numbers,  to  sell 
their  lish  and  furs,  presenting  with  their 
canoes  and  dogs  a  very  grotesque  appear- 
ance.  One  resident  at  this  landing  usual- 
ly attracts  much  attention — a  noble  dog, 
of  the  color  of  cream.  No  sooner  does 
the  steamer's  bell  ring,  than  this  animal 
rushes  to  tho  wharf,  sometimes  assisting 
to  secure  the  rope  that  is  thrown  ashore ; 


ROUTE   FROM  COLLINOWOOD  TO  SAUT  fiXE.  MARIE. 


151 


tho  next  move  ho  mnkea  is  to  board  the 
vessel,  as  though  ho  were  a  custom-house 
oflicer  ;  but  on  one  occasion,  in  liis  eager- 
ness to  got  into  tho  kitchen,  he  fell  over- 
board; nothing  daunted,  he  swam  to  the 
shore,  and  tlien  again  boarding  the  vessel, 
Bucceeded  in  liis  desire  to  till  his 
stomach,  showing  the  instinct  which 
prompts  nianj'  a  biped  office-seeker. 

On  leaving  Hhe^ba-wa-nah-ning  and  pro- 
ceeding westward,  a  most  beautiful  bay  is 
passed,  studded  with  islands ;  and  moun- 
tains upwards  of  1,000  feet  in  height,  pre- 
senting a  rocky  and  sterile  appearance, 
form  an  appropriate  background  to 
the  view  ;  thence  are  passed  IJadgley  and 
Heywood  Islands,  the  latter  lying  ofl"  Hey- 
wood  Sound,  situated  on  the  north  side 
of  the  Great  Manitoulin. 

Man-i-tou-wah-ning,  25  miles  north- 
west of  She-ba-wa-nah-ning,  is  handsome- 
ly situated  at  the  head  of  Heywood 
Sound.  It  is  an  Indian  settlement,  and 
also  a  government  agency,  being  the  place 
annually  selected  to  distribute  the  Indian 
annuities. 

Little  Current,  25  miles  west  of  She- 
ba-wa-nah-ning,  is  antrther  interesting 
landing  on  the  north  shore  of  the  Great 
Manitoulin,  opposite  La  Cloche  Island. 
Here  the  main  channel  is  narrow,  with  a 
current  usually  running  at  the  rate  of  five 
or  six  knots  an  hour,  being  much  aflected 
by  the  winds.  Tlio  steamer  stops  at  tiiis 
landing  for  an  hour  or  upward,  receiving 
a  supply  of  wood,  it  being  furnished  by 
an  intelligent  Indian  or  half-l)recd,  who 
resides  at  this  jdace  with  his  family.  In- 
dians are  often  seen  here  in  considerable 
nvnnbers.  They  are  reported  to  be  indo- 
lent and  harmless,  too  often  neglecting 
the  cultivation  of  tlie  soil  for  the  more 
uncertain  pursuits  of  lishing  and  hunting, 
although  a  considerably  large  clearing  is 
to  be  seen  indiflerently  cultivated. 

Clappehton  Island  and  other  islands 
of  less  magnitude  are  passed  in  the  Xorlh 
Channel,  which  is  a  largo  body  of  water 


about  120  miles  long  and  25  miles  wide- 
On  the  north  shore  is  situated  a  post  of 
the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  which  may 
be  seen  from  the  deck  of  the  passing 
steamer. 

CocKHURN  Island,  85  miles  west  of 
Little  C\irrent  lies  directly  west  of  the 
(ireat  Manitoidin,  from  which  it  is  sepa- 
rated by  a  narrow  channel.  It  is  a  large 
island,  somewhat  elevated,  but  uninhabit- 
ed, except  by  Indians. 

Drummoni)  Island,  15  miles  fartlier 
westward,  belongs  to  the  United  States, 
being  attached  to  the  State  of  Michigan. 
This  is  another  large  body  of  land,  being 
low,  and  as  yet  mostly  uninhabited. 

Tho  next  Island  approached  before 
landing  at  Bruce  Mines  is  St.  Josei-ii  Is- 
land, being  a  large  and  fertile  body  of 
land,  with  some  few  settlers. 

Bruce  Mines  Village  Can.,  is  situ- 
ated on  the  north  shore  of  Lake  Huron, 
or  the  "North  Channel,"  as  it  is  here 
called,  distant  21*0  miles  from  ( 'ollingwf)od, 
and  50  from  the  Saut  Ste.  Marie.  Here 
are  a  Methodist  chapel,  a  pubUc-house, 
and  a  store  and  siorehouse  belonging  to 
the  Montreal  Copper  Mining  Company, 
besides  extensive  buildings  used  for  crush- 
ing ore  and  preparing  it  for  the  market ; 
about  75  dwelhngs  and  GOO  inJiabitants. 
The  copper  ore,  after  being  crushed  l)y 
powerful  machinery  propelled  by  steam, 
is  put  into  puddling  troughs  and  washed 
by  water,  so  as  to  obtain  about  20  per 
cent,  pure  copper.  In  this  state  it  ia 
shipped  to  the  United  iStates  and  England, 
bringing  about  $K0  per  ton.  It  then  has 
to  go  through  an  extensive  smelting  pro- 
cess, in  order  to  obtain  the  pure  metal. 
The  mines  are  situated  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  village,  there  being  ten 
openings  or  shafts  from  which  the  ore  is 
obtained  in  its  '•-ude  state.  Horse-power 
is  mostly  used  to  elevate  the  ore;  the 
whims  are  above  ground,  attached  to 
which  are  ropes  and  buckets.  This  mine 
gives  employment  to  about  300  workmen. 


mr 


1  n 


152 


TRIP  THROUGH  THE  LAKES. 


The  capital  stock  of  the  company  amounts 
to  $60it,00(). 

Tho  WcUinijton  Mine,  about  one  mile  dis- 
tant, is  also  owned  by  tho  Montreal  Miti- 
iiif^  C()iu[)aiiy,  but  is  leased  and  worked 
by  an  JMiglish  company.  Tlii.s  mine,  at 
tho  present  time,  is  more  productive  than 
tho  Bruce  Mines. 

Tiio  Lake  Superior  Journal  gives  tho 
followiiiif  description  of  the  Bruce  Mine, 
from  wiiich  is  produced  a  copper  ore  dif- 
feriuf,'  from  that  which  is  yielded  by  otlier 
mines  of  that  peninsula. 

"Ten  yeans  ago  this  mine  was  opened, 
and  large  sums  expended  for  raacliinory, 
wliicii  proved  useless,  but  it  is  now  un- 
der new  management,  and  promises  to 
yield  profitably.  Twelve  shafts  have  been 
opened,  one  of  which  has  been  carried 
down  some  :i30  feet.  Borne  200  or  300 
men  are  employed,  all  from  tlie  ?]uropean 
mines.  Some  of  the  ores  are  very  beauti- 
ful to  the  eye,  resembling  line  gold.  After 
being  taken  out  of  the  sluil't,  they  are 
taken  upon  a  rail-track  to  the  crusiiing- 
huuse,  whero  they  are  passed  between 
largo  iron  rollers,  and  sifted  till  oidy  a 
fine  powder  remains ;  from  thence  to  "the 
'jigger-works,'  where  they  are  simken  in 
water  till  much  of  the  earthy  matter  is 
washed  away,  after  which  it  is  piled  in 
the  yard  ready  for  shipment,  having  more 
the  appearance  of  mud  than  of  copper.  It 
is  now  mostly  shipped  to  Swansea,  in 
Walea,  for  smelting.     Two  years  since, 


1,500  tons  were  shipped  to  Baltimore  and 
Buffalo  to  be  smelted." 

On  resuming  tho  voyage  after  leaving 
Bruce  Mines,  the  steamer  runs  along 
St.  Joseph  Island  th'-ough  a  beautiful 
sheet  of  water,  in  which  are  embosomed 
some  few  islands  near  the  main  shore. 

CAMrEME.ST  D'OuKs  is  an  island  passed 
on  the  left,  lying  contiguous  to  St.  Joseph 
Island.  Hero  are  encountered  several 
small  rocky  island.s,  forming  an  intricate 
channel  called  the  "  Narrows.''''  On  somo 
of  thu  islands  in  this  group  are  found  cop- 
per oro,  and  beautiful  specimens  of  moss. 
The  forest-trees,  howevx-r,  are  of  a  dwarf- 
ish growth,  owing,  no  doubt,  to  tiio  scant- 
iness of  soil  on  these  rocky  islands. 

About  10  miles  west  of  the  "  Narrows," 
the  main  channel  of  the  St.  Mary's  Kiv- 
or  i-s  reached,  forming  tho  i)oundary  be- 
tween the  United  States  and  Canada.  A 
rocky  island  lies  on  tho  Canadian  side, 
which  is  reserved  for  government  pur- 
poses, as  ht  commands  the  main  or  ship 
channel. 

Sugar  I.slaxd  is  now  reached,  which 
belongs  to  the  United  States,  and  the 
steamers  run  a  furtlier  distance  of  25 
miles,  when  the  landing  at  tho  Saut  Sto.  Ma- 
rie is  reached,  there  being  settlements  on 
both  sides  of  tho  river.  The  British  boats 
us>ially  land  on  the  north  side,  while  the 
American  boats  make  a  landing  on  the 
south  side  of  the  river,  near  tho  moutU  of 
tho  ship  cauaL 


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IJ 


AKE  Superior  Guide. 


1 

■:    \ 

J 

■    t 

Saut  f't.o.  Marie,  the  vaitUd  of 
CJiij>[M'Wu  {'oiiiiiy,  Michigiiu,  niul  u  XK>rt 
.!•'  fiUrv,  IK   t'K'iirliigi'uiiHly  Hiuuii»u  on 
f^l.   M;iry'«   J{i*>i,  nr  Hlniit,   .'.!•">"»   nu'.v* 
N.N  \V  uf  [Vtroii,  lifing  oO  mil*'*'  .t,L»<»»' 
Lak':  iliiron,  au'i  15  mil*so  troin  ttu>  (uol 
o!'  L;ik('  Snp.,riur,  in  N.  lat.  lb''  'M<'  •  ^* 
tonj:  S!"  *[\'.   Til.-  llapid'^  ut  thi-  p>  ■ 
;ri-uiK  I'-i'  'liuiio  »o  the  Ht'tilenurdw 
h'.tlk  i»idi.w  i;f"  the  river,  )rjv<'  a  ik-»'  «•" 
l."0  iW't  within  the  diat:u;ct'  of  a  uii' 
fnrni   the   n.i.:aml   limit   of  n.. 
T!u;   X/w';>    (i'"«'i/,  however,  1 
IH-j'),  on  th<-  American  si«K',  uhv  irtUi*  um 
tlithi  "il'y.    Stcamtirs  oiid  nail  vf^j^ek  or  a 
'arg(   t^liww  Dow  ui'.ss  throu^rh  tiu"  loclo* 
mto  lA)«k*'  .Superior,  greatly  J'ftcilif.alui|»; 
truh'  anil  o.'iiiuicrce. 

The  villitg";  on  the  American  «ido  i»» 
})! '.•HantJv  Kimatcd  at  th«  foot  of  the 
i!  iji'l,-',  ami  c<iritaiiw  ft  1  rei'hyteriHi!  and 
a  li\>m;in  (.'.aholie  chunh,  2  holds,  •< 
':r  lU  Mori'-'  uiid  stoftl.oUMiti,  and  alKnil 
l'J(M)  i'.diiiMlanls,  having  incroa«e<l  bul 
•I'-'-vIy  Kiiirc  itc  first  setthimnt  l)v  fhe 
!  rtir.  )i  in  \i.'<M.  Many  of  li.c  inhiil)Ilunt,<, 
]ni!iMim  ajid  hri.lf-hnHJ<ls  in  the  vicinity, 
are  <^  .KaK*.d  in  the  fiir  inulo  nnd  fiBlieiies ; 
til.:  iatter  h«  iiiff  fih  uutHirt.uii  und  protjt- 
ah:>'  •)4'rup;Ui(»'-.,  hero  Dciii^'  t.iken  Iarj»e 
<ln;uuiueK  uf  \»iiil«  fish.  iSiuinii.T  vi^itor^ 
:fUi)ii»lly  il'  k  tv.)  thLs  plncti  and  \ne  lAke 
Snperi.r  coiintr\-  for  ht^nlth  and  j'leatnr 
VIk-  Oiippitwi  ititu.-  .  a  weli-kepl  liot«  1,  on 
the  Ann  rinuj  «ide,  niiciitcd  near  th** 
St- tmlxiat  f-dn«»inj^,  and  ohl  i.n  the 
«  nimdian  wide  <•<'  tlif*  rl'^r,  both  aiLn.1 
.iT/od  tu:comn><  nJat>ouf«, 


The  iJ.i'iii',  an  witnoiflcd  from  the  deck 

of  the  4tuuji«[   oil  pdfesiii^  tiiioiiuh  the 

lo<'kj*,  irf  1)'^  lilt'  ni'«t»l  interest  in,,;   'ud  ,  jt- 

•"iting chiiiact«'r.     Thv  Shi[<  ^'anal  —  the 

Ihver  —  ih**   rilan(i'<  -  the  two  villapfft 

in  Right  «>«  niihor  side  of  tlic  Htreani,  and 

^"  '     ■   in 'tieir  f'iri  h '.•an»i<?»<, enfjagvd 

.i't  *i8h  belfiw  the  Eapidn.are 

,••*  /«t  the  «ani''  time,  prefentiniij 

■  ->   •    M  .i^'niiKviit  jjanoriMun. 

iiict'.'d  in  IHiJil   Is    .1  'lid 


1<.  '  ilOJlll 
point  Ait 

lilttrly  '• 

kTIM    I'".. 


ih"  .ife«i*»ni  t:«.'niiirv  tb«>  Am-  r- 

a*\  ;i  ui'iiiuj^ 
n.ept  i;p  until 


pufl  At  I. 

thi:  vi-ar  i^•lJ^, 

TiiK  uv.-an  annnal  f,eniperr\rt)'-e  of Sant 
St*>.  Mnrie  iti  0)^°  l-ahr. ;  Horin.a:.  :i7i"; 
Siuni  I.  r,  6*2'^',  Aiituinn,  4Z\" ,  Wiiiier, 
:^'U"  ;  it  Ixiinjr  sitiua.d  iioa»-  liie  iioMii*  rn 
limit  uf  (he  t«Biperate  tone.  InifrK'fti- 
aioly  tc>  inv  north,  in  thin  latiiiide,  the 
if'Untry  li  liable  to  killing  fnwtx  dui'nj' 
the  siKinuer  numthi;,  owing  to  the  tuhi 
intlueiiee  »w«t|«ni^  down  trorn  Hud^'P 
Bay,  nomc  30<)  .>r  4<X)  miles  dij-tant 

1  '  e  M'li  'ft'-.  Sunt  Si4!.  iftirir,  .md 
J/ur,;,  >ij/r  i!,.j«f  m<i,  nuw  being  pnrv'tiytd 
and  conw^riiet.*^!.  will  eonntxrt  tho  Sunt 
wiUi  !>-'lii  Mackinae  and  JSIar<|UetK;,  il- 
fnnlin^  v'i  .  (iimrtnnity  to  Ir.'iveJlor**  to 
rt'tfh  ihiii  p»  intat  all  aeasooo  it  ide  -enr. 

A  railPfi-'.d  it  al«o  charleivU  hv  tii« 
Cauadian  tiitvcmnieitt  l«>  e.im»liU-t  A 
r«id  oartwaxd  to  ToK>r>l  >,  M<^n»re«I.  rtc 

ir,4 


§ 


If 


%* 


Lake  Superior  Guide. 


Saut  Ste.  Marie,  the  capital  of 

Chip[>ewa  county,  Michigan,  and  a  port 
of  entry,  is  advantageously  situated  on 
St.  Mary's  Kiver,  or  Strait,  .'Jo-')  miles 
N.N.W.  of  Detroit,  being  oO  niik^s  al)()ve 
Lake  JIuron,  and  15  miles  from  tiie  foot 
of  Lake  Superior,  in  N.  lat.  40°  30' ;  W. 
long.  84°  43^  The  Kapids  at  this  place, 
giving  the  name  to  the  settlements  on 
both  sides  of  the  river,  have  a  descent  of 
20  feet  within  the  distance  of  a  mile,  and 
form  the  natural  limit  of  navigation. 
The  Ship  (Jamil,  however,  linished  in 
iHfjo,  on  the  American  side,  obviates  this 
dilHculty.  Steamers  and  sail  vessels  of  a 
large  class  now  pass  through  the  locks 
into  Lake  Sujierior,  greatly  facilitating 
trade  and  commerce. 

The  village  on  the  American  side  is 
pleasantly  situated  at  the  foot  of  .he 
Kapids,  and  contains  a  Presbyterian  ,ind 
a  Roman  Catholic  church,  2  hotels,  8 
or  10  stfjres  and  storehouses,  and  about 
1200  inhabitants,  having  increased  but 
slowly  since  its  first  settlement  by  the 
French  in  1()G8.  Many  of  the  iidiabitants, 
Indians  and  half-breeds  in  the  vicinity, 
are  engaged  in  the  fur  trade  and  fisheries ; 
the  latter  being  an  important  and  profit- 
able occupation,  here  being  taken  large 
quantities  of  white  fish.  Summer  visitors 
annually  flock  to  this  place  and  the  L:ikc 
Superior  country  for  health  and  pleasure. 
The  CItrppcvKi  Ifow,sc,  a  well-kept  hotel,  on 
the  American  side,  situated  near  the 
Steamboat  Landing,  aixl  one  on  the 
Canadian  side  of  the  river,  both  aflbrd 
good  accommodations. 


The  scene,  as  witnesacd  from  the  deck 
of  the  steamer  on  j)assing  through  tho 
locks,  is  of  the  most  interesting  and  ex- 
citing character.  The  Ship  Canal  —  the 
Kiver  —  the  Islands  —  the  two  villages 
in  sight  on  either  side  of  the  stream,  and 
the  Indians  in  their  birch  canoes,  engaged 
in  taking  wliite  fish  below  the  Kapids,  are 
all  in  view  at  the  same  time,  presenting 
altogether  a  magnificent  panorama. 

Fort  Brady,  erected  in  1823,  is  an  old 
and   important    United   States  military 

i»ost,  contiguous  to  this  frontier  village. 
t  comniands  the  St.  Mary's  River  at  tliis 
point  and  ai)pr()ach  to  the  Ship  Canal. 

Early  in  the  present  century  the  Amer- 
ican Fur  Company  established  a  trading 
post  at  the  Saut,  which  was  kept  up  until 
the  vear  1848. 

The  mean  annual  temperature  of  Saut 
Ste.  Marie  is  40^°  Fahr. ;  Spring,  37^°; 
Summer,  (52° ;  Autumn,  43i° ;  Winter, 
20°  ;  it  being  situated  near  the  northern 
limit  of  the  temperate  zone.  Immedi- 
ately to  the  north,  in  this  latitude,  the 
country  is  liable  to  killing  frosts  during 
the  summer  months,  owing  to  the  cold 
influence  sweeping  down  from  Hudson 
Bay,  some  300  or  400  miles  distant. 

Tlie  Marquette,  Saul  Ste.  Marie,  and 
Mackinac  Railroad,  now  being  surveyed 
and  constructed,  will  connect  the  Saut 
with  both  Mackinac  and  Manjuette,  af- 
fording an  opportunity  to  travellers  to 
reach  this  point  at  all  seasons  of  the  year. 

A  railroad  is  also  chartered  by  the 
Canadian  Government  to  construct  a 
road  eastward  to  Toronto,  Montreal,  etc 

153 


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s 

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'■      I 


104 


LAKE  SUPERIOR  GUIDE. 


Saut  Ste.  Marie,  Algoma  District, 

Canada,  Hitiiated  on  tho  opportitu  nidc  of 
the  rivor,  is  a  scattered  Htttlement,  where 
ifl  located  an  old  post  of  the  Hudson  IJay 
Conipaiiy.  Here  is  a  Hteainhoat  landing, 
a  public  house  and  3  or  4  Htoren,  a  stone 
court-house  and  jail,  3  churches,  and  (500 
or  700  inli:il)itants.  Indians  of  the  Chip- 
pewa tril)e  reside  in  the  vicinity  in  con- 
siderable numbers,  they  having  the  right 
to  take  fish  in  the  waters  contiguous  to 
the  Kapi<ls.  They  also  employ  them- 
BelvcH  in  running  the  Kapids  in  their 
frail  hark  canoes,  when  desired  by  citi- 
zens or  strangers  —  this  being  one  of  the 
most  exhilarating  enjoyments  for  those 
fond  of  aipiatic  sports. 

The  streams  (lowing  into  the  St.  Mary's 
River  and  Lake  Superior,  on  the  Canada 
side,  are  favorite  resorta  for  anglers  fond 
of  pursuing  the  brook  trout,  which  are 
here  taken  in  large  (quantities  during  tho 
summer  months. 

The  country  in  the  rear  of  this  frontier 
Hettlement  is  settled  for  five  or  six  miles ; 
but  a  few  miles  farther  to  the  north  com- 
mences an  endless  wilderness,  extending 
north  to  within  the  Arctic  circle,  being 
sparsely  inhabited  by  Chippewas  and 
roving  tril)es  of  Indiana. 

The  primitive  appearance  of  the 
towns  on  the  American  and  Canadian 
banks  of  St.  Mary's  River,  in  connec- 
tion with  their  surroundings,  are  of  the 
most  interesting  character.  The  Ship 
Canal  and  locks  are  the  only  percejv 
tible  improvements  made  during  the  past 
century,  while  the  mixed  character  of  the 
population  on  the  South  Shore,  consist- 


j  ing  of  Americans,  French,  half-breeds, 
and  Indians,  in  connection  with  their 
Knglish  neighbors  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  river,  who  are  a  more  aristocratic 
chiss,  remind  one  of  something  foreign 
to  the  general  appearance  of  American 
villages.  A  Pteam  ferry  connects  the 
two  settlements. 

Nothing  but  the  projected  railroads 
to  connect  with  Montreal  and  Toronto, 
on  tlic  Canada  side,  and  the  railroad 
to  be  built  from  this  point  to  Mackinac 
and  ManpU'tte,  on  the  American  side, 
will  wake  up  these  places  fnmi  their 
"Rip  Van  AVinkle"  slundM-'rs. 

TuotT  KisiiiNo  R>X)RT8. — In  the  vi- 
cinity of  tile  Saut  Ste.  Marie  are  several 
streams  when'  sportsmen  resort  for  the 
purpose  of  taking  speckled  trout.  The 
nearest  pointsiirethe/?Oj>j(/«<)n  both  sides 
of  St.  Marv's  Kiver,  and  thesmall  streams 
between  the  islands  on  the  Canada  side; 
on  the  AniericMU  side,  Cryxhil  lidpidn,  two 
miles  below  the  Saut.  On  St.  Mary's 
River  are  several  projecting  points, 
from  one  to  five  nules  below  the  Saut, 
where  anglers  resort.  Garden  and  Hoot 
Iiira'8,  on  the  Canada  side  of  the  river, 
below  the  falls,  are  fine  trout  streams. 

On  the  North  Shore,  Canada  side,  are 
several  fine  trout  fishing  resorts,  from 
fifteen  to  sixty  miles  from  the  Saut, 
where  Indians  or  half-breeds  with  their 
canoes  have  to  be  employed,  often  camp- 
ing out  for  several  days.  Gonkas  liuy 
and  liatcheeu'amiunfj  Bay,  from  twenty  to 
forty  miles,  are  the  nearest  points.  On 
the  latter  bay  enters  Batcheewanaimg 
River  and  llarmony  River,  both  fine 
trout  streams.  Then  farther  northward, 
some  thirty  or  foity  miles,  are  the  Mon- 
treal River  and  the  Aguawa  River,  both 
celebrated  trout  streams,  where  are  good 
boat  harbors. 


FORT  BRADY— ST.   MARY'S  SHIP  CANAL. 


155 


Fort  Brady,  Miclii^'in,  ia  Hituatcd  on 
the  poutlirrii  bank  of  tl»c  SnutSte.  Marie, 
ill  40°  .W  nortli  latitude;  altitude,  (JOO 
fft't  above  tlie  ocean.  Mean  annual 
temperature,  40°  Falirenheit. 

*'  riie  military  hinlory  of  this  post 
cxtendn  back  to  1750,  at  which  time  the 
French  chiimed  jurisdiction  ov«  r  all  the 
territory  nortii  of  the  Ohio,  and  Bought 
to  erttablirth  poHta  at  tiie  more  important 

Idacefl,  for  the  purpose  of  controlling  the 
akeH,  and  excluding  tiie  Knglirth  an  far 
as  poHsible  from  obtaining  a  mothold  on 
Lake  Superior,  as  well  as  to  establish  a 
depot  of  supplies  and  ullbrd  protection  to 
the  traders. 

"In  1820  the  late  Gen.  Lewis  Cass, 
then  Indian  agent  for  the  North-west  In- 
dians, made  a  trip  around  the  lakes,  visit- 
ing tlie  shores  of  Lake  Superior,  and 
afterwards  of  Lake  Michigan,  going  as 
far  as  Chicago |  and  when  he  landed  at 
this  place,  on  hiH  voyage  up,  the  British 
Hag  was  flying  at  the  liead  of  the  rapi<ls, 
near  the  termination  of  the  canal.  He 
proceeded  in  person  to  haul  it  down  and 
raise  his  own  in  its  place.  There  were 
nearly  two  thousand  natives  and  French 
residents,  whose  8)  inpathies  were  in- 
tensely (Janadian,  and  consecpiently  this 
act  of  his  so  enraged  them  that  they  wero 
on  the  i)oint  of  attacking  him  at  once. 
Throiigh  the  intervention  of  a  few  of  the 
English  half-breeds,  the  Indians  wero 
quieted,  and  the  General  allowed  to  go 
in  peace.  On  his  return,  liowever,  from 
his  voyage  around  Lake  Superior,  Gen. 
Cass  concludetl  a  treaty  with  the  Chip- 
pewas,  on  June  20, 1820,  for  the  purchase 
of  sixteen  stpiare  miles  of  land,  with  a 
river  front  extending  from  a  large  rock 
near  the  national  boundary,  above  the 
fulls,  to  the  Little  Kapids,  at  the  head  of 
Sugar  Island,  the  Iiuiiana  reserving  the 
riijht  to  filth  undisturbed.  This  purchase 
constituted  the  original  military  district. 
Its  boundary  was  about  three  and  a  half 
miles  along  the  river,  by  four  and  one- 
third  miloe  deep.    This  rock  still  remains 


OH  one  of  the  leading  peculiarities  on 
Ashman's  Ilav,  being  a  large  boulder 
lying  in  shoal  water,  about  twenty  nxls 
I  from  the  ship  channel,  entering  the  upper 
end  of  the  canal.  In  1822  the  Ciovern- 
ment  of  the  United  States  determined 
ui)on  its  permanent  occupancy,  and  ac- 
cordingly (Jen.  llrady  was  directctl  to 
procee(l,  in  the  autumn  of  that  year,  to 
this  place,  with  six  companies  of  infantry, 
and  erect  a  stockade  and  buildings. 

"This  post  is  considered  one  of  the 
healthiest  on  the  Upper  Lakes,  yet  Dr. 
McDougall,  in  his  report  in  1837-M8  to 
the  Surgeon-General,  establishes  beyond 
controversy  that  want  of  attention  to 
sanitary  science  cannot  be  allowed  even 
in  this  northern  region,  except  at  the 
most  inuninent  risks." 

Fort  Hrady  is  at  the  jiresent  time  (1873) 
garrisoned  by  two  companies  of  the  first 
United  States  infantry,  under  the  com- 
mand of  Captain  Kinzie  Bates,  Here  are 
a  jKirk  of  artillery,  officers'  quarters,  hos- 
pital and  barracks,  with  grounds  liand- 
soiuely  situated,  overlooking  the  river 
and  the  oi)posite  Canadian  sljore. 

The  Indians  that  have  resided  in  this 
vicinity  for  the  past  one  or  two  hundred 
vears  are  the  Chippewa  tribe,  a  numerous 
l)ody  of  peaceful  Indians,  whose  habita- 
tions surround  Lake  Huron  on  the  north, 
and  Lake  Superior  on  both  shores,  ex- 
tending westward  to  the  Upper  Missis- 
sippi Kiver. 

St.  Mary' a  Ship  Canal.  —  The  enlarge- 
ment of  tlie  Ship  Canal  by  the  United 
States  Government  coramence<l  in  1871, 
since  when  an  appropriation  of  $1,00(J,000 
has  been  grained.  The  capacity  of  the 
new  lock  will  be  80  feet  wide,  500  feet 
long,  aflbrding  18  feet  of  water,  to  be  built 
of  stone,  in  the  most  substantial  manner. 
Lift  of  the  lock  18  feet,  overnmning  the 
Kapids  in  St.  Mary's  River.  The  canal 
is  one  mile  and  a  quarter  in  length,  80 
feet  wide  at  bottom,  and  100  feet  wide  on 
water   surface,  accommodating  vessels 


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156 


LAKE  SUPERIOR  GUIDE. 


of  the  largest  size  navigating  the  Upper 
Lakes. 

Improvements  will  have  to  be  made  in 
deepening  St.  Clair  Flats  and  the  St. 
Mary's  Kiver  in  order  to  accommodate 
vessels  of  a  large  tonnage.  American 
and  Canadian  steamers  and  sail-vessels 
are  almost  constantly  passing  up  and 
down  through  the  locks  of  the  canal 
during  the  season  of  navigation. 

Location  and  General  Description  of  the 
New  Lock.  —  The  axis  of  the  Lock  will 
be  parallel  to  the  axis  of  the  present 
Locks,  at  a  distance  of  175  feet ;  the  upper 
lock  gates  to  be  opposite  the  upper  lock 
gates  of  the  present  Locks. 

The  chamber  of  the  Lock  will  be  80 
feet  wide  at  the  coping,  and  450  feet  in 
length  from  quoin  to  quoin.  A  set  of 
guard  gates  will  be  placed  Gl  J^  feet  above 
the  upper  lock  gates,  and  the  walls  con- 
tinued 70  feet  above  the  hollow  quoins 
of  the  guard  gates,  including  wing  but- 
tresses of  2  feet.  At  a  distance  of  01 J  feet 
below  the  lower  lock  gates,  a  set  of  guard 
gates  will  be  placed,  to  open  down  stream ; 
the  wall  on  each  side  to  extend  70  feet 
below  tlie  hollow  quoin,  for  the  guard 
gate,  including  a  wing  buttress  of  2  feet. 

The  Lock  will  haye  a  lift  of  18  feet, 
and  a  depth  of  16  feet  of  water  on  the 
mitre  sills  at  the  stage  which  has  been 
assumed  as  that  of  ordinary  low  water. 

Extremes  of  the  water-level  on  Lake  Su- 
perior, from  June  30,  1872,  to  June  30, 
1873,  ax  measured  above  the  liocks  at  the 
St.  Mary's  Ship  Canal.  —  Highest  water, 
Noveml)er  27,  1872,  2J  feet  above  ordi- 
nary liigh  water ;  lowest  water,  April  10, 
1873,  2  feet  below  ordinary  high  water. 
Extreme  variation  4J  feet,  this  being  the 
most  remarkable  variation  on  record. 
The  above  phenomena  wsis  caused  by  a 
north-west  wind  blowing  over  Lake  Sujje- 
rior,  and  the  reverse  by  a  south-east 
wind. 


Opening  and  Closing  of  the  Ship 
Canal. 

The  business  of  the  canal  began  on 
the  eleventh  day  of  May  (1872),  and 
continued,  without  interruption,  until  the 
twenty-sixth  day  of  November  of  the 
same  vear,  —  six  and  a  lialf  months. 

In  1873,  the  first  steamer  passing 
through  locks,  upward  bound,  was  the 
Keweenaw,  May  11th,  followed  by  other 
steamers  and  propellers,  while  the  ice 
remained  in  the  harbors  of  Marquette 
and  Duluth  for  about  one  month  later. 


STATEMENT 

Of  Receipts  for  each  year  from  the  opening 

of  the  Canal,  June  18,  1855,  to  the  close 
of  the  season,  November,  1873. 

Receipts  for  1855,  6  cts,  per 

ton  on  steamers,  etc $4,374  66 

Receipts  for  l?oG 7,575  78 

"        "  1857 9,406  74 

"        "  1858 10,848  80 

"        "  1859 16,941  84 

"        «  I860 24,777  82 

"        "  1861 16,672  16 

"        «  1862 21,607  17 

"        «  1863 30,574  44 

"        "  1864 34,287  31 

Receipts  for  1865,  4  J  cts. 

per  ton  on  sail  vessel 22,339  64 

Receipts  for  1866 23,069  54 

"        "  1867 33,515  54 

"        «  1868 25,977  14 

"        «  1869 31,579  96 

"        "  1870 41,896  43 

Receipts  for  1871,  4  J  cts. 

per  ton  on  steamers,  etc.  33,865  45 

Receipts  for  1872 41,232  44 

Receipts  for  1873,  3J  cts. 

per  ton  on  steamers,  etc.  44,943  18 

Total $475,486  04 


.  ■^'■f'"**^*n-i-^.ifr 


" 


,943  18 
1.486  04 


PRINCIPAL  PLACES  OF  BESORT. 


167 


Principal  Places  of  Resort  on 

1.  Sdut  Sle.  Marie,  with  its  Eapida, 
Ship  Canal,  and  trout  ti.shing  resorts. 

2.  Ooidais  Bay,  on  the  Canada  side. 

3.  BcUcheewaruiung  Bay  and  River. 

4.  White  Fish  Point  and  Fishing 
Grounds. 

o.  Pictured  Bocks  —  Chapel,  Cascade, 
Wreck  Cliff)  Grand  Portail  or  Arched 
Kock,  Zebra  Cliff,  Spirit  Cave,  Sail  Rock, 
Miners'  Castle,  etc. 

6.  Grand  Island  Harbor,  and  Munising, 
with  its  romantic  falls,  etc. 

7.  Marqiieite,  with  its  surroundings,  the 
most  fashionable  resort  on  the  Lake. 

8.  Negaunee  and  Ishpeming,  together 
with  Iron  Mines  —  reached  by  railroad. 

9.  Eseanaba,  an  iron  port,  favorably- 
situated  on  Green  Bay  —  reached  by 
railroad. 

10.  L'Ans6,  a  new  and  flourishing 
town  on  Keweenaw  Bay  —  fine  sailing 
and  fishing. 

11.  Houghton  and  Hancock  —  copper 
mines  and  smelting  works. 

12.  Oalumel  and  HecUx  Copper  Mine, 
where  is  a  large  settlement. 

13.  Copper  Harbor  and  Lake  Fanny 
Hoe,  near  the  end  of  Keweenaw  Point. 

14.  Eagle  Harbor  and  Eagle  River, 
where  are  copper  mines. 


Lake  Superior  and  ita  Vicinity. 

15.  Ontonagon  —  copper  and  silver 
mines. 

16.  Bayfield  and  Ashland,  fashionable 
resorts,  where  boating  and  fishing  can  be 
enjoyed. 

17.  La  Pointe  and  the  Apostle  Islands. 

18.  Duluth  and  Superior  City,  together 
with  the  Dalles  of  the  St.  Louis  River. 

NORTH   SHORE. 

19.  Isle  Boyale,  with  its  copper  mines 
and  precious  minerals. 

20.  Pigeon  River,  and  romantic  falls, 
situated  on  the  bomulary  line. 

21.  Fort  William  and  Prince  Arthur's 
Landing,  Canada — silver  mines  and  ame- 
thysts. 

22.  Silver  Islet,  and  Thunder  Cape  — 
silver  region. 

23.  Nepigon  Bay  and  River,  with  ro- 
mantic scenery  and  famous  trout  fishing. 

24.  Island  of  Michipicoten,  with  its  rich 
foliage,  fishing,  etc. 

25.  Michipicoten  Bay  and  River,  with 
grand  scenery  and  good  fishing. 

All  the  above  places  of  the  South  and 
North  Shore  are  well  worthy  of  a  visit. 
They  can  be  reached  by  the  American  or 
Canadian  steamers.  Other  points  of  inter- 
est can  be  reached  by  canoes  or  sail-boats. 


Islands  in   Lake   Superior. 

AMERICAN   SIDE. 


Grrnd  Island  and  Light. 

Wood  Island. 

Train  Island. 

Middle  Island. 

Granite  Island  and  Light. 

Huron  Islands  and  Light. 

Traverse  Island. 


Parisien  Island. 
Maple  Island. 
Sandy  Islands. 
Montreal  Island. 
Lizard  Islands. 
Leach  Island. 
Caribou  Island. 


Manitou  Island  and  Light. 
Isle  Royale  and  Light. 

Apostle  Islands. 
Michigan  Island  &  Light. 
Outer  Island  and  Light. 
Madeline  Island. 
Basswood  Island. 

CANADIAN  SIDE. 

Michipicoten  Island. 
vSlate  Islands. 
Pic  Island. 
Simpson's  Island. 
Ste.  Ignace  Island. 
Silver  Islet. 
Porphyry  Islands. 


Hermit  Island. 
Stockton  Island. 
Oak  Island. 
Manitou  Island. 
Ironwood  Island. 
Raspberry  Island  &  Light, 
and  twelve  others. 

Welcome  Islands. 
Islands  in  Thunder  Bay. 
Pie  Island. 
Thompson's  Island. 
Spar  Island. 
Jarvis'  Island. 
Victoria  Island. 


Itt 


,^«rTfr"T*" 


STEAMBOAT   EXCURSION  —  South  Shore,  Lake  Superior. 


Satjt  Ste.  Marie,  situated  on  St. 
Mary's  River,  or  Strait,  55  miles  above 
Point  de  Tour,  on  Lake  Huron,  and  15 
miles  below  Tonquamenon,  or  White 
Fish  Bay,  is  a  place  of  great  interest  to 
travellers,  and  the  place  of  embarkation 
for  fishing  and  pleasure  parties,  during 
the  Summer  months. 

From  this  point  is  afforded  a  grand 
view  of  the  Rapids  and  Islands  lying  in 
the  river,  while  the  scene  is  usually  en- 
livened by  seeing  Indians  taking  white 
fish  by  means  of  scoop-nets. 


On  leaving  the  Ship  Canal,  on  the  up- 
ward trip,  a  beautiful  stretch  of  tlie  river 
is  passed  before  arriving  at  Point  aux 
Pins,  7  miles,  situated  on  the  Canada 
side.  Here  is  a  good  steamboat  landing 
and  a  desirable  place  for  fitting  out  fish- 
ing parties.  Waiska  Bay  is  next  entered, 
being  an  expansion  of  the  river  of  about 
6  miles  in  length  —  Round  Island  Light 
is  seen  on  the  south. 

Iroquois  Point  and  Light,  on  the  Amer- 
ican side,  and  Groa  Cap,  on  the  Canada 
side,  are  next  passed,  15  miles  from  the 
Saut.  The  latter  is  a  bold  promontory, 
rising  500  or  600  feet  above  the  water. 

Tonquamenon,  or  White  Fish  Bay,  is 
now  entered,  presenting  a  wide  expanse 
of  water,  being  about  25  miles  long  and 
as  many  broad,  with  a  depth  of  300  or 
400  feet.  Here  a  scene  of  wonder  is  pre- 
sented to  the  view  from  the  deck  of  the 
steamer  —  Parisien  Island,  attached  to 
Canada,  is  passed  on  the  right,  while  the 
highlands  toward  the  north  rise  to  the 
he^ht  of  800  or  1,000  feet. 

Qoulais  Bay  and  BatcheewanaungBay, 
being  famous  resorts  for  trout  fishing,  are 
seen  toward  the  north-east,  and  in  the 
far  distance  can  be  discerned  Mamaime 
Point,  where  are  found  copper  ore  and 
other  metals,  being  the  commencement  of 
the  mineral  region. 


White  Fish  Point  and  Light,  40 
miles  from  the  Saut,  is  another  object  of 
great  interest  to  the  mariner. —  Lake 
Superior,  stretching  about  460  miles  in 
a  north-west  direction,  with  an  average 
width  of  about  100  miles,  here  presents 
a  grand  apj)earance  from  the  deck  of  the 
passing  steamer.  It  lies  600  feet  above 
the  sea,  its  greatest  depth  being  900  feet, 
extending  300  feet  below  the  level  of  the 
ocean;  estimated  area,  32,000  square 
miles.  Nearly  two  hundred  creeks  and 
rivers  are  said  to  flow  into  the  lake,  a  few 
of  which  are  navigable  for  steamers  from 
2  to  20  miles.  Its  principal  affluents 
are  the  St.  Louis  River,  Pigeon  River, 
Kaministiquia  River  and  Nepigon  River. 

"  Father  of  Lakes  I  thy  waters  bend 
Beyond  the  eagle's  utmost  view, 

When,  throned  in  heaven,  he  sees  thee  send 
BacK  to  the  sky  its  world  of  blue. 

"  Boundless  and  deep,  the  forests  weave 
Their  twilight  shade  thy  borders  o'er, 

And  threatening  cliffs,  like  giants,  heave 
Their  rugged  forms  along  thy  snore." 

On  passing  White  Fish  Point  the 
American  steamers  usually  run  near  the 
South  Shore  of  the  Lake,  having  the  land 
continually  in  sight  along  tne  Upper 
Peninsula  of  Michigan,  extending  west- 
ward to  near  the  Apostle  Islands,  a  dis- 
tance of  about  400  miles,  passing  in  their 
course  around  Keweenaw  Point. 

Running  along  the  coast  from  White 
Fish  Point,  westward,  for  about  50  miles, 
the  shore  presents  high  sandy  bluffs,  with 
no  harbor  or  place  of  remge  for  the 
mariner,  although  the  mouths  of  Two 
Hearted  and  Sucker  Rivers  are  passed. 

Grand  Marais  Harbor,  45  milea 
west  of  White  Fish  Point,  with  9  fathoms 
within  the  bar,  would  be  rendered  a  se- 
cure and  commodious  harbor  by  the 
construction  of  a  canal,  or  dredging  for 
a  short  distance  inland.    "The  harbor 

158 


PICTUBED  BOCKS. 


159 


is  about  2  miles  long,  and  is  from  500  to 
1,000  yards  in  width.  .  The  western  or 
largest  portion  is  a  mile  and  one-half  in 
length,  and  lies  parallel  with  the  shore 
of  the  Lake,  with  only  a  narrow  strip  of 
sand  beach  between.  In  many  cases  this 
is  but  a  few  rods  wide,  and  at  no  point  is 
it  more  than  ten  feet  higher  than  the 
water.  The  eastern  or  further  end  curves 
inland,  and  is  a  full  half  mile  in  width. 
The  entrance  to  the  harbor  is  about  five- 
eighths  of  a  mile  in  width,  and  is  over  a 
bar  where  there  is  from  four  to  eight 
feet  of  water  at  all  times.  This  bar  is 
very  narrow,  ia  coaiposed  of  about  6  feet 
of  sand  resting  on  a  clay  and  gravel 
bottom,  and,  to  all  appearance,  never 
changes  in  shape  under  any  circum- 
stances. From  the  formation  of  the 
coast  but  very  little  change  is  likely  to 
be  made  by  the  action  of  the  waters  of 
the  lake,  even  were  cribs  built  out,  and 
we  should  not  anticipate  any  trouble 
from  the  filling  in  of  the  channel.  This 
will  not  certainly  occar  from  any  sedi- 
mentary deposit,  by  reason  of  a  current 
out  of  the  harbor,  there  being  no  percep- 
tible one,  only  two  or  three  small  streams 
emptying  into  the  harbor,  and  the  whole 
of  them  put  together  not  carrying  water 
enough  to  drive  a  single  saw.  The  har- 
bor, which  might  perhaps  more  appro- 
priately be  called  a  small  lake,  will  safely 
hold  our  entire  lake  marine.  The  water 
inside  deepens  very  rapidly,  and  once 
over  the  bar,  vessels  will  lie  in  ten  fath- 
oms at  one-half  their  length  from  the 
shore.  So  bold,  indeed,  are  thv?  shores, 
that  a  steamer  could  lie  close  enough  for 
her  gang-planks  to  reach  from  her  decks 
to  the  land." 

In  all  the  navigation  on  Lake  Supe- 
rior, there  is  none  more  dyeaded  by  the 
mariner  than  that  from  White  Fish  toint 
to  Grand  Island,  and  this  is  especially 
the  case  late  in  the  season,  when  the  fall 
Btorms  make  navigation  the  most  haz^ir- 
dous,  and  the  heaviest  and  most  val''abl« 
freights  are  on  transit.    Thia  coast  is  ex- 


posed to  every  wind  that  blows  from  the 
Lake,  the  sweep  being  of  its  full  width 
and  length,  and  there  is  not  at  present  a 
single  place  where  a  landing  can  be  made, 
or  a  lake  steamer  or  vessel  run  for  safety, 
in  the  whole  distance  of  80  odd  miles. 
The  entire  coast  Ls  made  up  either  of  tlie 
towering  cliffs  at  the  western  end,  the 
bleak  hills  of  sand  at  the  Sauble  Banks, 
coming  down  to  the  waters  edge  and 
offering  no  landing,  except  for  a  small 
boat  in  pleasant  weather,  or  the  dull  low 
beach  beyond  —  stretching  away  for 
nearly  50  miles  farther,  with  one  single 
insignificant  creek  —  the  Two  Heart 
River  —  that  a  Mackinac  boat  can  possi- 
bly enter  if  in  smooth  water,  excepting 
always  the  harbor  of  Grand  Marais  — 
to  which  there  is  no  entrance  for  large 
vessels.  This  beach  is  strewed  with 
wrecks  from  the  Pictured  Eocks  to 
White  Fish  Point. 

Point  Sable,  10  miles  farther,  is  ele- 
vated 300  feet  above  the  Lake,  but  affords 
no  harbor  in  its  vicinity,  although  two 
small  streams  enter  from  the  south.  Off 
thie  poiut  soundings  have  been  made, 
showing  a  depth  of  120  fathoms,  or  720 
feet. 

The  PicTTTBED  Eocks,  18  miles  west 
of  Point  Sable,  constitute  one  of  the 
greatest  wonders  of  Lake  Superior,  ex- 
tending along  the  coast  from  the  Chapel 
some  8  or  10  miles  to  Miner's  Castle. 
The  principal  objects  of  attraction  are 
the  Arched  Bock,  or  Grand  Portail,  and 
Sail  Bock,  which  can  be  seen  distinctly 
from  the  passing  steamer.  The  former 
is  a  bold  promontory  where  is  an  exca- 
vation, worked  by  the  waves,  extending 
about  200  feet  under  a  bluff,  which  juts 
out  into  the  waters  of  the  Lake.  The  Pic- 
tured Eocks  can  be  seen  to  the  best  ad- 
vantage, from  a  distance,  when  there  is 
a  favorable  sunlight  effect,  or  by  a  close 
view,  which  is  obtained  by  coasting  along 
the  precipitous  rocks  in  a  small  boat, 
during  calm  weather.  For  upwards  of 
100  miles  the  coast  on  the  South  Shore 


I 


160 


LAKK  SUPERIOR  GUIDE. 


IP 


presents  an  almost  unbroken  ■wilderness. 
The  soil  on  the  summit  of  the  cliffs  is 
tolerably  good,  as  indicated  by  maple 
trees. 

^liner's  River,  at  the  mouth  of  which 
stands  a  bold  promontory  called  Miner's 
Castle,  is  a  beautiful  clear  trout  stream, 
falling  into  the  lake  over  rapids. 

Sand  Point,  10  miles  east  of  the  Pic- 
tured Rocks,  is  at  the  eastern  side  of 
Grand  Island  Harbor,  one  of  the  most 
secure  bodies  of  water  to  be  found  on  the 
South  Shore.  Here  Lake  Superior  has 
its  greatest  width,  it  being  about  150 
miles  to  Nepigon  Bay. 

MuNisiNG,  2  miles  farther,  being  90 
miles  west  of  White  Fish  Point,  is  the 
first  landing  or  settlement  lying  on  the 
South  Shore.  For  the  whole  of  this  dis- 
tance the  mariner  is  threatened  with  ship- 
wreck in  stormy  weather,  which  unually 
occurs  during  the  spring  and  autumn 
months.  At  Muniaing  is  a  small  iettle- 
ment,  and  a  good  hotel  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  visitors  desirous  of  fishing  and 
visiting  the  Pictured  Rocks. 

The  Schoolcraft  Furnace  is  located  a 
short  distance  west  of  MunisiT^^j,  where 
is  a  small  stream  entering  the  bay,  on 
which  is  a  fine  fall  of  water, 

Onota,  6  miles  farther,  is  a  new  set- 
tlement, where  is  located  Bay  Furnace. 
This  is  the  county-seat  of  Schoolcraft 
county. 

Grand  Island,  8  miles  long  and  4 
miles  wide,  surrounded  by  bold  shores, 
being  elevated  300  or  400  feet,  is  a  fine 
piece  of  land,  being  for  the  most  part 
heavily  wooded  with  hard  and  soft  wof  d 
timber.  Its  shores  are  famous  for  its 
fisheries  and  romantic  scenery.  Here  is 
a  small  settlement  on  the  south  end  of  the 
island ;  on  the  north  end  stands  a  light- 
he  use,  erected  on  a  high  point  of  land, 
being  distant  38  miles  east  of  the  Mar- 
quette Light.  "  The  cliffs  on  the  north 
bank  are  broken  by  the  waves  into  pic- 
turesque caverns,  pillars,  and  arches  of 
immense  dimensions."  — Bayfield, 


Wood  Island  is  a  small  body  of  land 
lying  a  short  distance  west  of  Grand 
Island. 

Train  Point,  6  miles  west  of  Grand 
Island,  is  a  most  romantic  headland. 
Train  Island,  4  miles  farther,  is  another 
picturesque  body  of  land. 

Laughing  Fish  Point,  16  milee  west  of 
Grand  Island,  is  a  rocky  projection, 
where  may  be  witnessed  fine  scenery. 

Sable  River,  Fish  River,  Chocolate 
River,  and  Carp  River  are  all  small 
streams  flowing  into  the  Lake  between 
Laughing  Fish  Point  and  Marquette. 

Harvky,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Chocolay>  is  a  small  village,  3  miles  east 
of  Marquette,  where  is  located  a  blast 
furnace. 

On  the  completion  of  the  Marquette, 
Saut  Ste.  Marie  and  Mackinac  Railroad, 
now  being  constructed,  this  whole  section 
of  country  along  the  South  Shore  will 
be  accessible  to  tourists.  Numerous 
small  streams  will  be  crossed,  abounding 
in  brook  trout. 


Steamboat  Excursion  from  Mar- 
quette to   Qrand  Island, 

A  steamer  runs  from  Marquette  to 
Grand  Island,  Munising,  etc.,  passing 
through  Grand  Island  Harbor,  aflfording 
a  delightful  steamboat  excursion.  Sev- 
eral islands  are  passed,  and  the  steamer 
runs  to  within  a  few  miles  of  the  far- 
famed  Pictured  Rocks.  A  good  hotel  is 
located  at  Munising,  on  the  main  land, 
opposite  Grand  Island,  where  is  con- 
venient steamboat  landing. 


MARQUETTE  —  NEGAUXEE. 


161 


Marquette,  the  chief  city  of  the  Up- 
per Poniiisula,  the  county-Heat  of  Mar- 
quette Co.,  and  a  port  of  entry,  is  advan- 
tageously situated  on  the  south  shore  of 
Lake  Superior,  in  N.  latitude  40°  32'', 
W.  longitude  87°  33^,  having  a  mean 
annual  temperature  of  40°  Fahr.  The 
harbor,  formed  by  the  Bay  of  Marquette, 
ia  safe  and  commodious,  being  protected 
from  all  but  north-east  winds:  when 
blowing  in  that  direction,  vessels  are 
obliged  to  anchor  off  the  shore  for  safety. 
The  United  States  Government  have 
erected  substantial  piers,  or  breakwaters, 
for  the  further  protection  of  the  numerous 
steamers  and  sailing  vessels  which  fre- 
quent the  harbor,  taking,  annually,  an  im- 
mense amount  of  iron  ore  and  pig  metal  to 
the  eastern  ports  on  Lake  Erie.  A  Light- 
house stands  on  a  point  of  land  imme- 
diately north  of  the  anchorage,  as  a  guide 
for  mariners. 

The  settlement  of  Marquette  was  com- 
menced in  July,  1849;  in  1855,  on  the 
completion  of  tlie  Ship  Canal  at  tlie  Saut 
Ste.  Marie,  commenced  the  shipment  of 
iron  ore  to  the  Eastern  markets.  In  1859 
it  was  incorporated  as  a  village,  and  as  a 
city  February,  1871,  being  now  governed 
by  a  Mayor,  Recorder,  and  Common 
Coimcil.  It  contains  a  court-house  and 
jail;  a  public  hall;  1  Episcopal,  1  Pres- 
byterian, 1  Baptist,  1  Methodist,  and  1 
Roman  Catliolic  cliurch;  a  union  high 
school  and  3  ward  schools ;  several  hotels 
and  taverns — the  North-western  Hotel,  the 
Coles  House  and  Tremont  House — the  for- 
mer favorably  situated,  overlooking  the 
lake.  There  are  also  several  well-kept 
private  boarding-houses,  3  banks,  30  or  40 
stores  and  storehouses,  1  printing-office, 
besides  a  large  foundry,  a  rolling-mill  and 
blast  furnace,  and  machine  shops  and  fac- 
tories of  different  kinds.  Population  in 
1800,1665 ;  in  1870,4000 ;  now,  6000.  Ga.s- 
works  and  water-works  are  in  operation 
—  the  latter  affording  an  abundant  sup- 
ply of  pure  water  taken  from  Lake 
Superior. 
11 


There  are  four  extensive  piers,  ar- 
ranged for  the  transshipment  of  iron  ore 
and  pig  metal,  on  which  the  railroad 
trains  deliver  and  receive  a  great  amount 
of  freight.  Here  is  the  termimis  of  the 
Marquette,  Houghton  and  Ontonatjon  Rail- 
road, passing  along  the  south  shore  of 
Lake  Michigamme,  to  be  extended  west- 
ward to  L'Anse  and  Ontonagon,  and 
connect  with  the  other  railroads  running 
south  and  west.  The  Peninsula  Railroad 
of  Michirjan  also  unites  with  the  above 
road,  extending  to  Escanaba,  on  Green 
Bay,  05  miles. 

This  flourishing  Lake  City  is  closely 
identified  with  the  extensive  Iron  Mines 
in  the  vicinity,  being  from  12  to  30  miles 
distant,  situated  on  an  elevated  ridge, 
some  700  or  800  feet  above  the  waters  of 
Lake  Superior,  being  known  as  the  Iron 
Mountain.  There  are  now  about  fifty 
mines  extensively  and  profitably  worked, 
being  owned  by  separate  companies — the 
Jackson  Iron  Company,  the  Cleveland 
Iron  Company,  and  the  Lake  Superior 
Company  having  separate  docks  for  the 
shipment  of  iron  ore. 

The  drives  from  Marquette  to  Harvey, 
4  miles,  running  along  the  beach ;  to  Mt. 
Menard,  2 J  miles,  and  to  Colliusville  and 
Forrestville,  are  all  worthy  of  attention. 
The  boating  and  sailing  in  the  Bay  of 
Marquette,  and  to  the  islands  and  mouths 
of  several  creeks  or  rivers,  where  good 
trout  fishing  is  to  be  found,  is  a  favorite 
source  of  amusement. 


Negaunee,  Marquette  County,  Michi- 
gan, 12  miles  west  of  Marquette  and  62 
miles  north  of  P^scanaba,  is  situated  on 
the  line  of  the  Marquette,  Houghton  and 
Ontonagon  Railroad,  at  its  junction  with 
the  Peninsula  Division  of  the  Chicago  and 
North-western  Railroad.  It  is  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  the  Iron  Mountain, 
and  is  a  flourishing  village  of  about 
3500  inhabitants.  Here  are  situated  the 
Jackson  Mine,  the  McComber  Mine,  the 
Grand  Central,  and  die  Negaunee  Mine; 


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162 


LAKE  SUPERIOR  GUIDE. 


also  the  Pioneer  Furnaces,  worked  hy  tlie 
Iron  Cliflrt  Company,  altogetlier  giving 

Srofitable  employment  to  several   liun- 
red  workiiien. 

The  viUage  contains  a  town  hall,  2 
railroad  dei)ots,  3  churches,  2  hotels — the 
Ogden  House  and  Jackson  House,  —  4 
banks,  30  or  40  stores,  and  1  steam  saw- 
mill. Thousands  of  strangers  annually 
•visit  these  celebrated  mines  within  a 
xange  of  25  miles,  now  producing  alto- 
gether upwards  of  1,000,000  tons  of  ore 
yearly,  most  of  which  is  shipped  from 
Marquette,  Escanaba,  and  L'Anse  to 
Eastern  markets. 

There  are  several  Iron  Furnace  Com- 
panies in  the  vicinity  of  the  Mines,  which 
produce  annually  a  large  amount  of  pig 
metal  of  a  sui)erior  quality.  The  amount 
produced  in  1873  was  71,507  tons.  This 
mdustry  must  rapidly  increase  with  the 
product  of  the  mines. 

Ishpeming,  situated  on  the  line  of  the 
Marquette,  Houghton  and  Ontonagon 
Kailroad.  Three  miles  west  of  Negaunee 
is  another  flourishing  mining  town,  where 
is  located  the  Cleveland  Mine,  the  Lake 
Superior  Mine,  Barnum  Mine,  New 
York  Mine,  New  England  Mine,  Wil- 
liams ;Mine,  Winthrop  Mine,  and  the 
Pittsburg  and  Lake  Angeline  Mine. 
The  village  contains  a  town  hall,  3 
churches,  2  banks,  a  hotel,  and  20  or  30 
stores,  besides  a  foundrj^  and  machine 
eliop  and  several  fine  residences.  Popu- 
lation about  5000,  most  of  whom  are  em- 
ployed in  the  different  Iron  Ore  Mines. 

Beyond  Ishpeming,  on  the  line  of  the 
railroad,  are  situated  Winthrop,  3  miles. 
Greenwood,  3  miles,  Clarksburg,  4  miles, 
Humboldt,  1  mile,  and  Champion,  4  miles, 
before  arriving  at  Lake  Michigamme,  sit- 
uated 34  miles  west  of  Marquette. 

Champion  Furnace  and  Mine,  32  miles 
from  Marquette.  Here  is  a  mining  settle- 
ment containing  about  2000  inhabitants. 
The  mine  is  Touited  about  one  mile 
south-west  of  the  furnace,  where  is  a 


large  deposit  of  red  and  black  oxides  of 
iron  ore;  a  part  of  the  ore  is  taken  to  the 
furnace  and  made  into  pig  iron,  the  bal- 
ance being  sent  to  Eastern  markers  via 
Marquette. 


Michigamme,  Marquette  County,  Mich- 
igan, is  a  new  mining  town  handsomely 
situated  at  the  west  end  of  Lake  Michi- 
gamme, 38  miles  from  Marquette  and  25 
miles  from  L'Anse,  both  shipping  ports, 
and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
Micliigamme  iron  range,  where  several 
mines  are  already  opened.  In  June, 
1873,  this  town  was  destroyed  by  fire, 
the  inhabitants  having  to  flee  for  their 
lives,  the  surrounding  woods  being  also 
on  fire.  The  new  town  was  immediately 
rebuilt,  and  upwards  of  one  hundred 
stores  and  dwellings  erected  within  a 
few  months,  now  presenting  a  lively  ap- 
pearance. Here  is  a  large  steam  saw- 
mill and  an  iron  furnace  being  erected, 
contiguous  to  the  Michigamme  iron  mine. 

Lake  Michigamme  *  is  a  most  beautiful 
sheet  of  •yvater,  studded  with  several 
wooded  islands,  while  the  shore  is  very 
irregular,  presenting  many  points  and 
indentations  of  lively  appearance.  It 
abounds  in  fish  of  various  kinds,  afford- 
ing fine  sport  for  the  angler.  It  is  fed 
by  Michigamme  River,  the  outlet  flowing 
into  the  Menominee,  which  enters  Green 
Bay.  In  this  vicinity  deer  and  other 
game  abounds.  West  of  the  lake  is  an 
unexplored  wilderness,  heavily  timbered, 
and  where  iron  is  supposed  to  abound. 


*  Lake  Michigamme,  called  by  the  Indians 
"  Morsfw-ga'me  "  (largo  lake).  The  Ojibwas  clas- 
sify lakes  into  three  kinds:  Sn-ga-e'ga,  small 
lake ;  Mnshc.-ga'me,  large  lake ;  and  Git-r.he-ga'- 
me.  great  lake.  This  last  is  applied  to  the  "  Great 
Lakes  "  IndiBCximinatcly,  and  to  the  ocean. 


ESCANABA. 


103 


Marquette  to  L'Anse, 

Via  Marquette,  Houghton,  and  Ontonagon 
Railroad. 

Miles.  Stations.  Miles. 

63    makqup:tte 0 

60  Bancroft 3 

57  Bnice 3  6 

56  Morgan 1  7 

55  Eagle  Mills 1  8 

52  Carp 3  11 

51  Negaunke 1  12 

48  isiipeminq  3  15 

44  Saginaw 4  19 

42  Greenwood 2  21 

38  Clarksburgh 4  25 

37  Humboldt 1  26 

32  Cliampion 5  31 

26  MiciiioAMME 6  37 

24  SpurrMine 2  39 

16  Sturgeon 8  47 

10  Summit 6  53 

7  Palmer 3  56 

0  L'ANSE 7  63 

The  Marquette,  Houghton  and  Ontona- 
gon Railroad,  completed  63  miles,  com- 
mences at  Marquette  and  runs  westward 
by  an  ascending  grade  to  Negaunee,  12 
miles,  where  it  connects  with  the  Penin- 
sula Divison  of  the  Chicago  and  North- 
western Railroad ;  both  roads  here  first 
strike  the  iron  range  of  Lake  Superior. 
Ishpemiiig,  3  miles  farther^  is  the  centre, 
at  present,  of  the  iron  mining  interest, 
from  whence  immense  quantities  of  iron 
are  sent  to  Eastern  markets.  At  Hum- 
boldt, 26  miles  from  Marquette,  runs  a 
branch  railroad,  9  miles  in  length,  to  the 
Republican  and  Kloman  iron  mines. 
Champion,  31  miles,  and  Michigamme, 
37  miles  from  Marquette,  are  important 
stations ;  the  latter  situated  on  the  shore  of 
Lake  Michigamme.  The  road  continues 
onward  by  an  ascending  grade  to  the  Sum- 
mit, 1167  feet  above  Lake  Superior,  then 
descends  more  than  one  hundred  feet  to 
the  mile  to  L'Anse,  situated  at  the  head 
of  Keweenaw  Bay. 


Escanaba,  the  countjr-seat  of  Delta 
County,  Michigan,  is  an  important  lake 
port,  favorably  situated  for  the  sliipment 
of  iron  ore,  on  Little  Bay  de  Noc,  the 
north-western  arm  of  Green  Bay,  in  lat. 
15°  36^  N.,  long.  «7°  06'  W.,  having 
a  mean  annual  tumperatureof  41°  Falir. 
It  is  the  terminus  of  the  Peninnula  Divi- 
sion of  the  Chicago  and  North-western 
Railroad,  being  niiiS  miles  north  of  Ciii- 
cago,  and  74  mil«s  south  of  Manpiette, 
by  railroad.  It  was  first  settled  as  a 
village  in  1863,  and  now  numbers  about 
2000  inhabitants,  arid  is  fast  increasing 
in  wealth  and  population.  Here  are  a 
bank,  3  churches,  15  stores,  4  hotels,  and 
a  number  of  line  residences.  It  is  des- 
tined to  become  a  favorite  resort  during 
warm  weather.  The  Tilden  House  is 
handsomely  situated,  facing  the  bay,  with 
pleasure-grounds  attached.  Escanaba  is 
favorably  situated  for  manufacturing 
j)urposes,  here  being  already  in  oi)eration 
an  extensive  furnace,  erected  in  1872  at 
a  cost  of  $225,000,  machine  sliops,  etc. 
Tiia  Ore  Dock  at  this  place  is  very  large 
and  commodious,  from  whence  is  annu- 
ally Khipi)ed  several  hundred  thousand 
tons  of  iron  ore  to  Eastern  and  Southern 
markets.  Steamers  and  sail-vessels  run 
between  this  port  and  Chicago  ;  also,  to 
ports  on  the  Lower  Lakes  during  the 
season  of  navigation. 

At  the  entrance  to  Little  Bay  de  Noc 
stands  a  liglit-house,  where  is  a  large  and 
well-protected  harbor.  Here  usually  may 
be  seen  a  large  number  of  vessels  taking 
in  loads  of  iron  ore  and  pig  metal. 

At  Daxfs  River  Station,  13  miles  north 
of  Escanaba,  the  railroad  track  crosses  a 
line  trout  stream.  Here  farming  is  suc- 
cessfully prosecuted,  the  soil  producing 
fine  crops  of  hay,  oats,  rye,  wheat,  pota- 
toes, and  other  garden  vegetables,  the 
first  frost  here  being  in  the  latter  part  of 
September,  and  the  last  in  the  early  part 
of  May.  Strawberries,  raspberries,  whor- 
tleberries, and  cranberi '  ■  here  grow  to 
perfection. 


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164 


LAKE  SUPERIOR  GUIDE. 


Pleasure  Excursion  —  Marquette 
to  Houghton. 

There  are  but  few  if  any  more  pleasant 
or  interesting  trijxs  than  from  Maniuette 
to  Houghton  and  return  by  way  of  lake 
and  rail,  A  steamer  of  a  small  chiss 
leaves  Manjuette  every  evening  at  G.HO, 
and  afl'ordrt  passengers  a  delightful  night 
voyage  to  Houghton.  Her  aceommoda- 
tions  are  ample  for  comfort,  and  her 
officers  very  efficient  in  the  discharge  of 
tlieir  duties.  The  line  steamers  of  a 
larger  class  also  run  to  and  from  Hough- 
ton and  Marquette.  A  day  at  Houghton 
and  Hancock,  with  quarters  at  the  Doug- 
lass House,  can  be  spent  in  pleasure  or 
business,  jus  circumstances  may  require. 
The  copper  mines  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
towns  are  well  worthy  of  a  visit. 

On  the  return,  the  steamer  Ivanhoe 
can  be  taken  at  8  o'clock  in  the  morning 
from  Houghton,  making  the  trip  —  a 
most  delightful  one  in  all  respects  in 
favorable  weather  —  to  the  bright  and 
jiromising  town  of  L'Anse,  which  has 
fair  prospects  of  becoming  an  iron  me- 
tropolis of  considerable  importance. 
Here  we  are  transferred  to  the  Marquette, 
Houghton  and  Ontonagon  Railroad,  and 
whirled  across  the  greatest  in)n  region  in 
the  world,  passing  Lake  Michigamme 
and  numerous  iron  mines.  Resident 
citizens  should  not  neglect  to  make  this 
trip  as  often  as  they  need  recreation,  and 
the  tourist  will  miss  the  most  interesting 
portion  of  the  Lake  Superior  journey  if 
he  does  not  include  this  in  his  programme. 


Hotel  Accommodation. 
By  an  increase  of  hotel  accommodation, 
affording  good  fare  at  reasonable  rates, 
this  whole  section  of  country  would  be 
made  a  great  summer  resort.  Here  pure 
air  and  water,  with  an  invigorating  cli- 
mate, can  be  enjoyed  by  the  invalid  and 
eeeker  of  pleasure. 


Stannard's  Rock. 

This  dangerous  rock,  or  reef,  lies  east 
of  the  track  between  Manjuette  and  Ke- 
weenaw Point,  distant  'M  miles  east- 
south-east,  and  in  a  calm  time  was  in- 
visible. Recently  the  United  States 
Government  have  located  thereon  a 
beacon  3.'i  feet  above  water.  It  has  a 
base  of  cut  stone  9  feet  in  diameter  and 
8  feet  high,  surmounted  by  a  wrought- 
iron  shaft,  with  a  ball  and  cage  on  the 
top  painted  red.  To  the  northward  and 
westward  of  the  beacon  a  rocky  reef  ex- 
tends 30  by  320  yards  — least  water,  2 
feet.  One  thousand  and  four  hundred 
feet  west  of  the  beacon  are  two  detached 
rocks  with  8  feet  of  water.  The  sound- 
ings in  proximity  to  the  beacon  and  reef 
are  from  3i  to  10  fatiioms.  Bottom, 
rock  and  gravel.  Vessels  should  not 
approach  the  beacon  to  the  northward 
nearer  than  three-fourths  of  a  mile. 


Marquette  to  Portage  Entry. 

On  leaving  Marquette  for  Portage 
Entry  or  Keweenaw  Point,  both  distant 
70  miles;  the  steamer  runs  north  to 
Granite  Island,  12  miles;  from  thence 
N.  by  W.  58  miles  to  Keweenaw  Point. 
If  steering  for  Portage  Entry,  N.W.  by 
W.,  13  miles  from  Granite  Island  to  Big 
Bay  Point.  Big  Bay,  Salmon  Trout 
River,  and  the  Huron  Mountains  lie  to 
the  west ;  the  headlands  and  the  moun- 
tain scenery  here  present  a  line  appear- 
ance. Huron  Islands  and  Light  are  22 
miles  farther,  running  N.W.  by  W. 
This  is  a  rocky  group  of  islands  and  dan- 
gerous to  navigation.  Huron  Bay  and 
Point  Abbaye  are  passed  on  the  south- 
west ;  the  steamer  running  23  miles  west 
to  Portage  Entry ;  to  Houghton,  14  miles 
farther. 

On  the  south  lies  Keweenaw  Bay,  a  fine 
expanse  of  water,  extending  20  m'les  to 
its  head,  where  is  a  new  and  thriving 
settlement.  Here  is  also  a  Methodist  an.  I 
Roman  Catholic  Mission  on  the  opposite 
sides  of  the  bay. 


bBjasaffis™*?-?!*^; 


HURON  BAY  —  HOUGHTON. 


1G5 


Huron  Bay,  lying  east  of  Keweenaw 
Bay,  and  Koutli-west  of  Huron  Islands,  is 
land-locked,  affording  a  most  secure  har- 
bor, being  14  miles  long  and  a  good  depth 
of  water.  In  this  bay  is  situated  the  new 
town  of  Fairhaven,  being  the  outport  for 
the  Huron  Bay  Slate  Quarries,  located 
4^  miles  from  the  bay,  in  Township  51, 
Range  31.  A  tram  railway  is  being  con- 
structed to  extend  from  the  mines  to  the 
steamboat  landing.  Tlie  soil  on  the  shore 
of  Huron  Bay  is  a  sandy  loam,  very  deep, 
warm,  and  rich,  producing  good  crops. 

Arvon,  Hougliton  County,  Miciiigan, 
is  a  new  location,  wliere  is  found  slate 
of  a  good  quality,  and  iron  ore.  It  is 
situated  on  Dashing  River,  which  empties 
into  Huron  Bay,  Lake  Superior.  In  this 
vicinity  is  a  slate  belt  hundreds  of  feet  in 
width,  and  is  considered  inexhaustible. 
This  slate  and  iron  will  be  shipped  from 
Huron  Bay,  the  present  season,  to  East- 
ern and  Southern  markets. 


L'Anse,  Houghton  County,  Mich., 
la  a  new  town  favorably  situated  at  the 
head  of  Keweenaw  Bay,  where  is  a  long 
pier  and  steamboat  landing,  also  a  com- 
modious ore  dock  for  the  shipment  of 
iron  ore.  It  is  surrounded  by  picturesque 
scenery,  overlooking  tlie  Bay  of  L'Anse 
and  adjoining  shores.  The  iiarbor  is  one 
of  the  finest  on  the  whole  chain  of  lakes, 
being  perfectly  protected  and  secure  in 
all  weather.  The  water  power  of  Fall 
River,  here  emptying  into  the  bay,  is 
ample  to  drive  a  large  amount  of  ma- 
chinery, being  suitable  for  blast  furnaces 
and  mills  of  every  kind.  Large  deposits 
of  iron  ore  are  found  within  eight  or  ten 
miles,  while  a  few  miles  southward  is 
located  the  Spurr  Mountain  and  Michi- 
gamme  Iron  Mine,  producing  magnetic 
ore  of  a  high  standard.  A  L'Anse  are 
two  churches,  a  public  school-house,  a 
bank,  two  hotels,  and  one  of  a  large  class 
in  the  course  of  construction,  a  blast  fur- 
nace, a  public  warehouse,  fifteen  stores,  a 
brewery,  a  saw-mill,  and  machine-shops. 


The  Marquette,  Iloucfhion  and  Ontona- 
gon Railroad,  G3  miles  in  length,  termi- 
nates at  L'Anse,  forming,  in  i>art,  a 
through  line  of  travel  to  Green  B;iy  and 
Chiciigcj.  Steamers  of  a  large  class  run 
to  this  place  from  ports  below;  antl  a 
steamer  runs  daily  to  and  from  Hough- 
ton, 30  miles,  forming,  witli  the  railroad, 
a  tiirough  line  of  travel  to  Marquette. 

A  Methodist  and  Roman  Catholic  Mis- 
sion House  ixTf  both  situated  about  four 
miles  north  of  L'Anse,  on  opposite  sides 
of  the  bay,  where  are  Indian  settlements 
numbering  several  hundred  souls. 

On  Fall  River,  and  at  the  head  of 
L'Anse  Bav,  ia  good  trout  fishing;  the 
latter  can  be  approached  by  row-boats, 
starting  from  the  landing  at  L'Anse. 


Portage  River  and  Lake  are  navigable 
for  steamers  of  a  large  class,  by  means 
of  an  artificial  channel  running  through 
to  the  lake  for  about  7  miles.  Tlie  lake 
is  next  entered,  and  soon  Houghton  and 
Hancock  come  into  view,  being  distant 
14  miles  from  Lake  Superior,  by  the  cir- 
cuitous channel.  Here  are  extensive 
copper  mines,  which  are  profitably  work- 
ed by  a  number  of  mining  companies. 


Houghton,  Michigan,  the  county-seat 
of  Houghton  County,  and  a  port  of  entry, 
is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  Portage 
Lake,  14  miles  above  Portage  Entry,  and 
10  miles  from  Lake  Superior,  l^ing  on 
the  north-west.  By  means  of  a  river  im- 
provement and  ship  canal,  steamers  can 
run  tiirough  Portage  Lake  into  Lake 
Sujierior  on  both  sides  of  Keweenaw 
Point  —  thus  forming  one  of  the  most 
capacious  r.nd  secure  harbors  of  the  Up- 
per Lakes,  it  being  land-locked  and 
protected  by  high  hills  on  both  sides. 
The  settlement  of  Houghton  was  com- 
menced in  1854,  and  incorporated  a-s  a 
village  in  1861.  It  now  contains  a  court- 
house and  jail ;  1  Episcopal,  1  Methodist, 
and  1  Roman  Catholic  church;  1  bank; 


Iff 


ill 


166 


LAKE  SUPERIOR  GUIDE. 


51f  • , 

J        I 


4  iniblic  houses,  the  Douglas  Home  and 
the  Butlerficld  House  being  tlie  most  IVl'- 
queiited  by  viwitors;  12  or  15  storen  aiul 
se  veral  extensive  warehouyes ;  J  loiigiiton 
Ccjiper  Works  or  lioiling  Mill,  capital 
$200,000;  2  large  Btamp-niills,  using 
steam  power;  2  steaui  savv-niills;  2 
breweries,  and  several  other  manufac- 
turing establishments.  The  population 
of  the  town  is  estimated  at  2000.  This 
flourishing  mining  town,  lying  on  aside- 
hill  rising  300  or  400  feet,  is  identified 
with  the  copper  mines  in  its  inunediate 
vicinity.  There  are  several  mines  worked 
to  u  large  extent,  besides  others  of  less 
note,  which  will,  no  doubt,  soon  be  ren- 
dered productive.  Tlie  mineral  range 
of  Keweenaw  Point,  some  4  to  6  miles 
hi  width,  extends  through  all  this  section 
of  country,  being  as  yet  only  partially 
explored.  The  Isle  Koyal,  lluron,  Por- 
tage, Atlantic,  Sheldon,  and  Columbian 
are  the  principal  mines  worked  on  the 
south  side  of  the  lake. 

PoUTAOE  Lakk  is  an  irregular  body 
of  water,  about  twenty  miles  in  length, 
extending  nearly  across  Keweenaw  Point 
to  within  two  miles  of  Lake  Superior. 
Steamers  and  sail-vessels  drawing  12  feet 
can  pass  through  Portage  Entry,  and 
navigate  the  lake  with  safety.  This 
body  of  water  was  an  old  and  favorite 
thoroughfare  for  the  Indians,  and  the 
Jesuit  Fathers  who  first  discovered  and 
explored  this  section  of  the  country.  A 
ranal  of  two  miles  in  length  would  render 
this  portage  route  navigable  for  steamers 
and  sail-vessels  navigating  Lake  Supe- 
rior, thereby  reducing  the  distance  over 
100  miles.  During  the  winter  months 
the  atmosphere  is  very  clear  and  trans- 
parent in  the  vicinity  of  Houghton,  and 
all  through  Keweenaw  Point;  objects 
can  be  seen  at  a  great  distance  on  a  clear 
day,  while  sounds  are  conveyed  distinctly 
through  the   atmosphere,  presenting   a 

f)henoraenon   peculiar  to  all    northern 
atitudes.     This  is  the  season  of  health 
.  *id  pleasure  to  the  permanent  residents. 


Hancock,  Houghton  County,  Michigan, 
is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  Portage 
Lake,  opposite  to  the  vill.ige  of  Hough- 
ton, with  which  it  is  connected  by  a 
steam  ferry.  The  town  was  first  laid  out 
in  18o8,  and  now  contains  about  2000  in- 
liabitants,  including  the  mining  popula- 
tion on  the  north  side  of  the  lake,  its 
sudden  rise  and  prosperity  being  identi- 
fied with  the  rich  deposit  of  native  copper, 
in  which  this  section  of  country  abounds. 
The  site  of  the  village  is  on  a  side-hill 
rising  from  the  hike  level  to  a  height  of 
about  500  feet,  where  the  opening  to  the 
mines  is  situated.  Here  is  1  Congrega- 
tional, 1  Methodist,  and  1  Roman  Cath- 
olic church;  2  banks;  2  public  houses; 
the  Sumnei-  Mine  and  stamping-mill ;  a 
number  of  stores  and  wareliouses;  1 
steam  saw-mill,  1  barrel  factory,  1  foun- 
dry and  machine-shop,  and  other  manu- 
facturing establishments.  In  the  vicinity 
are  4  extensive  steam  stan'ping-mills, 
worked  by  the  difierent  mining  compa- 
nies— theC^uincy.Pewabic  and  Franklin. 

The  Portage  Lake  Smelling  Works  is 
an  incorporated  company,  turning  out 
amiually  a  large  amount  of  pure  mer- 
chantable copper.  The  business  of  the 
company  consists  of  fusing  and  convert- 
ing the  mineral  into  refined  metal  or 
ingots,  for  manufacturing  purposes. 

Mineral  Range  Railroad,  11  miles  in 
length,  is  finished  to  Calumet. 


The  Portage  Lake  and  River  Improve' 
ment  Company  was  chartered  in  1861,  for 
the  improvement  of  Portage  River,  en- 
tering Keweenaw  Bay,  14  miles  below 
Houghton.  An  entrance  was  cut  from 
the  bay  into  the  river,  14,000  feet  long, 
100  feet  wide,  and  12  feet  deep,  and  a 
pier  built  out  into  the  bay  on  the  east 
side  of  the  channel  entrance.  The  chan- 
nel of  the  river  was  also  dredged  so  as  to 
give  a  depth  of  11  feet  into  Portage  Lake, 
thus  enabling  the  largest  class  of  lake 
steamers  to  land  at  the  wharves  in 
Houghton  and  Hancock. 


STEAMBOAT  EXCURSIONS. 


167 


Portage  and  Lake  Superior  Ship  Canal. 

—  TluH  im|)()rtant  work  was  commenced 
in  18G8  and  linishod  in  187K,  at  a  cost 
of  about  $'J,r)00,000.  Its  length  is  21 
miles,  with  piers  (JOO  feet  in  length,  ex- 
tending out  into  Lake  Superior  on  the 
nortii,  aflording  a  safe  entrance  for  down- 
ward lioun<l  vessels.  Tiie  canal  is  100 
feet  wide,  15  feet  deep,  with  banks  rising 
from  20  to  35  feet  above  the  water.  At 
its  soutiiern  entrance  into  Portage  Lake, 
8  miles  above  Iloiigliton,  it  runs  through 
a  low  marshy  piece  of  ground,  then 
enters  tlie  lake  about  half  a  mile  wide. 
Below  Jlougliton  it  connects  with  the 
Portage  Lake  and  River  Lnprovement, 
.14  miles  in  length,  making  tiie  distance 
across  from  lake  to  lake,  24  miles. 


Steamboat  Excursions.  —  By  means  of 
the  Ship  Canal  connecting  Portage  Lake 
with  Lake  Superior,  10  miles  north-west 
of  Houghton,  and  the  Portage  Lake  and 
River  Improvement,  running  14  miles  east 
of  Houghton,  is  allcrded  most  delightful 
steamboat  excursions  during  the  summer 
months. 

On  the  upward  trip  the  steamers  run 
through  the  Lake,  about  half  a  mile  in 
width,  and  then  enter  the  Ship  Canal, 
2]  miles  in  length,  passing  on  to  the 
broad  waters  of  Lake  Superior,  where  is 
presented  a  wide  expanse  of  pure  watern 
and  billowy  waves. 

On  the  downward  trip,  bound  for 
L'Anse  or  Marq^uette,  the  steamer  runs 
east  for  a  few  miles,  and  then  enters  an 
expanse  known  as  Dollar  Bay  —  then 
enters  the  wide  waters  of  Portage  Lake, 
by  some  called  Boot-./ack  Lake,  from  its 
peculiar  shape,  resembling  a  human  leg 
and  foot,  where  enters  the  outlet  of  Torch 
Lake,  a  romantic  sheet  of  water.  Pass- 
ing downward  through  Portage  River,  a 
winding  stream,  you  soon  pass  Ed ger ton's 
Landing,  and  enter  Keweenaw  Bay  or 
Lake  Superior.  Here  is  a  long  pier,  a 
beacon  light,  and  light-house.  Proceed- 
ing southward,  a  beautiful  expanse  of 


water  la  passed  over  before  arriving  at 
L'Anse,  a  new  and  nourishing  town, 
situated  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  where  is 
a  well-kept  Hotel.  Here  is  found  good 
fishing  and  boating,  affording  fine  sport 
for  anvlers  and  pleasure  seekers. 

Calumet,  Houghton  co.,  is  an  impor- 
tant copper  mining  settlement,  situated 
12  miles  north-east  of  Hancock,  contain- 
ing a  population  of  about  3,000  iniiabi- 
tants.  Here  is  located  the  Calumet  and 
Hecla  Mine,  one  of  the  most  productive 
copper  mines  in  the  AvorJd.  In  the 
vicinity  are  situated  the  AUouez,  Kear- 
sarge,  and  Schoolcraft  Mines. 

The  Houghton  Mining  Gazette  says: 
"The  history  of  copper  mining  in  the 
new  and  old  world  fails  to  reconl  any- 
thing approacliing  a  similar  riciuiess  to 
that  of  tile  Calumet  and  Ilecla  Mine  of 
Ilougliton  county,  Lake  Superior,  and, 
in  its  progressive  developments  under 
ground,  one  is  confined  to  the  ejacula- 
tion, 'wonderful!'  The  total  luineral 
l)roduct  of  the  Calumet  and  Hecla  Mine 
for  the  year  1873  foots  up  the  enormous 
figure  of  11,551  tons."  Other  Copper 
Mines  of  nearly  equal  value  arc  located 
on  the  Mineral  Range,  extending  from 
Portage  Lake  to  Coi)per  Harbor. 

The  Mineral  Range  Railroad  runs 
through  Calumet  from  Hancock,  toward 
the  extreme  end  of  Keweenaw  Point. 
A  railroad  also  runs  to  the  conii)any'3 
Stamp  Mills,  located  on  Torch  Lake, 
from  whence  large  amounts  of  copper 
ore  are  annually  shii^ped. 

On  resuming  the  outward  trip  for 
Keweenaw  Point  and  Copper  Harbor, 
the  former  50  miles  distant,  the  steamer 
runs  north-east  50  miles  to  Manitou 
Island  Light.  This  stretch  presents  a 
fine  view  of  Mount  Bohemia  and  Mount 
Houghton,  as  well  as  the  head-lands 
along  the  coast. 

Bete  Grise  Bay  and  Lac  la  Bells 
are  beautiful  bodies  of  water,  the  latter 


1G8 


LAKE  SUPEEIOB  GUIDE. 


being  connected  with  the  bay  by  means 
of  a  canal.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  lake 
are  veins  of  copper  ore  of  a  rich  quality. 
This  place  Hhould  be  improved,  and 
made  a  resort  for  seekers  of  health  and 
pleasure.  It  is  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  Mount  Houghton,  and  of  several  line 
trout  streams. 

Keweenaw  Point  is  a  bold  i)rojec- 
tion  jutting  out  into  Lake  Sui)erior,  and 
one  of  the  most  remarkable  features  of 
this  Inland  Sea.  It  may  be  said  to  ex- 
tend GO  miles  from  S.W.  to  N.E.,  with 
an  average  width  of  15  miles.  For  this 
distance,  and  beyond,  the  region  is  cele- 
brated for  rich  copper  mines,  producing 
yearly  large  ([uantities  of  copper,  which 
IS  8hij)ped  to  eastern  markets. 

Manitou  Island,  situated  in  47°  25^ 
N.  lat.,  is  a  desolate  island,  on  which  is 
located  a  light-house  to  guide  the  mariner 
approachins;  Kewetmaw  Point.  Gull 
Eock  is  an  Islet  lying  between  Manitou 
Island  and  Keweenaw  Point,  on  which 
is  situated  a  light-house;  the  steamers 
usually  running  between  tliis  light  and 
the  main  land. 


Copper  HarboT,  Mich.,  is  situated  near 
the  extreme  end  of  Keweenaw  Point, 
in  N.  lat.  47°  30^  W.  long.  80° ;  the 
harbor,  although  somewhat  difficult  to 
enter,  is  one  of  the  best  on  Lake  Su- 
perior, being  distant  250  miles  from 
Saut  Ste.  Marie,  and  about  the  same  dis- 
tance from  Duluth,  lying  on  the  direct 
route  from  Marquette  to  Isle  Royale 
and  Silver  Islet.  The  village  contains 
about  200  inhabitants,  a  church,  a  public 
house,  and  two  or  three  stores,  and  the 
Clarke  Copper  Mine.  This  harbor  is 
destined  to  rise  in  importance  as  the 
commerce  of  the  Lakes  increase. 

Fort  Wllkins,  formerly  a  United  States 
Military  Post,  is  situated  a  short  distance 
from  the  steamboat  landing,  where  is  a 
beautiful  Lake  called  Fanny  Hoe.  In 
the  vicinity  are  copper  mines,  which 
have  been  extensively  worked,  and  are 


well  worthy  of  a  visit.  Steamers  often 
run  direct  from  this  ])ort  to  Silver  Islet, 
on  the  North  shore,  75  miles  liistant. 

The  course  pursued  in  running  from 
Copper  Harbor  to  Ontonagon,  85  miles, 
is  about  S.W.  by  W.,  x>f»««ing  Agate 
Harbor,  Eagle  Harbor,  Eagle  River,  and 
the  north  entrance  to  Portage  Lake, 
where  a  Ship  Canal  is  constructed.  This 
part  of  the  trip  around  the  South  Shore 
is  uninteresting,  so  far  a?  scenery  is  con- 
cerned. The  ground  rises  to  a  moderate 
height,  presenting  no  object  of  interest 
for  a  number  of  miles. 


Eagle  Harbor,  16  miles  west  of  Copper 
Harbor,  is  a  secure  steamboat  landing, 
with  a  light-house  at  its  entrance.  In 
the  village  are  2  churches,  a  hotel,  several 
stores  and  store-houses,  and  about  500 
inhabitants.  The  town  was  first  settled 
in  1845.  This  is  the  shipping-port  for 
several  copper  mines  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  ;  the  Amygdaloid,  Central,  Cop- 
per Falls,  Delaware,  Pennsylvania,  and 
Petheric  mines. 


Eagle  Hiver,  10  miles  farther  west, 
is  the  county  town  for  Keweenaw  county, 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  a  stream  of  the 
same  name,  where  is  a  small  harbor. 
Here  is  a  court-house  and  jail,  a  church, 
a  hotel,  4  stores,  and  several  store-houses. 
It  is  the  outlet  for  several  rich  copper 
mines,  producing  mass  and  stamped  cop- 
per. The  celebrated  Cliff  mine,  the 
Phoenix,  the  North  American,  the  St. 
Clair,  and  the  Eagle  River  mine,  are  the 
principal  mines  in  operation.  Tlie 
Mineral,  Mange  Railroad,  rimning  from 
Hancock,  when  completed,  will  extend 
to  this  place.  The  mouth  of  tlie  Luke 
Superior  Ship  Oanal  is  passed  about  20 
miles  south-west  of  Eagle  River,  where 
is  a  small  settlement. 

On  the  north  sid?  of  Keweenuw  Point, 
in  the  distance,  are  seen  the  high  lands 
which  form  the  rich  copper  range  of  this 
region,  extending  S.  W.  for  about  80  miles. 


ONTONAGON  —  LA  POINTE. 


1G9 


Ontonagon,  Ontonagon  CO.,  Mich., 
336  miles  from  the  Saut  Ste.  Marie,  is 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  tlie 
same  name.  The  river  is  about  200  feet 
wide  at  its  raoutli,  with  a  sulficient  depth 
of  water  over  the  bar  for  steamers.  The 
village  contains  3  churches,  a  good  hotel, 
smelting  works,  2  steam  tanneries,  1 
grist-mill,  2  steam  saw-mills,  and  10  or 
12  stores  and  store-houses,  and  800  in- 
habitants. 

In  this  vicinity  are  located  the  Minne- 
sota, the  National,  the  Kockland,  and 
several  other  productive  copper  mines. 
The  ore  is  found  from  12  to  15  miles 
from  the  landing,  being  imbedded  in  a 
range  of  high  Jiills  traversing  Keweenaw 
Point  from  N.E.  to  S.W.  for  about  100 
miles.  Silver  is  here  found  in  small 
quantities,  intermixed  with  the  copper 
ore,  which  abounds  in  great  masses. 

The  Silver  Mines,  situated  on  Iron 
Kiver,  12  or  15  miles  west  of  Ontonagon, 
are  attracting  great  attention. 

A  good  plank  road  runs  from  Ontona- 
gon to  near  the  Adventure  Mine,  and 
other  mines,  some  12  or  14  miles  distant, 
where  commences  the  copper  range  of 
hills. 

The  Marquette,  Houghton  and  Onton- 
agon Railroad,  and  the  Oshkosh  and  Onton- 
agon Railroad,  are  both  in  progress  of 
construction,  and  when  completed  will 
aftbrd  great  facilities  to  this  section  of 
country.  The  distance  from  Ontonagon 
to  Isle  Royale,  attached  to  Michigan,  is 
60  miles,  and  to  the  mouth  of  Pigeon 
Eiver,  Minn.,  is  about  70  miles. 


Bockland,  Ontonagon  county,  situated 
13  miles  south-east  of  Ontonagon,  is  a 
flourishing  mining  village.  In  the 
vicinity  are  located  the  Minnesota, 
National,  Rockland,  and  Superior  Cop- 
per Mines.  The  Minnesota  Mine  was 
formerly  the  most  productive  mine  on 
Lake  Superior,  producing  large  quanti- 
ties of  mass  copper,  but  is  now  eclipsed 
by  the  Calumet  and  Hecla. 


The  Porcupine  Mountain,  lying  20 
miles  west  of  Ontonagon,  is  a  bold  head- 
land that  can  distinctly  be  seen  at  a  great 
distance,  rising  some  1,300  feet  above  the 
lake  surface. 

Michigan  Island  and  Light,  lying  60 
miles  west  of  Ontonagon,  is  the  next  ob- 
ject of  interest.  This  is  the  easternmost 
of  the  group  of  islands  known  as  the 
Apostle  Islands  ;  they  consist  of  some 
20  islands  of  different  sizes,  most  of  which 
are  uninhabited,  being  for  the  most  part 
clothed  with  forest  trees  of  a  small 
growth.  Madeline  Island,  the  largest  of 
the  group,  is  in  part  cidtivated.  These 
islands  are  all  attached  to  Ashland 
county,  Wisconsin. 

The  names  of  the  Islands,  as  desig- 
nated on  the  Government  chart,  are  as 
follows:  Michigan  (Light),  Madeline, 
Ikisswood,  Hermit,  Stockton,  Oak,  Man- 
itou,  Outer  (Light),  Cat,  Iron  wood, 
South  Twin,  North  Twin,  Otter,  Kockv, 
Bear,  Devil,  Raspberry  (Light),  York, 
Sand,  Eagle,  and  Steamboat.  Good  an- 
chorage and  protection  from  all  winds 
can  be  found  anywhere  within  the  Apos- 
tle Islands,  with  a  depth  of  water  from 
six  to  twenty  fathoms. 

Chaquamegon  Bay  and  Point,  situated 
south  of  Madeline  Island,  form  a  capa- 
cious harbor,  at  the  head  of  Avhich  is  sit- 
uated the  town  of  Ashland. 


La  Pointe,  78  miles  west  of  Ontonagon, 
situated  on  the  south  end  of  Madeline 
Island,  the  largest  of  the  Apostle  Islands, 
is  one  of  the  oldest  settlements  on  Lake 
Sujjcrior ;  it  was  first  peopled  by  the 
French  .lesuits  and  traders  in  16S0, 
being  420  miles  west  of  the  Saut  Ste. 
Marie,  which  was  settled  about  the  same 
time.  The  mainland  and  islands  in  this 
vicinity  have  been  tor  many  ages  the 
favorite  abode  of  the  American  Indian, 
now  lingering  and  fading  away  as  the 
country  is  being  opened  and  settled  by 
the  white  race. 


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170 


LAKE  SUPERIOR  GUIDE. 


The  village  now  contains  200  inhab- 
itants, most  of  whom  are  half-breeds  and 
French.  Here  is  an  old  Roman  Catholic 
church,  and  a  Methodist  church ;  2  hotels, 
2  stores,  and  several  coopering  establish- 
ments for  the  making  of  fish  barrels. 
The  harbor  and  steamboat  landing  are 
on  the  south  end  of  the  island,  where 
may  usually  be  seen  fishing-boats  and 
other  craft  navigating  this  part  of  Lake 
Superior. 

Wheat,  rye,  barley,  oats,  peas,  pota- 
toes, and  other  vegetables  are  raised  on 
the  island.  Apples,  cherries,  gooseber- 
ries and  currants  are  raised  in  the  gar- 
dens at  La  Pointe.  The  wild  fruits  are 
plums,  cranberries,  strawberries,  red 
raspberries,  and  whortleberries.  The 
principal  forest-trees  on  the  island  are 
maple,  pine,  hemlock,  birch,  poplar  and 
cedar. 


Bayfield,  capital  of  Bayfield  Co., 
"Wis.,  is  favorably  situated  on  the  south- 
ern shore  of  Lake  Superior,  80  miles  east 
of  its  western  terminus,  and  3  miles  west 
of  La  Pointe,  being  80  miles  west  of  On- 
tonagon. The  harbor  is  secure  and  ca- 
pacious, being  protected  by  the  Apostle 
Islands,  lying  to  the  north-east.  The 
town  plot  rises  from  60  to  80  feet  above 
the  waters  of  the  lake,  afTording  a  splendid 
view  of  the  bay,  the  adjacent  islands  and 
headlands.  Its  commercial  advantages 
are  surpassed  by  no  otiier  point  on  Lake, 
Superior,  being  on  the  direct  route  to  St. 
Paul,  Minn.,  and  the  Upper  Mississippi. 
Here  are  situated  a  Presbyterian,  a 
Methodist,  and  a  Roman  Catholic  church, 
2  hotels,  4  stores,  2  warehouses,  1  steam 
fiaw^mill,  and  several  mechanics'  shops. 
Population  in  1870,  400. 

La  Pointe  Bay,  on  the  west  side  of 
which  is  situated  the  port  of  Bayfield,  is 
a  large  and  safe  body  of  water,  being 
protected  from  winds  blowing  from  every 
point  of  the  compass.  The  shores  of  the 
islands  and  mainland  are  bold,  while  the 


harbor  affords  good  anchorage  for  the 
whole  fleet  of  the  lakes. 

Tlie  Indian  Agency  for  the  Chippewa 
tribe  of  Indians  residing  on  the  borders 
of  Lake  Superior,  have  their  headquar- 
ters at  Bayfield. 

Ashland,  Ashland  Co.,  Wisconsin,  is 
most  favorably  situated  at  the  head  of 
Cha-qua-me-gor  Bay,  18  miles  south  of 
Bayfield  and  70  miles  east  of  Superior 
City,  by  proposed  railroad  route.  The 
town  is  locatf  d  ou  a  level  table-land, 
elevated  about  thirty  feet  above  the 
waters  of  the  bay,  having  a  depth  of  12 
or  lo  feet.  It  is  regularly  laid  out  on 
streets  running  parallel  to  the  water's 
edge  for  a  distance  of  two  miles,  and 
presents  a  fine  appearance.  Here  are 
erected  three  docks  or  steamboat  land- 
ings and  a  long  railroad  dock,  4  ware- 
houses, 16  stores,  2  churches,  6  hotels  or 
taverns,  2  steam  saw-mills,  1  sash,  door 
and  blind  factory,  and  1  printing-office 
and  weekly  paper,  the  Ashland  Press.  The 
village  contains  about  1,000  inhabitants. 
A  small  steamer  runs  daily  between 
Ashland,  La  Pointe  and  Bayfield,  while 
larger  steamers  stop  on  their  upward 
and  downward  ])assage  from  Dnluth, 
Miiui.  The  harbor  is  one  of  the  largest 
and  safest  on  Lake  Superior. 

The  Wisconsin  Central  Railroad  termi- 
nates at  Ashland,  extending  southward 
to  Menasha,  Wis.,  240  miles,  there  con- 
necting with  railroads  running  north, 
south  and  east,  forming  in  part  a  through 
line  of  travel  to  Milwaukee,  Chicago, 
etc.  Here  are  the  headquarters  of  the 
!rT3rthern  Division  of  the  above  railroad, 
where  will  be  erected  machine-shops,  etc. 

Houghton  Point,  9  miles  south  of  Bay- 
field, and  the  same  distance  north  of 
Ashland,  is  a  delightful  location,  where 
is  being  formed  a  settlement  for  perma- 
nent residence.  Here  it  is  intended  by 
the  proprietor,  F.  Prentice,  Esq.,  to  erect 
a  Summer  Hotel  for  the  accommodation 


m 


THE  APOSTLE  ISLANDS. 


171 


of  visitors  resorting  to  Lake  Superior  for 
health  and  pleasure.  A  steamer  stops 
daily  at  the  landing  on  the  route  between 
Bayfield  and  Ashland. 

The  Penoka  Iron  Range,  lying  25  miles 
south  of  Ashland,  is  an  immense  deposit 
of  magnetic  ore  of  a  rich  (pudity,  ex- 
tending 30  or  35  miles  east  and  west,  ele- 
vated from  800  to  1,200  feet  above  Lake 
Superior.  The  line  of  the  railroad  runs 
through  this  range,  and  the  iron  ore  will 
be  shipped  from  Ashland.  The  Iron 
Mining  Companies  already  formed  are 
the  Ashland  Iron  Company,  Magnetic 
Iron  Company,  La  Pointe  Iron  Com- 
pany, and  the  Wisconsin  Iron  Mining 
and  Smelting  Company.; 

The  three  northern  counties  of  Wis- 
consin bordering  on  Lake  Superior  are 
Ashland,  including  the  Apostle  Islands, 
Bayjidd  and  Douglas.  These  counties 
are  but  sparsely  populated,  but  will,  no 
doubt,  rapidly  increase  when  the  rail- 
roads now  in  jjrogress  of  construction 
shall  be  completed  from  Duluth  and  Su- 
I)erior  City  to  Montreal  River,  and 
thence  to  Marquette,  Mich.,  also,  the  pro- 
posed railroads  running  south  to  diifereut 
points  from  Ashland. 

Numerous  small  streams  flow  into 
Lake  Superior,  rising  in  the  northern 
portion  of  the  above  counties,  while  the 
southern  portion  is  drained  by  the  St. 
Croix  River  and  Chippewa  River,  flow- 
ing south  into  the  Mississippi  River. 
On  the  borders  of  the  latter  streams 
there  is  an  immense  amount  of  pine  tim- 
ber and  much  good  farming  land,  pro- 
ducing wheat,  oats,  potatoes  and  other 
vegetables.  The  lumbering  business  and 
fishing  are  at  the  present  time  the  main 
support  of  the  inhabitants. 

The  principal  streams  flowing  into 
Lake  Superior  fropi  Wisconsin  are  Mon- 
treal River,  Bad  River,  White  River, 
Fish  River.  Pike's  River,  Sand  River, 
Sipkowit  River,  Brule  or  Burnt  Wood 
River,  and  Nemadji  River. 


Odanah,  Ashland  Co.,  is  an  Indian 
village  situated  on  Bad  River,  4  miles 
from  the  lake.  At  this  place  is  estab- 
lished the  Odanah  Mission,  where  are  two 
churches,  a  Presbyterian  and  Roman 
Catholic,  a  school-house  and  a  nuint)er 
of  dwellings.  Here  are  good  farming 
lands,  being  cultivated  by  the  Indians 
under  the  direction  of  the  government 
farmer. 

Maskeg  or  Bad  River  rises  in  the 
southern  part  of  Ashland  County,  and 
flows  northerly  through  the  Penoka  Iron 
Range  into  Lake  Superior,  allbrding 
good  water  contiguous  to  the  mines. 
The  valley  contains  much  good  farming 
land,  and  abounds  in  timber  of  diflerent 
kinds. 

Montreal  River,  forming  in  part  the 
boundary  between  the  States  of  Wiscon- 
sin and  Michigan,  enters  Lake  Superior 
some  10  or  12  miles  east  of  Bad  River. 


The  Apostle  Islands. — The  follow- 
ing description  of  these  romantic  islands 
is  copied  from  Owen's  Geological  Survey 
of  Wisconsin,  etc. 

"  When  the  waters  of  Lake  Superior 
assumed  their  present  level,  tliese  islands 
were  doubtless  a  part  of  the  promontory, 
which  I  have  described  as  occui)ving  the 
space  between  Chaquamegon  Bay  and 
Brule  River.  They  are  composed  of 
drift-hills  and  red  clay,  resting  on  sand- 
stone which  is  occasionally  visible.  In 
the  lapse  of  ages,  the  winds,  waves,  and 
currents  of  the  lakes  cut  away  channels 
in  these  soft  materials,  and  finally  sepa- 
rated the  lowest  parts  of  the  promon- 
tory into  islands,  and  island-rocks,  now 
twenty-three  in  number,  which  are  true 
outliers  of  the  drift  and  sandstone, 

"  At  a  distance  they  appear  like  main- 
land, with  deep  bays  and  points,  gradu- 
ally becoming  more  elevated  to  the  west- 
ward. '  lie  au  Chene,'  or  Oak  Island,  which 
is  next  the  Detour  (or  mainland),  is  a 
pile  of  detached  drift,  250  or  300  feet 
high,  and  is  the  highest  of  the  group. 


m^ 


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ittii'i 


172 


LAKE  SUPERIOR  GUIDE. 


"W" 


Madeline,  *  Wan-ga-ba-me '  Tslaml,  is  the 
largest  (on  which  lies  La  Pointe),  being 
13  miien  long,  from  north-east  to  south- 
west, and  has  an  average  of  3  miles  in 
breadth.  "  Muiv-quaw  "  or  Bear  Island, 
and  "Eshquagenfleg"  or  Outer  Island, 
are  about  equal  in  size,  being  six  miles 
long  and  two  and  a  half  wide. 

"  They  embrat^e  in  all  an  area  of  about 
400  square  miles,  of  whicli  one-half  is 
water.  The  soil  in  some  places  is  good, 
but  the  major  part  would  be  difficult  to 
clear  and  cultivate.  The  causes  to  which 
I  have  referred,  as  giving  vise  to  thickets 
of  evergreens  along  the  coast  of  tlie  lake, 
operate  here  on  ail  sides,  and  have  cov- 
ered almost  the  whole  surface  with  cedar, 
birch,  aspen,  hemlock,  aiul  pine.  There 
are,  however,  patches  of  sugar-tree  land, 
and  natural  meadows. 

"  The  waters  around  the  islands  afford 
excellent  white  fish,  trout,  and  siskowit, 
which  do  not  appear  to  diminish,  after 
many  years  of  extensive  fishing  for  the 
lower  lake  markets.  For  trout  and  sis- 
kowit, which  are  caught  with  a  line  in 
deep  water,  the  best  ground  of  the  neigh- 
borhood is  off  Bark  Point  or  '  Point 
Ecorce'  of  the  French.  Speckled  or 
brook  trout  are  also  taken  in  all  the 
small  streams. 

"  That  portion  of  the  soil  of  the  islands 
fit  for  cultivation,  produces  pcHaioes  and 
all  manner  of  garden  vegetables  and 
roots  in  great  luxuriance.  In  the  flat, 
wet  parts,  both  the  soil  and  climate  are 
favorable  to  grass,  and  the  crop  is  cer- 
tain and  stout.  Wheat,  oats,  and  barley 
do  well  on  good  soil  when  well  cultivated. 

"In  regard  to  health,  no  portion  of 
the  continent  surpasses  the  Apostle 
Islands.  In  the  summer  months  they 
present  to  the  residents  of  the  South  the 
most  cool  and  delightful  resort  that  can 
be  imagined,  and  for  invalids,  especially 
snch  as  are  afiected  in  the  lungs  or  liver, 
the  uniform  bracing  atmosphere  of  Lake 
Superior  produces  surprising  and  bene- 
ficial effects." 


On  leaving  Bayfield  for  Duluth,  the 
steamer  runs  northward  to  Oak  and 
Raspberr^y  Islands,  then  westward,  pass- 
ing withm  sight  of  both  shores  of  the 
lake,  which  here  contract  to  20  or  30 
miles  in  width,  narrowing  as  you  ap- 
proach the  mouth  of  St.  Louis  River, 
where  stands  a  light-house  and  Superior 
City  —  Duluth  being  situated  at  the  head 
of  Minnesota  Point,  some  six  miles 
farther.  Here  a  grand  view  is  pre- 
sented, taking  in  both  the  Wisconsin 
and  Minnesota  shores  —  the  former  is 
low  and  wooded,  while  the  latter  rises  by 
a  steep  ascent  some  300  or  400  feet  above 
the  water's  edge  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance. 

The  North  Shore  of  Lake  Superior, 
attached  to  the  State  of  Minnesota,  ex- 
tends N.E.  by  E.  about  150  nulcs,  from 
Duluth  to  Pigeon  River  and  Isle  Royale. 
This  coast  is  liighly  interesting,  witli  oc- 
casional good  harbors, — Agate  Ray,  Bur- 
lington Bay,  Encampment  Island,  Tk\aver 
Bay,  and  Good  Harbor  Bay  allbrding  the 
best  landings.  The  land  in  many  places 
is  elevated  and  clothed  for  the  most  j)art 
with  evergreens,  sucl  as  pine,  spruce, 
hemlock,  etc. 

The  City  of  Superior,  the  county- 
seat  of  Douglas  County.  It  is  in  N.  lat. 
46°  38^ ;  W.  long.  91°  03' ;  niean  annual 
temperature  40°  Fahr.  It  is  advanta- 
geously situated  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Bay  of  Superior,  formed  by  the  Minne- 
sota and  Wisconsin  Points;  between  these 
points  is  the  entry  to  the  harbor  through 
which  is  discharged  the  waters  of  the 
St.  Louis  and  the  Nemadji  Rivers;  the 
former  being  one  of  the  largest  tributa- 
ries of  Lake  Superior.  The  United 
States  Government  recently  made  an 
appropriation  of  $189,000,  which,  in  the 
opinion  of  competent  engineers,  is  suf- 
ficient to  make  the  harbor  of  Superior 
what  it  was  by  nature  designed  to  be,  — 
one  of  the  finest  harbors  on  the  conti- 
nent; it  is  Beven  miles  in  length  and 


^■^ 


CITY  OP   DULUTH. 


173 


three-fourths  of  a  mile  in  width,  afTord- 
in<?  a  sufficient  depth  of  water  for  the 
largest  class  of  Lake  Steamers. 

Superior  was  surveyed  and  laid  out  in 
June,  1854,  rapidly  increasing  in  popula- 
tion tnitil  the  year  1857  ;  since  that  pe- 
riod it  has  slowly  increased  in  numbers, 
there  now  being  about  1,200  inhabitants. 
Here  is  a  court-house  and  jail,  four 
churches,  one  hotel  (the  Avery  House), 
ten  stores  and  store-houses,  three  steam 
saw-mills,  one  steam  planing-mill  and 
sash  factory,  one  printing-office,  one  tan- 
nery, and  several  meciianic  sliops.  Tlie 
fisheries  off  the  Minnesota  and  Wiscon- 
sin Points  are  extensively  and  profitably 
carried  on,  where  are  annually  taken 
large  quantities  of  white-fisli,  mackinac 
trout,  and  siskowit.  This  town,  favored 
by  natural  advantages,  is  destined  soon 
to  have  railroad  facilities.  A  road  is 
already  projected  to  pass  eastward  from 
Duluth,  across  Rice's  Point,  toward  the 
Straits  of  Mackinac,  and  another  to  ap- 
proach Superior  from  the  south-east. 

Minnesota  Point  is  a  strip  of  land  jut- 
ting out  into  the  Lake  some  seven  or 
eigixt  miles,  on  the  end  of  wliich  is  a 
light-house,  to  guide  the  mariner  into 
the  Bay  of  Superior. 

Duluth,  St.  Louis  Co.,  Minn.,  a  city 
and  port  of  entry,  is  most  advantageously 
situated  at  the  head  of  Lake  Superior, 
near  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Louis  River,  in 
N.  lat.  46°  38^  W.  long.  92°  10^  being 
elevated  600  feet  above  the  Ocean,  the 
ground  rising  in  the  rear  to  the  height 
of  300  feet.  Mean  annual  temperature, 
40°  Fahr.  It  is  distant  from  Buffalo,  via 
the  Great  Lakes,  1,200  miles,  and  from 
Quebec,  via  the  St.  Lawrence  River, 
1,750  niiles ;  from  St.  Paul,  by  railroad, 
155  miles,  and  from  Chicago,  565  miles ; 
from  the  Red  River  of  the  North,  252 
miles ;  from  the  Upper  Missouri  River, 
450  miles,  and  from  Puget  Sound,  by  the 
proposed  line  of  the  Northern  Pacific 
Hatlroad,  1,750  nailea;  making  the  dis- 


tance across  the  Continent,  by  Railroad 
and  Steamer,  witii  one  transshipment, 
3,500  miles.  This  distance  can  l)e  short- 
ened 500  miles  by  tlie  proposed  Inter- 
national Route  through  Canada. 

This  City,  in  four  years,  has  increased 
from  a  small  village  to  a  lii)urishing 
mart  of  commerce.  It  is  now  an  incor- 
porated City  with  an  active  population 
of  about  4,000  inhal)itants,  being  gov- 
erned by  a  mayor  and  board  of  alder- 
men. The  streets  are  wide  and  regular, 
crossing  each  other  at  right  angles. 
Within  the  past  three  years  nearly  fif- 
teen miles  of  streets  have  been  opened, 
afibrding  ready  access  to  all  parts  of  the 
town.  A  breakwater  is  completed  nearly 
500  feet  from  the  shore,  behind  which  are 
located  the  docks  of  the  Lake  Superior 
and  Mississippi  Railroad  and  the  grain 
elevator.  Alongside  the  docks  vessels 
can  lay  in  perfect  security  during  the 
severest  gales.  The  Citizens'  dock,  40 
feet  in  width,  and  extending  600  feet  into 
the  Lake,  is  completed,  afibrding  ami)le 
accommodation  for  steamers  and  other 
lake  craft.  The  Ship  Canal  through 
Minnesota  Point,  which  affords  access 
to  the  inner  harbor  in  the  Bay  of  Du- 
luth, has  been  completed,  disconnecting 
the  point  with  the  mainland.  This  canal 
will  be  1,200  feet  in  length  and  250  feet 
wide,  and  afford  1 4  feet  of  water.  The 
Union  Improvement  and  Elevator  Com- 
pany have  finished  an  elevator  with  a 
storage  capacity  of  500,000  bushels  of 
grain,  and  capable  of  unloading  twenty 
cars  per  hour,  and  of  handling  10,000,000 
bushels  during  the  season  of  navigation. 
There  is  also  erected  three  extensive 
warehouses,  being  about  600  feet  long  by 
60  feet  wide.  Granite  is  found  in  large 
quantities  in  and  about  Duluth.  The 
madiinery  for  dressing  this  stone  is  now 
on  the  ground,  and  the  buildings  neces- 
sary for  its  working  liave  been  erected. 
This  trade  will,  no  doubt,  become  large 
and  important,  as  the  stone  is  well  adaptr 
ed  for  building  purposes. 


i:  t 


i\m 


Mi 


iliii|{ 


: 
■ 


174 


LAKE  SUPEKIOR  GUIDE. 


Here  is  a  United  States  land-office,  a 
court-house  and  jail,  6  cliurches  of  dif- 
ferent denominations,  4  public  schools, 
a  public  library  and  reading-room,  and 
a  xoung  Men's  Christian  Association ; 
3  banks,  3  printing-offices,  a  foundry, 
machine  shops,  3  steam  saw -mills,  2 
planing-mills,  and  several  other  manu- 
facturing establishments;  numerous  stores 
for  wholesale  and  retailpurposes;  3hotels, 
the  Ciark  House  and  Hay  Vieiv  House  be- 
ing situated  near  the  Kailroad  and  Steam- 
boat landings.  Thebuildingsof  all  kinds 
now  number  about  700,  some  of  them 
being  first  class  brick  structures. 

An  extensive  and  magnificent  view  is 
aflbrded  from  the  top  of  the  Granite 
Quanij,  within  the  limits  of  Duluth, 
elevated  about  100  feet ;  it  is  of  the  most 
grand  and  interesting  character  imagin- 
al)le  when  taking  in  all  surroundings. 
Looking  eastward  on  the  right  hand  lies 
St.  Louis  Bay  and  Eice's  I'oint ;  in  front 
is  seen  the  beautiful  Bay  of  Superior, 
Minnesota  Point,  and  the  City  of  Supe- 
rior in  the  distance;  while  on  the  left 
hand  is  seen  the  City  of  Duluth,  the  inner 
and  outer  harbor,  and  the  broad  waters 
of  Lake  Superior  extending  eastward  as 
far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  here  and  there 
being  visible  lake  craft  of  different  di- 
mensions, vrhile  the  moving  train  of  cars 
at  your  feet  pr-^sent  altogether  a  sight 
unequalled  in  uiiy  other  part  of  the  coun- 
try. The  future  of  this  grand  prospect 
it'is  hard  to  conceive,  when  here  will  be 
centred  two  rival  cities  numbering  their 
tens  of  thousands  of  inhabitants,  and  the 
surrounding  waters  alive  with  commerce. 


Harbor  Improvements. 

A  breakwater  has  been  built  by  the 
Lake  Superior  and  Mississippi  Railroad, 
at  a  cost  of  about  $85,000,  and  the  neces- 
sarily accompanying  docks,  about  $(50,- 
000  more  ;  a  Citizens'  Dock,  in  the  nature 
of  an  outside  harborage,  costing  neaHy 
$50,000 ;  the  Ship  Canal  through  Minne- 
sota Point,  constituting  a  safe  and  reli- 
able entrance  for  the  Inner  or  Bay  Har- 
bor, costing  the  city  over  $100,000. 

The  Dyke,  extending  from  liice's  Point 
to  Minnesota  Point,  was  finished  in 
March,  1872 ;  it  gives  to  Duluth  an 
inner  harbor  in  the  bay  of  two  square 
miles,  the  expense  of  which  was  $40,000. 

Railroads. 
Here  commences  the  Lake  Superior  and 
Mississippi  Hailroud  and  the  Northern  Pa- 
cific Railroad,  the  one  running  to  St.  Paul, 
155  miles,  the  other  being  completed  to 
Bismarck,  on  the  Missouri  River,  450 
miles,  connecting  with  the  Upper  Missis- 
sippi River  and  the  Red  River  of  the 
North. 

Steamboat  Lines. 

Lines  of  steamers  run  from  Buffiilo, 
on  Lake  Erie,  and  Chicago,  on  Lake 
Michigan,  about  1,200  miles,  to  Duluth. 
Steamers  also  run  from  <  )llingwood  and 
Sarnia,  Canada,  to  Di  ith,  altogether 
carrying  large  numbers  of  passengers 
and  an  inmiense  amount  of  freight  to 
and  from  the  lower  lake  ports.  Steamers 
also  run  from  Duluth  to  Ontonagon, 
Houghton  and  Marquette,  landing  at  the 
intermediate  ports  on  the  South  Shore. 


? 


mariner's  guide. 


Mariner's  Ouidf"  to  the  Upper  Lakes. 


175 


II 


Light-Houses  on  Lake  Hukc. 

1.  Fort  Gratiot,  43°  N.  lat.,  situated  at 
the  head  of  St.  Clair  River,  Mich. ;  ele- 
vated 82  feet.  Marks  entrance  from 
Huron  into  St.  Clair  River,  (ioderich, 
Canada,  N.E.  by  N.  63  miles. 

2.  Point  aux  Barques,  44°  V  N.  lat.,  on 
eastern  side  of  entrance  into  Saginaw 
Bay;  elevated  88  feet.  Tiuinder  Bay 
Island  light,  N.  by  W.  \  N.,  74  miles. 

3.  Charily  Island,  at  the  mouth  of  Sagi- 
naw Bay;  elevated  45  feet.  Saginaw 
Bay  light-house  S.W.  %  S.,  35  miles. 

4.  Tawas,  on  Ottawa  Point,  north-  west 
shore  of  Saginaw  Bay,  Mich. ;  elevated 
54  feet.  Charity  Island  light  bears  S. 
15i  miles. 

5.  Sturgeon  Point,  on  the  western  shore 
of  Lake  Huron,  24  miles  south  of  Thun- 
der Bay  Island ;  elevated  69  feet.  Point 
aux  Barques  light,  S.S.E.  \  E.,  54  miles. 

6.  Thunder  Bay  Island,  45°  2^  N.  lat., 
north  side  of  entrance  to  Thunder  Bay, 
Mich. ;  elevated  59  feet.  Sturgeon  Point 
light,  S.  by  W.  23  miles.  Great  Duck 
Island,  Canada,  N.  by  E.  J  E.,  43  miles. 

7.  Presque  Isle,  about  25  miles  north- 
west of  Thunder  Bay  light ;  elevated  123 
feet.  A  coast  light  on  the  northern  point 
of  the  Peninsula.  The  Detour  light 
bearing  N.N.W.  i  W.,  48  miles. 

8.  Spectacle  Reef,  situated  to  the  eastward 
of  the  entrance  to  the  Straits  of  Macki- 
nac, in  Lake  Huron ;  elevated  32  feet. 
Bois  Blanc  light-house  W.  by  N.,  14 
miles;  Mackinac  Island  (Fort  Holmes), 
\V.  by  N.  f  N.,  24  miles ;  Detour  light- 
house N.E.  J  N.,  16J  miles. 

9.  Cheboygan,  on  the  mainland  oppo- 
site Bois  Blanc  Island  ;  elevated  37  feet. 
Marks  entrance  into  the  south  channel 
of  the  Straits  of  Mackinac.  Old  Eort 
Mackinac  on  the  main,  N.W.  by  W.  i 
W.,  17  miles. 

10.  Bois  Blanc,  on  the  north  side  of 
Bois  Blanc  Island,  in  the  Straits  of  Mack- 


inac ;  elevated  53  feet.  The  Detour  light 
bearing  E.N.E.,  26  miles.  Fort  Mackinac 
W.N.W.  *  W.,  9i  miles. 

11.  A  Light-house  is  to  be  erected  .at 
Mackinac  Island,  and  one  is  erected  near 
Old  Mackinac,  in  the  Straits  of  Mackinac, 
at  the  entrance  to  Lake  Micliigau. 

12.  Detour,  45°  57'  N.  lat.,  situated  at 
the  moutii  of  the  River  St.  Mary,  Lake 
Huron,  Mich. ;  elevated  75  feet.  Marks 
entrance  from  Lake  Huron  into  St. 
Mary's  River.  Island  of  Mackinac  30 
miles  west.  Saut  Ste.  Marie,  55  miles 
N.N.W.  Presque  Isle  light  S.S.E.  ^  E., 
47  i  miles. 

Light-Houses  on  Lake  Superior. 

1.  Round  Island,  46°  26'  N.  lat.,  situ- 
ated in  White  Fish  Bay,  near  entrance 
to  St.  Mary's  River;  elevated  50  feet. 
Light  on  square  stone  tower,  rising  from 
the  keeper's  dwelling.  A  guide  to  and 
from  the  entrance  to  Lake  Superior. 

2.  Point  Iroquois,  on  south  shore  of 
White  Fish  Bay ;  elevated  72  feet.  The 
light  is  on  a  red  brick  tower,  connected 
with  the  keeper's  dwelling.  Parisien 
Island,  N.  bv  W.  ^  W.,  12  mi les.  White 
Fish  Point,  N.W.  i  N.,  25  miles. 

3.  White  Fish  Point,  46°  46'  N.  lat,,  on 
White  Fish  Point,  Mich.;  elevatet>  76 
feet.  Iron  pile  structure.  A  guide  to 
and  from  White  Fish  Bay,  at  the  S.E. 
extreme  of  Lake  Superior.  The  south- 
west point  of  the  shoal  off  Caribou  Island, 
Canada,  bears  N.W.  i  W.,  55  miles ;  Man- 
itou  Island,  W.N.W  i  W.,  131  miles; 
Montreal  Island,  Can.,  N.  bv  E.,  37  miles. 

4.  Big  Sable,  at  Big  Sable  Point,  on 
the  south  shore  of  Lake  Superior,  be- 
tween White  Fish  Point  and  Grand 
Island,  distant  19  miles  from  Grand  Por- 
tal (Pictured  Rocks),  27  miles  to  Grand 
Island  light,  and  60  miles  from  Mar- 
quette. 

6.  Grand  Island,  on  north  point  of 


ii 


f    :. 


176 


LAKE  SUPERIOR  GUIDE. 


E.,  o 


Grand,  on  a  higli  blnfT;  elevated  205 
feet.  Stannard  Kock  IJeacon,  N.W.  Iw 
N.  J  N.,  60  miles.  Manitou  Island 
light,  N.W.  I  N.,  78  miles.  Marquette 
light,  W.  J  S.,  38  miles. 

6.  Qrand  hlari  Ilarhor,  —  a  guide 
through  the  eastern  psissage  to  the  an- 
chorage at  Grand  Island  Haibor  and  ihe 
wharf  at  Munising  ;  elevated  84  feet. 

7.  Grand  Island  Harbor,  (front  light,) 
on  the  mainland  at  west  entrance  to 
Grand  Island  Harbor;  elevated  28  feet. 
Front  light  in  wooden  tower.  Rear  liglit 
on  keeper's  frame  dwelling.  These 
lights  are  a  guide  for  entering  the  west 
channel.  With  the  north  point  of  Wood 
Island,  bearing  W.  i  of  a  mile,  and  the 
lights  in  range,  steer  S.  by  E.  ^ 
miles,  toward  the  range  lights. 

8.  Marqmite,  46°  82'  N.  lat.,  situated 
on  the  north  point  of  Marquette  liarlwr; 
elevated  77  feet,  ytannard'a  Kock  Bea- 
con, N.  I  E.,  43i  miles ;  Grand  Island 
Light,  E.  \  N.,  84  miles. 

9.  Granite  Island,  on  Granite  Island, 
12  miles  N.W.  of  Marquette ;  elevated 
98  fe  „.  Keweenaw  Point,  N.  by  W.  J 
W.,  48  miles ;  Stannard's  Rock,'  N.  by 
E.  ^  E.,  82  miles. 

10.  Huron  Island,  on  tlie  West  Huron 
Island,  off  Huron  Bay ;  elevated  197 
feet.  Manitou  Ishuu'  light,  N.  by  N.E. 
i  E.,  37  miles ;  Traverse  Island,  N.W. 
bv  W.,  14i  miles.  Portage  Entry  light, 
"VV.  20  miles. 

11.  Portage  River,  near  mouth  of  Port- 
age Entry,  western  shore  of  Keweenaw 
Bav ;  elevated  68  feet.  Manitou  Island 
light,  N.E  \  E.,  50  miles.  To  Hough- 
ton and  Hancock,  via  Portage  Lake,  14 
miles ;  to  head  of  Ship  Canal,  Lake  Su- 
perior, 23  miles. 

12.  Portage  Range,  (front  light,)  on 
prolongation  of  cut  from  Keweenaw  Bay; 
elevated  21  feet.  Guide  into  Portage 
River.  Front  light  on  wooden  tower. 
Rear  light  on  keeper's  dwelling. 

13.  Manitou,o\\  the  east  point  of  Mani- 
tou I.sluud.    Iron  pile    etructure,  con- 


nected with  keeper's  house;  elevated  81 
feet.  Sfaimanrs  Rock,  t^.E.  28^  miles  ; 
the  east  poi't  of  Isle  Rojale,  N.W.|  N., 
iiiS  i.iiles. 

14.  Gu.ll  Rock,  on  a  rocky  islet  beiween 
Manitou  Ishuul  and  Keweenaw  Point; 
elevated  50  feet.  Towlt  and  keeper's 
dwelling  comiected,  buiit  of  Milwaukee 
brick.  A  guide  througii  the  passage  be- 
tween (Jull  Rock  and  Keweenaw  Point. 

15.  Copper  Harbor,  47°  28'  N.  lat.,  sit- 
uated on  the  eastern  point  to  the  en- 
trance to  Copi)er  Harbor;  elevated  65 
feet.  Tower  and  keeper's  dwelling  con- 
nected. S.W.  point  of  Isle  Rovale, 
W\N.W.,  68  miles;  Passage  Island, 
(route  to  Silver  Islet,)  N.N.W.  \  W.,  58 
miles ;  Saut  Ste.  Marie,  E.S.E.,  200  miles. 

16.  Coppei- Harbor  Range,  (front  light,) 
on  Fort  Wilkins  reserve;  elevate(l  22 
feet.  To  guide  vessels  into  Copper  Har- 
bor. 

17.  Eagle  Harbor,  on  the  west  point  of 
the  entrance  to  Eagle  Harbor.  Light  on 
keeper's  dwelling ;  elevated  47  feet.  The 
north  point  of  tlie  outer  or  easternmost 
of  the  Apostle  Group,  W.  by  S.  J  S.,  105 
miles. 

18.  Eagle  River,  near  the  entrance  to 
Eagle  River,  soutli  shore  of  Lake  Supe- 
rior. Ligbt  on  keepei-'s  dwelling;  ele- 
vated 61  feet.  Micliigan  Island  light, 
W.S.W.  I  W.,  100  miles. 

19.  A  Light-house  is  to  be  erected  at 
the  entrance  to  the  Portage  Ship  Canal, 
on  the  south  shore  of  Lake  Superior. 

20.  Ontonagon,  46°  52'  N.  lat.,  at  mouth 
of  Ontonagon  River ;  elevated  47  feet. 
House  and  tower  of  Milwaukee  brick. 
The  S.W.  point  of  Isle  Royale.  N.  J  E., 
67  miles. 

21.  Michigan  Island,  on  the  southern 
point  of  Michigan  Island,  the  most  east- 
ern of  the  Apostle  Group,  W^isconsin ; 
elevated  129  feet.  A  guide  through  the 
passage  between  Madeline  r.nd  Michi- 
gan Islands,  to  Bayfield  and  La  Pointe. 
Ontonagon,  E.,  56  miles. 

22.  A  Light-house  ia  erected  on  tho 


DULUTH  TO  ISLE  ROYALE  AND  PIGEON  lUVER. 


177 


Outer  Island  of  the  Apostle  Group  of 
Islands,  to  guide  mariners  to  the  head 
of  Lake  Superior,  distant  80  miles  S.W. 
of  Isle  Royale,  and  about  90  miles  E.  of 
Duluth. 

23.  La  Pointe,  on  Chaquamegon  Point, 
the  south-eastern  entrance  to  La  Pointe 
Harbor,  and  to  the  northward  of  Ash- 
land and  southward  of  Bayfield ;  ele- 
vated 42  feet.  Light  on  keeper's  dwell- 
ing, painted  white. 

24.  Raspberry  Island,  on  the  south- 
west point  of  th^  island,  one  of  the  Apos- 
tle Group;  elevaCed  77  feet.  A  guide 
between  tlie  Main  and  Raspberry  Island, 
and  to  Bayfield. 

^  25.  Minnesota  Point,  46°  46^  N.  lat., 
situated  at  the  head  of  Lake  Superior, 
mouth  of  St.  Louis  River ;  elevated  50 
feet.  A  guide  into  Superior  Bay  and 
Duluth.  The  S.W.  point  of  Isle  Roy- 
ale,  N.E.  by  E.  I  E.,  150  miles;  Silver 
Islet,  Canada,  N.E.  t}  E.,  180  miles. 

26.  Duluth,  on  the  end  of  the  south 
pier  of  Duluth,  Minn. ;  a  guide  into  the 
canal  or  inner  Bay. 


Table  of  Distauces, 

A.T  WUICH  OBJECTS  CAN  BE  SEEN  ON  TT£E 
LAKES  AT  DIFFERENT  ELEVATIONS. 


Height 
in  feet. 
10 
20 
30 
40 
50 
60 
70 
80 
90 


Distances 

Id  milea. 

4-184 

6-916 

7-245 

8-366 

9354 

10-246 

11-067 

11-832 

12-549 


Height 

in  leet. 

100 

150 
200 
300 
400 
500 
600 
800 
1000 


Distani^es 
iu  lulled. 
13-221 
16-208 
18-702 
22-917 
26-450 
29-583 
32-406 
37-418 
41-883 


Statute  miles. 
Example.  —  Detour    Light, 
75  feet  high,  visible 11-456 

Add  for  height  of  observer's 
eye,  on  deck  10  feet 4-184 

Distance  of  Light 15-406 


Duluth  to  Isle  Royale  and  Pigeon  River. 


The  trip  along  the  North  Shore  of 
Minnesota  to  the  mouth  of  Pigeon  River 
and  Isle  Royale,  which  lies  opposite,  is 
one  of  great  interest.  The  harbors,  head- 
lands, islands,  and  objects  of  interest  are 
numerous.  Then  the  inside  passage 
along  the  Canada  shore,  passing  several 
islands,  is  still  more  interesting,  until 
you  enter  Thunder  Bay,  when  the  scene 
is  b^  far  more  grand  and  imposing  — 
having  in  full  view  Pie  Island,  M'Kay's 
Mountain,  and  Thunder  Cape,  the  latter 
rising  1350  feet  in  height,  with  almost 
perpendicular  walls. 

Granite  Point  and  Knife  River 
are  passed  18  miles  N.E.  of  Duluth, 
near  where  is  the  settlement  of  Buchanan 
and  Isle  aux  Roches. 

Agate  Bay,  25  miles,  and  Burlington 
Bay,  2  miles  farther,  are  much  frequented 
12 


by  tourists.  Starting  from  Duluth  or 
Superior  City,  a  small  steamer  runs  fre- 
quently to  these  h.irbora  during  the  sum- 
mer months,  carrying  parties  of  pleas- 
ure. 

Encampment  Island  and  River,  35 
miles  from  Duluth,  is  another  interesting 
locality.  Here  the  shores  are  remarkably 
bold  and  precipitous,  rising  from  800  to 
1000  feet  above  the  water. 

Beaver  Bay  and  Settlement,  18 
miles  farther,  is  a  small  village  inhabited 
mostly  by  Germans.  Here  the  shore 
presents  a  rugged  appearance,  with  high 
lands  rising  in  the  background. 

The  Palisades,  6  miles  farther,  presents 
a  grand  appearance  from  the  water's 
edge.  The  rock  rises  to  the  height  of 
over  300  feet,  presenting  perpendicular 
columns.    Baptism  River,  2  miles,  is  a 


;  :        !>:    Ill; 


f^Jl 


ll;. 


':• 


178 


LAKE  SUPERIOll  GUIDE. 


mountain  stream,  rifling  in  an  eminence 
called  Saw-Teeth  Mountains. 

The  innnurous  rivers  and  creeks  falling 
into  Lake  Superior  along  the  Nortli 
Shore,  from  Duluth  to  Fort  William, 
Canada,  for  a  distance  of  about  180  miles, 
are  generally  rapid  streams  of  moderate 
length.  They  are  mostly  pure  water, 
abounding  in  speckled  trout  and  other 
kinds  of  fish.  In  the  rear  it  is  almost 
an  unbroken  wilderness,  although  sup- 
posed to  be  rich  in  minerals  of  difFerent 
kinds, —  copper,  iron,  silver,  and  gold, — 
the  latter  being  found  in  the  vicinity  of 
Vermillion  Lake,  lying  in  a  north-east- 
erly direction  some  fifty  or  sixty  miles. 

Pedt  Marais  and  the  mouth  of  Manitou 
River  are  next  passed.  Two  Islands  River 
is  named  from  two  beautiful  islands 
■which  lie  off  its  mouth. 

Temperance  River,  another  romantic 
stream,  rising  in  Carlton's  Peak,  is  thus 
named  owing  to  its  having  no  bar  at  its 
mouth.  This  locality  should  become  a 
favorite  resort  for  invalids  and  others 
seeking  health  and  pleasure.  Here  are 
a  succession  of  waterfalls  of  great  beauty, 
some  only  200  or  300  feet  from  the  Lake 
shore. 

Good  Harbor  Bay,  100  miles  N.E. 
of  Duluth,  is  a  safe  harbor,  as  its  name 
implies.  Terrace  Point,  Ruck  Island,  and 
Grand  Marais  are  all  in  sight,  while 
small  streams  flow  into  the  lake,  alive 
with  speckled  trout. 

Grand  Marais  Harbor,  Minn. — 
This  harbor  is  located  on  the  north  shore 
of  Lake  Superior,  about  115  miles  east 
of  Duluth.  It  is  the  only  large  and  secure 
harbor  between  Duluth  and  Grand  Port- 
age, a  distance  of  about  150  miles.  The 
harbor  is  of  elliptical  shape,  and  is  2500 
feet  long  by  1400  feet  wide.  The  mouth 
of  the  harbor  is  1000  feet  wide ;  the  depth, 
at  the  entrance,  24  feet,  with  a  rock  bot- 
tom. After  entering  the  harbor  the  depth 
increases,  and  the  bottom  is  composed  of 
gi-avel  and  boulders. 

Gbam)  Pobtaoe  Bay  and  Island,  40 


miles  farther,  is  a  place  of  considerable 
resort.  Here  is  an  Indian  village  and 
Keservation,  where  is  a  Koman  Catholic 
Mission,  a  block-house,  and  some  12  or 
15  dwellings.  From  this  point  com- 
mences a  portage  route  to  Pigeon  River, 
Rainy  Lake,  and  Lake  of  the  Woods. 

Waiis-waa-Ooning  Bay  is  a  beautiful 
expanse  of  water,  encircled  in  part  by 
highlands,  rising  to  the  height  of  1000 
feet,  and  several  beautiful  wooded  islands. 
From  this  bay  to  the  south  end  of  Isle 
Royale,  the  distance  is  20  miles. 

PiOEON  Bay  and  River,  forming  the 
north-west  boundary  between  the  United 
States  and  Canada,  is  well  worthy  of  a 
visit.  The  bay  contains  several  beautiful 
islands  and  islets,  where  is  excellent 
fishing.  Pigeon  River  Falls,  situated 
about  half  a  mile  above  the  landing,  are 
exceedingly  grand  and  imposing.  Here 
the  water  falls  about  90  feet,  almost  per- 
pendicular, into  a  chasm,  then  rushes 
through  a  gorge  into  the  bay. 

Pabkersville  is  a  small  settlement 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  where 
also  is  to  be  seen  Indian  huts  and  wig- 
wams constructed  of  birch  bark.  This 
place,  no  doubt,  is  soon  destined  to  be- 
come a  place  of  resort  during  the  summer 
months;  it  is  situated  about  150  miles 
N.E,  of  Duluth. 


Isle  Koyale,  Houghton  Co,,  Mich,, 
being  about  45  miles  in  length  from 
N,E,  to  S.W.,  and  from  6  to  12  miles  in 
width,  is  a  rich  and  important  island, 
abounding  in  copper  ore  and  other  min- 
erals, and  also  precious  stones.  The 
principal  harbor  and  only  settlement  is 
on  Siskowit  Ray,  being  on  the  east  shore 
of  the  island,  50  miles  distant  from 
Eagle  Harbor,  on  the  main  shore  of 
Michigan. 

The  other  harbors  are  Washington 
Harbor  on  the  south-west,  Todd's  Harbor 
on  the  west,  and  Rock  Harbor  and  Chip- 
pewa Harbor  on  the  north-east  part  of 
the  island.    In  some  places  on  the  west 


1 


CH  in 

land, 

min- 

The 

lent  is 

shore 

from 

)re  of 


I 


.v':.  VX 


c 


■M 


'<>*>4. 


^ -'■:•• 


•-aEAT  FAi...j-.  j-'  -fean  H.is^'i 


. 


I'M    11113  I;^ 


17.^ 


I.AkL  NtT.UiC'fl  oriDK 


in<>niil,'i'n  Btreara,  riMj'ii?  Hi  ;.i  i  •;.?•»/.•;<.• 
t';tll''.l  Snw-T-i  '!i  Moiitili"'!*. 

iniii   Lnko  iSip- rlor    alunvt   iU<- 
Sh   I!-,    iroiii    i  'liluth   to   1  or;    ^'• 
(.';u)a<l.i,  fir  4  J'-^tancti  of, "vlxait  i" 
:iri'  y  In  Lilly  :  ipitl  8tivr»iim  r. 
'iijg'h,     'i  litv    wo    Pii.wlly    : 
Hi>uiiii'li'i;,.   ii  jAtT^k'l  \r'>;J 
kirv! ;  of  hnl..    In  ll      .-'.hi- 
au  iiMt.»r"k<  ..   /:il<l»'j*m"w.    '•  . 
iif,-<><J  *.o  i      ''>!•  tit  sniti:,  r-'i'  , 
Kjlliir'.,—  i.oi  r- •,  iri.ii,    •ii*»r, 
tllO   .JdCf    I.     ';  :•  f'    •'■■'  1!<»  ll.v 

\  ciioilli."'  1  •  •'  It,  ii»>n  '•<.4-»' 

J'-.. I   .^/"ir^'/.  .iiiit  I'".'-  iK'  'ith  of  Manitrrii. 

'>    .  ••III.-.'    i'""r    two    It.uUUtHl    Uil.iO'Ia 
M''iii'i  iit«  i;il  U-'  Tixtal'i. 

7 l;,<( •'.»*■''  JiiiJir,  ■■■.]Tiiiin-x  r'.mmlir 
■■'trt'tiia,  :i-in^  in  (Jarltuii  .^  iV'iik.  i.-*  ih.. 
i!:iiii.:.i  o\Vi  1.^  It'  iU  hiiv'iic  Tie  f'lir  ft  itH 
m'>ufli.  'll'.ifi  locality  sho;;!  '  bc'.i.mf.  ? 
t'»,n.>riff!  r'-M}i-i  for  inv.'i.l"-  ami  (I'.'ior.- 
St:.  !•.  iiii;;  healiiv  ant'  yj:'\>\i.-\  litij  aro 
iit-.at-  '-  it.tii  (/f  writer:.!!:-.  1)1' L'Vta:  lifnuiy, 
.-io'.'.tj  i.'u!;,-  ''.'O  <.r  livw  f'-t't  fi.n'i  th(.-  Luko 

i...'>n  ['•'.(■.*»  Ha'-'  lOti  rnil-,)8  N.K. 
i.f  l!-,!!..;-!  'c  I  iiJt  I.  rl'or,  )!*  its  nriiiio 
iii'J  li  -•  ?>■  ■^^•  /"'>;.e'  J{"-f:  ht'^fui,  an<) 
ff'Vi.'i  Af't:\-'  (ir.;  itit  1. 1  -l^'JU,  wliilo 
«in;.;i  iJi.^  li'W  i'.'''  'Jif  lak",  alive 

wiU>  ■■;;  ■  -iJ^K'i'  '    I'lt. 

~   llAKt-ou,  Minn.— 
1  .  /t-.l'jai.    north  nhore 

oi  !.  -Ki  .S-  ;  '  ri.-<r,  sWxji  II'V  luilcH  eaj"! 
(»t  l>'il'::li.  it  1'  ih  <»tiH  '..rgeuiKl  t'ecure 
hflrfor  ♦'cr.Wi.or.  D'lit.-'^.  .•ad  Grand  Port 
ago,  H  ,11"' mw  'jf  nb'  ui  t-lO  laile.s.  The 
hiu'Wcr  IM  'if  oUipticaf  chrtpi,  and  is  2600 
ft'-:  J-'M«  '>\  MiH»  fcvl  witic.  The  moiUli 
of  tfi!  '..i-r!  or  i:^  l<"H>Ofpt't  wiile:  ihedepth, 
at  iiie  evitfftnrt-',  2'1  fctri,  "ff'ili  h  nn^k  l)ut.- 
Uiiu.  A*^«rt' «. nU'riiJg  tlu-  Ittirl'Ojr  the  depth 
iiiCT'  AW\  iii.rt  thi3  bottora  i»  C'(>iuposfc(r of 
gravel  ;iii<J  h-  •l><l«?^^•. 

GaAJ?j> !:'( 'KTAtja  Lay  mmI  iiuand,  10 


'  milf-i  fiirtlfT,  ].,  !\  I'.iac*-.  of  c'on.iI(l»:fnl.'l<' 
">t.:rt.    Jl.-rc  .    u/:   lb. linn  villju<«»  ani! 
'- wrration,  w^-   •-  i.  i  Jvoman  (.  aiiit.lu' 
?>»i.  n  hUi\  '1..1./4",  and  Borne  li!  ur 
'iiii,')*      F.  'ro    diirf    iiuini    iv,ni 
t  H>rtH««j  I'.  I, a  to  ri);«'Oii  Fuv..r, 
'  rl:«>,  fiml  L:.<.«i  of  ll»«  \\'<AAli». 
4-u-    :rf»(t.fj>(/Mm</  //'^y  '8  II  bt.'iutifi:l 
.:»■..   of  wat'^r,  i'/irir<.'lf  (I  in  jmrt  tv 
:lui"b,  ritinj;  lu  the  lieifrhf.  <^f  lOOv 
.  n>-l  itt'V-  ral  hfaiititui  wotxkil  isi  indj. 
j'f'>:i»  t!ii»  bar  to  th^»  aomh  end  of  IrIc 
U.»>  *it*,  the  di;»T.uii^  i«  '20  inilv.'«. 

f'MaKt'N- B  »  V  -,  ,H  (.'t\  v,«^  foirni'i;'  iti> 

-  i.oj 'Ji- ?( ii't  l.»/»     i«»  '  'II-  ,veon  I 'to  I'l'itcd 

.'   :  ..N  !init  ''wi^'?'        -Aiil  (vorth/  jf  R 

'    '»i<.  Tilt!  bay  fN  ;  .  •  -Xt*  *.i  venil  bcaiitifa) 

»•    nd*  and    i«i"t».    •rKvirw   is  exrciifiit 

I'  ' '-..?       i:*i!jfon    'kc'    i''aZ/«,    sidriJcJ 

'>;h  *;j  tuif  •  ntilo  MS'^vt?  •hi;  Inmliti^,  are 

•  .;  ■«•(:  Jirc.ijr  ;^ramil  and  jr'ij],.i.-*ng.     IJi^re 

*tn,  e-st'.r  mlln  .i!.«-';t  •!»<  frflt,  alm.Of't  j  or- 

.H,",  into  u  r'i!!5i,i,  thi'Ti  ruald'S 

;  .UK  i.-.  .1  f.)  jll  e!;-ttlo;i.«;at 

■•j';  ID  mkIi  oi  I.  0.  rivor,  v,-!:.-ro 

.    •ixii  Indiur.  huts  und  wi  ■- 

I"*   •  '»'r;ictt'd  of  bu'i'h  harl--.     i'hii 

'  ci.".iiit,  i!*  soon  dc^liiicd  l«:»  be- 

it  U  t.JiuieJ  about  lAO  luiks 

f*;!©  KoyR^  ,  !(  ^^hLon  Ct>.,  Mi(  h., 
nv."-i:,i,_  M^wi'ii  -I'-  ;..:■«  ju  U-ijglh  froiu 
!  j».L.  u>  ;--."\>  ,  wv.'.  r'-'Tir;  ''  to  12  miloH  in 
!  wj'i'^.  t*  ft  Hfih  ,::.'i  'nsporiaiit  i.^land, 
[  3''N  t-f'''..';^  Iii  ropj-ij  -ire  ;ind  other  .jin- 

< ■•  .'s.  mj'J  ,..js<)  j»»w!'4»'iu.H  '.itoii-a.  The 
;  {■••ii:'''t|i»i  hiubor  and  only  settlomtit  i.'i 
i  (^n  V/.v  .ittTJt  iirii,  Xui'w  <^n  the  east  pIk  .-o 
:  of    tj*.«   j-tlcRd,   5<j   iniies    dintant  from 

Hng\s>  "1?  iibor,  uii  the  main  shor.'  of 

'x'\,<-  OvUiir  harh/ir*;  aro  "SVaaJungtrni 

TLr-K-r  06  the  HKiiiU.-^t^s;!;,  Totld'.-,  Hiu  bor 

i  on  thi-  vsK^t.  a:id  F-Lrn^k  Hnrbor  vxni  Chijv 

;  pevia  Harf-ior  on  tho  north-east  part  of 

■  Lbe  inland.     Iii  some  jhices  on  the  weut 


l.>0- 


iie 

.a  ia 

|phoi-e 

ironi 


of 


X'Xl 

jor 


Grkat  Falls  —  Pigeon  River. 


! 

! 

1 

1 

1  ! 

:  1 

'; '!    c 

1 
1 

\'rW. 


west 


I  i 


t- 


•l«*.^ 


TRIP  ALONG  THE    BOUTH   SHORE. 


179 


are  perpendicular  clifTni  of  green  stone, 
very  bold,  rising  from  the  water's  edge, 
while  on  the  eastern  shore  conglomerate 
rock  or  coarse  sandstone  abounds,  with 
occasional  stony  beach.  On  this  coast 
are  many  islets  and  rocks  of  sandstone, 
rendering  navigation  somewhat  danger- 
ous. Good  fishing-grounds  abound  all 
around  this  island,  which  will,  no  doubt, 
before  many  years,  become  a  favorite 
fluiumer  resort  for  the  invalid  and  the 


sportsman,  as  well  as  for  the  scientific 
tourist. 

SiSKOWiT  Lake  is  a  considerable  body 
of  water  lying  near  the  centre  of  the 
island,  which  ai)parentlv  luis  no  outlet. 
Other  small  lakes  and  pictures(|ue  inlets 
and  bays  abound  in  all  parts  of  the  island. 
Hills,  rising  from  300  to  400  feet  above 
the  waters  of  the  lake,  exist  in  many 
localities  throughout  the  island,  which 
is  indented  by  bays  and  inlets. 


Trip  along  the  South  Shore  of  Lake  Superior. 


On  leaving  DuLxrrn  by  the  American 
steamers  bound  for  Marquette  and  the 
Saut  Ste.  Man-,  the  boat  pursues  an 
easterly  course  until  the  Apostle  Islands 
are  readied,  about  00  miles  distant  — 
the  Minnesota  and  Wisconsin  shores 
being  l)oth  in  sight.  The  first  island 
passed,  on  the  right,  is  called  Steamboat 
Island ;  then  comes  in  succession  Sandy 
Island,  York  Island,  and  Raspberry 
Island;  on  the  latter  there  is  a  light- 
house. Oak  Island  is  passed  on  the  left, 
it  being  a  large,  elevated,  and  wooded 
body  of  land ;  tlien  comes  Hermit's  Island 
and  Bass  Island;  on  the  latter  there  is 
a  valuable  stone  quarry  of  red  sand- 
stone. Here  tlu'  view  is  most  beautiful 
in  fine  weather,  there  being  in  full  view 
a  number  of  islands,  altogether  number- 
ing twenty,  of  different  sizes,  of  which 
Madeline  Island  is  the  largest,  where  is 
located,  on  its  south  end,  La  Pointe,  an 
old  settlement. 

Bayfield,  Wis.,  80  miles  east  of  Du- 
luth,  by  water,  is  the  first  regular  landing. 
The  hotel  accommodations  are  good,  and 
no  place  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Superior 
aflTords  greater  inducements  for  the  seeker 
of  health  and  pleasure.  Boating,  sail- 
ing, and  fishing  can  be  enjoyed  during 
the  summer  months. 

Ashland,  situated  18  miles  south  of 
Bayfield,  with  which  it  is  connected  by 
a  steam-ferry,  as  well  as  La  Pointe,  and  i 
a  new  landing  at  Houghton  Point,  all 


add  to  the  attractions  which  Cha-quam,' 
e-gon  Bay  and  its  vicinity  atlbrds  to 
tourists.  For  a  healthy  climate,  pure 
water,  good  fishing,  and  an  agreeable 
class  of  inhabitants,  no  part  of  the  lake< 
exceeds  the  above  favored  localities. 
From  Ashland,  the  Wisconsin  Central 
Railroad  runs  south  through  Northern 
Wisconsin  to  Menasha,  Milwaukee,  etc. 

On  leaving  Bayfield,  proceeding  east- 
ward, the  steamer  usually  runs  between 
Bass  Island  and  Madeline  Island,  passing 
Presque  Island,  toward  Michigan  Island, 
where  there  is  a  light-house.  There  are 
also  several  other  islands  in  sight,  which 
usually  present  a  most  lovely  appearance 
from  the  deck  of  the  passing  steamer. 
After  leaving  the  Apostle  Islands,  the 
steamer  runs  direct  for  Ontonagon,  GO 
miles,  passing  the  Porcupine  Mountains, 
and  the  Silver  Region  near  the  month 
of  Iron  River,  a  beautiful  stream  enter- 
ing the  lake  about  15  miles  west  of  On- 
tonagon. Proceeding  eastward,  the  steam- 
er either  passes  through  Portage  Ship 
Canal  or  sails  around  Keweenaw  Point 
to  Houghton,  Marquette,  etc. 

On  leaving  Marquette  the  steamer 
usually  runs  direct  for  White  Fish  Point, 
130  miles,  passing  Grand  Island  and 
the  Pictured  Rocks,  all  being  in  sight 
from  the  deck  of  the  steamer.  Dis- 
tance from  Duluth  to  Saut  Ste.  Marie, 
passing  around  Keweenaw  Point,  560 
miles. 


I^^^WMll 


I 


tw^ 


ill 


I  1 


180 


I 


LAKE  SUPERIOR  — NORTH  SHORE. 


Trip  around  the  North  Shore  of  Lake  Superior, 

Made  on  Board  the  Canadian  Steamer  Chicora,  July,  1873. 


On  leaving  the  mouth  ohhe  Ship  Canal, 
above  the  Kapids  of  St.  Mary's  River,  a 
beautiful  view  is  presented  from  the  deck 
of  the  steamer.  The  Rapids  and  the  set- 
tlements on  both  sides  of  the  river  appear 
to  advantage,  while  a  lovely  stretch  of 
the  stream  above  is  passed  over  before 
arriving  at 

Point  aux  Pins,  Ont.,  6  miles  above 
the  Rapids.  Here  is  a  convenient  steam- 
boat landing,  a  store  and  a  few  dwellings, 
being  handsomely  situated  among  a 
grove  of  small  pine  trees.  Fishing 
parties  can  here  be  fitted  out  with  guides 
and  canoes  for  fishing  and  exploring  the 
North  Shore. 

''^'aiska  Bay,  an  expanse  of  the  river, 
is  next  entered,  extending  westward  to 
Point  Iroquois.  Here  may  be  seen  an 
Indian  settlement  on  the  South  shore. 

Gros  Cap,  15  miles  from  the  Saut,  lies 
on  the  Canada  side  directly  opposite 
Point  Iroquois,  forming  prominent  land- 
marks to  the  entrance  of  Lake  Superior. 
This  bold  headland  consists  of  hills  of 
porphyry  rising  from  600  to  700  feet 
above  the  waters  of  the  lake.  "Gros 
Cap  is  a  name  given  by  the  voi/ngeurs  to 
almost  innumerable  projecting  head- 
lands ;  but  in  this  case  appropriate,  since 
it  is  the  conspicuous  feature  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  Great  Lake." 

Immediately  north  of  Gros  Cap  lies 
GouLAis  Bay  and  GorLAis  Point, 
another  bold  highland  which  is  seen  in 
the  distance.  Goulais  River  enters  the 
'oay,  affording,  in  connection  with  the  ad- 


jacent waters,  good  fishing-grounds — the 
brook  or  speckled  trout  being  mostly 
taken  in  the  river.  Here  is  an  Indian 
settlement  of  the  Chippewa  tribe. 

Taquamenon  Bay,  lying  to  the  west- 
ward, is  a  large  expanse  of  water,  being 
about  25  miles  long  and  as  many  broad, 
terminating  at  White  Fish  Point,  40  miles 
above  Saut  Ste.  Marie. 

Parisien  Island  is  passed  30  miles 
from  the  Saut,  lying  near  the  middle  of 
the  above  bay,  being  attached  to  Canada. 

Maple  Island,  20  miles  above  Gros 
Cap,  h  a  small  wooded  island  lying  near 
the  shore.  Sandy  Islands,  5  miles  far- 
ther, are  a  low  group  of  islands  lying  off 

Batciieewanaung  Bay,  a  large  and 
beautiful  sheet  of  water  which  receives  a 
stream  of  the  same  name,  being  famed 
for  trout  fishing.  Here  is  an  Indian 
settlement,  and  a  village  where  is  a  large 
steam  saw-mill.  On  Corbay  Point,  at  tlie 
entrance  to  the  above  bay,  stands  a  light- 
house. 

Mamainse  Point^  {lAltle  Sturgeon,) 
lying  opposite  White  Fish  Point,  is 
another  bold  headland,  where  is  a  fish- 
ing station  and  a  few  dwellings.  It  is 
about  55  miles  from  the  Saut,  and  was 
formerly  a  copjier  mining  location,  but 
has  been  abandoned.  Here  is  a  good 
harbor  and  .steamboat  landing. 

Some  12  or  15  miles  north  of  Ma- 
mainse Point  are  located,  on  MiCA  Bay, 
the  old  Quebec  Copper  Mining  Company's 
Works,  at  present  abandoned,  owing  to 
their  being  found  unproductive.     Still 

181 


r  -■•-^■:'?^ 


182 


LAKE  SUPERIOR  GUIDE. 


farther  north,  skirting  Lake  Superior,  is 
to  1)6  found  a  vast  Mineral  liegion,  as  yet 
only  partially  explored, 

Montreal  Island  and  River,  25 
miles  north  of  Mamainse,  alibrd  good 
fishing-grounds.     Here  is  a  harbor  ex- 

f)osed  to  the  v/est  winds  fron;  off  the 
ake,  which  can  safely  be  approached 
when  the  winds  are  not  boisterous. 

Aguawa  River,  30  miles  from  Ma- 
mainse Point,  affords  a  good  harbor, 
where  is  a  trading  post  and  good  fishing. 

Lizard  Island  and  Leech  Island, 
some  10  miles  farther  northward,  are 
next  passed,  lying  contiguous  to  the 
mainland. 

Cape  Garoantua,  45  miles  north  of 
Mamainse,  is  a  bold  headland.  On  the 
Bouth  side  is  a  harbor  protected  by  a 


small  island.  From  this  cape  to  the 
island  of  Michipicoten  the  distance  is 
about  30  miles. 

The  steamers  bound  for  Prince  .vr>- 
thur's  Landing  usually  run  direct  for 
Michipicoten  Island,  lying  70  miles  north- 
west of  Mamainse  Point;  but  when 
bound  for  Michipicoten  Harbor  they  sail 
along  the  eastern  end  of  the  lake,  pass- 
ing several  small  islands  and  head- 
lands. 

This  portion  of  Canada  is  as  yet  an 
almost  unbroken  wilderness  for  several 
hundred  miles  around  Lake  Superior. 
With  the  exception  of  a  few  scattered 
Hudson  Bay  (Jo's.  Posts,  there  are  no 
settlements  until  you  reach  the  vicinity 
of  Silver  Islet  or  Thunder  Bay,  two  or 
tliree  hundred  miles  distant. 


Coasting  along  the  North  Shore  of  Lake  Superior. 


There  are  two  modes  of  reaching  St. 
Ignace  Island  and  the  mouth  of  Nepi- 
gon  River,  if  bound  on  a  pleasure  ex- 
cursion to  the  far-famed  fishing-grounds 
on  the  North  Shore  of  Lake  Superior, 
where  speckled  trout,  varying  from  one 
to  eight  pounds,  can  be  taken  in  large 
quantities. 

The  first  plan  and  mode  of  conveyance 
is  that  of  hiring  a  bireh  canoe  of  from 
18  to  20  feet  in  length,  with  two  Indians, 
or  half-breeds,  as  voyageurs,  for  which 
service  there  is  usually  a  charge  of  five 
dollars  a  day.  Then  lay  in  tents  and  a 
Bupply  of  provisions  for  two  or  more 
weeks,  according  to  the  length  of  the  in- 
tended trip.  After  this  is  accomplished, 
embark  on  one  of  the  Canadian  steamers 
running  direct  for  the  mouth  of  the  Nep- 
igon  River;  then  land  and  commence 
your  canoe  sailing  or  paddling  until  you 
reach  the  desired  fishing-grounds.  Hero 
land  and  spread  your  tents  for  a  time, 
alternately  fishing,  cooking,  eating  and 
Bleeping,  as  you  may  desire. 

This  is  a  truly  independent  style  of 
travelling  and  living,  combining  health, 


pleasure  and  economy.  The  party  may 
consist  of  two,  four,  or  more  persons  be- 
sides the  two  guides.  You  have  nothing 
to  annoy  you  except  the  rainy  weather  or 
mosquitoes,  which  are  at  times  very  nu- 
merous and  hungry,  often  attacking  the 
sportsman  in  a  fierce  manner.  The  best 
mode  of  avoiding  these  pests,  is  to  camp 
on  a  point  of  land  and  clear  away  all 
the  underbrush ;  then  build  a  smudge-fire 
and  take  your  comfort,  regardless  of  the 
buzzing  outside  world. 

The  second  mode  is  to  hire  a  Mack- 
inac sailing-boat  with  oars,  and  lay  in 
your  provisions;  hire  your  crew  of  two 
Indians,  and  set  sail  from  the  mouth  of 
the  Ship  Canal  above  the  Saut  Ste. 
Marie,  or  any  other  point  from  which 
you  may  choose  to  depart,  if  bound  for 
the  North  Shore  or  mouth  of  the  Nepi- 
gon.  The  supplies  for  this  excursion  are 
usually  obtained  on  the  Canadian  side, 
either  at  the  Saut  or  at  Point  aux  Pins,  7 
miles  above,  where  is  a  good  landing  and 
camping-ground. 

Starting  from  above  the  Rapids  with  a 
fair  wind,  Oros  Cap,  15  miles,  is  soon 


^mm 


COASTING  ALONG  THE  NORTH  SHORE. 


183 


reached ;  opposite  lies  Point  Iroquois,  the 
"  Pillars  of  lierculea  "  of  Lake  Superior, 
being  the  true  entrance  to  the  lake.  You 
next  pass  Ooulais  Bay,  Maple  Island, 
Sandy  Island,  and  enter  Batclieetmnaung 
Bay,  where  is  found  good  fishing-grounds 
and  abundance  of  brook  trout  in  the 
streams  which  enter  here. 

Proceeding  nortliward,  Mamalnse  Point, 
50  miles  distant  from  the  Saut,  is  passed. 
From  thence  the  voyager  coasts  along  the 
North  Shore  toward  Michipicoteu  Har- 
bor, proceeding  westward  toward  Nep- 
igon  Bay  and  River. 

Miohipicoten  Harbor  and  River, 
120  miles  north  of  the  Saut  Ste.  Marie, 
situated  in  N.  lat.  47°  56^,  W.  long.  85° 
6'',  affords  a  safe  anchorage,  being  sur- 
rounded by  high  hills.  Here  is  estab- 
lished a  Roman  Catholic  mission,  and 
an  old  Hudson  Bay  Company's  post, 
from  whence  diverges  the  river  and  port- 
age route  to  James's  Bay,  some  350 
miles  distant.  The  shore  of  the  lake 
here  tends  westward  toward  Otter  Head, 
about  50  miles  distant,  presenting  a  bold 
and  rugged  appearance. 

MiciiiPicoTEN  Island  (the  Island  of 
Knobs  or  Hills),  65  miles  from  Mamainse 
Point  in  a  direct  course,  running  in  a 
north-west  direction,  lies  about  40  miles 
west  of  Michipicoten  Harbor.  This 
island,  15  miles  in  length  and  6  miles 
wide,  may  be  called  the  gem  of  Lake  Su- 
perior, prasenting  a  most  beautiful  ap- 
pearance as  approached  from  the  south- 
ward, where  a  few  picturesque  islands 
may  be  seen  near  the  entrance  to  a  safe 
and  commodious  harbor,  which  can  be 
entered  during  all  winds.  Nature  seems 
to  have  adapted  this  island  as  a  place  of 
resort  forthe  seekers  of  health  and.pleas- 
ure.  Within  the  bay  or  harbor  a  beau- 
tiful cluster  of  islands  adorns  its  entrance, 
where  may  be  found  abates  and  other 
precious  stones ;  while  inland  is  a  most 
charming  body  of  water,  surrounded  by 
wooded  hills  rising  from  800  to  500  feet 


I  above  the  waters  of  Lake  Superior. 
The  shores  of  the  island  abound  with 
I  greenstone  and  amygdaloid,  while  cop- 
I  per  and  silver  mines  are  said  to  exist  in 
the  interior  of  great  value.  The  fisheries 
here  are  also  valuable,  affording  profit- 
able employment  to  the  hardy  tisherman 
of  this  region.  As  yet,  but  few  houses 
are  erected  on  the  shores  of  this  romantic 
islantl,  where,  sooner  or  later,  will  Hock 
the  wealthy  and  beautiful  in  search  of 
health  and  recreation,  such  as  arc  af- 
forded by  pure  air,  boating,  and  lishing 
and  hunting. 

The  fish  taken  in  this  part  of  the  lake 
are  mostly  white  fish,  siskowit,  Macki- 
nac trout,  and  sspt  ckled  trout,  the  former 
being  taken  by  gill-nets. 

On  the  mainland  are  found  the  cara- 
bou,  a  large  species  of  deer,  bears,  foxes, 
otters,  beavers,  martins,  rabbits,  par- 
tridges, pigeons,  and  other  wild  game. 
The  barberry,  red  rasi)berry,  and  whortle- 
berry are  also  found  in  difli?rent  localities. 

Caribou  Island,  lying  about  25  miles 
south  of  Michipicoten,  near  the  middle 
of  the  lake,  is  a  small  body  of  land  at- 
tached to  Canada.  It  is  usually  passed 
in  sight  when  the  steamers  are  on  their 
route  to  Fort  William. 

Otter  Head,  60  miles  north-west  of 
Cape  Gargantua,  is  one  of  the  best  natu- 
ral harbors  on  Lake  Superior,  where  is 
to  be  seen  grand  and  romantic  scenery. 
Otter  Island,  I  ing  to  the  north  of  the 
harbor,  is  a  bold  piece  of  land.  In  this 
vicinity  are  supposed  to  be  rich  deposits 
of  iron,  tin,  and  other  minerals. 

Pic  River,  40  miles  farther,  is  a  fine 
stream,  entering  the  lake  from  the  north. 
Here  is  an  old  Hudson  Bay  Company's 
Post  and  a  settlement  of  Indians.  Pie 
Island,  lying  20  miles  to  the  westward, 
is  next  passed,  also  the  mouths  of  several 
small  rivers. 

iSlate  Island,  25  miles  farther  west,  lies 
out  in  the  lake,  about  12  miles  from 
shore.  Here  is  the  widest  part  of  Lake 
Superior,  being  about  160  miles  from 


>  f|H|  y '  T '  • 


184 


LAKE  8UPEKI0R  GUIDE. 


Wll 


m\ 


shore  to  shore,  being  nearly  due  north 
of  Marquette. 

Wilson's  Island,  20  miles  west,  lies 
within  a  few  miles  of  the  mainland, 
which  is  bold  and  rugged. 

Salter  Island,  a  few  miles  farther  west, 
is  a  small  island,  aftbrding  fine  scenery. 

Simpson's  Island,  40  miles  west  of  Slate 
Island,  is  an  important  body  of  land, 
which,  no  doubt,  contains  valuable  min- 
erals. 

St.  Ignace  Island,  the  largest  and 
most  important  of  the  Canadian  Islands, 
has  long  been  famed  for  its  supposed 
mineral  wealth.  Copper,  silver,  and 
lead  are  said  to  be  found  on  this  island. 
Here  the  land  rises  to  a  great  height  in 
some  places,  while  the  shores  are  bold 
and  rugged.  On  the  west  end  there  is 
a  convenient  steamboat  landing,  being 
distant  30  miles  from  the  mouth  of 
Nepigon  River. 

On  approaching  Nepigon  Bay  the 
steamer  runs  between  Simpson's  and 
Salter  Island,  the  former  being  a  large 
and  rugged  body  of  land,  while  the  high- 
lands on  the  main  coast  are  of  an  equally 
high  and  rugged  character,  presenting  a 
mountainous  appearance. 

Nepigon  Bay  is  about  30  miles  long 
and  20  miles  wide,  containing  several 
beautiful  wooded  islands,  the  largest 
being  Verte  Island,  lying  near  the  middle 
of  the  bay,  with  lesser  islands  as  the 
mouth  of  the  river  is  approached. 

Nepigon  River,  the  "  Ultima  Thule  "  of 
the  angler,  is  a  bold  and  dashing  stream, 
falling  300  or  400  feet  within  the  dis- 
tance of  22  miles.  There  are  alternate 
rapids  and  expansions,  with  high,  rug- 
ged hills  for  most  of  the  distance  to  the 
foot  of  Lake  Nepigon.  Those  who  are 
in  the  habit  of  visiting  this  stream  from 
year  to  year  represent  it  as  one  of  the 
most  wild  and  charming  retreats  on  the 
Continent,  where  health  and  sport  can 
be  obtained  during  the  summer  months, 
affording  almost  endless  enjoyment  to 
the  angler  and  sportsman. 


Hed  Sock  is  the  name  of  the  settle- 
ment at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  where 
is  a  convenient  steamboat  landing,  a 
store  and  storehouse,  a  few  dwellings 
and  Indian  wigwams,  surrounded  by 
cleared  lands.  This  is  an  Hudson  Bay 
Company's  Post,  where  goods  and  In- 
dian curiosities  are  sold.  Here  parties 
intending  to  fish  for  trout  in  the  river 
disembark,  and  by  means  of  birch  ca- 
noes, paddled  by  Indian  guides,  they 
.ascend  the  stream,  often  proceeding  to 
Lake  Nepigon,  passing  over  several  port- 
ages on  their  route. 

No  words  can  faithfully  describe  the 
wild  beauties  of  this  region  of  country, 
surrounded  by  nigged  hills,  dashing 
streams,  placid  lakes,  water-falls,  and 
rapids.  Here  brook  trout  of  a  large 
size  are  taken  in  fabulous  numbers,  and 
of  a  delicious  flavor.  No  place  on  the 
Continent  of  America  exceeds  this  ro- 
mantic spot,  which  will  ever  afford  sport 
to  the  angler  and  seekers  of  pleasure. 


Nepigon  River  —  Its  Rapids  and 
Lakes. 

Copied    from    Report    of    Robert 
Bell,  C.  E. 

The  Nepigon  River  empties  into  the 
head  of  Nepigon  Bay,  which  is  the  most 
northern  point  of  Lake  Superior,  (48° 
45'  N.  lat.)  The  water  is  remarkable 
for  its  coldness  and  purity,  and  is  the 
largest  stream  flowing  into  the  lake. 
The  general  upward  course  of  the  Nepi- 
gon is  due  north,  the  length  of  the  river 
being  31  miles.  Four  lakes  occur  in  its 
course,  between  which  are  rapids  and 
falls.  The  lowest.  Lake  Helen,  is  only 
one  mile  from  Bed  Bock,  a  Hudson  Bay 
Company's  post,  at  the  head  of  Nepigon 
Harbor.  At  the  outlet  of  this  lake  the 
river  is  very  narrow,  apparently  about 
100  jrards  wide,  with  a  very  swift  current, 
flowing  between  banks  from  thirty  to  fifty 


n 


m 


NEPiaON  RIVER  AND  RAPIDS. 


185 


feet  high.  Lake  Helen,  which  runs  due 
north,  is  about  eight  miles  long  and  one 
mile  wide.  For  six  miles  above  the 
lake  the  river  has  a  width  of  about  five 
chains,  with  deep  water,  and  a  moder- 
ately strong  current.  Here  the  river 
makes  a  sharp  bend  to  the  right,  and  is 
broken  by  a  slight  chute  at  Camp  Alex- 
ander. At  a  quarter  of  a  mile  above 
this  point  the  Long  Rapids  begin,  and 
continue  for  two  miles.  Here  is  a  port- 
age that  leads  to  the  foot  of  Lake  Jessie. 
This  lake,  which  is  three  miles  long,  and 
studded  with  islands,  is  separated  from 
Lake  Maria,  immediately  above  it,  and 
two  and  a  half  miles  in  length,  by  "  The 
Narrows,"  six  or  eight  chains  wide,  in 
which  there  is  a  strong  current. 

A  very  high  west-facing  clifT  of  col- 
umnar trap  approaches  the  river  from 
the  south-westward,  at  the  head  of  Lake 
Maria,  and  runs  from  this  point,  in  a 
tolerably  straight  course,  all  along  the 
east  side  of  the  river  to  Lake  Nepigon. 
Cedar  Portage,  two  miles  above  the  lake, 
is  250  yards  long.  A  mile  and  a  quarter 
above  it  there  is  another  portage  of  fifty 
yards  over  an  island  in  the  middle  of 
the  river.  Three-quarters  of  a  mile 
above  Island  Portage  the  One-Mile  Port- 
age begins.  At  rather  more  than  one 
mile  from  the  head  of  this  portage  the 
river  breaks  in  a  white,  foaming  chute, 
which  separates  Lake  Emma  from  the 
lower  level.  This  lake  is  nearly  four 
miles  long.  Between  it  and  the  point  at 
which  the  river  leaves  Lake  Nepigon,  a 
distance  of  six  miles,  four  principal 
rapids  occur,  the  lowest  of  which  is  seen 
where  the  river  enters  the  northern  ex- 
tremity of  Lake  Emma.  Four  miles 
more,  in  a  north-westerly  course,  brings 
us  to  the  head  of  Lake  Hannah,  from 
which  Flat  Rock  Portage,  one  mile  in 
length,  carries  us  to  the  shore  of  Lake 
Nepigon. 

The  following  list  shows  the  levels  in 
ascending  the  river,  and  the  height  of 
Lake  Nepigon  above  Lake  Superior : 


Rapids,  Fobtagks,  Era  Feet. 

Current  between  Red  Rock  and  Lake 

Helen 2 

Current  in  river  from  Lake  Helen  to 

Camp  Alexander 6 

Chute  at  Camp  Alexander 4 

From  the  last  to  Long  Portage 8 

Rapids  at  Long  Portage 137 

Current  in  the  Narrows,  between 

Lakes  Jessie  and  Maria 1 

Current  from  last  lake  to  Cedar  Port- 
age        1 

Cedar  Chute 10 

Current  from  Cedar  Chute  to  Island 

Chute 1 

Island  Chute 7 

Current  from  the  Island  to  the  One- 
Mile  Portage 2 

Rapids  of  One-Mile  Portage 45 

Current  from  One-Mile  Portage  to 

White  Chute 1 

White  Chute 6 

Current  between  Lakes  Emma  and 

Hannah 1 

Rise  from  last  lake  to  Lake  Nepigon 
(Flat  Rock  Portage) 81 

Lake  Nepigon*  aboveLake  Superior  313 

Waters  of  the  Nepiqon. 

"Good  water  is  a  luxury  that  cannot 
be  over-estimated.  In  this  respect,  the 
sportsman  angling  for  trout  on  the  Nepi- 
gon is  favored  above  all  others.  He  has 
always  before  him  a  never-failing  supply, 
so  remarkable  for  its  coldness  and  its 
purity  that  even  those  who  have  drunk 
of  it  habitually  for  years  cannot  but 
speak  of  it  whenever  they  taste  its  re- 
freshing waters.  Its  temperature  is  too 
cold  for  bathing,  and  a  morning  ablution 
brings  a  rosy  glow  to  the  cheeks  that  the 
fairest  belle  might  envy." 

*  Nepiqon,  the  name  by  which  the  lake  is 
known,  in  a  contraction  of  an  Indian  word  sig- 
nifying "  Deep  Clear-water  Lake."  It  is  about 
70  miles  long  and  50  miles  wide,  being  deeply 
indenttni  bv  large  bays,  having  a  coast-line  of 
upwards  of  5<K)  miles,  and  numerous  islands, 
numbering  upwards  of  one  thousand. 


w 

186 


LAKE  SUPERIOR  GUIDE. 


Nepigon  River,  Rapids,  and  Lake. 

"  The  Nei)igon,"  says  Hallock  in  his 
Fishing  Tourist,  "  is  a  noble  stream,  with 
waters  cold  and  clear  as  crystal,  flowing, 
with  a  volume  five  hundred  feet  wide, 
into  a  magnificent  bay  of  great  extent. 
This  bay  is  surrounded  by  long  undula- 
ting ranges  of  hills,  rugged  precipices, 
huge  bluffs,  and  lofty  hills  more  or  less 
wooded  with  evergreens,  interspersed 
with  deciduous  trees,  and  filled  with 
islands  of  all  sizes  and  every  variety 
of  outline. 

"  The  first  rapids  on  the  river  occur 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  above  the  land- 
ing at  Red  Rock,  and  are  a  mile  in  length. 
They  can  be  run  by  canoes  with  safety, 
while  a  portage  road  passes  along  the 
shore.  There  are  fifteen  rapids  or  chutes 
in  all,  and  at  each  there  is  the  best  of 
trout  fishing.  Three  miles  below  the 
head  of  the  river  are  the  Virgin  Falls, 
25  feet  high.  Altogether  the  scenery  is 
the  wildest  and  most  diversified  imagin- 
able, and  constantly  presents  changes  of 
the  most  enchanting  character.  Above 
the  falls  the  river  widens  gradually,  in- 
closing within  its  area  dozens  of  small 
islands  variegated  with  evergreens,  birch, 
poplar,  larch,  tamarack,  etc.,  and  then 
expands  into  a  vast  inland  sea,  whose 
shores  gradually  recede  beyond  the  limit 
of  vision.  In  the  far  distance,  horizon, 
sky,  and  water  meet,  and  the  waves  roll 
up  on  shore  with  a  volume  and  dash  as 
turbulent  in  storm  as  those  of  Erie  or 
Superior.  Its  bays  are  numerous;  some 
of  them  very  deep,  extending  inland  for 
a  number  of  miles  —  all  teeming  with 
speckled  trout,  lake  trout,  pike,  and 
pickerel  in  great  quantities.  Into  it 
flows  several  rivers  that  have  their 
sources  in  the  heights  of  land  which 
constitute  the  water-shed  that  divides 
the  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence  chain 
from  those  of  Hudson  Bay." 


Lake  Nepigon  Explored. 

For  many  generations  the  existence 
of  Lakk  Nepigon  has  been  known,  but 
only  partially,  to  the  traders,  trappers, 
and  Indians  in  the  employ  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Fur  Company.  The  general 
impression  has  been,  that  Lake  Nepigon 
was  located  about  80  miles  north  of  Lake 
Stiperior,  and  that  it  was  as  large  as 
Lake  Erie.  But  during  the  past  three 
years  the  Government  of  Canada  has 
been  extending  its  surveys  to  the  public 
lands  along  tlie  North  Shore  of  Lake 
Superior,  past  Fort  William  toward  the 
Red  River  country.  Mr.  Herrick,  one 
of  the  provincial  surveyors,  made  a  tra- 
verse of  the  Nepigon  River  in  186(5,  and 
found  the  distance  to  the  lake  to  be  in  a 
right  line  less  than  tliirty  miles. 

The  lake,  instead  of  lying  east  and 
west  for  two  miles  in  length,  has  its 
longest  diameter  north  and  south,  seventy 
miles;  its  breadth  east  and  west  being 
fifty  miles.  Its  height  above  Lake  Su- 
perior is  determined  apj^roximately  af 
313  feet,  or  913  above  the  ocean. 

In  18(39,  Robert  Bell,  an  assistant  geol- 
ogist and  engineer  of  the  Canada  survey, 
in  company  with  surveyor  MoKellar, 
made  the  entire  circuit  of  Lake  Nepigon, 
exploring  it  topographically  and  geo- 
logically. 

From  the  reports  and.  maps  of  these 
bold  explorers  it  is  learned  that  Lake 
Nepigon  is  accessible  and  has  around  it 
a  valuable  country.  It  has  a  shore  line 
of  about  five  hundred  and  eighty  miles 
of  navigable  water,  and  probably  one 
thousand  islands.  Its  waters  are  clear, 
cold,  and  pure,  and  its  outlet  is  the 
largest  river  of  Lake  Superior.  A  large 
part  of  the  rocks  are  such  as  produce 
copper. 

Near  the  south-west  angle  of  the  lake 
at  Grand  Bay,  with  only  a  few  feet  of 
elevation  between  them,  the  Black  Stur- 
geon River  has  its  rise.  The  space  be- 
tween them  is  so  narrow  and  so  low  that 
in  a  high  stage  of  the  lake  the  waters 


LAKE  NEPIQON  —  BLACK   BAY  — SILVER  ISLET. 


m 


appear  to  flow  over  the  intervening 
ground  from  the  lake  into  the  head  of 
this  river.  Nepigon,  in  Chippewa,  sig- 
nifies deep  and  clear  water. 

When  the  party  reached  the  head  of 
tlie  river  at  the  lake,  they  divided, 
McKellar  following  the  right  hand  or 
eastern  shore,  and  Bell  the  western. 

They  travelled  in  canoes,  Indian  fash- 
ion, taking  the  courses  with  a  theodolite, 
and  the  distances  with  a  micrometer. 
They  also  took  observations  for  latitude 
and  longitude.  At  the  end  of  eight 
weeks  they  met  at  the  northern  extremity 
of  the  lake,  having  had  a  pleasant  and 
prosperous  journey. 

The  latitude  of  the  northern  extremity 
is  50°  15''  north.  Its  surroundings  are 
less  mountainous  than  Lake  Superior. 
To  the  north,  between  Nepigon  and 
Hudson's  Bay,  the  country  is  represented 
by  the  Indians  to  be  comparatively  level. 

The  Omhabika  River  coming  in  from 
that  direction  heads  with  the  Albany 
River,  which  discharges  into  salt  water 
at  James'  Bay,  and  between  them  is  sup- 
posed to  be  a  flat  limestone  region.  This 
IS  one  of  the  routes  of  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company  to  their  posts  on  Hudson  Bay. 

South-west  of  Lake  Nepigon,  between 
it  ,nd  Thunder  Bay  of  Lake  Superior, 
the  countrv  is  represented  as  capable 
of  cultivation,  and  the  climate  the  coun- 
terpart of  Quebec. 


By  referring  to  the  map  can  be  seen 
the  route  usually  pursued  by  the  Cana- 
dian steamers;  also,  the  islands  and 
headlands  along  the  North  Shore. 

On  leaving  Nepigon  Kiver  and  Bny, 

Eroreeding  westward  toward  Thunder 
lay,  the  steamer  usually  passes  through 
Nepigon  Straits,  lying  between  St.  Ig- 
nace  and  the  mainland.  Then  the  broad 
waters  of  Lake  Superior  are  again  en- 
tered, and  you  steam  past  numerous 
islands  before  reaching  Point  Poiyhyry, 
where  is  located  a  light-house  to  guide 
the  mariner. 

Black  Bay,  15  miles  east  of  Thunder 
Cape,  presents  a  large  expanse  of  water, 
being  about  40  miles  long  and  10  or  12 
miles  wide,  surrounded  by  a  rugged  and 
wild  section  of  country.  Towards  the 
north  are  two  peaked  eminences,  termed 
the  Mamelons  or  Paps,  from  their  singu- 
lar formation,  resembling  a  female's 
breast,  when  seen  at  a  distance. 

On  approaching  the  famed  Silver  Met 
from  the  east,  the  view  presented  is  of  the 
grandest  and  most  interesting  character, 
— the  Island,  with  its  treasures  of  wealth, 
and  Silver  Islet  Settlement,  are  seen  in 
the  foreground,  while  bold  Thunder  Cape 
and  romantic  Pie  Island  are  seen  in  the 
distance.  Also,  southward,  may  be  seen 
Isle  Eoyale  and  Passage  Island,  both 
being  attached  to  the  State  of  Michigan. 


Trip  from  Marquette  to  Silver  Islet, 
North  Shore,  Lake  Superior. 


Leave  Marquette  at  2  P.  M.  by 
steamer,  with  a  large  party  of  tourists  on 
board,  bound  for  Silver  Islet  and  Duluth. 
Arrive  at  Houghton,  85  miles,  at  9  P. 
M. ;  leave  at  4  A.  M.  next  morning  for 
Silver  Islet,  distant  150  miles  from  Mar- 
quette by  direct  route.  Pass  Keweenaw 
Point  and  Copper  Harbor  at  11  A.  M. 
Fresh  wind  from  the  N.W.,  steering 
northward ;  thermometer  42°  Fahr.  Pass 


Passage  Island  at  4  P.  M.,  running  direct 
for  Thunder  Cape.  The  N.E.  part  of 
Isle  Royale  presents  a  rugged  appear- 
ance; the  highest  part  being  elevated 
500  feet.  Arrive  at  Silver  Islet  or 
Ry ANTON  at  6  P.  M. ;  distant  24  miles 
E.  of  Fort  William.  Take  a  tug-boat 
and  visit  Silver  Islet  Mine,  lying  3,000 
feet  from  the  mainland ;  descend  down 
the  shaft,  within  the  cofl'er  dam,  about 


rM,rr' 


188 


LAKE  SUPERIOR  GUIDE. 


mf 


m 


%  'I 


100  feet,  by  means  of  ladders,  the  pan- 
Bage  being  lighted  by  candles;  length 
opened,  about  70  feet  from  south  to  nortii ; 
vein  about  8  feet  wide  with  a  dip  of  75°. 
On  arriving  at  the  end  of  the  opening 
a  rich  sight  was  presented  to  our  view, 
the  face  of  the  mine  sparkling  with  sil- 
ver as  viewed  by  candle-light.  The  ore 
yields  from  $2,000  to  $4,000  a  ton. 

Silver  Met  or  Ryanton  lies  on  the  main- 
land, having  a  Bccure  harl)or  and  easy 
of  access,  with  a  convenient  wharf  for 
the  siilpment  of  silver  ore,  which  is  mostly 


put  up  in  barrels  for  the  purpose  of  trans- 
portation. 

Mining  for  silver  has  been  conmienced 
on  the  mainland  near  the  water's  edge, 
which  bids  fair  to  be  very  productive. 
The  vein  has  been  traced  for  several 
miles  northward  in  a  straight  line  from 
Silver  Islet.  Back  of  the  settlement  lies 
Surprise  Lake,  while  Thunder  Cape,  to  the 
westward,  rises  almost  perpendicular 
from  the  waters  of  Lake  Superior,  here 
containing  several  small  rocky  islanda 
scattered  along  the  coast. 


Silver  Island,  Lake  Superior. 


"  SiliVER  TsLET,  a  desolate  rock  some 
70  or  80  feet  Hcpiare,  project  in' ;•  from  the 
stormy  waters  of  Lake  Superior,  lies 
some  3,000  feet  away  from  the  Canadian 
Shore  of  Lake  Superior,  south  of  Thun- 
der Bay,  oft'Tlmnder  Cape,  24  miles  east 
of  Fort  William,  and  until  recently  was 
regarded  merely  as  a  danger  to  naviga- 
tion, an  object  to  be  scrupulously  avoided. 
Now,  it  is  known  that  the  rocks  of  the 
island  and  its  vicinity  are  rich  in  sil- 
ver, and  arrangements  have  been  made 
for  mining  in  them,  even  as  far  as  the 
mainland,  if  found  desirable.  The  island 
is  so  low,  and  such  a  mere  speck  in  the 
lake,  tliat  in  a  sea  the  waves  were  wont 
to  wash  entirely  over  it,  rendering  it  alto- 
gether uninhabitable,  and  presenting 
great  difficulties  in  the  way  of  opening 
a  vein.  It  became  necessary  that  break- 
waters should  be  built  all  about  it,  and 
large  expenses  incurred  before  the  loca- 
tion could  be  worked  at  all.  The  pres- 
ent owners  bought  the  property  from  a 
Montreal  Company,  and  commenced 
building  breakwaters  Sept.  1, 1870.  Be- 
fore the  close  of  navigation  in  Nov., 
thev  had  completed  their  erection,  and 
had  mined  22  days,  sending  to  the  smelt- 
ing works  in  New  Jersey  some  $100,000 
worth  of  ore. 

"  The  miners  are  now  boring  and  blast- 
ing 100  or  200  feet  below  the  surface,  and, 
though  they  will  deepen  the  passages  as 
tliey  go  forward  with  the  mine,  it  is 


thought  that  no  very  deep  work  will  be 
required,  even  in  getting  safely  beneath 
the  surface  of  the  Lake  and  working 
toward  the  mainland,  3,000  feet  distant. 
All  indications  point  to  the  great  success 
of  the  enterprise,  and  incline  one  to  the 
belief  that  this  recent  addition  to  the 
mineral  wealth  of  Lake  Superior  is  one 
of  the  most  brilliant  discoveries  that 
have  been  made  in  that  marvellous  re- 
gion." The  treasure  shipped  in  1871 
amounted  to  $820,000;  in  1872,  about 
$1,000,000. 

Silver  Islet  Settlement  is  a  flourish- 
ing village  near  Thunder  Cape,  oppo- 
site Silver  Islet,  on  the  main  shore. 
Some  60  or  80  dwellings  are  already 
erected  for  the  accommodation  of  tJie 
miners,  and  bids  fair  to  be  the  nucleus 
of  a  large  mining  town.  A  church,  a 
hotql,  and  school-house  have  been  erected 
by  the  Silver  Mining  Company. 

From  a  map  issued  by  the  Crown  Land 
Department  of  Canada,  showing  a  pro- 
posed route  around  the  North  Shore  of 
Lake  Superior,  it  gives  the  course  of 
numerous  streams  and  locates  some  good 
timbered  lands.  The  trees  are  mostly 
birch,  balsam,  cedar,  spruce,  pine,  and 
hard  maple  on  the  high  ridges.  Iron, 
copper,  and  silver  ore  are  also  found  for  a 
distance  of  400  or  500  miles  from  near 
Saut  Ste.  Marie  to  Prince  Arthur's  Land- 
ing, situated  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Kaministiquia  River. 


Bt^Rip  r 


PRINCE  ARTHUR'S   LANDING. 


189 


Land 
j)ro- 

re  of 

se  of 
good 

lostly 
,  and 
Iron, 
for  a 
near 
jand- 
f  the 


TnuNPER  Bay  presents  a  larRc  ex- 
panse of  water,  being  about  25  miles  in 
length  and  from  10  to  lo  miles  wide, 
into  which  flow  Heveral  small  streams, 
abounding  in  speckled  trout.  Thunder 
Cape,  on  the  east,  is  a  most  remarkable 
and  bold  highland,  being  elevated  1,350 
feet  above  Lake  Superior.  It  rises  in 
some  i)laces  almost  perpendicular,  pre- 
senting a  basaltic  appearance,  having  on 
its  summit  an  extinct  volcano.  From 
the  elevated  portions  of  this  cape  a  grand 
and  imposing  view  is  obtained  of  sur- 
rounding mountains,  headlands,  and 
islands  —  overlooking  hie  lloyale  to  the 
Bouth,  and  the  north  shore  from  McKay's 
Mountain  to  the  mouth  of  Pigeon  Kiver, 
near  Grand  Portage,  Minn. 

Thunder  Bay  and  its  vicinity  has  long 
been  the  favorite  residence  of  Indian 
tribes  who  now  roam  over  this  vast  sec- 
tion of  country,  from  Lake  Superior  to 
Hudson  Bav  on  the  north.  The  moun- 
tain peaks  they  look  upon  with  awe  and 
veneration,  often  ascribing  some  fabulous 
legend  to  prominent  localities.  A  learned 
Missionary,  in  describing  this  interesting 
portion  of  Lake  Superior  and  its  inhabi- 
tants, remarked,  that  "the  old  Indians 
were  of  the  opinion  that  thunder  clouds 
are  Lirge  gigantic  birds,  having  their 
nests  on  high  hills  or  mountains,  and  who 
make  themselves  heard  and  seen  very  far 
off*.  The  liead  they  described  as  resem- 
bling that  of  a  huge  eagle,  having  on  one 
side  a  wing  and  one  paw,  on  the  other 
Bide  an  arm  and  one  foot.  The  lightning 
is  supposed  to  issue  from  the  extremity 
of  the  beak  through  the  paw,  with  which 
they  launch  it  forth  in  fiery  darts  over 
the  surrounding  country." 

Pie  Island,  in  the  Indian  dialect 
called  ^^3Iahkcnceng"  or  Tortoise,  bound- 
ing Thunder  Bay  on  the  south,  is  about 
8  miles  long  and  5  miles  wide,  and  pre- 
sents a  most  singular  appearance,  being 
elevated  at  one  point  850  feet  above  the 
lake.  This  bold  eminence  is  shaped  like 
an  enormous  slouched  hat,  or  inverted  pie, 


giving  name  to  tlie  island  by  tlie  French 
or  English  explorers,  while  the  Indians 
gave  it  the  name  of  tortoise  from  its  sin- 
gular shape.  This  elevated  point  is  ba- 
saltic, rising  perpendicular  near  the  top, 
like  the  l'ali«adcs  of  the  Hudson  Kiver. 


Prince  Arthur's  Landing,  District  of 
Thunder  Bay,  Out.,  is  favorably  situateil 
on  the  west  side  of  Thunder  Bay,  'Sh 
miles  north  of  Fort  Willinm.  Here  is 
a  government  wharf,  a  court-house  and 
register's  ofhce,  a  town  hall,  2  churches, 
4  hotels,  12  or  15  stores,  about  200  dwell- 
ing houses,  and  800  inhabitants. 

A  government  road  extends  from  this 
Landing  westward  toward  Fort  (Jarry, 
Manitoba.  There  are  also  in  the  vicinity 
several  rich  silver  mines,  as  yet  but  j)ar- 
tially  developed. 

Current  Kiver,  3  miles  above  Prince 
Arthur's  Landing,  is  a  dashing  trout 
stream,  where  is  a  beautiful  fall  near 
the  shore  of  Thunder  Bay.  On  McKen- 
zi^s  River,  about  20  miles  north-east,  are 
found  rich  deposits  of  amethyst. 

The  view  presented  on  approaching 
Thunder  Bay  is  perhaps  the  grandest 
sight  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Superior. 
Here  may  be  seen  from  the  deck  of  the 
steamer  Thunder  Cape,  with  its  Sleeping 
Giant;  Pie  Island,  assuming  the  singu- 
lar shape  of  a  slouched  hat ;  McKuxfs 
Mountain,  lying  westward  on  the  main 
land  ;  the  Welcome  Islands,  and  numerous 
other  islands  and  headlands  in  the  dis- 
tance, altogeth.T  presenting  a  most  mag- 
nificent view  of  land  and  water. 

The  Military  Road,  running  from 
Prince  Arthur's  Landing  to  Manitoba, 
is  443  miles  in  length,  of  which  138  is 
by  land  (eleven  portages)  and  305  miles 
by  water.  This  route  passes  through 
Lake  Shebandow.in  ana  the  new  gold 
region,  some  60  or  70  miles  west  of 
Thunder  Bay,  Lake  Superior,  continu- 
ing westward  through  Kainy  Lake  and 
the  Lake  of  the  Woods  to  Lake  Winni- 
peg- 


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190 


LAKE  SUPERIOR  GUIDE. 


Silver  Mining  Companies  on  the 
North  Shore,  L.  S. 

AljifOiiia  Mine,  Thunder  15ay. 

3  A  Mine,  Thuii(ier  Hay. 

3  B  Mine,  Thunder  liny. 

Cornish  Mine,  Tiuinder  Hay. 

Dawson  Mine,  Tiuinder  Hay. 

Ilowland  Mine,  near  I'ifjeon  Kiver. 

Jarvis  Island  Mine. 

Ontario  Mine,  Tluuider  Bay. 

Sluuiiaii,  Tluuider  Hay. 

Silver  llarhor  or  Heck,  Thunder  Bay. 

Silver  Islet,  near  North  Shore. 

Thunder  Hay  Mine. 

Trowbridge  Mine. 


Fort  William,  an  important  Ilud- 
Ron  Hay  Company's  Post,  is  advanta- 
geonslv  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ka- 
ministiquia  liiver,  in  north  latitude  48 
degrees  23  mimites,  west  longitude  89 
degrees  27  mimites.  Here  is  a  conveni- 
ent wharf  and  safe  harhor,  the  bar  off 
the  mouth  of  the  river  aHording  7  or  8 
feet  of  water,  which  can  easily  be  in- 
creased by  dredging.  The  Company's 
buildings  consist  of  a  spacious  dwelling- 
house,  a  store,  and  3  storehouses,  besides 
some  10  or  12  houses  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  the  attaches  and  servants  in  the 
employ  of  the  above  Company.  The 
land  is  cleared  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance on  both  sides  of  the  river,  present- 
ing a  thrifty  and  fertile  appearance. 
Wheat,  rye,  oats,  barley,  potatoes,  and 
most  kinds  of  vegetables  can  here  be 
raised ;  also  grass  and  clover  of  different 
kinds.  The  early  frosts  are  the  great 
hindrance  to  this  whole  section  of  coun- 
try, wliich  is  rich  in  minerals,  timber, 


furs,  and  fish  ;  altogether  producing  a 
great  source  of  wealth  to  the  conununity. 
Pine,  spruce,  hendock,  cypress,  and  bal- 
sam trees  are  common,  also  white  birch, 
sugar-maple,  elm,  and  ash,  together  with 
some  hardy  fruit- bearing  trees  and 
shnii)s. 

The  Rovian  Catholic.  Mimon,  situated 
2  miles  above  the  Company's  post,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river,  is  an  interest- 
ing locality.  Here  is  a  Homan  Catholic 
church  and  some  50  or  (10  houses,  being 
mostly  inhabited  by  half-breeds  and  civil- 
ized Indians,  numbering  al)out  300  souls. 
The  good  influence  of  the  Roman  Catho- 
lic priests  along  the  shores  of  Lake  Su- 
perior are  generally  admitted  by  all 
unprejudiced  visitors  —  the  poor  and 
often  degraded  Indian  being  instructed 
in  agriculture  and  industrial  pursuits, 
tending  to  elevate  the  human  species  in 
every  clime. 

McKay's  Mountain,  lying  3  miles  west 
of  Fort  William,  near  the  Roman  Catho- 
lic Mission,  presents  an  abrupt  and  grand 
appearance  from  the  water,  being  ele- 
vated 1,000  feet.  Far  inland  are  seen 
other  high  ranges  of  hills  and  mountains, 
presenting  altogether,  in  connection  with 
the  islands,  a  most  interesting  and  sub  • 
lime  view. 

Kaministiquia,  or  "  Oah-mahnatek- 
viaiahk"  Kiver,  signifying,  in  the  Chip- 
pewa language,  the  ^^  place  where  there  are 
many  cun-ents"  empties  its  waters  into 
Thunder  Bay.  This  beautiful  stream 
affords  navigation  for  about  12  miles, 
when  rapids  are  encountered  by  the  as- 
cending voyageur.  Some  30  miles  above 
its  mouth  is  a  fall  of  about  200  feet  per- 
pendicular descent. 


Extracts  from  Report  on  the  Geology  of  the  Lake  Superior  Country. 

Northern  Shore.  —  "Beginning  at 
Pigeon  Bay,  tiie  boundary  between  the 
United  States  and  the  British  Posses- 
sions (N.  lat.  48°),  we  find  the  eastern 
portion  of  the  peninsula  abounds  with 


bold  rocky  cliffs,  consisting  of  trap  and 
red  granite. 

"The  Falls  of  Pigeon  River,  eighty  or 
ninety  feet  in  height,  are  occasioned  by 
a  trap  dyke  which  cuts  througha  series 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  LAKE  SUPERIOR  COUNTRY. 


191 


itry. 

and 

litv  or 

led  by 
Iseries 


of  fllate  rocks  lii^lily  indurated,  and  very 
flimilar  in  niineralojiical  charactorH  to  the 
old  praywacke  grouj).  Trap  dykea  and 
interlaniinati'd  niasHt's  of  traps  were  ob- 
eerved  in  the  skite  near  the  falls. 

"The  ba:  e  of  nearly  all  tiie  ridges  and 
clifl's  between  Pi>j;eon  Kiver  and  Fort 
William  (situated  at  the  mouth  of  Ka- 
ministi([nia  Kiver),  is  made  up  of  these 
lihites  and  the  overlaving  trap.  Some 
of  the  low  islands  exhibit  only  the  gray 
grits  and  slates.  Welcome  Jdand)*,  in 
Thunder  Bay,  display  no  traps,  although 
in  the  distance  thev  resemble  igneous 
products,  the  joints  oeing  more  obvious 
than  the  planes  of  stratification,  thus 
giving  a  rude  semi-columnar  aspect  to 
the  cliffs. 

"At  Princ(^s  Bay,  and  also  along  the 
chnin  of  Islands  which  line  the  coast, 
including  Spar,  Victoria,  Jarvis,  and  Pie 


Islands,  the  slates  with  the  crowning 
traps  are  admirably  displayed.  At  the 
British  and  North  American  ('ompany'a 
works  the  slates  are  traversed  by  a  heavy 
vein  of  cale-sparand  ainethystiiio  (piartz, 
yielding  gray  sulphuret  and  |)yritous 
copper   and   galena.      From    the    vein 


where  it  cuts  the  overlaving  trap  on  the 

' "erable 
extracted. 


main  shore,  considi 


silver  has  been 


"  At  'Thunder  Cape,  the  slates  form  one 
of  the  most  picturescjue  headlands  on 
the  whole  coast  of  Lake  Superior.  They 
are  made  up  of  variously-colored  beds, 
such  as  compose  the  upper  group  of  Sm 
Wm.  Logan,  and  re|)ose  in  a  nearly  hor- 
izontal position.  These  detrital  rocks 
attain  a  thickness  of  nearlv  a  thousand 
feet,  and  are  crowned  with  a  sheet  of 
trappean  rock  three  hundred  feet  in 
thickness." 


Specklkd  Troi-t  fromNbpigon  River— Weighing  5J^  lbs.  each. 


1  ■^' 


Ill 


i  ^f 


(f 


ISLE  R07ALE  — LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


As  this  large  and  important  Island, 
attached  to  Michigan,  is  attracting  much 
attention,  owing  to  its  mineral  deposits, 
we  copy  the  following  account  from  a 
late  number  of  the  Ontonagon  Miner, 
May,  1874. 

"  The  Island  is  situated  near  the  North 
Shore,  but  at  the  time  the  treaty  was 
made  with  Great  Britain,  Eenjamin 
Franklin  secured  it  for  the  United 
States.  Its  general  course  is  north-east 
and  south-west;  its  length  about  40 
miles.  The  western  end  is  about  10  miles 
wide,  narrowing  toward  the  east ;  distant 
60  miles  nortli  from  Ontonagon. 

"  The  surface  of  the  island  is  lOiigh 
and  uninviting,  although  healthy  and 
cool  during  the  summer  months.  It  is 
almost  entirely  destitute  of  a  large 
growth  of  timber,  its  chief  supply  being 
cedar,  spruce  and  tamarack.  Its  shores 
are  indented  with  numerous  bays  and 
harbors,  many  of  them  bei:"g  large 
enough  for  the  entrance  of  steamers  and 
sailing  craft.  In  the  early  days  of  min- 
ing on  Lake  Superior,  Isle  Royale  at- 
tracted much  attention,  —  say  from  1850 
to  1860.  It  was  then  abandoned,  and 
the  few  dwellings  erected  allowed  to  go 
to  decay. 

"  During  the  summer  of  1872  an  ex- 
tensive system  of  exploration  was  com- 
menced in  different  parts  of  the  Island. 
Numerous  pits  and  Indian  diggings  were 
found  and  opened,  and  the  veins  proved 
to  be  of  so  much  promise  that  work  was 
continued  throughout  the  season  of  1873, 
and  belts  of  rich  copper-bearing  con- 


glomerates were  found  and  opened,  being 
mostly  situated  in  Sections  29  and  30, 
Town  64  North  of  Range  37  West.  A 
company  was  formed,  called  the  Island 
Minincj  Company,  and  a  large  force  of 
miners  set  to  work  last  fall. 

"  A  vein  of  silver,  apparently  of  great 
promise,  has  also  been  discovered  on  the 
western  end  of  the  Island.  This  will,  no 
doubt,  be  followed  by  other  important 
discoveries,  as  it  lies  on  the  same  range 
witli  Silver  Islet,  some  20  or  30  miles 
north,  situated  on  the  Canada  shore." 

Lake  Desor  and  Siskowit  Lake  are 
considerable  bodies  of  water,  lying  near 
the  middle  of  the  Island.  There  are 
also  a  number  of  islands  along  the  coast, 
where  are  several  good  fishing  stations. 

Blake's  Point  lies  on  the  extreme  north 
end  of  t)ie  Island.  .To  the  N.E.,  dis- 
tant 3  miles,  lies  Passage  Island,  and  5 
miles  farther  north  are  the  Gull  Islands, 
all  being  attached  to  the  United  States ; 
the  boundary  line  of  Canada  running 
immediately  north,  in  latitude  48°  15', 
being  the  most  northern  bounds  of  the 
United  States  east  of  the  Lake  of  the 
Woods. 

Steamers  now  run  from  ports  on  the 
South  Shore  and  from  Duluth  to  Sis- 
kowit Bay,  Washington  Harbor,  and 
Rock  Island  Harbor,  Isle  Royale ;  also, 
to  Pigeon  River,  Thunder  Bay,  and  Sil- 
ver Islet,  forming  a  deeply  interesting 
excursion  during  the  summer  months. 

in 


'    ;   :  r  !  I 


fii: 


LATITUDE,  ELEVATION    ABOVE  SEA  •  LEVEL  AND    MEAN 

ANNUAL  TEMPERATURE  OF  SIGNAL  STATIONS 

ON  THE  UPPER  LAKES. 


Ion  the 
Ito  Sis- 
\r,   and 
also, 
ind  Sil- 
breBting 
ntlia. 
2 


Alpena,  (Lake  Huron,)  Mich. 
Latitude,  45°  05^ 
Longitude,  83°  30'. 
Elevation  of  Barometer,  608  feet. 
Mean  Annual  Temp.,  43°  Fahr. 

Buffalo,  (Lake  Erie,)  N.  Y. 
Latitude,  42°  53^ 
Longitude,  78°  55^ 
Elevation  of  Barometer,  660  feet. 
Mean  Annual  Temp.,  46i°  Fahr. 

Chicago,  (L.  Michigan,)  111. 
Latitude,  41°  52^ 
Longitude,  87°  38'. 
Elevation  of  Barometer,  650  feet. 
Mean  Annual  Temp.,  47°  Fahr. 

Copper  Harbor,*  (L.  S.,)  Mich. 
Latitude,  47°  30'. 
Longitude,  88°  00'. 
Elevation  of  Barometer,  620  feet. 
M«an  Annual  Temp.,  40°  Fahr. 

Cleveland,  (Lake  Erie,)  Ohio. 
Latitude,  41°  30'. 
Longitude,  81°  74'. 
ElevJ'tion  of  Barometer,  682  feet. 
Mean  Annual  Temp.,  49°  Fahr. 

Detroit,  (Detroit  River,)  Mich. 
Latitude,  42°  21'. 
Longitude,  83°  07'. 
Elevation  of  Barometer,  656  feet. 
Mean  Annual  Temp.,  47°  Fahr. 

DuLUTH.  (L.  S.,)  Minn. 
Latitude.  46°  48'. 
Longitude,  92°  06'. 
Elevation  of  Barometer,  642  feet. 
Mean  Annual  Temp.,  40°  Fahr. 


Erie,  (Lake  Erie,)  Penna. 
Latitude,  42°  07'. 
Longitude,  80°  03'. 
Elevation  of  Barometer,  671  feet. 
Mean  Annual  Temp.,  48°  Fahr. 

EscANABA,  (Green  Bay,)  Wis. 
Latitude,  46°  44'. 
Longitude,  87°  16' 
Elevation  of  Barometer,  600  feet. 
Mean  Annual  Temp.,  41°  Falir. 

Grand  Haven,  (L.  M.,)  Mich. 
Latitude,  43°  05'. 
Longitude,  86°  15'. 
Elevation  of  Barometer,  616  feet. 
Mean  Annual  Temp.,  47°  Fahr. 

Mackinac,*  (Lake  Huron,)  Mich. 
Latitude,  45°  51'. 
Longitude,  84°  33'. 
Elevation  of  Barometer,  700jfeet. 
Mean  Annual  Temp.,  41°  Falir. 

Marquette,  (L.  S.,)  Mich. 
Latitude,  46°  33'. 
Longitude,  87°  36'. 
Elevation  of  Barometer,  666  feet. 
Mean  Annual  Temp.,  40°  Fahr. 

Milwaukee,  (L.  M.,)  Wis. 
Latitude,  43°  03'. 
Longitude,  87°  54'. 
Elevation  of  Barometer,  661  feet. 
Mean  Annual  Temp.,  46J°  Fahr. 

Toledo,  (Lake  Erie,)  Ohio. 
Latitude,  41°  40'. 
Longitude,  83°  32'. 
Elevation  of  Barometer,  649  feet. 
Mean  Annual  Temp.,  50°  Fahr. 


iPI^ 


NOTB.— Variatiou  of  Mean  .Annual  Temperature,  from  40°  to  60°  Fahr. 
•  Not  Signal  Statiouu. 

13  193 


II 


Am 


ii 
If 


LAJftE    SUPERIOR, 

Its  Bays,  Harbors,  Islands,  Tributaries,  &c. 

Objects  of  Interest  on  the  Soitth  Shore. 


Saut  Stc.  marlc,  Mich.  N. 

lat.   46^30',    W.   long.    84°43'. 
Head  of  Ship  Canal  andRapida, 

Round  Island  and  Light, 

Waiska  Bay, 

Iroquois  Point  and  Light, 

Toquamenon  Bay  and  River, .... 

White  Fish  Point  and  Light, 

Carp  River 

Two-Heart  River, 

Sucker  River,    

Grand  Marais  River,   

Grand  Soublo,  300  feet  high,. . . . 

Cascade  Falls,  100  feet, 

The  Chapel, " 

Arched  Rock,  or  Grand 
Portail, I  Pictured 

Sail  Rock, [  Rocks. 

The  Ainpliitheatre,  ... 

Miner's  Castlo,  &  River,  ^ 

Grand  Island  and  Harlaor, 

Munising,  and  Iron  Works 

Onota,  Schoolcraft  Co 

Au  Train  Island,  and  River .... 

Au  Sauble  River, 

Harvey,  Mouth  Chocolat  River, . . 

Marquette  ♦  and  Light,  N.  lat. 
4G°32',  W.  long.  87°41' 

Dead  River, 

Presque  Isle, 

Middle  Island, 

Granite  Point  and  Island, 

Garlic  River, 

Little  Iron  River,  and  Lake  Inde- 
pendence   

Salmon  Trout  River, 

Pine  River  and  Lake 

Huron  Islands  and  Light, 

Huron  Bay,  

Point  Abbaye, 

Keweenaw  Bay  (13  miles  wide) 
VAncc,  and  Settlement  (South),  . 


Miles. 


6- 
2- 


•7—10 

9—25 
15—40 
20—60 

6—66 
12—78 
12—90 
10-100 
18-118 

2-120 

4-124 
2-126 
2-128 
3-131 
3-134 
2-136 
4-140 
9-149 
6-155 
12-167 

3-170 
2-172 
1-173 
2-175 
5-180 
8-188 

10-198 
8-206 
6-212 

10-222 
6-228 
4-232 


13-245 


Miles. 

Portage  Entry  and  Light  (West), .  245 

Portage  Lake, 6-251 

Houghton,  f  N.  lat.  46°40',  W. 

long,  88°30' 8-259 

Hancock,\ 1-260 

Head  of  Portage  Lake  (8  miles),  268 

Traverse    Island    from    Portage 

Entry, 10-355 

Tobacco  River, 12-267 

Lac  La  Belle,  f  and  Bete  GriseBay    14-281 
Mount  Houghton  (900  feet  high), 
Montreal  River  (Fishing  Station),     6-281 

Keweenaw  Point, 8-295 

Manitou  Island  and  Light 3-298 

CofPEH  HARBOR.t  N,  lat.  47°30', 

W.  long,  "ir, 10-308 

Agate  Harbor, 10-318 

Eagle  llarhor  f  and  Light, 6-324 

Eagle  River,  f  N.   lat.   47°25', 

W.  long,  88°20', 9-333 

Entrance  to  Ship  Canal  &  Portage 

Lake  Route, 20-355 

Salmon  Trout  River, 8-366 

Graveraet  River, 5-366 

Elm  River, 8-374 

Misery  River 5-379 

Sleeping  River, 6-385 

Flint  Steel  River, 6-391 

Ontonagon,!  N.  lat,  46°52',  W. 

long.  S9°30' 9-400 

Iron  River, 1 1-41 1 

Porcupine  Mount'ns,  1,300  ft,  high,    8-419 

Carp  River, 10-429 

Presque  Isle  River, 6-435 

Black  River, 6-441 

Montreal  Jiiver  boundary  between 

Michigan  and  Wisconsin, 20-461 

Maskeg,  or  Bad  River 10-471 

Chaquamegon  Point, Bay,&Light,  11-482 
Athland,  Wisconsin,  head  Chaqua- 
megon Bay. 


194 


LAKE   SUPERIOR — OBJECTS    OF   INTEREST. 


195 


19-400 
.1^11 
8-419 
10-429 
[6-435 
16-441 

20-461 
10-411 

Ll-482 


Miles. 

La  Pointe,  Madeline  Island, 3-485 

(The  Twelve  Apostle  Islands). 
Bayfield,     Wisconsin,     N.    lat. 

46°45',  W.  long.  'JV3', 3-488 

Basswood  Island, 7-495 

Raspberry  Island,  and  Light, G-501 

York  Island, 4-505 

Fishing  Island, 4-509 

Bark  Bay  and  Point,   10-519 

Apnkwa,  or  Cranberry  River,  . . .  6-525 

Iron  River,    10-535 

*  Shipping  Port  for  Iron. 


Burnt  Wood  River, 

Poplar  River,    

Cotton  Wood  River, 

Amican  River 

Mouth  Nemadje,   or   Left   Hand 
River,  (Alloues  Bay). 

Wisconsin  Point, 

Minnesota  Point  and  Light,   .... 
St.  Louis  Bay  and  River. 
Superior  C'Ify,  Wisconsin, 
I>uluth,  Minnesota 

f  Shipping  Ports  for  Copper. 


Objects  of  Interest  on  the  North  Shore. 


Superior    City,  Wisconsin, 
K  lat.  46°  40',  W.  long.  92°, 
(Superior  Bay. J 
I>ll1uth,  Minn 

Ler-ter  River, 

Kassabika  River, 

French  River  (Copper  Mines),  . . . 

Bttchanon, 

Knife  River  (Copper  Mines),    . . . 

Burlington, 

Stewart's  River, 

Encnnipnient  River  and  Island  . . 

Split  Rock  River, 

Beaver  Bay,  N.   lat.    47°12',    W. 

long.  9r 

Palisades, 

Baptism  River, 

Little  Marais, 

Manitou  River, 

Two- island  River, 

Temperance  River, 

Poplar  River, 

Grand    Portage,    Indian    trading 

post,  N.  lat.  47' 50',  W.  long. 

90° , 

Isle  Royal,  attached  to  Micliigan, 
Pigeon  River,  boundary  between 

the  United  States  and  Canada, 

Pie  Island,  700  feet  high, 

Welcome  Island, 

Mouth  KaminiBtiquia  River, 


Miles. 


7 
5—12 
7—19 
3—22 
4—26 
1—27 
10—37 
3—40 
3—43 
7—50 

10—60 
5—65 
1— 06 
6—72 
3—75 
8—83 
6—88 
6—94 


16-110 


10-120 

20-140 

7-147 


lat. 


Fort  William,    Canada,  N, 
48°23',  W.  long.  89"^  27', 

Prince  Arthur's  Landing,  3§  miles 

Thunder  Cape,  1,350  feet  high,. . 

Silver  Islet,  Canada, 

Black  Bay, 

Point  Porphyry, 

Entrance  to  Neepigon  Bay  &  River 

Ste.  Ignace  Island, 

Slate  Islands, 

Pic  Island, 

Peninsula  Harbor, 

Pic  River  and  Harbor, 

Otter  Island,  Head  and  Cove,  . . . 

Michipicoten  Island,  800  ft.  high, 

Michipicoten,   Harbor    and  River, 
N.  lat.  47 "56',  W.  long.  SS'Oe'. 

Cape  Gargautua, 

Leach  Island,    

Lizard  Islands, 

Montreal  Island  and  River, 

!N[ica  Bay  (Copper  Mine), 

Mamainse  Point, 

Batchevvanaung  Bay  (Fishing  St'n) 

Sandy  Islands, 

Maple  Island, 

Goulois  Bay  and  Poiut, 

Pansion  Island,    

Gros  Cap,  700  feet  high, 

Point  Au.x  Pins, 

Saut  Ste.  marie,  Canada,  . . 


MilM. 

10-545 
9-554 
4-558 
2-560 


1-568 

1-569 
7-576 


Miles. 
3-150 

15-1G5 

6-170 

5-175 

5-180 

80-210 

10-220 

30-250 

15-265 

8-273 

10-28,3 

30-313 

25-338 

45-383 

25-103 

12-420 

6-42G 

14-440 

20-400 

6-466 

10-476 

4-480 

7-^184 

8-195 

5-500 

10-510 

7-517 

8-625 


196 

RAILROAD   AND    STEAMBOAT   ROUTE, 

FROM  CHICAGO  TO  GREEN  BAY  AND  MARQUETTE,  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


J..  ik-'X    jt^-ar'X"!!!' 


irir 


Chicago  and  North- Western 
Mailroad. 

MILES.                                     STATIONS,  MILES. 

242  CHICAGO 0 

230  Canlield 12 

225  DesPlaines 5  17 

220  Dunton 5  22 

216  Palatine 4  26 

210  Barrington 6  32 

199  Crystal  Lake 11  43 

196  Ridgefield 3  46 

191  Woodstock 5  51 

179  Harvard  Junction 12  63 

177  Lawrence 2  65 

164  Clinton  Junction 13  78 

160  .Shopiere 4  82 

151  Jaiiesville 9  91 

143  Milton  Junction 8  99 

131  Fort  Atkinson 12  111 

125  Jefferson 6  117 

120  Johnson's  Creek 5  122 

112  Watertown 8  130 

97  Juneau 15  145 

94  Minn.  Junction* 3  148 

90  Burnett 4  152 


MILES.                                     STATIONS.  MILES. 

82    Chester 8  160 

74    Oakfield 8  168 

65    Fonfl  dii  liac 9  177 

49    OsHKOsii 6  193 

35    Neenah 14  207 

29    Appleton 6  213 

24    Little  Chute 5  218 

21     Kaukauna 3  221 

16    Wrightstown 5  226 

6    DePere 10  236 

0    Fort  Howard 6  242 

Green  Bay 0 

189    GREEN  BAY, 242 

161    Oconto 28  270 

140    Marinette 21  291 

138    Menomonee 2  293 

74    £scanaba 64  357 

Peninsula  Division. 

61    Day's  River 13  370 

54    Centerville 17  387 

12    Neoaunee 32  419 

Marquette,  Houghton  &  Ontonagon  B.  B. 

0    MAUiiUETTE 12  431 


Steamers  run  daily  from  Marquette  to  the  Saut  Ste.  Marie  on  the  East, 
170  miles;  and  to  Houghton,  Ontonagon,  Bayfield,  and  Duluth  on  the  West; 
a  total  distance  of  400  miles, — passing  around  Keweenaw  Point.  This  distance 
can  be  shortened  about  100  miles  by  passing  the  Portage  and  Lake  Superior 
Ship  Canal. 


Tinr 


LE8. 
160 

168 
L77 
193 
207 
213 
218 
221 
226 
236 
242 
0 

242 

270 
291 
293 
357 

J70 

i87 
119 

B. 
131 


ast, 
est; 
nee 
•ior 


I 


^ijiM  mil  »    ilii^y  iliiiliiilllii 


m 


m 


197 


ThoI*lCTTrKt'l.>K<'K-KS,ofwhio}t,'»{iju.wt' 
fabulous  acoovints  are  given  hv  t  ra^'vUcrs, 
ureoi)eofthe'.voiKl.:r»Gftl)if"inUtuif5ea." 
Hero  aro  to  bo  seea  tiio  CiLsoule  Faiu  ujhI 
other  objects  of  groat  iutereat.    The  Am- 1 
phirliOtirTft,  Mimtrs'  ("laatlo,  Clidi,el,  Oraud 
Porta],  and  B,iU  Rock,  ary  poiaca  ofKron:  j 
pioturcsij'ia  btduty,  whii"-!!  require  to  ha  i 
«©yn  to  bo  justly  appreciaioii. 

KdraH  from  FoSTEB  and  WniTXRT'-^  \ 
Bt'por;  of  thy  (hx>iogy  of  the  Lakv  SajKi- ' 
rior  I.an'i  Di-ilnc! : 

I*i«'tJjro<l   Rocks, — ''TL'-  rantp: 
of  cUtVd  !o  wi'.KiL.  I'u'j  iir>mtt  of  tho  I'ictti; 
ed  li/ioks  has  been  giveu,  may  be  rerrHrd- 
ed  as  ttiii' 'ut  tho  rad'it  Btrikiu^  and   bea>.i 
tifui  iV.'itari^s  ot"  Un*  ac.-uei  y  of  (be  Nonh- 
we^',  aud  aro  ■well  v.'orthv   th:-  aif  .ntio.^' 
of  tiio  arli.t,  tko  lover  of  ti*^  grand  and 
beinitifuL  aud  the  ob8er\«r  >,(  g».-olofpoai  i 
phonomorva. 

' -Utiioii^h  ov'caaifiiially  visitod  hy  (ra* 
cIUts,  a  full  am?  >A^iu3t6  de^^vn{J|^<tJl  ; 
thiri  e.ttvjiordiMary  looility  haa  tiot  »■•  v.. 
been  couiiniuiiicjtt.ed  to  tho  pubUt'  * 

''Trie  ['idured  JL-cks  may  be  de-H. >?:■:.•••.. 
ill  gp'ipful  terms,  as  a  serie*?  of  SiUnlsUJiii  . 
oiuffa  oitiMuliug  alonqr  tlu;  Hhoro  yf  La-ko 
j-jjperior  lor  ubout  live  miloss,  und  risiajf, 
til  most  piHcea,  vertically  from  the  water, 
without  any  beach  at  tho  baso,  to  .nlioigbt 
varyitiij  from  lifiy  to  netirly  two  hundred 


•  Schoolcraft  haa  undiTfHkeri  u>  (losoritMS  t'sl* 
«inj?f  of  c!iil"»,  ami  iUnslrat'i  th"  h-.^uriy.  The 
nfeetchcs  tif  not  appear  tti  fmvc  Xm-i-n  made  ori  tlifl 
sjnit,  >r  fii)!.''hu(t  by  one  wln»  was  ucouaiiitcMl  wtlh 
tho  :".-.acry,  as  they  bear  no.ri.'wmliUiiioo,  »o  fir 
A(  we  oliftcrvert,  to  iiny  of.  tho  proiiiiiieut  foatur*» 
of  t'l'j  Pitiurfd  Bwka, 

"  It  Is  H  (iiatt«r  «>f  surprise  that,  io  fir  a^  we 
kn"w,  niiii''*  t»four  arli.<ts  )uive  vis!N,-4  tlil«  pi^jjico, 
aud  trivi.'n  ti)  the  worl  i  ro{»r'?fMlailou«  of  V'sii^.Ty 
BO  strikinp.  ind  so  (JiOi-rcnt  /rom  my  wbiorj  «iri 
U'  found  ''isttwhfTii.  Wo  can  hardly  ron^-j'-lvfi  of 
any  tht.ng  rnoro  worthy  of  Uio  nrtlst**  t»<>0'3ll  : 
v»nil  If  Ihii  tide  of  pli'rti«ur«-travcl  sh'mlil  <Mife  t><; 
••irnoil  in  tlii»  dirwrtloii;  it  B«ems  not  nnr««Moii- 
ibie  to  !ii][>(i<>»«  tluu  A  &shi(>iinblu  h<>tv]  mny  yut 
Ik;  built  umler  tht»  shade  <\(  tlio  pino  gr<)Vv«  n<i»r 
\h>:  V'JittiH't,  ■Mid  a  'rip  t.iiltlKr  Deconic  «s  cu'ninim 
<*4  one  lo  Xiagora  iiovv  js."' 


feot.  Wero  they  simply  ft  lino  of  difTk, 
tU:y  mitjht  not,  ho  fur  ti.^  r*<lala'«  tc  '.;',— .r»it 
or  *'xti'ut,  be  wort'.v  ,.t  >»  rank  ■Ha.-Ty.; 
i^retts  natural  curioaitie*  with  nig:!:  i«'»-  :; 
ikn  »iHi«embla^e  of  rocky  ,stratH,  wafibf]  >:« 
tJiT*  waves  of  the  preat  latkt-,  v.Oi.id  <.•%■ 
utidtr  any  ciruimi.sUmces,  la;  u<»(«ii,utp>  of 
graii'J-tir.  i'o  tiiO  voyager  oomul/  •^'■f-nf 
llieir  '.•wo  in  liig  frail  wiiuhj  they  would, 
at  al*  iiHwa,  be  an  object  of  dn-ad;  Ij.t? 
r<n«il  of  .he  Hurf,  the  rookhoiiii  !  c'Mi^t, 
.Mf^irdi'ig  for  reiloM  no  plu<;e  of  rt-tuge;  the 
i.'i^'t'rhi^  eky,  tho  rieinfi-  wind;  .ill  thea"^ 
•^•^.'rffet  "vcite  his  apprehension,  and  induce 
Ioh»  ■«..  j.'!y  tb  vigorous  oar  until  llio 
'.I  .nil  wu.H  jMi«4««d.      Biif    ia  tho 

kp  there  are  two  features 
w  >  .  ,  I.  ..-'.j'p'Mk'  t-<»  the  Btx^ncrv  a  w-i)- 
oi-r.  -u  *;*«)!  .•■!'.?■••.:  -iiu^uw  chwruUi'v  Tlies« 
V<  :if*t,  th*»  iHinou;*  tMutiMir  iii  which  t!;»» 

■"    '  ».vo  b«.trta  excravatod  ruui  worn  av\  ly 

•  iiclwn  of  the-  laky,  which  f^r  oca- 

IMis     d;tsht'd    an  ootjanlikt.--  siirf 

••.iifr  f-a#f!;  and,  noLond,  liiu^.jital- 

'-«»tjsi«fr  m  whi<ii  Uirv:e  [hjn,is);;3 

.r  '-e»v»'  t>«"-H*!!i  ot4'.Hf«d  *  v  baodi? 

x-ft  d'octmatan-'e  tl^it 
I      :..  .    .  . .  thi'Be  cliffj.  arc  kt)"\va 

toUi*  A 'i»v^''a!>  travelk^r is  derived;  while 
»t.»n-  ft{u:h«<j  id  r.hcm  b.v  the  rrouoh  iv^^a- 
!j<f«tr^  (•  !:•«/<  t'ortmls'*)  is  derived  iYoni  the 
Pk'jo*!-,  and  by  fur  tha  most  fltrikirig  pe- 
culianty. 

"  rbe  term  Viciur^ui  Rix.'hj)  has  been  ia 
,.">*>  hit  *  prt'.'il  lentrth  of  time,  b;jf.  wlien 
It  ^is'as  •fi'-st  rtppliod  we  liuvo  been  auablf) 
to  'itst^.'VHr. 

"Til."-  I?fdijaa  rsamoapphed  totheHecliiVa, 
ac^ordi^j.*  io  our  iwii'-yctt/.*,  is  ii'-i.k-ne.e- 
arr/.M  knof.  or  'The  end  of  the  rcH.'ks,' 


•<:»   i'-fta!!  in  a   Krt-nch  torni,  si^ilyiii!^  tho   ' 
(■  iirnfice   of  a  chiircb    or  a  ymrtM,  and 

i'  ;i:t  pIVKii    to  the   IMcturt^d  IJ.Kskn  by 

thv   ■^■<i,'"trit,  ovfilvrttly  In  hHusumi  .'i  thi>  archea 
•»tjl«Ai.c«'!'  wlitP.h  roDRticuto  th"  rtix*'    tli'i'TW'tfi*- 
t!<;   /.-(.tiU'i ,     I/'  Uriiid  l\iit;iil  »»  tlio  gr^-ai  VH", 
•tniy  nr  (^i',<ind  I'or-taL 


i 


1 

UJ 

'  -i    1  '  ■  .^ 


197 


Mf,i; 


The  Pictured  Rocks,  of  which  almost 
fabulous  accounts  are  given  by  travellers, 
areoneofthewondersofthis"InlandSea." 
Here  are  to  be  seen  the  Casccuie  Falls  and 
other  objects  of  great  interest.  The  Am- 
phitheatre, Miners'  Castle,  Chapel,  Grand 
Portal,  and  Sail  Rock,  are  points  of  great 
picturesque  beauty,  which  require  to  be 
Been  to  be  justly  appreciated. 

Extract  from  Foster  and  Whitney's 
Report  of  the  Geology  of  the  Lake  Supe- 
rior Land  District : 

Pictured  KockH. — "  The  range 
of  chfls  to  which  the  name  of  the  Pictur- 
ed Rocks  has  been  given,  may  be  regard- 
ed as  among  the  most  striking  and  beau- 
tiful features  of  the  scenery  of  the  North- 
west, and  are  well  worthy  the  attention 
of  the  artist,  the  lover  of  the  grand  and 
beautiful,  and  the  observer  of  geological 
phenomena. 

"Although  occasionally  visited  by  trav- 
ellers, a  full  and  accurate  description  of 
this  extraordinary  locahty  has  not  as  yet 
been  communicated  to  the  public* 

"The  i'ic<Mred  Hocks  may  be  described, 
in  general  terms,  as  a  series  of  sandstone 
bluffs  extending  along  the  shore  of  Lake 
Superior  for  about  five  miles,  and  rising, 
in  most  places,  vertically  from  the  water, 
without  any  beach  at  the  base,  to  a  height 
varying  from  fifty  to  nearly  two  hundred 


♦  Schoolcraft  has  undertaken  to  describe  this 
range  of  clilFs,  and  illustrate  the  scenery.  The 
sketches  do  not  appear  to  have  been  made  on  the 
spot,  or  finished  by  one  who  was  acquainted  with 
the  scenery,  as  they  bear  no  resemblance,  so  far 
as  we  observed,  to  any  of  the  prominent  features 
of  the  Pictured  Rocks. 

"  It  is  a  matter  of  surprise  that,  so  far  as  we 
know,  none  of  our  artists  liave  visited  this  region, 
and  given  to  the  world  representations  of  scenery 
80  striking,  and  so  ditferont  from  any  which  can 
he  found  elsewhere.  Wo  can  hardly  conceive  of 
any  thing  more  worthy  of  the  artist's  pencil ; 
and  if  the  tide  of  pleasure-travel  should  once  be 
turned  In  this  direction,  it  seems  not  unreason- 
able to  suppose  that  a  fashionable  hotel  may  yet 
be  built  under  the  shade  of  the  pine  groves  near 
the  Chapel,  and  a  trip  thither  become  as  common 
t'^8  one  to  Niagara  now  is." 


feet.  "Were  they  simply  a  line  of  cliflfe, 
they  might  not,  so  far  as  relates  to  height 
or  extent,  be  worthy  of  a  rank  among 
great  natural  curiosities,  although  such 
an  assemblage  of  rocky  strata,  washed  by 
the  waves  of  the  great  lake,  would  not, 
under  any  circumstances,  be  destitute  of 
grandeur.  To  the  voyager  coasting  along 
their  base  in  his  frail  canoe  they  would, 
at  all  times,  be  an  object  of  dread;  the 
recoil  of  the  surf,  the  rockbound  coast, 
affording  for  miles  no  place  of  refuge ;  the 
lowering  sky,  the  rising  wind;  all  these 
would  excite  his  apprehension,  and  induce 
him  to  ply  a  vigorous  oar  until  the 
dreaded  wall  was  passed.  But  in  the 
Pictured  Rocks  there  are  two  features 
which  communicate  to  the  scenery  a  won- 
derful and  almost  unique  cliaracter.  These 
are,  first,  the  curious  manner  in  whicli  the 
cliffs  have  been  excavated  and  worn  away 
by  the  action  of  the  lake,  which  for  cen- 
turies has  dashed  an  ocean-like  surf 
against  their  base;  and,  second,  the  equal- 
ly curious  manner  in  which  large  portions 
of  the  surface  have  been  colored  by  bauds 
of  brilliant  hues. 

"It  is  from  the  latter  circumstance  that 
the  name  by  whicli  these  cliffs  are  known 
to  the  American  traveller  is  derived;  while 
that  applied  to  them  by  the  French  voya- 
geurs  ('Les  Portails'*)  is  derived  from  the 
former,  and  by  far  the  most  striking  pe- 
culiarity. 

"  The  term  Pictured  Roclcs  has  been  in 
use  for  a  great  length  of  time,  but  when 
it  was  first  applied  we  have  been  unable 
to  discover. 

"The  Indian  name  applied  to  these  cliffs, 
according  to  our  voyageurs,  is  Schkme- 
arckibi-kung,  or  'The  end  of  the  rocks,' 


*  Le  Portail  is  a  French  term,  signifying  the 
principal  entrance  of  a  church  or  a  portal,  and 
this  name  was  given  to  the  Pictured  Uocks  by 
the  voyageum,  evidently  in  allusion  to  the  arched 
entrances  which  constitute  the  most  characteris- 
tic feature.  Le  (Jrand  Portail  is  the  great  arch- 
way, or  Grand  PortaL 


J 


i 


V    ■' 


193 


TRIP  THROUGH  THE  LAKES. 


V 


I 

I 


which  seemg  to  refer  to  the  fact  that,  ia 
descending  the  lake,  after  liaviuK  piissud 
them,  no  more  rocks  aro  seen  along  tlie 
shore.  Our  voycujeurs  had  many  legends 
to  relate  of  the  pranks  of  the  Mi'iini-boujou 
in  tliese  caverns,  and  in  answer  to  our  in- 
quiries seemed  disposed  to  fubrieate  sto- 
ries without  end  of  the  achievements  of 
this  Indian  deity. 

"We  will  describe  the  most  interesting 
points  in  the  series,  proceeding  from  west 
to  east.  On  leaving  Grand  Island  liarbor,* 
high  cliffs  are  seen  to  tlie  east,  which  form 
the  commencement  of  the  series  of  rocky 
proinontorie'?,  whicli  rise  vertically  from 
tlie  water  to  the  height  of  from  one  hun- 
dred to  one  hundred  and  iwenty-live  feet, 
covered  with  a  dense  canopy  of  foliage. 
Occasionally  a  small  cascade  may  be  seen 
falling  from  the  verge  to  the  base  in  an 
unbroken  curve,  or  gliding  down  the  in- 
clined face  of  the  cliff  in  a  sheet  of  white 
foam.  The  rocks  at  this  point  begin  to 
assume  fantastic  shapes ;  but  it  is  not  un- 
til having  reached  Miners'  River  that 
their  striking  peculiarities  are  observed. 

♦  The  travoUor  detiirous  of  visiting  this  scone 
ghoulil  take  iKivantiif-'o  of  one  of  tlie  steamers  or 
propellers  which  imvii.'ate  the  lake  and  liind  at 
Grand  Island,  from  which  he  can  proceed  to 
make  the  tour  of  the  interesting;  points  in  a  small 
boat.  The  lart,'e  vessels  ou  the  lake  do  not  ap- 
proacli  snilioiently  near  the  clitt'sto  allow  the  trav- 
eller to  iratlier  more  than  a  ^reneral  idea  of  their 
position  and  outlines.  To  l>e  aide  to  appreciate 
and  iin<lersland  their  extraordinary  character,  it 
is  iiidispeiisalde  to  coast  aloiitr  in  efose  proximity 
to  the  dill's  and  pass  beneath  the  (irand  I'ortal, 
which  is  only  accessible  from  the  lake,  and  to 
land  and  enter  witliiu  the  precincts  of  the  t'!iai)el. 
At  (iiand  Island,  boats,  men,  and  provisions  may 
•be  procured.  The  traveller  should  lay  in  a  uood 
supply,  if  it  is  intended  to  be  absent  Ions  enonj.'h 
to  make  a  thor<iu;.'h  examination  of  the  whole 
series.  In  fact,  an  old  voyairer  will  not  readily 
trust  himself  to  the  mercy  of  the  winds  and  waves 
of  the  lake  without  them,  as  he  may  not  unfre- 
quenily,  however  auspicious  the  weather  when 
starling,  flud  himself  weather-bound  for  days  to- 
gether. It  is  possible,  however,  in  one  day,  to 
Btiirt  from  (rrand  Island,  see  the  most  interesting 
points,  and  return.  The  distance  from  William's 
to  the  Chaiiel — the  farthest  point  of  iuterost — is 
about  lil'teeu  miles.  .  ■ 


Here  the  coast  makes  an  abrupt  turn  to 
the  eastward,  and  just  at  the  point  where 
the  rocks  break  otV  and  the  friendly  sand- 
bctich  begins,  ia  seen  one  of  the  grandest 
works  of  nature  in  her  rock-built  archi- 
tecture. We  gave  it  the  name  of  Miners' 
Castle,'  from  its  singular  resemblance  to 
the  tiirreted  entrance  and  arched  portal 
of  some  old  castle — for  instance,  that  of 
Duailiarton.  The  heiglit  of  the  advanc- 
ing mass,  in  which  the  form  of  the  Gothic 
gateway  may  be  recognized,  is  about  sev- 
enty feet,  while  that  of  tlie  main  wall 
forming  the  backgrotuid  is  about  one  hun- 
dred and  forty.  The  appearance  of  the 
openings  at  tho  base  changes  rapidly  with 
each  change  in  tho  position  of  the  spec- 
tator. On  taking  a  position  a  little  far- 
ther to  tho  right  of  that  occupied  by  the 
skctcher,  the  central  opening  appears 
more  distinctly  Hanked  on  either  side  by 
two  lateral  passages,  making  the  resem- 
blance to  au  artificial  work  stiU  more 
striking. 

"A  little  farther  east.  Miners'  River 
enters  the  lake  close  under  the  brow  of 
tho  cliff,  which  here  sinks  down  and  gives 
place  to  a  sand-bank  nearly  a  third  of  a 
mile  in  extent.  The  river  is  so  narrow 
that  it  requires  no  little  skill  on  the  part 
of  the  voyager  to  enter  its  mouth  when 
a  heavy  sea  is  rolling  in  from  the  north. 
On  the  right  bank,  a  sandy  drift  plain, 
covered  with  Norway  and  llanksian  pine, 
spreads  out,  affording  good  camping-ground 
— the  only  place  of  refuge  to  the  voyager 
until  he  reaches  Chapel  River,  live  miles 
distant,  if  we  except  a  small  sand-beach 
aliout  midway  betweeit  the  two  points, 
where,  in  case  of  necessity,  a  boat  may 
be  beached. 

"Beyond  the  sand-beach  at  Miners 
River  the  cliffs  attain  au  altitude  of  one 
hundred  and  seventy-three  feet,  and 
maintain  a  nearly  uniform  height  for  a  con- 
siderable distance.  Here  one  of  those 
cascades  of  which  we  have  before  spoken 
is  seen  foaming  down  the  rock. 


EXCURSION    AROUND    LAK»'    SUPERIOR. 


199 


ners 
one 
and 
con- 
hose 
cken 


"The  cliffs  do  not  form  straight  Unes, 
but  rather  area  of  circles,  the  Hpace  be- 
tween the  projecting  points  having  been 
worn  out  in  syinmotrical  curves,  some  of 
which  aro  of  large  dimensions.  To  one 
of  the  grandest  and  most  regularly  form- 
ed we  K'lve  the  name  of  'The  Amphi- 
theatre.' Looking  to  the  west,  anotiior 
projecting  point — its  base  worn  into  cave- 
like  forms — and  a  portion  of  the  concave 
surface  of  tlie  intervening  space  are  seen. 

*'  It  is  in  tliia  portion  of  the  series  that 
the  phenomena  of  colors  are  most  beauti- 
fully and  conspicuously  displayed.  These 
cannot  be  illustrated  by  a  more  crayon 
sketcli,  but  would  require,  to  reproduce 
the  natural  effect,  an  elaborate  drawing 
on  a  large  scale,  in  whicii  tlio  various 
combinations  of  color  should  bo  carefully 
represented.  These  colors  do  not  by  any 
meaas  cover  the  whole  surface  of  the  cliff 
even  where  they  are  most  conspicuously 
displayed,  but  are  confined  to  certain 
portions  of  the  cliffs  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Amphiliieatre  ;  tho  great  mass  of  the  sur- 
face presenting  the  natural  light-yellow 
or  raw  sienna  color  of  the  rock.  The  col- 
ors are  also  limited  in  their  vertical  range, 
rarely  extending  more  than  thirty  or  forty 
feet  above  the  water,  or  a  quarter  or  a 
third  of  the  vertical  height  of  the  cliff. 
The  prevailing  tints  consist  of  deep-brown, 
yellow,  and  gray — burnt  sienna  and 
French  gray  predominating. 

"  There  are  also  bright  blues  and  greens 
though  le^s  fre(iuent.  All  of  the  tints 
&re  fresh,  brilliant,  and  distinct,  and  har- 
monize admirably  with  one  another,  which, 
taken  in  connection  with  tho  grandeur  of 
the  arched  and  caverned  surfaces  on 
which  tliey  are  laid,  and  the  deep  and 
piire  green  of  the  water  which  heaves  and 
swells  at  the  base,  and  the  ricii  foliage 
which  waves  above,  produce  an  effect 
truly  wonderfid. 

"  Tiiey  are  not  scattered  indiscriminate- 
ly over  the  surface  of  the  rock,  but  are 
arranged  in  vertical  and  parallel  bands, 


extending  to  the  water's  edge.  Tho 
mode  of  their  production  is  undoubt- 
edly as  follows:  Hetween  tho  bamla 
or  strata  of  thick-bedded  sandst(me 
there  are  thin  seams  of  shaly  materials, 
which  are  more  or  less  charged  with  the 
metallic  oxides,  iron  largely  predomina- 
ting, with  here  and  there  a  trace  of  cojjpor 
As  the  suri'aco-wator  jiermeates  tlirough 
.the  porous  strata  it  comes  in  contact  with 
these  siuily  bands,  and,  oozing  out  from 
the  exposed  edges,  trickles  down  the  face 
of  tho  cliffs,  and  leaves  behind  a  sediment, 
colored  according  to  the  oxide  which  is 
contained  in  tlie  band  in  which  it  origi- 
nated. It  cannot,  however,  be  denied  that 
there  are  some  peculiarities  which  it  is 
diiticult  to  explain  by  any  hypothesis. 

"  On  lirst  examining  the  Pictured  Rocka, 
we  were  forcibly  struck  with  the  brilliancy 
and  beauty  of  the  colors,  and  wondered 
wliy  some  of  our  predecessors,  in  their 
descriptions,  had  hardly  adverted  to  what 
we  regarded  as  their  most  characteristic 
feature.  At  a  subsequent  visit  wo  were 
surprised  to  lind  that  the  effect  of  liie 
colors  was  much  less  striking  than  be- 
fore ;  tliey  seemed  faded  out,  leaving  only 
traces  of  their  former  brilliancy,  so  that 
the  traveller  might  regard  tiiis  as  an  un- 
important feature  in  the  scenery.  It  ia 
difficidt  to  account  for  this  change,  but  it 
may  be  due  to  the  dryness  or  humidity  of 
the  season.  If  the  colors  are  produced 
by  tho  percolation  of  tho  water  tjjrough 
the  strata,  taking  up  and  depositing  the 
colored  sediments,  as  before  suggested,  it 
is  evident  that  a  long  period  of  drought 
would  cut  off  tho  supply  of  moisture,  and 
the  colors,  being  no  longer  renewed, 
would  fade,  and  tinally  disapjiear.  This 
explanation  seems  reasonable,  for  at  tlie 
time  of  our  second  visit  the  beds  of  the 
streams  on  the  summit  of  the  table-land 
were  dry. 

"It  is  a  curious  fact,  that  the  colors 
are  so  tirmly  attached  to  the  surface  that 
they  are  very  little  affected  by  rains  or 


|l! 


M 


200 


TRIP  THROUOH  THE  LAKBS. 


the  dashing  ot'  the  surf,  nince  they  were, 
in  numeroua  instuucen,  observeil  extend- 
ing in  all  their  freshuesB  to  the  very  wa- 
ter's edge. 

''Proceeding  to  the  eastward  of  the 
Amphitheatre,  we  find  tlie  cliUa  scooped 
out  into  caverns  and  grotesquf  openings, 
of  tiie  most  striking  and  beautiful  variety 
of  forma.  In  sorao  places  huge  blocks  of 
eandstone  have  become  dislodged  and  ac- 
cumulated at  the  Imse  of  the  cUfT,  where 
tliey  are  ground  up  and  the  fragments 
borne  away  by  tho  ceaseless  action  of  the 
Burge. 

"  To  a  striking  group  of  detached  blocks 
the  name  of  'Sail  Rock'  has  been  given, 
from  its  striking  resemblance  to  tho  jib 
and  mainsail  of  a  sloop  when  spread — so 
much  so  that  wlien  viewed  from  a  dis- 
tance, with  a  full  glare  of  light  upon  it, 
while  tlie  cliff  in  the  rear  is  left  in  the 
shade,  the  illusion  is  perfect.  Tlio  heiglit 
of  the  block  is  about  forty  feet. 

"  Masses  of  rock  are  frequently  dis- 
lodged from  the  clifl",  'f  we  may  judge 
from  the  freshness  of  the  fracture  and 
the  appearance  of  the  trees  involved  in 
the  descent.  The  rapidity  with  which 
this  undermining  process  is  carried  on, 
at  many  points,  will  be  readily  apprecia- 
ted when  we  consider  that  the  cliffs  do 
not  form  a  single  unbroken  line  of  wall ; 
but,  on  the  contrary,  they  present  numer- 
ous salient  angles  to  the  full  force  of  tho 
waves.  A  projecting  corner  is  undermin- 
ed until  the  superincumbent  weight  be- 
comes too  great,  the  overhanging  mass 
cracks,  and,  aided  perhaps  by  the  power 
of  frost,  gradually  becomes  loosened  - 
finally  topples  with  a  crash  into  the  ' 

"  The  same  general  arched  and 
line  of  cUffs  borders  the  coast  for  .  ne 
to  the  eastward  of  i  'til  Rock,  where  the 
most  imposing  feature  in  the  series  is 
reached.  This  is  the  Grand  Portal — Le 
Grand  Portail  of  the  voyageurs.  The  gen- 
eral disposition  of  the  arched  openings 
which  traverse   this  great  quadrilateral 


mass  may,  pcrhapa,  be  made  intelligible 
vvithout  the  aid  of  a  ground-plan.  Tho 
main  body  of  the  structure  consists  of  a 
vast  mass  of  a  rectilinear  shape,  project- 
ing  out  into  the  lake  about  six  hundred 
feet,  and  presenting  a  front  of  three  hun- 
dred or  four  hundred  feet,  and  rising  to 
a  height  of  about  two  hundred  fuot.  An 
entrance  has  been  excavated  from  one 
side  to  tho  other,  opening  out  into  large 
vaulted  passages  which  communicate  with 
the  great  dome,  some  three  hundred  feet 
from  the  front  of  the  cliff.  The  Grand 
Portal,  which  opena  out  on  the  lake,  is 
of  magnificent  dimensions,  being  about 
one  hundred  feet  in  height,  and  one  hun- 
dred  and  sixty-eight  feot  broad  at  the 
water-level.  The  distance  from  the  verge 
of  the  cliff  over  the  arch  to  tho  water  is 
one  hundred  and  thirty-three  feet,  leaving 
thirty-three  feet  for  the  thickness  of  tho 
rock  above  tho  arch  itself.  The  extreme 
height  of  the  chff  is  about  fifty  feet  more, 
making  in  all  one  hundred  and  eighty- 
three  feet. 

"It  ia  impossible,  by  any  arrangement 
of  words,  or  by  any  combination  of  col- 
ors, to  convey  an  adequate  idea  of  this 
wonderful  scene.  The  vast  dimensions 
of  the  cavern,  the  vaulted  passages,  the 
varied  effects  of  the  light,  as  it  streams 
through  the  great  arch  and  falls  on  the 
different  objects,  tho  deep  emerald  greeu 
of  the  water,  the  unvarying  swell  of  the 
iake,  keeping  up  a  succession  of  musical 
tchoes,  the  reverberations  of  one's  own 
'^  coming  back  with  startling  effect, 
se  must  be  seen,  and  heard,  and 
.;0  be  fully  appreciated. 
i3eyond  the  Grand  Portal  the  diffs 
gradually  diminish  in  height,  and  the  gen- 
eral trend  of  the  coast  is  more  to  the 
southeast ;  hence  the  rock,  being  less  ex- 
posed to  the  force  of  the  waves,  bears 
fewer  marks  of  their  destructive  action 
The  entrance  to  Chapel  River  is  at  the 
most  easterly  extremity  of  a  sandy 
beach  which  extends  for  a  quarter  of  a 


EXCURSION  AROUND  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


201 


liffs 

;en- 

the 

ex- 

Eiara 

lion 

J  the 

[ndy 

of  a 


mile,  and  affords  a  convenient  liinding- 
place,  wiiilo  tlie  drifl-terraoe,  elevated 
about  thirty  feet  above  the  lake-level,  be- 
ing aa  open  pine  plain,  atlbrda  excellent 
camping-ground,  and  is  the  most  central 
fand  convenient  spot  for  the  traveller  to 
pitch  his  tent,  while  he  examines  the  most 
interesting  localities  in  the  series  which 
occur  in  this  vicinity — to  wit,  tlio  Grand 
Portal  and  the  Chapel.   {See  Engraving.) 

"The  Oiapel — La  ChapelU  of  the  voija- 
gcurs — if  not  the  grandest,  is  among  the 
most  grotesque  of  Nature's  architecture 
hero  displayed.  Unlike  the  excavations 
before  described,  which  occur  at  tlio  wa- 
ter's edge,  this  has  been  made  in  the  rock, 
at  a  height  of  thirty  or  forty  feet  above 
the  lake.  Tlie  interior  consists  of  a  vault- 
ed apartment,  which  has  not  inaptly  re- 
ceived the  name  it  bears.  An  arched 
roof  of  sandstone,  from  ten  to  twenty  feet 
in  tiiickness,  rests  on  four  gigantic  col- 
umns of  rock,  so  as  to  leave  a  vaulted 
apartment  of  irregular  shape,  about  forty 
feet  in  diameter,  and  about  the  same  in 
height.  TliP  columns  consist  of  finely 
stratified  rock,  and  have  been  worn  into 
curious  shapes.  At  the  base  of  one  of 
them  an  arched  cavity  or  niche  has  been 
cut,  to  which  access  is  had  by  a  flight  of 
steps  formed  by  the  projecting  strata. 
Tlae  disposition  of  the  whole  is  such  as 
to  resemble  very  much  the  pulpit  of  a 
cliurch ;  since  there  is  overhead  an  arch- 
ed canopy,  and  in  front  an  opening  out 
toward  the  vaulted  interior  of  the  cliapel, 
with  a  flat  tabular  mass  in  front,  rising 
to  4*  convenient  height  for  a  desk,  wliile 
on  the  riglit  is  an  isolated  block,  which 
not -inaptly  represents  an  altar;  so  that 
if  the  whole  had  been  adapted  expressly 
for  a  place  of  worship,  and  fashioned  by 
tlie  hand  of  man,  it  could  hardly  have 
been  arranged  more  appropriately.    It  is 


hardly  possible  to  describe  the  singular 
and  unique  effect  of  this  extraoriiinary 
structure ;  it  is  truly  a  temple  of  nature — 
'  a  house  not  made  with  hands.' 

"  On  the  west  side,  and  in  close  prox- 
imity, Chapel  River  enters  the  lake,  pre- 
cipitating itself  over  a  rocky  ledge  ten  or 
fifteen  feet  in  height."* 

"  It  is  surprising  to  see  how  little  tho 
action  of  the  stream  has  worn  away  tho 
rocks  which  form  its  bed.  There  appears 
to  have  been  hardly  any  recession  of  tho 
cascade,  and  the  rocky  bed  has  been  ex- 
cavated only  a  foot  or  two  since  the  stream 
assumed  its  present  direction. 

"  It  seems  therefore  impossible  that  tho 
river  could  have  had  any  influence  in  ex- 
cavating the  Chapel  itself,  but  its  exca- 
vation must  be  referred  to  a  period  when 
the  waters  of  the  lake  stood  at  a  higher 
level. 

"  Near  the  Grand  Portal  the  cliffs  aro 
covered,  in  places,  with  an  etllorcscence 
of  sulphate  cf  lime,  in  delicate  crystalU- 
zations ;  this  substance  not  only  iucrusts 
the  walls,  but  is  found  deposited  on  the 
moss  which  lines  tlu  m,  forming  singular 
and  interesting  Fpecimens  which  how- 
ever cannut  bo  transported  without  losing 
their  beauty-. 

"At  the  same  place  we  found  numer- 
ous traces  of  organic  life  in  the  form  of 
obscure  fucoidal  markings,  which  seem  to 
be  the  impressions  of  plants,  similar  to 
those  described  by  Prof.  Hall  as  occurring 
in  tho  Potsdam  sandstone  of  New  York. 
These  were  first  noticed  at  this  place  by 
Dr.  Locke,  in  1847." 

*  "  At  this  fall,  according  to  immemorial  usape 
among  the  vouageurs  in  ascending  the  lake,  the 
mangeurs  dt  lard,  who  make  tht-ir  first  trip,  re- 
ceive baptism  ;  which  consists  in  giving  tlieni  a 
severe  ducking — a  ceremony  ■umowtaat  siitiilar 
to  that  practised  on  greeu-hurns  when  crobaing 
t^o  line. 


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202 


TRtP  THROUGH  THE  LAKES. 


Lake    ^iuperior   Rc;^ioii. 

The  following  verses  were  written  by 
J.  G.  WiiiTTiER,  ou  recLJving  au  cayle's 
quiU,  when  on  a  visit  to  Lake  Superior  in 
1846. 

THE  SEER. 

I  hear  tho  fui'-otr  voja^'i-r's  horn, 

I  see  tlu   YiinktH-'s  tniil — 
His  foot  oil  every  iiioiintaiii  pass, 

On  evc'i-y  stream  his  sail. 

lie's  wlil.^tlinp  rounil  8t.  Mary's  Falls, 

Uiion  hts  loaded  train  ; 
lli'"8  leaving;  on  tlio  IMetured  Eocks 

His  fresh  tobacco  stain. 

I  see  tho  intittock  in  tho  mine, 

The  axe-stroku  in  the  dell, 
The  clamor  from  the  Indian  lodge, 

The  Jesuit's  chapel  belli 

1  see  the  swarthy  trappers  come 

Froir.  Mi.^sissjpid's  Sprinjrs; 
And  war-chiefs  w'ith  their  iwiuted  brows. 

And  crests  of  eaj^le  wings. 

Behind  the  scared  squaw's  birch  canoe, 
The  steamer  smokes  and  raves; 

And  city  lots  are  !»taked  for  sale 
Above  old  Indian  graves. 

By  forest,  lake  and  water-fall, 

I  see  tlie  peddler's  show; 
Tho  mighty  minurlin:;  with  the  mean, 

The  lofty  with  the  low. 

1  hear  tho  tread  of  pioneers 

Of  iiations  yet  to  be  ; 
The  first  low  wash  of  waves  where  soon 

Shall  roU'a  hm  lan  sea. 

The  riKlimenta  of  empire  here 

Are  plastic  yet  and  warm; 
The  cliiios  of  a  mighty  world 

Is  roumling  into  form  1 

Each  rude  and  jostling  frairment  soon 

Its  fitting  pliiee  shall  flnil— 
The  raw  materials  of  a  state, 

Its  muscle  and  its  mind  I 

And,  westering  still,  the  star  which  leads 

The  new  world  in  its  train, 
Has  tipped  with  ftre  the  icy  spears 

Of  many  a  mountain  chain. 

Grand  Island,  125  miles  distant  from 
the  Saut,  is  about  10  miles  long  and  5 
wide,  lying  close  in  to  tho  south  shore. 


This  is  a  wild  and  romantic  island ;  the 
cliffs  of  sandstone,  irregular  and  broken 
into  by  the  waves,  form  picturesque  eav- 
erns,  pilliirs,  and  arches  of  immense  di- 
mensions. There  are  several  romaniic 
bays  and  inlets  protected  from  storms, 
which  are  frequent  on  this  great  b!:e, 
where  the  brook  trout  of  a  large  size  can 
be  caught  in  qunntities.  The  tbrests  also 
afford  a  do'  rhtful  retreat,  while  all  nature 
geemM  h  .led — save  by  tho  moaning 
winds'  and  billowy  surges  of  the  surround- 
in?  waters. 

A  few  families  reside  on  the  south 
shore,  fiieing  the  mainland,  where  is  a 
clearing  of  considerable  extent.  Tho 
main-shore  in  full  sight,  and  the  Pictured 
Rocks,  visible  from  its  eastern  shoio,  alto- 
gether add  a  charm  to  this  truly  Grand 
Island,  unsurpassed  by  no  other  spot  in 
this  interesting  region. 

MuNisiNO,  formerly  called  Grand  Island 
City,  lies  on  tho  south  side  of  Grand  Island 
Bay,  here  aliout  3  miles  in  width.  Here  is 
a  steamboat  wharf  and  hotel,  together  with 
a  few  dwellings,  being,  no  doubt,  destined 
to  become  a  favorite  place  of  resort,  as 
from  this  place  the  Pictured  Rocks  can  be 
easily  reached  by  canoes  or  small  boats 
during  cahn  weather.  Trout  iishing  is 
also  good  in  Ann's  River,  which  enters 
Grand  Is'and  Raj',  and  in  Miner's  River, 
near  tlie  I'icturod  Rocks. 

The  bay  or  harbor  is  capacious,  deep, 
and  ejvsy  of  access  from  the  east  or  west, 
being  (J  miles  in  length  by  from  2  to  4 
in  width,  with  a  depth  of  water  of  100 
feet  and  upwards.  It  is  perfectly  lasid* 
locked  by  hills  rising  from  100  to  300  feet 
high,  and  capacious  enough  to  contain  the 
entire  fleet  of  the  lakes. 

The  Schoolcraft  Iron  Works,  near  Mu- 
iiisiug,  have  recently  been  erected  close  to 
tlie  water's  edge,  for  tho  manufacture  of 
pig  iron,  where  is  a  landing  tor  toanvrs. 

Miner's  Point,  a  most  remarkable  head- 
land, lies  G  miles  east  of  Munising,  at  tho 
mouth  of  a  small  stream  of  tlie  same  name. 


REMARKABLE    PHENOMENA    ON    LAKE    SUPERIOR. 


203 


The  action  of  tlie  waters  has  here  dis- 
Intot^rated  portions  of  the  sand-ste"^ 
formation,  formi'ng  romantic  caverns  and 
grotjoes  where  the  waters  of  the  latce 
penetrate,  mailing  strange  music  in  the 
oubterranean  passages. 


Monument  Rock,  about  one  milo  west 
of  Miner's  Por> .  '*,  another  strunge  freait 
of  nature,  bemg  ao  upright  cohimn  stand- 
ing iu  full  view,  near  the  water's  edge, 
elevated  some  80  or  100  feet  above  the 
lake.  {.See  Ewjrariu'j.)  All  tlioso  poLuta 
can  easily  bo  reached  from  Munisiiig,  or 
Grand  Island,  by  a  sail  or  row  boat. 


.11 


KONUMBNT  ROCK. 


Remarkable  Plioiioiii(;iia  on 
Lake  ^iiipei'ior. 

The  sudden  and  singular  changes  of  the 
weatiier  on  Lake  Superior,  in  connection 
with  its  healthy  intluence,  during  the  .sum- 
mer and  fall  months,  present  one  of  the 
phenomena  (  aature  which  seems  almost 
unaccountable.  The  sun  frequently  rises 
clear  and  cl()udle.s.s,  giving  indications  of 
continued  sunshine,  when  suddenly  the 
.sky  becomes  overcast  witii  wiiite,  lleecy 
clouds,  scudding  low  and  giving  out  a 
chilly  atmosphere,  not  unlrequently  ac- 
companied witli  rain, — the  clouds  as  sud- 
denly disiipjiear,  and  a  pleasant  afternoon 
usually  follow.s,  with  ligiit  winds.  This 
intluence,  causing  a  tluctuation  of  several 
degrees  of  the  thermometer,  seems  to 
have  an  injurious  ell'ect  on  mo8t  kinds 
of  fruit  and  vegetables  requiring  a  warm 
sun  throughout  tiie  day  in  order  to  arrive 
at  maturity;  the  country  a  few  miles  in- 
land, however,  being  less  sulject  to  those 
frequent  changes. 

On  tho  0th  of  August,  18G0,  there  oc- 
curred a  remarkable  phenomenon,  as  wit- 
nessed on  (irand  Island  Bay,  near  the 
Pictured  Hocks  -Lake  Superior  being  her© 
about  170  miles  wide.  During  the  fore- 
noon of  a  pleasant  summer's  day,  the  wa- 
ter was  observed  suddenly  to  fall  some 
three  or  four  feet  perpendicularly  on  the 
south  shore,  then  rise  in  about  half  an 
hour,  as  suddenly  again  to  recede  and 
rise  several  times;  exposing  tho  bod  of 
the  lake  for  a  considerable  distance  where 


-\-w 


204 


TRIP  THROUGH  THE  LAKES. 


Ml 


i  * 


the  water  was  shallow,  aflfording  a  fine  op- 
portunity to  collect  pebf'lea  of  diflferent 
hues,  and  precious  stoniK. 

At  noon  the  wind  blew  moderately  from 
the  southward,  while  the  thermometer 
ranged  at  about  74°  Fahr.  This  uppa- 
rently  calm  and  pleasant  weather  was  ta- 
ken advantage  of  by  a  party  of  pleasure  to 
cross  the  bay  in  a  sail-boat  from  Munising 
to  Grand  Island,  3  miles  distant,  aflfording  a 
delightful  excursion.  On  looking  eastwa- 
at  about  4  o'clock,  p.  m.,  a  dense  fog  Oi 
low  cloud  was  seen  rapidly  to  enter  the 
east  channel  of  the  bay,  from  tlie  north- 
ward, rolling  on  in  majestic  grandeur,  and 
presenting  apparently  the  smoko  caused 
by  the  discharge  of  a  park  of  artillery,  ob- 
scuring every  object  in  the  far  distance, 
while  the  headlands  withir  one  or  two 
miles  were  distinctly  visible.  As  it  ap- 
proached, the  thermometer  fell  several 
degrees,  and  rain  followed,  attended  with 
lightning  and  thimder.  Soon,  however, 
the  wind  lulled,  or  entirely  ceased,  while 
the  rain  poured  down  in  torrents.  The 
mist  or  fog  seemed  mostly  to  ascend  as  it 
passed  over  the  high  lands  on  the  main 
land,  and  assumed  the  appearance  of 
clouds,  while  portions  remained,  in  low 
and  wet  locahties,  above  the  forest-trees, 
— presenting  altogether  a  most  magnifi- 
cent appearance.  The  rain-storm  and 
cloud  oliect,  after  continuing  some  two 
hours,  as  suddenly  ceased,  followed  by  a 
splendid  rainbow, — being  the  harbinger 
of  a  pleasant  evening  and  calm  weather 
for  a  time. 

Mackenzie,  who  wrote  in  1789,  relates 
a  very  similar  phenomenon,  which  oc- 
curred at  Grand  Portage,  on  Lake  Supe- 
rior, and  for  which  no  obvious  cause  could 
be  assigned.  Ho  says:  "The  water  with- 
dj»w,  leaving  the  ground  dry  which  had 
never  before  been  visible,  the  fall  being 
equal  to  four  perpendicular  feet,  and  rush- 
ing back  with  great  velocity  above  the 
common  mark.  It  continued  thus  rising 
and  falling  for  several  hours,  gradually 


decreasing  until  it  stopped  at  its  usual 
height." 

'2o  the  mariner  these  sudden  storms 
and  fluctuations,  accompanied  by  fog,  are 
attended  with  much  danger,  more  partic- 
ularly if  near  the  land,  when  the  sun  and 
all  objects  in  sight  suddenly  disappear  as 
if  in  darkest  night,  tho  terrific  noise  of 
the  waves  and  wind  alone  being  heard. 
When  followed  by  snow  tiie  danger  is 
still  more  increased,  frequently  causing 
tho  most  disastrous  shipwrecks.  In  this 
high  latitude  a  perfect  calm  seldom  contin- 
ues but  for  a  short  time ;  the  wind  will  oc- 
casionally lull,  wlien  fitful  gusts  disturb 
the  waters,  to  be  followed  by  a  breeze 
or  storm  from  some  quarter  of  the  compasfl. 

On  examining  the  meteorological  record 
kept  at  Fort  Mackinac,  about  100  miles 
distant  in  a  southeast  direction  from  Grand 
Island,  it  was  found  that  the  thermome- 
ter ranged  at  78"  Fahrenheit  at  2  p.  M. 
on  the  abovo  day ;  the  wind  being  from 
the  south.  A.  7  p.  M.  a  heavy  rain  and 
thunder  storm  commenced,  which  lasted 
two  hours,  the  same  as  on  lake  Superior, 
terminating  with  a  gorgeous  sunset  view, 
exceeded  only  by  the  magnificent  aurora, 
whicli  frequently  illuminates  the  northern 
heavens  in  thia^liigh  latitude,  or  the  beau- 
tiful mirage  of  mid-day,  whicli  reflects 
with  remarkable  distinctness  the  invisible 
landscape,  and  vessels  floating  on  the  bo- 
som of  this  vast  inland  sea. 

How  far  the  receding  of  the  waters 
had  to  do  with  the  above  coming  storm, 
must  be  left  to  conjecture  or  further  in- 
vestigation— no  doubt,  however,  it  caused 
a  displacement  of  water  at  sonit  remote 
parts  of  the  lake,  which  was  almost  im- 
mediately felt  at  other  and  far  distant 
points.  So  with  the  vapory  clouds  which 
suddenly  rise  over  I-aiie  Superior;  they, 
no  doubt,  being  caused  by  cold  currents 
of  air  from  the  higher  regions  or  north- 
west, passing  over  warmer  portions  along 
the  south  sliore,  when  immediately  a  mist 
or  fog  is  created,  which  ascends  in  the 


REMARKABLE    PHENOMENA    ON    LAKE    SUPERIOR. 


205 


?au- 


bo- 


fonn  of  clouds  into  the  upper  regions; 
not,  however,  at  first  very  far  above  the 
lake  level — thus  giving  out  the  cold  in- 
fluence above  referred  to  as  peculiar  to 
the  soutli  sliore  of  the  lake  when  the 
northwest  winds  prevail:  this  cold  in- 
fluence being  most  probably  wafted  far  to 
tlie  east  and  southward,  producing,  no 
doubt,  an  eflect  on  the  weather  along  the 
Atlantic  coast  several  hundred  miles  to 
the  southeast.  The  northwest  winds 
■which  mostly  prevail  in  the  States  of  New 
York  aud  Pennsylvania  have  a  modified 
cliaracter,  similar  to  the  winds  from  the 
same  quarter  passing  over  the  upper 
lakes  of  North  America — affording  a  cool 
and  bracing  influence  on  the  human 
system. 

Another  remarkable  feature  in  the  cli- 
mate of  Lake  Superior,  is  its  healthy  and 
invigorating  influence  on  residents  and 
invalids  sutTering  from  incipient  pulmo- 
nary aud  throat  complaints — the  sudden 
changes  of  hot  and  cold,  or  wet  weather, 
seem  to  brace  the  constitution,  without 
producing  any  otlier  injurious  effects  than 
rheumatism,  when  too  much  exposure  is 
endured. 

While  the  balmy  southern  clime  too 
often  disappoints  the  invalid,  this  north- 
ern climate,  its  influence  extending  west- 
ward toward  the  Rocky  Mountains,  seems 
to  give  strength  to  tlie  respiratory  and 
digestive  organs — thereby  often  efiFecting 
most  miraculoua  and   permanent  cures. 


without  the  aid  of  medicine,  other  than 
that  afforded  by  nature — pure  air  and 
water.  The  intense  colds  of  winter  are 
here  represented  as  being  far  more  endu- 
rable than  in  more  southern  latitudes, 
along  the  Atlantic  coast,  where  damp 
northeast  storms  prevail. 

In  Foster  and  Whitney'' s  Report  on  the 
Geolog  of  Lake  Superior,  the  phenome 
na  of  these  fluctuations  are  elabo-ately 
discussed;  and,  for  tlio  most  part,  they 
are  found  to  bo  the  premonition  of  an  ap- 
proaching gale.  They  remark,  that  the 
earth  may  be  regarded  as  surrounded  by 
two  oceans — one  aerial,  the  other  liquid. 
By  tho  laws  which  regulate  two  fluids 
thus  relatively  situated,  a  local  distur- 
bance In  the  one  would  produce  a  corre- 
sponding disturbance  in  the  other. 

Every  rise  or  fall  of  one-twentieth  of  an 
inch  in  the  mercurial  column,  would  be 
attended  with  an  elevation  or  depression 
in  the  surface  of  the  water  equal  to  one 
incli.  A  sudden  change  of  the  atmos- 
pheric pressure  over  a  large  body  of  wa- 
ter would  cause  a  porpendlculor  rise  or 
fall,  in  the  manner  of  waves,  greater  than 
the  mere  weight  itself,  which  would  prop- 
agate themselves  in  a  series  of  undula- 
tions from  the  centre  of  disturbance. 
Those  undulations  result  from  an  unusual 
disturbance  of  the  atmosphere  occurring 
around  the  margin  of  the  storm,  and  its 
effects  are  perceived  before  the  storm  ao 
tuallv  breaks. 


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206 


TRIP  THROUGH  THE  LAKES. 


liake  Superior  Region.— 

Phenomena  of  the  Seasons,  By  J. 
W.  FosTEK,  LL.D.  "  Tliat  portion  of 
the  lake  region  occupied  by  tlie  great 
coniferous  forest,  has  but  two  seasons — 
Suniiuer  and  Winter.  About  the  mid- 
dle of  September,  heavy  gales  sweep 
over  the  lake,  and  lioar-frosta  fall,  nip- 
I)ing  the  leaves  of  the  deciduous  trees, 
of  which  the  maple  is  conspicuous, 
and  dyeinj.;  them  with  many  colored 
tints.  This  equinoctial  term  is  fol- 
lowed by  a  delightful  Indian  Summer 
of  several  day's  duration.  By  the 
middle  of  October,  the  snow  begins  to 
fall,  and  to  this  succeeds  an  interval 
of  calm,  lasting  tAvo  or  three  weeks, 
when  winter  sets  in  in  earnest.  The 
interior  lakes  are  closed  with  a  cover- 
ing of  ice,  and  the  land  and  water  are 
wrapped  in  a  mantle  of  sncw,  so  that 
the  ground  becomes  frozen  (o  no  great 
depth.  The  dense  forests  prevents  the 
drifting  of  the  snows,  and  the  warmth 
of  the  soil  is  retained  until  the  open- 
ing of  Spring.  The  thermometer  ac- 
casionally  drops  to  30°,  followed  by  a 
dry,  cold,  and  elastic  north-west  wind, 
which  seems  to  rob  the  temperature 
of  its  intensity,  so  far  as  relates  to  its 
effects  upon  the  human  system.  The 
trapper,  amid  these  intense  colds,  and 
shod  with  snow  shoes,  pursues  his  ac- 
customed round;  camping  at  night  with 
his  feet  towards  the  log-built  lire,  with 
no  covering  than  a  Mackinac  blanket. 
"  During  the  long  winter  nights  the 
northern  sky  is  frequently  illumined 
with  brilliant  streaks  of  variously- 
colored  light,  which  reach  to  the  zenith, 
and  then  dissolve  in  luminous  waves. 
So  intense  are  they,  at  times,  as  to  com- 
municate a  crimson  tint  to  the  snow, 
and  clothe  every  object  with  an  un- 
natural hue.    The  Northern  Lights  in- 


crease in  number  and  intensity  in  Sep- 
tember and  March,  as  though  there 
was  an  intimate  connection  between 
these  phenomena  and  the  changes  of 
the  ecjuinoxes. 

"Towards  the  end  of  April  the 
streams  become  released  from  their 
icy  fetters.  When  the  weather  liaa 
become  so  far  nioUilied,  as  it  ordinarily 
does  by  the  middle  of  March,  to  thaw 
s>l  mid-day  and  freeze  at  night,  the  sap 
of  the  maple  begins  to  How,  and  then 
commences  tlie  sugar  harvest.  This 
tree,  as  far  north  as  the  shores  of  Lake 
Superior,  clothes  most  of  the  ridgea 
and  high  grounds,  and  the  bird's-eye 
and  curled  varieties  are  the  most  abun- 
dant. By  the  beginning  of  May,  when 
the  sun's  rays  have  acquired  sufficient 
power  to  dissolve  the  snows,  the  trees 
start  from  their  winter's  sleep,  and 
commence  the  process  of  foliation,  with 
an  activity  unknown  in  lower  lati- 
tudes ;  the  air  becomes  vocal  with  the 
hum  of  insects ;  the  birds  resiuue  their 
accustomed  haunts;  and  all  nature 
seems  roused  from  a  lethargic  sleep. 

"In  June,  the  thermometer  often 
rises  to  90°  in  the  shade,  and  the  sun's 
rays  have  a  scalding  efl'ect,  but  the 
pressure  of  so  large  a  body  of  water 
as  is  contained  in  the  Great  Lakes, 
modifies  the  range  of  the  temperature, 
lessening  the  Winter's  cold  and  the 
Summer's  heat.*  In  freezing,  the 
water  evolves  a  large  amount  of  heat, 
and  during  the  Summer  the  winds  are 
tempered  in  passing  over  its  surface, 
often  giving  out  a  chilling  influence. 
When  the  unclouded  sun  sinks  behind 
the  western  horizon,  leaving  a  long 
twilight,  a  cool  breeze  commences 
blowing  toward  the  heated  surface  of 
the  land ;  so  that,  however  hot  it  may 
have  been,  the  night  is  rarely  sultry." 


♦  A  singular  phononieiia  occurs  at  Copper  Unrbor,  on  Keweenaw  Point;  here,  the  mean  annual 
temperature  uf  4(P  FuUr.  and  Summer  tempe><».uru  of  60°  come  together. 


NORTH   SHORE  OF  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


207 


;of 


nual 


Worth  Sborc  of  L.ake  Sii- 

?ierior. — Extract  from  the  Chiaujo 
Vibune  of  Atigust,  1870.  "If  you 
ever  go  to  Lake  Superior,  and  have 
tlie  opiiortunity,  don't  fail  to  visit 
the  North  Shore  and  Inle  Royale. 
On  Monday,  the  2oth,  we  left  Duluth, 
and  at  iive  o'clock  the  next  morning 
we  were  in  sight  of  Bayfidd,  quietly 
sleeping  on  its  hill-side,  its  neat,  trim 
houses  and  old  churches  snugly  nestled 
among  the  pines,  cow-hells  tinkling 
among  the  trees,  crows  lazily  sailing 
through  the  air,  over  the  woods  full  of 
birds,  whose  songs  come  floating  over 
the  water  like  a  morning  henison.  It 
is  a  lovely  place,  and  as  quiet  as  a 
dream,  and  soon  thereafter  we  were 
steaming  among  the  Apostle  Islands, 
which,  for  an  hour,  appeared  and  dis- 
appeared, each  more  beautiful  than 
the  other,  sometimes  but  one  in  sight, 
and,  as  we  round  it,  a  whole  cluster 
coming  into  view,  each  overlapping 
the  other  with  its  curving  outlines,  the 
sun  gilding  the  tree  tops,  a  little  boat 
here  and  there  dancing  on  the  waves, 
beauty  everywhere.  By  seven  o'clock 
the  outermost  Apostle  had  disappeared, 
and  at  half-past  one  we  were  passing 
Isle  lioyale,  sleeping  in  the  blue  dis- 
tance. We  are  out  of  the  world,  be- 
J^ond  the  pickets  of  civilization,  and 
leading  for  the  great  wilderness,  which 
stretches  towards  the  pole,  without  a 
single  habitation.  The  North  Shore 
is  in  view,  an  unending  range  of  hills 
and  mountains,  indented  here  and 
there  with  beetling  crags  and  frowning 
precipices  on  their  summits,  with  solid 
walls  of  porphyry  and  red  granite  at 
their  bases,  worn  by  the  water  into 
caves  and  all  manner  of  fanciful  shapes, 
and  the  whole  bathed  in  that  deep, 
dreamy  glamor  of  purple  which  artists 
love  so  much,  giving  you  no  detail, 


but  the  most  suggested  outlines.  Here 
aro  caverns  which  might  shelter  the 
Titans,  gorges  which  seem  fathomlces. 
Sometimes  a  bold  headlan<l  jtrojt,'ctcd 
out  into  space,  with  maguilicent  relief, 
and  sometimes  a  solid  wall  of  granite 
plunging  down  into  the  Lake  from  a 
mountain  spur.  The  beauty  of  tliis 
North  Shore  is  the  beauty  of  sublimi.y. 
Nature  here  is  not  in  her  pretty  moods, 
toying  with  water,  playing  with  flow- 
ers, or  decorating  herself  in  any  bri- 
dal attire  of  gossamers,  blossoms  and 
shells.  She  is  in  her  stern  moods. 
She  has  piled  up  Ossa  on  I'elion.  She 
frowns  at  you  from  stupendous  crags. 
Her  music  is  'hf  thunder.  Her  attire 
is  the  souibre  green  of  the  pine.  Her 
pln^'  is  the  everlasting  wiush  of  the 
wa>'.rt  against  solid  granite  walls. 

"Aljout  nightfall,  we  had  reached 
Pigeon  river,  the  boundary  line  be- 
tween the  United  States  and  Canada, 
and  came  to  anchor  in  its  still  waters, 
shut  in  l)y  frowning  mountains  of  rock 
towering  above  us  on  either  hand. 
There  was  time  for  us  to  land  in  small 
boats  before  dark,  and  walk  up  to  the 
Pigeon  liiver  Falls,  a  sight  which 
amply  rej)aid  us  for  our  scramble  up 
hill  and  down  dale.  Minnehaha  nuist 
yield  the  palm  of  beauty — or,  at  least, 
of  grandeur — to  these.  They  make  a 
descent  of  about  one  hundred  and  iifty 
feet,  in  two  distinct  streams,  over  a 
table  of  trap,  with  projecting  S])ur8, 
which  break  up  and  divide  the  fall  in 
the  wildest  manner.  Standing  upon 
the  rocks  which  overhang  the  fall,  you 
look  down  through  a  rocky  gorge,  its 
crevices  bursting  into  beauty  with 
vines  and  flowers,  glistening  in  the 
spray,  to  a  bend  in  the  river,  which 
is  spanned  from  side  to  side  with  a 
clear,  wcU-detined  rainbow.  The  river 
b  not  very  wide  at  Uiis  point,  scarcely 


208 


TRIP  THROUGH  THE  LAKES. 


ill 


h 


wider  than  the  brook  which  feeds 
Mitinehaha:  but  its  sudden  and  head- 
long phinge,  the  immensity  of  its 
rocky  surroundings,  and  their  fantastic 
shapes  and  forms,  especially  of  one 
huge,  towering  rock,  which  stands  upon 
the  very  edge  of  the  fall  and  divides 
the  water  before  it  goes  over,  the  beauty 
of  the  mosses,  and  ferns,  and  vines, 
and  the  utter  solitude  of  nature  around 
it,  give  to  it  not  only  beauty  but  an 
element  of  solemnity  and  sublimity 
Minnehaha  does  not  possess. 

"  The  next  morning  at  daybreak  we 
were  ofl"  for  Thunder  Bay,  rightly 
enough  named  withal,  skirting  among 
towering  islands  of  rock  rising  hun- 
dreds of  feet  out  of  the  Lake.  It  was 
fair  when  we  started,  but  we  had 
hardly  been  under  way  half  an  hour 
when,  as  if  by  magic,  the  heavens 
clouded  over.  We  were  near  the  en- 
trance to  the  bay  which  runs  between 
two  headlands  of  solid  rock,  Pie  Island, 
rising  850  feet,  and  Thunder  Cape, 
1,300  feet,  massive,  threatening  walls 
of  granite,  standing  there  in  an  awful 
silence,  with  nothing  around  them  but 
smaller  islands  of  naked  rock,  except 
in  one  instance,  where  a  perfect  little 
gem  of  an  island,  hardly  fifty  feet 
sc^uare,  rose  from  the  water,  covered 
with  grass  and  shrubs,  with  a  solitary 
pine  in  the  centre,  which,  like  Heine's, 
seemed  to  be  dreaming  of  the  palm, 
which  '  lonelv  and  silent  sorrows  'mid 
burning  rocics  and  sands.'  In  the 
midst  of  this  sublime  scene,  these  ter- 
rible rock-shapes  aroimd  us — which 
looked  like  rocky  monsters  just  risen 
from  the  submarine  caverns — this  terri- 
ble solitude  and  silence,  which  seemed 
like  the  solitude  of  another  world,  the 
clouds  closed  blackly  around  the 
steamer  as  if  they  would  crush  it. 
It  seemed  as  if  you  could  raise  your 


hand  and  touch  their  dark,  fleecy 
whirls.  The  storm  burst  forth  in 
awful  fury.  For  a  half  hour  the  air 
was  apparently  all  ablaze,  not  with 
flashes,  but  absolute  sheets  of  light- 
ning, which  lit  up  the  rocks  and  clifla 
with  a  supurb  rose  color,  while  the 
thunder  crashed  from  crag  to  crag 
like  the  roar  of  a  thousand  batteries. 
Nearer  and  nearer  we  came  to  the 
frowning  monsters  guarding  the  en- 
trance to  the  bay,  showing  their  lofty 
walls  in  the  glare  of  the  lightning. 
The  Captain  stood,  anxiously,  on  the 
forward  deck,  with  a  silent  group 
around  him,  peering  ahead  through 
the  darkness.  The  sea  was  now  run- 
ning heavily,  and  the  brave  steamer 
plunged  wildly  about.  As  we  came 
abreast  of  the  entrance,  a  sheet  of 
lightning,  more  vivid  than  the  rest, 
lit  up  the  bay,  and  showed  a  dense 
bank  of  fog  inside.  To  enter  would 
be  folly ;  the  Captain  gave  the  signal 
to  the  pilot  to  about  ship,  and  in  a 
few  minutes  the  steamer  was  heading 
for  the  South  Shore,  pelted  with  rain, 
girt  about  with  lightning,  and  running 
at  full  speed  to  outstrip  the  fog,  which 
was  chasing  us  at  headlong  force  across 
the  mad  waves  of  Superior.  It  over- 
took us,  however,  like  magic,  and  shut 
us  in ;  we  flanked  it,  in  turn,  by  run- 
ning into  a  harbor  in  Isle  Royale, 
being  the  first  Steamer  which  ever 
entered  those  waters;  and,  before  night, 
we  were  in  sight  of  the  South  Shore 
again,  and  dancing  over  waves  which 
were  ruddy  with  sunlight.  The  In- 
dians have  a  legend,  that,  the  thunder 
was  a  huge  bird,  which  laid  its  eggs 
and  hatched  the  ligiitnings  about 
Thunder  Bay,  having  their  nests  on 
the  high  hills  or  surrounding  moun- 
tains." 


209 


run- 


Bver 


lore 

lich 

In- 

ider 

eggs 

wut 

on 

)un- 


Meteorologlcal   Table, 

Showing   the   Latitude,    Longitude,    Altitude,   Temperature,   etc.,  or  thb 
Principal  Cities  and  Ports  on  the  American  Side  of  tub 

GREAT  LAKES. 


Cities,  etc. 


Lake  Ontario. 

Sacket's  Harbor,  N.  T 

Oswego,  "     .... 

Charlotte,  ♦«     

Fort  Niagara,  "     .... 

Lake  Erie. 

Buflfalo,  N.  Y 

Clevelaud,  Ohio 

Toledo,  "  

Monroe  City,  Mich 

Detroit  (Detroit  R.),  Mich. . 

Lake  Huron. 

Port  Huron  (St.Clair  R),Mich 

Tawas  City,   Mich 

Fort  Mackinac,  " 

Green  Bay  (Green  B.),  Wis 

Lake  Michigan. 

Grand  Haven,  Mich 

Milwaukee,  Wis 

Chicago,  111 

Michigan  City,  Ind 

Lake  Superior. 

Saut  Ste.  Marie,  Mich.... 
Marquette,  "    .... 

Copper  Harbor,        *'   .... 
Ontonagon,  "    .... 

Bayfield,  Wis 

Superior  City,  Wia 


«s 

a 

Four  SoftBODii 

•a 

s 

►3 

en 

1 

g 

a 
en 

3 

0 
< 

c 

a 

Ft 

•FaJir. 

•Fahr. 

•Fahr. 

"Fahr. 

»F»hr. 

43°  55' 
43°  20' 
43°  12' 
43°  15' 

76°  00' 
76°  40' 
77°  51' 
79°  00' 

250 
260 
250 
250 

46.40 
46.44 

47.88 
46.60 

42.49 
43.70 
43.72 
41.38 

67.82 
67.00 
68.4G 
67.20 

60.58 
50.40 
50.77 
50.00 

24.80 
24.72 
28.56 
27.86 

42°  53' 
41°  30' 
41°  45' 
41°  43' 
42°  20' 

78°  50' 
81°  47' 
83°  36' 
83°  24' 
83°  00' 

600 
600 
565 
565 
680 

47.26 
49.70 
50.00 
49.23 
48.00 

43.60 
46.84 
47.00 
46.22 
45.04 

67.50 
69.86 
71.00 
71.00 
69.20 

50.14 
51.97 
52.00 
51.33 
49.81 

27.80 
30.00 
29.00 

28.62 
28.17 

42°  53' 
44°  15' 
45°  51' 
44°  30' 

82°  24' 

84°  33' 
88°  05' 

590 
590 
700 
600 

47.00 
44.33 
41.00 
44.50 

43.68 
37.22 
38.70 
43.52 

67.00 
65.15 
62.00 
68.50 

49.00 
47.06 
43.54 
46.00 

25.60 
24.61 
18.30 
20.00 

43°  06' 
43°  03' 

41°  52' 
41°  40' 

86°  10' 

87°  55' 
87°  35' 
86°  53' 

580 
600 
590 
590 

47.36 
46.00 
47.00 
49.00 

44.59 
42.89 
45.00 
46.00 

68.62 
67.08 
08.50 
70.00 

49.56 
48..34 
49.00 
60.00 

26.63 
25.00 
26.00 
28.00 

46°  30' 
46°  32' 
47°  30' 
46°  62' 
46°  45' 
46°  40' 

84'  43' 
87°  41' 
88°  00' 
89°  30' 
91°  00' 
92°  03' 

600 
630 
620 
600 
620 
600 

40.50 
41.50 
41.00 
40.00 
40.00 
41.00 

37.60 
38.30 
38.47 
37.00 
38.00 
3f)00 

62.00 
63.10 
60.80 
62.60 
62.00 
63.00 

43.54 
43.84 
42.96 
42.86 
43.00 
43.60 

20.00 
20.00 
21.78 
17.85 
16.60 
14.60 

I 


14 


!i 


II 


210 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  CONSUMPTION. 


"Consumption  originates  in  all  lati- 
tudes, from  the  Equator,  where  the 
mean  temperature  is  80°  Fahrenheit, 
with  slight  variations,  to  the  higher 
position  of  the  Temperate  Zone,  where 
the  mean  temperature  is  40°,  with  sud- 
den and  violent  changes.  The  opinion, 
long  entertained,  that  Consumption  is 
peculiar  to  cold  and  humid  climates,  is 
founded  in  error.  Far  from  this  being 
the  case,  the  tables  of  mortality  warrant 
the  conclusion,  that  Consumption  is 
sometimes  more  prevalent  in  tropical 
than  in  temperate  countrieo.  Con- 
sumption is  rare  in  the  Arctic  Regions, 
in  Siberia,  Iceland,  the  Orkneys,  and 
Hebrides,  also  in  the  north-western 
portions  of  the  United  States,  and  wes- 
tern portions  of  Canada. 

"In  North  America,  'the  disease  of 
the  respiratory  organs,  of  which  Con- 
Bumption  is  the  chief,  have  their  maxi- 
mum in  New  England,  in  latitude 
about  42°  where  north-east  winds  pre- 
vail, and  diminish  in  all  directions 
from  this  point  inland.  The  diminu- 
tion is  quite  as  rapid  westward  as  south- 


ward, and  a  large  district  near  the  for- 
tieth parallel  is  quite  uniform  at  twelve 
to  fifteen  per  cent,  of  deaths  from  Con- 
sumption, while  Mas,sachusetts  varies 
from  twenty  to  twenty-live.*  At  the 
border  of  the  dry  climate  of  the  plains, 
in  Minnesota,  a  mininmm  is  obtained 
as  low  an  that  occurring  in  Florida,  and 
not  exceeding  live  per  cent,  of  the  en- 
tire mortality.  It  is  still  lower  in 
Texas,  and  the  absolute  minimum  for 
the  continent  in  temperate  latitudes  is 
Southern  California.' " 

The  Upper  Peninsula  of  Michigan, 
embracing  the  whole  of  the  Lake 
Superior  region,  Minnesota,  Dakota, 
Montana,  and  Washington  Territory, 
are  all  alike  exempt,  in  a  remarkable 
degree,  from  the  above  fatal  disease. 
Invalids,  suffering  from  pulmonary 
complaints  and  throat  diseases,  are  al- 
most uniformly  benefitted  by  the  cli- 
mate of  the  above  northern  region ; 
having  a  mean  annual  temperature  of 
from  40°  to  50°  Fahrenheit,  with  mod- 
erately cold  winters  and  a  dry  atmos* 
phere. 


DEATHS  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES,  ACCORDING  TO  THE  CENSUS  OF  1860. 


STATES. 


Eastern  States... 
Middle  States.... 
Southern  States. 
Western  States.. 
Pacific  States.... 


Total,. 


CONSUMP- 
TION. 

RATIO. 

FETKRS. 

RATIO. 

10,792 
16,213 
11,201 
10,308 
614 

25.0 
18.4 
7.4 
13.0 
10.2 

2,596 

4,439 

19,431 

7,882 
550 

6.2 

5.0 

15.4 

10.6 

8.8 

49,118 

14.8 

35,898 

9.1 

TOTAL 
DEATHS. 

45,361 

94,612 

165,800 

82,643 

5,734 

394,150 


Making  23.9  per  cent,  of  deaths  caused  by  the  two  above  prevalent  diseases. 


«The  mortality  is  even  greater  in  New  Hampshire  and  Maine. 


211 


DULUTH  TO  ST.  PAUL, 
Via  Lake  Superior  and  Mississippi  Railroad. 


MILES.  STATIONS.  MlLCS. 

155  Diiliith 0 

154  Kice's  Point 1 

151  Oneota 3  4 

141  Foiidduliac 10  14 


{Dalles  of  the  St.  Louis.) 

133    Thouisoii 8  22 

132    IS'orthern  Pacific  R.  R.  J.  1  23 

110    Moose  Lake 22  45 

95    Kettle  River 15  60 

77    Hinckley, (Din.Sta.).18  78 

65    Pine  City 12  90       0 

Stages  run  from  Pine  City  to  Chengwatana,  4  miles 
Branch  to  Sunrise,  8  miles. 


MILES.  STATIONS.  MILES. 

54     Ru.'^hCity 11  101 

42    North  Branch.... 12  113 

30    Wyoming 12  125 

25    Forre-st  Lake 5  130 

17    Centreville 8  138 

12    White  Bear  Lake 5  143 


Stillwater  Branch.. ..12    155 
Minneapolis  Branch...13    156 

St.  Paul 12    155 

Stages  run  from  North 


.t  ■■ 


RAILROAD  ROUTE  PROM  DULUTH  TO  ST.  PAUL, 
Via  Lake  Superior  and  Mississippi  Railroad. 


On  leaving  Dulutii,  the  line  of  the 
Railroad  passes  Rice's  Point,  which 
eeporates  the  Bay  of  Superior  from 
St.  Louis  Bay ;  the  former  is  a  beauti- 
ftil  sheet  of  water,  about  one  mile  wide 
and  seven  in  length,  being  an  expanse 
of  St.  Ix)<iis  river.  St.  Louis  Bay  is  a 
smaller  body  of  water,  being  about  two 
miles  in  length  and  breadth. 

Oneota,  4  miles  from  Duluth,  is  a 
village  situated  on  the  west  bank  of 
St.  Louis  Bay,  where  is  a  good  harbor. 
Here  are  2  saw-mills,  a  church,  a 
hotel,  2  stores,  and  about  300  inhabi- 
tants. After  leaving  St.  Louis  Bay  the 
channel  of  the  river  is  winding — 
passing  along  low  banks  and  islands 
with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  reeds  and 
pond  lilies. 

Devil's  Bend,  11  miles,  is  seen  to 
the  best  advantage  from  the  deck  of 


the  Steamer ;  it  is  very  circuitous,  and  is 
surrounded  by  beautiful,  bold  scenery. 

Spirit  Island  and  Lake,  12  miles; 
here  is  presented  a  most  interesting 
and  romantic  view  of  land  and  water. 
The  isl.and  rises  about  fifty  feet  above 
the  surface  of  the  river,  and  is  clothed 
with  a  thick  growth  of  trees.  Accord- 
ing to  the  Indian  tradition,  here  died 
a  celebrated  chief  of  an  unknown  dis- 
ease, and  ever  since  it  has  been  avoided 
by  the  children  of  the  forest  as  haunted 
ground.  As  you  approach  Fond  du 
Lac  by  water  the  scenery  is  wild  and 
beautiful,  with  high  and  abrupt  hills 
in  sight,  which  seems  to  intercept  the 
river  in  its  course  to  Lake  Superior. 

Fond  du  Lac,  14  miles  by  Railroad 
and  20  miles  by  water,  is  an  old  and 
interesting  settlement,  mostly  inhabited 
by   half-breeds,   who,   until   recently, 


I 


1      i 


if! 

■II 


I  - 


i 
si 

i; 


212 


TRIP  THROUGH  THE  LAKES. 


were  almost  excluded  from  the  outside 
world.  Here  are  about  250  inhabi- 
tants, 30  dwelling  houses,  a  church,  2 
public  houses,  a  warehouse  and  steam- 
bout  landing. 

The  Dalles  op  St.  Louis,  imme- 
diately above  Fond  du  Lac,  are  the 
next  great  object  of  interest  in  con- 
nection with  the  tressle-work  and  rail- 
road bridge  which  here  spans  the  river. 
The  scenery  is  thus  glowingly  de- 
scribed by  a  recent  tourist,  and  copied 
from  the  Si,  Paul  Press: — 

Dalles  of  St.  Louis, 
July  26,  1870. 
Editors  St.  Paul  Press. 

"  It  is  a  matter  of  some  surprise 
how  little  is  known  of  the  topography 
and  general  characteristics  of  the  coun- 
try pierced  by  the  Lake  Superior  and 
Mississippi  Railroad.  Some  denomi- 
nate it  a  cold,  damp,  uninviting  pine 
forest,  and  others  a  barren,  almost 
God-forsaken  region.  Now,  while  we 
cannot  agree  wholly  with  either  class 
of  complainants,  we  allow  them  all 
due  consideration  for  their  opinions. 

"The  Dalles  of  St.  Louis  make  up  a 
scene  of  attractions  rarely  equalled  and 
never  excelled.  There  Nature  is  seen 
in  her  original,  pristine  wildness.  Great 
towering  forests  of  pine ;  grey,  rugged 
dykes  of  slate  rock  ;  roaring  cascades ; 
the  never  ceasing  lullaby  of  echoing 
hillside  or  far-reaching  ravine;  not 
one  sign  of  the  footstep  of  the  coming 
march  of  progress,  save  the  narrow, 
uninviting,  thread-like  line  of  the  Lake 
Superior  and  Mississippi  Kailroad. 
There  it  goes — through  hillside,  great 
rock  formations,  over  deep  ravines, 
across  roaring  streams — all,  all  be- 
speaking a  tribute  of  praise  to  the  en- 
lightened, indomitable  will  of  man, 
and  the  almost  perfection  of  engineer- 
ing skill. 


"  Let  us  quietly  start  from  the  bridge 
that  spans  the  St.  Louis  river  near  the 
head  of  the  Dalles,  and  while  walking 
slowly  along,  note  the  difficulties  en- 
countered, overcome,  and  made  sub- 
servient to  scientitic  skill. 

"Great  slate  dykes  rear  their  tesse- 
latcd  fronts  like  some  ancient  ruin, 
detiant  and  frowning.  Soon  the  regu- 
lar, almost  measured  reverberation  of 
"click,"  "click,"  as  the  iron  drill 
slowly  but  surely  enters  the  deep  bosom 
of  each  rock,  tells  the  war  has  com- 
menced. Soon  the  deep  ravine,  the 
forest,  the  hillside  give  back,  in  mea- 
sured tones,  the  echoing  voice  of  that 
element,  called  into  requisition  by 
human  skill  and  will.  The  tall  rocic 
is  shivered,  and  then  comes  the  great 
loud  blast.  Twelve  hundred  pounds 
of  powder  is  placed  deep  beneath  the 
mass  of  rock.  The  fuse  burns  slowly, 
but  surely.  At  last  the  rugged  mass 
pulsates,  heaves,  tosses,  and  away  go 
tons  of  ragged,  broken  fragments,  sepa- 
rated, never  to  be  reunited  again ;  a 
huge  material  tyi)e  of  far  too  many 
episodes  in  the  great  world's  history. 

"But  on  we  go.  Deep  cuts,  huge 
embankments  lend  enchantment  to  the 
view.  Stop  by  this  trickling  rill,  and 
as  the  rude  tin-cup  bears  the  pure 
water  to  our  parched  lips,  note  the 
peculiarities  of  the  deeply  cloven  bank, 
strata  upon  strata,  clay,  sand,  inter- 
seamed  alternately.  Up  some  ten  feet 
is  seen  a  soapy,  slimy  composite,  that 
looks  unstable,  in  fact  dangerous.  This 
singular,  deceitful  strata  has  cost  the 
Railroad  Company  hundreds  of  thou- 
sands of  dollars,  and  yet  is  not  wholly 
subdued.  In  the  cleft  hill-side  slides 
occur  in  the  embankment;  it  glides 
away  with  sin-like  defiance.  Go  along 
still  farther  and  the  ruins  of  great 
huge  stone  walls  betray  its  instability, 


in  I 


DALLES  OF  ST.  LOUIS. 


213 


as  the  deep  gtilch  tells  of  its  Rlinpery 
characteriBtics.  Engineering  skill  wan 
balUed,  capitalistH  grew  ruHtive,  and 
on,  on  went  the  untiring  ta«k  of  labor. 

"The  nine  miles  of  Railroad  that 
reaches  from  the  head  to  the/oo<of  the 
Dalles  of  St.  Louis  river  is  a  lasting 
monument  to  scientitic  progress  and 
untiring  human  toil.  Geiiorals  gain 
bloody  victories  and  are  iiuinortalized 
on  the  page  of  history.  Their  fame  is 
tarnished  by  the  tears,  wails,  and  suf- 
ferings of  unappreciated  thousands. 
But  here  nature  Imjws  to  human  inge- 
nuity, channels  for  commerce  are  being 
opened  ;  unthinking  crowds  glide  idly 
along;  and  yet  scarce  a  thought  or  a 
word  in  praise  of  those  'who  have 
brought  the  hills  low  and  made  the 
rough  places  even.'  Is  not  fame  an  idle 
breath  and  deserving  praise  a  myth? 

"  But  on  we  go,  till  wearied  nature 
•warns  us  that  rest  is  the  natural  pana- 
cea for  toil.  A  grassy  dell,  a  pure 
trickling  rill,  invites  repose.  Here 
seated,  we  may  survey  the  roaring  cas- 
cade, the  tumbling,  tossed,  frothy 
floods,  and  wonder  when  man,  endowed 
with  engineering  skill,  will  utilize  the 
sixty-eight  thousand  horse-power  op- 
posed by  the  Dalles  of  the  St.  Louis 
river  to  the  interests  of  manufacturing 
demands.  That  day,  in  our  humble 
opinion,  is  not  far  distant.  The  un- 
told wealth  of  eastern  capitalists  will 
soon  render  its  tribute,  and  what  to- 
day is  the  quiet  haunt  of  the  slowly 
sailing  fish-hav/k,  will  become  reso- 
nant with  the  music  of  the  shrill 
cleaving  saw,  or  the  music  of  untold 
thousands  of  busy  spindles.  This  is 
no  idle  phantasv,  nor  yet  the  dream 
of  poetic  enthusiasm. 

"The  men  who  have  wielded  the 
Lake  Superior  and  Minnesota  Rail- 
road   are    earnest,   determined    men. 


Foresight  suggested  the  first  enterprise 
as  only  a  stepping-stone  to  the  vesti- 
bule of  greater,  mightier  consumma- 
tions. The  Dalles  of  St.  Louis  river 
will  become  speedily  utilized,  and  new 
and  important  manufacturing  centres 
created.  Nature  has  here  lavished 
untold  facilities,  subservient  to  and 
awaiting  man's  behests. 

*' The  almost  endless  slate  quarries 
— enough  to  supply  the  world — will 
be  opened,  and  render  tribute  to  wide- 
awake capitalists. 

"  The  iron  ore  treasures  of  Lake  Su- 
perior can  be  landed  at  the  foot  of  the 
Dalles  from  steamers  or  barges. 

"  The  superior  quality  of  tlie  lumber 
to  be  there  nuinufactured,  the  facilities 
for  reaching  an  almost  boundless  mar- 
ket, ample  capital  and  cheaj)  produc- 
tion, will  soon  render  the  Dalles  of 
St.  Louis  the  greatest  himber  pro- 
ducing centre  of  the  entire  North-west. 
There  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  City  of 
Thomson  must  soon  become  an  im- 
portant point.  Railroad  shops  alone 
built  up  Altoona,  amid  the  Alleghany 
Mountains,  to  a  City  of  many  thou- 
sands of  inhabitants.  Then,  why  doubt 
the  future  of  Thomson,  with  railroad 
shops,  manufacturing  facilities,  slate 
quarries,  and  the  illimitable  pine  for- 
ests contiguous  thereto." 

At  the  Dalits  of  St.  Louis,  on  the 
line  of  the  railroad,  is  one  of  the 
largest  and  best  slate  formations  in 
America,  and  the  only  available  one 
in  the  United  States  west  of  Pennsyl- 
vania. It  is  twenty  miles  long,  six 
miles  wide,  and  hundreds  of  feet  deep. 

In  connection  with  the  slate  deposit 
at  this  point,  and  the  mines  and  forests 
of  Lake  Superior,  and  the  relation  of 
both  to  the  agricultural  and  commer- 
cial development  of  this  section  of  the 
North-west,  no  point  possesses  more 


I: 


'  li'M 


214 


TRIP  TIIROUOU  TUE  LAKES. 


interest  than  the  Dallea  of  St.  Louis. 
Thu  Bucceasion  of  cataracts,  within  a 
diHtance  of  eight  mileH,  packs  the  ac- 
ciuuulated  waters  of  the  niuueroua 
tributaries  of  the  St.  Louis,  from  the 
plateau  of  the  Upper  MissisHippi  to 
the  level  of  Lake  Superior  at  Fond 
du  Ijiic,  whence  the  river  is  navigable 
for  22  miles  to  its  termination  in  the 
bays  of  St.  Louis  and  Superior,  front- 
ing the  city  of  Duluth.  The  future 
utilization  of  the  extensive  water-power 
at  and  near  the  Dalles  of  the  St.  Louis 
river,  (ascertained  to  be  288,000  cubic 
feet  per  minute),  gives  assurance  of 
the  rapid  growth  of  maiuifactures  at 
this  point.  At  the  upper  end  of  the 
Dalles  the  Northern  Vacifie  linilroad 
forms  a  junction  with  the  Lake  Supe- 
rior and  MiHsissippi  liiiilroad,  thus  m- 
creasing  in  an  immense  degree  the 
importance  of  this  locality,  where  the 
commerce  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  is  des- 
tined, ere  long,  to  add  its  wealth  to  the 
already  local  advantages  of  this  highly 
favored  section,  embracing  both  the 
cities  of  Thomson  and  Duluth. 

Thomt^on,  23  miles  from  Duluth, 
on  the  line  of  the  Lake  Superior  and 
Mississippi  Railroad  near  its  junction 
with  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad, 
has  natural  advanUvges  of  the  most 
commanding  character, — being  situ- 
ated near  the  head  of  the  Dalles  of 
the  St.  Louis  river,  where  is  afforded 
the  most  reliable  water-power  in  the 
country.  Here  is  a  substantial  bridge 
crossing  the  river,  an  hotel,  store  and 
several  dwellings.  It  is,  no  doubt,  de- 
stined to  be  a  favorite  resort  for  plea- 
sure seekers  and  admirers  of  sublime 
river  scenery, — the  St.  Louis  having  a 
fall  of  about  four  hundred  feet  in  the 
distance  of  eight  miles, — jumping  from 
precipice  to  precipice  in  wild  gran- 
deur. 


The  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  has  its 
present  terminus  at  Thomson  Junction, 
24  miles  from  Duluth,  where  is  a  small 
settlement.  From  thence  it  runs  west- 
ward to  Brainerd,  115  miles  from  Du- 
luth; crosses  the  Mississippi  River 
and  extends  to  Moorhead,  254  miles, 
forming  in  part  a  line  of  travel  to  Fort 
Garry,  Manitoba;  thence  westward 
across  the  Red  River  of  the  north, 
through  Dakota,  to  Bismarck,  450 
miles,  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
Missouri  River,  here  connecting  with 
steamers  running  on  the  Upper  Mia- 
souri  for  several  hundred  miles. 

Moose  Lake  Station,  45  miles 
from  Duluth,  is  a  small  settlement; 
in  the  vicinity  are  several  small  lakes 
and  saw  mills. 

Kettle  River  Station,  15  miles 
further,  is  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 
above  stream,  wliich  here  affords  good 
water-power.  Here  is  a  hotel,  a  store, 
and  several  dwellings. 

Hinckley,  78  miles  from  Du- 
luth, and  77  from  St.  Paul,  is  a  new  town 
erected  since  the  commencement  of  the 
Railroad.  It  is  situated  on  Grindstone 
Creek,  a  small  stream,  the  outlet  of 
Grindstone  Lake.  The  Railroad  Com- 
pany have  erected  machine  shops  at 
this  place,  where  passengers  stop  for 
refreshments.  Here  is  a  good  hotel, 
a  saw  mill,  a  shingle  mill,  and  a  num- 
ber of  dwellings. 

Pine  City,  12  miles  further,  is  situ- 
ated on  Snake  river,  where  are  several 
saw  mills,  a  stave  factory,  a  hotel,  2 
stores,  a  nuWibpr  of  dwellings,  and 
about  300  , *?iliabitants.  Cfross  Lake, 
in  the  immediate  vicinity,  is  navigable 
for  large-size  boats,  as  well  as  Snake 


i 


n'YOMIWQ — WHITE  BEAR  LAKE  STATION. 


215 


river  which  enters  into  St.  Croix  river 
on  the  eiiiit. 

CiiKNUWATAN A,  4  milcH  east  of  Pine 
Citv,  is  the  capital  of  Pine  County. 
This  is  a  tliriving  i)lace  of  businesH, 
wliere  is  good  water-i)ower  on  Snake 
river ;  being  surrounded  by  a  tine  lum- 
bering region,  and  much  good  land. 

Rush  City,  54  miles  from  St.  Paul, 
is  a  small  settlement  situated  on  the 
outlet  of  Kush  Lake,  in  the  midst  of 
a  fertile  region.  Here  are  2  saw  mills, 
a  hotel,  a  store,  and  a  number  of 
dwellings. 

NoKTii  BuANCH^  12  miles  further, 
is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  good  farm- 
ing country.  The  village  of  Sunrise, 
8  miles  east  of  the  station,  is  a  flour- 
ishing place  of  business,  where  are 
located  several  mills  propelled  by 
water-i)ower.  Trout  fishing  is  excel- 
lent in  Sunrise  river  and  other  streams 
flowing  into  the  St.  Croix  river,  which 
here  divides  the  State  of  Minnesota 
from  Wisconsin. 

Wyoming,  30  miles  from  St.  Paul, 
is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  west 
banks  of  Sunrise  river.  Here  is  a 
small  village  surrounded  by  a  fine 
section  of  country.  This  is  a  great 
resort  for  sportsmen  in  Autumn,  when 
deer  and  other  game  are  abundant. 

Forrest  Lake,  5  miles,  is  another 
popular  place  of  resort  during  the 
Summer  months.  This  Lake  is  almost 
four  miles  long  and  from  one  to  two 
miles  wide.  Bass  and  pickerel  abound 
in  this  Lake,  and  atlord  fine  sport  for 
the  angler.  Deer  and  other  wild  game 
are  found  in  great  plenty.  Cranberries, 
raspberries,  blackberries,  and  whortle- 
berries, grow  here  in  great  abundance. 

Centerville  Station,  17  miles 
from  St,  Paul,  is  three  miles  east  of 
the  village  of  Cknterrille,  situated  on 
one  of  Rice  Lakes.    These  Lakes,  aud 


the  streams  connecting  them,  abound 
with  wild  ric-e,  which  is  much  prized 
by  the  inhabitants  for  food.  Wild 
ducks  and  other  game  fre(iuent  these 
Lakes  in  the  Spring  and  Fall  months 
in  immense  immbers. 

White  Bear  Lake  Station,  12 
miles  from  St.  Paul,  situated  near  the 
Lake,  is  a  place  of  great  resort  during 
the  Summer  months.  Here  are  several 
hotels  for  the  accommodation  of  visi- 
tors. The  Lake  is  a  beautiful  sheet 
of  water,  of  great  depth  and  purity, 
covering  a  surface  of  about  3,500  acres. 
The  hotels  are  very  po]>nlar  resorts 
during  the  warm  weather,  for  boating, 
fishing  and  hunting.  From  this  sta- 
tion a  Branch  Railroad,  12  miles  in 
length,  extends  to  iStillwater  on  the  St. 
Croix  river,  and  another  branch  road 
to  Minneapolis,  13  miles. 

A  late  writer  in  speaking  of  White 
Bear  Lake,  remarks: — 

"This  Lake  is  certainly  a  most 
beautiful  one;  it  is  surrounded  by 
splendid  forests,  and  its  waters  are  as 
limpid  and  transjiarent  as  the  clearest 
of  crystal.  Its  circumference  exceeds 
twenty  miles,  and  there  is  a  lovely 
island  in  its  midst,  covering  an  area 
of  over  eighty-five  acres.  Having  en- 
joyed a  delightful  sail  of  about  an 
hour,  followed  by  a  ramble  among  the 
trees  on  the  margin  of  the  Lake,  we 
resumed  our  carriages  and  drove  back 
to  the  City,  delighted  beyond  measure 
with  the  excursion,  and  glad  at  having 
had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  what  is 
confessedly  one  of  the  most  interesting 
spots  in  the  vicinity  of  St.  Paul.  The 
climate  at  White  Bear  Lake  has  quite 
a  reputation  as  a  sanatorium  for  inva- 
lids, and  persons  sufiering  from  dis- 
eases of  the  chest  and  lungs;  conse- 
quently, many  people  have  taken  up 
tneir  residence  in  the  neighborhood, 


t 


216 


TRIP  THROUGH  THE  LAKE8. 


one  and  all  of  whom  concur  as  to  the 
health- restoring  intiuenceof  its  bracing 
atmosphere;  which  physicians  believe 
possesses  an  excess  of  oxygen,  together 
with  a  peculiar  dryness  and  lightness 
which  admirably  adapti)  it  to  the  pnr 
poses  of  free  respiration.  The  lowness 
of  the  temi)erature  during  the  Sum- 
mer months,  (ranging  from  40°  to  70° 
Fahrejiheit,)  too  far  from  tending  to 
produce  colds  or  coughs,  is  found  to 
attbrd  direct  relief  to  those  affected 
with  asthma,  bronchitis,  and  other  pul- 
monary complaints.  Although  the 
Winters  are  long,  they  are  considered 
the  most  healthy  period  of  the  year; 
the  extreme  cold  not  being  greater 
than  is  sometimes  felt  in  the  Northern 
or  Eastern  States,  near  the  sea-board." 
On  approaching  St.  Paul  from  White 
Bear  Lake,  or  Stillwater,  the  railroad 
runs  near  Lake  Phalen,  which  sup- 


plies the  City  with  pure  and  wholesome 
water,  being  three  miles  distant.  Seve- 
ral other  small  Lakes  are  passed  lying 
to  the  west,  their  waters  all  flowing 
into  Lake  Phalen,  being  tributary  to 
St.  Paul ;  the  following  are  their  area 
in  acres: — 

Lake  Phalen 237  Acres. 

Lake  Gervais 210      " 

Lake  Pleasant 730     " 

Vadnais  Lake 500     " 

Lambert's  Lake 750     " 

Three  lesser  Lakes 560     " 

In  addition  to  these  Lakes  a  number 
of  others  are  readily  available,  which 
will  swell  the  aggregate  water  surface 
from  which  St.  Paul  is  to  be  supplied, 
to  several  thousand  acres.  The  quality 
of  the  water  is  superior  in  all  respects 
to  any  in  the  West,  and  is  probably, 
in  regard  to  purity,  unsurpassed  in  the 
country. 


BAHiROAD  AND  STEAMBOAT  CONNECTIONS. 


The  Lake  Superior  and  Mi'ssuisippi 
Railroad  connects  at  St.  Paul  with 
Steamers  running  on  the  Mississippi 
river,  and  with  t!ie  St.  Paul  and 
Pacific  Railroad,  the  Si.  Paul  and 
Sioux  City  Railroad,  the  Milwaukee 
and  St.  Paul  Railroad,  and  with  the 


West  Wisconsin  Railroad.  Steamers 
also  run  from  St.  Paul  up  the  Min- 
nesota river  as  far  as  navigable,  and 
up  the  St.  Croix  river  to  Taylor's 
Falls — the  latter  trip  affording  a  most 
delightful  excursion.  For  a  description 
o/  St.  Paid,  see  page  202. 


217 


THE  UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 


t    .  i  .  I 


Tins  vast  ranpo  of  country  drained  by  tho 
Mississippi  rivor  proper,  independent  of  its 
great  tributary,  the  Missouri  river,  em- 
braces most  of  the  State  of  Illinois,  and  a 
great  portion  of  the  States  of  Missouri, 
Iowa,  Wisconsin,  and  Minnesota;  asin.all 
part  of  tlie  waters  of  Illinois,  on  its  north- 
east border,  flows  into  Lake  Micliigan, 
while  nearly  one  half  of  the  waters  of 
Wisconsin  flow  in  the  same  direction, 
finding  their  outlet  through  the  Great 
Lakes  and  the  St.  Lawrence  river  into 
the  Atlantic  Ocean.  All  the  waters  of 
Missouri  and  Iowa  find  tlieir  way  into 
the  Missouri  or  Mississippi  river,  and 
thence  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The 
waters  of  Minnesota  in  part  flow  north- 
ward, through  the  Red  river  of  the  North, 
into  Lake  Winnipeg,  and  thence  into 
Hudson's  Bay.  A  portion  flows  eastward 
into  Lake  Superior,  whilst  its  nost  im- 
portant streams  are  the  Upper  Mississip- 
pi, fed  by  numerous  lakes,  and  the  St. 


Peter's  or  Minnesota  river,  falling  into 
the  Mississippi  a  few  miles  beiow  the 
Falls  of  St.  Anthony. 

The  Mississippi  river  is  navigable  for 
steamers  of  a  large  class,  during  a  good 
stage  of  water  from  St.  Paul  to  St.  Louis, 
a  distance  of  about  800  miles,  and  from 
St.  Louis  to  New  Orleans  at  all  seasons  of 
tho  year,  except  when  interrupted  by  ice, 
a  further  distance  of  about  1,200  miles; 
making  an  uninterrupted  navigation,  du- 
ring most  of  the  year,  of  upward  of  2,000 
miles,  from  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  to 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  It  is  also  navigable 
for  steamers  of  a  small  class  for  about  150 
miles  above  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony. 
Tho  entire  navigation  of  this  great  river 
and  its  numerous  tributaries  being  esti* 
mated  at  16,000  miles. 

Tho  Area  and  Population  of  the  five 
States  mostly  drained  by  the  Mississippi, 
are  as  follows : 


Illinois 55,400 

Missouri 65,000 

Iowa 65,000 

Wisconsin 53,924 

Minnesota 83,500 


alAtlon.  18(S0. 

1,711.951 

1,182,012 

674,913 

775,881 

172,023 

Population,  1870 
2.5.39,638 
1,714,102 
1,182,933 
1,032,880 
460,037 

Total 312,824 


4,616,780 


6,948,590 


This  rich  and  fertile  portion  of  the 
Union,  when  as  densely  populated  as  tho 
State  of  New  York,  will  contain  about 
25,000,000  inhabitants,  and  be  capable  of 


raising  annually  an  immense  amount  of 
broad  stufls,  meats,  and  other  agricultural 
products  for  homo  consumption  and  for- 
eign markets. 


THE  UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 


i";i 


■ 


The  Nortli-Western  States,  proper, 
including  Ohio,  Indiana,  Illinois, 
Michigan,  Wisconsin,  Iowa  and  Min- 
nesota, contains  an  area  of  378,920 
square  miles;  and,  in  1860,  contain»id 
a  population  of  7,775,678  souls,  which 
increased  in  1870,  hy  the  new  Census, 
to  10,757,944  inhahitants — being  about 
one-fourth  the  entire  population  of  the 
United  States.  The  agricultural  pro- 
ducts and  wealth  having  increased  in 
about  the  same  rapid  ratio. 

The  principal  cities  and  centres  of 
trade  for  the  above  States,  lying  on 
navigable  waters,  and  from  wliich 
Kailroads  diverge  to  different  sections 
of  the  country,  are  St.  Louis,  Burling- 
ton, Davenport,  Chicago,  Milwaukee, 
Dubuque,  and  St.  Paul.  Between  these 
different  cities  a  healthy  rivalry  exists 
for  the  trade  of  this  great  North- West- 
ern region,  which  is  annually  in- 
creasing in  population  and  wealth. 

A  large  number  of  Steamers  run 
between  St.  Louis,  Dubuque,  and  St. 
Paul,  stopping  at  intermediate  land- 
ings, affording  daily  opportunities  for 
travellers  visiting  the  Upper  Missis- 
sippi, now  annually  thronged  with 
pleasure-seekers  and  invalids  in  search 
of  health. 


Steamers,  propellers,  and  sailing  ves- 
sels run  from  Chicago,  Milwaukee,  and 
other  lake  ports  on  Lake  Michigan,  to 
Green  Bay,  Mackinac,  Lake  Superior; 
also,  to  Detroit,  Buffalo,  and  Lake 
Ontario,  via  the  Welland  Canal.  These 
steamers  and  propellers  are  usually 
thronged  with  passengers  during  the 
Summer  months.  Mackinac,  Saut  Ste. 
Marie,  Marquette,  and  the  different 
ports  on  Lake  Superior  being  delight- 
ful and  healthy  places  of  resort. 

A  Railroad  and  Steamboat  Route  is 
now  in  operation,  running  from  Chi- 
cago to  Green  Bay,  and  thence  to 
Marquette,  on  Lake  Superior,  afford- 
ing a  speedy  conveyance  to  this  health- 
restoring  region. 

The  L<<ke  Superior  and  Mississippi 
Railroad,  finished  in  August  18/0, 
forms  the  most  desirable  route  to  and 
from  Lake  Superior,  running  from  St. 
Paul  to  Duluth  ;  uniting  the  travel  on 
the  Mississippi,  Mith  the  Great  Lakes 
or  Inland  Seas  of  America ;  forming  a 
line  of  travel  from  New  Orleans  to 
Lake  Superior,  and  from  thence  to 
Montreal  and  Quebec,  a  distance  of 
about  3,800  miles ;  or,  in  other  words, 
from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  the  Gulf 
of  St.  Lawrence. 


TABLE  OP  DISTANCES. 
From  New  Orleans  to  Quebec,  via  Lake  Superior. 


OITIES,  AC, 


MILES. 


New  Orleans 0 

Baton  Kouge,  La 135 

ViCKSBURG,  Miss 387 

Helena,  Ark 715 

Memphis,  Tenn 800 

Cairo,  111 1,020 

St.  LOUIS,  Mo 1,247 

Dubuque,  Iowa 1,707 


CITIES,  kO. 


MILES. 


La  Crosse,  Wis 1,863 

St.  PAUL,  Minn 2,060 

DuLUTH 2,215 

Saut  Ste.  Marie 2,715 

Detroit,  Mich.. 3,088 

Toronto,  Can 3,312 

Montreal 3,645 

Quebec 8,815 


UJSSISSIPFI  BIYEB  GUIDE. 


219 


Mississippi  River  and  Its  Principal  Tributaries. 

* 

Nayioabli, 

Upper  Mississippl — St.  Louis  to  St.  Paul,  Minn 810  miles. 

Minnesota  River,  St.  Paul  to  Mankato 148  " 

St.  Croix,  Prescott,  to  St.  Croix  Palls,  Wis 54  " 

Chippewa,  Wisconsin 50  " 

Wisconsin  River 

Fevre  River,  from  Mouth  to  Galena,  111 8  " 

Rock  Elver,  Illinois 

Iowa  River,  to  Iowa  City 

Des  Moines  River,  Mouth  to  0*^tumwa,  Iowa  . .  90  " 

Illinois  River,  Mouth  to  La  Sallu,  111 270  '« 

Missouri  River  —  Mouth  to  Fort  Benton,  Montana 3,090  *' 

Yellow  Stone  River,  Montana. , 

Platte  River,*  Nebraska 

Kansas  River,  Mouth  to  Junction  City. 225  " 

Osage  River,  Mouth  to  Osceola,  Mo 

Ohio  River— Cairo,  111.,  to  Pittsburgh,  Penn . .  1,000  '* 

Kentucky  River,  Mouth  to  Frankfort,  Ken 

Cumberland,  Mouth  to  Burkesvillo,  Tenn 370  '* 

Tennessee,  Moutb  to  Muscle  Shoals,  Ala 600  " 

Lower  Mississippi — St.  Louis  to  Gulf  of  Me-xico 1,350 

St.  Francis  River,  Mouth  to  Wittsburg,  Ar 80  * 

Arkansas  River,  Mouth  to  Fort  Gibson,  In.  Ter.  740  •" 

White  River,  Mouth  to  Batesville,  Arkansas, . .  175  •• 

Red  River,  Mouth  to  Shreveport,  Lou 500  " 

Yazoo  River,  Mouth  to  Greenwood,  Miss 240  " 


kiLca. 

1853 

1,060 

1,215 

1,715 

1,088 

1,312 

1,645 

1,815 


The  Mississippi  River  is  the  continental  stream  of  North  America.  It  forms 
a  line  of  unbroken  navigation  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  Fort  Snelling,  Minn., 
a  distance  of  2,1(10  miles.  No  stream  has  ever  served  such  valuiil)le  purposes 
to  commerce  and  civilization ;  and  no  city  upon  its  haiiks  has  ever,  or  can  ever, 
share  so  largely  in  the  commerce  that  floats  upon  its  waters  as  St.  Louis. 

The  Platte  is  an  important  tributary  of  the  Mimiouri,  whicli,  like  the  Arkansas  river,  reaches 
to  the  biiHo  of  the  Rocky  Mouutaius,  and  spruads  over  a  wide  space,  go  that  it  is  totally  unfit 
for  navigation. 


IIMIi 


rYF  IP?  ?     ! 


T^lf 


#!' 


ill' 


I 


220 


THK  tJI'PEB  MISSISSIPPI. 


Steamboat  Route  from  St.  lionfs  to  Dubuque  and  St.  Paul 

Usual  Time,  to  Dubuque,  2iday8;  to  St.  Paul,  4Jday8.     Thbough  Fare,,  $18. 


IWW!!\M. 


^su 


Lamdinos.  Mllos. 

St.  LOUIS 0 

Mouth  Missouri  River 20 

Alton,  lU 5—25 

Mouth  Ihinois  River 

Cap  au  Gris 40 — 65 

Clarksville,  Mo 37-102 

Louisiana,  Mo 12-114 

Hannibal,  Mo 30-144 

QuiNCY,  111 20-164 

Lagrange,  Mo 12-176 

Canton 8-184 

Alexandria,  Mo 20-204 

Warsaw,  111 

Keokuk,  Iowa 4-208 

Montrose,  Iowa 12-220 

Nauvoo,  111 3-223 

Fort  Madison,  Iowa 9-232 

Pontoosuc,  111 6-238 

Burlington,  Iowa 17-255 

Oquawka,  111 15-270 

Keithsburg,  111 12-282 

New  Boston,  111 7-289 

Muscatine,  Iowa 18-307 

Rook  Island,  111.  )  30-337 

Davenport,  Iowa ) 

Lo  Claire,  Iowa 18-355 

Princeton,  Iowa 6-361 

Camanche,  Iowa 10-371 

Albany,  111 3-374 

Clinton,  Iowa 6-380 

Fulton  111.    ) 2-382 

LYON8.Iowa   J 

Babula,  Iowa 20-402 

Savanna,  111 3-405 

BoUevue,    .   va 23-428 

Galena,  Ih 12-440 

I>ubu<iue,  Iowa 20-460 

To  Chicago.   189  Miles. 


Landings.  Miles* 

DUNLEITH,  111 1-461 

Potosi  Landing,  Wis 14-476 

Buena  Vista,  Iowa 15-490 

Cassvillo,  Wis 4-494 

Guttenburg,  Iowa 10-504 

Clayton,  Iowa 12-516 

McGregor,  Iowa 11-527 

Prairie  du  Cbien,  Wis  . .    3-630 

Jgg"  To  Chicago,  229  Miles. 

Lynxville,  Wis 14-544 

Lansing,  Iowa 16-590 

DeSoto,  Wis 6-566 

Victory,  Wis 10-576 

Bad  Ax  City,  Wis 10-586 

Brownsville,  Minn 16-602 

La  Crosse,  Wis 12-614 

j;^"  To  Milwaukee,  195  Miles. 

La  Crescent,  Minn 2-616 

Richmond,  Minn 16-63«2 

Trompoloau,  Wis 5-037 

Winona,  Minn 17-654 

Fouiilain  City,  Wis 12-666 

Mount  Vernon,  Minn 14-680 

Minneiska,  Minn 4-684 

Alma,  Wis 14^-698 

Wabasha,  Minn 10-708 

Reed's  Landing 6-7 14 

Foot  Lake  Pepin 2-716 

North  Pepin,  Wis 6-722 

Lake  City,  Minn 6-727 

Maiden  Rock,  Wis 8-735 

Frontenac,  Minn 3-738 

Red  Wing,  Minn 18-756 

Prescott,  Wis 28-784 

Mouth  St.  Croix  River. 

Point  Douglass,  Minn 1-785 

Hastings,  Minn 3-788 

St.  PAUL.,  Minn 32-820 


m 


STEAMBOAT  SOVTZS. 


221 


j^teamboat  Route  from  St.  Paul  to  Dubuque  and  St.  Loult, 

Connecting  with  Railuoads  RUNNiNCt  to  Milwaukek  aud  Cuicaqo. 


1-185 

3-188 

132-820 


Landings.  Miles. 

St.    PAUL. 0 

Hastings,  Minn 32 

Point  Douglass,  Minn 3 — 35 

Mouth  St.  Croix  River. 

Prescott,  Wig 1 — 36 

Red  Wing,  Minn 28—64 

Head  Lake  Pepin 2 — 6(5 

Frontenac,  Minn 16 — 82 

Maiden  Rock,  Wis 3—85 

Lake  City,  Minn 8 — 93 

North  Pepin,  Wis 5—98 

Reed's  Landing.  Minn 8-106 

Wabasiiaw,  Minn 6-112 

Alma.  Wis 10-122 

Minn-^iska,  Minn 14-136 

Mount  Vernon,  Minn 4-140 

Fountain  City,  Wis 14-154 

Winona,  Minn 12-166 

Treinpeleau,  Wis 17-183 

Richmond,  Minn 6-188 

La  Crescent,  Minn 16-204 

La  Cr08»e,  Wis 2-206 

^^  To  Milwaukee,  195  Miles. 

Brownsville,  Minn 12-218 

Bad  Ax  City,  Wis 16-234 

Victory,  Wis 10-244 

DeSoto,  Wis 10-254 

Lansing,  Iowa 6-260 

Lynxville,  Wis 16-276 

Prairie  du  €hicn,  Wis.. .  14-290 

It^  To  Milwaukee.  194  MUes. 

McGregor,  Iowa 3-293 

Clayton,  Imva 11-304 

Guttenbnrg,  Iowa 12-316 

Oissville,  Wis 10-326 

Buuna  Viata,  Iowa 4-303 

Potosi  Landing,  Wis 16-346 

DUKLEITU,  111  14-369 


Landings.  Mile*. 

Dubuque,  Iowa 1-360 

13^  To  Chicago,  189  Miles. 

Galltja,  111 20-380 

Bcllevue,  Iowa 12-392 

Savanna,  111 23-416 

Sabula,  Iowa 3-418 

Lyons,  Iowa  )  on^aa 

Fulton,  111.   \ ^^^"^^^ 

CUnton,  Iowa 2-440 

Albany,  111 6-446 

Camanche,  Iowa 3-449 

Princeton,  Iowa 10-469 

Le  Claire,  Iowa 6-465 

Davenport,  Iowa  )  ,  q_i9^ 

Rock  Island,  111.  f ^  ''~*'*^ 

Mosc.vtine,  Iowa 30-513 

Now  Boston,  lU 18-531 

Keithsburg,  111 7-5.18 

Oquawka,  ni 12-550 

Burlington,  Iowa 15-565 

Pontoosuc,  ni 17-582 

Fort  Madison,  Iowa 6-588 

Nauvoo,  111 9-597 

Montrose,  Iowa 3-600 

Keokuk,  Iowa 12-612 

Warsaw,  lU 4^616 

Alexandria,  Mo 

Canton,  Mo 20-63G 

Lagrange,  Mo 8-644 

QUINCY,  111 12-656 

Hannihal,  Mo 20-676 

Louisiana,  Mo. 30-706 

Clarksville,  Mo 12-718 

Cap  an  Gris 37-765 

Mouth  Illinois  River 

Alton,  lU 40-795 

Mouth  Mitisouri  River 5-800 

St.  LOUIS 20-820 


I 


in 


t 


222 


THE  OTPEn  MISSISSIPPI. 


TABLE  OF 

Fbom  St.  Louis 

Lkvmvas.  Miles. 

St.  I.OIHS,  Mo 00 

JefTorson  Barracks 12 

Hcrculaneura 18 — 30 

Selma,  Mo 6—36 

Sto.  Genevieve 23—59 

Kaskaskia  Landing,  HI 6 — 65 

Mouth  Kaskaskia  River 15 — 80 

OhcstOT,  Mo 4—84 

Grand  Tower 46-130 

Bainbridgo 10-140 

Cape  Girardeau 15-156 

Commerce.  Mo 16-172 

Cairo,  El 35-207 

CoMiMBUS,  Ken 18-225 

Hickman,  Ken 25-250 

New  Madrid,  Mo 32-282 

Island  No.  11 5-287 

Needham's  Cut-off 54-341 

Plumb  Point 20-361 

Fulton,  Tenn 10-371 

Mouth  of  Hatchee  River 6-377 

Randolph 5-382 

m^Mnphis,  Tenn 65-447 


DISTANCES 

to  New  Orleans. 

Lamdinos.  Mile^ 

Commerce,  Miss 40-487 

Helena,  Ark 45-532 

Mouth  of  White  River 75-607 

Napoleon 36-642 

Gaines'  Landing 40-682 

Columbia,  Ark 20-702 

Greenville 12-714 

Port  Worthington 30-744 

Grand  Lake,  Ark 5-749 

Ashton 15-764 

Lake  Providence,  La 10-774 

Miliken's  Bend 50-824 

VickNbur^,  Miss 26-850 

Grand  Gulf,  Miss 50-900 

Rodney,  Miss 17-917 

IVHtcliCZ,  Miss 60-977 

Mouth  Red  River 60-1,037 

Bayou  Sara,  La 40-1,077 

Port  Hudson,  La 11-1,088 

Baton  Rouge,  La 24-1, 112 

Plaquemine,  La 25-1,137 

Donaldsonville,  La 30-1,167 

NEW  ORLEANS,  La...  80-l,2^V 


Steamboat  Route  fk*oni  St.  Paul  to  Mankato,  minn. 


Landinqs. 

St.  PAUL. 

Mondota 

Fort  Snelling. 


Miles. 

0 

5 

1 6 

Credit  River 1ft— 16 

Bloomington 4 — 20 

Shakopee 12 — 32 

Dhaska 6—38 

Oarver 4 — 42 

Louisville 4—46 

Strait's  Landing 10—56 

St.  Lawrence 7 — 63 

Belle  Plalne 6—69 

Henderson 11 — 80 

Le  Sueur 10—90 

Ottawa 12-102 

St.  Peter. I6-118 

BIAKKATO, 30-148 


Landings. 

IflANKATO. 

St.  Peter 

Ottawa. 

Le  Sueur 

Henderson 

Belle  Plaine 

St.  Lawrence. . . . 
Strait's  Landing. 

Louisville 

Carver 

Ghaska 

Shakopeb 

Blonmington. .. . 
Credit  River. .. ., 
Fort  Snelling.... 

Mendota 

St.  PAUL.... 


Mllea. 

0 

30 

16—46 

12—58 

10—68 

11—79 

6—85 

7—92 

10-102 

4-106 

4-110 

6-116 

12-128 

4-132 

10-142 

1-143 

5-148 


t] 


The  maiden'i*  Rock— Lake  Pepin. 

{Copied from  Harper'' a  Magazine,  July,  1853.) 


Miles. 

0-487 
5-53'2 
5-607 
;6-642 
10-632 
20-702 
12-714 
JO-744 
6-749 
15-764 
10-774 
60-824 
26-850 
50-900 
17-917 
60-977 
BO-1,037 
40-1,077 
11-1,088 
24-1,112 
125-1,137 
30-1,167 
80-1,2*7 


in. 


Miles. 
0 
30 
16—46 
12—68 
10—68 
11—79 
6—85 
7—92 
,  10-102 
4-106 
4-110 

'      6-116 
.  12-128 

4r-132 

;.  10-142 
..     1-1« 


THE  MAIDEN  S  ROCK. 

"Toward  noon  we  entered  that  grand 
expansion  of  the  Mississippi,  called  Lake 
Pepin.  Its  width  is  from  three  to  five 
milps,  and  its  length  about  twenty-five. 
It  is  destitute  of  iglauds,  and  all  along 
its  shores  are  high  bluft's  of  picturesque 
forms,  crowned  witli  shrubbery,  and  com- 
mingled with  dense  forests.  The  white 
man  has  not  yet  made  his  mark  upon 
Lake  Pepin  and  its  surroundings;  and 
there  lay  its  calm  water,  and  yonder 
uprose  its  mighty  watch-towers  in  all 
their  primal  beauty  and  grandeur.  High 
above  all  the  rest  loomed  the  bare  front 
of  the  Maiden's  Rock,  grand  hi  nature, 
and  interesting  in  its  romantic  assocfia- 
tions.    It  has  a  sad  story  to  tell  to  each 


passer-by ;  and  as  each  passer-by  always 
repeats  it,  I  will  not  be  an  exception.  It 
is  a  true  tale  of  Indian  life,  and  will 
forever  hallow  the  Maiden's  Rock,  or 
Lvver's  Leap. 

*'  Winona,  a  beautiful  girl  of  Wapasha's 
tribe,  loved  a  young  hunter  and  promised 
to  become  his  bride.  Her  parents,  like 
too  many  in  Christian  lands,  were  ambi- 
tious, and  promised  her  to  a  distingiiished 
young  warrior,  who  had  smitten  manfully 
the  hostile  Chippcwas.  The  maiden  re- 
fused the  hand  of  the  brave,  and  clung 
to  the  fortunes  of  the  hunter,  who  had 
been  driven  to  the  wilderness  by  menaces 
of  death.  The  indignant  father  declared 
his  determination  to  wed  lier  to  the  war- 
rior thao  very  day.  The  family  were  en- 
camped on  Lake  Pepin,  in  the  shadow  of 
the  great  rock.  Starting  like  a  frightened 
fawn  at  the  cruel  announcement,  she 
swiftly  climbed  to  the  summit  of  the 
clilT,  and  there,  with  bitter  words,  re- 
proached her  friends  for  their  cruelty  to 
the  hunter  and  her  own  heart.  She  then 
commenced  singing  her  dirge.  The  re- 
lenting parents,  seeing  the  peril  of  their 
child,  besought  her  to  come  down,  and 
take  her  hunter  lover  for  a  husband. 
But  the  maiden  too  well  knew  the  treach- 
ery that  was  hidden  in  their  promises, 
and,  when  her  dirge  was  ended,  she 
leaped  from  the  lofty  pinnacle,  and  fell 
among  the  rocks  and  shrubbery  at  its 
base,  a  martyr  to  true  affection.  Super- 
stition invests  that  rock  Avith  a  voice ;  and 
oftentimes,  as  the  birch  canoe  glides 
near  it  at  twilight,  the  dusky  paddlor 
fancies  he  hears  the  soft,  low  music  of 
the  dirge  of  Winona." 


ff 


I 


lu! 


228 


4 

a 


Thr  I'lty  of  St.  I'aut,  -.i  port  of  iiin^i.<he(!)  by  out  I'umnt,  a  Canatliarif 

entry,  c.iiiitiJ  of  Miuiics«jta,  mul  writ  of  who  built  a  inbiu  .in  /•.p-»ih  Stn-ot.     In 

■  ),.M!t   t.y 


C.lli 

jii^iice  of  Kiiinspv  cuiuily,  iuobI  :i<iv;iii-;  IH!0,  a  little  lug  clr.f*- 
tHgwiwly  sitiiaU'fl  on  ilic  left  bank  of  llic  |  Failirr  Gaiilticr,  a  (u  : 
Mi-*irtHipp',  2,lU0  itiile-.  from  iti  mouth,  on  the  present  site  i-t 
820  inilert  ubnvf  Si.  Jxiui/s,  and  l<i  iniKs'Tlie  I'hiinh,  or  unsnion  * 
by  hind  Mow  tho  Falh  of  St.  Anchony  ;  j  l'4ul'i«,''  wliu-h  htnoelbn 
helnc  elevaUil  <)i)0  fci;t  aUn'i!  the  'iulf  inujiM  of  t'ti«  BcitUunent. 


•nary 


'A 


•i     (••.iTH'tU" 


of  >leiioo;  in  !at.  •14''  52'  north,  h.tig. 

91V'  ■>'  w^-st  from  Gioonwioh.     It  Ih  nil 

UsxW-d  on  a  bliiU",  (iOor  VO  fo^t  hiKo.  r:..',ng-i-ky  ii»  Uif  I'nion.     Jn  I 


It«  ffr  mth  iu   popuiaU<i«   foi 
year*  m.L•^  in'rhapn  unsiiri 


in 


y 


to  100  feet,  and  [irc^fiita  a  xrvnd  viow 
from  tlxc  rivtrr.     It  ih  near  ih<?  he.vl  of 
sN'-vmboat  iiavi^'iitioii  on  the  MiHi<iw5)pi 
6  railcrt  below  tb(»  mouth  "f  tli<.',  Minrn. 
pota  river,  wiiiih  entera  from  ihi  w«'>*t  ai 


■^Hihabit.ttitt;  in  iMtf,  H);  in  i^•^^;  aiwiut 

V'  t  while  I, •  In  1S4'J,  'itXt  1S.>0  (^feniiui, 

i.n-i,    '>"-5   •i/.«iO;    1S57,  1>,!J73;    'St>0 

■(?{!>.■.       HV.^77;  187U  (cendiiH),  20,031 

*jii:>  V  !li!ic-  bnii''inf;a  in  St.  Paul  ar« 


' 

..  t*i»;vat.«Hl  fX'0'Jn<l ;  '* 
,  Hr.il  fiiy  '(".I't  ■   »  ]►"!•"'■ 

c.iMr».- 

■    •■  M' 

<,f 

';v»?  put  ' 
,...',  20.'-- 

■■*> 
,V 

4 

Fort  Snelllriff,  the  river  Lore  bekOR  aKnilj*  btafc*  UoUfiOj  lyhich  i«  i»  brick  e<iilice, 

a  fpiart4?r  of  ii  mile  iu  width. 

on  the  <  »iiiiit;nt  of  \W'    ,.'<  i  . 

commanding  ponitiun  or  U««li4»^   iw..* 

tiou  than  this  nv>''»  Ltv-'i-t*  i-iv/.   '^ctjum- 

eru  of  u  \dcf;v  <  hwm,  duriiif;  a  gooti  sta^i: 

of  water,  can  di'.s<HM)d  to  New  OrU  .wirf,  i  nj«  ; 

2,UoO  toil«*t  di*!.a.»t,  Al*'*f«*  the  l^aiL-i  uf  ,«?rif- 

8'..  Antliony,  navigation  in  atfor<icd,  for|inc«r«n:v 

trteamers  of  a  small  claa«.  f-^.r  .iI-.j:  150:.se,       ' 

mi l'.t»,  whili'  iho  .St.  PelerH  or  M '"   u  s.<-..'i :  V 

river  ntlbrds  about  a  iilco  extent  of  i>uvi- 1  aii>''  j 

gatiun,   '.lowing  throuji[li  a  vvry   fertile  eti;  j.u.  .        .     . 

Heotiou  of  country.  ittfvcral     exti'^nsi 

Saint  Paul  is  one  of  ihrt  oldwt  >■■■■  '■■        '"    s'ui  |iri 
ni(Mit.-«  in  the  State.     Father  llcip  •  ."r  loai  , 

vii^ited  and  speaks  of  its  sitt  '  l<i;>i>;. 
Jonatha/i  Carver  made  a  treaty  in  I7rt6 
with  the  Dakoto-M  in  '  'arver'a  Oav**  whioh 


„  .         ..  .touHe^, 
lflrew«rus«,   flouring 

't}»  t•^^nler- 
.  'ishmenta. 


A  »u  nien  bruise  l>ere  ciiaui'  tJie  Mi:-.sia- 
sippi  Hive*",  b«unf<  a  'piartcr  of  a  mile  ia 
lenv'tlj ;  c-ost.  $l.'iO,vttX».      \.  Government 

is  still  iucxiHteaoe  under  Daytoa'.-*  P-lwUJ  easi'.ni-lioswt^.iud  j«.mt-..'tfiw  !>uiIoins;ha8 

•within  the  present  limitsof  the  oily.  The  i  lately  ijee«   '^tuivd.     Several   railroads 

site  of  the  city  was  k 

irom  time  iinmi-mori 

*■/!,''  or  '■  White   liock,''    from 


nown  to  thf  DakotaMjare  (x>iiMtrnc-«Al  running  west,  north,  and 

■in'  na  "lin-min-iiia-  M:[i\.\,  ff\      '^*   Paul,  rnakiui;  it  tho  cca- 


.•'iii-'i  trc  ••. 
Idurt'  of  white  t*anddtune,   a  prominent i      TU.! 
landmark.  j  er^ 

The  fir<?t  aetaal  w'tileiiient  was  made  jt. 
in  lc,^.'i8  (juiii  af-ev  i1j>   fudisin  title  m  the  j  ^^* 
laud e48t of  th«  2>Iii»ta«ippi  U»d  btien  ex- ,*< 


•  uiiiiive  sviDtem  of  railwaya- 
*: rival  aud  uepaiturc  of  stt-ajtu*^ 
•.u)<'i«>n«  dunng  the  ««:am.in  ctf  j 
,,  there  l^tiiig  daily  linen  itnoi  j 
l^^il  oque,  lia  O'^^^v  VVLniiB*,  i 
.iiOi  JuuAuesvta  Kiver. 


11 


a 


lllf 


m 


The  City  of  St.  Paul,  a  port  of 
entry,  capital  of  Minnesota,  and  seat  of 
justice  of  Rarasev  coiinty,  most  advan- 
tageously situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Mississippi,  2,100  miles  from  its  mouth, 
820  miles  above  St.  Louis,  and  10  miles 
by  land  below  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  ; 
being;  elevated  690  feet  above  the  (Julf 
of  Mexico;  in  lat.  44°  52'  north,  long. 
93°  S'  west  from  Greenwich.  It  is  sit- 
uated on  a  blutt",  (30  or  70  feet  high,  rising 
to  100  feet,  and  presents  a  grand  view 
from  the  river.  It  is  near  the  head  of 
steamboat  navigation  on  the  Missiasippi, 
5  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Minne- 
sota river,  which  enters  from  the  west  at 
Fort  SncUing,  the  river  here  being  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  width.  No  place 
on  the  continent  of  America  has  a  more 
commanding  position  or  healthy  loca- 
tion than  this  most  favored  city.  Steam- 
ers of  a  large  class,  during  a  good  stage 
of  water,  can  descend  to  New  Orleans, 
2,000  miles  distant;  above  the  Falls  of 
St.  Anthony,  navigation  is  afforded,  for 
steamers  of  a  small  class,  for  about  150 
miles,  while  the  St.  Peter's  or  Minnesota 
river  affords  about  a  like  extent  of  navi- 
gation, flowing  through  a  very  fertile 
section  of  country. 

Saint  Paul  is  one  of  the  oldest  settle- 
ments in  the  State.  Father  Hennepin 
visited  and  speaks  of  its  site  (1680). 
Jonathan  Carver  made  a  treaty  in  1766 
with  the  Dakotas  in  Carver's  Cave,  which 
is  still  in  existence  under  Dayton's  BlufT, 
within  the  present  limits  of  the  city.  The 
site  of  the  city  was  known  to  the  Dakotas 
from  time  immemorial  as  "Im-min-i-jaa- 
ka,"  or  "White  Rock,"  from  its  high 
bluff  of  white  sandstone,  a  prominent 
landmark. 

The  first  actual  settlement  was  made 
in  1838  (just  after  the  Indian  title  to  the 
land  east  of  the  Missiasippi  had  been  ex- 


tinguished) by  one  Parrant,  a  Canadian, 
who  built  a  cabin  on  liench  Street.  In 
1840,  a  little  log  chapel  was  built  by 
Father  Gaultier,  a  Catholic  missionary, 
on  the  present  site  of  "(.'atholic  Block." 
The  church,  or  mission  was  called  "St. 
Paul's,"  which  henceforth  became  the 
name  of  the  settlement. 

Its  growth  in  population  for  a  few 
years  was  perhaps  unsurpassed  by  any 
city  in  the  Union.  In  1838  it  had  only 
3  inhabitants ;  in  1846, 10 ;  in  1848  about 
50  (white);  in  184'V  400|;  1850  (census), 
1,112;  1854,4,500;  1857,9,973;  1860 
(census),  10,277 ;  1870  (census),  20,031. 

The  public  buildings  in  St.  Paul  are 
a  State  House;  which  is  a  brick  edifice, 
standing  on  elevated  ground  ;  a  court- 
house, jail,  and  city  hall ;  a  public  mar- 
ket building,  five  public-school  edifices, 
an  opera  house;  20  church  edifices,  many 
of  them  being  fine  structures;  also,  4 
national  banks,  besides  several  firms 
engaged  in  the  banking  business ;  three 
insurance  companies,  a  gas  company, 
several  large  and  well-kept  hotels,  the 
Metropolitan  Hotel,  the  Merchants'  Hotel, 
and  Park  Place  being  the  most  frequent- 
ed; numerous  stores  and  storehouses, 
several  extensive  breweries,  flouring 
mills,  and  printing  offices,  besides  numer- 
ous other  manufacturing  establishments. 
A  wooden  bridge  here  spans  the  Missis- 
sippi River,  being  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in 
length  ;  cost,  $150,000.  A  Government 
custom-house  and  post-office  building  has 
lately  been  erected.  Several  railroads 
are  constructed  running  west,  north,  and 
south  from  St.  Paul,  making  it  the  cen- 
tre of  an  extensive  system  of  railways. 

The  arrival  and  departure  of  steam-^ 
ers  are  numerous  during  the  season  of 
navigation,  there  being  daily  lines  from 
St.  Louis,  Dubuque,  La  Crosse,  Winona, 
and  up  the  Minnesota  Biver. 


{ 


I 


i 


224 


THE  UPPER  MISHiaSIPPI. 


Progress  of  MlnneHotu  In  Population  and  Wealth. 


The  following  Table  shows  the  general 
increase  of  pu))ulation  and  assesHCtl  prop- 
erty valuation  in  the  Htate  at  large,  from 
the  date  of  its  Territorial  organization, 
and  the  auperticial  expansion  of  settle- 
Dient  as  indicated  by  the  number  of 
countieH  assessed.  The  census  enumera- 
tions of  population  are  given  for  the  years 
1850,  18(J0,  18(1'),  and  1870,  the  popula- 
tion for  the  remaining  years  being  esti- 
mated from  the  popular  vote: 

TABLB     8UOWINO     THB     GROWTH    OF    THE 
SPATK    SINCB     1860. 


Year.    No.  AKHesged      Val.  of  I'ers. 
CountieH.     and  Ileal  Estate. 


Popula- 
tion. 


1860 
1861 
1862 
1863 
1864 


fl  $806,447  6,077 

a  1,282,123  7,000 

8  1,715,(«5  10,000 

6  2,701,437  14,000 

18  3,608,618  32,000 


Year. 

1866  . 
IK^e  . 
1K67  . 
1858  . 
186tf  . 

1860  . 

1861  . 

1862  . 

1863  . 
1866  . 


Popula- 
tion. 


No.  AMMRed      Yal.  of  Pern. 
Counties,      and  Keal  Kiittitu. 

13  $10,424,167  40,000 

24  24,394,3«5  100,000 

31  4tt,336,673  160,037 

37  41,846,778  166,000 

40  36,6tU,402  162,000 

41  36,7&3,408  172,022 

44  39,077,631  190,000 

29,832,719  200,000 

82,211,324  225,000 

48  260,m)9 


1870  460,037 


POPULATION   OF  ST.    PAUL. 

The  following  Table  will  indicate  the 
growth  of  population  since  1850: 


Year. 
1860  .. 
1862  ., 
1853  ., 
1864  ., 
1866  .. 


Population.  Year.    Population. 

....  840  1867  9,973 

1,800  1888  10,000 

,....2,600  1860  10,600 

4,600  1866  13,176 

....  8,600  1870  20,031 


Railroads  DiTerging  fVom  St.  Pant,  Minnesota. 


NAME. 


PROM  TO  MILM. 

Paul, Breckinridge 217 

Anthony, June.  Northern  Pacific. 

Paul, Sioux  City,  Iowa 270 

Paul, Duluth 166 

Stillwater  Branch, ."..'. White  Bear  Lake,. Stillwater, 12 

Milwaukee  and  St.  Paul St.  Paul, State  Line, 134 

Chicago  and  St.  Paul  St.  Paul, Winona, 105 

Dubuque  and  St.  Paul*, St.  Paul, Cedar  Falls,  Iowa, 

West  Wisconsin  St.  Paul, Cliicago,  111 410 


St.  Paul  and  Pacific,  Main  Line  St. 

"         "        Branch  Line*  ...St. 

St.  Paul  and  Sioux  City  St. 

Lake  Superior  and  Mississippi, St. 


Early  History  of  St.  Paul. 


The  history  of  what  is  now  St.  Paul, 
divides  itself  into  three  distinct  periods, 
marked  by  corresponding  changes  of 
names. 

1.  The  period  of  Indian  occupancy  till 
1838,  when  it  was  known  as  Imnijatka,  or 
♦•White  Rock." 

2.  The  period  of  squatter  settlement, 


fVom  1838  to  1849,  when  it  was  known 
by  the  Indians  as  "the  place  where  they 
sell  whiskey,"  and  by  the  whites  as 
'Tiff's  Ei/e." 

3.  Since  1849,  when  it  was  selected  as 
the  Capital  of  the  Territory  of  Minnesott^ 
by  the  name  of  St.  Paul,  which  had  been 
bestowed  upon  it  two  years  before. 


*  Unflnisbed. 


lARLT  HISTORY  OF  ST.   PAUL. 


225 


270 
166 
12 
134 
106 

I  410 


icsot^ 
beeo 


FinsT  "WiiiTK  Mak  iw  St.  Paul. — 
TiOuis  Ilcnnopui,  whoso  name  is  iiiunor- 
tally  a.s80cinU)«l  with  tho  history  of  Min- 
nesota as  tho  first  white  man  wlio  as- 
cended tho  Mississippi  within  its  borders, 
and  as  tho  discoverer  of  tho  Falls  of  St. 
Anthony,  was  undoubtedly  tho  first  wliite 
man  who  ever  set  foot  upon  the  site  of 
Pt.  Paul.  On  April  30th,  IfiSO,  over 
one  hundred  ami  eighty-four  years  a^o, 
Hennepin,  a  oiptive  in  the  hands  of  a 
war  party  of  Dakotas  on  their  way  to 
Mille  Lacs,  "landed  inabay,  five  loaj^ues 
below  tho  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,"  a  descrip- 
tion of  which,  with  other  circumstances, 
fixes  tho  looility  under  Dayton's  Plutf,  at 
tho  mouth  of  Trout  Brooi< — about  three 
quarters  of  a  mile  below  tho  Steamboat 
landing. 

The  First  American  in  St.  Paul. — 
EiRhty-aoven  years  have  passed  since  the 
arrival  of  Hennepin.  Porrot  has  built 
and  abandoned  a  fort  on  Lfxko  Pepin,  and 
planted  tho  arms  of  Franco  in  Minnesota. 
he  Souor  has  explored  tho  Minnesota  and 
jfiven  it  tho  namo  of  his  gallant  friend, 
Capt.  St.  Pierre.  Tho  Dakotas  have  been 
driven  from  tho  northern  lakes  by  the 
Chippowas,  and  Minnesota,  by  the  treaty 
of  Marseilles,  has  just  passed  from  the 
dominion  of  France  to  tho  flag  of  Eng- 
land, when  on  one  fine  morning  in  No- 
vember, 17^  ',  a  keen,  practical  Yankee, 
tlio  forerunner  of  all  the  Yankees  in  this 
part  of  tho  world,  stopped  into  St.  Paul 
near  where  Hennepin  had  landed  three 
generations  before.  It  was  Bpother 
JoNTATiLAN  Carver,  frosh  from  Con- 
necticut, come  to  trade — Carver,  great 
progenitor  of  the  land  speculafcors  of 
Minnesota,  first  and  greatest  of  tho  race. 

Carver's  C  ive.— Jonathan's  landing 
was  at  tho  foot  of  Dayton's  Bluff,  and  his 
account  of  the  discovery  made  there  is 
the  first  memorial  which  links  St.  Paul 
with  the  traditions  of  the  Dakotas:— 


"About  thirteen  miles  bolow  tho  Falls 
of  St.  Anthony  *  *  is  a  remarkaJjlo 
cave,  of  anuizing  depth.  Tlie  Indiiuis 
tenn  it  Wakan  teobe,  that  is,  the  dwdling 
of  the  i     ., . 

"  Tho  rch  within  is  near  fifteen  foot 
high  anu  about  thirty  broad ;  tho  bottom 
consists  of  clear  sand.  About  thirty  feet 
from  the  entrance  begins  a  lake,  the  water 
of  which  is  transparent,  and  extends  to 
an  unsearchable  distance,  for  tho  dark- 
ness of  the  cave  prevents  all  attempts  lo 
acriuiro  a  knowledge  of  it.  *  ♦  *  * 
I  found  in  this  cave  many  Indian  hiero- 
glyphics, wliich  appeared  Very  ancient, 
for  tliey  were  so  covered  with  moss  that 
it  was  with  difficulty  I  could  trace  tiicni. 
They  were  cut  in  a  rude  manner  upon 
tlie  inside  of  tho  wall,  which  was  com- 
posed of  a  stone  so  extremely  soft  that 
it  might  be  easily  penetrated  with  a 
knife.  ♦  *  ♦  At  a  little  distance 
from  this  dreary  cavern  is  the  buryiug- 
>laco  of  several  bands  of  Naudowessio 
Dakota]  Indians.  Though  these  people 
iavo  no  fixed  residence,  being  in  tents, 
and  seldom  but  a  few  months  in  one  spot, 
yet  they  always  bring  tho  bones  of  their 
dead  to  this  place,  which  they  take  tlio 
opportunity  of  doing  when  iho  chiefs  meet 
to  hold  their  councils  and  to  settle  public  af- 
fairs for  the  ensuing  suin7ner." 

These  ancient  burial  mounds  still  exist 
on  Dayton's  lih\i\\  and,  a  few  years  ago, 
Mr.  Neill  had  one  of  them  opened.  In 
this,  which  was  218  feet  in  ciromifecence 
and  18  foot  high,  he  found  tho  remains  of 
skulls  and  teeth  at  tho  depth  of  tiiree  or 
four  feet. 

In  1 807,  Major  Long  was  obliged  to 
creep  through  tho  sandstone  debris  at  its 
mouth  on  all  fours.  In  1837,  Nicollet 
worked  for  two  days  to  effect  an  entrance, 
and  confirmed  the  accuracy  of  Carver's 
description. 

"A  Chippewa  warrior  n>ade  a  long 


15 


I    '  '; 


Mil 


226 


THK  UPPEB  kUfiSlBSIPP* 


hamnfifue  on  tho  occasion,  throw  his  knife 
into  tho  kiko  as  an  offerinf?  to  Wakan 
tibi."  Indian  pictograplis  still  remain, 
gray  with  ago,  upon  portions  of  the  wall 
Btill  standing. 

After  a  voyago  to  what  is  now  Anoka, 
and  up  tho  Miuuosota  river  for  200  miles, 
CaTvor,  on  tho  Istof  May,  1767,  returned 
to  tho  "Groat  Cavo,"  wl>cro  ho  officiated 
as  tho  first  reprosoikativo  of  tho  whites 
in  tho  groat  Annual  Legislative  Session 
of  tho  Dakota  bands,  and  made  tho  first 
Bpctech  ever  de-Uvered  by  a  Yankee  in  St. 
Paul. 

"At  this  8ea.son,"  says  Carvor,  "these 
bands  go  annually  to  the  Great  Cavo  be- 
loro  mentioned  to  hold  a  grand  council 
with  all  the  other  bands,  wherein  they  settle 
all  their  operations  /or  the  ensuing  sum- 
mer."  Thus  early  v/as  St.  Pa^il  the 
Capital  of  Afinne-iota. 

Nothing  could  be  more  significant  of 
tho  geographical  centrality  of  St.  Paul 
than  this  fact,  that  from  immemorial  time 
it  had,  at  that  date,  boon  tlio  political 
centre  of  the  scattered  bands  of  the  Da- 
kota nation. 

The  First  Land  SPECuiiATOR  m  St. 
Paul. — It  was  hero,  too,  at  this  "Great 
Cave,"  that  the  first  conveyance  of  Umd  waa 
made  and  the  first  deed  signed  in  Minne- 
sota. Thia  was  tho  instrument  by  which 
tho  heirs  of  Carver  founded  their  title  to 
Carver's  tract,  which  contained  St.  An- 
thony, St.  Pan'  and  a  largo  part  of  Wis- 
consin. Tho  document  is  curious,  and 
runs  in  this  wise : 

"To  Jonathau  Carver,  a  chief  under 
tho  most  mighty  and  potent  George  tho 
riiir'i.  King  of  tho  English  and  otlier  na. 
tions,  tho  fame  of  whoso  warriors  has 
reached  our  ears,  has  boon  now  fully  told 
us  by  our  good  brother  Jonathan,  afore- 
said, whom  we  rojoioe  to  havo  come 
among  us  and  bring  us  good  news  from 
his  oouctry. 


"  Wq,  the  chiefs  of  the  NaudowessieSt 
wlio  havo  hereunto  set  our  seals,  do,  by 
these  presents  for  ourselves  and  our  heirs 
forever,  in  return  for  tho  aid  and  other 
good  services  done  by  tho  said  Jonathan 
to  ourselves  and  our  allies,  give,  grant, 
and  convey  to  him,  tho  said  Jonathan, 
and  to  his  heirs  and  assigns  forever,  tho 
whole  of  a  certain  tract  of  territory  or 
land,  bounded  as  follows,  viz. :  From  the 
Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  running  on  tho  oast 
side  of  tho  Mississippi,  nearly  south-east, 
as  far  as  Eako  Popiu  where  tho  Chippewa 
joins  tho  Mississippi,  and  from  thence 
eastward  five  days'  travel,  accounting 
twenty  English  miles  por  day,  and  from 
thence  again  to  tho  Falls  of  St.  Anthony. 
We  do,  for  ourselves,  heirs,  and  assigns 
forever  give  unto  the  said  Jonathan,  hia 
heirs  and  assigns,  with  all  the  trees,  rocks, 
and  rivers  therein,  reserving  the  solo 
liberty  of  hunting  and  fishing  on  land  not 
planted  or  improved  by  tho  said  Jonathan, 
his  heirs  and  assigns,  to  which  wo  have 
affixed  our  respective  seals,  at  the  Great 
Cave,  May  Ist,  1767. 

"[Signed] 

"  H  A  W-NO^AW-A-TON. 

"  O-TOH-TON-GOOM-LISItRAW." 


It  was  here,  too,  nearly  a  century  ago, 
that  Carvor  anticipated  that  splendid 
scheme  of  commercial  intercommunica- 
tion whoso  roidization  in  our  day  is  to 
make  St.  Paul  tho  focus  of  tho  internal 
commopco  of  tlio  continent.  With  tho 
Delphic  nwnen  of  tho  cave  upon  him,  he 
foresaw  that  in  the  fat  soil  and  laughing 
waters  of  Minnesota  tho  elements  were 
ripening  for  tho  sustenance  of  future 
populations,  who,  he  says,  will  be  •'  able 
to  convoy  their  produce  to  tho  seaports 
with  groat  facility.  ♦  *  This  might 
also  in  time  be  fadlitatcd  by  canals  or 


ST.  PAtn:.TO  ST,   AXTHONY— FORT  8NELLIN0 


227 


shorter  cms.  and  a  communiMtion  opened 
by  water  with  New  York,  by  way  of  Ike 
lakes." 

IIiTo,  too,  Carver  conceived  tho  project 
of  a  Northern  P.icnlic  route  by  tho  way  of 
tho  Minnesota  and  Oref,'on  rivers,  which, 
ho  says,  "  would  open  a  jiassajfo  for  con- 
veying intelliKonco  to  China  and  the  Eng- 
lish settlements  in  tho  East  Indies" — an 
idea  which  will  doubtless  bo  consum- 
mated in  our  day. 

Tub  Okaole  op  tub  Cave  di;mh. — 
After  Carver  robs  tho  "  Great  Cave'  of 
its  mif^hty  secret  that  ha,  throbbed  for 
ages  at  its  heart,  tho  "  Dwelling  of  tho 
gods"  is  henceforth  shut  to  all  the 
world. 

Henceforth,  for  seventy  years,  the 
oraelo  is  dumb,  silent,  stony,  impene- 
trable as  tho  Sphinx,  its  white  fiico  turned 


in  speechless  propliecy  toward  the  ter 
raced  Hloj)es  which  lay  there  before  ita 
cloH(;d  mouth. 

History  rolled  over  "White  Rock"  and 
past  it,  but  took  no  notice  of  it.  Tiio 
bravo  Pike  goes  past  it  in  1805,  and  ig- 
nores it.  Long  besi(!gea  tho  unuttera>)le 
oraeb  in  vain  in  1807.  Fort  Snelling  is 
established  in  18 1 9.  Mendota  becomes 
tho  depot  of  the  fur  trade.  Events  are 
clustering  around  it,  but  all  look  past  it, 
till  18;{7,  when  the  Dakotas  were  per- 
suaded to  c«de  their  lands  on  the  east 
side  of  tho  river  to  the  United  States, 
on  account  of  tho  valuable  pine  lands 
and  water  power  thereon.  Tho  treaty 
was  ratified  at  Washington  in  1833, 
and  Imnijaska  ceased  to  be  Indian  terri- 
tory 


Drive  from  §t.  Paul  to  tlic  FuIIn  of  St.  Anthony,  returning 

\ii\  Fort  Snelling. 


Iry  ago, 
Iplendid 
Inunicoi- 
ly  is  to 
Internal 
'ith  tho 
|him,  ho 
lughing 
ts  were 
future 
•'able 
jeaporta 
might 
Lais  or 


This  excursion  affords  one  of  the  most 
interesting  drive.-*  in  any  part  of  tho 
country.  On  leaving  St.  Paul,  by  private 
conveyance,  you  pass  through  Madison 
avenuo  to  the  open  plains  which  skirt  tho 
city,  and  then  follow  the  direct  road  to 
St.  Anthony,  10  miles.  One  or  two 
beautiful  cascades  are  passed  near  the 
roadside,  as  you  ajiproach  tho  groat  Falls. 

The  State  University,  another  object  of 
interest,  situated  east  of  tho  road,  over- 
looking tho  Falls,  is  a  flonrisliing  inslitu- 
tution  of  learning.  Tho  town  o*"  ,T.  An- 
liloNT,  with  its  saw  mills  apd  factorie.s, 
propelled  by  water  power,  extends  for  near 
aniUo  above  ami  below  tho  Falls.  Hero 
is  a  Suspension  Bridge  of  tine  propor- 
tions, spiimiing  the  stream  above  tlie  cas- 
cade, 

MlNWEOPOT.w,  u  largo  and  fiourisliing 
place,  is  situated  ou  the  west  bank,  sur- 


rounding tho  Falls,  wlicro  are  very  ex- 
tensive saw  mills,  gristmills,  paper  mills, 
and  other  factories,  all  being  propelled  by 
water-oower,  and  all  well  worthy  of  a 
visit.  Here  is  a  good  hotel,  where 
visitors  usually  stop  for  refreshments. 

On  returning,  the  road  runs  along  tho 
west  bank  of  the  Mississippi  for  four 
miles,  when  tho  Falls  of  Minnc-ha-ha  are 
reached.  This  beautiful  fall  of  water, 
made  famous  by  poetry  and  romantic 
scenery,  is  almost  beyond  description,  as 
seen  at  different  seasons.  It  has  a  per- 
pe^'.'iculaf  fall  of  about  40  feet,  and  can 
be  viewed  from  the  rear,  as  the  rocks  re- 
cede so  as  to  allow  a  passage  from  side 
to  side  under  the  fall  of  water.  About 
half  a  mile  below,  this  pure  stream  enters 
into  the  Mississippi. 

Fort  SNELLrNO,  two  or  throe  miles 
farther,  aad  six  miles  abovo  St,  Paul,  is 


228 


THE  TTPPEE  MISSISSIPPI. 


an  old  Govormncnt  post,  where  arc 
usually  quartered  more  or  less  troops ; 
at  the  present  time  (1865)  there  are  two 
regiments.  Standing  at  tlie  junction  of 
the  Minnesota  and  Missisisippi  Rivers, on 
elevated  groiuid,  it  has  a  very  pit-turosque 
appearance.  Hero  is  a  ropo  forry  across 
tlie  rivor,  loading  toward  St.  Paul,  it 
Ijelng  reached  by  a  circuitous  road  run- 
ning under  the  biuffs,  affording  higldy 
romantic  views.  Here  the  Milwaukee 
and  St.  Paul  Railroad  crosses  the  Min- 
nesota River. 

The  next  object  of  interest  is  a  Cave, 
2  miles  above  St.  Paul,  which  will  well 
rojiay  a  visit  to  its  subterranean  ciworns, 
from  whence  issues  a  lovely  sheet  of  pure 
water. 


Mendota,  Minn.,  is  situated  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Mississippi  River,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Minne8f)ta,  5  miles  above 
St.  Paul.  This  is  one  of  the  earliest 
settled  places  in  tlio  State,  being  formerly 
the  head-quarters  of  the  American  Fur 
Company.  Here  are  two  churches,  an 
hotel,  and  several  stores.  Population, 
600.  The  Milwaukee  and  St.  Paul  Rail- 
road and  tlie  Minnesota  Valley  Railroad 
form  a  junction  at  Mendota,  both  riv- 
ers being  crossed  by  a  drawbridge. 

FouT  Snkllino,  G  miles  above  St.  Paul, 
is  an  important  United  States  post  and 
rendezvous,  situated  on  a  commanding 
eminence  at  the  junction  of  the  Minnesota 
and  Mississippi  Rivers,  6  miles  beiow  the 
FaLs  of  St.  Anthony. 


PrACES  AND  OBJECTS  OF  INTEREST 

Twenty-four  Miles  around  St.  Paul. 


West  Side  Mississippi  River. 


Milc& 


Mendota !> 

Fori  Snelling  and  Ferry 6 

Falls  of  Minnehaha 8 

Diamond  Lake 9 

Rico  Lake 10 

Lake  Amelia 10 

Motlier  Lake 10 

Wood  Lake 11 

Grass  Lake 11 

Minneapolis 11 

Cedar  Lake l[\ 

Crystal  Lake 14 

Lake  (Calhoun 14 

Lake  Harriet 14 

Medicine  Lake 16 

Shakopee 22 

Lake  Minnetonka 24 


Eiist  Side  Mississ^pi  River. 

Mllet. 

Carver's  Cave 1 

Fountain  Cave 2 

Lake  Como 3 

Phalon's  Lake 3 

Little  Canada  6 

Gervais  Lake 6 

Mazaska  Falls 6 

13ass  liako 6 

Vadnois  Lake 1 

Black-Bass  Lake 9 

Fawn's  Leap  and  Silver  Cascade. ...  9 

St.  Anthony's  Fali^ 10 

White-Bear  Lake 12 

Bald-R'aglo  Lake 14 

Stilhvater  (St.  Croix  River) 18 

Hudson,  Wis 20 

Forest  Lake 24 


At.  Lake  Como,  3  miles  from  St.  Paul, 
there  is  good  fishing  and  two  well-kept 
public-houses. 


Remurki. 

Wuite-Bear  Lake,  12  miles  by 
railroad  ;  here  is  good  boating  and  fish- 
ing, andseveralweil-kept  public-houses. 


THE  PALLS  OF  ST.   ANTHOlTr. 


220 


At  Lake  Harriet,  14  miles,  there  is  a 
well-kopt  hotoJ,  boating,  and  fishing. 

Lake  Minnetonka,  24  miles  from  St. 
Paul,  by  railroad  route,  is  one  of  the 
largest  sheets  of  water  in  the  State.  Its 
shores  are  indented  with  beautUul  bays, 
fertile  lands,  and  sloping  bluffs,  crowned 
with  forest  trees,  coming  down  to  the 
water's  edge  Islands,  covered  with  the 
gorgeous  green  of  Minnesota's  foliage,  are 
scattered  liberally  over  its  surface  of  pure 
sparkling  waters,  abounding  with  the 
finest  of  fish,  aflbrding  great  sport  to  the 
angler.  Sail  and  row  boats  can  be  procured 
at  the  hotels  for  pleasure  parties,  anil  those 
desiring  to  see  the  extended  beauties  of 
land  and  water  scenery  can  do  so  by 
taking  a  trip  on  the  miniature  steamer, 
"  Lady  of  the  Lake."  This  is  a  charming 
place  of  resort  for  invalids  and  seekers  of 
pleasure. 

The  lish  wliich  are  mostly  taken  in 
these  lakes  are  bass,  pike,  and  pickerel  of 
a  fine  (piality. 

Mixneuaiia  River,  the  outlet  of  some 
of  the  small  lakes  in  this  vicinity,  is  a 
shallow,  sparkling  stream,  dashing  over 
its  pebbly  bed  and  around  its  little  islands 
in  the  most  gleeful  manner.  \Vithout  a 
warning,  without  even  any  preliminary 
rapids,  it  makes  the  leap  which  is  called 
the  Falls  of  Minnehaha.  A  graceful  leap 
it  is.  The  stream  springs  over  in  one 
sheet  of  sparkling  foam,  landing  in  a  ba- 
sin which  for  centuries  it  has  been  bu.><ily 
hollowing  out  for  itself — a  basin  much 
like  that  into  which  the  Kaaterskill  Fall 
leaps,  and  like  that,  too,  in  presenting 
behind  the  sheet  of  water  a  smooth  con- 
cave recess,  around  which  it  is  possible 
for  a  man  to  pass,  coming  out  at  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  cataract.  The  foliage 
in  the  vicinity  is  as  gracefully  disposed 
by  nature  as  the  artist  could  wish,  and 
in  itself  and  all  its  surroundings  Minne- 
haha is  a  type  of  perfectioa  of  its  class — a 


model  for  nil  ambitious  young  waterfalls 
who  may  wish  to  win  the  poet's  as  well 
as  the  jiublic's  regard,  and  Ixj  over  asso- 
ciated with  the  fate  of  some  dear  mniden, 
as  beautiful  as  itself,  who  in  herdolirium 
would  rave  about  it,  as  did  the  old  arrow 
maker's  daughter: 

"  Hark  I  she  said,  I  hoar  a  ruf>hlng, 
Ifoar  a  roiirlnj.'  ar<1  n  nifliliie, 
Hear  the  Fall8  of  Miiincliiihu 
Callinf,'  to  iiu'  from  tho  distanco. 
No.  my  child,  wiid  old  Nnkoinis, 
"lis  the  wind  among  the  pini'-treoe." 


At  CincAOO  City,  near  the  line  of  tho 
Lake  Superior  Railroad,  there  i.s  a  well- 
kopt  hotel  and  accortimodations  for  par- 
ties visiting  the  several  beautiful  lakes 
in  this  viirinity.  Here  is  allbrded  good 
fishing,  boating,  and  hunting. 

In  addition  to  the  lakes  wliich  surround 
St.  Paul,  a  visit  to  tho  Dalles  on  the  St, 
Croix  River  and  Taylor'' s  Falls,  AO  miles 
distant  by  stage,  is  recommended  to  all 
travelers  fond  of  8ul)linie  river  scenery. 
Farther  up  tho  St.  Croix  good  trout 
flsliing  can  be  found — many  of  the  sninll 
streams  lowing  into  tho  river  on  tho 
Wisconsin  side  being  almost  alivo  with 
speckled  trout. 

The    Falls    of  St.    Aiitlioiiy, 

once  the  Ultima  Thide  of  the  north- 
western traveler,  are  not  so  striking  cr 
grand  as  one  might  expect  from  the 
description  given  by  the  early  e.xplorers 
of  Minnesota.  "There  is  no  prodigious 
height  for  the  water  to  leap  fium,  a.s  at 
Niagara,  but  the  rapids  arc  grander  and 
quite  as  extensive,  wiiile  their  jiovver  ia 
shown  by  the  large  slabs  of  stone  which 
lie  in  distorted  piles  along  the  shore, 
some  standing  up  on  end  like  giant  tomb- 
stones, others  piled  irregularly  as  if  try- 
ing to  crowd  away  from  the  fearful  force 
of  the  water.  The  retrogression  oi  tho 
falls   has    ')een   very    slow    until     tho 


!|}n1 


li 


230 


THE  UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 


Spring  of  1867  when  the  great  freshet, 
which  proved  so  disastrous  to  log-owners 
and  himber-merchants,  told  to  an  un- 
precedented extent  on  the  cataract  itself. 

"The  reason  of  this  is  clearly  under- 
stood. For  a  quarter  of  a  mile  above 
the  main  fall  the  bed  of  the  river  is 
composed  of  a  thin  stratum  of  limestone, 
supported  by  sandstone.  This  latter, 
being  soft  and  crumbling,  is  worn  away 
under  the  constant  action  of  the  water, 
thus  forming  a  sort  of  cave,  with  the 
slab  of  limestone  from  which  the  water 
falls  overhanging  it.  Of  course,  as  this 
excavation  grows  deeper,  the  limestone 
having  nothing  to  support  it,  breaks 
away,  and  thus  St.  Anthony's  Falls 
recede. 

"  As  a  mere  spectacle,  St.  Anthony's 
Falls  is  grander  by  moonlight  than  at 
any  other  time,  for  then  the  unpoetical 
and  unslghtlv  buildings  around  it  do 
not  obtrude  themselves,  while  the  noise 
and  dash  of  the  rapids  are  heard  and 
seen  to  perfection.  At  such  a  time  St. 
Anthony's  waters  present  an  overpower- 
ing idea  of  furious  strength,  and  one 
worthy  to  be  reniembered  along  with 
the  recollections  of  Niagara  itself.  A 
greater  contrast  to  the  gentle  beauty  of 
Minnehaha  it  would  be  impossible  to 
find;  and  yet  these  two  cataracts  are 
within  a  short  walking  distance  of  each 


other,  and  to  tourists  both  will  be,  for 
ages  to  come,  among  the  greatest  attrac- 
tions of  the  Northwest." 

Here  is  a  perpendicular  fall  of  about 
18  feet,  and  a  rapid  descent  of  46  feet, 
within  a  distance  of  one  mile. 


Rfinnesota,   or  St.  Pcter^s 

River,  one  of  the  largest  streams 
that  rises  in  the  State,  is  navigable 
for  steamers,  at  nioat  seasons  of  the 
year,  from  St.  Paul  to  Mankato,  148 
miles,  passing  St.  Peter  and  other  im- 
portant towns  on  its  banks.  In  good 
stages  of  water,  small  boats  run  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Yellow  Medicine,  238 
miles  from  its  mouth.  Beyond  this,  at 
a  slight  expense,  it  might  be  rendered 
navigable  to  Big  Stone  Lake,  where  a 
portage  of  about  three  miles  in  length 
separates  it  from  the  equally  navigable 
waters  of  the  Sioux  Wood,  which 
empties  into  the  Bed  River  of  the  North. 
The  Red  River  gives  over  300  miles 
of  navigable  water  on  the  western  boun- 
dary of  the  State,  before  entering  into 
British  America,  above  Lake  Winni- 
peg. 

Railroads  have  been  constructed  from 
St.  Paul,  Hastings  and  Winona,  which 
run  up  the  Valley  of  the  Minnesota 
River,  superseding  in  a  great  measure 
steamboat  traffic. 


^^T 


] 


BRIDGHNa  THES  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 


There  are  now  some  ten  or  twelve 
Railroad  Bridges  npanning  the  Misein- 
sippi  River  between  St.  Louis  and  St. 
Paul,  a  distance  of  820  miles. 

These  bridges,  although  provided  with 
draws,  or  an  opening  for  steamers,  more 
or  less  obstruct  navigation  on  this  noble 
stream.  They  vary  from  1,000  to  2,000 
feet  in  length,  from  shore  to  shore. 

The  principal  structure  at  St.  Louis, 
recently  finished,  is  thus  described : — 

The  Great  St.  Louis  Bridge. 

"The  iron  work  on  the  Keystone 
bridge  over  the  Mississippi,  at  St.  Louis, 
has  been  completed  amid  general  re- 
joicing. The  entire  work  will  be  speed- 
ily finished  and  that  important  structure 
thrown  open  for  business.  The  bridge 
connects  St.  Louis  with  Eaf-t  St.  Louis, 
in  the  State  of  Illinois.  The  river  at 
that  point  is  1,500  feet  wide.  It  is 
spanned  by  three  arches  of  500  feet 
length  inside  the  piers  on  which  they 
rest.  In  its  construction  'hrome  steel 
has  been  used.  It  has  a  tensile  strain 
double  that  of  ordinary  steel.  The  bridge 
is  arranged  for  railway  and  carriage 
tracks.  It  enters  St.  Louis  near  its 
business  centre.  There  is  no  draw  in  it 
for  the  passage  of  b<^ats,  and  as  it  is  but 
about  60  feet  above  high  water,  only  the 
smaller  class  of  steamers  can  pass  under 
it  without  lowering  their  chimneys.     It 


is  an  enormous  structiu'e.  It  is  claimed 
to  be  most  ini{)ortant,  or  at  least  the  most 
notable  railroad  bridge  in  the  world. 
Its  cost,  including  approaches  and  tun- 
nel, will  not  be  less  than  $10,000,000. 

I  As  a  feat  of  engineering  skill  it  takes 
the  very  first  rank.     But  great  and  re- 

I  markable  as  it  is  the  crv  is  raised  against 
it  that  it  obstructs  navigation.  The  lar- 
gest steamers  find  trouble  in  passing  un- 
der it,  and  plans  have  been  suggested 
for  a  remedy.  But  so  long  a;<  the  bridge 
stands — and  that  is  likely  to  l)e  many 
years — there  seems  to  be  no  other  course 
than  for  the  steamers  to  be  built  and 
fitted  with  machinery  for  tht  easjr  low- 
ering of  their  smoke-stacks.  It  is  evi- 
dent they  must  acknowledge  obeisance 
by  a  graceful  bow." 


BRIDGINa  DETROIT  RIVER. 
This  pro|K)»ed  impediment  to  the  out- 
let of  the  Great  Lakes  or  Inland  Seas 
should  never  be  allowed.  A  graceful 
bou),or  fatal  collision  with  railroad  pien 
are  both  objectionable,  alike  to  owners 
of  steamers  and  sail  vessels  navigating 
the  Detroit  or  St.  Clair  Rivers.  Here 
vessels  have  to  pass  at  all  hours  of  the 
day  and  night, — in  storm  and  in  calm 
weather, — and  be  subject  to  the  lofls  of 
both  cargo  and  vessel,  as  well  as  the  life 
of  passengers. 


231 


^ili 


^ii'ii 


:» 


it 


ill 


M 


» 


i 


If; 


00 


ii  II 


ST.   ANTROyY — MTNNBOPOLIS. 


233 


MiNNK-nA-nA. 

"IToro  the  Falls  of  A(lnne-ha-h« 
Flash  and  ^loam  ttnioiiK  the  oak  trees, 
Laugh  and  k-ap  into  tho  valley." 

The  City  of  St.  Anthony,  situated 
10  miles  north  of  St.  Paul,  hy  railroad, 
now  forniin};  [)art  of  Minneapolis,  i.s  a 
favored  locality.  Incorporatocl  in  IS.v'i, 
and  in  1870  contained  5,000  inhabitants. 
Here  are  nine  churches,  two  banks,  three 
hotels,  several  stores,  and  numerous 
manufacturing  establi.shraent8,  propelled 
by  water  power.  The  "St.  Anthony 
Falls  Water  Power  Company"  is  capable 
of  sawing  40,000,000  foet  of  lumber  an- 


nually. There  are  also  three  flour- 
ing nulls.a  paper  mill.tlve  saw-mills, 
machine  shop,  two  breweries,  and 
other  extensive  manufacturing  estab- 
lishments. The  University  of  the 
State  of  Minnesota  is  located  hero, 
on  an  eminence  overlooking  the  falls 
and  the  two  towns.  An  elegant  sus- 
I^ension  bridge,  erected  in  1855,  (120 
feet  long,  spanning  the  main  branch 
of  the  river  above  the  Falls,  connects 
the  city  with  Minneapolis.  The  St. 
Paul  and  Pacific  Railroad,  completed 
to  a  point  108  miles  northward,  now 
extends  from  St.  Paul  to  Melrose. 

9Iinnonpolie4,Minn.,thecapi- 
tal  of  Hennepin  comity,  is  delight- 
fully situated  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Mississippi,  at  the  Kalis  of  St.  An- 
thony, where  is  aflf)rded  one  of  the 
most  magnificent  water  powers  on 
the  continent.  Hero  are  14  flouring 
mills,  1  cotton  mill,  2  woollen  mills, 
1  paper  mill,  10  extensive  saw-mills, 
8  planing  mills,  (i  sash  and  blind  fac- 
tories, 2  iron  foundries,  machine 
shops  and  lath  and  shingle  mills  all 
using  water  power.  In  addition  to 
these  are  manufactured  ploughs,  wag- 
ons, furniture,  «&c. ;  2  foundries  and  the 
machine  shopsand  car  factory  of  the  Mil- 
waukee and  St.  Paul  Railway  (.'ompany. 
Tlio  Minneapohs  Water  Power  Compa- 
ny, and  the  St.  Anthony  Company,  have 
c<ombined  proj)ertie3  of  <)uantity  and  avail- 
ability unsurpassed  in  the  United  States. 
The  lineal  frontage  along  which  the  power 
can  bo  carried  and  applied  at  a  trifling 
cost,  so  as  to  supply  a  mill  with  power 
in  every  hundred  feet  of  its  course,  is 
over  15,000  feet.  The  value  of  such  a 
power,  as  well  as  the  amount  of  machin- 
ery it  is  destined  to  propel,  as  the  vast 
and  fertile  region  north  and  west  of  it 
becomes  settled,  can  hardly  bo  estimated. 


i 


H 


284 


THE   UPPER  laSSlSSIPPL 


Minneupol  is  hafl  become  a  fanhionable 
place  of  resort  for  invalid.^  aiul  seekers 
of  pleasure.  The  Nicollet  House  is  a 
popuhir  and  well-kept  hotel.  IJesides 
the  county  buildings,  Minenapolia  con- 
tains 3  national  banks,  8  churches,  4 
hotelp,nunierousHtores  and  store-houses, 
an  opera  house,  with  many  fine  private 
residences.  Population  in  1870,  18,060. 

The  piclnrcstiue  soouery  in  and  around 
these  two  cities  at  th(3  Falls,  their  topo- 
graphical beauty,  tlU)  Hno  hard  roads 
loading  in  idl  diroctioas,  the  charniirip 
lakoH  in  tlio  vicinity,  the  colubratud  Min- 
ne-fia-ha  Falls,  bi-iug  a  fow  miles  below 
Minneapolis  on  the  Fort  SnoUing  road, 
taken  togotlier  with  the  dry,  bracing  at- 
mospiicro  that  (iisHiiguishcs  Minnesota 
from  all  other  Western  States,  have  con- 
tributed to  draw  crowds  of  ploasure-seok- 
era,  travelers,  and  invalids  to  tliis  locality. 

Two  beautiful  lakes,  Harriot  and  Cid- 
houu,  lying  within  a  half  hour's  drive, 
and  Lake  Minnotonka,  12  miios  westward, 
are  places  of  constant  resort  in  summer. 
Those  lakes,  and  about  thirty  others  in 
the  country,  abounri  with  suntish,  bass, 
and  pickerel,  iw  also  the  woods  and  prai- 
ries with  the  usuid  varieties  of  game. 
The  old  Fort  Snclliug,  and  its  reservation 
of  10,000  acres,  is  situated  in  this  comi- 
ty, at  the  conrtuonce  of  the  Minnesota 
and  Mississippi  rivers.  The  Fort  is  now 
used  aa  a  rendezvous  for  troops  and  re- 
cruits. Although  once  abandoned  by 
the  Govermnont,  the  prospect  now  is  that 
it  will  be  permanently  retained  for  mili- 
tary purposes. 

The  St.  PaxUaTid  Pacific  Railroad  runs 
west  from  Minneapolis  to  TJreckinridge, 
.217  miles,  and  the  Chirm/o,  Milwaukee 
andSt,  Paid  i^ttirood  runs  south  through 
Minnesota  and  Wisconsin  to  Milwaukee 
and  Chicago,  connecting  with  railroads 
in  northern  Iowa.  A  railroad  also  ex- 
tends to  White  Bear  Lake,  14  miles. 


St.  Paul  and  Pacific  Railroad 
Route. 


( 


Manomin,  the  capital  of  Manomin 
county,  is  a  small  village  on  the  oast 
bank  of  Iho  Mississippi  river,  17  mile* 
north  of  St.  Paul  by  railroad  route. 

Anoka,  Miim.,  25  miles  north  of  St. 
Paul,  by  railroad,  is  the  county-seat  ol 
Anoka  county,  being  handsomely  situ 
ated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Mississip 
pi  river,  at  the  mouth  of  Millo  l,ac.  Rum 
river  lying  on  both  sides  of  tho  latter 
stream.  The  surface  of  tho  country  in 
hero  diversified,  and  tho  climate  highly 
salubrious ;  tho  soil  being  well  adapted 
to  agriculture.  Tho  natural  meadows 
aro  an  important  feature,  and,  taken  in 
connection  with  other  facilities  which 
tlse  place  afibrds,  make  it  partic\ilarly 
adapted  to  tho  raising  of  cattle  and  sheep. 
Hero  are  three  church  edifices,  two  ho- 
tels, several  stores,  and  about  1,000  in- 
habitants. 

Itaska,  Anoka  County,  Minn.,  is  a 
small  settlement  on  the  east  bank  of  tho 
Mississippi  river,  35  miles  from  St. 
Paul  by  railroad  route. 

Klk  Rn'Kii,  Minn.,  is  the  name  of  a 
village  situated  on  a  stream  of  tho  samo 
name,  half  a  mile  east  of  tho  Mississippi 
river,  distant  tO  miles  from  iSt.  Paul,  by 
railroad  route. 

Bio  Lakk,  Minn.,  tho  county-seat  of 
Sherburne  county,  BO  miles  north  of  St. 
Paul  by  railroad  route,  is  situated  about 
two  miles  oast  of  tho  Mississippi  river, 
containing  a  popidation  of  200  or  .300. 

St.  Cloud,  Minn.,  lying  on  the  west 
side  of  tho  Mississippi  river,  at  tho  foot 
of  tho  Sauk  Rapids,  is  the  capital  of 
Stearns  county,  74  miles  north  of  St. 
Paul  by  railroad  route.  This  may  be 
called  the  head  of  navigation  for  tho  river 
above  tho  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  bein^  on 
tho  direct  route  from  St.  Paul  to  the 


BATTK  BAPn>8— KOnTHERN  MINtTESOTA. 


286 


by 


Red  River  settlement  of  the  North.  A 
rai  IroacI  is  heiiig  constructed  to  run  from 
Sauk  KapidH  to  I'enihina,  connecting 
with  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad, 
benvfiting  thiw  whole  nection  of  country. 

The  villiige  now  containB  about  2,000 
inhabitants,  and  is  fast  increasing  in 
wealth  and  importance.  There  are  a  fine 
court-house  and  jail,  on©  bank,  United 
States  land-ofliee,  five  churches,  three 
hotels,  twelve  stores,  and  two  printing- 
ofiBcos. 

From  St.  Cloud  to  the  Red  River  is 
about  200  miles,  the  distance  being 
about  200  more  miles  to  Fort  Gary, 
British  America.  A  larpe  trade  is  car- 
ried on,  by  means  of  ox-carts  passing 
over  the  prairie,  including  tho  furs  and 
other  articles  belonging  to  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company. 

_  Sauk  IIapids,  Minn.,  lying  on  the  east 
Bide  of  the  Mississippi  River,  at  tho  head 
of  tho  rapids,  two  milen  above  St.  Cloud, 
is  tho  capital  of  Benton  County.  It  con- 
tains about  700  inhabitants,  2  churches, 
2  hotels,  2  stores,  and  manufacturing 
establishments.  Tho  St.  Paul  and  Pa- 
cific Railroad  runs  to  this  place  along  the 
east  bank  of  tlio  river,  llere  is  an  im- 
mense water-power,  created  by  the  Sauk 
Bapidt,  having  a  descent  in  half  a  mile 
of  about  15  feet,  where  a  dam  is  con- 
fltructcd. 

The  Mismsippi  River,  above  the  Sauk 
Rapids,  flows  through  a  level  country, 
interspersed  with  groves  of  timber  of  dif- 
ferent kinds,  having  a  width  of  about  100 
yards,  to  Crow  Wing,  40  miles  above. 
North  of  tho  latter  place,  pine  timber  of 
a  large  growth  is  found  in  abundance, 
the  lumbering  business  being  tho  princi- 
pal source  of  profit. 

Watab,  Benton  County,  Minn.,  80  miles 
above  St.  Paul,  lying  on  tho  oast  side  of 
the  Mississippi  River,  is  a  small  post  set- 
tlement, containing  about  150  inhabitants. 


Ltttlk  Falls,  Minn.,  100  miles  north 
of  St.  Paul,  is  tho  cai)ital  of  Morrison 
county,  where  are  a  line  water-power  and 
sriw-mills,  it  being  m  tho  region  of  a 
good  lumbering  section  of  country. 

Crow  Wmo,  Minn.,  is  tho  capita!  of 
Crow  Wing  eoimty,  situated  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  Mississippi,  120  miles  north 
of  St.  Paul.  This  is  an  important  post, 
where  is  located  the  Government  agency 
for  the  Chippewa  Indians,  and  commands 
a  considerable  Indian  trade.  A  Hrancli 
Railroad  is  being  constructed  to  extend 
from  Sauk  Rapids  to  Prainerd,  forrMug 
a  connection  with  the  Northern  Pacilic 
Railroad. 


Northern  ITIinncriota. 

The  Hi  stance  from  St.  Paul  to  Crow 
Wixo,  Minn.,  is  about  120  miles,  the 
Chippewa  Agency  being  seven  miles  above 
Crow  Wing,  on  Crow  Wing  river,  a  stream 
larger  than  tho  Mississippi  proper ;  it  is 
the  outlet  of  Otter  Tail  and  other  nume- 
rous lakes,  some  sixty  miles  west- 
ward. Tho  Indian  agent  for  the  Chip- 
pewa, Pembina,  and  Pillager  Indians  re- 
sitles  at  tho  above  agency.  The  agent 
makes  a  yearly  payment  to  tho  above  In- 
dians, usually  leaving  the  agency  about 
tho  first  of  October,  travels  west  to  Otter 
Tail  Lake,  tlience  north,  over  tho  old  Red 
rivor  trail,  to  Douglas,  Polk  county, 
Minn.,  situated  on  Red  Lake  river,  empty- 
ing into  the  Red  river  of  the  .North, 
about  forty  miles  west.  In  this  vicinity 
tho  payments  are  mado. 

Otter  Tail  Lakk  smd  the  surroimding 
chain  of  lakes  are  of  the  purest  wator, 
abounding  in  delicious  fish  of  different 
kinds.  Tlie  shores  are  pebbly,  surrounded 
by  hard-wood  timber,  tho  sugar  mapio 
tree  here  predominating,  from  which 
large  quanties  of  maple  sugar  are  annually 
manufactured.  The  soil  is  unusually  ricli, 
p<  odutiing  wild  grass  three  or  four  teei 


1 


286 


THE   ITPPER  MISSISSIPPL 


1  ' 


in  hoifjrlit.  The  principal  gnmo  loft  is 
wild  fowl  of  (lilTeront  kinds,  amonj?  which 
mny  bo  nameil  the  pruirio  chicken,  grouse, 
partridf^i's,  <luokH.  and  wild  goeso.  Deor, 
elk,  bear,  foxon,  badj^ors,  and  other  fur- 
bearing  animals,  horotoforo  numerous, 
arenowsp.irfo,  being  nearly  exterminated 
by  the  huliaiis.  who  are  export  huntsmen. 
The  healthy  influoiioo  of  this  section  of 
till)  country  is  uiirivaii'd,  it  being  a  lux- 
ury to  broatho  the  pure  air  of  tliia  region. 

A  few  years  since  a  resident  of  Mil- 
waukee, \ViH„  who  had  been  siitrering 
from  ill  health,  tending  to  consumption, 
Bt.irted  for  St.  Paul  and  journeyed  toward 
Crow  Wing,  along  the  oast  side  of  the 
Mississippi  river,  arriving  about  the  time 
of  the  leaving  of  the  United  States  agent 
and  his  party  for  the  interior,  the 
weather  being  then  cool  and  delight- 
ful. Joining  said  party,  and  partici- 
pating in  their  faro,  ho  made  the 
journey  to  Otter  Tail  Luke,  and  thenco  to 
K(!d  Lake  river,  on  horseback,  returning 
with  said  parly. 

During  this  trip  of  some  four  weeks, 
his  h(;alth  was  almost  entirely  restored, 
being  able  to  bear  almost  any  amount  of 
fatigue;  camping  out  in  the  open  air, 
huiiting,  and  lishing  as  circumstances 
would  permit. 

This  is  the  happy  oxpericnqp  of  hun- 
dreds of  invalids  who  have  tlvo  resolution 
to  visit  this  healtli- restoring  section  of 
coimtry,  where  fevers  and  consumption 
are  almost  entirely  unknown.  Even  the 
winter  months  are  endurable  and  healthy 
in  this  region,  extending  north  to  the 
British  settlement  near  Lake  Winnipeg, 
60'  north  latitude. 

Bufidio  and  other  largo  game  may  be 
found  west  of  Rod  river,  affording  wholo- 
Bomo  food,  wliile  wheat  and  vegetables 
are  raised  in  groat  abundance  wherover 
settlements  have  been  mado. 


IiitoroNting  to  ConsumptlTef. 

WHO  SHOCLD  00  TO   MI.VXE60TA  AND  WHO 
8H0nU>    NOT. 

Extract  from  a  letter,  dated,  St.  PacIi, 
Minn., 

"  It  is  not  the  object  of  your  correspond- 
ent to  court  any  argument  upon  the  rela- 
tive merits  of  a  northern  or  .southern  cli- 
mate for  the  cure  of  that  foil  destroyer  of 
human  life  and  happiness,  consumption, 
but  merely  to  give  his  experience  as  an  in- 
valid during  a  sojourn  of  several  mouths 
in  a  country  which  is  fast  becoming  one 
of  the  most  popular  resorts  for  invalids 
from  all  parts  of  the  Union.     Neither  do 
r  wish  to  bo  understood  as  claiming  for 
Minnesota  entire  immunity  from  disease, 
nor    that    the    climate    is  a    sovereign 
remedy  for  all  cases  of  consumption ;  but, 
from  careful  observation,  I  believe  I  am 
justified  in  assorting  tliat  there  is  no  lo- 
cality on  this  continent  so  exempt  from 
'  all  the  ills  that  flesh  is  heir  to'  as  this. 
The  dryness  of  the  atmosphere,  the  pe- 
culiar chariiotor  of  tho  soil,  the  almost 
total  absence)  of  fogs  and  moist  winds,  all 
contributo  to  render  tho  climate  ono  of 
unrivaled  salubrity. 

In  its  first  stages,  consumption  appears 
to  yield  readily  to  tho  peculiar  Influence 
of  the  climate ;  and,  even  in  tho  more  ad- 
vanced stages  of  tho  disease,  the  patient, 
by  a  continued  residence  in  this  country, 
finds  permanent  relief  and  comparative 
good  health.  I  find  that  three  classes  of 
cases  arrive  in  this  country  in  search  of 
relief:  1.  Those  slightly  aflfected,  who 
take  time  by  the  forelock,  get  well  in  a 
few  months,  and  return  to  their  homes 
perfectly  cured.  2.  Those  more  seriously 
affected,  who  never  fully  recover  tho  use 
of  their  lungs,  but  by  a  permanent  resi- 
dence in  Minnesota  enjoy  comparative 


KORTHERK  MINXESOTA. 


287 


good  hoftlth.  3.  Those  who  wait  until  it 
is  too  Into,  and  arrivo  lioro  ouly  to  linger 
a  few  wooks  aud  die  among  strungora. 

"  It  is  to  bo  regretted  that  the  rnajority 
of  the  invalids  wlio  arrive  hero  are  not  of 
the  first  cliias.  Unfortunately,  owing  to 
the  ignorance  of  physicians,  the  disease 
is  seldom  detected  in  its  first  stages ;  and 
it  i3  not  until  a  homorrliago  takes  place, 
or  tubercles  comiDcnco  to  soften,  that 
they  see  the  necessity  for  the  removal 
of  the  patient  to  a  moro  salubrious  cli- 
mato. 

"The  second,  or  predominating  class, 
are  scattered  all  over  tho  entire  State, 
from  tho  Iowa  lino  to  the  shores  of  Lake 
Superior.  Go  whore  you  will  through 
Minnesota  and  you  will  meet  persons,  ap- 
parently in  good  healtli,  who  could  not 
exist  two  years  under  tho  influence  of 
the  cold  moist  winds  of  the  Atlantic 
States.  Many  of  them  arrivo  hero  quite 
low,  but,  with  tho  help  of  a  good  consti- 
tution and  tho  poculiar  salubrity  of  tho 
climate,  they  manage  to  rally  an<l  enjoy 
tolerably  good  health.  In  one  or  two  in- 
stances which  camo  under  m}^  observa- 
tion, tho  patients  had  to  bo  removed  from 
the  steamboat  in  a  carriage,  and  several 
months  elapsed  before  any  visible  im- 
provement could  bo  noted;  but  finally 
the  patients  coratnonced  to  mend,  and 
the  clear,  bracing  atmosphere  of  winter 
soon  restored  them  to  health.  A  few 
Sundays  ago  we  buried  one  of  tho  oldest 
residents  of  this  city,  who  had  been  ill 
with  consumption  for  flftoen  years.  Ho 
had  been  sick  with  the  disease  three 
years  when  he  entered  the  State,  and  did 
not  expect  to  live  many  months ;  but  he 
rallied,  and  by  a  continued  residence 
in  the  country  managed  to  prolong  his 
existence  a  dozen  yer  /s.  Some  of  tho 
leaning  business  men  of  this  city,  men 
noted  for  their  enterprise  and  success  in 
Ufe,   belong  to  the  second  class,   and, 


although  to  all  appearnnco  in  tho  full 
pfjssossion  of  health,  tell  you  that  it 
would  be  impo98ii)lo  for  them  to  exist 
East. 

"Of  the  third  class  not  much  need  bo 
said.  They  never  ought  to  come  here, 
as  tho  fatigue  and  excitement  of  tho 
journey  only  tend  to  hasten  death. 
Some  die  on  thoir  way  up  the  river,  somo 
at  the  hotels  and  boarding-houses  b<,'foro 
they  have  been  doinicilod  among  ua 
a  fortnight,  and  others,  feeling  tJiat 
death  is  inevitable,  start  for  homo  be- 
fore they  have  boon  a  week  in  the 
country. 

"A  very  intelligent  gentleman  from 
New  York,  whoso  acquaintance  I  mado 
when  I  first  arrived  in  St.  Paul,  esti- 
mated that  about  three  out  of  every  ten 
persons  who  cAmo  here  afllicted  with 
iung  complaints  recovered  so  as  to  bo 
able  to  return  to  their  homos,  aud  that 
over  fifty  por  cent,  of  the  invalids  wero 
afTorded  permanent  relief.  My  inform- 
ant, who  is  an  invalid  himself,  has  spent 
three  years  in  the  State,  and,  Jilthough 
in  tho  enjoyment  of  apparent  good  liealtli, 
says  he  will  never  bo  able  to  live  in  his 
native  place  again.  Ho  has  therefore 
.sent  East  for  his  family,  and  intends 
going  into  business  here. 

"  It  would  bo  a  difficult  task  to  arrivo  at 
anything  like  the  approximate  number  of 
invalids  in  tho  State,  for  there  are  no 
statistics  on  the  subject,  but  it  is  safe  to 
estimate  them  by  thousands.  In  the 
summer  you  find  them  scattered  all  over 
tho  State,  amusing  themselves  by  fishing 
and  hunting.  Tho  attractions  in  this 
respect  aro  superior  to  anything  of  tho 
kind  in  the  United  States  perhaps.  Tho 
entire  surfaoe  of  tho  Stfite  is  dotted  with 
lakes,  varying  in  circumference  from  one 
mile  to  one  himdred,  which  abound  iu 
tho  largest  and  choicest  kind  of  fish. 
Pickerel,  weighing  from  twelve  to  fiftetia 


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238 


THE  UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 


pounds,  bass,  wall-eyed  pike  and  trout 
m  proportion  are  caught  in  large  quan- 
tities in  ail  the  lakes  and  rivulets. 
Trolling  on  the  lakes  is  especially  re- 
commended by  the  physicians  as  the 
most  fitting  exercise  for  invalids  who 
are  too  reduced  to  follow  the  more 
fatiguing  sport  of  gunning.  In  the 
Fall  of  the  year,  which  is  certainly  a 
delightful  season,  the  woods  abound 
with  deer,  partridges  and  quail,  while 
the  stubble  fields  furnish  the  Nimrod 
with  all  the  prairie  chickens  he  can 
carry  in  an  ordinary  sized  wagon. 
Geese  and  ducks  of  the  finest  flavor 
frequent  the  lakes  in  immense  flocks, 
and  afford  splendid  sport.  Occasion- 
ally you  stumble  upon  a  bear,  but  in- 
valids are  not  very  partial  to  Bruin 
as  a  general  thing,  and  usually  allow 
him  to  follow  the  bent  of  his  inclina- 
tion unmolested. 

"The  cost  of  living  in  this  far  off 
Western  country  is  by  no  means  as 
expensive  as  some  would  imagine. 
Board  at  the  best  hotels  in  St.  Paul 
can  be  procured  aa  cheap  as  at  the 
East,  and  in  the  country  towns  one 
can  live  very  comfortably  for  about 


five  or  six  dollars  a  weel .  As  winter 
sets  in,  the  invalids  all  flock  to  the 
towns,  where  they  can  spend  the  sea- 
son more  agreeably  than  they  can  in 
the  country.  Such  places  aa  St.  Paul, 
Minneapolis,  St.  Anthony,  St.  Cloud, 
Farrihault  and  Winona  are  crowded 
with  them,  and  the  citizens  derive  no 
little  profit  by  the  presence  of  such 
visitors.  The  pineries,  which  extend 
along  the  St.  Croix  river,  and  run  as 
far  north  as  Lake  Superior,  are  much 
frequented  by  consumptives.  A  belief 
is  prevalent  here  that  the  pine  emits  an 
odor  which  is  peculiarly  healing,  and 
highly  beneficial  for  invalids;  hence 
it  is  no  uncommon  thing  for  small 
parties  to  take  up  their  quarters  in  the 
wilderness,  and  spend  the  winter  there 
with  the  numerous  gangs  of  lumber- 
men engaged  in  felling  trees  and  haul- 
ing logs  to  the  banks  of  the  neighbor- 
ing creeks,  with  the  view  of  floating 
them  down  the  St.  Croix  i:i  the  Spring. 
Those  who  have  the  strength  and 
coirageUo  endure  this  wild  mode  of 
life  generally  experience  the  most 
beneficial  eflfects,  and  in  the  Spring 
are  enabled  to  return  fat  and  hearty." 


m 

t 

■ 

1 1 
i    " 

II 

BAILROADS  IN  MINNESOTA.— 1874. 


MILES. 


St.  Paul  and  Pacific*. — Main  Line  217 

Upper  Miss.  Branch 76 

Eed  Eiver  Branch* 

St.  Paul  and  Sioux  City 270 

St.  Paul  and  Stillwater 20 

Milwaukee  and  St.  Paul 324 

Chicago  and  St.  Paul 105 

Lake  Superior  and  Mississippi....  155 

Stillwater  Branch 12 

Minneapolis  Branch 13 

Hastings  and  Dakota* 74 

Winona  and  St.  Peter 326 

Southern  Minnesota 170 


MILKS. 


Minneapolis  and  St.  Louis'* 26 

Northern    Pacific*. — (Duluth    to 
Bismarck,  Dak.) 448 

Total  miles,  finished 1,913 

Several  other  Kailroads  are  pro- 
jected to  run  from  cities  and  towns  on 
the  Mississippi  River;  which,  when 
completed,  will  afford  great  facilities 
for  travelling,  and  the  transportation 
of  merchandise  and  agricultural  pro- 
ducts. 


*  Uuflniabed. 


i     ! 


CLIMATE  OF  THE  UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 


239 


liake  Snperior  and  mis- 
sUsippi  Railroad  and  its 
Branches.— This  much  needed 
connecting  link  between  the  navigable 
waters  of  the  Upper  Mississippi  and 
the  head  of  Lake  Superior,  155  miles 
in  length,  is  of  the  utmost  importance 
to  both  Canada  and  the  United  States. 
Branch  Roads  run  to  Stillwater  and 
Minneapolis.  It  is  now  completed, 
and  affords  an  uninterrupted  route 
of  travel  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico 
to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  The  dis- 
tance from  St.  Paul  to  New  Orleans, 
by  water,  is  about  2,000  miles,  and  the 
distance  from  the  head  of  Lake  Su- 
perior to  Quebec,  via  Toronto,  passing 
through  Georgian  Bay,  is  about  1,400 
miles — thus  shortening  the  distance 
about  400  miles  by  avoiding  Lakes 
Huron  and  Erie. 

This  international  and  inland  route, 
passing  through  the  most  fertile  region 
of  the  United  States  and  portions  of 
Canada,  is  destined  to  form  the  short- 
est and  most  desirable  through  line  of 
transit  from  North  America  to  Europe ; 
carrying  the  mineral,  agricultural,  and 
other  products  of  this  wide  extended 
region  of  country. 

This  great  route,  in  connection  with 
the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  for 
which  a  very  liberal  grant  of  land 
has  been  given  by  the  United  States 
Government,  ought  to  encourage  capi- 
talists both  in  America  and  Europe  to 
invest  their  surplus  means  so  as  to 
insure  their  early  completion. 


St,  Pan!  to  Fort  Garry.— 

Passengers  going  to  Red  River  from 
St.  Paul  can  go  by  way  of  the  Main 
Line  of  the  St.  Paul  and  Pacific  Bail- 
road' to  Breckinridge,  217  miles,  the 
present  terminus  of  the  road,  and  by 


team  and  steamboat  from  there  to  Moor- 
head  and  Fort  Garry  (300  miles).  To- 
tal distance,  500  miles.  Passengers 
going  by  way  of  St.  Cloud  can  proceed 
Dy  railroad  to  Melrose,  108  miles,  and 
thence  by  stage  to  the  Junction  of  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railroad  at  Glyndon. 
Then  proceed  by  railroad  and  steam- 
boat to  Fort  Garry.  A  Line  of  Steam- 
ers are  now  ninning  on  the  Red  River 
of  the  North,  affording  a  speedy  mode 
of  conveyance  from  St.  Paul  and  Du- 
luth. 

The  completion  of  the  Branch  of  the 
St.  Paul  and  Pacific  Railroad  to  Pem- 
bina will  afford  still  greater  facilities 
in  order  to  reach  Northern  Minnesota 
and  Manitoba. 


Climate  of  the  Upper  Mis- 
sissippi Valley.— "The  climate 
of  the  plains,"  says  J.  W.  Foster, 
"exhibits  some  peculiarities  deserving 
of  notice, — such  as  the  purity  of  the 
air;  the  cloudless  skies  during  certain 
seasons,  giving  to  the  landscape  such 
Bluirply-defined  outlines;  the  dewless 
nights;  the  illusive  phantoms  of  the 
mirage;  and  the  feeling  of  vastness 
which  impresses  every  beholder,  as  he 
stands  on  some  high  swell,  and  in  every 
direction,  sees  the  surface  stretched 
out  like  a  hemisphere. 

"As  in  the  distant  north,  there  is 
a  mingling  of  Spring  and  Summer,  so 
here  the  Summer  is  protracted  far 
into  Autumn.  This  is  the  most  de- 
lightful season  of  the  year,  character- 
ized by  an  absence  of  severe  rain- 
storms, with  a  cool,  bracing  atmos- 
phere, BO  gratifying  to  the  physical 


240 


THE  UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 


system  that  man  exults  'in  the  intense 
consciousness'  of  his  existence. 

"That  delicious  season  known  as 
'Indian  Summer,'  is  often  prolonged 
into  December,  when  a  calm,  soft, 
hazy  atmosphere  tills  the  sky,  through 
which,  day  after  day,  the  sun,  shorn 
of  his  beams,  rises  and  sets  like  a 
globe  of  fire.  This  peculiarity  is 
observed  as  far  north  as  Lake  Supe- 
rior, but  is  more  conspicuous  and  pro- 
tracted in  Iowa  and  Nebraska,  but 
does  not  extend  south,  into  the  lower 
latitudes  of  the  United  States. 

"Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  the  Mis- 
sissippi Valley  possesses  a  great  di- 
versity of  climate;  and  this  is  natu- 
rally to  be  inferred,  when  we  consider 
that  it  extends  through  twenty  degrees 
of  latitude,  and  that  its  western  rim, 
at  many  points,  rises  into  the  region 
of  perpetual  snow,  so  that  the  traveller 
may  elect  whether  to  breathe  the  pure 
and  bracing  air  of  the  motmtains,  or 
the  soft  and  balmy  air  wafted  from  the 
Tropics."         

In  reference  to  the  Climatology  of 
the  Valley  of  the  Red  River  of  the 
North,  and  the  surrounding  region, 
Captain  Paliser,  accompanied  by  Dr. 
Hector,  as  geologist,  in  their  report 
of  the  Saskatchewan  country,  and  of 
the  region  lying  between  Lake  Win- 
nipeg and  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which 
are  embraced  in  a  warm  belt  extend- 
ing southward,  state  there  is  an  area 
of  millions  of  acres  of  fertile  soil, 
where  the  Winters  are  comparatively 
mild,  and  where  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company   have  produced  every  crop 

frown  m  the  north-western  States, 
n  the  Pembina  settlement,  on  the 
49th  parallel,  we  know  that  for  years 
agriculture  has  been  successfully  pro- 
secuted. 


"  In  explanation  of  these  phenome- 
na, it  may  be  said  that  the  Rocky 
Mountains  attain  their  highest  eleva- 
tion south  of  the  40th  parallel,  and  as 
prolonged  northward,  they  drop  down 
and  become  merged  in  hills  of  moder- 
ate elevation.  Through  this  depres- 
sion, it  is  believed  that  the  warm 
breath  of  the  Pacific,  brought  by  the 
southwesterly  winds,  flows,  until  it  is 
met  by  the  cooler  currents,  which  pre- 
vail over  the  eastern  slope  of  the  great 
valley.  The  efl'ect  of  this  flow  is  to 
modify  the  vigor  of  the  climate  on  the 
eastern  slope  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
as  far  up  even  as  Athabasca  and  the 
Assinniboine,  and  to  render  subservient 
to  agriculture  a  region  corresponding 
in  latitude,  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  with 
the  inhospitable  wastes  of  Labrador. 


liakes,  RiTers  and  Water- 
Falls   of  Minnesota.  —  This 

health-restoring  region  owes  its  purity 
of  atmosphere,  in  a  great  degree,  to 
the  numerous  lakes  and  lovely  streams 
which  abound  in  almost  every  section 
of  the  State.  The  Lakes  in  the  vicinity 
of  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis,  as  well 
as  those  on  the  line  of  the  Lake  Supe- 
rior and  Mississippi,  and  St.  Paul  and 
Pacific  Railroads,  are  easy  of  access, 
and  deserve  a  particular  description. 

Lake  Como  3  miles  north-west  of 
St.  Paul,  is  a  most  lovely  sheet  of 
water,  surrounded  for  the  most  part  by 
cultivated  grounds.  It  is  approached 
by  a  good  carriage  road,  being  very 
frequently  visited  during  warm  wea- 
ther. Here  are  two  or  three  public 
houses  for  the  accommodation  of  visi- 
tors, where  may  be  obtained  row-boats 
and  fishing  tackle.  Ten  pound  picke- 
rel are  not  unfrequently  taken  from 
its  waters. 


HEAD  WATERS  OF  THE   MISSISSIPPI   RIVER. 


241 


Lake  Phalon,  3  miles  north  of  St. 
Paul,  on  the  line  of  the  Lake  Superior 
and  Mississippi  Kailroad,  is  another 
lovely  sheet  of  water  from  which  is 
obtained  a  supply  of  pure  water  for 
the  city.  Bald  Eagle  Lake,  a  few 
miles  beyond,  is  another  attractive 
sheet  of  water.  Here  is  afforded  fine 
amusement  for  the  angler  or  sports- 
man. 

Bass  Lake,  Lake  Johanna,  Vad- 
NAis  Lake,  and  several  other  small 
Lakes,  lying  from  6  to  10  miles  north 
of  St.  Paul,  are  all  worthy  of  a  visit, 
as  they  abound  with  fish  and  wild 
game. 

White  Bear  Lake,  12  miles  north 
of  St,  Paul,  on  the  line  of  the  Lake 
Superior  and  Mississippi  Railroad,  is 
a  favorite  place  of  resort  for  tourists 
seeking  health  and  pleasure.  This  is 
also  a  most  popular  Summer  drive  for 
the  citizens  of  St.  Paul  aa  well  as 
Btrangers.  No  idea  of  the  beauty  of 
the  Lake,  with  its  graceful  and  shaded 
shores,  can  be  given  to  one  who  has 
not  witnessed  its  lovely  features.  Here 
are  two  or  three  well-kept  hotels,  and 
plenty  of  row  and  sail  boats  for  the 
accommodation  of  visitors.  There  are 
lovely  groves  for  pleasure  or  picnic 
parties  adjoining  the  Lake. 

A  cluster  of  small  Lakes,  lying  west 
of  St.  Paul  and  south  of  Minneapolis, 
emptying  their  pure  waters  into  Min- 
ne-ha-ha  Creek,  are  all  lovely  sheets 
of  water.  They  are  known  by  the 
names  Amelia,  Mother,  Rice,  Calhoun, 
Harriet,  Cedar,  Christmas,  Diavxond, 
and  Lake  of  the  Isles.  They  are  all 
readily  reached  from  St.  Paul  or  Min- 
neapolis by  carriage  roads.  Lakes 
Calhoun  and  Harriet,  3  or  4  miles 
from  Minneapolis,  are  the  most  fre- 
quented. Here  are  well-kept  hotels, 
and  several  fine  country  residences. 


Cedar  Lake,  3  miles  west  of  Min- 
neapolis, lies  on  the  line  of  the  St. 
Paul  and  Pacific  Kailroad,  and  is 
easily  approached  by  rail  from  St. 
Paul  or  Minneapolis.  Here  is  a  pub- 
lic house  called  the  "  Invalid's  Home." 

Crystal  Lake,  Twin  Lakes, 
and  other  small  bodies  of  water  lie 
north-west  of  Minneapolis, — all  aflbrd- 
ing  delightful  excursions  during  warm 
weather. 

The  above  Lakes,  in  connection  with 
Lake  Minnetonka  and  the  far-famed 
Falls  of  Minne-ha-ha,  situated  5  miles 
below  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  rend- 
ers St.  Paul  and  its  vicinity,  next  to 
Quebec,  one  of  the  most  interesting 
portions  of  America. 

All  these  beauties  of  Nature,  sur- 
rounded by  a  most  delightful  atmos- 
phere, can  be  easily  reached  by  rail 
or  private  carriage,  starting  from  St. 
Paul  or  Minneapolis. 


16 


If  cad  Waters  of  the  Mls- 

BiHHippi  IliTer.— From  a  recent 
purvey  of  the  Uj»per  Mississippi,  it 
appears  that  steamboat  navigation  is 
afibrded  for  upwards  of  six  hundred 
miles  above  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony, 
by  means  of  three  locks  overcoming 
the  Sauk  Kapids,  the  Little  Falls,  and 
French  Rapids,  near  the  mouth  of 
Rabbit  river;  terminating  at  Poke- 
goma  Falls  in  about  47°  30'  N.  lat. 
Above  these  falls  boat  navigation  is 
continued  to  Leach  Lake  and  Lake 
Winnebagoshish,  one  hundred  and 
forty  miles  further;  these  being  the 
two  largest  of  the  many  Lakes  from 
which  this  noble  river  takes  its  rise. 
About  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
west  of  Lake  Winnebagoshish  is  situ- 
ated Itasca  Lake,  the  head  source  of 
the  Mississippi. 


242 


THE  UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 


The  river,  from  the  Falls  of  St. 
Antlioiiy  to  Sauk  Rdpids,  80  miles, 
was  successfully  navigated  before  the 
completion  of  the  St.  Taul  and  Pacilic 
Eailroad.  There  is  a  company  formed 
to  build  a  steamboat  and  barges,  to  be 
placed  upon  this  reach  of  the  river. 
From  Sauk  Rapids  to  Little  Falls 
there  is  another  navigable  reach  of 
water;  with  a  dam  and  a  lock,  with 
a  lift  of  fourteen  feet,  it  would  connect 
the  lower  with  the  upper  reach.  The 
river  through  the  largest  part  of  this 
reach,  above  Little  Falls,  has  a  good 
depth  of  water  and  clear  channel. 
French  Eapids,  near  the  mouth,  of 
Kabbit  Eiver,  are  the  most  difficult  to 
overcome. 

Fort  Ripley,  Crow  Wing,  and 
Brainehd,  where  crosses  the  North- 
ern Pacific  Railroad,  are  all  landings 
and  pi  aces  of  interest ;  the  latter,  no 
doubt,  is  destined  to  become  an  im- 
portant railroad  station,  being  situated 
about  100  miles  west  o(  Lake  Superior. 

There  are  very  few  islands  between 
Crow  Wing  and  Pine  River,  and  from 
thence  to  Pokegoma,  nith  the  excep- 
tion of  Three-Mile  Rapids,  three  miles 
below  Pokegoma.  There  is  no  obstruc- 
tion to  steamboat  navigation  during 
the  entire  season,  the  river  being  deep 
and  narrow,  with  a  moderate  current. 
Tlure  are  several  places  where  cut-offs 
could  be  made  at  very  slight  expense, 
that  would  save  miles  of  distance 
round  by  the  present  channel.  The 
entire  distance  from  *he  Falls  of  St. 
Anthony  to  Pokegoma  Falls,  by  the 
windings  of  the  river,  is  estimated  at 
six  hundred  and  seventy-five  miles. 

Above  PoIcegoTna  Falls,  navigation 
is  afforded  to  the  Chippewa  Agency,  on 
Leach  Lake,  and  on  other  tributaries 
of  the  Mississippi,  extending  for  260 
miles ;  thus,  altogether,  affording  about 


900  miles  of  navigation  above  the  Falls 
of  St.  Anthony,  extending  through  a 
deeply  interesting  section  of  country. 

Tlie  numerous  Lakes  north  and  west 
of  Crow  Wing  are  described  as  being 
most  beautiful  sheets  of  water,  abound- 
ing with  fish  of  a  fine  fiavor.  Otter 
Tail  Lake,  about  50  miles  west  of  Crow 
Wing,  on  the  line  of  the  Korthern 
Pacific  Railroad,  is  surrounded  by  a 
healthy  and  fruitful  section  of  coun- 
try, afibrding  a  delightful  resort  during 
warm  weather. 

It  is  said  that  a  canal  could  be  con- 
structed to  connect  the  large  Lakes  at 
the  source  of  the  Mississippi  river  with 
the  Red  River  of  the  North,  passing 
through  Red  Lake  and  Red  Lake 
River — flowing  into  the  latter  stream. 
If  this  was  accomplished,  and  locks 
constructed  on  the  Mississippi,  an  in- 
land navigation  would  be  afforded  from 
Lake  Winnipeg  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 


Trip  to  Pokegoma  Falls. 

The  Head  of  Navigation  on  the  Mis« 
sissipi'i  River. 

To  the  Editors  of  the  St.  Paul  Pioneer. 
July,  1870. 

As  some  of  your  readers  of  the 
Pioneer  might  be  glad  to  know  some- 
thing more  in  regard  to  the  first  trip 
of  the  new  steamer  Pokegoma,  from 
Little  Falls  to  Pokegoma  Falls,  a  dis- 
tance of  three  hundred  miles,  I  will 
give  you  a  detailed  account. 

After  the  steamer  left  Little  Falls,  115 
miles  above  St.  Paul,  it  proceeded  along 
up  the  river  to  Belle  Prairie.  There 
the  people  turned  out  en  masse,  and 
came  to  the  bank  of  the  river  to  see 
the  river  king,  the  steamer  Pokegoma. 

After  leaving  Belle  Prairie,  we  passed 
along  up  the  river  through  a  beau- 


TRIP  TO  POKEGOMA  FALLS. 


243 


tiful  country,  not  much  settled.  In  a 
short  time  we  arrived  in  sight  of  Fort 
Ripley,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  mili- 
tary outposts  in  the  country.  The 
old  flag,  the  stars  and  stripes,  was 
floating  at  masthead.  As  we  neared 
the  Fort  the  commanding  officer  came 
to  the  bank  of  the  river  with  a  six- 
pounder  and  tired  a  salute  of  five  guns. 
On  our  arrival  at  Ckow  Wing,  140 
miles  above  St.  Paul,  the  people  as- 
sembled on  the  landing,  and  tired  a 
salute  with  small  arms,  waved  flags, 
and  made  many  demonstrations  of  joy. 
On  Friday  night,  the  24th  day  of 
June,  the  people  of  Crow  Wing  gave 
a  ball,  in  honor  of  the  evefat,  at  the 
Whipple  House,  which  was  free  to  tlie 
Captain  and  crew  of  the  steamer. 

The  night  passed  pleasantly,  and 
early  in  the  morning,  on  Saturday,  the 
25th  day  of  June,  we  started  for  the 
boat  to  get  ready  for  our  trip  to  Poke- 
goma  Falls.  Everything  was  soon 
ready,  and  we  passed  along  up  the 
river  to  French  Eapids,  through  a 
country  covered  with  a  little  white 
pine,  some  Norway  and  black  pine, 
with  a  poor  soil.  Further  up,  towards 
the  mouth  of  the  Big  Willow,  the  bot- 
tom land  along  the  river  is  good  and 
covered  with  rushes.  Just  below  the 
mouth  of  the  Big  Willow,  some  two 
or  three  miles,  is  the  Northern  Pacific 
Railroad  crossing.  We  found  at  the 
Kailroad  crossing  three  or  four  large 
tents,  filled  with  stores  belonging  to  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Company. 

On  our  arrival  at  Sandy  Lake,  the 
citizens  and  natives  fired  a  salute,  with 
small  arras,  and  the  old  flag  was  dis- 
played at  the  masthead.  All  seemed 
flad  to  see  the  river  king,  and  many 
ndians  came  on  board  and  inspected 
the  boat,  closely,  and  said  it  was  the 
largest  canoe  they  ever  saw. 


After  leaving  Sandy  Lake,  going 
up  the  river  about  seven  miles,  we 
stopped  to  wood,  where  a  gentleman 
by  the  name  of  Vergen  was  getting 
out  square  timber.  Here  we  put  on 
for  wood  all  the  score-blocks  we  could 
find.  They  were  Norway  pine,  and 
burned  well. 

After  getting  through  wooding  we 
passed  along  uj»  the  river  by  the  mouths 
of  Swan  river,  Split-Hand  and  Prairie 
rivers.  Six  miles  up  the  Prairie  river 
is  the  finest  iron  mines  in  the  world ; 
not  worked  yet.  About  one  mile 
above  the  mouth  of  Prairie  river  re- 
sides an  Indian  chief,  by  the  name 
of  Rabbit,  who  has  adopted  the  habits 
and  customs  of  civilization,  living  in 
a  good  log  house,  owning  two  yoke  of 
oxen,  and  also  farming  quite  exten- 
sively. He  too  hoisted  the  flag  on 
the  approach  of  the  steamer.  On 
Monday,  the  27th  day  of  June,  at 
sunset,  we  arrived  at  the  foot  of  Long 
Rapids,  the  boat  landed,  and  Captain 
Charles  R.  Riggs  went  on  shore  with 
the  line,  and  made  fast  the  second 
steamboat  that  ever  ascended  the  Mis- 
sissippi river  to  this  point. 

On  Tuesday,  the  28th  day  of  June, 
Captain  Houghton  and  several  others, 
with  your  correspondent,  took  a  bat- 
teau  and  went  up  the  river  some  three 
miles  to  visit  the  celebrated  Falls  of 
Pokegoma,  situated  415  miles  above 
St.  Paul. 

We  found  at  the  Falls  a  beautiful 
sheet  of  water,  about  sixty  feet  wide, 
pouring  over  a  solid  ledge  of  granite 
rock,  at  an  angle  of  about  45  degrees. 
The  fall  at  this  place  is  about  eleven 
feet,  with  the  river  falling  fast  below; 
so  there  is  about  twenty-two  feet  fall 
within  ten  rods.  On  the  west  side  of 
th'^  river  is  a  heavy  body  of  pine 
(white) ;   on  the  east  bank   is   hard 


^ 

ri 

■  f 


..  ■ 


244 


THE  UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 


wood  timber,  but  it  has  been  cut  off 
by  the  claimants  in  days  gone  by,  so 
there  is  about  eight  or  ten  acres  of 
land  cleared.  We  found  on  this  cleared 
land,  blueberries,  red  raspberries, 
strawberries,  and  wintergreen  berries. 
After  looking  at  the  Falls,  and  eating 
what  berries  we  wanted,  some  of  us 
tried  fishing,  but  without  much  suc- 
cess, as  the  fish  did  not  feel  inclined 
to  bite.  At  about  eleven  o'clock  A.  M. 
we  all  embarked  in  our  batteau  and 
returned  to  the  steamer;  and,  imme- 
diately after  dinner,  steam  was  got  up, 
and  the  steamer  was  turned  round  and 
headed  down  stream,  homeward  bound. 
After  two  days  and  a  half  hard  run- 
ning we  arrived  at  Crow  Wing,  all 
tired,  and  glad  to  see  the  city  on  the 
border  of  civilization. 

Thi3  people  living  on  the  Missis- 
sippi river,  and  its  tributaries  above 
Little  Falls,  are  anxiously  looking 
forward  to  the  time  when  they  will 


ship  all  their  grain,  by  boats,  *■  ♦'•<? 
crossing  of  the  Northern  Pacific.  *t»i»i- 
road  on  the  Mississippi  river,  thence 
by  rail  to  Duluth,  and  then  down  the 
great  Lakes  to  the  sea-board. 

The  country  on  the  Upper  Missis- 
sippi river  above  Crow  Wing,  is  a 
timbered  country,  rather  low  and 
marshy — adapied  to  raising  grass — a 
fine  stock  country,  on  account  of  its 
immense  rush  beds  or  bottoms,  with 
a  fertile  soil ;  vast  iron  mines ;  inex- 
haustible pineries,  and  white  cedar 
swamps;  and,  with  the  water-power 
at  Pokegoma — which  is  unsurpassed 
by  any  in  the  State — will,  when  pro- 
perly drained  and  dyked,  be  as  rich 
a  country  as  Holland ;  and,  ere  long, 
it  will  be  filled  up  and  settled  with 
the  hardv  sons  of  toil  from  Norway 
and  Sweden,  and  be  made  to  bud  and 
blossom  like  the  rose. 


RIVERS  AND  LAKES  OP  CENTRAL  NORTH  AMERICA. 


■5      •'■ 


The  Eiver  and  Lake  System  of  that 
portion  of  North  America,  comprised 
within  the  United  States  and  Canada, 
or  the  British  Possessions,  is  of  the 
most  grand  and  useful  character.  It 
embraces  three  distinct  basins  or  val- 
leys; that  of  the  Mississippi,  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  the  Saskatchewan  and 
Red  River  of  the  North.  The  waters 
flowing  through  these  different  valleys, 
all  take  their  rise  in  the  immediate 
neighborhood  of  each  other,  between 
the  46th  and  48th  parallels  of  latitude, 
— the  table-lands  in  Northern  Minne- 
sota, elevated  from  1,200  to  1,500  feet 
above  the  ocean,  bein^  the  fountain- 
head  of  all  the  above  gigantic  streams, 
if  w.^  except  the  Saskatchewan. 


The  Missouri  river — a  tributary  of 
the  Mississippi — rises  far  to  the  west, 
in  the  region  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
uniting  with  its  mother-stream  mid- 
way in  its  flow  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 
The  above  stream  drains  an  immense 
extent  of  country,  forming,  in  part, 
a  system  of  itself. 

The  two  great  streams  of  commerce, 
the  Mississippi  and  the  St.  Lawrence, 
— including  the  Gieat  Lakes,  now 
united  by  a  hand  of  iron — afford  the 
longest  line  of  water  communication 
on  the  globe — altogether  amounting  to 
upwards  of  16,000  miles  of  inlar.  i  navi- 

fation,  extending  from  the  Gi'lf  of 
lexico  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence, 
with    numerous    tributaries    running 


RIVEBS  AND  LAKES  OF  CENTRAL  NORTH   AMERICA. 


24ft 


from  the  Alleghaiiies  on  the  east  and 
the  Rocky  Mountains  on  the  west. 

This  grand  River  and  Lake  System 
combined,  lies  almost  wholly  within  the 
Temperate  Zone,  embracing  an  area  of 
over  2,500,000  st^uare  miles, — of  which 
2,000,000  square  miles  may  be  said  to 
belong  to  the  Mississippi  Valley,  ex- 
tending through  twenty-three  degrees 
of  latitude  and  thirty  degrees  of  lon- 
gitude. Such  an  extensive  region  of 
fertile  land  is  not  to  found  in  any 
other  part  of  the  habitable  globe. 

The  Red  River  of  the  North,  the 
Saskatchewan  and  other  streams,  flow- 
ing into  Lakes  Manitoba  and  Winni- 
peg, drain  a  large  region  of  country, 
the  waters  finding  their  outlet  through 
Nelson  River  into  Hudson  Bay.  This 
great  valley,  running  through  ten  de- 
grees of  latitude  and  twenty  degrees 
of  longitude,  possesses  a  Siberian  Sum- 
mer,— bringing  forth  cereals  and  vege- 
tables in  great  abundance  for  the  sus- 
tenance of  man  and  beast. 

The  Mississippi  takes  its  rise  in  Lake 
Itasca,  and  other  small  Lakes  lying 
near  the  47th  parallel.  At  first  its 
course  is  circuitous,  nmning  eastward 
through  numerous  lakes  and  expan- 
sions, when  its  course  inclines  south- 
ward to  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony, 
afibrding  stretches  of  navigable  waters 
for  several  hundred  miles.  From  be- 
low the  above  Falls,  or  the  mouth  of 
the  Minnesota  river,  at  Fort  SnelHng, 
it  affords  uninterrupted  navigation  to 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  a  distance  of  up- 
wards of  two  thousand  miles. 

Prof.  Foster  says, — "the  sources 
of  the  Upper  Mississippi  are  among 
the  great  forests  of  conifers,  white 
birches  and  aspens — subarctic  types — 
which  continue  north,  but  dwarfed  in 
stature,  until  the  limits  of  arborescent 
vegetation  are  reached ;  and  its  mouth 


is  in  the  region  of  the  orange,  the  mag- 
nolia, and  even  the  palm — thus  ap- 
proaching the  verge  of  tropical  forms. 
A  navigable  river,  flowing  through  a 
region  so  diversified  in  climate  and 
productions,  can  not  but  become  the 
source  of  a  vast  inland  commerce." 

The  Upper  Mississinpi,  above  its 
confluence  with  the  Missouri  river, 
for  eight  hundred  miles,  is  a  grand 
and  lovely  stream  ;  the  channel  being 
about  half  a  mile  in  width,  with  nume- 
rous islands  which  spread  out  the  bot- 
tom lands  often  for  several  miles. 
Above  Dubuque  the  famed  bluffs  ap- 
pear, and,  alternately,  on  both  sides  of 
the  stream  until  the  mouth  of  the  St. 
Croix  is  reached. 

Lake  Pepin  is  an  expansion  of  the 
water,  being  about  twenty-five  miles  in 
length  and  three  miles  wide.  Here  is 
witnessed  some  of  the  most  grand  river 
scenery  imaginable,  while  the  sur- 
rounding atmosphere  is  of  the  most 
bracing  and  healthy  character. 

The  Lower  Mississippi,  "when  in 
flood,  extends  to  a  width  of  twenty  or 
thirty  miles,  and  the  surplus  waters 
find  their  way  to  the  ocean  through 
almost  interminable  swamps.  The  or- 
dinary channel,  from  a  half  to  one 
mile  in  width,  is  marked  by  an  outline 
of  woods,  presenting  a  great  sameness 
of  an  uninteresting  character.  As  the 
flood  recedes  it  leaves  behind,  in  the 
bottom  lands,  a  sediment  as  fine  and 
fertilizing  as  the  mud  of  the  Nile." 

St.  Louis  River,  forming  the  head 
waters  of  Lake  Superior,  takes  its  rise 
on  about  the  48th  parallel  of  latitude, 
almost  due  north  of  its  outlet  into 
Superior  Bay.  It  drains  a  valley  dis- 
tinct from  the  above  Lake,  passing 
through  a  wilderness  region  of  country 
above  the  Dalles  of  the  River,  near 
Fond   '     Lac,  here  having  a  fall  of 


246 


THE  UPPER   MISSISSIPPI. 


m 


i  ...*'= 


about  400  feet  within  the  distance  of 
eight  or  ten  miles. 

Lakes  Superior,  Huron,  Erie  and 
Ontario,  form  a  Buccession  of  basins 
through  which  the  accumulated  waters 
flow,  being  increased  by  Lake  Michi- 
gan. The  Rivers  uniting  this  great 
chain  of  Lakes  are  the  St.  Mary,  St. 
Clair,  Detroit  and  Niagara.  The  St. 
Lawrence,  proper,  commencing  at  the 
outlet  of  Lake  Ontario,  where  com- 
mences the  "  Thousand  Islands."  On 
its  onward  course  toward  tide-waters, 
above  Quebec,  it  has  a  descent  of  234 
feet,  while  Lake  Superior  stands  ele- 
vated 600  feet  above  the  ocean.  In 
an  extended  view  it  may  be  said  to 
be  2,000  miles  in  length,  before  dis- 
charging its  waters  into  the  Gulf  of 
St.  Lawrence. 

This  noble  stream,  unlike  the  Mis- 
sissippi, never  overflows  its  banks, 
neither  does  it  pass  through  any  stag- 
nant waters  or  swamps,  but  flows  on- 
ward as  a  pure  and  healthy  stream, 
widening  to  one  hundred  miles  or  up- 


wards before  passing  tlie  island  of 
Anticosti. 

The  St.  Lawrence  if  thrown  open 
to  the  free  commerce  of  the  world, 
from  the  45th  parallel  to  the  ocean, 
will  soon  form  the  main  artery  of 
trade  between  America  and  Europe. 

The  Bed  River  of  the  North  takes  its 
rise  in  Lake  Travers,  46°  N.  hit.,  and 
fl(>ws  northward  into  Lake  Winnipeg, 
a  distance  of  about  400  miles,  passing 
through  a  rich  agricultural  section  of 
country.  The  Saskatchewan  rises  in  the 
foot-hills  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  of 
British  America,  and  flows  eastward 
into  Lake  Winnipeg.  This  great  val- 
ley is  rich  in  minerals,  with  a  fruitful 
soil,  susceptible  of  sustaining  a  dense 
population. 

The  separate  system  of  rivers  flow- 
ing into  Lake  Winnipeg,  and  through 
Nelson  River  into  Hudson  Bay,  are, 
ere  long,  destined  to  be  alive  with 
commerce,  linding  an  outlet  to  the 
Ocean  through  Hudson's  and  Davis* 
Straits. 


RAIN-PALL  IN  THE  UPPER  LAKE  REGION. 


From  Rain-Charts  recently  issued 
by  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  it  ap- 
pears that  during  the  Winter  montm, 
(December,  Jaiuiary  and  February,) 
that  from  4  to  6  inches  of  water,  (rain 
or  snow)  falls  in  the  Lower  Peninsula 
of  Michigan ;  from  6  to  10  inches  falls 
in  the  Upper  Peninsula — the  largest 
amount  between  Marquette  and  Ke- 
weenaw Point — while  but  4  inches 
falls  between  Bayfleld  and  Duluth, 
situated  at  the  west  end  of  Lake  Supe- 
rior, and  but  2  inches  of  moisture  falls 
between  St.  Paul  and  Crow  Wing,  on 
the  Upper  Mississippi. 

During  the  Summer  months,  (June, 
July  and  August,)  10  inches  of  rain 
falls  in  the  Lower  Peninsula  of  Michi- 


gan ;  8  inches  in  the  Upper  Peninsula, 
near  Keweenaw  Point,  and  10  inches 
between  Bayfield  and  Duluth,  while  12 
inches  falls  in  the  vicinity  of  St.  Paul. 

During  the  Year,  from  28  to  30  inches 
of  rain  falls  in  the  Lower  Peninsula  of 
Michigan ;  32  inches  in  the  Upper 
Peninsula,  extending  south  to  Green 
Bay,  Wisconsin,  while  only  from  24  to 
28  inches  of  rain  falls  during  the  twelve 
months  in  Northern  Minnesota,  west  of 
Lake  Superior. 

The  above  uneven  distribution  of 
moisture,  in  connection  with  the  Isothe- 
ral  and  Isothermal  Lines,  when  properly 
understood,  afford  tbo  key  to  the  cli- 
matic influences  operating  in  the  Lake 
Region  and  Upper  Mississippi  Valley. 


LAKE  AND  RIVER  FISHINO. 


247 


LAKE  AND  RIVER  FISHING. 


Trotjt  Fishtno. — Trout,  which  are 
usually  called  brook-trout,  are  caught 
in  numerous  ruiuiing  streams  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  IJnited  States  and 
in  Canada.  They  are  also  taken  in  seve- 
ral pure  fresh-water  lakes  where  the 
water  is  very  cold.  They  generally  have 
red  and  yellow  spots  on  their  sides — 
concave  tail,  and  belly  tinged  with 
orange  red — varying  in  color,  appear- 
ance and  size,  with  the  quality  of  the 
soil  pertaining  to  the  streams  they  in- 
liabit.  They  liave  large  eyes,  a  wide 
mouth,  sharp  teeth,  and  scaleless  skin. 
The  usual  weight  of  brook-trout  is  from 
one-half  to  four  pounds,  and  said  to  be 
taken  even  larger  on  the  North  iShore 
«.  f  Lake  Superior.  The  best  time  for 
taking  them  is  in  the  Spring  and  Sum- 
mer months. 

An  experienced  angler  says: — "You 
can  hook  trout  in  several  ways.  Some 
prefer  fly  fishing,  and  this  is  the  most 
interesting  mode  in  Summer.  The  rod 
to  be  used  should  be  light,  and  the  line 
made  of  hair,  or  silk  and  grass.  The 
fly  should  be  placed  on  a  length  of  gut, 
or  a  single  light  hair.  Do  not  fish  with 
your  back  to  the  sun.  Stand  as  far 
from  the  slreani  as  circumstances  will 
allow — always  throw  your  line  from 
you — never  whip  it  out.  Fly  fishing 
IS  only  suitable  for  pleasant  weather. 
The  best  time  of  the  day  is  early  in 
the  morning  or  just  at  sunset.  The 
line  should  be  about  half  as  long  as 
the  rod.  It  should  be  thrown  up 
"stream,  and  let  the  fly  gradually  float 
down,  and,  if  possible,  fall  into  the 
eddies  where  the  fish  is  apt  to  retreat 
in  case  oi  alarm.  Let  your  line  fall 
Into  the  stream  lightly  and  naturally, 
/md  when  you  raise  it,  do  so  gently  and 
by  degrees. 


"  In  fishing  with  the  fly,  only  a  small 
part  of  the  line  is  allowed  to  be  in  the 
water.  If  you  stand  on  the  bank  t)f  the 
stream,  throw  your  line  as  far  up  as 
possible,  as  you  cannot  expect  to  catch 
a  trout  opposite  or  below  where  you 
are  standing.  If  bushes  intervene'be- 
tween  you  and  the  stream,  (which  is 
all  the  better),  do  not  rustle  them  or 
make  a  noise. 

"  Worm  fishing  for  trout  is  practised 
with  similar  caution.  After  a  ruin, 
when  the  water  of  the  brook  is  a  little 
riley,  you  can  catch  trout  by  this  mode 
sometimes  very  rapidly.  A  single  split 
shot  will  generally  be  enough  to  sink 
vour  line.  The  rod  should  be  a  bam- 
boo, 16  or  20  feet  long,  and  the  line 
shorter  than  the  rod.  When  the  fish 
takes  the  bait,  do  not  let  him  run  with 
it,  but  keep  a  steady  hand.  Do  not 
jerk,  but  play  gradually  with  him. 
If  tlie  day  be  clear,  and  the  stream 
shallow,  the  best  way  is  to  wade  up 
stream  cautiously,  throwing  your  line 
far  up,  and  let  it  come  graduallv  to- 
wards you.  The  fish  always  heaas  up 
stream,  and  you  should  not  fail  to  re- 
member if  he  once  sees  you  he  vanislies 
and  your  sport  is  spoiled. 

"  The  fin  of  a  trout,  or  other  small 
fish,  is  sometimes  used  as  a  bait  for 
trout  with  good  success.  It  is  dropped 
and  roved,  as  with  a  minnow  or  fly." 

Mackinac  Trout,  or  Salmon 
Trovt. — This  is  a  fish  of  fine  flavor, 
and  some  people  consider  it  almost 
equal  to  salmon.  The  flesh  is  reddish, 
and  hence  it  is  often  called  the  salmon 
trout.  The  color  is  dark,  or  dusky 
grey ;  back  and  sides  sprinkled  with 
spots  somewhat  lighter;  belly  light 
brown  or  cream  color;  the  teeth,  guma 


24S 


THE  UPPER  MISSISSIPPI. 


and  roof  of  the  mouth  having  a  light 
purple  tinge.  It  usually  averages  from 
two  to  four  feet  in  length,  and  inhabits 
all  the  great  Lakes  of  the  West — par- 
ticularly Lakes  Huron,  Michigan  and 
Superior. 

S{)ortsmen  always  take  the  salmon 
trout  by  trolling,  or  by  set  lines.  For 
the  latter  they  use  the  largest  size  cod- 
hooks  and  cod-lines;  and  for  bait,  bits 
of  Lake  herring  or  white  lish  are  all 
that  is  necessary.  In  trolling,  both 
tackle  and  bait  are  different,  the  min- 
now being  chiefly  used  for  bait.  In 
trolling  use  swivels  freely  to  keep  your 
line  from  getting  tangled.  When  you 
have  a  bite,  slack  the  line  a  little  to 
allow  the  fish  to  gorge  his  bait,  then 
begin  to  pull  steadily,  after  arranging 
everything  in  a  proper  manner  to  en- 
able you  to  play  your  fioh.  Trolling 
for  salmon  trout  is  most  excellent 
sport,  and  amateurs  take  great  delight 
in  this  kind  of  fishing.  To  insure  suc- 
cess you  should  have  an  experienced 
hand  to  row  your  boat  in  trolling  for 
this  fish.  We  have  known  good  suc- 
cess on  the  Lakes  where  a  small  tug 
boat  has  been  used  for  this  purpose. 

The  Muskellunge,  or  Lake 
Pike. — This  game  fish,  found  in  the 
Upper  Lakes  and  the  St.  Lawrence 
River,  grows  from  one  to  three  feet  in 
length,  according  to   the  depta  and 


breadth  of  the  waters  that  he  inhabits. 
"Built  like  a  pike^  he  is  of  a  deep 
greenish  brown  color,  dark  back,  and 
pale  sides  with  greenish  spots.  In  fish- 
ing for  the  smaller  sizen,  your  tackle 
should  be  similar  to  that  used  for 
pickerel ;  but  for  large  ones,  you  want 
a  good  sized  cod-line,  with  a  cod-hook 
to  match.  He  will  bite  greedily  at 
various  baits — a  bit  of  fish,  a  slice  of 
pork,  a  bundle  of  worms,  or  chicken 
oflal,  a  small  fish,  or  a  frog.  It  re- 
quires a  good  deal  of  care,  caution  and 
physical  exertion  to  land  him.  He  is 
a  most  beautiful  game  fish,  and  is  the 
best  eating  fish,  next  to  the  white  fish, 
that  inhabits  the  Lakes. 

"The  Muskellunge,  {Umg  face  of  the 
French,)  abound  in  Niagara  Kiver 
and  the  St.  Lawrence,  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  '  Thousand  Islands.'  He  is  an 
enormous  pike,  with  the  lower  project- 
ing jaw  armed  with  needle  teeth  clear 
into  the  throat,  ranging  from  five  to 
forty  pounds  weight,  a^ile  as  lightning 
and  a  perfect  water-tiger  among  the 
smaller  fishes.  He  is  game  until 
death — a  sharp  customer  to  handle ; 
but  a  more  delicate  fish,  flesh  white  as 
snow  and  savory  as  an  oyster,  well 
boiled,  and  served  upon  the  dinner- 
table  with  pepper  sauces,  does  not 
exist." 

For  Fish  of  the  Upper  Lakes,  see 
page  19. 


: :  nfcgj 

■  ■ifn 

■ 

m 

/',' 

1 

j    ■ 

'i 

■     -        i 

.       1 
1 

'■]  '^"' 

1 

249 


PORTAOE   EOUTE  FROM   LAKE   SUPERIOR  TO  LAKE 

WINNIPEG. 

Starting  tmom  Fort  Willum,  c.  w. 


Kaministaqcoiah  River,  emptying  into 
Thunder  Baj'  of  Lake  Superior,  forms  the 
west  boundary  of  Canada  proper;  to  tlio 
nortli  and  west  lies  the  extensive  region 
or  country  known  as  the  llndwu  Jiay 
Compaynfs  Ttrritory.  Hero  coniiuonces 
tlio  great  Fortii(/e  Uoad  to  Rainy  Lake, 
Lake  of  the  Woods,  and  the  Red  River 
settlement;  also,  to  Lake  Winnipeg,  Nor- 
way House,  and  York  Factory,  situated 
on  Hudson  Bay.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Kam- 
inistaquoiah  stands  Fort  William.  "  The 
banks  of  the  river  average  in  height  from 
eight  to  twenty  feet;  the  soil  is  alluvial 
and  very  rich.  The  vegetation  all  along 
its  banks  is  remarkably  llirifty  and  luxui  i- 
aut  in  its  appearance.  The  land  is  well 
timbered ;  there  are  found  in  great  abun- 
dance, the  fir-tree,  birch,  tamarack,  poplar, 
elm,  and  the  spruce.  There  is  also  white 
pine,  but  not  in  great  plenty.  Wild  hops 
and  peas  are  found  in  abundance,  and 
some  buslies  and  other  flowering  shrubs, 
in  many  places  cover  the  banks  down 
to  the  very  margin  of  the  river,  adorning 
them  with  beauty,  and  of*"n  filling  the 
air  with  fragrance.  The  land  on  this  river 
up  io  the  Mountain  Portage  (.^2  miles), 
and  for  a  long  way  back,  is  unsurpassed 
in  richness  and  beauty  by  any  lands  in 
British  America." 

The  Mountain  Fall,  situated  on  this 
stream,  is  thus  described:  "We  had  great 
diflBculty  in  finding  it  at  first,  but,  guided 
by  its  thundering  roar,  through  such  a 
thicket  of  brush,  thorns  and  briars,  as  I 
never  before  thought  of,  we  reached  the 
spot  from  whence  it  was  visible.  The 
whole  river  plunged  in  one  broad  white 
sheet,  through  &  space  not  more  than  fifty 
feet  wide,  and  over  a  precipice  higher,  by 
many  feet,  than  the  Niagara  Falls.  The 
concave  sheet  comes  together  about  three- 


fourths  of  the  way  to  the  bottom,  from 
whence  tlie  spray  springs  liigli  into  the 
air,  bedewing  and  whitening  the  precipi- 
tous and  wild  looi<ing  crags  witii  which 
the  fall  is  eomi)osed,  and  clothing  wilh 
drapery  of  foam  the  gloomy  pines,  that 
liang  about  the  clefts  and  fissures  of  the 
rocks.  Tlie  falls  and  the  whole  surround- 
ing scenery,  for  suljlimity,  wildness,  and 
novel  grandeur,  exceeds  any  thl.ig  of  the 
kind  I  ever  saw." — Ktv.  J.  Rytrsoii's  Tour. 

The  danger  of  navigating  these  moun- 
tain streams,  in  a  birch  canoe,  is  greater 
than  many  would  expect  who  had  never 
witnessed  the  force  of  the  current  some- 
times encountered.  Mr.  Ryerson  remarks: 
"  During  the  day  we  passed  a  large  niim- 
ber  of  strong  and  some  dangerous  rapids. 
Several  times  the  canoe,  in  spite  of  tlie 
most  strenuous  exertions  of  the  men,  was 
driven  back,  such  was  the  violence  of  the 
currents.  On  one  occasion  sueli  was  the 
force  of  tiio  stream,  that  though  four  strong 
men  were  holding  the  rope,  it  was  wrencli- 
ed  out  of  their  hands  in  an  instant,  and 
we  were  hurled  down  the  rapids  with 
violent  speed,  at  tlie  mercy  of  tlie  foaming 
waves  and  irresistible  torrent,  until  fortu- 
nately in  safety  we  reached  an  eddy  be- 
low."    {See  Engraving.) 

Doo  Lake  is  an  expansion  of  the  river, 
distant  by  its  vnnding  course,  76  mile8 
from  its  mouth.  Other  lakes  and  expan- 
sions of  streams  are  passed  on  the  route 
westward. 

"The  Savan,  or  Prairie  Portage,  120 
miles  from  Fort  Wilham,  by  portage  route, 
forms  the  height  of  land  between  Lake 
Superior  and  tlie  waters  falling  into  Lake 
Winnipeg;  it  is  between  three  and  four 
miles  long,  and  a  continuous  cedar  swamp 
from  one  end  to  the  other,  and  i.s  tlierefore 
very  properly  named  tlie  iSavan  or  Swamo 


?f/> 


2-0 


TRIP    THROUOa    TilE    LAKES. 


Portage.  It  lies  seven  or  eight  hundred 
feet  above  Lakes  Superior  and  Winnipeg, 
and  1,'18;{  feet  above  tint  sea." 

Tlio  hJAVAN  RiVEU,  which  i.s  flrst  formed 
by  the  waters  of  the  Swump,  enters  into 
the  Lac  JJn  MUk,  or  the  Lake  of  Tliou- 
Baiids,  so  called  because  of  the  innumer- 
able islands  which  are  in  it.  This  lake 
is  comparatively  narrow,  being  sixty  or 
seventy  miles  in  lenf^lh. 

Tlie  River  JJu  Milk,  the  outlet  of  the 
Lake,  is  a  precipitous  stream,  whereon 
are  several  jwrtages,  Viefore  entering  into 
Lac  La  Pluie,  distant  ;{50  mdes  from  Fort 
William. 

Rainy  Lake,  or  Lac  la  Pluie,  through 
which  runs  the  boumlary  between  tlie 
United  States  and  Canada,  is  a  most  beau- 
tiful sheet  of  water;  it  is  forty-eight  miles 
l(jng,  and  averages  about  ten  miles  in 
))readth.  It  rsceivcs  the  waters  flowing 
westward  froni  the  dividing  ridge  separa- 
ting the  waters  Ilowing  into  Lake  Supe- 
rior. 


Rainy  Lake  River,  the  outlet  of  the 
lake  of  the  same  name,  is  a  magnificent 
stream  of  water ;  it  has  u  rapid  current 
and  averages  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in 
width ;  its  banks  are  covered  with  the 
richest  foliage  of  every  hue;  the  trees  in 
the  vicinity  are  large  and  variefi,  consisting 
of  ash,  cedar,  poplar,  oak,  birch,  and  red 
and  white  pines;  also  an  abundance  of 
flowers  of  gaudy  and  variegated  colors. 
The  climate  is  also  very  fine,  with  a  rich 
soil,  and  well  calculated  to  sustain  a  dense 
population  as  any  part  of  Canada. 

The  Lake  of  the  Woods,  or  Lac  Du 
Jhis,  68  miles  in  length,  and  from  fifteen 
to  twenty-five  miles  wide,  is  a  splendid 
sheet  of  water,  dotted  all  over  with  hun- 
dreds of  beautiful  islands,  many  of  which 
are  covered  with  a  heavy  and  luxuriant 
fohage.  Warm  and  frequent  showers  oc- 
(Hir  iiero  in  May  and  June  brin^ring  forth 
vegetation  atarapid  rate-,  although  situated 
on  the  4'.)th  degree  of  nortli  latitude,  from 
whence  e.xlends  ivcstward  to  the  PaciQo 


PULUKO  A  CANua  Vl>  TUB  liAI'UfS. 


LAKE    BUPERIOR   TO    LAKE    WINNIPEG. 


251 


Ocean,  the  boundary  line  between   the 
United  States  and  Canada. 

"There  is  nothing,  I  think,  better  cal- 
culated to  awaken  the  more  solemn  foclinga 
of  our  nature,  than  these  noble  lakes  stud- 
ded witii  innumerable  islets,  suddenly 
bursting  on  the  traveller's  view  as  lie  emer- 
ges from  the  sombre  forest  rivers  of  the 
American  wilderness.  The  clear,  unruffled 
water,  stretching  out  on  the  horizon;  hero 
intersecting  the  iieavy  and  luxuriant  foli- 
age of  an  liundred  woody  isles,  or  reflect- 
ing the  wood-clad  mountains  on  its  margin, 
clotiied  in  ail  the  variegated  hues  of  au- 
tumn ;  and  there  glittering  with  dazzling 
brilliancy  in  the  bright  rays  of  the  even- 
ing sun,  or  rippling  among  the  reeds 
and  rushes  of  some  sliailow  bay,  where 
hundreds  of  wild  fowl  chatter  as  they 
feed  with  varied  cry,  rendering  more  ap- 
parent, rather  tlian  disturbing  the  solemn 
BtiUness  of  the  scene:  all  tend  to  raise 
the  soul  from  nature  up  to  nature's  God, 
and  remind  one  of  the  beautiful  passage 
of  Scripture,  '  0  Lord,  how  marvellous  are 
thy  works,  in  wisdom  hast  thou  made 
them  all;  the  earth  is  full  of  thy  riches.'  " 
— Ballantyne. 

The  Winnipeg  River,  the  outlet  of  the 
Lake  of  the  Woods,  is  a  rapid  stream,  of 
large  size,  falling  into  Winnipeg  Lake,  3 
miles  below  Frtrt  Alexander,  one  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company's  Posts.  A  great 
number  of  Indians  resort  to  the  Fort  every 
year,  besides  a  number  of  families  who  are 
residents  in  the  vicinity,  hero  being  one 
of  their  favorite  haunts. 

Rev.  Mr.  Ryerson  remarks  : — "  The 
scenery  for  many  miles  around  is  strik- 
ingly beautiful.  Tho  climate  for  Hud- 
son's Bay  Territory  ia  here  remarkably 
fine  and  salubrious,  the  land  ama/.ingly 
rich  and  productive.  The  water  in  Lakes 
Lac  La  Pluie,  Lac  Du  Hois,  Winnipeg,  Ac, 
is  dot  deep,  and  because  of  their  wide  sur- 
face and  great  shallowness,  during  the 
summer  season,  they  become  exceedingly 
warm ;  this  has  a  wonderful  efTuct  on  the 


temperature  of  the  atmosphere  in  tho  ad- 
jacent neighborhoods,  and  no  doubt  makes 
the  great  difference  in  the  climate  (or  at 
least  is  one  of  tho  principal  causes  of  it), 
in  tliose  parts,  to  the  climate  and  vegetable 
productions  in  the  neighborhood  of  Lake 
Superior,  near  Fort  William.  They  grow 
s[)ring  wheat  here  to  perfection,  and  vege- 
tation is  rapid,  luxuriant,  and  comes  to 
maturity  before  frosts  occur." 

The  whole  region  of  country  surround- 
ing Lake  Winnipeg,  the  Red  River  coun- 
try, as  well  as  tlio  Assiniboino  and  Sas- 
katchewan country,  are  all  sooner  or  later 
destined  to  sustain  a  vigorous  and  dense 
population. 


LAKE  WINNIPEG, 

Situated  between  50"  and  55°  north 
latitude,  is  about  300  miles  long,  and  in 
several  parts  more  than  50  miles  broad ; 
having  an  estimated  area  of  8,500  square 
miles.*  Lake  Winnipeg  receives  the  wa- 
ters of  numerous  rivers,  which,  in  tho 
aggregate,  drain  an  area  of  about  400,000 
square  miles.  The  Saskatchewan  (tlie  riv- 
er that  runs  fast)  is  its  most  important 
tributary.  The  Assiniboino,  tlie  Red  Riv- 
er of  the  North,  and  Winnipeg  River  are  its 
other  largest  tril)utaries,  altogetlier  dis- 
charging an  immense  amount  of  water 
into  this  great  inland  lake.  It  is  elevated 
about  700  feet  above  Hudson  Bay,  and 
discharges  its  surplus  waters  through 
Nehon  River,  a  large  and  magnificent 
stream,-  which  like  the  St.  Lawrence  is 
filled  with  islands  and  numerous  rapids, 


•Lakk  liAiKAi.,  tho  most  extensive  body  of 
fresh  water  on  tlio  Kustorn  Continent,  sittmu'd  in 
Southern  Hibertu,  hetwocn  lat.  51"  und  5.5"  north, 
is  about  870  miles  in  ienfrth,  45  inlius  avern^'u 
width,  and  about  W)  inlles  in  circuit;  bring 
somewhat  larfjer  tliun  Lake  Winnipeg  in  area. 
Its  depth  in  Rome  places  is  very  great.  bt*ing  in 
part  surrounded  l)y  hljih  mountains.  The  Yeni- 
<ei,  ilsuutlut,  tlow8  uorlb  into  iLu  Arctie  Oecaa. 


'I 


'I 


■!!4fc7 


I 


252 


TRIP  THROUGH  THE  LAKES. 


preventing  navigation  entirely  below  CrosB 
Lal<e. 

Lakes  Manitobah  and  Winnipego-sis,  uni- 
ted, are  nearly  of  the  same  length  as  Win- 
nipeg, lying  40  or  50  miles  westward. 
Nearly  the  whole  country  between  Lake 
Winnipeg  and  its  western  rivaL  is  occu- 
pied by  smaller  lakes,  so  that  between 
the  vaJley  of  the  Assiniboine  and  tlie 
eastern  shore  of  Winnipeg  fully  one-tliird 
is  under  water.  These  lakes,  both  large 
and  small,  are  shallow,  and  in  the  same 
water  area  show  much  uniformity  in  depth 
and  coast  lino. 


ILiakcs  in  the  Yalley  of  the 
Saskatctae^vun. 

Length  Breadth  Elevation  Area 
In  mileg.   in  miles,  in  fuct.  in  ni's. 

Winnipeg, 280       57       G28       8,500 

Manitobah, 122       24      670       2,000 

Winnipego-sis,..  120       27       G92       2,000 

St.  Martin, 30       16       656  350 

Cedar, 30       25       688  350 

Dauphin, 21       12       700         200 

All  the  smaller  lakes  lie  west  of  Lake 
Winnipeg,  which  receives  their  surplus 
waters ;  the  whole  volume,  with  the  large 
streams,  flowing  into  Nelson  River,  dis- 
charges into  Hudson  Bay,  near  York  Fac- 
tory, in  67"  north  latitude.  The  naviga- 
tion of  the  latter  stream  is  interrupted  by 
falls  and  rapids,  having  a  descent  of  628 
feet  in  its  course  of  about  350  miles. 

"  The  chmate  in  the  region  of  the  above 
lakes  and  the  Red  River  Settlement  will 
compare  not  unfavorably  with  that  of 
Kingston  and  Toronto,  Canada  West. 
The  Spring  generally  opens  somewhat 
earlier,  but  owing  to  the  proximity  of  Lake 
Winnipeg  which  is  late  of  breaking  up, 
the  weather  is  always  variable  until  the 
middle  of  May.  The  slightest  breeze  from 
the  north  or  northwest,  blowing  over  the 
frozen  surfaso  of  that  inland  sea,  has  an 


immediate  effect  on  the  temperature  du- 
ring the  Spring  months.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  Fall  is  generally  open,  with 
mild,  dry,  and  pleasant  weather." 


Red  River  of  the  North. 

This  interesting  section  of  country  be- 
ing closely  connected  with  the  Upper  Lakes, 
and  attracting  much  attention  at  the  pres- 
ent time,  we  subjoin  the  following  extract 
from  "Minnesota  and  Dacota,"  by  C, 
C.  Andrews: 

"  It  is  common  to  say  that  settlements 
have  not  been  extended  beyond  Crow 
Wing,  Minnesota.  This  is  only  techni- 
cally true.  A  few  facts  in  regard  to  the 
people  who  live  four  or  five  hundred  miles 
to  the  north  will  best  illustrate  the  nature 
of  the  chmate  and  its  adaptedness  to  agri- 
culture. 

"There  is  a  settlement  ao  Pemlina^neax 
the  49th  parallel  of  latitude,  where  the  di- 
viding line  between  British  America  and 
the  United  States  crosses  the  Red  River  of 
the  North.  Pembina  is  said  to  have  about 
600  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  the 
Pembina  River.  It  is  an  Indian-French 
word  meaning  '  Cranberry.''  Men  live  there 
who  were  born  there,  and  it  is  in  fact  an 
old  settlement.  It  was  founded  by  Brit- 
ish subjects,  who  thought  they  had  loca- 
ted on  British  soil.  The  greater  part  of 
its  inhabitants  are  half-breeda,  who  earn 
a  comfortable  livelihood  in  fur-hunting  and 
farming.  It  is  460  miles  northwest  of  St. 
Paul,  and  330  miles  distant  from  Crow 
Wing.  Notwithstanding  the  distance, 
there  is  considerable  communication  be- 
tween the  two  places.  West  of  Pembina, 
about  thirty  miles,  is  a  settlement  called 
St.  Joseph,  situated  near  a  large  mytho- 
logical body  of  water  called  Miniwakin,  or 
Devil's  Lake. 

"  Now  let  me  say  something  about  this 
Red  Rivee  of  the  North,  for  it  is  begin- 


LAKE  SUPERIOR  TO  LAKE  WINNIPEG. 


253 


nmg  to  be  a  great  feature  in  this  upper 
country.  It  runs  north  and  empties  into 
Lake  Winnipeg,  which  connects  with  Hud- 
son Bay  by  Nelson  River.  It  is  a  muddy 
and  skiggish  stream,  navigable  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Sioux  Wood  River  for  vessels 
of  three  feet  draught  for  four  months  in 
the  year,  so  that  the  extent  of  its  navigation 
within  Minnesota  alone  (between  Pem- 
bina and  the  mouth  of  Sioux  Wood  River) 
is  400  miles.  Buftaloes  still  feed  on  its 
western  banks.  Its  tributaries  are  nu- 
merous and  copious,  abounding  with  the 
choicest  kind  of  game,  and  skirted  with 
a  various  and  beautiful  foliage.  It  cannot 
be  many  years  before  this  magnificent 
valley  (together  with  the  Saskatchewan) 
shall  pour  its  products  into  our  markets, 
and  bo  the  theatre  of  a  busy  and  genial  life. 

"i?eci  Eiver  Settlement  is  seventy  miles 
north  of  Pembina,  and  lies  on  both  sides 
of  the  river.  Its  population  is  estimated 
at  10,000  souls.  It  owes  its  origin  and 
growth  to  the  enterprise  and  success  of 
the  Hudson  Bay  Company.  Many  of  the 
settlers  came  from  Scotland,  but  the  most 
were  from  Canada.  They  speak  English 
and  Canadian  French.  The  English  style 
of  society  is  well  kept  up,  whether  we  re- 
gard the  Church  with  its  bishop,  the  tra- 
der with  his  wine-cellar,  the  scholar  with 
his  library,  the  officer  with  his  sinecure,  or 
iheir  paper  currency.  The  great  business 
of  the  settlement,  of  course,  is  the  fur 
traflRc. 

"Ai  immense  amount  of  Buffalo  skins 
IS  taken  in  summer  and  autumn,  while  in 


the  winter  smaller  but  more  valuable  fura 
are  procured.  The  Indians  also  enlist  in 
the  hunts ;  and  it  is  estimated  that  upward 
of  $200,000  worth  of  furs  are  annually 
taken  from  our  territory  and  sold  to  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company.  It  is  high  time 
indeed  that  a  military  post  should  be  es- 
tablished somewhere  on  Red  River  by  our 
government. 

"  The  Hudson  Bay  Company  is  now  a 
powerful  monopoly.  Not  so  magniOcent 
and  potent  as  the  East  India  Company,  it 
is  still  a  powerful  combination,  showering 
opulence  on  its  members,  and  reflecting  a 
peculiar  feature  in  the  strength  and  gran- 
deur of  the  British  empire — a  power  which, 
to  use  the  eloquent  language  of  Daniel 
Webster,  '  has  dotted  over  the  whole  sur- 
face of  the  globe  with  her  possessions  and 
military  posts,  whose  morning  drum-boat 
following  the  sun,  and  keeping  company 
with  the  hours,  circles  the  earth  daily 
with  one  continuous  and  unbroken  strain 
of  martial  music'  The  company  is  grow- 
ing richer  every  year,  and  its  jurisdiction 
and  its  lands  will  soon  find  an  availability 
never  dreamed  of  by  its  founders,  un 
less,  as  may  possibly  happen,  popular  sover- 
eignty steps  in  to  grasp  the  fruits  of  its  long 
apprenticeship." 

The  Charter  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Compa- 
ny expired,  by  its  own  limitation,  in  1860, 
and  the  question  of  annexing  this  vast  do- 
main to  Canada,  or  forming  a  separate 
province,  is  now  deeply  agitating  the  Brit- 
ish public,  both  in  Canada  and  in  the 
mother  country. 


1  i. 

1; 

1       . 

'i 

'   i  1'  i 
1  w 

\ ' 

\    i 

1   ■' 

i  i^ 

;in,  or 


t  thia 
jegitt" 


m 

ill! 


:i''4 


254 


TRIP   THROUGH   THE   LAKES. 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES, 

From   Fort   William,  sitcateo  at  the  Mouth  of  the  Kamistaquouh 
RivEB,  to  Fort  Alexander,  at  the  head  of  Lake  Winnipeg. 

Miles. 

Fort  "William 0 

Parapliue  Portage 25 

(8  Portages) 

Dog  Portage 51  76 

(5  Portages) 

Savan  or  Swamp  Portage* 54  130 

Thousand  Islands  Lake 57  187 

(2  Portages) 

Sturgeon  Lake 71  258 

[4i  Portages) 

Lac  La  Croix 25  283 

(5  Portages) 

Rainy  Lake 40  323 

Rainy  Lake  River 38  361 

Lake  of  the  Woods 83  444 

Rat  Portage 68  612 

Fort  Alexander 125  637 

From  Fort  Alexander  to  i'or  t  Garry 

OR  Red  River  Settlement,  bt  Water. 

Miles. 

To  Pointe  de  Grand  Marais 24 

"  Red  River  Beacon 25  49 

«*  Lower  Fort 23  72 

"  Fort  Garry 24  96 

From  Fort  Alexander  to  Norway  House,  passing  through  Lake  Winnipeg, 
300  miles. 

From  Norway  Hoxsb  to  York  Factory,  passing  through  Oxford  Lake  and  Hayea 
Elver,  400  miles. 

•  Sammit,  elevated  840  foet  above  Lake  Superior. 


!— »T 


IQDOIAH 
G. 

Milefc 

0 

25 

51  76 

54  130 

57  187 

71  258 

25  283 

40  323 
38  361 
83  444 
68  612 
,  125  637 


Miles. 

24 

25  49 

23  72 

24  96 
fVinnipeg, 

nd  Hayei 


The  New  Noeth-west. 


EXCURSION  FROM  DULUTH  TO  THE  RED  RIVER  OF  THE 
NORTH  AND  THE  UPPER  MISSOURI  RIVER, 

Via  THE  Northern  Pacific  Railroad. 


ON  leaving  Duluth  for  Moorhead, 
Minn.,  situated  on  the  east  bank  of 
the  Red  River  of  the  North,  or  Bis- 
marck, on  the  Upper  Missouri  River, 
you  pass  Fond  du  Lac,  near  the  Dalles 
of  the  St.  Louis  River,  and  proceed  to 
Thomson,  23  miles.  Then  cross  the  St. 
Louis  River  to  the  Junction,  1  mile, 
where  commences  the  Northern  Pa- 
cific Railroad  —  the  first  twenty-four 
miles  of  railroad  track  being  over  the 
Lake  Superior  and  Mississippi  Railroad, 
155  miles  in  length,  extending  to  St.  Paul. 

Leaving  the  Junciion,  elevated  400  feet 
above  Lake  Superior,  bound  for  the  Red 
River,  or  farther  westward,  you  pass  over 
a  fine  road-bed,  with  an  ascending  grade, 
for  a  number  of  miles.  A  small  growth 
of  pine  and  birch  is  encountered,  with 
some  burnt  timber,  until  you  reach 

Norman,  Carlton  Co.,  33  miles  from 
Duluth.  This  is  a  small  settlement,  at 
present  surrounded  by  some  Indian  wig- 
wams. A  small  growth  of  burnt  timber 
is  next  passed,  then  small  lakes  on  both 
sides  of  the  railroad. 

Long  Swamp  is  surrounded  by  a  stunt- 
ed growth  of  pines.  Here  piles  are 
driven  50  or  60  feet  deep,  to  obtain  a 
foundation  for  the  road-bed. 

Island  Lake,  46  miles.  Here  are 
several  small  lakes,  surrounded  by  a 
small  growth  of  trees.  Soon  you  pass 
the  divide  of  waters  running  south-east 


into  Kettle  River  and  the  St.  Croix,  and 
other  waters  running  northward  into 
tributaries  of  the  Mississippi  River. 

Sicotte's,  58  miles  from  Duluth. 
Near  this  station  is  a  tamarack  swamp, 
into  which  an  engine  was  lately  tumbled 
by  running  off  the  track.  It  soon  sank 
out  of  sight,  and  was  brought  to  the  sur- 
face by  great  labor,  showing  the  treach- 
erous character  of  these  sloughs.  Near 
by  we  passed  a  solitary  "  Lo,"  who  was 
standing  on  a  pile  of  wood  smoking  a 
pipe,  while  apparently  looking  with  won- 
der on  the  passing  train,  being  a  tit  rep- 
resentative of  the  surrounding  country. 

The  wild  game  here  is  said  to  consist 
of  deer,  bears,  mink,  otter,  and  muskrat, 
which  are  mostly  taken  by  Indians  dur- 
ing the  fall  and  winter  months. 

Kimberley's,  or  Bice  River,  is  next 
passed,  76  miles  from  Duluth. 

Aiken,  Aiken  Co.,  88  miles,  is  situ- 
ated on  Mud  River,  emptying  into  the 
Mississippi  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
north.  Here  is  a  depot  building,  a  post- 
oflice,  dtore,  and  a  few  dwellings,  with 
several  Indian  wigwams.  This  is  a  lum- 
ber region,  the  pine  logs  being  floated 
down  the  Mississippi  River  to  St.  An- 
thony Falls. 

"WiTHiNQTON,  98  miles,  is  situated  on 
Reno  Lake.  Here  maple  and  oak  trees 
abound  of  a  fair  growth.  The  railroad 
thus  far  is  apparently  constructed  in  the 

255 


m 


256 


THE  NEW  NORTH-WEST. 


most  substantial  manner,  costing  about 
$20,000  a  mile  from  the  Junction  to  the 
Mississippi  River,  91  miles.  Beautiful 
lakes  are  next  passed,  abounding  with 
wild  ducks  and  geese  during  the  spring 
and  fall  months.  A  few  scattered  pines 
are  passed,  together  with  birch  and  pop- 
lar trees,  as  you  approach  the  "  Father 
of  Waters,"  here  a  comparatively  small 
stream. 

Brainerd,  115  miles  from  Duluth, 
the  capital  of  Crow  \7ing  County,  is  fa- 
vorably situated  on  the  fc.;«t  bank  of  the 
Mississippi,  1200  feet  above  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  on  a  beautiful  elevation,  50  or 
60  feet  above  the  river.  It  contains  a 
court-house  and  jail,  1  bank,  3  churches, 
6  hotels  or  taverns,  12  stores,  1  printing- 
office,  2  steam  saw-mills,  1  planing-mill, 
1  iron  foundry,  1  sash,  door  and  blind 
factory,  a  brewery  and  brick-yard,  a 
portable  house  manufactory,  and  an  ex- 
tensive machine  shop  and  roundhouse, 
belonging  to  the  Northern  Pacific  Rail- 
road. Here  is  also  a  reception  house  for 
emigrants  and  a  hospital,  erected  by  the 
above  Company.  The  railroad  briage  at 
this  place  is  a  substantial  structure  600 
feet  m  length.  The  river  is  navigable 
for  a  small  class  of  steamers  for  200  miles 
above  to  the  Pokegema  Falls,  and  30  miles 
belovi/^  to  the  Little  Falls,  passing  Crow 
Wing  and  Fort  Ripley. 

A  13ra!ich  Railroad  is  being  construct- 
ed to  extend  from  Sauk  Rapids  to  this 
place,  running  on  the  east  side  of  the 
Mississippi  River,  forming  a  direct  rail- 
road line  between  St.  Paul  and  Brainerd, 
'"aking  it  an  important  railroad  station, 
where  passengers  now  stop  daily  to  dine 
when  going  east  or  west  on  the  trains. 


Climate  of  Northern  Minnesota. 

In  speaking  of  the  peculiar  climate  of 
Fort  Ripley,  situated  about  20  miles  south 
of  Brainerd,  the  surgeon  of  the  post  re- 
marks: "This  section  of  Minneso.  is, 
no  doubt,  influenced  by  cold  currem  i  of 


air  descending  from  Hudson  Ray  and  the 
Arctic  regions,  while  the  western  and 
more  southern  portions  of  the  State  are, 
no  doubt,  favored  by  a  climatic  influence 
proceeding  from  the  Pacific  coast,  across 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  in  British  Ameri- 
ca, hence  the  favorable  clin^ate  of  the  Med 
River  country  of  the  North. 

"Diflerent  kinds  of  pines,  oaks,  and 
birch  constitute  the  prcvaiimg  forest 
growth  of  this  region.  The  sugar  maple 
abounds  in  some  places.  The  chestnut, 
walnut,  and  beech  are  unknown,  as  is 
every  species  of  fruit  trees,  wild  or  culti- 
vated. The  soil  is  generally  a  sandy 
alluvium.  The  la/<d,  at  least  when  first 
cultivated,  if  more  |-  'oductive  than  might 
be  supposes  Iseini  what  farmers  term 
'  warm,'  and  ada»  d  to  the  short  sum- 
mers. The  average  dtpth  of  snow  dur- 
ing winter  is  from  tv  o  to  three  feet, 
which  lies  for  aL  ut  fivt  months, —  from 
November  to  April. 

"  The  phenomena  of  spring,  when  once 
begun,  often  progresses  with  great  rapid- 
ity ;  and  from  the  climate  of  winter,  the 
region  sometimes  seems  to  pass  at  once 
into  that  of  mid-summer.  Wild  straw- 
berries, which  are  found  here  in  great 
abundance,  ripen  from  the  20th  to  the 
last  of  June.  During  the  summer 
months,  and  [)tember  and  October,  the 
weather  is  gt  ucrally  clear  and  delightful, 
this  whole  region  being  favored  v;ith  a 
healthy  atmosphere." 


Snow^  Line  —  Rainfall. 

The  "  Maximum  Snow  Line,"  the  St. 
Paul  (Minn.)  Pioneer  says :  "  During  the 
past  season  (1872-73)  the  centre  of  pre- 
cipitation has  corresponded  nearly  with 
the  north  boundary  of  Iowa  and  Ne- 
braska. Southern  Minnesota  has  had 
more  snowjthan  the  central  part  of  the 
State,  and  that  more  than  the  north  end, 
with  the  single  exception  of  parts  bor- 
dering on  Lake  Superior,  or  within  the 
influence  of  Lake  Winnipeg.    The  rail- 


■  w 


SNOW  LINE  — GULL  RIVER  —  ALDRICH 


m 


had 
the 

end, 

bor- 
the 

rail- 


ways south  have  bee^r  often,  and  much 
worse,  blockaded  thf  those  north  of  us. 
Indeed,  the  North  i  cifio.  Railroad  lias 
been  open  and  in  operation  for  weeks  to- 
gether, while  lines  from  Chicago  east- 
ward were  completely  buried.  The  rea- 
son of  all  this  18  that  the  great  air  cur- 
rents which  carry  the  water  of  the  sea  to 
all  this  section,  during  the  severity  of  the 
winter,  in  coming  up  from  the  south  un- 
load their  burden  before,  or  by  the  time, 
they  reach  this  latitude;  and  as  thep^ 
move  on  northward  nearly  every  parti- 
cle of  moisture  is  wrung  out  of  them. 
Our  cold  winds  are  almost  always  dry. 
The  extreme  North  has  more  snowless 
territory  than  the  South  has  rainless." 

Starting  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico, 
west  of  the  Mississippi  River,  in  Louisi- 
ana, 18  inches  of  rain  falls  during  the 
winter  months,  16  inches  in  Southern  Ar- 
kansas, 12  inches  in  Northern  Arkansas, 
8  inches  in  Missouri,  6  inches  in  Iowa, 
4  inches  in  Southern  Minncvsota,  and  2 
inches  in  Northern  Minnesota  and  in  the 
Valley  of  the  Red  River  of  the  North ; 
in  the  northern  region  the  moisture  fall- 
ing as  snow. 

Gull  River,  7  miles,  is  next  crossed, 
and  Chippewa  Prairie  is  entered  and 
passed. 

Pillager  Station  is  12  miles  from 
Brainerd.  The  Pillager  Indians  are  a 
small  band  residing  some  distance  north 
of  this  station.  It  was  near  here  that 
Hole  in  the  Day,  a  celebrated  Indian 
Chief,  was  assassinated  by  some  of  his 
own  people,  in  1868. 

Crow  Wing  River  is  next  seen,  on  the 
south  of  the  railroad  track,  flowing  from 
tlie  west,  and  a  small  prairie  passed, 
covered  with  grass  and  flowers. 

Motley,  22  miles  from  Brainerd,  is  a 
station  near  where  Crow  Wing  River  is 
crossed.  Here  is  a  settlement  surrounded 
by  a  small  growth  of  pines  and  birch 
trees.  Wet  prairie,  with  dwarfed  wil- 
lows and  some  good  grass,  is  next  passed. 
17 


Small  lakes,  in  part  surrounded  by  wet 
prairie,  is  also  passed,  while  maple  and 
bass-wood  is  seen  on  tlie  ridges. 

Haydekt,  28  miles,  is  another  small 
settlement.  Pine  trees  of  middling  size, 
with  some  burr  oak,  is  passed.  Here 
two  deer  were  seen  near  the  railroad 
track.  Soon  pass  the  divide  between 
the  waters  that  flow  east  into  the  Missis- 
sippi and  west  into  the  Red  River  of  the 
North. 

Aldrich,  36  miles,  is  surrounded  by 
good  land,  with  oak  and  birch  trees.  A 
rolling  prairie  is  next  passed  inter- 
spersed with  clumps  of  small  trees  and 
some  good  grass  land,  where  flowers  of 
different  colors  abound. 

Wadena  Station,  Wadena  Co.,  46 
miles  from  Brainerd,  is  surrounded  by  a 
rolling  prairie.  Many  permanent  settle- 
ments and  cultivated  fields  begin  to  ap- 
pear. 

Leaf  River  Station,  51  miles.  Here 
is  a  natural  meadow,  producing  good  hay. 
A  number  of  farm-houses  are  seen  on 
the  prairie.  Pass  a  stretch  of  land  cov- 
ered with  oak,  bass-wood,  birch,  and  ma- 
ple. Here  the  summer  days  become 
warm,  ranging  from  70°  to  90°  Fahren- 
heit. Natural  meadows  and  small  lakes 
are  seen,  with  some  good  upland,  pro- 
ducing corn,  wheat,  and  vegetables  in 
abundance. 

A  fine  prairie  of  about  15  miles  in 
length  is  next  reached,  being  in  part  set- 
tled by  German  families.  Here  they  are 
preparing  to  plant  forest  tre«B.  Soon 
cross  Otter  Tail  River,  which  was  full 
of  saw  logs,  and  a  steam  saw-mill  in 
operation.  A  charming  prospect  is  here 
aflforded  of  the  surrounding  country,  the 
prairie  being  covered  with  grass  and 
flowers  of  different  hues. 

Perham,  70  miles  from  Brainerd. 
This  is  a  small  village,  surrounded  by 
rich  prairie  land,  and  lying  almost  as 
level  as  a  barn  floor.  A  number  of 
farm-houses  are  seen  in  the  distance. 
Pass  an  extensive  wheat  field,  owned 


I 


268 


THE  NEW  NORTH-WEST. 


and  worked  by  a  German  woman  and 
her  two  daughters.  A  rolling  prairie 
with  clumps  of  trees  is  next  passed  aa 
you  proceed  westward.  Here  arc  corn 
and  wheat  fields  inclosed  by  fences. 

For  about  one  hundred  miles  east  of 
Moorhead,  on  the  Red  River,  and  for 
several  hundred  miles  north  and  south, 
is  said  to  be  a  productive  prairie  region, 
while  west  of  the  river  the  region  is 
vastly  increased,  extending  north-west 
into  the  Valley  of  the  Saskatchawan. 

HoBART,  81  miles,  is  a  small  village, 
surrounded  by  lovely  lakes  and  a  rolling 
prairie,  which  is  very  fertile,  producing 
corn,  oats,  wheat,  and  vegetables  of  al- 
most every  variety.  A  field  was  passed 
with  corn  standing  8  or  10  feet  high, 
■while  cattle  are  seen  feeding  in  rich  nat- 
ural meadows,  affording  a  most  pleasing 
prospect.  A  growth  of  hard  wood  is 
passed,  with  some  tamarack,  before  com- 
ing to  Detroit  Lake,  an  extensive  and 
beautiful  sheet  of  water,  surrounded  by 
finely -wooded  banks.  Pike,  pickerel, 
black-biuss,  and  other  fish,  besides  wild 
game,  are  here  taken  in  large  quantities. 

Frazee  City  is  a  new  settlement, 
about  one  mile  from  Hobart. 

Detroit,  capital  of  Becker  Co.,  Minn., 
92  miles  from  Brainerd  and  47  miles 
from  Moorhead,  is  a  flourishing  town, 
settled  mostly  by  a  colony  of  New  Eng- 
landers,  numbering  some  400  or  500 
souls.  Good  farming  lands  surround 
this  favored  place,  no  doubt,  soon  des- 
tined to  raise  into  importance  as  a  centre 
for  the  purchase  and  shipment  of  the 
products  of  the  adjacent  country. 

Oak  Lake,  96  miles,  is  another  fine 
body  of  water,  lying  two  miles  north  of 
the  railroad.  Here  is  a  settlement  sur- 
rounded by  a  rolling  prairie,  with  sev- 
eral small  lakes  in  view. 

Audubon,  99  miles,  is  situated  on  the 
side  of  a  beautiful  lake,  surrounded  by 
prairie  and  woodland.  This  place  is  on 
the  line  of  northern  settlements  at  the 
present  time ;  beyond  ia  an  Indian  Res- 


ervation of  considerable  extent.  Here 
are  to  be  seen  productive  corn  and  wheat 
fields.  Wild  ducks  and  prairie  chickens 
are  numerous. 

Lake  Park,  105  miles,  is  the  name 
of  a  settlement  surrounded  by  a  good 
section  of  country.  A  rolling  prairie, 
with  haycocks,  cattle,  and  dwellings,  are 
seen  in  the  distance.  Then  comes  a 
small  stretch  of  prairie,  surrounded  by 
steep  bluffs  or  hillocks  of  poor  land  ad 
you  approach  Bufiiilo  River,  a  tributary 
of  Red  River,  which  is  here  a  small 
stream.  Buffalo  bones  are  often  met 
with,  but  the  wild  animal  has  not  been 
seen  east  of  Red  River  for  the  past  eight 
or  ten  years.  Antelopes  and  elk  are  oc- 
casionally taken  in  the  winter  and  spring 
months. 

Hawley,  116  miles,  is  a  settlement 
situated  on  Buffalo  River.  Here  is  a 
beautiful  rolling  prairie,  with  small  trees 
skirting  the  river  banks.  Ducks,  geese, 
and  grouse  are  to  be  seen  in  large  num- 
bers in  the  autumn  months. 

MusKODA,  120  miles,  is  surrounded 
by  a  rolling  prairie,  where  are  to  be 
found  prairie  chickens  in  large  numbers. 
Cross  and  re-cross  the  Buffalo  River, 
here  lined  with  handsome  trees,  hanging 
over  the  stream.  Much  of  the  land  is 
under  cultivation,  stretching  as  far  as  can 
be  seen  southward.  Fierce,  driving  cold 
winds  are  said  to  sweep  over  these  prai- 
ries during  the  winter  months,  while  fires 
rage  in  the  autumn,  running  with  the 
wind  like  a  race-horse. 

Glyndon,  Clay  Co.,  Minn.,  244  miles 
west  of  Duluth,  is  handsomely  situated 
on  a  rich  prairie,  10  miles  east  of  Red 
River.  The  Branch  BaUroad  h  ere  crosses 
the  Northern  Pacific,  running  from  St. 
Cloud  to  Pembina,  situated  on  the  north- 
ern limits  of  the  United  States.  Here  is 
a  land-office,  a  hotel,  printing-office,  and 
several  stores,  together  with  a  number 
of  dwelling-houses.  Population,  500  or 
600,  being  mostly  from  the  Eastern 
States. 


f^ 


MOORHEAD  —  CLIMATIC  INFLUENCE. 


259 


A  level,  open  prairie  extends  for  many 
milea  north  and  south,  which  is  passed 
before  reaching  the  Red  River,  and  is 
fringed  by  a  belt  of  timber  as  far  as  the 
eye  c<\n  reach,  the  land  gently  falling  as 
you  approach  the  stream. 

Moorhead,  137  miles  west  of  Brain- 
erd,  and  252  miles  from  Duluth,  situated 
on  the  east  bank  of  Red  River,  at  the 
head  of  navigation,  is  the  capital  of  Clay 
Co.,  Minn.,  lying  near  the  47th  parallel. 
Here  are  located  a  depot  building,  store- 
houses, 2  churches,  6  taverns,  12  stores, 
a  printing-office,  and  a  number  of  dwell- 
ing-houses. Population  about  1000,  of 
different  nationalities,  the  whole  par- 
taking the  appearance  of  a  frontier  set- 
tlement. Here  is  a  substantial  railroad 
bridge,  about  1,200  feet  in  length,  span- 
ning the  river  bottom,  the  stream,  at  low 
water,  being  100  feet  wide,  with  a  gentle 
current  flowing  northward.  Steamers  of 
a  light  draught  run  to  Fort  Garry,  Mani- 
toba, 220  miles.  Flat-boats  and  rafts 
also  run  from  the  head  of  the  river  to 
Moorhead,  Pembina,  and  Fort  Garry. 

Fargo,  Dakota  Territory,lie3  directly 
opposite  Moorhead,  on  the  west  bank  of 
Red  River.  Here  is  built  a  station- 
house  and  work-shops  by  tlie  N.  Pacific 
R.  R.  Co.,  it  being  intended  as  their 
headquarters  for  the  Dakota  Div.  Ho- 
tels, stores,  and  dwellings  are  already 
erected,  and  others  in  the  course  of 
rapid  construction,  bidding  fair  to  be- 
come a  town  of  considerable  importance. 
A  new  and  large  hotel  has  here  been 
erected  by  the  Railroad  Company.  It  is 
north-west  of  Fargo  that  most  of  the  poor 
lands  of  Dakota  lie,  being  in  the  vicinity 
of  Minnewakan,  or  Devil's  Lake. 


Red  River  of  the  North  and  Duluth, 
.situated  at  the  head  of  Lake  Superior, 
on  the  same  line  of  latitude,  being  dis- 
tant 250  miles. 

Starting  from  l^Iocrhead,  Minn.,  lying 
near  the  47th  paralLl  of  latitude,  and 
proceeding  eastward,  you  usually  en- 
counter hot  weather  in  June,  July,  and 
August,  but  soon  after  crossing  the  Mis- 
sissippi River  at  Brainerd  you  encounter 
a  perceptible  change,  the  air  becoming 
cooler  and  crisp-like  —  the  same  ditler- 
ence  about  as  is  felt  between  the  hot  days 
of  August  and  the  cool  days  of  Septem- 
ber or  October  in  other  parts  of  the  coun- 
try. This  steady  summer  heat  of  the 
Red  River  country,  and  farther  North, 
forms  a  Climatic  Influence  that  causes 
the  New  North-west  to  be  blessed  with 
a  Siberian  Summer,  thereby  redeeming 
millions  of  acres  of  land  from  the  chill- 
ing influence  that  comes  sweeping  down 
from  Hudson  Bay,  crowding  down  the 
thermometer  or  Isothermal  line  from  the 
head  of  Lake  Superior  to  the  eastern 
Atlantic  coast.  Then,  again,  this  fa- 
vored section  of  country  has  less  fall  of 
moisture,  rain  or  snow,  during  the  win- 
ter months  than  falls  in  the  Eastern 
States,  the  usual  diflerence  being  as  two 
is  to  ten  inches  of  moisture  or  water.  This 
sanie  favorable  climatic  influence  ex- 
tends north-west  to  the  Upper  Missouri 
and  the  Valley  of  the  Saskatchawan,  in 
British  America. 


Climatic  Influence. 

It  is  difficult  to  convey  to  strangers 
the  great  diflerence  in  dimate  that  exists, 
during  the  summer  months,  between  the 


Route  from  St.  Paul  to  the  Red 
River  of  the  North. 

The  most  direct  route  from  St.  Paul 
to  the  Red  River  is  by  the  St.  Paul  and 
Pacific  Railroad,  via  Minneapolis  to 
Breckinridge,  Minn,  217  miles.  This 
route  crosses  the  State  of  Minnesota, 
running  in  a  north-west  direction,  pass- 
ing Lake  Minnetonka  and  the  Big  "V\  oods 
before  reaching  the  Red  River,  35  miles 
north  of  Traverse  Lake,  the  head  of  the 
stream. 


.J. . 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES  FROM  DULUTH  TO  BISMARCK,  DAKOTA, 
Via  Nobtueen  Pacific  Railroad. 


•*fn^' 


Minnesota  I>ivi8ion, 

Miles.  MUes. 

448    DULUTH 0 

447     Rice's  Point 1 

444    Oneota 3  4 

433    Fond  du  Lac 11  15 

425    Thomson 8  23 

424    Junction,  Lake  Superior 

and  Miss.  Railroad 1  24 

390    Sicotte's 34  58 

372    Kimberly 18  76 

3G0    Aiken 12  88 

333    Brainerd 27  115 

Mississippi  River. 

311    Motley 22  137 

286    Wadena 25  162 

273    N.  York  Mills 13  175 

263    Perham 10  185 

252    Hobart 11  196 

241    Detroit 11  207 

237    Oak  Lake 4  211 

234    Audubon 3  214 

228    Lake  Park 6  220 

217     Hawley 11  231 

204    Glyndon,    crossing     of 

Pembina  Braixh  R.  R...  13  244 

195    MOORHEAD 9  253 

Red  River  of  the  North. 


Dakota  Division, 

Miles. 

194    FARGO,  Dak 1 

183    Maple  River 11 

137     Wapeton 46 

122    Eckelson 15 

101    Jamestown 2.'. 

65     Crystal  Springs 36 

0    BISMARCK 65 

Missouri  River. 


MUes. 


254 
265 
311 
326 
347 
383 
448 


Northern     JPacific    Mailroad 
Continued  —  New  Moute. 

1.590    Bismarck 448 

1,588    Crossing  Missouri  Riv.     2       450 
1,383    Yellowstone  Riv....205       655 

Crossing  Dakota  into  Montana. 
1,043    Yellowstone  Div....340       995 
Passing  up  Yellowstone  Valley. 
845    Rocky  Mt.  Div.*....198    1,193 
563    Clark's  Fork  Div...  282    1,475 

Westei'n  Slope,  Rocky  Mountains. 
355    Pendd'OreilleDiv.208    1,683 

To  mouth  Snake  River. 
105    Columbia  Riv.  DIV...250    1,933 
Mouth  Snake  River  to  Kalama. 
0    Pacific  Division  t- 105    2,038 
Kalama  to  Tacoma,  Paget  Sound. 


*  Boseman's  Pass,  elevated  about  6,000  feet  above  the  Ocean. 
t  Finished ;  leaving  1,4S3  miles  of  Kailroad  to  be  completed. 

Note.— This  new  route  from  Bismarck  to  Puget  Soimd  increases  the  former  estimates  about 
250  miles,  thereby  obtaioing  a  better  grade. 

,  260 


RED  RIVER  OF  THE  NORTH. 


261 


Stages  run  daily  from  Breckinridge  to 
Moorhead,  40  miles,  connecting  with 
Kittson's  Ked  River  Transporta- 
tion Line  of  Steamers,  forming  a 
speedy  and  direct  route  to  Fort  Garry. 

Distance  from  St.  Paul 

To  Breckinridge,  rai/roarf  217  miles. 

"   Moorh ead,  gfarye 40      " 

"   Pembina,  steamboat.'.  156       " 
"  Fort  Garry,  "     ...    07      " 

Total 480      « 

Usual  time,  4  days;  fare,  $23. 


Red  River  of  the  North. 

This  remarkable  stream,  like  the 
"  Father  of  Waters,"  attracts  the  atten- 
tion of  the  observing  traveller  with  great 
astonishment.  Like  the  Mississippi,  it 
has  its  bottom  land  and  islands,  being 
fringed  with  a  heavy  growth  of  forest 
trees,  while  running  northward  through 
an  immense  prairie  region,  formerly  the 
favorite  abode  of  the  buffalo,  who  have 
receded  westward  with  the  onward  march 
of  civilization. 

Its  principal  head  source  is  Lake 
Traverse,  45°  30''  north  latitude,  and  its 
outlet  into  Lake  Winnipeg,*  through 
which  its  waters  flow,  is  in  51°,  thus  ex- 
tending through  five  and  a  half  degrees 

*  Lake  Winnipeg  receives  also  the  waters  of 
the  Saskatehawiin,  emptying  its  accumuhited 
waters  into  Nelson  River,  and  thence  into  Hud- 
son Bay,  in  about  57°  N.  latitude. 


of  latitude,  having  a  very  winding  course 
almost  directly  northward.  For  its  whole 
length  it  is  surrounded  by  fertile  prairies, 
which  are  now  coming  into  favorable  no- 
tice by  the  American  and  Canadian  public. 

Manitoba  is  the  field  for  Canadian  emi- 
grants, while  to  the  South  the  hardy  sons 
of  New  England  and  foreigners  from 
Northern  Europe  are  flocking  in  great 
numbers. 

The  completion  of  the  Northern  Pa- 
cific Railroad  to  the  Red  River,  and 
farther  westward,  has  given  an  impetus 
to  emigration  in  this  direction.  Villages 
and  settlements  are  springing  up  with 
great  rapidity,  which  is  destined  to  ex- 
tend northward  and  westward  as  facili- 
ties for  travel  increase,  ultimately 
stretching  north  -  westward  across  the 
Rocky  Mountains  to  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

The  good  soil  and  favorable  climate  of 
Manitoba  has  long  been  known  to  the 
Canadian  public;  but  the  want  of  rail- 
roads has  heretofore  prevented  its  rajtid 
settlement.  Now,  in  addition  to  the 
Northern  Pacific,  a  branch  railroad  is 
being  constructed  to  run  direct  from  St. 
Paul,  via  St.  Cloud,  to  Pembina,  situated 
near  the  49th  parallel,  thus,  in  connec-^ 
tion  with  the  St.  Paul  and  Pacific  Pail' 
road,  aflbrding  facilities  to  reach  any 
part  of  the  Red  River  Valley,  it  being 
now  reached  by  three  great  Lines  ot 
Travel.  In  addition  to  the  above,  the 
Winona  and  St.  Peter^s  Railroad  is  push- 
ing its  line  north-westward  to  the  sourcea 
of  the  Red  River. 


Red  River  Transportation  Line,  1874. 

MOORHEAD  TO  MANITOBA,  VIA 

Freight  and  Passenger  Steamers — International,  Dakota,  Sheyenne,  Selkirk,  and  Alpha. 


During  navigation  this  line  will  be 
ready  to  carry  freight  and  passengers 
from  Moorhead,  Minn.,  where  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railroad  crosses  the 
Red  River  of  the  North,  to  Fort  Gar- 


ry, Manitoba,  stopping  at  the  interme- 
diate landings. 

Passengers  from  St.  Paul  have  the 
choice  of  two  routes  to  Moorhead,  etc., 
viz.,  the  St.  PjtU  and  Pacific  Railroad 


ir- 


i    ■     I; 


'.M.il 


\\U4 


2G2 


THE  NEW  KORTH-WEST. 


r  • 


to  Breckinridge,  210  miles,,  thence  by 
stage  to  Moorhead,  40  miles  farther ;  or 
by  the  Lake  Superior  and  Miaeiaaippi 
Railroad  to  Northern  Pacific  Junction, 
thence  by  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  to 
Moorhead,  a  total  diHtance  of  358  miles, 
naasing  througii  Brainerd,  situated  on 
the  MissisHippi  River,  137  miles  east  of 
Moorliead. 

Distances  fbom  Moorhead  to  Fort 
Garry, 

Via  Red  River  of  the  North. 
Landings.  Miles. 

MOORUEAP 0 

Probstfields 3 

Gcorgetoim 12    15 

ElmKiver 13    28 

Goose  Rapids 14    42 

Frog  Point 10    62 

Grand  Forks 22    74 

Pembina 80  154 

Mouth  Assiniboine. 
Fort  Garry 67  221 

Distance  from  Duluth  to  Moorhead, 
252  miles.  Passengers  will  save  expense 
and  trouble  by  purchasing  through  tick- 
eta,  on  sale  at  principal  railroad  offices  in 
Canada  and  the  States. 


Objects  op  Interest. 

The  varied  scenery  on  this  route,  by 
rail  and  steamer,  is  of  the  most  interest- 
ing character,  passing  through  a  wild  and 
sparsely  populated  region,  between  the 
St.  Louis  and  Mississippi  Rivers,  then 
coming  to  a  better  section  of  level  coun- 
try, until  the  prairie  region  is  reached, 
when  a  lovely  view  is  presented  to  tie 
ob;;erving  traveller,  the  country  being 
dotted  with  small  lakes,  forest  trees,  and 
extensive  prairies  before  reaching  the 
Red  River  of  the  North,  then  beautiful 
river  scenery  for  the  remainder  of  the 
distance. 


Inducements  for  Pleasure  Travel- 
lers. 

During  the  season  of  1874  the  facili- 
ties for  reaching  Fort  Garry,  Mani- 
toba, and  Lake  Winnipeg  will  be  com- 
plete, opening  a  new  and  healthy  region, 
aboundmg  with  different  kinds  of  game, 
while  enjoying  an  invigorating  atmos- 
phere. 

The  route  to  the  Upper  Missouri  River 
is  also  completed,  distant  about  200  miles 
west  of  Moorhead.  This  noble  stream 
being  reached  by  the  " /rora  iforse,"  the 
field  for  adventure  is  illimitable.  The 
tourist  can  proceed  to  "  End  Track,"  run- 
ning toward  the  Yellowstone  River,  or 
take  a  steamer  and  proceed  to  Fort  Ben- 
ton, Montana,  or  still  farther  west  to 
the  National  Park  among  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  near  where  are  deposited 
golden  treasures,  besides  wild  river  and 
mountain  scenery  —  rapids,  falls,  and 
spouting  springs  of  fabulous  extent  and 
variety. 

From  this  time  forward  Lake  Supe- 
rior, the  Upper  Mississippi,  the  Red 
River  of  the  North,  and  the  vast  region 
drained  by  tlie  Missouri  River,  will  be 
the  great  camping-ground  of  hunters  and 
sportsmen  seeking  health  and  enjoyment 
during  the  summer  and  autumn  months. 
Outfits  will  have  to  be  prepared,  and  in 
many  instances  faithful  guides  obtained 
in  order  to  secure  safety  and  comfort.  A 
canoe  or  an  Indian  pony  would,  in  many 
instances,  be  a  necessary  appendage,  not 
forgetting  a  mosquito-net. 


Letter  from  James  River. 

"Dear  Star:  Sure  to  my  promise, 
I  will  give  you  a  brief  description  of 
this  town  and  adjoining  country,  and  will 
begin  with  the  beauty  of  the  scenery  with 
which  nature  has  seen  fit  to  embellish 
this  till  lately  unknown  country.  Stand- 
ing on  the  bluffs  that  guard  the  town  on 
all  sides,  one  has  spread  out  before  him  a 
panoramic  view  impossible  to  describe 


■  St- kfk' 1^1 


DAKOTA  —  BISMARCK. 


263 


with  justice.  To  tlie  north  may  be  seen 
the  clear  waters  of  the  beautiful  Btreain, 
as  it  wends  its  way  in  8er|)entine  folds 
over  the  inagniticent  prairie,  with  its 
banks  adorned  with  the  graceful  elms 
that  tower  their  giant  forms  far  over  the 
waters,  and  are  reflected  from  its  placid 
surface  in  magnilied  lovelineMs.  In  sjjot^ 
of  many  feet  the  foliage  is  so  luxuriant 
that  not  a  glim^  ..e  of  the  river  can  be 
obtained  till  one  stands  close  on  its 
banks,  while  at  others  the  waters  bank 
in  the  uninterrupted  rays  of  the  noonday 
Bun,  and  sparkle  with  seeming  delight  as 
the  golden  showers  fall  on  its  ripples. 
Then  agani  the  eye  can  but  at  intervals 
penetrate  the  verdure  to  have  the  waters 
meet  the  gaze,  sparkling  like  silver  stars 
and  lending  to  the  scene  a  quiet  beauty 
one  does  not  often  meet  witli.  And  so 
the  streamlet  glides  in  alternate  beauties 
till  it  is  lost  behind  the  hills,  far,  far  to 


the  south.  Jamesloum,  94  miles  west  of 
Moorhead,  is  situated  on  a  level  plain  of 
many  acres,  entirely  surrounded  by  hills 
and  trees  that  will  form  great  protection 
in  the  winter  months,  besides  giving  the 
town  a  look  of  beauty  that  surpasses  any- 
thing I  have  seen  on  the  line ;  and  since, 
I  am  informed  by  those  that  ought  to  be 
posted,  that  the  soil  for  miles  about  is  of 
good  fjuality,  I  do  not  hesitate  to  bespeak 
for  tins  place  a  prospt-ous  future.  The 
immediate  vicinity,  and  u.  ^'ir  as  the  val- 
ley is  concerned,  1  am  certain  that  vege- 
tables, and,  in  fact,  all  else,  will  flourish 
as  well  as  at  any  point  on  the  line." 

Dakota,  or  Jamea  Mirer,  flows  south 
into  the  Mipsouri  near  Yankton.  It  is 
a  long  and  large  river,  being  crossed  by 
the  railroad  about  one  hundred  miles 
west  of  Red  River,  and  in  another  hun- 
dred miles  the  Missouri  River  is  reached, 
near  the  mouth  of  Apple  Creek. 


Dakota  and  its  Agricultural  Capacities — The  City  of  Bismarck. 

Correspondonco  of  the  Detroit  Post. 

Bismarck, 


Before  the  commencement  of  opera- 
tions on  the  line  of  the  Northern  Pacific 
Railroad,  notwithstanding  portions  of  it 
are  nearer  the  East  than  any  other  Ter- 
ritory, Dakota  was  really  a  terra  incog- 
nita. No  precious  metal  had  been  dis- 
covered, 80,  in  the  absence  of  railroads 
to  connect  it  with  civilization,  its  wealth 
lay  all  hidden  and  undeveloped ;  but  now 
it  is  feeling  the  touch  that  is  quickening 
thtf  whole  North-west,  and  claims  the  at- 
tention of  all  who  are  desirous  of  being 
fully  acquainted  with  the  resources  of 
their  country. 

Here  is  an  empire  of  150,000  square 
miles,  as  large  as  New  York,  Pennsyl- 
vania, and  the  New  England  States  com- 
bined, an  unusual  proportion  of  which 
is  not  only  tillable,  but  highly  produc- 
tive. The  north-eastern  portion  has  been 
quickened  into  life  and  activity^  and 
measurably  brought  to  public  notice  by 


Dakota  Terbitory,  July  31, 1873. 

the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  which 
now  spans  200  miles  of  its  area.  Much 
has  been  said  about  the  wonderful  fertil- 
ity of  the  Red  River  Valley  in  Minne- 
sota, and  the  general  impression  has  ob- 
tained that  that  valley  is  confined  to  our 
sister  State,  but  the  truth  is  it  also  em- 
braces a  portion  of  this  territory,  200 
miles  long  by  40  miles  wide,  fully  equal 
in  agricultural  wealth  to  that  portion 
east  of  the  Red  River.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  the  north-western  quarter  of  the 
Territory,  and  the  Black  Hills  with  their 
abundant  pine,  agriculture  must  be  our 
main  reliance,  and  for  this,  notwithstand- 
ing some  few  portions  may  depend  upon 
irrigation,  and  others  be  less  valuable 
because  of  the  presence  of  alkali  in  the 
soil,  few  areas  of  equal  extent  are  so  well 
adapted  to  settlement.  The  remarkable 
net- work  of  living  brooks,  lakes,  streams, 
and  navigable  rivers,  with  which  the 


!  / 


264 


THE  NEW  NORTH-WEST. 


I' , 


region  is  Btjpplied,  in,  perhaps,  its  most 
Htriking  l-atiiri',  an  J  furnisheH  the  basis 
for  a  simple,  natural,  and  eeonoinioal  sys- 
tem of  irrigati(jn  for  the  fertile  farming 
lands  of  t'le  interior.  Where  systematic 
irrigation  has  been  practised,  it  seems  to 
be  the  uniform  testimony  that  the  greatly 
inerea;4ed  yield,  the  absolute  certainty  of 
regular  crops,  and  exemption  from  risks 
vf  damage  by  bad  weather  in  harvest 
time,  more  than  eonipensates  for  the  cost 
of  irrigating  ditches. 

Minnesota  has  outlived  the  reputation 
of  being  an  inhospitable  hyperborean 
region,  and  its  fertility  and  productive- 
ness are  now  admitted  by  all.  With  an 
average  temperature  considerably  milder 
than  tliat  of  its  sister,  nothing  can  pre- 
vent Dakota  taking  an  equally  high  agri- 
cultural rank,  if  it  be  estal)lished  that 
there  ::i  a  sufficient  amount  of  moisture  to 
insure  success  to  the  labors  of  the  farmer. 


i 


Gen.  Kosser's  Official  Report. 

Gen.  Rosser,  in  charge  of  the  railroad 
survey  of  the  Stanley  Yellowstone  li)x- 
pedition,  has  submitted  to  the  authorities 
of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Com- 
pany, in  New  York,  his  official  report  of 
the  results  th'is  far  accomplished  by  the 
expedition.  He  finds  the  new  and  final 
route  across  Western  Dakota,  from  Mis- 
souri to  the  Yellowstone  River,  entirely 
practicable  and  satisfactory,  it  l."ing 
greatly  superior  to  those  of  former  days. 
The  distance  is  205  miles,  21  miles  shorter 
than  the  survey  of  1871,  The  gradients 
are  moderate,  the  average  of  "ork  per 
mile  is  considerably  less,  the  number  of 
important  bridges  is  reduced  two-thirds, 
the  Little  Missouri  River,  which  former 
surveys  crossed  1 1  times,  is  crossed  once 
on  the  line  so  located,  and  the  route  runs 
imme<liately  through  only  one  mile  of 
the  bad  clay  lands  just  east  of  the  Little 
Missouri.  With  few  exceptions,  the 
country  is  rolling  prairie,  sometimes 
rising  into  low  hills,  the  grass  being  ex- 


cellent and  the  soil  good.  Good  water 
was  found  the  entire  distance.  Coal  out- 
crops at  various  points  in  veins  several 
feet  in  thickness,  and  timber  is  more 
abundant  than  on  former  routes.  The 
r'!i)ort  states  that  the  main  body  of  (ien- 
eral  .Stanley's  expedition  accompanied  the 
Scientific  Corps,  and  most  oi'  the  press 
correspondents  did  not  accompany  the 
engineers,  who  were  escorted  by  (iencral 
Custer's  detachment,  but  followed  the 
old  abandoned  route  south  of  Heart 
River,  hence  clescriptions  of  the  region 
traversed  by  the  main  command  do  not 
apply  to  the  country  traversed  by  the 
new  route  for  the  railroad.  The  direc- 
tors of  the  company  have  accepted  the 
new  line  recommended  by  Gen.  Rosser 
from  Bismarck,  the  present  end  of  the 
track,  to  the  Yellowstone  crossing,  and 
have  called  for  proposals  to  grade  and 
bridge  this  section  of  205  miles.  The 
expedition  is  now  prosecuting  the  survey 
westward  up  the  left  bank  of  the  Yellow- 
stone to  I'ompey's  Pillar,  where  it  will 
join  the  survey  made  last  year  from  the 
west,  and  thus  complete  the  surveyed 
line  across  the  continent. 


Bismarck,  Burleigh  Co.,  Dakota^ 
situated  on  east  bank  of  the  Missouri 
River,  opposite  Fort  Abraham  Lincoln, 
is  tiie  present  terminus  of  the  Northern 
Pacific  Railroad,  450  miles  west  of  Du- 
luth.  It  lies  about  800  miles  above  Sioux 
City,  by  water,  and  1,100  miles  below 
Fort  Benton,  Montana.  The  distance  to 
St.  Louis  by  the  Missouri  River  is  about 
1,800  miles,  making  2,900  miles  naviga- 
tion from  head  of  navigation  to  its  mouth, 
by  a  circuitous  rout').  The  town  con- 
tains a  church,  a  bank,  several  pultlic 
houses,  stores  and  warehouses,  and  about 
1,000  inhabitants. 

The  distance  from  Bismarck  to  St. 
Paul,  via  Moorhead,  is  460  miles;  St. 
Paul  to  Chicago,  410  miles;  Chicago  to 
St.  Louis,  280  miles^  making  the  total 
railroad  route  from  Bismarck  to  St.  Louis 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES— MISSOURI  RIVER. 


266 


1,150  miles,  or  1,770  mileH  to  the  city  of 
Isew  York,  all  rail.  ThiiH  oi)eni!ig,  by 
means  of  Hteamers,  an  immeiiHe  region 
of  country  during  the  BeaHon  of  naviga- 
tion, which  UHually  lasts  from  the  middle 
of  April  to  the  middle  of  November. 


Steamers  Running  on  the  Upper 
Missouri  River. 

There  are  now  two  Lines  of  Steamem 
running  from  Bismarck,  Dakota,  to  Car- 
roll and  Fort  Benton,  Montana,  carrying 
passengers  and   freight,   besides    other 

eamers  from  Omaha,  Sioux  City,  and 
ports  on  the  Lower  Missouri. 

The  Bteamers  leaving  Bismarck,  the 
present  terminus  of  the  Northern  Pacific 
Railroad,  run  to  Carroll,  280  miles  below 
Fort  Benton,  connecting  with  a  wagon 
road  extending  to  Helena,  Mont.,  250 
miles.  This  new  route  is  now  becoming 
very  popular,  reducing  the  time  and  ex- 
pense about  one-half  over  the  old  route  via 
the  Union  Pacific  Railroad,  and  by  stage 
road  from  Corinne,  Utah,  to  Montana. 


Table  of  Distances 

From  Bismauck,  Dakota,  to  Helena, 
Montana,  by  Steamboat  and  Stage. 

Miles. 

0 

60 

54  114 

15  129 

40  169 

80  249 

70  319 

75  394 

6  400 

5  405 

25  430 

........  38  468 

13  481 

25  50G 

65  561 

20  581 

16  597 

63  660 

20  680 

50  730 

, 60  780 

60  840 


Bismarck 

Fort  dark 

Fort  Stevenson 

Fort  lierthold 

Little  Missouri  River 

White  Earth  River 

Big  Muddy  River 

Fort  Bujord 

Mouth  Yellowstone 

Fort  Union 

Little  Muddy  River 

Dawson's  Bend 

Big  Muddy  River 

Fort  Peck 

Poplar  River 

Disaster  Bend 

Mitchell's  Bend 

Milk  River 

Dry  Fork 

Harvey's  Point 

Rouncl  Butte 

Muscle  Shell  River 

Carroll,  steamboat  landing,  280 
miles  below  Fort  Benton 


40    880 


Fort  Benton,  Mont 1,160 


The  Missouri  and  Yellowstone  Rivers. 


The  Missouri  River,  soys  the  late 
Prof.  J.  W.  Foster,  is  the  longest  afflu- 
ent of  the  Mississippi  —  though  the  vol- 
ume of  water  discharged  is  not  so  great 
as  that  of  the  Oliio  —  and  by  reason  of 
its  length  ought  to  be  regarded  as  the 
main  stream.  It  has  its  source^;  in  lon- 
gitude 112°  and  latitude  47°,.wherc  they 
nearly  interlock  with  those  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, —  the  only  river  which  rises  in 
the  Rocky  Mountains  and  breaks  through 
the  lowest  Ranges,  in  the  vast  extent  from 
British  Columbia  to  Mexico,"  Standing 
on  the  summit  at  any  point,  Captain 
MuUan  remarks,  you  can  see  the  waters 
that  flow  into  two  oceans  ;  and  no  where 


on  the  continent  do  we  find  such  a  per- 
fect network  of  water-courses. 

The  Yellowstoni-:,  rising  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  in  Montana  and  Wy- 
oming Territories,  is  the  principal  afflu- 
ent of  the  Missouri,  whose  volume,  as 
estimated  by  Gen.  Warren,  is  as  large 
as  that  which  is  considered  the  mam 
stream ;  and  Jefferson,  Madison  and 
Gallatin  Forks,  are  by  no  means  incon- 
siderable streams.  In  connection  with 
Yellowstone  Lake  and  the  Geysers,  here 
is  a  field  for  ex  i>l  oration  far  more  im- 
I)ortant,  to  Americans,  than  the  sour'^a 
of  the  Nile  or  the  mountains  of  the 
Moon  in  Africa. 


i 


i 


ACCESS  TO  THE  YELLOWSTONE  PARK. 


•  Copied  from  Prof.  F.  V.  Hayden's  Report,  1873. 

"As  the  Park  will  soon  become  an  object  of  general  interest,  and  be  the  resort 
of  thousands  of  visitors,  the  question  of  proper  and  convenient  access  is  of  great 
importance  at  present.  A  journey  by  wagon  from  the  Central  Pacific  or  Northern 
Pacific  Railroads  would  prove  long  and  tedious ;  we  must,  therefore,  look  for  a 
railroad  to  carry  tourists  within  a  much  shorter  distance  from  the  Park,  allowing, 
if  any,  but  one  or  two  days  journey  by  wagon.  A  project  for  such  a  railroad  has 
already  been  conceived,  but  encountered  pecuniary  difficulties  sufficient  to  impede 
its  immediate  'construction.  This  line  would  become  the  main  route  connecting 
the  Central  Pacific  or  Union  Pacific  Railroad  with  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad^ 
and  also  furnish  the  best  means  of  reaching  the  land  of  wonders,"  the  great 
National  Park,  situated  in  the  north-west  portion  of  the  Territory  of  Wyoming. 

The  best  route  at  the  present  time  is  by  stage  from  Corinne,  Utah,  to  Yellow- 
Btone  Lake. 

The  following  are  the  Distances  and  Elevations  on  this  Route : 

•Miino     Miles  from    Elevation 
mica.     Corinne.        iu  feet. 

Corinne  to  Henry's  Fork  Valley 0  145  5,130 

Falls  River 13  158  5,670 

Entrance  to  Pass 20  178  6,950 

Beulah  Lakes 6  184  7,525 

Union  Fork 6  190  7,800 

Lewis  Lake 11  201  7,828 

Hot  Springs,  Yellowstone  Lake 8  209  7,788 

Yellowstone  Falls 30  239  7,700 

Lower  Geyser  Basin,  by  another  route 275  7,260 

Upper  Geyser  Basin,  '^        "  "    283  7,390 

For  further  information,  see  the  Sixth  Annual '  Report  of  the  United  States 
Geological  Survey  of  the  Territories,  by  Pro£  Hayden,  United  States  Geologist. 

266 


j 

1 

,  -l 

-■', .-  ^ 

1' 

1 

1 

.,,.,, 

1 

1 

PENNSYLVANIA 

RAILROAD, 


THE  GREAT  TRUNK  LINE 

AND 

United  States  Mail  Boute 

BETWEEN  THE 

ATLANTIC  SEABOARD  AND  THE  MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY; 
ALSO,  THE  GREAT  LAKES  AND  CANADA, 

BY  MEANS  OF  ITS  CONNECTIONS. 

This  is  the  most  splendidly  equipped  and  best  constructed 

RAILWAY  LINE  IN  THE  WORLD. 

It  is  Double  Track  and  Stone  Ballasted,  and  is  laid  with  Solid  Sleepers  and 
heavy  Steel  Rails  between  New  York  and  Pittsburgh.  The  Bridges  are  of  Iron 
and  Stone,  and  all  material  used  in  construction  is  subjected  to  the  closest  inspec- 
tion and  highest  tests.  The  Westinghouse  Air  Brake  is  attached  to  all  Passenger 
Trains,  and  the  system  of  Safety  Signals  is  perfect. 

Pullman  Drawing-room,  Sleeping,  and  Parlor  Cars  are  run  on  all  Express 
Trains  from  New  York  and  Philadelphia  to  Chicago,  Cincinnati,  Louisville, 
Indianapolis,  and  St.  Louis  without  change. 

The  scenery  on  this  route,  for  grandeur,  beauty  and  variety,  is  unsurpassed  in 
America.  All  who  contemplate  a  Trip  Across  the  Continentf  should 
travel  over  this  famous  Line. 

THROUGH  TICKETS 

\'oT  Bale  at  the  LOWEST  RATES,  at  all  the  principal  Ticket  Offices  of  the 
Company. 

A.  J.  CASSATT,  General  Manager. 
D.  M.  BOYD,  Jr.,  Gen'l  Pass.  Agent. 


Philadelphia,  May,  1874. 


267 


ERIE  RAILWAY 


This  popular  Railway,  extending  from  the  City  of  New  York,  forms  the  most 
direct  and  speedy  route  through  New  Jersey  and  Southern  New  York  to 

ROCHESTER,  BUFFALO,  NIAGARA  FALLS  &  DUNKIRK, 

Connecting  at  tliese  several  points  with  Bailroads  running  to 

CANADA  ON  THE  NORTH-WEST, 

AND  TO 

mm,  &c.  ON  THE  S0UTH-WEST, 

FORMING,  IN  CONNECTION  WITH  OTHER  RAILROADS, 

Through  Lines  of  Travel 

TO 

DETROIT,  CHICAGO,  CliEVEI^AND, 

COIiUJflBIJSI,  CINCINNATI,  and  ST,  I^OCIS. 

For  good  unanagententf  low  rates  of  fare,  suitable  equipment, 
regularity  in  the  running  of  trains,  and  variety  and  richness 
of  scenery,  this  Railway  cannot  he  excelled. 

Two  of  the  finest  TEIPS  on  this  Continent,  if  not  in  the  World,  are  those  afforded 
by  the  Erie  Railway:  1st.  From  New  York  to  Niagara  Falls,  and  thence  via 
Lake  Ontario  and  the  River  St.  Lawrence  to  Montreal  and  Quebec. — 2d.  From  New 
York  to  Buffalo  or  Cleveland,  and  thence  via  Lake  Erie  to  Detroit,  proceeding 
through  the  Upper  Lakes  to  the  Saut  Ste.  Marie,  Marquette,  Duluth,  etc. 

Other  pleasure  trips  of  almost  equal  interest  are  afforded  by  means  of  numerous 
connections  with  Railroads  and  Steamboat  Lines  running  to  Fashionable  Resorts, 
both  in  the  United  States  and  Canada. 

PRINCIPAL  TICKET  OFFICES. 

241  Broadway,  N,  Y. ;  Depot,  foot  of  Chambers  St. ;  Depot,  foot  of  Twenty-third  St. 

JOHN  N.  ABBOTT, 

General  Passenger  Agent,  New  York. 

PHILADELPHIA  TICKET  OFFICE,  732  Chestnut  Street. 

268 


i.i.i-.4'  -  1 


FOR  LAKE  SUPERIOR 


A^^RD' 


LAKE  COMPANY. 

This  Line,  composed  of  ten  first-class  Steamers,  will  run  fronx  Buffalo  to 
Duluthf  and  intermediate  points,  and  make  five  departures  each  week  from  each 
end  of  the  route.  Connects  at  Buffalo  with  the  New  York  Central  Kailroad,  for 
all  points  East,  and  at  Duluth  with  the  NorMiern  Pacific  and  Lake  Superior  and 
Mississippi  Eailroads,  for  all  points  in  Minnesota,  Manitoba,  and  the  North-west. 
One  of  the  Passenger  Steamers  will  leave  Buffalo  every  Sunday,  Tuesday, 
and  Thursday — Cleveland,  every  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday — Detroit, 
every  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday,  and  touch  at  Port  Huron,  Sarnia,  and 
Grand  Trunk  Railroad,  on  the  mornings  following  the  departures  from  Detroit. 
For  information  apply  to 

CHARLES  E.  SLACK,  Foot  of  Mississippi  St.,  Buffalo,  N.  Y. 
L.  L.  DAVIS  &  CO.,  Foot  of  St.  Clair  St.,  Cleveland,  Ohio. 
BUCKLEY  &  CO.,  Foot  of  First  St.,  Detroit,  Mich. 
JOHN  GORDON,  Duluth,  Minn. 

Or  to  EBER  WARD,  Manager, 

OFFICE,  Foot  of  First  St.,  Detroit,  Mich. 
269 


I    ',1 


i.j*«  I.  J 


!l 


Lake  Superior  Royal  Mail  Line, 

IN  CONNECTION  WITH  THE 

Northern  Railway  of  Canada. 

This  Line  embraces  Three  Magnificent,  Fint-Class,   Upper  Cabin,  Side-Wheel 

Steamers,  viz. : — 

OHIOORA,  OUMBERLAITD,  and  PRANCES  SMITH. 

Leaving  Colmngwood  every  Tuesday  and  Friday  for  Otven  Sound,  Byng 
Inlet,  Killarney,  Little  Current,  Spanish  River,  Bruce  Mines,  Saillt  Ste.  Marie, 
Point  Aux  Pins,  Batchewanung,  Michipecoten,  St.  Ignace,  Pic,  Neepigon,  Silver 
Islet,  Port  William,  Marquette,  and  Duluth. 

Connecting  at  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  with  the  American  Daily  Line  Steamers 
for  all  ports  on  South  Shore  of  Lake  Superior.  Connecting  at  Duluth  with 
the  Lake  Superior  &  Mississippi  Railway,  for  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis,  and  with 
the  Northern  Pacific  Railway  for  Mookhead,  on  Red  River;  thence  by  Kittson's 
Line  of  Steamers  for  Port  Garry  and  Province  of  Manitoba. — Connection  also 
at  Fort  William  with  the  Canadian  Oovemment  Overland  Route  to  Fort 
Garry,  via  Lake  of  the  Woods. 


During  the  Summer  Months,  greatly  reduced  rates  from  Toronto  to  Silver 
Islet,  Fort  William,  Neepigon,  dc,  will  be  made. 

This  Line  and  Koute  possess  great  attractions.  For  the  Tourist  and  Pleasure- 
Seeker  the  trip  is  one  of  the  finest  that  can  be  made;  the  scenery  is  most 
picturesque  in  character,  and  is  not  excelled  by  any  in  America ;  whilst  the 
pure,  bracing  atmosphere  offers  great  attraction  to  the  Southern  Tourist. 

The  Kound  Trip  of  Lake  Superior,  by  this  Route,  can  be  made  by  transfer  from 
the  American  Line,  at  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  Marquette,  or  Duluth  to  the  Canadian 
Line,  for  the  North  Shore;  and  thence,  via  Collinowood  and  the  Northern 
Railway,  to  Toronto,  and  East  and  South  by  Lake  Ontario  and  River  St.  Lawrence 
for  Niagara,  Montreal,  Quebec,  JVhite  ^fountains,  Boston,  New  York,  &c., — afford- 
ing one  of  the  most  picturesque  and  attractive  routes  on  the  American 
Continent. 

For  further  information,  address 

General  Agent  Northern  Bailroad,  Toronto,  Oan. 
270 


fluluth  ^dke  fSransportation  jgo. 

L^KE  SUPERIOR 


South  Shore  Line  Passenger  Steamers 

THE  ISPLENDID  PASSENGER  STEAMERS 

MANISTEE      and      METROPOLIS,      • 


Capt.  J.  McKAT, 


Capt.  B.  ATKIJ!«r8, 


WILL  FORM  A  SEMI- WEEKLY  LINE  BETWEEN 

Duluth,  Bayfield,  Ashland,  Ontonagon,  Isle  Royale, 
Eagle  River,  Eagle  Harbor,  Houghton,  Han- 
cock, L'Anse,  and  Marquette. 

THIS  IS  THE  ONLY  LINE 

That  makes  all  Landings  each  way  at  points  where  Coppkr  and  Iron  Mines  are 
located,  theret)y  afibrding  Pleasure-seekers  and  Business  Men  facilities  with  much 
less  Lake  travel  than  by  other  Lines. 

TICKETS 

Can  be  purchased  in  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis,  and  Stillwater,  of  Agents  of  the 
Northern  Pacific  and  L.  S.  &  M.  Railroad  Companies. 

JJ®*  For  farther  information,  passage  or  freight,  apply  to  or  address 

W.  B.  STONE  A  CO.,  Amenta,  Duluth, 
F.  B.  SPEAB  A  CO.,  Marquette, 
JAMES  A.  CLOSE,  Hancock, 
J.  B.  STURGIS,  Houghton, 
BA1.ET  A  SUAPI.£T,  Eagle  Harbor, 


WIIiliARD  A  MEBCEB,  Ontonagon, 

THOS.  S.  KING,  Minneapolis,  No.  5,  under 
Nicollet  Hotel, 

CHAS.  TH[01IIPS0N,  West  Wisconsin  Of- 
fice, cor.  Third  and  Jackson  Sts.,  St.  Paul,  or  to 


JOHN  GORDON,  Manager, 

DULUTH.  MINN. 
271 


I     ) 


)«Wi 


i^l^ii^. 

fry' 

STEAMBOAT  LINE— .1874. 


L'Anse,  Houghton  &  Hancock 


ItlG 


DAILY  LINE  TO  AND  FROM  L'ANSE, 

Passing  through  Portage  Lake  and  Keweenaw  Bay. 

THE    SPLENDID    SIDE-^VHEEL    STEAMER 

"  IVANHOE,"  Capt.  McCuUough, 

Will  leave  Sancoch  and  Houghton  every  morning,  connecting  with  the 
afternoon  train  at  L'Anse  for  Marquette,  and  all  points  East. 

EETURNING,  leave  L'Anse  in  the  afternoon,  giving  from  two  to  three  hours 
at  L'Anse  each  way  —  forming  a  most  delightful  Excursion. 

GUCK  BROS.  &  MEADS,  ~~ 

DEALERS   IN 

Drugs,  Chemicals,  Patent  Medicines 

SOAPS, 
TOILET  ARTICLES,  SPONGES 

SB'S*  fig*  «r 


Hair  Oils,  Flesh  Towels, 

OLOOKS,  WATCHES,  JEWELEY, 

Silver  ^i\(^  Pl^te(3.  Wg^re, 

CANDIES, 

STATIONERY  AND  SPORTING  GOODS, 

And  Fine  Cigars. 

L'ANSE,  MICH. 


DRUGGIST 


AND 


Bookseller, 

Wholesale  and  Retail 

PERFUMERIES, 

stationery,  etc.,  etc.. 
Main  St.,  L'Anse,  L.  S., 


272 


nv^iomo-j^isr. 


T  I 

hh 

CLEVELAND,  OHIO. 


9 


t 


THE  LARGEST  AND  BEST  LOCATED 

FIRST-CLASS    HOTE 

IN  THE  CITY. 


THE  WIOOELL  HOUSE 

Is  not  excelled  by  any  in  the  IVest  for  it»  Comfortable 
Beds,  its  well  supplied  Table,  it»  attentive  Servants* 

This  House  is  graded  in  Price  from  THREE  to  TWO  Dollars  per  day. 

NO  RUNNERS  ARE  EMPLOYED,  AND  TRAVELLERS  MAY  DEPEND  UPON  ALL 
THE  COMFORTS  OF  A  WELL  REGULATED  HOUSE. 

R.  A.  GILLETTE, 

I'BOPIilUTOB. 

Cleveland,  0.,  April,  1874. 

273 


li.t 


Mi^BI^&M   IX^S&M^l, 


^*K 


JEFFERSON   AVENUE,       .      .      .      .      DETROIT,   MICHIGAN. 

KDWARD   LYON.       J    proprietor. 
This  Is  a,  large  and  well-kept  HOnTSSIj,  situated  near  the  Steamboat  Ijandlnsrs. 

TORONTO,  ONTARIO. 


This  Favorite  and  Firet-Claas  Hotel,  situated  on  the 

COBNEB  OF  mmQ  AEB  YQEE  aTEEEW, 

Is  a  large  and  roomy  edifice,  affording  every  comfort  desired 

by  the  Travelling  Public. 


An  0mnil)us  runs  to  and  from  the  Bailroad  Depots  and  Steamboat  Landings. 


>>? 


GEORGE  P.  SHEARS, 

274  Proprietor. 


ST.  LAWHENCE   HALL, 

MONTREAL. 


This  Rpleudid  Hotel,  which  is  situated  in  the  most  beautiful  part  of  the  City  of 
Montreal,  near  the  Banks  and  Post-Oflice,  is  furnished  throughout  in  the  best  style 
of  the  New  York  and  Boston  Hotels,  and  comprises  a 

DINING  SALOON  AND  CONCERT  ROOM, 

unequalod  by  any  Hotel  in  Canada. 

^"  The  TABLE  will  receive  special  attention,  with  the  view  of  rendering  It 
equal,  if  not  superior,  to  any  in  America. 

BLOT  AMB  OQILB  BA'TIELB 

can  be  had  at  all  hours ;  and  an  Omnibus  will  always  be  iu  attendance  on  tht 
arrival  or  departure  of  Railway  Cars  and  Steamboats. 

P.  GEBIKEN,  Proprietor. 


f 


UEIH 


5i 


OflL 


TOHOHTO,  OHTAHIO. 


This  Popular  HOTEL  is  Delightfully  Situated, 

FACING  TORONTO  BAY. 

THOMAS  McQAW,  Manager.  Capt.  THOMAS  DICK.  Prop'r. 

THE  QUEEN'S  ROYAL  NIAGARA  HOTEL, 

NIAGARA^  OHTARIO, 

Is  Handsomely  Situated  near  the  Steamboat  Landing,  at  the 
MOUTH  OP  THE  NIAGARA  RIVER. 


HENRY  WINNETT, 


Managar, 


275 


Capt.  THOMAS  DICK, 

Propriator. 


:■'■ 


I 


E. 


g®i  nm 

MACKINAC,  MICH., 

A.  FRANKS,  PEOPRiin'OR. 


9 


-•^ 


This  old  and  favorite  Hotel  ]&  most  delightfully  sitimted  on  the  romantic  Island 
OF  Mackinac,  within  a  short  distance  of  the  water's  edge,  and  contiguous  to  the 
Arched  Rock,  Sugar  Loa^  and  other  Natural  Curiosities  in  which  this  famed 
Island  abounds  ;  being  alil^e  celebrated  for  its  pure  air,  romantic  scenery,  and  fish- 
ing grounds. 

Mackinac,  Jtdy,  1874. 


CHIPPEWA  HOUSE, 

S^TJT  STE   Mi^RIE, 

MICHIQ-AN. 


This  favorite  Hotel  is  pleasantly  situated,  near  the  Steamboat  Landings,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Ship  Canal,  and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Fort  Brady. 
No  section  of  country  exceeds  the  Sax3t  and  its  vicinity  for 

Fishing,  Hunting,  or  Aquatic  Sports* 

The  table  of  the  Hotel  is  daily  supplied  with  delightful  White  Fish,  and  '^thei 
varieties  of  the  season,  no  pains  being  spared  to  make  this  house  a  comfortabU 
home  for  the  pleasure-traveler  or  man  of  business. 

H.  P.  SMITH,  rropricf-or 

27G  ' 


EXCELSIOR 

LIVERY  STABLES. 

FREEMAN  &  BROTHER, 

PROPRIETORS, 
FRONT  STREET,  MARQUETTE,  MICH., 

Nearly  opposite  First  National  Bank. 

XIXOBc  tMIi   tJS-ox 

CARRIAGES,  BUGGIESiSADDLE  H0R8E8 

TO  LET  AT  REASONABLE  RATES. 


Supplied  with  Conveyances  and  Guides  to  the  best  Fishing  Grounds. 


m  i^AS©  sip'i'^EJEi'Oa^  S0BMSI: 


AT 


B.  F,  CHILD'S  GALLERY, 

MARQUETTE,  L.  S. 

Tourists  and  Visitors  will  find  a  Large  Collection  of  Stereoscopic  Views  of  all  Points  of  Interest  on 
LAKE  SUPERIOR,  SAUT  STE.  MARIE  RIVER  AND  MACKINAC, 

Including  the  Celebrated  Pictured  Rocks,  the  Copper  and  Iron  Mines,  Indian  Views,  etc. 

Call  and  examine  whetlieir  yon  wish  to  pnrchofie  or  not. 

XlA.'FO'S/rj^lSn!  to  VISITOE/S. 

a  N.  CONKLIN 

Has  the  Largrest  Stock  of  Specimens  on  Lake  Superior,  consiatiner  of 

ALSO,  A  FINE  ASSORTMENT  OF 

Solid  Gold  Jewelry,  Silverware,  Ac- 
front  ST.,  MARQUETTE,  MICH, 

277 


First  National  Bank, 

NEGAUNEE,  MARQUETTE  CO.,  MICHIGAN. 


H.  E.  HAYDON,  President. 

F.  E.  SNOW,    - 


JOHN  B.  MAAS,  Vice-Pres. 
-    Cashier. 


CAPITAL,  ONE  HUNDMED  THOUSAND  JDOLLABS, 


This  Bank  is  now  ready  for  business,  and  solicits  the  patronage  of  the  public.    Its 
aflairs  will  be  conducted  in  a  manner  strictly  in  accord  with  safe  banking. 

A  SPECIALTY  WILL  BE  MADE  OF 

FOREIGN  EXCHANGES  AND  PASSAGE  TICKETS. 

Exchanges  available  at  all  points  East  and  West, 

Collections  entrusted  to  our  care  will  receive  prompt  and  careful  attention, 

HAYDON'S 


H.  E.  HAYDON,  President. 


NEIL  CAMPBELli,  Cashier. 


Foreign  and  Domestic  Exchange 

FOR  SALE  AT  LOWEST  CURRENT  RATES. 

P^SSi^GE  TICKETS 

To  and  from  the  Old  Country  by  ail  the  First  Class  Lines. 

Parties  wishing  to  send  money  abroad,  or  who  desire  to  bring  out  their  friends, 
will  always  save  money  by  purchasing  DRAFTS  or  TICKETS  at  this  Bank. 

A  GENEBAL  BANKING  BUSINESS  TBANSACTED. 

278 


J.  B.  SMITH  Zc  CO., 

Merchants,  Forwarders,  and  Agents, 

L'ANSE,  LAKE  SUPERIOR,  MICHIGAN. 
GOODS  AT  WHOLESALE  AND  RETAIL. 

Stock  cansisUnff  of  J>rj/  Goods,  Ctroceriea,  Provisions,  Boots  and  Shoes,  Clothing, 
Mats  and  Caps,  Furniture,  Crockery,  Sasfi  and  Doors,  lAnie,  Orain,  Fvvd, 
Say,  and  a  large  and  complete  Stock  of  Mining  Supplies  of  every  descrip- 
tion} Onk  lAunher,  Stove  and  Stannihoat  Coal,  Fire  lirick,  Cotmnon 
Jirickf  and  all  heavy  articles  freighted  by  vessel,  sold  in 

LARGE  OR  SMALL  QUANTITIES. 

SP»EOIA.L  A.aEisrTS 

For  Hazard's  Rifle  and  Blasting  Powder,  Superior  Safety  Fuse,  St.  Clair  River 
Turned  Mining  and  Axe  Helves,  Steinway  Pianos  at  N.  Y.  prices,  etc. 

J".  B.  sis/ria?x3:  &  o  o., 

L'ANSE,  HOUGHTON  CO. 


0.  E.  HOLLAND. 


T3:(DXjX^JL1<T1D  &  soott. 


J.  N.  SOOTT. 


DEALERS  IN 


SHELF  AND  HEAVY  HARDWARE, 

SHIP  CHANDLERY  GOODS, 

AND  MANUFACTURERS  OF 

TIN,  COPPER  AND  SHEET-IRON  WARE, 

L'ANSE,  L.  S.,  MICHIGAN. 
BltANCB  STORE,  MICHIGAMME,  MICIT. 

Agents  for  Falrbank's  Standard  Scales,  Broad's  Patent  Cant-Hooks,  Pike  Poles,  Hall's  Safes,  etc. 

_  i.    J.   J>ECOTEAU  &  C07, 

DEALER  IN 

GENERAL  GROCERIES,  PROVISIONS 

AND  ALL  KINDS  OF 

VESSELS   SUPPLIED. 

'     279 


i^;!; 


'  i' 


LIST  OF  BOOIIS  AND  MAPS 

CX)MPILED  AND  FOR  SALE  BY 

J.  DISTUBNELL, 

No.  17  Booth  Steth  Street,  Pblladelphia,  (np  stairs.) 


MISSISSIPPJ 


Unibraoing  a  Description  of  ZiaJces 
Superior,  Huron,  Michigan,  JEirie, 
and  Ontario;  Commerce  of  the 
Xiukea,  tic. ;  forming  a  Complete  Guide 
for  tho  Pleasure  Traveller  ;  with  Map  and 
Illustrations.    Prick,  $a.(K),  bound  in  cloth. 

Lake  Superior  Ouide,  giving  a  full  Do- 
ficription  of  tho  Oujects  of  Interest  and 
Places  of  Rksoet  on  this  great  Inland  Sea 
— its  Cities,  VillaRes,  Mineral  Locations,  &c. 
With  Township  Map.    Price,  ll.OO. 

Ttnvnahip  Map  of  the  Lake  Superior 
Jtegiftn  and  Upper  Mississippi  Val- 
ley ;  showing  tho  Copper,  Iron,  Silver,  and 
Gold  Fields  on  tho  Soutli  and  North  Shores 
of  Lake  Supxbioh.  Price,  75  cents,  pocket 
form. 


Across  the  Continent  and  Around 
the  World — Disturnell's  Railroad  and 
Steamship  Guide  ;  giving  tho  Great  Lines 
OP  Travel  Auodnd  the  World;  also,  other 
Useful  Information  relating  to  Railroads, 
Steamship  Lines,  Telegraph  Lines,  4c. 
With  Map  of  the  World,  on  Mercator's  Pro- 
jection.   Price,  50  cents. 

United  States  Hegiater,  or  Blue  Booh 
for  1874,  containing  the  Army  and  Navt 
List,  Judiciary,  Ac;  together  with  Infor- 
mation relating  to  tho  States  and  Terri- 
tories, with  tho  Census  of  1870;  also,  re- 
lating to  tho  Dominion  op  Canada,  and 
other  portions  of  the  Continent  of  America. 
Price,  $2M,  in  cloth  binding. 

Official  Census  of  the  United  States 

and  Territories,  by  Counties,  Ac,  for 
1860  and  1S70,  and  of  tho  Dominion  op 
Canada,  from  the  latest  enumeration ;  also, 
tho  Constitution  of  the  United  States, 
and  Amendments.  Price,  75  cents,  in  cloth. 

Influence  of  Climate  in  North  and 
South  America,;  showing  the  varied  in- 
fluences operating  in  tho  Ijquatorial,  Tropi- 
cal, Sub-Tropical,  Temperate,  Cold  and  Frigid 
Zones,  extending  from  the  Arctic  to  the 
Antarctic  Circle ;  accompanied  by  an  Agri- 
cultural and  Isothermal  Map  of  North 
America.    Price,  $4.00,  cloth  binding. 

The  Post-Offiee  Directory  for  the 
United  States  and  Canada,  with  a 
Supplement  containing  the  Now  Post-Offices 
of  the  United  States,  corrected  to  April  Ist, 
1873.  Price,  $3.00,  in  cloth  binding ;  $2.25 
in  paper  covers.  , 


MAILED  FREE  OF  POSTAGE.' 

Philadelphia,  May,  1874. 

280 


iiF 


LAKE  SUFERIOE  STEAMERS-1874. 

Tie  Union  SteaiMt  Co.  and  Atlantic,  Dnlntli  &  Pacific  Lale  Co. 

Will  run  the  followig  SPLENDID  PASSENiJKR  STEAMERS: 

WlNSLiOW,    Capt.  Ben.  AVllklns.         I         PACIFIC,  Capt.  Clias.  AlcCrea. 

ARCTIC,  Capt.  Fred.  iii.  Miller.        |         ATLANTIC,      Capt.  Ed.  Mooiiey. 

FROM 

Buffalo,  Srie,  Cleveland,  Detroit,  Sarnia  and  Fort  Hnron, 

TO 

8AVT  ST.  MARIE,  MARQUETTE,  L'ANSE,  HOUGHTON  AND  HANCOCK. 

Tri]>3  of  AVlnslow  and  Pacific  will  alHO  extend  tu  Isle  Royal«. 

W,  BUIiIiARD,  Gen'l  Manager,  U.  S.  Co., 

No,  5  Ohio  Stbket,  Buffalo. 

K.  T.   £VANS,  Manager,  A.,  D.  &,  P.  Li.  Co., 

Atlantic  Dock,  Buffalo. 
J.  J.  WADSWORTH,  Erie,  Pa. 

IIANNA  &,  CO.,  53  River  St.,  Cleveland,  O. 

J.  T.   WHITING,  General  Agent, 

Foot  First  Stbskt,  Dktkoit,  Mich. 


New  Uoute  from  Detroit  to  Mackinac  and  Lake  Superior. 


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The  Detroit,  Lansing  and  Lake  Michigan  Railroad  Company  have  effected  arrange- 
ments for  opening  up  a  new  route  of  travel  to  Mackinac  and  the  Upper  I'eninsula, 
which  cannot  fail  to  be  highly  advantageous  to  Detroit,  and  which,  for  the  purpose 
of  pleasure  travel  will  far  surpass  almost  any  other  route.  The  arrangements  refer- 
red to  have  been  entered  into  with  the  Grand  Rapids  and  Indiana  Railroad,  by 
which  close  connections  will  be  made  at  Howard,  and  from  which  point  passengers 
will  be  taken  direct  to  Petosky,  on  Little  Traverse  bay,  and  thence  by  steamboat 
to  Mackinac,  60  miles;  or,  if  they  prefer,  they  can  go  to  Traverse  City,  on 
Grand  Traverse  bay,  thence  to  Escanaba,  100  miles,  by  boat,  and  from  Escanaba  to 
Marquette,  situated  on  Lake  Superior,  by  rail.  This  route  will  shorten  the  present 
all  rail  route  to  Marquette  from  Detroit,  at  least  twenty-four  hours,  besides  shorten- 
ing the  time  of  reaching  Mackinac. 

Pullman  Palace,  drawing-room  and  sleeping  coaches  will  be  attached  to  each  pas- 
senger train  leaving  Detroit  at  twenty-flve  minutes  past  three,  p.  m.,  and  tliey  will 
go  all  tlie  way  through.  The  beds  of  the  two  roads  mentioned  are  very  smooth,  and 
the  roads  pass  through  one  of  the  most  fertile  and  attractive  portions  of  MiciUgan. 
The  roads  are  well  officered,  and  for  comfort  and  convenience  are  unexcelled  in  the 
country.  The  time  occupied  in  reaching  Mackinac,  by  this  route,  will  only  be  about 
twenty  hours. 

A.  H.  BEESE,  Gen'l  Superintendent, 

DETROIT,  MICH. 

(  280  ) 


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CLEVELAND,  OHIO. 


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GEO.   IKT.   WESImEY   &   SON, 


I*r<>i»ru'tors, 


Terms,  $3  per  Day. 


Cleveland,  Juli/^  1874. 


(281) 


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HOUTH-WESTEHN  HOTEL, 

MARQUETTE,  L.  S.,  MICHIGAN. 


F.    ImYON^    Proprietor. 


This  popular  IFoTEt  is  newly  littctl,  and  furnislitMl  with  all  tho  modern 
inipiovcnionts.  it  it;  heaiitifnlly  situated  on  the  Lakk  Shore,  having  500  feet 
frontage,  with  shade  trees  and  fountain,  allbrding  a  cool  and  delightful  retreat 
during  the  Summer  Months. 

COZZBNS'    HOTEL, 

MARQUETTE,  L.  S.,  MICHIOAX. 

ALFRED  COZZENS,  Proprietor. 

This  IIoTKii  stands  on  elevated  ground,  overlooking  the  Harbor  of  Mariiuette 
and  Lake  Superior,  being  situated  near  the  Railroad  Depot  and  Steamboat 
Landings. 


BEAT7M01TT    HOUSE, 

GREEN  BAY,  WISCONSIN, 

ALFRED  COZZENS,  Proprietor. 

This  IIoTiSL  is  conveniently  situated  near  the  Railroad  Depot  and  Steamboat 
Landing,  facing  the  Harbor  of  Green  Bay. 

(282) 


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LINDEN    HOUSE, 

L'ANSE,  L.  S.,  MICHIGAN. 


JAMES   ALLEN,   Proprietor. 


Tins    NEW    HOTEL    IS 


Situated  near  the  Railroad  Depot  and  Steamboat  Landing. 

l^)ATiN(i  and  Fishing  is  iifforckMl  on  Keweenaw  Bay,  and  in  tiic  trout  streams 

in  the  immediate  vieinity. 


DOUGLASS   HOUSE, 

HOUGHTON,  L.  S.,  MICHIGAN. 


THOS.  CULLYFORD,  Proprietor. 


This  Hotel  is  large,  convenient,  and  well  appointed  throughout,  and  .!very 
efibrt  will  be  made  to  please  and  accommodate  the  Traveling  Public. 

Pleasure  seekers  will  find  a  Croquet  Ground  adjoining  the  House.  Guests 
can  visit  the  Copper  Mines  in  the  vicinity,  or  take  a  Trip  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Ship  Canal,  passing  Portage  Lake. 

(283) 


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MACKINAC,  3IICMIGAN. 


Capt.  H.  VAN  ALLEN,  Proprietor. 


Tliis  fiivoritc  Hotki,  is  plcasiintly  situatcil,  f'acin.u:  tlio  Harbor,  whore  tliort'  is 
ii  Hiu'  liciicli,  itml  near  tin-  Stcaiiitioat  Lauding'.  In  tiiu  roar  of  tlic  iloiiso  an-, 
liigii  groiiiuls,  wIk'TL'  stands  old  Fort  Mdrkiixiv.  overloolviiij^  the  iKaiiliful  Straits 
of  Mackinac  and  several  ]iictui'es([ue  Islands. 

JOHN  JACOB  ASTOH  HOUSE, 

MACKINAC,   MICHIGAN. 


JAMES  F.  CABLE,  Proprietor. 


The  above  House  is  favorably  situated  ou  the  site,  and  is  a  part  of  the  Stores, 
Oflices,  Warehouse,  etc.,  of  the  Amcrkan  Fur  Company,  of  which  John  Jacob 
AsToii  was  the  founder.  The  House  is  spacious,  well  furnished,  convenient  to 
the  Steamboat  Landing,  and  will  be  kept  in  first-class  style.  Carriages,  Boats, 
etc.,  furnished  at  all  times.  Charges  moderate.  Bath  and  Billiard  Rooms  in 
connection.  Jg^"  The  old  Books  of  the  American  Fur  Company  can  be  seen 
at  this  House. 

(  284  ) 


Akohbo  Book. — Mackinuo. 


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LIST  OF  BOOKS  AND  MAPS 

COMPILED  AND  FOR  SALE  BY 

J.  DISTUENELL, 

No.  17  South  Sixth  Street,  Philadelphia,  (up  stairs.) 


MISSISSIPPj 


Xhnbracing  a  Description  of  Lifthea 
Superior,  Huron,  Michigan,  JUrie, 
and  Ontario;  Commerce  of  the 
Ziakes,  &c.;  forming  a  Complete  Guide 
for  the  Pleasure  Traveller  ;  witli  Map  and 
Illustrations.    Price,  $;i.OO,  bound  in  cloth. 

Ijahe  Superior  Guide,  giving  a  full  De- 
scription of  the  OuJECTS  of  Interest  and 
Places  of  Resort  on  this  groat  Inland  Sea 
— its  Cities,  A'illaireH,  Mineral  Locations,  4c. 
■\Vith  TowNSHii*  Map.     Price,  $1.00. 

Totvnghip  Map  of  the  Lake  Superior 
Jtegion  and  Upper  Mi.iHissippl  Val- 
ley;  showing  the-  Copper,  Iron,  Silver,  and 
Gold  Fields  on  thu  South  and  North  Shores 
of  liAKB  8UF£RI0R.  PRICE,  75  cunts,  pocket 
form. 


Across  the  Continent  and  Armlnd 
the  World — DlSTl'RNELL'S  Kailroad  a.nd 
Steamship  Guike;  giving  tho  Great  Li.ves 
of  Travel  Auolnd  the  \Vurli>;  also,  other 
Useful  Information  relating  to  Kailroaus, 
Steam.ship  Lines,  Telegraph  Lines,  Ac. 
With  Map  of  thu  World,  ou  Mercator's  Pro- 
jection.   Price,  5o  cents. 

United  States  Register,  or  Blue  Hook 

for  1874,  containing  the  Army  and  Navy 
List,  Juuiiiauy,  Ac.;  together  with  Iiitor- 
niation  relating  to  the  States  and  Tkhki- 
tokies,  with  the  Census  of  1870;  also,  re- 
lating to  the  Dominion  ok  Canada,  and 
other  portions  of  the  Continent  of  America. 
Price,  %^iXW,  in  cloth  binding. 

Offlcial  Census  of  the  United  States 

and  Territories,  by  Counties,  Ac,  for 
1800  and  1870,  anil  of  tho  Dominio.v  op 
Canada,  from  the  latest  enumeration  ;  also, 
the  Constitution  of  the  United  State.s, 
and  Amendments.   Price,  75  cents,  in  cloth. 

Influence  of  Climate  in  Iforth  and 
South  America:  showing  the  varied  in- 
fluences operating  m  the  Kquatorial,  Tropi- 
cal, Sub-Tropical, Tcsmperate, Cold  and  Frigid 
Zones,  extending  from  tho  Arctic  to  tho 
Antarctic  Circle ;  accompanied  by  an  Agri- 
cultural and  Isothermal  Map  of  North 
America.    Price,  $4.00,  cloth  binding. 

The  Post- Office  Directory  for  the 
United  States  and  Canada,  with  a 
Supplement  containing  the  New  Post-Offlceo 
of  tho  United  States,  corrected  to  Ai)ril  1st, 
1873.  Price,  $3.00,  in  cloth  biudiuu;  $2.25 
in  paper  covers. 


MAILED  FREE  OF  POSTAGE.' 
A,   i:jIJ3£3IlA.Li    X>IiSOOX7IV'3?    T€>    'X'£X£3    'X'IIAI>£3. 

PHiiiADELPUiA,  May,  1874. 

280 


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